Search for laminated plastic in Topics


Source of plastic bags

I'm planning to use laminated plastic bags to skin a boat but I need a few hundred or thousand bags.  Where does one get that many bags?

Topic by AlbinoMoose308    |  last reply


How do I separate the laminate layers in an old bullet resistant window? There is no glass layer,

It is all plastics. I want to harvest the two inner 1/2 inch layers of Lexan for projects. The two outer layers appear to be 3/16ths UV resistant plexi. The center membrane is killing me. I have tried mild heat and brute strength.

Question by JimFlo    |  last reply


Will laminated poster handle extreme temperatures?

Need to know if this poster will last in extrem temperature, if I laminate it (with clear plastic in one of those machines at copy store). Poster will be protected from direct sun and water, but will be subject to winter and summer temperatures in northern Illinois (negative 15 to 105 degrees). Thoughts? Or should I use a glue and no laminate?

Question by Doowhop  


Melting Issue in LDPE Extrusion with Black Masterbatch

We're facing this situation with black masterbatch for LDPE in extrusion lamination process where some of the masterbatch granules are not properly melted and mixed with LDPE, which creates a lot of defects in the lamination. I've tried a number of Black masterbatch samples from different companies and in different prices and the problem still exists. Increasing the extruder temperatures doesn't seem to be helping either. This happens only with Black masterbatch and all other masterbatch colors melt and blend in with LDPE to give an uniform color strength. Appreciate your professional advice on preventing this issue..Thank you!

Question by hasitha.saveco    |  last reply


is there any way to glue laminated paper to itself?

I have some paper pieces that I laminated with a laminating machine - so it has that smooth tough glossy plastic shielding all around it.  I want to glue the laminated paper together and nothing seems to hold so far.   I have tried roughening up the parts to be glued with a file and super glue - no good.  I've tried "Tacky Glue" - nothing.    I also tried heating up the surfaces to be glued with a hot knife in an attempt to roughen it up and then glue it - not working. I thought heat might work, but I don't have a way to administer the heat to the areas without causing damage Staples work, but they mar the aesthetics - and in some places I don't have a long enough stapler to reach where I need the connection. Thanks for any info -foo

Question by foobear    |  last reply


What is a good adhesive for draughtsman's mylar?

I want to make a smooth drawing surface to place on a dining room table. The material I have on hand is used mylar sheets from an engineering shop, about the thickness of paper. I'd like to cut the sheets down to quarter-size or so and laminate several thicknesses together to make a semi-rigid surface.  I've tried several adhesives I have on hand, and the one that works best is Elmer's Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive, but even that doesn't stick very well. So, what's the best option to glue this stuff together, keeping in mind that I don't want anything thick that will distort the sheets or create a lot of bubbles?

Question by yoyology    |  last reply


How to remove the copper layer/film from a PCB ???

Hi ... do you know, how to remove the copper layer from a PCB - by not using any ETCHING METHOD. Just to separate the cooper from plastic/f.glass ??? Do you think, that HEAT would do the trick ??? Like when you hold soldering tip to long on a pcb, it can happen that the cooper film become loose from the PCB. Thank you in advance. Zholy P.S. : The reason, why I asked = I was thinking of creating/extending a "ribbon cable" : 1. remove the copper film 2. stick it to the foil, that you can laminate 3. put the "ribbon cable pattern" on the film and ETCH it. 4. laminate it ... and cut the just the top of the laminate foil at the ends, so you have clear cooper for the contacts, but the bottom laminate film as a support.

Question by zholy    |  last reply


Paper glue that can withstand outdoor temps from -15 to +100 degrees F.

I have an interpretive pavilion and the thing in question is out of the sun and water, however it gets full temperature range for Northern Illinois. From as low as negative 15 up to 100 degree Fahrenheit.I have a poster to attach to poster board and then it sits against plexiglass. The glue squares that are spongy plastic didn't hold photos to plastic last year, so I am trying to have photos printed on poster and need to make it stiff by either laminating or gluing to poster board (paper).What glue can handle such extreme temperatures during the year and hold paper to paper essentially?

Question by Doowhop  


How Do I Move an Instructable From Crafts to Woodworking

When looking for a place to publish my instructable about "Making Unique, Light Catching Laminated Wood, Plastic and Copper Ornamental Turnings," I put it under crafts. The thought of looking for the subtopic "woodwork" didn't occur to me at the time I posted it, and I was focused on a glitch in the instructables web site. The item does belong under woodworking, since it was a wood-acrylic ornament turned on a wood lathe.How do I move it. Do I have to destroy the one under crafts and start all over pulling photos in?

