I was wondering if they make infrared activated switches, so its like wireless. if they do where can I get them, I've seen those 10x things but they don't really appeal to me.
Topic by Jordo | last reply
I have 2 infrared detectors (like the one in picture) with 3 pins and want to make a simple detector to turn power on and off. The reason is that I want to make a line following robot. I only need to be able to put enough power through it to power a relay on or a transistor. Please help I need to know what all of the pins do and how to use them. Or even better a curket dyagram that turns power on and off by infrared without using micro processors.
Question by David97 | last reply
I want to make a gadget which sends a few kb of data via infrared and also receives data via infrared with a timestamp. However, I am stuck as I have only used arduinos before and I have to design a circuitboard which I have never done before, with PIC microcontrollers (must be cheap ones). I need help a) choosing a microcontroller and b) assembling all the components into a circuitboard (ir transmitter, receiver, microusb port to transfer data to pc, battery). Gadget will eventually be portable so make everything light. Thanks Khalid
Topic by khabro | last reply
Hi I have a PU9716 Infrared Spectrophotometer and want to sell it. I am not sure what it's worth or when it was made, but I am told its in working condition. I got it for free from some people for whom it did not provide accurate enough readings. I got some info of the plate on it: serial number: 371261 part number:9423 297 16151 program number:4013 172 55513 Made in England Any help is appreciated.
Topic by dkedr | last reply
Well, I bought a used infrared sauna the other day for real cheap because it "just stopped working all at once". Figuring its just a fuse or something, I took it. Well now I cant figure it out for the life of me.What seems to be the problem is that no power is getting to the primary transformer. That would be on the second small circuit board to the right. It is getting to the secondary transformer fine. Heres a pic of whats goin on. Those things on the sides are fuse holders, (no not burnt out).
Question by LiquidLightning | last reply
I am trying to wire some infrared LEDs to an Arduino. Problem is, the signal from the infrared LEDs has to be able to change variably, like from a potentiometer. What I mean is, I am aware you can read an ouput from an IR LED, then use the Arduino to replicate this and consequently control things, but what if I wanted to ouput a signal that changed, like a potentiometer? Basically, I would like to be able to control some motors speed through PWM by a potentiometer, but wirelessly. I'm not sure if this is possible, and if it is, is there some information I could look into? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Question by Adum24 | last reply
How can i build an infrared tripwire for my arduino bored i have a IR photo transistor and a IR led, What i want to do with this is control a relay which turns my light on when i enter the room and off when i exit. Thanks
Question by Daniel Deacon | last reply
Could someone please tell or show me a fairly inexpensive way to throw an infrared beam across my office and once it's tripped by an intruder an outside alarm or siren (I mean the loud ones-like you can hear several blocks away)would go off. I'm so impressed by the quality of minds on this website. I know someone can probably help. Bless You All.Thank You So Far!
Topic by ropor | last reply
I have this infrared transceiver module tfdu411 : data-sheet here the recommended circuit is here well, this circuit is for motherboard with built-in IRDA port , and sure mine does not have one so , can i built this connect this circuit and connect it directly to the serial 9 pins port ? if not , is there any way to connect this module the the PC and build an infrared transceiver ? thank in advance
Question by lu2a
I am on a build to make a led display for my room , i want to toggle it on/off using a infrared remote & that is the part i have no idea how to do ( I am not good at IR circuit's ), Googled it but was unable to understand them. I would be greatly thankful if someone could help me on how to make it , & the part's that would be required ( or simply link to any good instructable ) Have a nice day guy's Regards Bobblehead Einstein
Question by Bobblehead Einstein | last reply
I am wondering if this diagram would work or not. i am needing it to run off of 3(ish)volts and it needs to be small so i can put it on my palm zire 31 as a ir extender running off of sd card slot power. would this work? or would the other IR detector work? please help, anyone! thanks in advance, z247 ps: i didn't boher with + and -, but i do know how to hook it up
Question by zack247 | last reply
I have a dell latitude d410, it has a infrared port, i want to know is there is a freeware program that lets me take a universal remote and use it on my computer as a media remote or a dvd remote on my computer... i have a ''on Intel(R) 82801FBM LPC Interface Controller - 264"infrared controller...my operating system is window xp pro
Question by sora | last reply
I want to buld a ir detector. Would this curket work?
