Search for laser trip wire in Topics

I need to build a laser security system. I already have an alarm that works by shorting two wires with a trigger switch there by activating the alarm. I want to activate this alarm with a laser trip wire. I don't want to get a whole security system I just want to get the laser emitter and the receiver. I can't find this part any where. If somebody could help me find this part I would apreciate it. Thanks.

Https://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Trip-Mine/ I find this project absolutley great but I want to know if there is a way to make it so when the alarm is triggered i can be notified without having to look at the LED on the circuit board. so for example i have the laster and circuit board at the enterance to my house, and im in the basement 1 floor under, is there a way to make it so a light or buzzer is triggered where i am as opposed to upstairs?

Hi I want to use a laser and a ldr to switch on a relay using arduino once the laser is tripped the relay turns on and once it trips again its off  could some one help me with the code and schematics i want to use pin 9 as in1 on the relay  thanks a ton in advance

I’ve seen several configurations of a laser perimeter alarm design, however, I don’t want a piezoelectric buzzer going off. I want a message or alert sent to my smartphone. Bluetooth tech I feel would have distance limitations so I’m learning more towards a secure WiFi link. Any ideas along this line or if someone has already done this and I couldn’t find it?!

Hey Guys, I recently needed a laser for a project and as the electronics store had none i thought why non to extract one from a cheap laser diode. So....i got a laser peeled back the casing and got it. But the problem is that it doesnt work. Most probably because one of the contacts doesnt seem to be attached to the laser. Pics have been uploaded. Not that the lower contact doesnt seem to be connected with the rest (p.s it had a spring which used to come in contact with the underside of the button cells. I was wondering if any of you could help me.

How do I make a trip wire? Additionally, how do i set up the trip wire to alert me from a remote location so that the intruder will not be alerted but I will 

I have seen a few different laser trip wire instructables here, but they are usually for triggering a nerf device or other projectiles. I am interested in a laser trip wire that would count objects as the laser beam was broken, and display the count on an LED screen. I was wondering if someone would be kind enough to create an instructable for this. This has real world applications, such as counting cases moving along a conveyor line. I would like to use an arduino with a shield for this, and be able to plug it into an outlet. I am a complete Noob when it comes to arduinos. This is a project that I would like to get my feet wet with. I learn best by working on something that interest me. I know it isn't as much fun as a nerf Gatling gun, but it would get plenty of use every day.

Hello. I need help with charging a capacitor bank I have. It consists of 10 capacitors: 4 4700uf capacitors and 6 6800uf capacitors. All are wired in parallel. I have been charging them with 110AC rectified to DC. The only problem is that whenever I flip the switch to start charging, it trips our shop's 20A breaker and you have to flip it back to start charging again. It trips our breaker every time and dims the lights making my dad angry. So I need some tips on what wattage resistor i need to use to keep from tripping the breaker. I experimented with a 10W resistor and that was way too much resistance. I am not allowed to experiment anymore until someone credible can tell me what to do. Thanks for your help.

Layout of trip wires for 3 trail alarm with lights. About 250' range from panel no noise just lights on trip to panel.     Thanks Alan

I am in need of help and I am going insane with this. Question is about a simple circuit with IR sensor/tripwire part and 555 timer which would keep the alarm buzzer on for thee seconds. No fancy stuff like arduino or relay or anything like that just LEDs, resistors, transistors, 555 timer and a buzzer. I got the IR sensor part to work and the timer part to work, but when I try to combine them everything goes haywire and nothing works. I have IR photo transistor TOPS-030 as the IR sensor. I am really starting to lose my mind with this and it has been three years since I started doing this project. I got diagnosed with undefined neurological disease (probably MS-disease) which has slowed my down even more. I worked on the circuit every now and then not every night during the past three years =) I know this circuit is simple and it can be put together in a brief moment the thing that is driving me crazy is the fact that when I got something working then everything goes haywire. Doing very basic beginner instructable describing this circuit would be very helpful even to others not just me. It would also keep the knowledge of using discreet logic up in these micro controller days.

Hey guys! After I saw this vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL1XNm3UgPc I wanted to make something like this for myself. I am a beginner with electronics, so can someone help me with make a circuit for me??? -LukeD

I need a schematic of a circuit that provides a 12v output when a laser is picked up on a phototransistor.  Essentially working in reverse of the laser trip wire alarm.

