Hi, I have a question, how can I blanket a room with infra red powerful enough to knock out digital cameras, so photos cant be taken.
Topic by Reever Jenkins | last reply
Hello, I'm having troubles with my modded Infra red flashlight. It worked when I first did it, for a couple minutes, then the next day only one LED(One out of six) worked. The one that works is from the same package as the others, but the only visible difference is that the LED itself is tinted a lighter blue(Not visible in picture). The source voltage is 1.5 Volts (C battery) and the forward voltage of the LED's is 1.3 volts to 1.7 volts. I'm pretty sure the circuit is parallel, and there is a 2 ohm resistor is the circuit, so they shouldn't be over or under powered. Some help on what could be wrong? P.S. I'm in the right section of the forum right? I believe I am, but the lack of questions like mine makes me think otherwise. P.P.S. This my own thing and I'm NOT asking help on another instructable.
Topic by Kevio bro | last reply
Its pretty much like a laser trip wire,this detector keeps detecting the rays from the led until an obstruction is made and thats when the signal must be triggered in order to sound a buzzer....pls specify the transistor which is to be used and if you are that kind pls suggest a schematic or atleast an instructable which could be helpful..
Question by Adarsh_tronix | last reply
I am wanting to make night vision goggles and plan on using infra red light to see. I plan on having el cheapo cellphon cameras or other camera mounted on the lense and having IR LEDs mounted on to to provide the light. I have a picture created in photoshop to show my idea. I did not include wiring, batteries, or switches in the picture.
Question by wizerd 745 | last reply
Hi I'm trying to build a infra red remote control & receiver to simply switch power on for launching model rockets & other pyrotechnic devices. So far here is the schematic I've come up with so far. I was wondering if it would work or if there was another component needed.. (sorry I am not good with electronics yet) Like an IC? All that would be needed is for the power to be switched on, no off would be needed. Please help me out and lets discuss it.
Topic by owenthelostboy | last reply
I recently ripped apart a Sky+ box that was out of use. Of course, it contained many parts. Quite a few tact switches, a few LEDs, a lot of capacitors, lots of resistors. One of these parts was a little metal cube with a black sphere protruding from the front of it. This is the IR receiver for the remote. I wish to incorporate it into another project. The first problem is I don't know how to use it. It has 3 "legs" - 3 metal contacts. The second problem is I can't easily experiment with it as I inadvertently destroyed my breadboard earlier. A new one will come as soon as I can manage, but until then..... My question is this - any ideas how it would be used? Thanks in advance, ~H4ZZ
Topic by __DELETED__ | last reply
I am working on a project "fire monitoring system". Using a controller I need to monitor fire. infra red must be used for smoke detection . The controller will process the data received from the sensors and will do wireless transmission to the server room. can anyone instruct me how to do so. Which sensor can be used and how to let the detector communicate with the controller?
Question by aroob
I am wondering if this diagram would work or not. i am needing it to run off of 3(ish)volts and it needs to be small so i can put it on my palm zire 31 as a ir extender running off of sd card slot power. would this work? or would the other IR detector work? please help, anyone! thanks in advance, z247 ps: i didn't boher with + and -, but i do know how to hook it up
Question by zack247 | last reply
So a couple days ago I got an Acer Aspire 5670 (aka 5672wlmi) on the front it has a infrared port, and i have the drivers for it installed. I am running windows XP home edition. I have a remote from a car Dvd player, and i was wondering, is there any way i can use it to interact with my laptop? (eg change the volume, skip a song, pause videos in media player) oes anyone know or have a laptop like this that have done this?
Question by zack247 | last reply
Or would it require a secondary switching mechanism? I am trying to build a light trigger circuit that is as simple as possible. I have an idea to use an ir led across from an ir phototransistor and have it trigger when the light is blocked. I need it to run 450v through. is there a phototransistor that can do this and if not what might be a better idea? Edit: This is to trigger a secondary acceleration coil in a coilgun. I am leery of using a relay for it because i don't know if that will cause too much of a delay.