Question by David97 | last reply
Hi folks. I have a 6000 Series PIR originally manufactured by GE security. The sensor is wired to a OMRON MK2P-S 8 pin relay. The relay controls an audio alarm. Everything worked fine for a while but now it no longer triggers the relay, despite the LED indicating it should. I can physically disconnect the COM connection and it will force the relay to trip and perform the desired alarm message. The voltage to the PIR is 13.5v (specifications indicate 10v-16v is the acceptable range). I have set the jumper for 2 and 3 pulse with no difference in behavior. Any troubleshooting ideas? Thanks in advance.
Question by mhammer99 | last reply
I want to make infrared remote control for dc motor using a tv remote. Please help me!!!!
Question by RUDR | last reply
Hey all science-type people, I've seen invisible ink pens and things for sale that contain ink that show up in infrared, instead of ultraviolet light. That's really appealing to me for a number of project ideas because digital cameras pick up IR exteremely well (especially with their filter removed). The problem is I think I'm going to want a lot of it, and those dumb little pens are crazily expensive. So any of you chemistry buffs out there have a secret formula I could make? I'd prefer something invisible in regular light, but hey, whatever you've got. :) Thanks in advance for your help, -Kurt
Topic by PS118 | last reply
Hi. Firstly, I'm a software man, never done an electronics project but I own a multimeter and can use a soldering iron. So here's the problem: for my son's wedding in May (that's him in the pic), he's rented an ancient barn with a beautiful timber roof going up to 5 metres. They want to decorate it with coloured paper lanterns, hanging on invisible fishing line. I suggested lighting each lantern with cheap battery operated 10 LED strings. Problem is how to turn them on/off from ground level, say 4 metres away. So I'm thinking infrared triggered switches. There's going to be about 30 lanterns so the receivers must be cheap on components. Here's a possible example of the LED's http://mobile.festive-lights.com/battery-lights/10-warm-white-led-indoor-battery-fairy-lights-clear-cable.html Voltage can be 3 or 4.5v DC depending if 2 or 3 battery model is chosen. I don't know the current of the LED strings, I'm thinking I'll need to insert the receiver switch inbetween the battery pack and the LED load. Hopefully the receiver won't drain the batteries too much in "standby" as we might need to rig the lanterns 4-5 days before the wedding and it's not practical to get up to the lights again. So, long explanation... I've seen a couple of projects on this site which look nearly right but my knowledge isn't enough to make adjustments. Can anyone give me a solution from which I can build a prototype? I'm hoping I can use an old TV remote as the transmitter. Thanks in advance for your help
Topic by juskat | last reply
Question by XOIIO | last reply
Hi, I have an old JVC GR-AX280 camcorder that I would like to turn into night vision.I know it has a filter that makes it so you can't see infrared light.How do I replace the filter with something so you can see infrared light from a infrared LED light board? I have another camcorder and I removed the filter and lost it.The camera doesn't have very good picture now,almost nothing.Looks like I need to have something to take the filters place to get better picture again. Any ideas? Cheers
Question by luther303 | last reply
I have a robotics project where I need to guide a few robots to specific circles that are at a random distances. On the day it is due I will be given the distance to the middle of the circle and can adjust what ever guidance system I have. There is a budget cap on the project so i would like to use just one or two controlling things for every robot. Now what I was thinking was to set up some sort of IR beacon in the starting square. If I placed two beacons, one at each corner or the square (each circle is a certain distance from each side of the square) I could have an arduino to remotely control them. I hope that makes sense so if you have any ideas or questions that would welcome both. Thanks in advance, Zootsuitman