Hey y’all, I have been searching for a way to create a laser trip wire that doesn’t involve two units that line up to have the beam broken. Is there a way to emit a laser that triggers LEDs or buzzers just when the laser is broken, all coming from one unit? I’ve read about the LED/IR type projections and that’s the closest I’ve found. Any help is welcome. Thanks!

Hello. I need help with charging a capacitor bank I have. It consists of 10 capacitors: 4 4700uf capacitors and 6 6800uf capacitors. All are wired in parallel. I have been charging them with 110AC rectified to DC. The only problem is that whenever I flip the switch to start charging, it trips our shop's 20A breaker and you have to flip it back to start charging again. It trips our breaker every time and dims the lights making my dad angry. So I need some tips on what wattage resistor i need to use to keep from tripping the breaker. I experimented with a 10W resistor and that was way too much resistance. I am not allowed to experiment anymore until someone credible can tell me what to do. Thanks for your help.

I really need the circuit diagram for the laser trip mine because we're going to have it as our project. can you help me??? i don't have much knowledge about electronics, i'm just currently learning about it now. please.. thanks a lot...

I was making a laser trip wire, but I was looking online for diodes which I found, by which one would be best to get, I dont care for the color, in fact I am better off with red and the intensity can not put off heat to harm anyone. Anyone have any laser diode recommendations or have a site that I can buy them from?

Hi all I have been looking all over the internet for the answer but got stuck I want to make a simple circuit to set up, so that when someone walks in between an IR beam or laser, and  a sensor, it triggers another circuit... Is there a useful instructable or a circuit diagram... I am really stuck.. please help Will

Does anybody know how to make a good tripwire trap, or like how to rig one up?

So im making a  laser spirograph (https://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Spirograph/#step1) and i just got my laser diode to come out of its case, and i was wondering where i should solder the red and black wire as it does not look like the one in the 'ible. the laser diode looks like this one here http://10mW 532nm Green Laser Module (3V 11.9mm)  (i would take a pic of the diode but i cant find my camera!) the only difference in the diodes is that mine has a black button instead of the red. Oh and one more thing is that it has to bypass the use of the button. Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!

I bought a laser engraver from Amazon and it is a Luyeen brand. It's straight from China and honestly, it's a POS. When I put it together, which took 24 hours, I couldn't get the laser to work. I looked on line and I found a forum that had someone that bought the same thing as I did. The wires that were on the connector were backwards. I took the cable to a PC Repair place and they fixed it. Now, the laser has not worked and I contacted the manufacturer and they ASKED ME to have it repaired and they will also give me $100 to compensate me for my time. ARE YOU FREAKIN KIDDING ME? NO!I am returning the whole thing to Amazon for a complete refund. So, here's the question, Folks! Where can I find an AMERICAN made laser engraver that isn't going to empty my wallet and I can afford. I am tired of Chinese places advertising GOOD products and when they arrive, they don't work, they are not as advertised and the directions are worthless. I REALLY would like to get an engraver but I will NOT be buying off of Amazon that deals with foreign manufacturers that sell substandard equipment. Can someone give me some place where I can look?Thanks, David Monaghandavidmonaghan58@yahoo.com

Hi ladies and gentlemen! I am looking to build a proof of concept, then a prototype on a laser detector array. I need a setup that will pick up a laser beam directed at it from up to 200M away. My idea was to use an array of photovoltaic cells hooked up in pattern. When a laser hit one or more of the cells the current would trip a relay that passed the current to a buzzer or alarm. My concern was that sunlight and ambient refection will cause false signals and trip the alarm. I am sure there is a way to set the system up so that the alarm only went off when there was a voltage spike in a single sensor, or put a variable resistor on it so that only light levels above ambient would set it off. The system will be deployed facing down towards the ground so direct sunlight should never hit the array. I would like to start off with a single photovoltaic cell to prove that the system works and then integrate the others to form the array. Thanks for the help!

I'm here again guys to ask you this question, will this circuit work? More Importantly, is the LDR placed correctly? 'cauz I'm having doubts on this circuit :S  And I'm going to make a PCB for it, and I'm too lazy to test it on a bread board (too lazy to solder wires on parts with big pins, e.g. DC Jack). If this circuit will not work I'm going to switch to relay laser alarm types. Just give me the answer please. Thanks :D 

Hi I was awarded second place in the lasers contest which is great but after filling in the prize delivery info I haven't received anything. I would like to know what's the procedure. I haven't gotten a confirmation or any prizes from you. Did you get my info? wires

I know nothing about current or voltage and I just want to know if there is a quick and dirty way to wire a laser diode to a power source without killing it. Thanks.