Question by finfan7 | last reply
This would be for a laser tag gun, more than one infra red LED could greatly improve distance (so it is theorized) but if you think it wouldn't, give us a yell. How it normally works in the gun, is a high powered infrared LED with an already tight beam of about 20 degrees is projected onto a double convex lense about 2 to 5 cm in diameter. The beam is focused by moving the LED back and forwards with snipers having tight beams for the longest range and others having very wide beams to limit range and but improve accuracy at close range. Any help is much APPRECIATED. OH and someone recommended a cube beam splitter but i have no idea what they are so you may want to look them up... THANKS COMMUNITY
Question by DELETED_D4VOBRO | last reply
I'm planning on getting a 905nm IR laser that's pretty powerful, and I don't want to spend a lot on the goggles (from my searching, they're normally pretty close to $200). Does anyone know where to get some decent ones on the cheap?
Question by The Ideanator | last reply
Hey Instrucables community! I have a question. Of course, wanting to impress my friends, I want to make my electronics pop on and off with a push of a button (or two :-) So, how would I make a simple wireless on/off switch using IR without microcontrollers or IC's other than the 555 (because that's all i have :-). Isn't there a simple way to use a transistor as a switch to help me accomplish this? Thx, ~electricloser
Topic by HavocRC | last reply
I was wondering if anyone knew how to focus more than one LED (infra red) into one tightish (about 1m at 100ms) beam. This would actually be for a laser tag gun that i would like to make an instructable about. The game is based on these high powered infrared leds that are focused by a 2cm-5cm diameter double convex lens assembly. Snipers obviously need further distance and have a tight beam while others have a much wider beam. The focus can be adjusted by moving the led back or forwards. Having more than one LED may lead to dramatic leaps in range (so it is theorised). I have been told to use cube beam splitter but i don't even know what they are. Thanks community any help is seriously much appreciated Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou
Topic by DELETED_D4VOBRO
Hey guys, I am doing GCSE Electronics and I've decided that I would like to create a fully automated robot which will roam around on a patch of grass while avoiding any objects in its path (I would assume by using infra-red). I have searched the internet briefly but have not found anything useful. I would very much appreciate it if anyone could point me in the correct direction. Thank you very much, Lawrence
Topic by Fysh
As I'm searching I'm finding that most of you are extremely smat and very good at what you do. I have a dilemma involving R/C as well. I'm trying to build a 48 channel fireworks ignitor. As it stands it's almost complete but it's not wireless. Right now I have to plug a cord into an RCA jck on the board and the other end is connected to an electric match. I got all that. What I need help with is making this an optional "wireless" unit so I can stand back withmy guests at my party and ignite my fireworks from a few feet away. The problem is that the biggest R/F transmitter / receiver I found was only 15 cannels, and it was expensive enough that it wouldn't be cost effective to buy 3 of them plus and additional 3 or 4 channel to build it. I'm extremely limited on experience with eectronics and have no experience with IC's but I'm willing to learn if someone can pont me in the right direction. Thanks
Question by Music_Man608 | last reply
Hi!I want to use a TIP31 in my infra red detector circuit and cant find it any shop,could anyone suggest any other transisitor which fulfills the same purpose?
Question by Adarsh_tronix | last reply
I am making wireless controlled led suits for dance show so i want to know if such transistors exist
Question by jphilip1 | last reply
I need to control many (hundreds to thousands) small devices within a meter by computer so that i can program them and control them simultaneusly. cannot put a microcontroller in the devices, whats best bluetooth, radio waves, infra red? Any sujestions? I need to make the interface to the transmitter USB. I also need to recieve measurements from each device in real time and be able to differentiate for both the data and the devices since i will be controlling them and also recieving information from them. Any ideas?
Question by amelius | last reply
I have found out this schematic for an Infra Red Switch that uses the 4017 counter IC .I have followed this schematic properly ,but the problem is, when ever I turn on the power, the circuit automatically tuns on even if there are no infra red signals received by the IR receiver. To stop this false triggering I have tried to connect one end of a 100nf (marked104) disc capacitor the reset pin(pin15) and the other end to the ground but it does not seem to work.I am new to electronics and just understand the basics of it .I am unable to find out the cause for this .Please help.
