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Is it possible to laminate papers at home without machine? Answered

I need to laminate some art works, pictures, but I don't have laminating machine at home. Have to go out (local stores, printing shops) each time to laminate anything (art work on paper, picture etc). it would have been easier if there was any way to laminate papers at home without machine. Is it possible?

Question by Muhaiminah Faiz    |  last reply

is there any way to glue laminated paper to itself?

I have some paper pieces that I laminated with a laminating machine - so it has that smooth tough glossy plastic shielding all around it.  I want to glue the laminated paper together and nothing seems to hold so far.   I have tried roughening up the parts to be glued with a file and super glue - no good.  I've tried "Tacky Glue" - nothing.    I also tried heating up the surfaces to be glued with a hot knife in an attempt to roughen it up and then glue it - not working. I thought heat might work, but I don't have a way to administer the heat to the areas without causing damage Staples work, but they mar the aesthetics - and in some places I don't have a long enough stapler to reach where I need the connection. Thanks for any info -foo

Question by foobear    |  last reply

Can you suggest some other materials for Candy Wrapper Bags? Answered

Rolls of candy wrap plastic/cellophane don't seem to be available in Australia.( I don't know what to call them")   I have made several so called candy wrapper bags using paper and tape so I want to find a "paper" that is already laminated or weather/waterproofed as my arthritic hands are not suited to all the cutting and sticking of paper and sticky tape. My current bag takes over 300 pieces so reducing some of the steps will make it more manageable. Any ideas will be greatly welcomed. Thank you.

Question by craftyv    |  last reply

Which would be better for a makeshift crossbow, thick rubber or laminated bamboo?

     I was going to make this instructable on another sort of paper crossbow, because I promised that I would make a new version of it. But then I just decided to make a real crossbow. And so it got me thinking; should it be laminated bamboo or just a piece of rubber.      I know it will be very strong if I used laminated bamboo, but then again my hands are weak so I'm gonna' have to improvise a windlass for that. I'll have to do the same if I use really thick rubber. If you have any other suggestions for my ballista looking future crossbow, then bring it. I don't want to lose my hands while making and operating this thing.

Question by nutsandbolts_64    |  last reply

how to make tobacco pouch for rolling cigarettes?

 For any smokers who roll their own ciaretes. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on how to makes a pouch to hold tobacco, complete with a pocket to hold papers and possibly filters. I've seen these made with laminated magazines and stuff but the logistics are way over my heard...thanks!HOw do I do this??? HI

Question by ctrotman    |  last reply

Paper glue that can withstand outdoor temps from -15 to +100 degrees F.

I have an interpretive pavilion and the thing in question is out of the sun and water, however it gets full temperature range for Northern Illinois. From as low as negative 15 up to 100 degree Fahrenheit.I have a poster to attach to poster board and then it sits against plexiglass. The glue squares that are spongy plastic didn't hold photos to plastic last year, so I am trying to have photos printed on poster and need to make it stiff by either laminating or gluing to poster board (paper).What glue can handle such extreme temperatures during the year and hold paper to paper essentially?

Question by Doowhop  

Hi New here and new to crafting! Have a question about making coasters out of laminates.

Hello and thanks for reading.  Lurker around here for years first time posting.  I really hope someone can help me. Allow me to explain for a second if you will indulge me.   I worked at a radio station for a few years and in those few years I have acquired an insane amount of stuff I have a ton of stickers, shirts, jackets, sweaters, posters, banners, autographed stuff, lanyards and of course Credentials or laminates which were badges that we wore for our big events to get access in and out of all areas of the events.   Today I am asking about the credentials.  I want to make those into coasters.  I am moving soon and I figured these would make great coasters.  I have put up some pics of them so you can see they are basically a paper laminated on both sides very sturdy that is until they get wet.  When they get wet they split in the middle )laminate and a little paper on each side.   I am coming to you people for ideas on how I can make these into durable coasters.  I actually have about 50 of these and another 20 in other shapes (triangles, octagons, squares) but mostly I am interested in the square ones.   I did search for how to make coasters and there is a lot of stuff on how to make them but not make them durable.  Any help would be greatly appreciated Heck if you have any other ideas on what I could do with them to make them into a cool memory item I would love to hear that to as well as what to do with all the other stuff I have.  Thanks :) have a great day! 

