I would like to know how to make a door knob give some one a shock when they touch it?
Topic by jaadmc | last reply
I have a 6.35mm smooth shaft Potentiometer and looking for a knob to go onto it. I've seen the set/grub screw type, i get how they work but worried about slipping. Also seen the collet type but not to sure how they clench down on the shaft. The shaft isn't threaded, as just a groove running along the top of it. Would it work like a conventional collet from say a dremmel tool?
Topic by JonathanM221 | last reply
I was wondering what finish i could put on a shift knob i made out of purple heart. It is something that i will be touching every day, and it isn't light use. At first i was thinking linseed oil, since i heard people use it on gun stocks and stuff that people like to keep natural looking. But my father suggested some sort of wax instead of an oil. He's got some goddards cabinet wax i could try. Also i sanded it smooth and went to 800 grit sandpaper so it is very smooth. I was even wondering if it is possible that it is so smooth that it doesn't accept a finish well. Any and all advice is welcome,
Question by Tomahawk92 | last reply
Hi. I'm looking for a button/potentiometer ... best described as AIR CON control in car. Where the middle is a button (on/off) - not rotating and it's just the round edge that is turning/rotating. Preferably continuous rotation, so there isn't any min /max for the rotation. Please, can you advice the proper "English" name for this part. Or a link to few examples ? THANK YOU in advance. Z
Question by zholy | last reply
I have a Lakewood model 101 AB box fan that I had in storage for several years and when I took it out to use it, it is missing the rear back power/speed selection knob. It is 1" diam. and needs a small slot in order for it to attach to the post sticking out from the motor. I have spent quite a bit of time searching for this or an appropriate universal knob and I recently learned Lakewood went out of business several years ago. Any ideas on where I can find this elusive part so that I can use my fan? Thank you very much for your help.
Topic by Mooseygina | last reply
So my new major has me in a machine shop that is at my disposal. I have made a few shift knobs but with living in the Northeast it can get cold in the winter months. I want to heat the knobs, which means finding something that is... - Small enough to fit inside a roughly 1" dia cylinder, depth minimal. - Quickly heat the knob - But not over heat it - Run on a 12v standard supply - Minimal cost I have considered trying to find a "Heating Element" but am unable to find such in a size I need and within a price I want. Maybe a soldering Iron element? I tried "Peltier" but they all are over-sized and debate the conflicting effects of hot and cold. However if figured out I could flip it for summer. I debated running a resistor/other electronic component with just enough power to cause it to heat up, but am worried about it breaking. I wanted to do a high power light bulb, but don't see that working as well as I plan. So I am kinda at a loss...if you have a specific item you can link me to let me see it, or just let me know of an item I can use.
Topic by scubaru | last reply
Hello world! I have a random issue that has been stumping my class since it began: the doorknob is warm. No other doorknob there is warm. There are a few other knobs in the room and they aren't warm, so I don't think it has to do with the heat difference. They aren't just a little warm, they are significantly warmer than other doorknobs. I'm in a room full of engineers and none of us have any idea why they're so warm!
Question by stale56 | last reply
I would like to create an led powered by batteries that can change from Green to Yellow to Red and off. I can use either one RGB led or 3 different leds (Reg, green and yellow obviously) If having a yellow light makes this more challenging, then I can change the yellow to blue. Do I need a controller? Can I just use wires and resisters? I would like to keep this as simple as possible to start out. The whole idea is to have someone be able to either turn a 4-position knob, or push a button to change the color of the LED. I saw another question on Instructables about this topic, but I could not find any solid answers. Thank you for any help you can provide. If you need me to provide more information just ask. Thanks again.
Question by silent.zee | last reply
I need to gain access to my NEFF oven operation/temperature selectors but to do this I have to first remove the push-in/push-out knobs. How do I do this? I have taken the top of the oven off but it is not apparent how to remove the knobs as there are no obvious screws to be removed.
Question by Naff18 | last reply
I want to make one with a sdn (shock door knob) with a off on switch so i an get in. Any ideas are accepted. robo_directions,
Question by robo_directions | last reply
I have a 1958 Pfaff 332 sewing machine with a broken knob made of bakelite. Replacement knobs are not available. It occurred to me that it might be possible to cast a replacement with a different resin. I have no experience with casting and don't know what kind of resin would be best.. I saw the antique radio knob replacement ible, and liked the idea of using a flexible mold for detail. This knob engages a major cam mechanism and should be fairly strong. The old knob 'handle' was broken off when I got the machine. The images of complete knobs are from the web. The complete knob is about 1 inch by two inches. What product available in the USA do you recommend?