Question by zootsuitman | last reply
Question by Pavlex4 | last reply
For years i have been looking for a way to control my home appliances without the need for an X10 or home automation kit which is unjustly expensive and doesnt do everything i want it to do. I have voice recognition on my computer and ultimately id like to use a Bluetooth headset or handheld mic to control everything in my room. The way i see this working is to create an infrared transmitter and reciever for my computer, record the IR signals onto my pc and play them back to whatever device i see fit (tv, dvd, lights, etc) using the voice commands to run macros that send the IR signals. Also with this (and here comes the bit pertaining to the question) i would require a simple On/off IR switch, which i could wire into lights, power sockets, anything which doesnt have infrared to control its function already. Anybody got any ideas? On this note, i have programmed my computer to be able to do any command with voice, so that is sorted, and have also found some software that will record and play back the IR signal (but not the hardware) The IR switch i found schematics to online didnt work, and included a few IR led's, a 9v battery, and a rs232 cable (now all buggered)
Question by MarkFW | last reply
I am trying to build a pyroelectric infrared sensor using a KC778B from scratch. I have gotten my system to work using PIR modules, but because I am using 100 of them in my project, it ends up costing almost $900 more to do than building it from scratch (even including paying a machine to assemble the extra components). However, the prototype I built doesn't work. It worked when I did it using a PIR module, so the LED charging circuit is fine -- but the sensor block is not. I went through the datasheet carefully and didn't see anything particularly odd, and scoping the pins also showed no noise to speak of. I found an example online of how to use the chip, and their system was very similar to mine, except with extra features that I had eliminated. Basically, the behavior is that it does not output a voltage indicating detected motion for a random appearing length of time, and then outputs only detection events. The attached LED light is off for most of the time, and then turns on, never to turn off again. Perhaps the sensitivity is too low, perhaps the controller and PIR sensor element aren't compatible, I just have no idea. The PIR sensor is the PIR_D203S. It says it requires 3-15V to run and the drain reference on the PIR controller chip is only 2.5V, so I thought that could be the problem. However, connecting D directly to 5VDC did not fix anything. I just ordered two PIR sensors that say they go to 2VDC, but I'm not optimistic that this is the problem. I also did not include the 1k resistor on the output to the LED control transistor; could that cause the system to stick on or off? I did also not bypass the power supply, but I'm seeing it freeze, not flicker, so again I am doubtful. I really cannot think of any other places where this could fail -- perhaps the offset voltage on the PIR sensor, maybe the frequency of the turn off circuit -- but everywhere I look the datasheets imply that my circuit should be fine as is. I'm kind of doubtful that instructables can help, but I have no where else to turn. These things are apparently too cheap for anyone to bother building them themselves, and there are only even one or two controller chips in existence.
Question by neltnerb | last reply
Question by tejasai95 | last reply
I want to build a hardwired IR network in the school building to each of the tvs. What all components would be needed and how to assemble these components?