Topic by GoChaca    |  last reply

How can I make cheap honeycomb core boat hulls

I saw a 'How It's Made' episode where they revealed how to make honeycomb core simply by making a paper accordion, expanding it, dipping it in resin then sawing it into cores. I WANT TO DO THAT! They said they used a thermoplastic paper as well as a heat-activated glue. But why couldn't I use a cheaper more readily available material? Does the resin provide ALL the structural strength, or does the thermoplastic paper itself provide the strength? I would assume it's like fiberglass, whereby after it's infused with resin it's super tough... but the fiberglass itself provides strength too... What kind of material could I use for this? Straight up craft paper & elmer's glue? After the cores are cured and cut, I'll sandwich them between various layers of either wood laminate, plastics, fiberglass, or carbon fiber. Thanks!

Question by jmlidea    |  last reply

How can I make a biodegradable adhesive in a paintball-like form-factor that's durable but would break if thrown.

Scenario: you're riding your bike. A car cuts you off. You have a little hopper full of these balls and have the presence of mind to get one out and throw it at the car. It sticks to the car. When the driver gets home, he sees it. Inside of the clear adhesive is a laminated piece of paper or something durable with a link written on it. The driver goes to the website and reads instructions about how to be a better bike-friendly driver. They wash the adhesive off with no damage done to the car. They become more conscientious drivers.

Question by pyaranderson    |  last reply

What is a good adhesive for draughtsman's mylar?

I want to make a smooth drawing surface to place on a dining room table. The material I have on hand is used mylar sheets from an engineering shop, about the thickness of paper. I'd like to cut the sheets down to quarter-size or so and laminate several thicknesses together to make a semi-rigid surface.  I've tried several adhesives I have on hand, and the one that works best is Elmer's Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive, but even that doesn't stick very well. So, what's the best option to glue this stuff together, keeping in mind that I don't want anything thick that will distort the sheets or create a lot of bubbles?

Question by yoyology    |  last reply

What feature makes your Work/Craft Table perfect?

We're planning to site build a craft/work table in our downstairs semi-basement space. Can you take a look at your (Non-dining table!) work table and let me know what I should add to the following list, or take into account generally? Taking into account the features I can foresee we need, I find the following desirable: Entire table surface should be something less than 48x96, so it fits in space allotted and can be made from sheet of plywood. A work surface approximately 34" high. This allows you to sit at the table or work standing up, without lower back pain from bending over excessively. A Light table feature in a corner of the table, illuminated from below to allow tracing and viewing of slides, other transparent media. An electrical receptacle in the top or edge of the table, for soldering gun, small fan, other uses that require juice while avoiding extension cord madness. A laminated top. A holder for a roll of 36" white butcher paper under one end. ~ an opening to an undermounted trashbin for easy cleaning I'm planning to pick up some Ikea storage or tool box shelves for under table storage. Thanks in advance for any and all helpful suggestions... Chris

Topic by cpeterkelly    |  last reply

What's your Science Fair project?

So, this is how our science fair project for the elementary school science fair turned out. Everyone should be encouraged at a young age to have an interest in science. As they say, "If you ain't having fun in science(or any other subject), you ain't!" This was crafted from paper mache(monocoque nose shell over a cardboard superstructure), laminated cardboard eyeglass frame, and homemade science fair display board.We thought about everyone wanting to touch the display so we put black yarn in the open nostrils below to simulate nose hair if someone decided to pick this nose. We couldn't add slime. Gross-out factor is high in the fun quotient. Remember, you can pick your friends; you can pick your nose; but you can't pick your friend's nose... It would be great if we could see what everyone else worked on. Of course we need ideas to top this one for next year's project! Edit 5/20/08Yay! Caitlin was co-winner for first place in the Fourth Grade Science Fair at school. The other girl won for testing to see if different strengths of Listerine actually helped kill germs in the mouth by doing swabs and cultures. Congrats to the young ones.

Topic by caitlinsdad    |  last reply

(newsletter) 6 Cent Knife, Pirate Cannon Game, 3D Sewing...