Question by mole1 | last reply
So i just got a recever from a friend of mine but the master volume control is shot. in order to adjust the volume you need to shove the vol knob into the device and twist it hard so i want to build a simple device that has 4 individual volume knobs (1 for each channel) what parts do i need to buy to do this * ive seen llights that light to the sound of music how much would it be to buy these parts from radioshack https://www.instructables.com/id/Blinking-LEDs-to-Music/ another thing i forgot to mention is in the front it has 2 switches (1 for 1 left and right channel and another for another L/R channel) but they wwill not work at the same time why? i still need to put outputs on my guitar amp and i need to know how to do that i dont know if this helps but both guitar amp and receiver are 8 ohms
Question by fastcar123 | last reply
Should I start with a universal remote or use a kit? Will a rotary encoder work? It would be really cool if I could press the knob for on/off as well. Any ideas?
Question by firehazrd | last reply
I recently became the proud new owner of a 2010 Buick Lucerne CXL, and i'm in the process of customizing a few minor things in the interior. Which leads me to my question. As I think the stock shifter knob is very boring and of course standard-looking, I am attempting to replace it with an aftermarket knob that uses set screws. However, I cannot work out how to remove the stock shifter knob to put the new one in, as it is not threaded like most shifter knobs are. I found on an online forum information about the 2006 edition which suggests that in that model year, the knob friction-fit onto the shift column and all you have to do to remove it is put the car in neutral (with the engine off) and pull straight up on the knob. Does anyone know if this is the same for the 2010 model? ANY help would be very greatly appreciated, as i cannot find any information on my model year anywhere else on the internet, and it is not included in the car owner's manual. Thank you! :-)
Question by jester_5123 | last reply
The lock seems to be unlocked but we still cannot open the door. We have removed the knob on both sides, but still cannot find a release for the lock from the inside or the outside of the door. any suggestions??
What exactly does the attack knob on an MXR Super Comp do? I checked on Jim Dunlop's website and it said something about preserving volume blah blah blah... I want to know what it's doing as you turn it up.
Question by adamgillies | last reply
I dont have the money and i love this acoustic guitar what can i use to fix it?
Question by lizbeth00 | last reply
I'm barely schooled in robotics and RC. Seems I'm searching for a needle in a haystack without the precise terminology. I'd like to turn a knob on a remote chassis. The knob presently turns manually from stop to stop approximately six times. It meters L/min of air. Low torque equivalent to about average for volume/bass/treble controls on a stereo. I'd like to be enabled to turn this knob at an indexible 1:1 ratio with a handheld remote transmitter that utilizes a likewise rotary knob. Once the servo/stepper or other is mounted axially to the chassis mounted knob and powered by a wall transformer, the hand held remote need not be indexed to match it precisely. 1/4 ID hose attaches to the unit and a L/min flow meter is attached to the remote. Rf would be highly desirable. If necessary, or practical, I'd go with a wired rotary encoder/controller to accomplish the same. I'm unable to find either option after a day of searching online. Fully willing to cannibalize existing products as well. It's sometimes much easier and cheaper way to go. Thanks
Question by brad.williamson.3110 | last reply
The effect light below is supposed to sequence the lights on and off, one at a time, in response to music (sound). Well it does that, but not until the input is around 95 - 100 DBs. I'm trying to figure out what to replace so that it responds to sounds at lower DB levels. The left knob on the rear is for sound adjustment (worthless at this point), the right knob is the chase (sequence)speed. The sound is set to max and the lights still doesn't respond until you really crank the music up. CN2 is where the sound and chase controls connect. It's wired, left to right as follows 1 - red from chase knob 2 - yellow from chase knob 3 - red from sound knob 4 - yellow from sound knob 5 - blue from sound knob The pin block in front of CN2 is power and the other block goes to LEDs on the rear of the unit. I'm trying to figure out what I can replace to make this more sensitive to sound input. The mic isn't the issue, I've tried several and even directly wired headphone input into it and still had to crank it up before it would respond. No comments on my soldering butcher job on the back. The red wire is the positive to the mic (which should be in the burned out hole to the left, but it works there - no better, but no worse) Any thoughts at all on what I could play with to make this thing respond to sound a lower levels would be greatly appreciated.
Topic by BradWhite | last reply
Hi, I am in the process of re-doing my kitchen and I have need for about 40 cabinet pulls/knobs. I want something interesting and am leaning towards an existing flat-top pull/knob and affixing 1/2" glass squares to it. The pull/knob I'm considering is 1/2" wide and 4 3/4" length. Questions: Would Expoxy be the best adhesive? What could I do that would make the pull/knob smooth so that the cracks between the pieces of glass don't cut any fingers? Is resin a possibility? You Instructable-ites are so smart and creative, I can't imagine getting a more creative answer from anywhere else Help!!
Topic by LStephens2 | last reply
Help! I need to drill into an Ikea aluminum door frame to add a knob. I don't want to break the tempered glass. Thanks
Topic by judyb52 | last reply
Okay, I bought an older karaoke system, which I am using as a speaker for my iPod and an amp for my guitar. As you have probably deducted from that, it has RCA stereo auxiliary inputs and 2 mic inputs. I plug my iPod into the RCA aux in jacks, and it is sending out a stereo signal. The cable I use is a special cable originally intended for an audio/video cable for my camera. It's wiring scheme allows me to use it as a 3.5 mm (1/8 in) male audio plug to the two stereo, RCA male plugs. I press play on my iPod, and of course music comes out. The "amp" has a balance pot on it (pot meaning knob). When the balance pot is centered, the left channel is full volume, but the right channel is weak. To get the full right channel, I have to turn the pot all the way right, which of course blocks the left channel out. There is a "sweet spot" around the 4 o clock position that evens out the channels, but they aren't as strong.
Question by KaydenST | last reply
Ok so I have a helicopter. The remote is very cheap for it. I was wonder if I could put a resistor on the left/right control knob to slow it down. The knob goes in increments, but the increments are too fast. If I put a resistor there, would it slow the increments down?
Question by HavocRC | last reply
Every Christmas we go caroling and i'm not skilled enough to stand and play at the same time without a strap. But my guitar has no knobs for a strap. I know there might be certain kinds of straps for this situation, but is there a way to just make a good one?
Question by sabriner | last reply
To stop break ins
Question by lty516 | last reply
Hello - I am looking for a switch to control volume. Essentially I am looking for a switch like the kind used on RC Cars to control left/right movement. Its the kind of rotary knob that goes two directions with some sort of spring that makes it return to center as off. Anybody know where I can find one? Thanks, -Joe
Topic by joe | last reply
Hello there, I broke 4 of my sliders of my M-audio Axiom 49 and bended 5 Precision rotary knobs. I tried to order new parts at M-audio but they discontinued the production of the 1ste generation of M-audio Axiom 49 keyboard controllers and they cannot deliver the goods. So opened this sucker up and just googled Pots B10k and to my amazement I found a website with all these Precision Potentiometers. http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?FS=TRUE&N;=4294759271+16330845+1323043 http://http://www.alibaba.com/catalogs/--400502------------351-4333 I mean 1000, I went looking for what I needed. The only problem is everything looks the same, I don't see any part numbers that could identify the parts on my board. So I was thinking I should ask some one who has and eye for this and is much smarter than me :) Can you help me identify the type of Precision Potentiometers on the boards you see on the pictures I posted.-->(sorry for the bad quality)
Topic by Martron | last reply
If so what is it called and is it expensive? (above $200)
Question by GalaxyX | last reply
I'm trying to upgrade the control circuit on my cheap TIG welder. The existing control is a 10k ohm potentiometer, mounted on the welder. It's wired up such that the voltage drop across the pot is proportional to the welders output. Instead of having one knob that controls the output, I want one knob on the welder's panel that selects the maximum output, and another knob ( to be mounted in a foot pedal control) that allows me to select output power from zero up to the maximum value that is set on the panel knob. Seems to me that there should be a relatively simple, elegant solution that gets covered in the second year of an electrical engineering course. Or am I just insane to think that such a thing should be simple? I've tapped out my own social network, and I can't find anyone who will admit to being an electrical engineer. Thanks.
Topic by CTroyer | last reply
I am restoring a 1935 South Bend 16 metal turning lathe. The original motor was a three phase 480 Volt reversible motor which was operated by the Cutler Hammer 9441H37B "O" series controller. I do not have three phase electrical power at my current shop. I do have a new 110/220 volt, 1.5HP, reversible motor on hand and would like to control it with the current C/H controller and utilize the reversible option on 110 volt power. I have wired the motor once and it ran well and reversed, however, the motor heats on one end after running for a few minutes. It is possible I have either a fault in the circuits or I think it is more probable I have wired the motor so that the starting circuit remains energized which would also cause the heating after a few minutes of operation. I need to know a method or determining the correct wiring diagram for the combination. There are six wires on the motor, (T1) blue, (T2) white, (T3) orange, (T4) yellow, (T5) black, and (T)8 red. There is also a grounding connection which I have connected to the gounding connection of the controller. The controller knob has three positions, left, center(straight up) and right. The continuity of the controller connections is as follows; Left Position of controller knob Center Position of controller knob Right Position of controller knob (I do not know whether the left or right position of the knob is forward, since the lettering is worn away) 9 8 7 9 8 7 9 8 7 6 5 4 6 5 4 6 5 4 3 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 1 Knob end (left position) Knob end (center position) Knob end (right position) Continuity of controller Continuity of controller Continuity of Controller 7, 8, 6 7, 6 7, 5, 6 4, 5, 9 4, 9 4, 8, 9 1, 2, 3 1, 3 1, 2, 3
Question by girural | last reply
I have a heater control panel from a 2010 dodge journey that I want to use in a custom made kit car. The control knobs are all based upon resistance, no IC's are used in the panel. The fan speed knob has 4 positions, off/low/med/high (only uses two pins on the board connector) The temp knob has 13 positions from hot to cold in which the AC is automatically triggered from the middle position to full cold, and the heat from warm to full hot (only uses three pins, one common and one for each side of the knobs range) The 3 position selector switch (face/bi-level/floor) also uses only two pins. This board is designed for a max of 5 volts, which I already have that instructable for that. But what I need help on is how to make 3 sets of controls for the various knobs. One for fan speed one for the heat/ cold and one for the position selector switch. Im trying to find a way to create a switching action created by various voltages as they are running through the control board, that will trigger 12 volt effects for the fan speed, and a servo for the heater duct changer. The heater knob will need to turn on or off the AC, and control a shut off valve for the coolant heater control valve. But like a RC servo it would turn in relation to the voltage applied. Would transitors work in this case? Any ideas? Id like to get past this and move into the fabrication of the system. But this is stopping me cold right now.
Topic by ydeardorff | last reply
Hey guys I have an arduino question. I want to run both servo sweep and servo knob at the same time But be controlled by a button. Like servo swep starts up, i mash a button, then servo knob comes on and i can manually control the servo. then push a button (either the same or another) and servo sweep comes back. This is for arduino uno r3. Please advise
Question by thematthatter | last reply
How can I make my own SIMPLE digital delay circuit with 2 control knobs... one for the INTENSITY of the delay and one for FEEDBACK DURATION / TIME' ? If you can help me, I would really appreciate it. Thomas
Question by fullcircle | last reply
I built a "barn-door" tracker to take photos of planets and stars so that they are tracked (i.e they appear as dots, not trails). See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barn_door_tracker if you want more info about trackers of this type. My tracker can be seen in the first two photos here: http://www.tjimaging.com/ted/astro.htm These devices depend upon the user manually turning a knob at exactly one rpm for as many as fifteen minutes. This is (very) tedious, but gets good results. The biggest difficulty is in keeping the proper rate of knob-turning. I use a stopwatch timer and have a pointer on the knob so I can manually match each second as it goes by. This has to be done in the *dark*, though, for obvious reasons! So there's an additional problem of lighting the dial and stopwatch. My idea would be to affix a steady red LED to the end of the knob pointer and to use an analog clock consisting of 60 red LEDs arranged in a circle around the knob. Only one LED would be lit at a time, starting at 12 o'clock position, and advancing one LED at a time, clockwise, and keeping each LED lit for one second. This arrangement would let me simply match the knob's steady LED with the currently-lit one and thus makes manual matching of the "second hand" visually easy. I expect a 555 timer circuit (powered by battery, not A/C, for portability) could handle this task, but I don't know enough about electronics to know for sure. I'd like to keep the cost lower than it would be if an Arduino-based circuit were used. I've also never made a custom printed circuit board, but I'm game to try after building a successful breadboard. I just need a schematic! Thanks, all.
Topic by tjerome | last reply
Recently i purchased a bass amp (240W on a 15 inch speaker, got it for $180) Now when i crank up both the gain and volume to about 7 or 8 on the amp and one volume knob all the way and the other volume knob about a quarter of the way on my bass, and start playing slap, a red (doesn't usually indicate something good) LED next to the gain knob illuminates. so i turn it back down. Cause its either telling me "HEY! Hey you, yes you! this is going to kill me!" or its just telling me that its protecting it. So anyone know what it really does?
