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Huge problem involving invincible materials

Ok I'm making a few projects and the cutoff for one of them (the bottom end of a bullet shell casing) is a perfect piece in the puzzle for another, i need a hole drill through it, so I got the drill of doom out and the apparent uber go through anything drill bits and the metal ones, I went to drill in to the bottom of this using the firing pin impression as a starter guide (it was dead centre) And at first I thought this was all going smoothly, and as I spun the drill up to full speed there was plenty of metal shavings coming out, I stopped for a look because a bit of distance had went by and there was a tiny dent in the subject, the drill bit however was noticeably shorter than before... the same bits as the ones we use for drilling out flint tubes in antique lighters, they're tough (it was bigger bit in this case but same type) so I tried the bog standard metal work bit it made no difference to the hole and was shredded away similarly. First of all what the hell is that striker made of and second of all what the hell drill bit can get through it, I knew they were tough, I couldn't be assed cutting one with just a hacksaw blade so i did it with the drill as a lathe...

Topic by killerjackalope    |  last reply


For sale: warship. SOLD!

For sale - one light aircraft carrier. Mileage - high, but reasonable for age. This classic vessel is a rarity, and an ideal opportunity for the dedicated hot-rodder to really express his skills. SOLD!

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


Guitar - How can I quickly strengthen/improve left hand tapping? Answered

Hi guys, heres a question that i've been dying to ask for a while. how can i strengthen my left hand guitar tapping... I've been at guitar for 2 years now, and I'm trying to learn Invincible by Muse. Listen here the solo is around 4:38  I can play the whole song, and I know the notes to play for the solo, but my left hand fingers are physically not strong enough to play the trill :L If you could give some advice as to how to strengthen my fingers quickest, that would be greatly appreciated. Heres the tab by the way: http://www.songsterr.com/a/wa/song?id=11431

Question by barrax    |  last reply


Tube Material

I started thinking about how the tube material could be improved. Although I love the ghetto look of pringles wrapped in the invincible duct tape, improvements can be made. You could use PVC or ABS for the tube, it wouldnt need pressure rating because Im sure this thing wouldnt have enough power to explode the pringles/tape team. This is rather cheap and you could just glue on an endcap. Then a BBQ ignitor can be threaded in, a ring to define the chamber and barrel and fuel sprayed in! However getting the perfect cost/durability/strength ratio is hard.

Topic by SNDM  


The indestructable bike lock! ...Idea

The indestructable bike lock: the forum topic that was posted undeniably just to annoy the future patenters!So I had this weird idea for a product come out of nowhere. Y'know how aluminum is supposed to make cutting wheels on an angle grinder gum up, stick, and shatter - when trying to cut it, that is? I was wondering, what if a company engineered a special type of aluminum alloy or a similar material that would do just that: gum up abrasive cutting wheels and make them stick/bind and shatter. Then like with layers of plywood, it would be sandwiched together with hardened steel, in the shape of a U-lock bike lock, making it: Impossible to cut through with a hacksaw, reciprocating saw, TCT bladed portaband , because it's hardened and would wreck the teeth. Impossible to cut through with an angle grinder or rotary tool with an abrasive wheel because the aluminum would gum it up. Impossible to cut through it with bolt cutters - obviously... Impossible to freeze it with freezing gas? I don't know. I heard that's what thieves do. Maybe that aluminum alloy would be a super-insulator and wouldn't allow the hardened steel layer to freeze and become more brittle?I think it might just be invincible until the portable cordless battery powered waterjet is invented!Thoughts?

Topic by Yonatan24    |  last reply


can i set up a capacitor bank to start up my car if the battery is dead?

a huge advantage to capacitors is low leakage (for some types) and i want to know, first of all, how much energy a starter motor needs to start the engine? one of my constraints is money (>$200) so if it works, but i can't afford the capacitors, then oh well. also, i want to know if i can make a simple circuit that would sense if the battery is dead and then switch to using the capacitors and also be able to recharge the capacitors. im also worried about the amount of leakage of capacitors with such high capacity (which might defeat the purpose of this idea), and where i could actually put the rig that would be safe from heat, and still have access to the starter motor. if this is feasable, i just might make my first instructable out of it: the invincible starting car

Question by the judge    |  last reply


I've got aggressive monster blue black wasps that won't die with wasp killer spray!!!! Help me please? Answered

I live in Massachusetts. I have an inground pool and the nest is under the edging of the pool. They're HUGE like 2 inches long and they're black with a blueish hue and frequently carry grasshoppers into the nest. I'm not sure but from researching they might be digger wasps That's what wikipedia says but when I google image search them it's not the same looking wasp. I've tried killing them with wasp/hornet spray but the dam things are invincible and the spray doesn't even phase them! Last year I killed a handful of them by stalking and smacking with my flip flop which isn't easy because they're fast and very aggressive. You can't get within 10 feet of the nest and they after you. I have dogs, curious dogs. And kids. Kids with friends that like to come swim but everyone's afraid to go out there because of these things. What's the right chemical to kill them with I've tried this wasp killer

Question by jtp139    |  last reply


Any substitute for Smooth-Cast 300? Answered

We have our own homegrown substitute for Oomoo thanks to the local boy genius Mikey77 But is there any substitute for it's companion product, the very expensive ($100/gallon), two part liquid plastic stuff called "Smooth-Cast 300"? Does anyone know of a way to mix an inexpensive something up and pour it into a mold and have it harden up into a strong thing?  It doesn't have to be as invincible as Smooth-cast, but .. is plaster the only option? Update:  What am I casting?  I found a really great ornamental tile at Habitat for Humanity and want to make copies of it Update:   I'm wondering now, what if I used something from the wall/flooring department, like Mastic?  Its about $34 for two or three gallons.  It fills gaps and hardens to such a degree that it can't be chiselled easily.  I may try this. Update:  Tried mastic, it works but takes far too long to dry, on the order of three days or longer...  Maybe if I mixed in some corn starch (ala oogoo?) Thank you -foo

Question by foobear    |  last reply


Welcome To The Instructables Group, 'Fun with Fire'

Hello, and welcome to the 'Fun with Fire' instructables group, this group focuses on...fire. A warning to all the stupid idiots out there that think they are invincible, fire is dangerous and should not be taken lightly, by joining this group you assume all responsibility for your actions. Q&A, Q) What can/cant I post? A) Anything that has to do with fire is allowed, that means all those people that think its funny to spam and post things that have nothing to do with fire aren't allowed. Q) what kind of projects do you mean? A) Anything that has to do with fire, such as, fireworks, fire breathing,fire making, etc., etc. Q) Why is it called, Fun with Fire? A) It is called Fun with Fire because I believe this should be a fun group, not an uptight, tell no secrets group. Q) Is there such thing as 'To Dangerous'? A) No there is not, you can post any thing from how to make sparks, to how to make napalm, provided that you adhere to the Instructables Terms Of Service and add a safety warning/disclaimer. So without further adieu, Have fun, Don't burn yourself, and Be safe. P.S., If you made it this far thanks for sticking with it and reading this extreamely long-winded post, In The House Of Ill Repute

Topic by In The House Of Ill Repute    |  last reply


Setting up two forges...

Basically I have two ideas, one of which I'm pretty ready to make now and another which will take a little longer to make, one is a tiny forge, like desktop sized, for working at home and the other is a much larger forge for big metalwork projects, thankfully the large one will actually require less parts scavenging as I have plenty of acces to scrap material and there's a brickyard over the wall from us which will do me the necessary materials very cheap, mainly because I did a little forklift driving for them for larger heavyweight loads over three tonnes. That's all well and good a big one I can get my head round easily enough, But. How would I go about making a tiny forge and I mean miniscule, it's main purpose is for heating to cast for my specialist parts I prefer making and the other is for low material single cast jewellry my mum makes (she used to own a jewewllry business and still makes the odd bespoke items. But my main question is how I can build a reliable yet compact forge and furnace, from what I have sitting around I'm sure I can come up with a decent fuel source, ranging from butane torches and stoves, both of which can do propane and I could go to natural gas (we have a special plug out the back for gas barbeques the house had it when we came...) but my other questions are a bit more odd, first of all what would make a great crucible, I need something that'll be fairly invincible to the hardships caused by life, as the other liely user of the forge and furnace is very forgetful and sometimes accident prone. Next up is the housing, would it be feasible to use a single block of thermocrete cast to make the main furnace housing, as in everything is but the fuel and air source holes and the crucible hole would be one block, as it stands that seems like the best way to make it simple and effective, plus it would be pretty airtight where needed. Next question is the fuel and temperatures, I know that butane at full combustion get 1300C and 1000C is a practicable operating temp. for a butane item but what about propane or even natural gas, since it would be very cheap and clean burning... I'm a bit of a noob towards this end of the scale, I can make stuff hot and I can do alot with these things but actual forge and furnace making is a little beyond me on this scale, however I can think of several advantages to my baby furnace, including the practical movement of it, as it could be self contained very easily. The pic was just one of the last pictures that's remotely intersting I uploaded, however it raises it's own points as the jet engine basically welded all it's components forward of the flame together.

Topic by killerjackalope    |  last reply


RGB LED Life Bar, 10 Sections, Individual LED Control, Arduino

Okay, I want to make a "Life Bar" using an arduino controller, 10 RGB leds, and a clear plastic box with ten sections. I'm going to mount this on a wall in my room. Each section will be diffused or frosted and will be 4 x 4 x 4. One RGB LED will in the "back" of the section, with the wiring, coming out of the back of each section. The controller will be to the left side of the total ten sections, with the USB port having easy access. I think I'm going to have one switch to control the modes of the LED and cycle through each mode, which would reset after the lowest "health" of the bar is reached; RED BLINKING >> Press Switch >> FULL HEALTH. I'd like to control each LED individually so I can create a diminishing "Life Bar." Like this: (Colors of the LEDS) OFF = No Color, LED not LIT BLU = Blue AQU = Aqua GRN = Green YEL = Yellow RED = Red REDB = RED Blinking So: Phase One (Full Health. HAHAHAHA I'M INVINCIBLE.) |BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU| Phase Two (I tripped whilst fighting.) |OFF|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU|BLU| Phase Three (I'm hurt a little, but I'll be okay.) |OFF|OFF|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU| Phase Four (I should probably start looking to see if there are any potions around.) |OFF|OFF|OFF|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU|AQU| Phase Five (Green? Green is good.. Right?) |OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|GRN|GRN|GRN|GRN|GRN|GRN| Phase Six (It's okay I've fought this boss before at much less health.) |OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|GRN|GRN|GRN|GRN|GRN| Phase Seven (This boss... This boss can breathe fire now..?) |OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|YEL|YEL|YEL|YEL| Phase Eight ('Tis but a Scratch!) |OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|YEL|YEL|YEL| Phase Nine (HEALS HEALS HEALS HEALS PLEASE PLEASE ANYONE.) |OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|RED|RED| Phase Ten (Okay, I have almost no health, my party is dead, and my strongest attack: Let's do this.) |OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|OFF|REDB| Basically, every press of the switch would idealy cause the lifebar to cycle through these phases, after the lowest health, it would cycle back to the beginning, full health status. The actual box will be DC powered, because I want it to be as seamless as possible with no wires showing. The answers that I am looking for : What would be the best controller for this application? Any helpful hints on where I could look for something relatively similar for programming this? I know that I am asking a lot, I am pretty much new to arduino programming and every howto or tutorial I've found talks of controlling all the LEDS together, I'm not sure if that would apply here since I have so many "phases" if you can shed any light on how to approach this, I would be eternally grateful and would totally fight dragons with you any time. Thanks!

Question by noctisEQ    |  last reply