Sep 11, 2008 Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; }"/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup1","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); } Welcome back! The Forbes Fabergé-Style Egg Contest has launched! Make an extravagantly decorated egg, win a cool prize, and get your egg featured in the Forbes Galleries in New York City! The Craft Skills Contest is well underway - learn a new skill, and submit your own! The winners of the Book Contest are posted! Go see the 75 winners that will be featured in the upcoming Instructables book! Live near San Francisco or planning a trip? Stop by for one of our build nights and make something cool in our office! September 18: Mouse mouse; October 2: Intro to Chainmail. RSVP required - just PM Canida.Upcoming... Get ready for the biggest and best Halloween contest ever! October will be here soon, so start working on an elaborate costume and creepy decorations! Don't forget, anything posted since the close of last year's contest is eligible. Repair columns that were built in 1861 by drewgrey Build Your Own Pedicab by liseman Recycle Laminate Floor Planks by mrsnap1 Hot Glue LED Diffusion by depotdevoid See all 75 Winners! Make a Steampunk Headset by garagemonkeysan Sew a perfect 3-D corner on a cube by mdhaworth Make a Passive Network Tap by joe Make a 6 cent Pocket Knife by iMac LED tilt light box by seligtobiason Pirate Ship and Cannon Game by rickgyver Simple Sonotube Food Dehydrator by stringstretcher Weave medieval cords for bracelets by Kiteman 10 Great Lamp Instructablesto Light Up Your Life Build a Little Row Boat with Plywood by Pornostache Simple Paper Flowers by Poe-tate-o Make a Book Lamp by Goombex SuperSquid - battery charger splitter by eBu Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; }"/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup2","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); }

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply

Be aware of the new LED light-door knocking scam!

It might just be a local thing for now here in AU but history shows a good scam often is picked up globally...The topic of the scam is a FREE upgrade of your old incandescent lights to modern and cost efficient LED lights.Down here we have these government sponsored and energy related initiatives for home owners and landlords on a more or less regular base.Sometimes it is solar cells, then solar hot water systems or better insulation, now we again have LED lights as last time not everyone took the offer.The offical way to benefit is to apply for it, usually a quick online process.After that a certified guy or girl makes an appointment and replaces the number of lights you specified.But to address more people and get around landlords door knockers are also used.These offcial guys provide you with some flyers highlighting the program, details about the process and so on.And if you are interested sign you up on a list for your replacement.It means you don't sign anything, you just confirm your ID and end on a list.A a week or two later you see a bunch of students running with little ladders and boxes of lightbulbs knocking on doors.So far so good and sometimes you even get older people replacing the bulbs for free.You can quite easy identify the official guys down here as the display ID tags with picture and those tags not just look professional but also contain all vital info and signs that correspond to the official government initiative.The scammers jumping on the money train however show a slightly different approach.Usually students with good language and promotional skills come in a nice dress and knock on your door.They come with a more less well made copy of the government flyer, usually not in the right format and not on nice, glossy paper.They also usually only show you a badge after you ask then to but won't follow the official code and have it displayed on the dress.Said badge, in my case, was of bad quality and was just an ink jet print laminated in bulk and cut straight, not even with the standard rounded edges...I played along anyway and showed interest, so I was asked if it is ok to have a quick look to check how many lights are required.Keep in mind here that the official guys won't need that info - they take this info by the actual amount of lights the students replace later on!I told the guy I only need 6 lights as the rest was already replaced by myself.Needless to say he insisted stating that he needs to confrim the amount as a requirement for the free replacment because the installer needs to know how many light are required...You would expect now to see someone walking through your house with the head tilted to the ceiling....2 minutes, maybe three...It took almost 10 minutes, for each light he filled a bit out on his form.Like lvining room, 3 lights, ladder required, toilet, one light, cover needs to be removed.....This time was used to get an impression of what is visibly available in the rooms...Once done the nice guy wanted me to sign his now filled out form and asked for my name so he can put it in the form.Don't know why I felt this urgent need but I asked nicely if I could actually have a quick read of the form before I sign.Reluctantly he agreed and handed my the form.What I spotted right away was that it was two pages that were not connected in any way, like with a stapler, not numbered either.The first page had all the details of my lights and requirements plus some not really clear looking government inignias.Like what you would end up with if you embed in a word document from a web page.Low quality instead of coming from a proper and official print shop.Page two then only needed my name, address and signature under the long list of fineprints.I did not even have to read it all to know it indeed is a bdly made scam.The FREE LED lights are still free, but each one comes with an installation fee of $35.This fee covers checking the fittings and light switches and if required their replacement at the costs of the occupant plus of course the disposal of the old lights.The offcial cooling off period for this type of contract is honored though.Well, that is until you read it all and double check the first page.14 days are granted for this officially and in the contract I was supposed to sign.With the exception that I automatically agree to have the replacement done at the convinience of the installer.Also added was a clause that states the contract is binding and the payment is required within 7 days once the lights are replaced.Page 1 though already had next Friday listed for the replacements of my lights....Means my cooling off period is reduced to 7 days....To cancel the contract I would have to send it in writing and with confirmation.And the arrival needs to be confirmed at least 48 hours prior to the installation date so the installer can shedule accordingly.Basically means I have to send this cancellation letter the same day I sign the contract to have any chance at all to avoid paying at least $35 per LED light.Needless to say I refused to provide my name and did not sign despite all well meant attempts to convince me otherwise.And although I can neither deny nor confirm to have made a specific phone call, some cop car picked the guy up shortly after when he was knocking on another door further down the street...Be aware if some really nice guy or girl offers you a FREE service after you opened your door!Be suspicious if they "require" entry to confirm or check certain things!It is quite possible this requirement is only to check for valuables!Do the smart thing and take what they offer in paperwork and ask them to come back a few days later so you can have a good read.Don't let them pressure you in any way!!!If it is a free service then you don't need to rush things and any official door knocker will be happy to give you the parperwork and tell you if you want to have it done you can simple use the details on the info material and register yourself online.And if you go that route you will see an official government portal for it.Even if a scammer goes as far as creating a website for the scam it won't provide you any of the standards you expect from your government.If you really decide to sign something on the spot or to provide personal details then at least read all the fineprints and everything else on all the documents!That means unless you know legal talk that you should have someone check it for you!

Topic by Downunder35m  

Cloning the famous ARA-2000 antenna for SDR use

Several years ago the company behind the original ARA-2000 antenna, Dressler Hochfrequenztechnik, closed.The ARA series of antennas, like many other products by this company never got a patent, instead it was trusted that no one would bother to replicate it.A bit like the Swiss Army knife, many tried to copy it, none really managed to match the original quality.There is quite a bit of hacking still going on for this antenna, most projects though seem to be abandoned at the time of writing this.I am currently trying to figure out how to create an entire clone that everyone who knows how to properly use a soldering iron can build.There is a lot to consider here...The active element is of quite unusual shape and needs to be wound around a cylinder of a pretty accurate diameter.My initial tests showed that for example aluminium foil with some unavoidable wrinkles already has a negative effect.And a change in diameter of just 2mm means the entire antenna only performs badly for the entire band.This part is thankfully already solved to my satisfaction using thin copper sheets and some stiff plastic sheet.Quite a pain though is the MMIC part - the amplifier that makes the antenna active.There is a ton of MMIC blobs available, either solo or as a ready to go amplifier.Downside is that without really knowing any characteristics of the original is comes down to guesswork.And as most of the cheap SDR dongles won't provide a BIAS TEE I will opt for an external power supply for the amp.I might provide the option for a inline use a bit later though.Why clone the ARA-2000 antenna?For starters you need to forget the mythical stories you might have heard about this antenna."Picks up even the weakest signals!", "Totally linear over the entire bandwidth" and so on...Without the amplifier the antenna is actually not even average in therms of reception performance.My initial tests with a network analyser showed that the anteanna actually is behaving really weird (without the amp!).Although this first bit needs further testing, it seems that most, if not all of the work in the 1.5-2GHz range is done by just the straight connecting strup going from the amp, or in my test case the coax, to the wrapped antenna part.For anything in the more interesting frequency bands it seems that the antenna is not using anything like a discone, whip or ground plane antenna.Instead the 3rd harmonics of a given frequency provide the max power output from the antenna but it arrives at the cable at the right frequency.Especially in the lower frequencies, below 200MHz there is also quite some phase shifting happening.As a passive antenna it seems to be almost impossible to find a frequency to transmit on without using some matching trickery first.But when it comes to size or looks, the ARA outperforms everything you can think of unless you want to constantly adjust the length of your whip antenna.And if you check what is available in real (user) data in terms of noise and signal quality than most other antenna types are far worse.The design provides a wide frequency range with very little noise, almost like a build in filter.Considering that mostly harmonic frequencies are used not that surprising.Getting hooked on SDR means you start little and then you want more and more.Unless you really need the low frequency HAM bands below 50MHz the ARA is a good choice that just makes sense.What is quite surprising in the original is the total lack of protection for strong signals.Sure, we might never need a lightning arrestor because all is enclosed in plastic and has little attraction lightning, but someone hittiing the transmit button close by....I will have to do some more checks to determine whether or not more protection is required.What is the problem with amplifier?For starters, no one really knows what was used in the original - they all just guess based on how well the real design matches some datasheet.Means whatever was used might as well be a custom made solution.I checked a few datasheets for MMIC amps but could not find any useful reference to the handling of things like negative gain, phase shift or a constantly changing impedance.Some however state that a 50 or 75Ohm signal is provided at the output.If I interpret that correctly than those MMIC's not only amplify but also do some matching.In most cases you won't need an amp that works outside what the antenna can provide.Problem is that I don't like regretting things later on ;)So IMHO it would be best to use a wideband MMIC covering all from about 1MHz to a few GHz.Additional filters can then cut off what is not required or where the antenna starts to fail.What is clear by the original design is that the cable shield acts as a ground and most likely also has a balancing function.It would make sense to add a ferrite trap close the the receiver to filter out what the cable might otherwise mess up.Can the frequency range be lowered to get even the low HAM bands?The answer is YES and NO.It is not a big problem to extend the cone shape and then hope to come much lower.Issue with this is the helical, long periodic design.As basically only the 3rd harmonics are used for all interesting frequencies any ARA type antenna going much lower would end to be really long.You can't just make it longer!One thing is to have a full and even number of turns.The original only had two, three turns is bad, four means the entire antenna is slightly longer than your average downpipe for your roof gutters....Other, seemingly logical alternative would be to stick to two turns and to increase the diameter.Apart from the size problem here we would also change the shape of the foil quite a bit and I have not done enough tests with that to provide a conclusion.Are there alternative design options?As it turns out copper pipe is available in 80mm diameters for the use in chimneys as well as downpipes.With a proper machine it would be pretty straight forward to remove what is not used as the active element.Milling a pipe or rod is these days a common thing in many good workshops.But on a hobby level and low budget....One of the best options for cheap test antennas of this design is to use tinting foil - the cheapest you can find ;)Just read the lable and make sure it does not use a metalised film.If it has no UV protection and no tinit at all it is best but hard to find.A little less stiff is the stuff to cover school books or cupboards.Vinyl is bad though!If you look for copper foil in the cheap online places you mostly find the suff used for shielding in rolls of 200x1000mm.Unless you have a really sharp knife or really suitable sissors this stuff is a pain to cut as the glue tends to stick very good to whatever you use to cut through.Don't ever try one of these blade type cutters for paper and pictures unless you put a slight oil film on all cutting surfaces first....In some hobby shops you can get copper foil without any glue in different thicknesses - this stuff is the prefered option.Not only cheaper than the China rolls with glue but you invest a bit more and get a thickness that does not wrinkle right away when working with it ;)Cheap, steel downpipe and cutters or nibblers?I though about and I tried - and I failed LOLUnless you use a pin type nibbler and custom made rig the result is quite bad - at least mine was.What works though is to use thin aluminium sheets, cut them and then bend them around a suitable template.But I ran out of old laminated sings to salvage and the duble sided ones I have left are too much work.What comes next?Well, I have a few rolls of copper sheets coming next month, the cheap glue covered type.This time however I will leave the plastic cover on and use tape to secure the foil to the pipe.A two-stage amp with external power supply is coming too so I can do some more tests in this area.For the time being I will opt for some 3D printed end caps but with a bit of luck can find something easier next time I have time to waste in the hardware store.Excluding cable and a cheap USB or 12V power supply, the current costs of building the anteanna are around $40US.About half of that if you don't cennectors and attach the coax directly.Another experiement I am working on is to use copper tape, 12mm wide, to create the antenna in a semi-fractal style.I am hoping this will provide a high enough gain so the antenna is usable without an amplifier.Right now the biggest issue is to find a really SDR suitable way to deal with strong signal close by.I will keep you update here when I start with the new antenna and upload some pics along the was of building it.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply