Has anyone ever conected a wii nunchuck to a electric wheelchair as a secondary controller and speed control if so does anyone have the instructions on how to achieve this please Allan
Topic by Bigall51 | last reply
I recently bought an old Invacare wheelchair to use the motors and controller to integrate with a computer. However, the "MKIV INT" (i'm assuming that's the manufacturer) motor-controller is an all-in-one with the joystick in it. I removed the joystick, hoping I could connect to a DAC and my computer via parallel port, but the joystick has a small circuit inside of it. I'm assuming the circuit gets 5V from the controller and sends pulses of the analog joystick position. I was thinking about de-soldering the 4 wires from the joystick (2 wires for x-position and 2-wires for y-position) and first try to replace the joystick with an old PC-joystick--just to see if the controller detects different resistances of a different joystick, etc...
Topic by ferris_beuller | last reply
I would like to find a electric wheelchair/electric wheelchair motors to make a RC snow plow for one of my disabled friends. any ideas of where i could get one dirt cheap \ free round the northern MD area. any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Question by bigbodysmallbrain | last reply
Please can I use car engine starter motor (12 volts) to build an electric wheelchair? If so, how do I connect it to batteries?
Question by dankyi | last reply
Hello, Newbie here! I was hoping to convert my manual wheelchair into an electric powered one.. What would be the best way to go about this? Could I just install hub motor on the real wheels? Or would a gear motor be better? I was planning to control it using arduino as I would eventually want to make it gaze-controlled (working on the eye tracking code at the moment..if anyone has any advice for that to that would be great!) It is a really important project following an ALS diagnosis and it would mean everything if I could make this work somehow..I am not based in the EU but have family in the UK who could send me over the parts if they don't deliver. I know it can be cheap to just buy a second hand powered wheelchair but where I am it is not so easy to come across and eventually I would have to adapt it to anyway..I also thought it could be a fun project for me to work on as I was an engineering student. Also is arduino the best way to control it, I am using the viola-jones eye tracking algorithm in matlab.. Thanks for any help! Also if you cant help directly even links to pages that can help would be useful :)))
Question by NadaA2 | last reply
I have a wheelchair and would like to use it as a base to a autonomous robot. I wonder if it would be better to hack the joystick or strip everthing away leaving the motors and frame and control it with Arduino or something similar. I have only used Arduino with small hobby motors. Looking for any suggestions.
Question by Paul Fjare | last reply
It has two 24 volt motors, a joystick and switches that go to the controller, it runs on two lead acid batteries. I think this means I have all the parts to make something awesome but I need help.? The problem is a metal scraper cut off the joystick assembly and threw out the wire that went to the controller, how do i recreate this wire from the leads inside the joystick assembly The schematics for the joystick assembly are unavailable. I will have to reverse engineer it, but i'm not good enough for that. What can I do with these motors and controllers and batteries. The electric trike seems pretty close to what i'm thinking. parts are too big for mountainboard. Its an invacare mark I or Mark II I think, circa 1990 The motors were pushing large standard size rear wheelchair wheels. Let me know your thoughts on this, I am a computer guy looking to be a gear head for a while, but I need a mentor. model number on the arrow micro controller is 1020393
Question by bramletabercrombie | last reply
I've looked everywhere for help on this but can't find an answer. I purchased a Meritt's Regal 310 electric wheelchair that uses a Dynamic DL 5.2i joystick. I've added a quick clip showing the inside of my electric wheelchair controller "DL 5.2i" by Dynamic. If anyone knows how to manually tweak it to provide more power to the motors, please let me know. I've already had a guy from a resale shop try to adjust it with the corresponding handheld device with no luck. I transformed the chair into a portable transport, with room to haul stuff as well as attach a trailing cart for additional items. It works great but has a hard time going up hillls. Thanks, T
Question by Designing Change | last reply
I just picked up a electric wheelchair from Freecycle. It appears to be a 24VDC setup and I haven't tested it yet. It looks like I will have to get some batteries since the original ones are dead. My first idea is a trailer tractor. Like this: http://www.powercaster.com/ --used to help pull a trailer around by hand. Does anyone have any more ideas?