Question by KellyCraig  


Can you suggest some other materials for Candy Wrapper Bags? Answered

Rolls of candy wrap plastic/cellophane don't seem to be available in Australia.( I don't know what to call them")   I have made several so called candy wrapper bags using paper and tape so I want to find a "paper" that is already laminated or weather/waterproofed as my arthritic hands are not suited to all the cutting and sticking of paper and sticky tape. My current bag takes over 300 pieces so reducing some of the steps will make it more manageable. Any ideas will be greatly welcomed. Thank you.

Question by craftyv    |  last reply


What adhesive to use for gluing zip lock bag material to fabric?

I have a project in mind which I want to line with a food safe material. After some consideration It boiled down to just using pieces cut from a zip lock bag and cotton material. I'm going to hem the 2 materials together but don't want the zip lock material slouching and separating from the cotton material in the middle. If I used a spray adhesive for fabric to adhere the zip lock material flat to the cotton will the adhesive show through the zip lock liner? I want it to look clear so cotton material shows through the plastic like laminated cotton but don't want to use that material. Any ideas or product suggestions? Thanks.

Question by lexpres61    |  last reply


painting an old table top?

Hello people :) ,  im in the process of painting a table top., ive sanded the top (Lightly) and put an all purpose primer on top, but ive run into a spot of bother, let me explain further. the table top i have detaches from the legs, which bis handy, now looking underneath it, it is painted black, but i can see that it is real wood underneath (i can see and feel grain and knots) BUT on top it seems to be a different wood or covered in something different on top of this, there and rectangles of veneer - which the primer seems to adhere to ok, but the darker part of it dose not seem to pass the fingernail test, so it may  not be the right primer, but im stumped as to what primer i would need, sanding didn't seems to make much of a difference to the dark wood barely dull it really, and im not sure its laminate or some sort of plastic... ive added a picture of the table

Question by aharbinson    |  last reply


How can I make cheap honeycomb core boat hulls

I saw a 'How It's Made' episode where they revealed how to make honeycomb core simply by making a paper accordion, expanding it, dipping it in resin then sawing it into cores. I WANT TO DO THAT! They said they used a thermoplastic paper as well as a heat-activated glue. But why couldn't I use a cheaper more readily available material? Does the resin provide ALL the structural strength, or does the thermoplastic paper itself provide the strength? I would assume it's like fiberglass, whereby after it's infused with resin it's super tough... but the fiberglass itself provides strength too... What kind of material could I use for this? Straight up craft paper & elmer's glue? After the cores are cured and cut, I'll sandwich them between various layers of either wood laminate, plastics, fiberglass, or carbon fiber. Thanks!