Question | last reply
I want to View Electrical Wiring and motors for hot spots and lose connections. I have a Sony Handycam with the night vision that I can use. It is going to be used in a Vocational High School for Teaching Students electricity
Question by electricproff | last reply
Hi all, So I've been searching / reading up on IR heaters and I can easily find IR bulbs /heaters, at 30W+ but the bulb's are pretty big (in regards to what I want). Is there not any smaller-scale /electronic componets for producing IR heat? I know there are IR LEDs but is that the same thing? I'm a bit lost and I swear I came across something before that had an array of small scale IR heating componets, but quite frankly I dont really know what I'm searching for, in regards to a correct name etc... Thanks in advance :)
Topic by lukus001 | last reply
Hi Guys & Girls Obviously, i am new to this and my electronics knowledge is very limited. Let me first explain what my desired outcome is and then proceed with the questions i have. In the schematic below i connected two circuits that i found. One is a infrared receiver and the other a flip flop. With that, the following needs to happen : when the user presses a button on a IR transmitter aimed at the receiver circuit in the schematic it is sent through pin 3 to the flip flop circuit which in turn puts the relay in a (permanent) ON state. When the user presses the same button again, the process is repeated and puts the relay in a (permanent) OFF state. So bottom line a 1 button/channel IR press on press off switch to switch my 12v circuit on/off. Here are my questions: 1. Is the receiver circuit correct as i have drawn it i.e. will it work? 2. Is the flip flop circuit correct as i have drawn it i.e. will it work? 3. Where i have the red circle : 1. Is the connection between the receiver and flip flop circuit there correct? 2. Do i need another resistor there? 4. Do i need a “floating resistor” as a R5 around the relay and how does the practical application of this look (on all the diagrams i look at it’s drawn around the relay going from an input to an output on the same wire......does that mean that on the pcb it will run parallel between the “pos+ and neg-“ going into the relay?) 5. Is my relay connection correct within the blue circle? 6. All and all, put together will my circuit work as expected? I know there are probably a whole bunch of ways to achieve the result i am looking for and being a noob, this might be the most impractical(i don’t know), but the reason i went this route is because i have these components available to me and if at all possible, i would not want to go and buy other components. Thanks in advance for any help provided. I find it much easier to learn by building the circuits and then seeing with a multi meter etc. what the effects of each component is than reading through all these books and trying to cram everything into this thick skull of mine Schematic Component Values : R1 = 220k ; R2 = 100k ; R3 = 10k ; R4 = 10k ; R5 = ? C1 = 1uf ; C2 = 0.01uf ; C3 = 10u Rx1 = Any tsop/similar U1 & U2 = 555 timers
Question by GhengisKhan1981 | last reply
If you are looking for an inexpensive kit to learn some soldering and have some fun with the project this kit is for you. All of the parts are through hole and the kit is cheap at under 15 bucks! The IR Jammer is a fun project that provides a bit of safe, non-destructive fun. The Infrared Remote Control Jammer allows you to render all IR remote controls inoperative! The microcontroller in this design allows for all 6 of the main IR frequencies to be targeted making this unit universal. It works by corrupting the data that is being sent by your normal remote controls. Instructables Page. Go to Project Page. Purchase the project in the online store. Go to the dedicated kit page.
Topic by abbtech
Hi, Recently my company remodeled our EE lab and was going to throw out a huge amount of electronic components, since they didn't care I took all of them instead. Next spring I am likely going to teach a small class on basic soldering. I can solder well enough to teach others, but I can't design circuits at all. I'm looking for some kind of project that could use some of the parts. The coolest parts are infrared LEDs and Phototransisters. I have thousands of these Fairchild QSC113 and QEC122 http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/QS/QSC112.pdf http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/QE/QEC123.pdf I also have around 30 small piezio sounders/buzzers no part number A couple hundred red and green short leg LED (Can't do a cube matrix as the legs are short for a angled board level mount) Lots of small switches I know I have 3904 transistors as well as many other flavors but I don't have the numbers in front of me I also should have any small caps, resistors, diodes, and zener diodes I know I also had several 555 timers and lots of resonators and crystals in various speeds Circuit goals Through hole only No Surface mount Able to be made in 1-2 hours by new solderers Class will be limited likely to less then 10 attendees depending on # of soldering irons I can find Circuit has to do something with an effect like sound or light so they feel like they created something I would like any extra costs to be under $40 for the whole class as I will likely have to pay for it Each circuit needs to be able to be taken home Ages will be from about 14 to 75+ I do not have have most of my extra parts sorted but I do know a general "type" of the parts so feel free to use a part and I'll see if i have something similar. If I like your circuit I'd be glad to send you 250 of each of the infrared LED/phototransiters The class will be taught at Hoosier Recreation Workshop -Steve
Topic by nevets_mcd | last reply
I am planning on build ing IR Heater. would a 6 millimeter IR emmiter with 960 millimeter wavelength work to produce heat? If your not aware with IR heaters then here is a short explanation: A normal heater such as a gas heater heats up the surrounding air, but a IR heater uses infrared waves to heat up surfaces of objects. So instead of heating surrounding air the IR waves heat up surfaces of objects. Also IR waves penetrate the epidermise (top layer of skin). Here is a diagram of what the circuit looks like. The question is would this circuit work? Also are 6millimeter IR emmiter with 960 millimeter wavelength work?
Question by planetroverrobo | last reply
I was looking at the brand name model Eden Pure Infrared heater
Question by bullit224 | last reply
If infrade light is the only kind that carries heat, then how can other wavelenghts burn stuff?
Question by cinamun | last reply
Hi, I have a line laser which has following specs!!! http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/780nm-60mw-5V-IR-Infrared-Laser-Line-Module-120-degree/640033_1594226134.html 5V DC or 3.3V preferred!! Working current must be < 200mA How can power this laser using USB cable or USB port I know USB has 5V DC (max current is 500mA) I want to know how to convert it so that i can power the laser??!!! Thansk in advance for help!!
Topic by victorx10 | last reply
I am looking to build a sort if motion detector that works with 2 IR emitters, 2 IR receivers and a motor, the emitters and receivers would be in 2 seperate circuits and lined up with eachother (the emitters constantly on) and when the link to the receivers was severed (for example by someone standing between the emitter and receiver) the motor would rotate, if the left emitter-receiver combo was disrupted it would apply positive voltage to the motor and if the right emitter-receiver combo was dusrupted it would apply negative voltage, is this even remotely possible? Firezone
Topic by firezone | last reply
I have been wanting to build a USB Infrared Receiver because I do not have a serial port, and I do not want to use a USB to serial. What do you all think of this idea? www.ocinside.de/go_e.html
Question by colton.asu | last reply
I really really really hate infrared remote controls. When I'm sitting comfortably, I always have trouble pointing it just right. Of course I realize this is probably an issue with my setup, but it wouldn't be an issue if the remote used Bluetooth. So I figured I'll write an Android remote control app that pairs with a little Bluetooth box that has an infrared led pointing right at the decoder. Thing is, the programming is no issue, but I haven't built anything more involved than an AV-switch box in the last decade. So I'm hoping someone can give me some guidance on using off-the-shelf components to pair/send/receive Bluetooth commands and decode them so I can flash the little infra-red LED. I'm perfectly happy to handle storage and all the other requirements on the phone.
Topic by KingCoder | last reply
Hello,I am building a multi-touch surface using the FTIR method and after the surface is powered for about 10 minutes there is a heated smell in the room, I have noticed that the resistors are very warm and that a couple have started to brown or burn. I really need this table to be able to be safely powered at least 18 hours a day.Here are my specs:LED's:I am using 88 Infrared LED's (T 1 3/4 INFRARED LED, http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/340250/LEDs/Infrared/1.html )--8 LED's per series--forward voltage of 1.5v --forward current of 100mAResistors:I am using 2, 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistors parallel (so 5 ohms) with each of the 11 series'Power Supply:The power supply output's 12 volts DC and 1.2 ampsWhen I calculate using http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz it says I only need 1ohm 1/4 watt resistors, I haven't tried this yet but it doesn't seem to me that this would rectify the situation. My guess was that I need 1 watt resistors, but the calculator didn't seem to agree.Any thoughts as to what my problem is? is it safe to go with 1 ohm 1/4 watt resistors? or do I need 1 watt resistors? Any help would be very appreciated, thank you!
Topic by hapticdata | last reply
I'm trying to come up with a small, cheap, simple circuit that will detect a human. I plan to use a grid of luxeon rebel OLEDs and whatever detector I come up with embedded in my ceiling to light up only when you are under them. I've looked into passive infrared, but it's fairly expensive for the components I could find. Any leads for circuits, ideas, or parts? I'd use parts from cheap security lights, but they tend to be around $10 each and I would probably need around12-18 ... kinda painful on the pocketbook. Thanks in advance for any help!
Topic by homba | last reply