Question by walkthewalk | last reply
I have obtained a joystick module from an electric wheelchair. The board says DYNAMIC CONTROLS (C) Mar 2011 GPC80830 REV E. On the underside of the board, there seems to be test pads labeled the following: +5, MOSI, SCK, MISO, RST. Slightly to the right of +5 is a test pad that says 0V. Below are pads labeled SBL and SBH. Slightly more to the right of 0V is a pad labeled SB+D. Finally, furthest to the right are test pads BCN, BC, and BCP. On the top side of the board there is an ATMEGA8A AU 1114 Micro-controller and an empty 5 pin through hole connector. Also soldered onto the board is a joystick that consists of a coil and 4 smaller coils soldered to the board in a + configuration around it (Some sort of EMF sensors?), a weird 4 pin connector and a 3 pin programming port resembling an XLR connector. Any ideas?
Question by gpotvin | last reply
i just wont to know if i can use a joystick for forward and reverse on the motor i put a picture of the sort i meen like useing it like a dtdp switch its for a electric telescope focuser im making i have it set up mag with 2 microswitches for forward and reverse but just wanted to see if i could solder one of the joystick in place and not the microswitches and without a arduino if anyone can help that would be great thank you
Question by swilliams66 | last reply
I want to make manual wheelchair to be electrically driven. For that I have assumed wheelchair weight to be=20 kg Patient's weight to be=100kg ( max ) Motor with battery = 30 kg (approx) Thus total weight to be = 150 kg (approx) what kind of DC motor along with its rating should be used ?
Question by dhanudi | last reply
Hi (newbie) Im thinking of building my own electric wheelchair and have a few questions. When wiring multiple batteries to the motor controller, is it possible to (for example) if having 9 batteries, wire them in groups of three. So have three sets of three. Three in parallel, wired to be three groups in series. Therefore i could use three switches to be able to turn off some of the batteries. Reason for this is so that if going slowly i could have more control. Also i was thinking of differential steering with maybe two Etek motors, they would power the front wheels due to the torque (potential flipping). Any ideas how many batteries and the best type to use (extreme speed needed lol). Other ideas of potential motors, any advice or knowledge greatly received
Question by cameron11888 | last reply
Last week I had the opportunity to work with a couple of awesome projects that combined to be even more awesome: I drove a powered wheelchair simply by using my brain! Here are a couple more, longer videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJKXFENEDdE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVc4KOgEUlw I was wearing an Emotiv EEG headset that Steve Castellotti of Puzzlebox has configured to work with Lego Brainstorms robots (this is a pretty cool project in itself, check it out at Puzzlebox's site). He has a program that allows the headset wearer to input arbitrary keypresses on the linked computer, configurable to the output from the headset. The wheelchair robot is a work in process from Instructabler jerkey, who has hacked into the joystick controls to allow it to be driven using keypresses on ITS associated computer. So it was relatively simple to log into the robot driver computer from the headset computer and send keypresses. Now, there is a bit more to say about the keypress creation. The goal with an EEG headset is to get brain signals, but facial muscle movements are also detectable (they use electricity too and it turns out that the muscle signals are a lot stronger than the brain signals, for various reasons). For myself, I found it very difficult to repeatably emit consistent brain waves, with only an hour or so of training. It was a lot easier to get the software to detect a blink, wink, or grimace, so that's what I ended up using. Still, I could not drive the robot very accurately, causing great hilarity amongst the observers. More work is needed! But it was an awesome and fascinating experience and I highly recommend it to anyone who has the opportunity. I've asked the two project builders to collaborate on an Instructable. If this happens I will update this forum post with the link.
Topic by rachel | last reply
I have a Futaba RC transmitter and receiver, and an electric wheelchair. I want to be able to control the wheelchair via RC (a-la battlebots), and I do not want to control the joystick via servo. I also want to leave the wheelchair's joystick controls intact and either solder another RC device in tandem with the joystick, or hijack the control by having an external switch that switches from either manual joystick, or RC Freq. I have some experience in electronics, but only in the troubleshooting arena. I can fix things if they are broken and can troubleshoot to the board level, but have no experience building bots and have no RC experience. The solution needs to be low cost please. I can solder build boards from directions. I just have no "vision" of how to put these 2 systems together. I think the words "pwm to analog" have been thrown around online, but I need to know more. Please point me to websites, or send me instructions and Ideas. The wheelchair will not be a wheelchair forever. R2-D2, Wall-E, and an RC Lawnmower are all in contention. Thanks in advance.?
Question by CementTruck | last reply
I have a remote controlled submersible craft and the controller that came with it is incredible clunky. It has 3 switches that each control a motor and you almost need 3 hands to effectively drive the thing. What I want to do is take the 3 switches out and use 2 joy sticks instead – like this schematic I drew up.My problem is that the power coming from the terminals for the original switches is 12v 7Ah, and the joysticks I have are rated for 5v. I need to step down from 12v at the switch terminals from the board to 5v for the joy stick, then from 5v at the joystick back to 12v so I can run power to the motors. Anyone have any ideas?
Question by liebs8888 | last reply
Hi everyone. I have a question I hope someone can help me with regarding my current robot build so I hope this is the right place to ask. I am in the middle of building my own version of a full size K-9 with a few differences that I will be doing an Instructable for when he is completed. I am currently waiting for some parts from EZ Robots to arrive which are due sometime this month (June, 14) and so far I have pretty much completed his body and rolling chassis. The question I want to pose has to do with the rolling chassis/drivetrain. The parts for the chassis have mainly come from a kiddies ride on car which has two 12v, 30w drive motors which produce two fixed forward and reverse speeds (slow 3MPH and fast 5MPH) and a single speed 12v steering motor, connected to a control/radio control receiver box, controlled by a R/C controller and powered by a 12v 7Ah rechargeable battery. The R/C controller will be located inside the body and 2 servos, via the EZ Robots EZ-B controller, will move the joysticks for the chassis movement (one servo for forward and reverse, and the other for left and right). I have this pretty much sorted, but hear is where I need the help . I want to slow all 3 motors down a bit. I would like to have the steering motor turn slower so there is more precise movement via the servo control, and would like to be able to adjust the speed of the drive motors so I can have a slower, almost a crawl, speed while K-9 is roaming the house, and then be able to readjust the speed so he can move quicker around larger area or open spaces. The current "slow" speed is about 3 MPH but it is just a bit to quick to navigate autonomously around my house so I'm looking for a hopefully simple solution. I had an idea of simply splicing through one of the motor wires on each motor and wiring in a 12v potentiometer which I could attach to his control panel and adjust it/them as needed (or even servo controlled, but first things first). Could it be as simple as that or would I need something more? I have also read online about maybe using a PWM but I wouldn't know how to wire it (or them as the case maybe) up. Would using a PWM do what I'm looking to do and would it even work on the set up I have? I am not really experienced in using or installing resistors or soldering circuit boards ect, so a simple "easy for me to do" solution would be great, so any help and advice or solutions anybody here can offer really would be appreciated, and thanks in advance . Steve
Topic by steve-gibbs5 | last reply