Is it possible, I am trying to do this so I can make a laser trip wire, but it turns off in the dark instead of in the light.

I have a theory that I would think should work, but opinions are good. If I was to get a powerful laser diode, like 300mw, and machine out a holding device for it to go into a CNC millers collet, then wired it up to a power supply, and put it in a CNC machine.... Would I have a half ass laser etcher? I would have to manually turn the laser on or off, and the feed would have to be really slow, but would I be at least able to engrave stuff?

I'm working on a Predator (as in the movie) style Laser sight for one of my Nerf guns using three laser pointers (or rather the lasers inside of them).  I want to use AA or AAA for the power source because button batteries are expensive and don't last.  The laser pointers each use 3 batteries at 1.5v a piece for a total of 4.5v.  Since AA and AAAs have the same voltage that isn't a problem.  The problem is that I want all three lights to come on at the same time with a press of a button, and the only way I know to do that would be to wire them to one power source.  I'm also a bit limited on space, so one power source would be ideal. So my question is this:  Do I need to increase the voltage in order to power all three lasers or will 4.5v be enough to power them without dimming? I have little experience in this field, so any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

I connected 6 fully built laser pointers (minus the battery compartment) in SERIES with alligator clips. They each draw around 3v and 300mA (they are those cheap 5mw green pointers). I connected the end leads to a 19.5vdc 4.5A laptop wall wart power supply. I taped all of the laser buttons into the ON position. Aannnd...   ...nothing happens. The lasers are fully functional when using batteries, yet when wired up in this way there is no light. What is wrong with this setup? Thanks EDIT: I can also garuntree that all connections are perfect, and there is pleanty of voltage and current coming from the wall wart.

bought a laser pointer that plugs into a 2nd gen iPod nano (hey it was $2), and since I don't own one, (3rd gen FTW) I took it apart. Now I've got some problems: a) How much power does an Ipod put out? I cant just hook this sucker up to a AA? I don't wish to power it through an iPod. b) The negative wire wasn't soldered, I think i know where it goes but I'd like to be sure All I know is it's a red laser pointer laser, and there wasn't any info on the packaging other than don't shine in your eye...

I need to wire a 2.2 volt laser diode and have no idea where to start. I'm cheap and don't want to buy a driver and would like to build one myself.

How do I know if I need laser googles for my laser? From what MW is it recommended to use laser safety googles? Are there goggles that fit specifically for a color of a laser? My laser is a 50MW Green laser Thanks in advance :) This is the laser: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12mm-10mw-30mw-50mw-100mw-200mw-532nm-green-dot-laser-module-driver-spring-wire/311028329241?hash=item486abbab19

Helping Pops out on this one... He's got a spare room with a small adjoining bathroom. The wiring breakdown on the fusebox indicates that these two rooms are wired as part of the same circuit on the main breaker. In the two rooms there are: 2 outlets, 1 GFI outlet, and 4 switches controlling 2 lights and 1 bathroom ceiling fan. In the last few months this room has been experiences some abnormalities in power: flickering lights, occasional outage, GFI tripped. The outages usually lasted less than an hour and would occur with or without any load and any time. GFI trips sometimes, but other lights will work on the circuit when it's just the GFI. Recently all power to this room has stopped. The main breaker never trips. With everything unplugged (including the ceiling fan) I checked the outlets in the room. Screwdriver voltage tester was used. The probe registers a 'charge' in the outlet and 'no power' on the return. Normal. However when any load (light, clock, tv) is applied all outlets instantly register a charge in both the positive and the return. Not normal. The breaker doesn't trip, resetting breaker or GFI doesn't work, and the positive and negative terminals of the outlets are both registering as charged. House is 10 years old with no previous wiring issues, in Canada. Can anyone tell me what's wrong? edit: January 24, 2011 Problem has been located and fixed. Closer inspection of the breaker panel revealed that the neutral was loose, and had started to melt the casing of the wire. The wire was clipped and spliced, and now things are back to normal. Thanks for everyone's input, best answer awarded!

I have a battery powered laser on top of a spinning disc. This laser runs out of battery fairly quickly, I need to make it last longer somehow. Could I wire the laser to multiple batteries to make it last longer? If i manage to find a mains powered laser then it spinning constantly wouldn't work as it would have a wire. I ideally need to find a way to power this laser (probably 2 lasers) for most of a day with something that fits on a fairly small spinning disc. Any ideas? Cheers

Is there a tool that's relatively cheap to buy, that I can use at home to cut clean shapes from acrylic, perspex, rubber, thin sheeted wood (any of the above)? I'm thinking of a similar finish (although obviously a bit less pristine) to that produced by a laser cutter. Thanks!

Hello. I need help with charging a capacitor bank I have. It consists of 10 capacitors: 4 4700uf capacitors and 6 6800uf capacitors. All are wired in parallel. I have been charging them with 110AC rectified to DC. The only problem is that whenever I flip the switch to start charging, it trips our shop's 20A breaker and you have to flip it back to start charging again. It trips our breaker every time and dims the lights making my dad angry. So I need some tips on what wattage resistor i need to use to keep from tripping the breaker. I experimented with a 10W resistor and that was way too much resistance. I am not allowed to experiment anymore until someone credible can tell me what to do. Thanks for your help.

It is with great pleasure that I announce the winner of the Laser Cutter Contest:Stuart.Mcfarlan for How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily)Be sure to check out Stuart.Mcfarlan's plans for the Laser Cutter.Congratulations to all the finalists who will receive a Laser-etched Instructables Leatherman Juice S2 and an Instructables t-shirt for their simply amazing work:crabfu for Steam Turbine Tankdave spencer for erupting Volcano Birthday CakeHonus for How to make a Green Lantern ring- including a glowing version!jabroutin for personal powerPlantjeffkobi for Retro Hi-Fi ProjectKasey for Compubeaver --> How to case-mod a beaver - in 29 easy steps!lkrasnow for Precision Puzzlemaking Primer -- Volume 1mikejedw for Pringles Wind Turbine (Pleech) - Version One mydian_nightshade forFurniture grade cocktail arcade cabinetmzed for Low-cost Spherical Speaker Array nemomatic for Giant Squid kinetic sculpture from found materialsorthonormal_basis_of_evil for EMP shopping cart lockertalbotron22 for DIY Kitty Crack: ultra-potent catnip extract turkey tek for Interactive Multitouch DisplayWe had planned to select 20 second place winners, but just couldn't narrow the field, so we're awarding 25 second place winners, who will receive Instructables t-shirts! They are:$30 High-Speed PCB Drill Press by lancandy$60 Laser Engraver / Cutter by cgoshBreath powered USB charger by jmengelBuild a Tetris DVD (or book) shelf by odecom5Capture the Ethereal Beauty of Everyday Objects Using Polarized Light. by Tool Using AnimalCO2 laser that cuts sheet metal by owhiteCosmic Light With LEDs Embedded in Resin by technoplastiqueDuck Cam Decoy by RoadstarElectromagnetic Floater by J_HodgieFine Silver (99.9% pure) Popcorn Pendant! by roughtyperHan Solo in carbonite chocolate bar! by FreakCitySFLaptop Converted to 2nd Monitor by punish3rMake a wall avoiding Robot! a collaboration led by Brandon121233Make Conductive Glue and Glue a Circuit by mikey77Make rope out of dead plants -- with no tools a collaboration led by phyzomeMod a toaster and have retro art toast for breakfast by 5VoltMotherboard PCB Bracelet by llama13Portable Water resistant LED Picnic Blanket with hard center serving surface! by pointcloudStart a Guerrilla Drive-in by plusbryanThe Ice Bulb by mandrakeThe Intimate Video Light/ Handheld photograpy light. by curve12The One, The Only COTTON CANDY MACHINE! by T3h_MuffinatorTheater Effects: Gunshot Wounds by TrumpetNeelUse a Vacuum cleaner to build your own Skateboard by gregorylavoieWire Scorpion by OniToraAll the winners should watch for a personal message from us for prize claiming instructions.With so many excellent entries, and with each of them being at the top of their game in some different aspect, the judging was extremely difficult. We had help juding from a large number of users including 5Volt, african_andy187, Albetcha, BobbyMike, CameronSS, canida, daenris, drinkmorecoffee, ewilhelm, fungus amungus, herrozerro, ian, imanalchemist, J_Hodgie, jamesh, jesse.hensel, jessyratfink, jmengel, Kiteman, LasVegas, lebowski, lennyb, llama13, lothotrity, momo!, nagutron, nak, noahw, olddaddycrane, pt, Randofo, Robyntheslug, royalestel, ryzellon, Sam Noyoun, saul, Sedgewick17, sheekgeek, stasterisk, steven07, T3h_Muffinator, technick29, Tetranitrate, Tool Using Animal, trebuchet03, trialex, x9a, zieak, and Zujus. For more information on how we judged, check here.The entries submitted to this contest exceeded all of my expectations. They are totally amazing in their quality, instructional value, uniqueness, and pure brilliance. It is my hope that everyone had a blast entering the contest and learned something useful, fun, or both. To me, the value of posting an Instructable is when someone makes a comment saying that I taught them something new, changed the way they looked at things, or inspired them to make something themselves (even if it's something totally different than my Instructable). Looking through the Instructables submitted to the contest and comments on the finalists' forum posts, it's clear that this is happening all over, and it makes me smile every time. Congratulations to all the winners! And, thanks to everyone that entered. Even if your Instructable didn't win a prize, I'm sure it has had a positive impact on someone's life and will continue to do so.

Over in Texas, a new laser has been built that can zap with a full petawatt of power. That's a quadrillion watts (that's 15 zeros) of power that gets blasted in 150 pemtoseconds.While this is not the most powerful laser ever made (that was a 1.25 petawatt laser) it is the most powerful laser currently operational. All for the cost of $7 million.So what's the point of it all?"We can put materials into states that you can't access here on earth," said Mikael Martinez, the laser project's manager. "You'd have to go out into space and hang out with an exploding star to observe what we plan to observe here in Texas."Check out the full article at Wired to see how they pull off this trick.

We've been at the Web 2.0 conference using our Epilog to laser etch all sorts of things for free. The biggest job that we did was a complete tattoo on a brand new MacBook Pro that a gadget blogger from Chile bought the previous day just for this! It was the biggest job of the show and took 26 minutes to do. Other etches usually take a lot less time as most people are etching phones (lots of iPhones).Check out some of our awesome pictures. Bring in your gear tomorrow, and we'll give it a tattoo too!More Links: CNET loved us Wired was inspired Fayer Wayer article with more pics Fabulous fractals QR codes more QR codes ... and a bit more video

USING LASER SOLAR PANELS(NOT SUN LIGHT LASER LIGHT) INSIDE ATOMIC REACTOR COULD MAKE REACTOR FIRE SAFETY WITH USING FIBER OPTICS THAT HOLD LIGHT ENERGY TO TRANSFER ENERGY IN AND OUT OF ANY ATOMIC CLOCK: FIBER OPTICS CAN MOVE LIGHT THROUGH ANY BEND OR SMALL TO REACH PLACES AND THEN TRANSFER ITS LIGHT TO ENERGY WITH THE FOLLOWING IDEA. BY SHINING LASERS ON SOLAR PANELS THAT ARE INSIDE ATOMIC AREA DEVICES TO GIVE THE PANELS ELECTRICITY FOR REACTOR CLOCK AND REPLACING ALL DANGEROUS WIRES THAT SEND ELECTRICITY TO ATOMIC PARTS OF NUCLEAR PLANT. WITH NEW FIBEROPTIC WIRES TO SEND PHOTOVOLTAIC WIRES THAT SEND ELECTRICITY WITH LASER LIGHT. VERY SAFE COMPARED TO WIRES THAT WHEN CUT MAKE SPARKS OR FIRE. FIBEROPTIC WIRES ARE SAFE IF CUT ONLY NON DANGEROUS LIGHT WILL BE LOST. AND COULD REDUCE RADIATION FROM CROSSTALK THAT COME FROM REGULAR COPPER WIRES. One more idea can you charge a solar panel battery recharger by shinning laser beam on the solar panel cells in places were there is no sun light using laser light which can charge a device from a range of up to a football field if needed. This might be used in caves or evenin drilling for in off shore oil rigs were there really is no light in deeper water. And all other light sources of light would be distortedby reflection from the water. Only a laser beam could recharge aelectronic device by using photovoltaic in deep water where sundon't shine and only a laser will not have all of its light reflectedbecause of the water's reflection property, you would only be able touse laser light properties has less water reflection than normal light. BY HUME SCIENCE INTERNSHIP FIBER OPTICS TO SEND LIGHT INSIDE ANY TYPE OF ATOMIC AREA AND CONVERT IT ONCE INSIDE CORE INTO ELECTRIC POWER AND SAFELY DECREASING RADIATION PROBLEMS. THIS IS GOOD BECAUSE LESS COPPER WIRES ARE NEEDED.(ONLY LIGHT WOULD BE TRANSFERED IN CASE OF WIRE IS CUT ONLY LIGHT WILL ESCAPE MUCH LESS DANGER. USING FIBER OPTICS TO SEND LIGHT ENERGY ONTO SOLAR CELLS INSIDE REACTOR/THIS IS A GOOD SAFETY TOOL BECAUSE IF FIBER OPTICS ARE CUT ONLY LIGHT WILL BE EXPOSED AND NOT DANGEROUS ELECTRICITY WHICH WILL CAUSE RADIATION PROBLEMS. TO SEND ELECTRICITY INSIDE THROUGH OUT REACTOR//: INSIDE ATOMIC RADIATION AREAS. THERE ARE NO NEED FOR ELECTRIC WIRES. IF ELECTRICITY IS MADE INSIDE REACTOR CORE, BY SHINING INFARED ON SOLAR CELLS OBJECT NOT SUN LIGHT ONLY INFARED LIGHT ON THEM PANELS. THIS LIGHT HAS TO BE LASER OR INFARED BECAUSE IT CAN BE CONTROLLED USING INFARED LIGHT THIS ALLOWS IT TO BE MORE CENTERED THAN SUN LIGHT CAN. REDUCING ATOMIC RADIATION IN ATOMIC REACTOR CLOCKS. AND NOT USING WIRES. A ATOMIC REACTORS CORE CLOCK HAS TO GET ELECTRICITY. THIS CAN BE DONE WITH SOLAR PANEL CELLS PLACED AND CONNECTED TO THE CORE'S CLOCK. THEN BY SHINING LASER LIGHT OR INFARED LIGHT ON SOLAR PANELS THAT ARE INSIDE THE CORE CAN GIVE AND GET THE LIGHT ENERGY POWER IT NEEDS TO RUN TRANSISTERS AND COMPUTER CHIPS. FROM SOLAR PANELS THAT ARE CONNECTED TO THE CLOCK INSIDE THE CORE. AND ARE BEING GENERATED BY CONTROLLED LASERS THAT ARE ALLOWED TO BE AT VARIABLE DISTANCES. CAN ELECTRICAL ENERGY BE TRANSPORTED BY A LASER. SURE JUST SHINE IT ON THE SOLAR PANEL AT NIGHT AND YOU WILL GET A LITTLE ENERGY, SURE IT WORKS. CAN A ATOMIC REACTOR GET ITS ENERGY VIA LASER LIGHT INSTEAD OF WIRES DOING THE TRICK. NOW WITH LASER OR FIBER OPTICS. WIRELESS ELECTRICITY CAN BE SENT WITHOUT WIRES.ELECTRICAL WIRES COULD BE THE PRODUCER OF STATIC RADIATION. WIRES DO SEND ENERGY INSIDE THE CORE AND GIVES ENERGY FOR THE CORE'S REACTOR. CAN THIS IS ALL DONE WITH NO WIRES INSIDE THE CORE; IF WE ALLOW ENERGY TO BE SENT VIA LASER LIGHT TO A CONVERTER OF SOLAR PANELS COULD CREATE ELECTRICITY IF THOSE SOLAR PANELS WERE DIRECTLY SHINED ON TO BY LASERS. A GREAT DEAL OF WIRES COULD NOT BE NEEDED. SENDING POWER TO CORES WATCH OR CIRCUITS IS POSSIBLE. BY SHINING A CONTROLLED LASER ON THE INSIDE OF A CORE'S SOLAR PANEL CAN BE ACHIEVED BY FEEDING THE SOLAR CELLS INSIDE THE REACTOR WITH LASER PHOTO ENERGY LASERS WOULD SIMPLY SHINE ON INTERIOR REACTOR SOLAR CELL COMPONENTS. ONLY DIFFERENCE IS INSTEAD OF SUN LIGHT CREATING THE ENERGY IT WILL BE A HIGH POWERED LASER SHINING ON THE PANEL SOLAR CELLS. USE LASER LIGHT WHICH IS MORE DIRECT AND IS MORE FOCUSED OVER A LONG DISTANCE. LESS RADIATION AND LESS WIRE WASTE IS THE FINAL RESULT. HAVE A GOOD CLEAN DAY. THIS IS A NEW FORM OF TRANSFERING ELECTRICITY TO EXTERNAL LOCATION. USING FIBER OPTIC LIGHT AND SENDING IT AND THEN RECIEVING IT ACROSS A DISTANCE WITHOUT WIRES. THIS SEEMS SAFER TO ME BY USING THIS METHOD. REMEMBER THIS; WE ARE NOT USING SUN LIGHT IN ANY OF THESE METHODS ONLY LASERS OR FIBER OPTICS. THIS IS INFORMATION FROM A SCHOOL PROJECT OF MINE AND IF YOU CAN GIVE MORE ON THIS SUBJECT PLEASE DO. PLACING SOLAR PANELS INSIDE BUILDINGS NOT JUST OUTSIDE, AND CAPTURING OFFICE LIGHT 24 HRS MORE PROJECTS THAT I WOULD LIKE TO EXPERIMENT A INTERNSHIP WITH! PLACING SOLAR PANELS INSIDE BUILDINGS NOT JUST OUTSIDE, AND CAPTURING OFFICE LIGHT 24 HRS

I'm looking into building a cheap, easy to build, no frills (score, shot counter, reload, etc) laser tag setup. All I'm looking for are: - a modulated 40khz IR emitter, with a muzzle flash LED - shot sound (any easy way to do this with a piezo buzzer, or other really easy way?) - a receiver that sends the signal to a piezo buzzer connected to your ear I'm not gonna go for milestag, because it's too expensive to make my goal of 8 guns with, and I don't have the skills to make it (or time), but I will use its general emitter and receiver setup, just no fancy microcontroller. All I want is a "point and shoot you got me". I AM looking for a long range, though, equal to milestag guns, and for that I'm using its modulated emitter and receiver setup (to avoid sun interference... am I right?). So far I've seen this and this as for attempts at making something old school like this, but as electronic-circuitry inadept as I am, I can't put everything together easily without some help. I've included a photo of my schematic, created with the help of the above links and modified/simplified forms of the milestag sensor... please help with corrections. My primary questions are: - how do I add a sound output to the emitter? A beep is acceptable, but if there's an easy way to add a real shot sound, I'd go for that. - how do I limit the pulse to a short, like 0.25 second time period (I realize this was answered in one of the above links, but I need a circuit diagram or more noobproof explanation for it), then stop the beam? - how would I ground the LED (Vishay tsal 6100) and a non-ultrabright, red LED (the emitter output) in the emitter schematic (left)? Do I need resistors before the ground? - how would I add the piezo buzzer to the output in the receiver schematic? I'm using a Mouser part #  539-PT2130FPQ, in case there are resistors i should know to add. - do I ground the #1 terminals on the 3 terminal 40 khz receiver/demodulator? Originally, they would have been linked to the "data" wire on the milestag module. Please help a budding DIY electronics enthusiast out?

I recently installed an Xpelair XX150T exractor fan in my bathroom. This model has an intergrated timer (which i do not want to use so i didn't connect up the unswitched live) and is supposed to be run off of a 3 pole fan switch. From my distribution board the cables are going to a switch and from there to the 3 pole fan switch and on to the fan. At the distribution board the live is connected into a 20Amp breaker and the neutral is connected to the main neutral bar. Whenever i switch on the fan the RCD trips. I've checked my wiring and i cant see any reason for this.

I have a ford laser. i want to instal aux input into it so as to listen to mp3 and i-pod. can you please advice the instructions and the wiring diagram.

Hi There, Im tryin to build a laser go go dancing cage for a big theatre production. Iv done basic wiring of LED's but never worked with lasers before. After  lot of scanning the net it seems it might be easiest to just buy a bulk load of laser pointers off aliexpress (or somewhere else?) and try to wire them into a circuit so i can turn them all on at the same time. I want the effect of the bars of light as seen in the pics below. I have been asking around with electricians and they don't seem to either want or know how to help me.... I would LOVE any help or direction anyone can give me!!! if anyone can help answer any of the following questions id GREATLY appreciate it! 1. from what iv read it seems 5mW might be best for this purpose as more powerful lasers may burn the skin (i definitely don't want to be responsible for burning the building down!) Does anyone have any thoughts on what mW i should be using for this? 2. Ideally i would like the laser cage to be able to be seen without the use of a fog machine (i will use this for effect in certain parts of the show- but would like it to still be visible when its not there) Is this possible, or would i need a stronger laser that would be too dangerous? 3. i don't really know anything about calculating the voltage or what power battery i would need once i had say 50 lasers together in a circuit. Does anyone have any links for working this out? I'm not sure if it is specific or different for lasers? 4. I read that i would need a driver, is that true? any links for that would be great! 5. are there insanely high powered LED's that could have a strong focussed beam that would be better/easier to use and i should forget about lasers all together? 6. do you have a totally different idea of how i should go about this that would be a lot easier?? Thanks!!! Andea Darling ****it won't seem to upload the reference pics so heres a couple of links to give you the idea -  http://www.qratio.com/2013/10/gotta-dance-just-find-your-rythym.html http://www.telovation.com/articles/ipod-laser-dance-cage.html

I am trying to use this devise,   to turn on a relay attached to a positive wire from a blinker can that sends the signal to the corresponding light. I have two in parallel so I can turn on and off a LH and a RH light with a momentary switch. (can't use a regular on off switch). It works perfectly when attached to its own power supply. I am using this in on a 12 volt system that has some other relays running various things in the system. when I hook this into the system, even directly from the battery, activating the other relays turns the relays on attached to this devise. I suspect it to be noise since it works great on its own power supply. I Tried running the power lead through a resistor and capacitor to help isolate the loop but didn't work. This is stretching my understanding of electricity. What I think I am looking for is how to wire this to isolate it's power +/- circuit from the rest of the system. Otherwise suggestions on how to trouble shoot. I know it is best to add a diagram but I don't know how to make one.

Its pretty much like a laser trip wire,this detector keeps detecting the rays from the led until an obstruction is made and thats when the signal must be triggered in order to sound a buzzer....pls specify the transistor which is to be used and if you are that kind pls suggest a schematic or atleast an instructable which could be helpful..

I am a hang glider pilot and like to take videos during flights. I would like to add narration and the back and forth communication with my chase driver as part of that. I have a headset in my helmet that is wired to a ham radio for that communication. The jack to the helmet is a three conductor, 1/8" jack that goes to the earphones, microphone and a common ground. There is a push to talk switch that trips the radio to transmit which is between the helmet and the radio. What I would like to be able to do is put a jack/splitter inline with the existing jack to then go into the mic jack on a voice recorder to get three things; Radio audio (receive), Radio audio (transmit) and me just talking into the headset mic - Narration.Not sure how well I am explaining this and I could just experiment, but I am thinking it's not as simple as just wiring stuff together. I'm good with a soldering iron, but no EE by a long stretch. Any thoughts? Thanks

With a lot of old electronics lying around, I embarked on taking them apart  with the intention to use the sled motors to build my first CNC. Unfortunately, I found only 2 wire DC Motors with limit switches on the laser sleds.  Here is a list: 1.Sansui DVD with Sony Laser Carriage- 2 wire sled motor with Limit switch 2.DVD player from 32cm Bahun TV        -2 wire motor with limit switch 3.CD Drive from Dell Laptop                    -Miniature motor with LS & 2 track ribbon connectors. 4.Mitsumi 31/2" Diskette drive                 -Stepper with less travel The only 4 wire stepper motor was on the diskette drive. Is it possible to use the 2 wire DC motors in my project? What sort of logic control will be required. How did they function in the DC/DVD drives?

My Disney Store Buzz Lightyear's laser wires disconnected in the upper arm (both red and black) and one in the chest (black wire). The wires look too short on certain parts. Is it possible to make wires longer? I'm having trouble and I don't have a soldering iron. Is there an easy method for soldering without having to buy a soldering iron?

I would like a flexible wearable material capable of receiving data via a laser. I would like the material to not be too affected by outside light and I would like the data transfer rate to be fast (it's only about 3 one-digit numbers I'm sending, so it shouldn't be a problem.) I am using this for a laser tag system, and the back, solders and front two sides is where I'm planning on these sensors being, so flexibility is not absolutely necessary, but would be very nice (being thin and durable, however, is necessary) please no lenses. I don't mind an elaborate setup, as long as it doesn't cost too much and uses minimal tools, but would prefer a simple "attach this to that then wire it to the controller" setup. I'll answer any questions on clarification to the best of my ability. Thank you in advance for any help.