Topic by wingman246 | last reply
Its to use for ailerons on my rc plane
Question by GalaxyX | last reply
The stainless cabinet handles are manufactured from stainless steel material as they carries better finish as well as durable. Stainless steel is also the favourite material house ware and kitchen ware too. It is also the main choice for cabinet handle specifically for bathrooms and kitchens mainly due to their easily maintenance. Besides the benefits above, the color and finish of the stainless steel handles looks rather good against cabinet background. Wooden, fiber or plastic material. Modern contemporary kitchen design fit very well with stainless steel handles, and there are good selections of styles to select from. Normally it is not economic and easy to change out the entire kitchen cabinet and it is rather costly, so changing the knobs and pulls may be a good way to refresh the cabinet. Besides the decorative function, the cabinet knobs and handles are also useful in a number of ways. As cabinet door go through lots of wear and tear, so they are easily damaged. Their paint and polish can easily drop off over time. Hence the stainless steel knobs and handles are the better choice for kitchen cabinet due to their durability. but in the market nowadays, many distributors will sell SS201 Material handles rather than SS304 handles due to price problems, and SS201 will rust very easy, so if considered the price, there is another alternative choice, that´s Zinc alloy handles or Alu handles or knobs, especially Zinc alloy handles can be processed in many different finishing. Whatever types of knobs or handles you choose, they ought to fit in the theme of the kitchen. Hence do check out the different styles of the stainless steel handles. Do check out www.fashion-alen.com for more related information
Topic by Imex international
On the back side of the collar there is a knob that says something like "preset by the factory don't change".
Question by dxknelso | last reply
I'm looking for a specific type of switch... I believe that it must exist, but I have never seen it... I need a rotary switch, where each clockwise "click" (partial turn) makes one circuit momentarily, and each counter-clockwise turn makes a different momentary conection... example with two light bulbs ( L1 and L2 ) connected to each direction of travel, respectively: If you rotate the knob one "click" (say 15 degrees) clockwise, L1 flashes for a moment, as the knob is in motion. if you continue clockwise, L1 will flash at each "click". If you rotate the knob one "click" counter-clockwise, L2 flashes for a moment. if you continue counter-clockwise, L2 will flash at each "click". There is no center-point, so any clockwise travel corresponds to L1, and any counter-clockwise travel corresponds to L2. does anyone know where I could get a couple of these??
Topic by gschoppe | last reply
Hey guys, I have been thinking, and I am going to build some solar speakers. Now this is not my first time building solar speakers, so I know how to wire everything. The only difference is this time I want to want to build my own amplifier. I want to build a 2 channel 60-80watt amplifier. I haven't found any schematics online that are similar to those, and I would want to wire in an off switch, a volume knob, a bass knob, and a treble knob. Also, I would want to wire in an 3.5MM jack at the minimum. If anybody could help me with some schematics and a list of parts, that would be wonderful. Also, if anyone knows how, is it possible to wire a USB port onto here that will not only charge the device, but would also play music from the device to the amp. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Question by Athelestan | last reply
So in a nutshell: I'm following an instructable where potentiometers are used which i was never working with before. Those potentiometers are covered with some potentiometer-knobs which are between the enclosure and the potentiometers. And now I have some questions ... a) how do I fix / secure the potentiometers inside the enclosure so they don't move when I turn them, but the potentiometer-knobs do, and b) how thick is the enclosure allowed to be when I use 500K, 5% tolerance potentiometers? This is so frustratingly confusing.
Question by Skelpolu | last reply
About a year ago I got one end of an wireless microphone system at a yard sale. As far as I can tell, it is the sending unit. The recieving unit is lost to posterity, which is why it was so cheap, and has since been collecting dust. It has an RCA line in, 1/4 inch microphone in, a squelch knob, an output knob, a two-foot antenna, and a power button. It says it operates at 49.83MHz FM. I don't have a receiver that will pick up that frequency, and I'd like to know what it would take to build one. Perhaps mod an existing FM radio?
Topic by Rishnai | last reply
Nothing fancy, I want it to fit in my guitar, I don't need attack and sustain knobs, just an on/off switch that gives sustain or takes it off.
Question by beardedknome
I love my acoustic, it's a Kona K-2 lefty. but I was recently modifying my sisters old bass to make it left handed and I was moving the knobs so my hand wouldn't brush across them, getting rid of the need for the piece of metal that held them where they were. I liked the look of the piece and decided i wanted to put it on my acoustic. As you'll see in the picture, their are holes in the piece of metal where the knobs go, I was wandering of drilling where those holes are would modify the sound of the guitar significantly and if it could be beneficial?
Question by tieguy | last reply