Thanks for the replies. Sorry, I will try and explain better...I have dismantled a few CDROM drives and stripped out the stepper motors that move the lens around. I wanted these to make a mini laser engraving machine (which I have all the parts to do now, but that's another project)I am also making an arcade cabinet and was looking to make my own 'spinner'. The spinner acts like a mouse but with only 1 axis. I figured that it should be possible to use the CDROM stepper motor as some sort of input controller, but getting it's electrical output converted to a digital signal is completely beyond me. It will require some sort of USB controller board obviously. I would be surprised if it was impossible to do.I asked the question partly because instructables was asking for suggestions/challenges and maybe I posted in the wrong place.Something like this USB joystick controller board in the images is what could be used to get a signal to the computer. It is quite basic and accepts on/off signals from microswitches in a joystick (left, right, up, down, fire etc).The bit I have no idea about would be getting a stepped on/off signal from the motor(generator) to the board when the motor(generator) was being turned. It would also be critical to know whether it was being turned one way or the other.Once that signal gets to the board (assuming the board is fast enough to read the fast on/off signals) then it is down to the program running on the computer to do what it will with that information, and that part is not what concerns me here.As you can probably tell from my terminology, electronics is not one of my strengths :)And yes Jack A Lopez, using a stepped motor as a stepped generator. Basically that's what I'm asking how to do and if it is possible to know when each step happens and in which direction. :)
Topic by DaddyWio | last reply
Okay, so this is my problem: I'd like to operate two of the mini m-16 style airsoft full automatic guns using the trigger on my old salvaged joystick. So what I have done so far is purchased a battery box for four D cells with the thought that since each worked off of four AA batteries, the larger batteries would run both and they dowhen I connect the wires directly from the battery box to the two guns. The problem comes when I try to use the button as a switch. I've already used a continuity checker to verify that the switch is working and from the correct wires, but when I put the switch in line, all the guns do is make a faint strain sound, like the guns aren't getting enough juice for the motors to run. I've taken apart the joystick and the bottons are very much like the ones I have here shown on the cuircit board, they are like the ones in the base sets of old wireless telephones and such. So if I'm correct, the switch is limiting the amount of electricity going to the guns so I was thinking about using the joystick to operate a relay that connects to the battery box maybe but I'm totally lost when it comes to which relay to use, where to get the relay, if this will even work, etc, also I was thinking about running 12v car accessories from the other buttons so how might I do that. Thank you very much in advance, I love this site!! : )
Question by AKSchonscheck | last reply
Im trying to get a 12 or 24 volt dc small motor to run forward and reverse via remote control .. the remote needs to be very small either a remote using .2 buttons or a small joystick would work with of coarse the center being the neutral .. buttons perfered .. but my power supply is coming off of a 110v dc supply. it doesnt need to turn fast at all ... and it needs to be able to turn so far and stop both ways .. hoping for a gear drive . as i said the motor needs to be slow and be able to be some what able to stop at certain points in its travel .. im sorry if this is a strange question but im am dead as far as electronics go and any help would be greatly appreciated .
Question by ed gaston | last reply
Hello All, I have recently started an ambitious project. There will certainly be much learning along the way. But it is too ambitious? The goal is to build a bot that can be controlled remotely, to aid in the detection, marking, and ultimate removal of unexploded ordinance in Cambodia (in this first application). Though I have never built a robot of any type, I am quickly learning the basics, but would like ultimate beginner advice if anyone had any. If anyone would like details on the project, PM me. It's really a lot for a forum post... If there are any Veterans or military buffs out there, I could really use other first hand accounts of experiencing UEO. Through generous donation and aquisition, I have come cross an electric wheelchair, and many parts needed for a former "Battle-Bot". Battle-bot turns peace-maker. I love it! The motors are Bosche, 24V and ~750watts. Included were DC motor (high amp) speed controls, and 2x 12v 26A sealed lead-acid batteries. Very very excited to really dig in. I lack a quality track or model of a good track to use for traction, etc. Anyone know of any good and sturdy RC tank tracks I could look at for design or actual construction? Though I began to construct my own track out of sheet metal and various materials available (it actually turned out kinda ok), I don't intend on reinventing the wheel, as it were. 3" took me almost 2 hours. Will also be incorporating a ~3'-4' rotating and articulating arm. Trying to keep its weight to under ~30lbs. The wheelchair frame is very strong and moddable, Ws thinking of using a lazy susan type bearing, but I'm not sure I could find one rated for that weight for an affordable price. Any suggestions? Thanks for checking this out. Again, if you want more details, I'm happy to share my plans. Just PM me. This is being designed 100% open-source, and 100% documented with a video and written journal in order to be easily duplicated. Constructive criticism is NOT personal criticism! Huck
Topic by huck alexander | last reply
My time as an Artist in Residence at Instructables went something like this: I arrived in San Francisco and arrived at the Instructables office. I was (to be honest, though now I'm so embarrassed by this assumption) expecting cubicles. Instead, there was energy, vibrancy, and TONS OF COOL PROJECTS!!I There were electronics scattered about (which is, like, enough to lure me in for life :). I met Noah and a few others. After discussing some contract stuff, he told me to come by for some pizza and ice cream in the afternoon. Sounds pretty cool... So, I went to Tech shop, I was blown away by the amound ot 3d printers, laser cutters and other amazing fabrication tools all under one roof, all waiting for me to use :) Then ... free pizza and ice cream, and a bunch of new people... sounds fun. I arrived at 4:30 and it wasn't quite a party, just yet. it was a talk. And an extremely interesting one, with a big portion of the Autodesk community present. So I really started to get a sense of who was in the community, and where does Instructables fit in. Then, I got to see .. DRY ICE ICE CREAM!!! So cool. Actually enough to entice me to order dry ice for a near future party! Anyway, I somewhat rapidly began to feel right at home. I ordered some parts for some projects and I began working straightaway. I started working on small electronics projects and other experiments related to water and boat robots. The next day (Thursday) I got a call at 10 PM in the evening… It was Noah. I was working at Tech shop at the time (I tried to work at Instructables office in the morning then head to T.S. in the afternoon to do some bigger scale construction work in the woodshop. Well, the Redbull challenge had been announced ("games") and they had begun brainstorming how to make… yes, remote control electric wheelchairs, that were controlled by a user who had a blindfold on, and would be listening through a wireless radio to commands from the person in the wheelchair with no control over themselves. Anyway, I headed straight over to Instructables, and the 72 hours began… The next morning, I head over with Randy to pick up our will-call items from Jameco, including arduinos, wireless arduino shields, xbees etc etc. Then we headed to Noah's shop in Emeryville… and the hacking began. An unfortunate thing was that I had to go to teach Arduino at Tech Shop Sunday evening, which is when the actual fun of riding the wheelchair occurred. Anyway, it was a super cool weekend of collaboration and intense work. Oh, and by the way, see here how to make your own: PSYCHO SCOOTER scramble, here. The rest of the summer continued on, the biggest accomplishment for me was getting Sneel_003 built and tested in the water. A really cool next step would be to get some 123d catch of underwater objects, trying it out at the aquarium, then do some 3d printing of cool underwater stuff. I did various other projects involving wireless communication, using Arduino for various electronics projects, programming joysticks and remote controllers, etc. A really neat thing is that every day at 2 pm there is "show and tell" which is just a quick "go around the table and say briefly what you've done in the past day". So I really got to get a feel for the way that things were working, who was operating on what, what was happening in the office and out of the office. So I felt immediately a part of the family, in a sense. Instructables is a super cool place: the facilities were amazing, the people were vibrant and knowledgable and motivated and fun, and the experience was super. The facilities I used most were: laser cutter, vacuum forming machine, woodshop, tons of electronics, 3d printer… Everyone I met from Instructables and AutuDesk as a whole was super helpful and great to talk to. It is really a great community. Before I left, I gave a presentation of my work during my time at Instructables. Here are the slides:
Topic by gabriellalevine | last reply
Please help! I procured an electric wheelchair today (worn and torn, but in good shape. It had 2 12v batteries, little smaller than an auto batt. Didn't write down the amperage tho...The batteries were visually inspected for bowed or expanded sides, cracks, oxidation. Everything appeared in order. They have likely been sitting for some time. Stupidly, I did not check electrolyte levels. Oops. Could easily be low. I plugged the charger into the mainboard for 30 minutes, watching closely. No issues, no overheating. I left it for another 2 hours. Again, no noticeable issues. I tested the drive motors by controlling it around my driveway briefly. Power was very low. It worked, but clearly lacked juice. I plugged the batts in for another 4 or 5 hours. But after that time, I noticed a crackling/squealing (faint) sound. As if pressure was escaping. Bad news. I had the chair chassis (and batts) in my workshop, and now I was afraid it may blow, contaminating everything. The batteries feel warm. One more than the other. Beginning to panic, I threw on my goretex, respirator, goggles and gloves and carefully detached the battery cable from the main board. I've never had one of this size blow, and have no idea what it could do. very hesitantly, I rolled it into my garage, and closed the door. Now I'm afraid to sleep, because I'm concerned about it. Is this Normal old battery behavior? Could this be due to low electrolytes? A small crack in the case? Is there anything I can do besides wait? I'm not real anxious to go too close for too long. Is there anything I can do that would not increase hazard? I'm about to throw a tarp over it, but is there a high flammability risk if a high amperage 12v were to blow? Guidance highly appreciated. Thank you.
Topic by huck alexander | last reply
Hi Everyone I have a problem with a project I started to overcome my unique disability , this project was to basically install low powered electric motor on a kneewalker so I could get assistance / go off-road , yet still use it manually if need be i.e. to get some exercise or more importantly if battery dies ( something I cant do with mobility scooter or wheelchair ) The problem however is I cant do this myself due my disability ( weld it , use power tools etc ) so I had this person i meet on a another forum who agreed to help me - but unfortunately he hasnt - so instead I am trying to find a replacement for him or any one that is willing to help. The motor itself ( Motor - MW12B GoldenMotor )seems to work fine using a Lyens controller , but unfortunately there is no direct link to the hub motor whose details are below. Model: MW12B -- 12" Motor Wheel Voltage:36V (Brushless) Power Rate:250W Weight: 4.8Kgs You will have to got to the gm website on the link above click on hub motors and scroll down to find more details , including links to 3d drawings . You can see the motor itself working in following videos that were posted by the person who still has it video1 video2 video3 Due to the size difference of the wheel ( 16" compared to the front 9" using MTB tires ) amongst other things, we were trying to find a way to mount it that he suggested would probably involve having to weld on some strong rear forks from a bike or perhaps something else. Ive included the whole assessment / plan we did based on our mutual ideas and discussions below for reference, but Im afraid thats pretty much it , as I dont have any of the parts here for reference or than the basic facts . If any ones interested in helping , or going me any advice Id be grateful for your suggestions , if any ones wants to offer their services at a price just send me a pm and we discuss things further. thanks for listening , heres the assessment / plan I mentioned.. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I need to figure out a rough plan for the wheel mounting, plus brake mounting. We need to get disc and caliper. We need to figure out what front wheels, how to mount them, and how to fix the sloppy steering. In order to go see a welder we need to know where to weld the dropouts, the caliper mounts, and what, if any welding to do at the front end. Assessment Frame - good, solid, heavy. bulletproof. Wheels - strong, solid, better made with bearings etc better than expected. but hard tires are not nice, and wheels are a little too thin and too small. I expect its easy to get hung up on small obstacles. brakes - crap. none existent basically. Just a bit of metal pushing on the tyre. Also the lever is either crap or a bit broken. need to inspect it. steering - not very good but not crap. whole linkgae is a bit loose and wobbly, just held together by a few bolts. this means it has a fair bit of play in the steering. The whole thing with the bolts is that they have to be a bit loose otherwise the steering won't move. not a very good design. but it will do. handlebars/stem/steerer - designed to be collapsible easily, which is good, but there is also excessive play in this as well. it will do but its not great. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Thoughts.... Because there is four wheels, I found that on uneven floors (just around the front room the floorboards were uneven enough) one wheel is often off the ground a tiny bit. This would be solved by having 3 wheels or tyres with a bit of give in them. I would not want to keep any of the wheels. I would want to replace the front wheels with something a bit wider softer and grippier. like scooter wheels or MTB wheels. Brakes - the center of gravity is quite far forward. if it had brakes only on the front then i feel like it might tip over. then again, with the weight of the frame, the motor, batteries and person, maybe not. I will do some testing. Motors - Golden has the 8" single sided solid tyre motors that would be the easiest conversion, but I don't like the solid tyres and I don't like having 2 wheels at the back. I already ran into my foot. There is also the 8" double sided solid tire. This is not so easy either because it is the same size as the existing wheels therefore the axle would want to go exactly where the existing axles join. Could be done with cutting and welding but would be a pain, plus you still have the solid tire etc. I held up a 12" dinner plate and I reckon it would not look so bad actually. I will take some pics tomorrow. It looks like we would need to cut off a bit of the back section and weld on some dropouts, a bit higher up and further in than the existing axle mounts.. It looks like it will fit under the knee platform ok as well. Controller - because we may well end up with a motor that is not exactly right for the job, I think its all the more important we get a controller with some intelligence. Something programmable where we can set a low voltage, top speed etc. This leads us back to the GM controller, Lyens mini monster, or......I just thought, hmmm the kelly controllers are programmable - well they do a little controller that might be up for the job as well. In fact it looks the most programmable one so far. It is the mini one next to the coke can here: Hub & Wheel Motor Controller | EV Parts They have one that does 12-24v for $79 or $99 depending on max amps. You can get it waterproof for an extra $19 http://kellycontroller.com/kbs2405120a1 ... p-499.html It is fully programmable, see the software screenshots and manual here: Kelly KBS controllers online demo/help-Kelly Controls, LLC http://kellycontroller.com/mot/download ... Manual.pdf You need a serial port on your computer to program it, if you don't have one you need a serial to USB converter. They sell one for $29. Kelly are good controllers. I never thought of them until just now - I usually associate them with high power controllers for cars and motorbikes. When I used to work at Sevcon (who make argubaly the best...and most expensive...controllers you can get.)....kelly was one of the few competitors we kept an eye on. If you look at the setup software, you can fine tune min throttle, max throttle, max amps, max speed, all kinds of things. It will be just the ticket for fine tuning. --------------------------------------------------------------------- So........... This would be my personal plan right now - Electronics: $115 Motor - MW12B (GM) $98 kelly controller waterproofed $29 Serial RS232 to USB converter (from kelly) $20 throttle (max) $20 ebrake lever (max) $50 wiring, connectors, etc -------- $332 Frame / Fabrication: $50 old steel bike to steal dropouts off (maximum, probably less from craigslist or a garage sale) $150 to pay someone to weld the dropouts on and maybe brake caliper mounts plus machine front wheel mounts if necessary for new wheels (maximum) $50 (max) 2 front wheels MTB or scooter 8 inch with pneumatic tyres. $30 (max) new axles, bolts, washers etc $30 box for battery plus mounting bolts etc $50 (max) for respray or powdercoat frame (will be messy after welding. something to put the battery in ----------------------- $360 Brakes $20 (max) brake disk for rear plus screw on adapter for rear hub Brake discs $40 (max) brake caliper (cable ok, hydraulic not needed) $50 bolt on brake caliper mount (seen them somewhere but can't find right now) price is a guess. --------------------------- $110 Battery depends. I am clueless as to the requirements of this system. I can test with my own batteries once it is setup. Then we will know, but at a minimum you will be talking about 18 or 24v 10 amp hour. That is : $199 from ping
Topic by hele | last reply