Question by Utsav25 | last reply
Is there a device that that can be somehow activated by 'some' signal produces by today's cell phones (bluetooth, wifi, infra...) and then make a beep sound? Preferably it should be small, light, cheap, with low consumption of energy. It should work as a beeper to find a thing that it is attached to more quickly. Any ideas?
Question by xsustek | last reply
Automated pan/tilt surveillance system. Camera will be mounted under/inside a clear dome. Want to add Infra-Red spotlight. If light is mounted inside the dome with the camera, I'll have reflections from the inside surface of the dome causing a problem for the camera. Can't find a "non-reflective" spray coating but even if I do, it will affect the camera view (fuzzy picture) Anybody have any ideas ?
Question by retiredlawman | last reply
Hi there, I recently borrowed a ds converter. I'm having trouble with the IR signal strength. The remote won't work until i'm in the range of 2 to 3 feet from the DS converter box. I'm thinking, it must be weak IR signal or brightness. Can you please suggest me ways to fix it. Thanks in advance, Rosh
Question by rosh26 | last reply
I am trying to wire some infrared LEDs to an Arduino. Problem is, the signal from the infrared LEDs has to be able to change variably, like from a potentiometer. What I mean is, I am aware you can read an ouput from an IR LED, then use the Arduino to replicate this and consequently control things, but what if I wanted to ouput a signal that changed, like a potentiometer? Basically, I would like to be able to control some motors speed through PWM by a potentiometer, but wirelessly. I'm not sure if this is possible, and if it is, is there some information I could look into? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Question by Adum24 | last reply
Hello everyone, I'm trying to find a way to detect a IR source -a LED- from 100m. I only need to detect the source, I do not need to transmit data. When I turn the camera towards a IR source the software would put an icon on the source BUT without seeing the beam. Namely, the led should look like it is off but the icon on the image should indicate that it is a IR source when it is on. Thank you all!
Question by Matienzo | last reply
I designed a scrolling message board that is PIC based. I have also written separate code to decode an infrared signal. What is the best way to add the infra code to the message board software. Should it be interrupt the scrolling message every time a character is receiver by the IR receiver? The are 32 bits that need to be decoded each time a key is hit on the IR transmitter.
Question by bronx68
For a future project (blue barrel infra sub woofer with ducted fan) I'm already looking for parts. I see most amplifiers and amp chips (like the TDA7294) have a frequency response usually 20 - 20,000 Hz. But I'm interested in a range from 0- ca 40 Hz. As far as I understand, the low cutoff is to protect the driver (speaker). Would it be possible to circumvent the low cutoff, or would I have to build from scratch? (I'm thinking in a 70 - 150 W RMS range).
Question by BobS | last reply
I recently took apart a transmitter for a set of wireless headphones that gave up on me. I salvaged a few capacitors, 4 infra red LEDs, and a switch.The problem is, I don't know how to use the switch as it has 3 legs. The only switches I know of have 2 legs. It only has 2 positions (on and off). Could anyone let me know how to use it? Thanks, H4ZZ
Topic by __DELETED__ | last reply
Hii i am working on a circuit where i want to use photo diode as a switch.. that is when infra red radiation falls on the photo diode, it will allow the current to flow through the remaining circuit. but when i did the circuit, there was a small problem. even if ir led is not used, small current is passing through the remaining circuit. how can i stop this. how can i make it in such a way that no current will flow through the photo diode unless ir rays are allowed to fall on the photo diode... thanks in advance..
Question by allsparkunleashed | last reply
Hello. I have made a solar panel-powered bird box camera, and need a way to switch it off at night. The 5W/12v solar panel feeds to a rechargeable 12v battery. The 12v battery feeds to a voltage regulator, which then feeds on to a 9v infra-red camera. This set up works well, but the camera is running 24 hours a day. This is draining the battery unnecessarily at night. Does anyone know if there is something I could make or buy, that would stop power from going to the camera from 10pm to 6am ? Thanks for your help. Cheers!
Topic by artworkmonkey | last reply
I started a YouTube channel and I obviously upload videos but unfortunately I don't have a "cameraman" available 24x7. I googled my problem and came across a few things like SoloShot etc. But these things are way too expensive in India where average monthly income is below 300US$. I thought of using RFID and infrared but these ideas are not successful,do you have something easy and affordable in mind? Thank you.
Question by Amaey | last reply
For christmas I got a 4 channel GT-3386 helicopter. After battling it with my brothers hellicopter snapped the guards off the side fan and now it is unstabe. I could not find a spare part but after watching a review on my helicopter he called it a Z008 instead of GT-3386. So I searched online that number and found I could get spare parts that looked the same. Would Z008 parts fit on a GT-3386 helicpoter? or at least the side fan guards.
Question by David97
I picked this up on ebay for 5 dollars last month, apparently it retails for a couple of thousand, but im yet to think of a novel way to utilise this guy. Here are some specs from the pdf file i found on this lectern site.The Lectern Commander is able to communicate both direct Infra Red and RS232Combines the best features of a dedicated key control panel and a colour touchscreen in a single unit - Fits directly into unmodified industry-standard lectern - Modular design allows integration of microphone sockets, lectern light etc. for special applications - 32 key digital matrix touch overlay - Flexible â€“ can function as a stand-alone controller or in conjunction with any of the CommBox range of processors - Easy to program with standard Joey software, tools and library - Low power consumption allows operation on long low-voltage cablesKeys: 32, including 10 touchscreen keys Panel Type: Colour LCD, CCFL Backlight Panel Size: 4.0â€ diagonal Resolution: 320 x 240 pixels Brightness: 80cd/m2 (Typical) Contrast Ratio: 17:1 (Typical) Display Colour: 8 Colour Connectivity: IRBus (6.35mm TRS), IR (3.5mm phono), RS-232 (DB9). IR carrier frequency: 38kHz (industry standard) Power Supply: 12volts (Supplied by IR-Bus) Current demand: 100 â€“ 200mA (depends on brightness setting). Standby current: 5mA. Enclosure: Steel, black powder coated Dimensions: 540mm x 80mm x 70mm hmmm any ideas???
Question by daulef | last reply
Hi all, I've had the idea recently to attempt to be able to keep a real-time track of the location of something in a room. My first thoughts where to use an array of FM receivers and a transmitter to triangulate the location of the transmitter, or maybe even bluetooth, but the test room is about 5 metres square, so bluetooth might be unrealistic. As for the FM method, I think that could genuinely work, what do you think? An idea also floated is to triangulate using an array of cameras, maybe all triangulating the location of one infra-red LED light. What do the geniuses of Instructables think of the ideas here, do you think any are valid? King regards, ParadoxDetected
Topic by paradoxdetected | last reply
I really really really hate infrared remote controls. When I'm sitting comfortably, I always have trouble pointing it just right. Of course I realize this is probably an issue with my setup, but it wouldn't be an issue if the remote used Bluetooth. So I figured I'll write an Android remote control app that pairs with a little Bluetooth box that has an infrared led pointing right at the decoder. Thing is, the programming is no issue, but I haven't built anything more involved than an AV-switch box in the last decade. So I'm hoping someone can give me some guidance on using off-the-shelf components to pair/send/receive Bluetooth commands and decode them so I can flash the little infra-red LED. I'm perfectly happy to handle storage and all the other requirements on the phone.
Topic by KingCoder | last reply
Hey, trying to find a way to get a webcam to display on a LCD viewfinder without the computer in-between so I can mount it on an airsoft gun. I know that the data format for the webcams output isn't reconizable by the LCD screen, I was thinking there would be a way to use a digital camera by feeding it the data from the webcam instead of the camera allready in it but I have no idea how to do that since I've never worked with this kinda stuff. I'm using a webcam because it's easier to open it up and remove the infra-red filter, I plan on mounting IR LEDs to the cam so it has "night vision", them mount the camera on the top of the gun with the viewfinder on the side so you can see. I tried to do this with a cheap video camera since it allready had everything I wanted but the camera module was too small and I ended up braking it. Any ideas? advice? things I should look into? any help would be nice!
Topic by Stotko | last reply
So I'm working on project where I want LED strips to turn on and off depending on whether or not the IR LED and phototransistor circuit is open or closed This is what I've come up with. Can someone please check and tell me if this will work or not (sorry I can't seem to find a good simulator) It makes sense to me. The power supply will be one of those 12V LED power supplies. I will use http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM2596-Power-supply-module-adjustable-DC-DC-Step-down-1-5V-5V-12V-24V-/261512603010 this to step down the voltage to 5V for the IR LED. The LED strip will probably be this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5M-300-LED-Strip-Light-3528-5050-SMD-RGB-Ribbon-Tape-Roll-Waterproof-IP65-12V-UK-/350871703543 3 sections of 1metre long strips In the images below, I've shown what I want it to do EDIT: I changed the circuit a bit
Question by hanashoib | last reply
I am looking for a way to use the arduino, an IR emitter and an IR detector to use for proximity sensing. I have looked at a lot of tutorials but none of them seem to deal with detectors that only have two pins, most are for the sharp sensor. I am looking for a cheap alternative and would like to stay away from the Sharp sensor. I want to be able to pulse on and off the IR emitter and be able to read the reflective beam with the IR detector. I was able to do this with a reversed led connected to the IR detector, not sure why that worked but it did. I am trying to find the proper way to wire and read the IR level. When the IR emitter pulses, I want the detector to take a reading and then I am going to use that reading to determine how bright or dull a connected LED will be. Any help is greatly appreciated and I think with a little bit of guidance I will be able to do this =) ... wouldnt mind taking pictures and making an instructable out of this either ;)? Here are the emitters and detectors I am using: http://cgi.ebay.com/25x-5mm-Infra-Red-IR-LED-LAMP-940nm-Emitter-Receiver-/360316905034?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash;=item53e48fa64a#ht_1465wt_905
Question by afreeland | last reply
The Cats page (https://www.instructables.com/id/Cats/) incorrectly states that 'Everybody loves cats'. In fact, everybody does NOT love cats, particularly those whose resent their tendency to massacre the wildlife in our gardens. I'd like to improve the odds of survival for all the birds, amphibians and small mammals in my garden, but without causing physical harm to the cats. I've tried scent-based cat repellents without success, and I completely reject the idea of indiscriminate noise scarers. I can't police the garden 24/7, so my preferred solution is a water cannon capable of detecting a cat and soaking it. To keep things simple, I'd be thinking of using mains pressure to power the water jet, and batteries to power a motion sensor (infra-red). To be useful, the design would need to: - hit targets within a user-specified arc and at varying distances - allow the user to configure the sensitivity of the sensor, so that cat-sized heat sources are treated as targets, but smaller mammals are non-targets - avoid being triggered by foliage disturbed by the wind. For extra credit, the design could: - use solar power instead of batteries - focus the jet at the target, rather than spraying mist over a large area
Topic by pspinks | last reply
We have a problem with kids coming into our garden, vandalising our plants, breaking into our shed etc. we have decided that installing a cctv system in our home is a good idea as even if it doesn't stop them coming in, it will be solid evidence to take to their parents. problem is, we have regular power cuts and i would like the cctv to be recording 24/7/365 (especially in the shed because that is where our bikes get stored) i have two 12v 7ah SLA batteries that i am donating to the project, iknow that they need 13.8v and around 500ma to charge. i need 16 camera outputs, and then a couple of spare outputs for aux devices (router to keep it connected to the internet, mics, infra red lamps etc) the dvr its self wants 12v 5 amps input so i think for that i will make another psu just for that with maybe 2 or 3 12v 7ah sla batteries. i have baisic electronics knowledge, have access to pcb printing facilities and can use eagle. any help at all would be amazing, the main things i need to know is: how to get 13.8v from 240v ac, how to power all the cameras from 240v ac and have a smooth switchover from mains to battery. thanks in advance - luke
Question by ljarrald1 | last reply
The outline is that you can deposit graphite oxide (a cheap bulk material) onto a film of PET (the plastic used in Coke bottles), hit it with a commodity infra-red laser (such as the one in a $30 LightScribe DVD burner) and end up with a form of activated carbon material that can be used as the electrode in an electrolytic capacitor. Add some aluminium foil, separator membrane and electrolyte and you've got cheap, robust energy storage. The headline numbers are a few hundred milliFarads per cubic centimetre at a few volts, which works out to 1.36kWh per cubic metre of stacked capacitors. It's still about 50 times less energy per volume than lead acid batteries, but you could store as much energy as your house will need overnight in the size of a garden shed or a set of bunk beds. They charge/discharge in seconds and retain >95% capacity at 10,000 cycles so seem suitable for storage to even out intermittent energy generation from, for example, solar or wind power. I'm really thinking about cost here- unless I'm missing something fundamental it doesn't seem like producing these on a high volume roll-to-roll process would be excessively difficult, and the cycle life means the replacement time would be many years even in heavy usage. Could you get sufficient kWh per dollar to make these a viable storage mechanism for home-scale renewables? There's a more informative article here.
Topic by PKM | last reply
Here's an idea for a simple microcontroller project which occurred to me. Not something I'm going to build and not something I have an immediate use for, so I'm throwing it out here to see if anyone wants to take it up. Using something like an Ardweeny, it could be an entry in the Arduino contest. The idea is to made a motion triggered wildlife video camera, using a PIR sensor, a standard keychain camera, a microcontroller and a LiPo battery. That, minimal wiring and effort and you'd have a very small device you could leave by food, a crossing point or animal track and it would record video only when an animal passed by. Leave the camera in place for a couple of days, then take out the SD card and play back the .AVI files on your PC to see what's been happening. For construction, you'd need to disassemble the camera as per the linked video, and test how the 'record' button operates - It's probably just switched to 0V so could be driven with a logic output. You'd remove the camera battery and wire in a larger LiPo instead for endurance. This would also power the controller and sensor. The PIR sensor (with regulator bypassed, as per Sparkfun datasheet) would be an input to the microcontroller, and the programming would consist of monitoring the PIR output for pulses and triggering a 2 second pulse on the camera button to start recording. After a period of no PIR pulses, the camera 'switch' would be pulsed again to end recording. Put it all in a waterproof enclosure with access for the 'business end' of the camera element and you have a motion triggered wildlife camera. "Seemples", as the Meerkovian rat-creature says. Wire up a bank of infra-red diodes, increase the battery capacity and remove the IR filter on the camera and this may even work as a night-vision camera. Any takers?
Topic by AndyGadget | last reply
Anyone interested in a bit of work...I could also run it as a competition. Apologies in advance if what I am doing in not allowed on instructables, but I couldn't find a place to offer this work. Peoplehour does not specialise in tech gadgets! I am a one man band training business in the UK. I am trying to find someone to make this gadget to work with my Gravity Ball Game. Gravity Ball is a two hour team building activity. Gravity Ball requires teams to design and build a construction capable of transporting a ball from one zone to another; the ball must roll freely along the construction using gravity only. There will be a shared zone that will require team collaboration, cooperation and coordination. Everyone needs to contribute to the overall team objective whilst ensuring their own structure functions to a specific brief and works correctly. All teams will release their designated ball (tennis ball, golf ball, cricket ball, squash ball. Etc.) at the same time. Each team ball will roll freely along the team structure, into the shared area and the fall into a collection container. When all the balls are in the container (and a specific weight achieved) then the Weight sensitive relay switch will detonate a electronic confetti cannon. Alternatively, an infra red or sensor can count the number of balls that pass at a particular point and when the designated number is reached, the confetti cannon will detonate The detonation will give a wow factor to the team activity. Considerations: I need a gadget, Arduino, raspberry pi or beaglebone that can measure or count the number of ball and then detonate a confetti cannon or sound an alarm • Programmable weight or ball counter setting • Maximum weight 300g-400g or Maximum number of passing balls is 10 • Work with standard electronic confetti cannon from Confetti Masters, alarm or Siren (http://www.confettimaster.com/streamer.electric.confetti.cannons.html) or Showtec electric cannons (http://www.sblite.co.uk/598-80cm-multicolour-electric-confetti-cannon.html) Message me if you are interested! Kind regards Canute
Topic by GreenflashUK
No time and no pics for a proper Instructable, so I just put out some word of warning ;) Around here bad people take advantage of the fact that a lot of new houses have the garage right next to the house. With these you usually also get a door so when you park your car you don't have to get out of the garage again. All controlled by the press of a button on the remote... Some fancy guys got a device working similar to the IM-ME Open Sesame hack a few years back. But unlike the original author the new guys found ways to make money by providing working "universal garage door openers" on dubious websites. Problem with the new model is that it not only fakes a remote with dip switches but also the newer models with so called "rolling code", "intellicode", "changing code" and so on. The old remotes with dip switches should actually by phased out years ago by any owner who values his stuff... But the new models are still deemed secure and next to impossible to hack - well if you trust the advertisement... How does the code hacking work? The old dip switch models allow for a maximum of just over 4000 different codes and come in just 3 or 4 frequency bands. No real problem for anyone with basic electronic and coding skills to hack these - as shown with Open Sesame. The new models all use a so called rolling code, here the remote and opener are paired through 32 bit of ID code and an encrypted part that changes every time. Both remote and opener calculate the next code once a button was pressed or a code received. To overcome reception problems the base usually calculates the next 256 codes in advance - and that is the entry point for bad boys. The illegal device scrambles the frequency detected while storing the code received by the orignal remote. As the door did not open the owner will try to press the button again. Still scrambled to opener does nothing - until the device sends out the first recorded code! Now the owner can drive in and is happy. Of course he still needs to close the garage - again all is scrambled and the code stored as before. You see where this is going.... It is even possible to set the amount of required tries to capture, so in theory a bad guy could get the next 10 or codes in advance for use once the owner is gone out... Worst thing however is that these illegal devices not only open garage doors but also cars as a lot of them use similar systems for their remotes - up to the point of starting the car with it. Took me only 2 hours with Google translate to find a website outside the usual search results that offers these "gadgets", along with WiFi and cell phone jammers, credit card copy devices and more things I don't want know about... What can you do to protect yourself? First check what type of remote your system uses - if there are DIP Switches than replace the remote system or the entire device in favour for something more secure. If you already have a rolling code model that you are far better off but sadly no longer totally safe here. A lost remote should not only be replaced but the old one removed from the system as well - you never know if you just lost it or someone took your remote ;) Alternatives exist, especially if you are not afraid of doing some open heart surgery on the electronics of a garage door opener. You can add a WiFi module and use your mobile phone to open the garage - search Google if you like the idea ;) Another very neat way is using a second transmitter that keeps the relay for activating the opener from working. This can be anything from a BT module paired with your phone or cars BT system over a keycard to numberplate recognition cams. A good system also allows for a "holiday mode" or similar. Here you can set this mode with one remote until you deactivate it with the same remote the system will not react to anything. Great if you leave the house for more than a day or two... As a last resort you can always get a big and angry dog to sleep in your garage.... What if you are renting or a bit limited with the electronics and soldering skills? Not all is lost if you can accept a second remote for added safety. These days you can get plug in converters for your mains voltage outlets that work with a remote control. Unless they use Infra Red for this they are great to disable your opener. Simply plug it in where the power cord for the opener is and then plug the cord into it as well ;) Now you can fully shut off the opener with the press of a button and only if the power outlet is switched on the opener will work. If in doubt you can use a double outlet adapter an extension cord and a night light to indicate wether or not the opener has power. Ok, and what about the door lading from the garage into the house? Well, of course keep it locked and if you are home also keep it locked. At least this way you have some extra time in case someone tries to enter through your garage while you are sleeping ;)
Topic by Downunder35m