Question by jmlidea    |  last reply


Cloning the famous ARA-2000 antenna for SDR use

Several years ago the company behind the original ARA-2000 antenna, Dressler Hochfrequenztechnik, closed.The ARA series of antennas, like many other products by this company never got a patent, instead it was trusted that no one would bother to replicate it.A bit like the Swiss Army knife, many tried to copy it, none really managed to match the original quality.There is quite a bit of hacking still going on for this antenna, most projects though seem to be abandoned at the time of writing this.I am currently trying to figure out how to create an entire clone that everyone who knows how to properly use a soldering iron can build.There is a lot to consider here...The active element is of quite unusual shape and needs to be wound around a cylinder of a pretty accurate diameter.My initial tests showed that for example aluminium foil with some unavoidable wrinkles already has a negative effect.And a change in diameter of just 2mm means the entire antenna only performs badly for the entire band.This part is thankfully already solved to my satisfaction using thin copper sheets and some stiff plastic sheet.Quite a pain though is the MMIC part - the amplifier that makes the antenna active.There is a ton of MMIC blobs available, either solo or as a ready to go amplifier.Downside is that without really knowing any characteristics of the original is comes down to guesswork.And as most of the cheap SDR dongles won't provide a BIAS TEE I will opt for an external power supply for the amp.I might provide the option for a inline use a bit later though.Why clone the ARA-2000 antenna?For starters you need to forget the mythical stories you might have heard about this antenna."Picks up even the weakest signals!", "Totally linear over the entire bandwidth" and so on...Without the amplifier the antenna is actually not even average in therms of reception performance.My initial tests with a network analyser showed that the anteanna actually is behaving really weird (without the amp!).Although this first bit needs further testing, it seems that most, if not all of the work in the 1.5-2GHz range is done by just the straight connecting strup going from the amp, or in my test case the coax, to the wrapped antenna part.For anything in the more interesting frequency bands it seems that the antenna is not using anything like a discone, whip or ground plane antenna.Instead the 3rd harmonics of a given frequency provide the max power output from the antenna but it arrives at the cable at the right frequency.Especially in the lower frequencies, below 200MHz there is also quite some phase shifting happening.As a passive antenna it seems to be almost impossible to find a frequency to transmit on without using some matching trickery first.But when it comes to size or looks, the ARA outperforms everything you can think of unless you want to constantly adjust the length of your whip antenna.And if you check what is available in real (user) data in terms of noise and signal quality than most other antenna types are far worse.The design provides a wide frequency range with very little noise, almost like a build in filter.Considering that mostly harmonic frequencies are used not that surprising.Getting hooked on SDR means you start little and then you want more and more.Unless you really need the low frequency HAM bands below 50MHz the ARA is a good choice that just makes sense.What is quite surprising in the original is the total lack of protection for strong signals.Sure, we might never need a lightning arrestor because all is enclosed in plastic and has little attraction lightning, but someone hittiing the transmit button close by....I will have to do some more checks to determine whether or not more protection is required.What is the problem with amplifier?For starters, no one really knows what was used in the original - they all just guess based on how well the real design matches some datasheet.Means whatever was used might as well be a custom made solution.I checked a few datasheets for MMIC amps but could not find any useful reference to the handling of things like negative gain, phase shift or a constantly changing impedance.Some however state that a 50 or 75Ohm signal is provided at the output.If I interpret that correctly than those MMIC's not only amplify but also do some matching.In most cases you won't need an amp that works outside what the antenna can provide.Problem is that I don't like regretting things later on ;)So IMHO it would be best to use a wideband MMIC covering all from about 1MHz to a few GHz.Additional filters can then cut off what is not required or where the antenna starts to fail.What is clear by the original design is that the cable shield acts as a ground and most likely also has a balancing function.It would make sense to add a ferrite trap close the the receiver to filter out what the cable might otherwise mess up.Can the frequency range be lowered to get even the low HAM bands?The answer is YES and NO.It is not a big problem to extend the cone shape and then hope to come much lower.Issue with this is the helical, long periodic design.As basically only the 3rd harmonics are used for all interesting frequencies any ARA type antenna going much lower would end to be really long.You can't just make it longer!One thing is to have a full and even number of turns.The original only had two, three turns is bad, four means the entire antenna is slightly longer than your average downpipe for your roof gutters....Other, seemingly logical alternative would be to stick to two turns and to increase the diameter.Apart from the size problem here we would also change the shape of the foil quite a bit and I have not done enough tests with that to provide a conclusion.Are there alternative design options?As it turns out copper pipe is available in 80mm diameters for the use in chimneys as well as downpipes.With a proper machine it would be pretty straight forward to remove what is not used as the active element.Milling a pipe or rod is these days a common thing in many good workshops.But on a hobby level and low budget....One of the best options for cheap test antennas of this design is to use tinting foil - the cheapest you can find ;)Just read the lable and make sure it does not use a metalised film.If it has no UV protection and no tinit at all it is best but hard to find.A little less stiff is the stuff to cover school books or cupboards.Vinyl is bad though!If you look for copper foil in the cheap online places you mostly find the suff used for shielding in rolls of 200x1000mm.Unless you have a really sharp knife or really suitable sissors this stuff is a pain to cut as the glue tends to stick very good to whatever you use to cut through.Don't ever try one of these blade type cutters for paper and pictures unless you put a slight oil film on all cutting surfaces first....In some hobby shops you can get copper foil without any glue in different thicknesses - this stuff is the prefered option.Not only cheaper than the China rolls with glue but you invest a bit more and get a thickness that does not wrinkle right away when working with it ;)Cheap, steel downpipe and cutters or nibblers?I though about and I tried - and I failed LOLUnless you use a pin type nibbler and custom made rig the result is quite bad - at least mine was.What works though is to use thin aluminium sheets, cut them and then bend them around a suitable template.But I ran out of old laminated sings to salvage and the duble sided ones I have left are too much work.What comes next?Well, I have a few rolls of copper sheets coming next month, the cheap glue covered type.This time however I will leave the plastic cover on and use tape to secure the foil to the pipe.A two-stage amp with external power supply is coming too so I can do some more tests in this area.For the time being I will opt for some 3D printed end caps but with a bit of luck can find something easier next time I have time to waste in the hardware store.Excluding cable and a cheap USB or 12V power supply, the current costs of building the anteanna are around $40US.About half of that if you don't cennectors and attach the coax directly.Another experiement I am working on is to use copper tape, 12mm wide, to create the antenna in a semi-fractal style.I am hoping this will provide a high enough gain so the antenna is usable without an amplifier.Right now the biggest issue is to find a really SDR suitable way to deal with strong signal close by.I will keep you update here when I start with the new antenna and upload some pics along the was of building it.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply