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Potentially Lethal 'ibles

There are a lot of people recently  enquiring about "tazer" like projects, some with lethally inappropriate ideas which may well  lead to the death of either the builder or their target. Is the "inappropriate" flag an appropriate response  ? I don't really think we should be encouraging the creation of lethal weapon 'ibles, but hey, that's just my English sensibilities. What do fellow members from the country with the right to bear arms think ?  Steve

Topic by steveastrouk    |  last reply



Non lethal poison blow darts???

Non lethal poison blow darts.? I was thinking about making blow darts then the topic struck me, could common natural non lethal poisons or toxins be used in blow darts. This sounds a bit vague, so heres and example: you take poison ivy leaves and either wipe the darts on the leaves or grind up the leaves then rub darts in the mix. Would this work, how effective would this be?. I am not planning on even attempting to try this, this is for informational purposes

Topic by HOMEPIE64    |  last reply


Lethal Ozone From Flyback Transformer? Answered

I am running a flyback transformer with a 2n3055 transistor which works perfectly giving me 2cm arcs but i get a weird smell ever time i run it for more than 10 sec i think its ozone is it lethal im using a 12v 2A power supply

Question by TheGreatResistor    |  last reply


Would a disposable FujiFilm camera's capacitor be lethal? The capacitor has no markings. Answered

I want to make a shocker, and after reading something here I'm considering just leaving the capacitor out of the camera charging circut for safety. The capacitor has writing giving away the ratings on it, and I simply need to know that I won't kill my buddy with it. Oh yes, and would the charge of an AA battery ran through the circut be enough to shock someone?

Question by StartedBullet    |  last reply


Is it possible to run pinball Roms on Arduino?

I have been interested in pinball machines for quite some time, and was possibly thinking of making my own (when I get some money).  However, I would sometime like to make a recreation of one of my favorites (Lethal Weapon 3), and I see that the ROM files are posted. I was simply wondering if an Arduino could even read the ROM files, and if not, how they could (if possible) be ported to something that the microcontroller could read. Thanks in Advance!

Question by AlternateLives    |  last reply


Knex on Mythbusters

UPDATE: I have posted a link to this on a mythbusters sugest a myth forum. Cross your fingers everyone! I'm sure most of you have seen at least 1 or 2 episodes of Mythbusters, but wouldn't it be cool if one of our knex guns or other creations were actually on the show. Post a comment saying your name if you want to sign this and then, in a month, I will submit this to the Mythbusters themselves. Every week I will update the count. Remember, the more people, the more likely it will actually be on the Mythbusters. I just need a few more and I'll post it on their comment board. People so far 222222222539 TheDunkis Knexsuperbuilderfreak MrMoonatic1 Tombuckey Qwerty2008 Killerboy RMConstruction Kairah Axiys zx Falco33 Knex mad sprout_less Shadowman39 billythebob NYPA nekie81 bartboy chopstx knex gun builder Killer~Safecracker Mr.McCoy bounty1012 Selezoina Big Z logic boy Motaboi lioneatr Rockstar1000000 Rustymia Bounty1012 Cupcake43 Rec0n MotaBoi danbaha cunningham4 ceaserama H14T4TCH1 ElvenChild Update: so far there are 39 people who signed this petition. Keep it up!!

Topic by Electroinnovation    |  last reply


Real Home made guns?

Hi there, i'm new in this site, but is there instructions here on making lethal homemade guns? Not just bbs or knex, I mean ones that are really lethal. or even beter, is there someone here that knows how to make lethal automatic guns? I wached mythbusters about the paper cross bow and discovered some inmates in the past made guns from plumbing materials. Is there anyone here that knows how to do somthing like that? Waht about home made ammo?

Topic by The Incredibles    |  last reply


Knex B.M.P. 41 Mk1 (Bullpup Machine Pistol)

This is my new idea of a bullpup machine pistol. It is really cool looking and awesome. But sadly it jams up whenever you try to fire it; let alone load it. If anyone can make this from the pics, and not make it jam up; show or tell me =D

Topic by beanieostrich    |  last reply


Focus an LED

I was wondering if anyone knew how to focus more than one LED (infra red) into one tightish (about 1m at 100ms) beam. This would actually be for a laser tag gun that i would like to make an instructable about. The game is based on these high powered infrared leds that are focused by a 2cm-5cm diameter double convex lens assembly. Snipers obviously need further distance and have a tight beam while others have a much wider beam. The focus can be adjusted by moving the led back or forwards. Having more than one LED may lead to dramatic leaps in range (so it is theorised). I have been told to use cube beam splitter but i don't even know what they are. Thanks community any help is seriously much appreciated Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou

Topic by DELETED_D4VOBRO  


nerf

I would like for someone to make a better more lethal dart than this https://www.instructables.com/id/super-easy-nerf-dart-mod/

Topic by modaawesome  


Poison darts

I am working on a dart that goes with a half inch cpvc blow gun that can deliver a lethal amount of poison. I am working on a poison as well but being 12 it is hard to get the right stuff.

Topic by Pbyrd    |  last reply


want anything destructive or useful, just e-mail me.. nytro glycerine/ tnt/ hacking/ pranks/ electronic/ got it all

 anything from  poison/ explosives/ hacking / killing/ non lethal/ pranks

Question by Sam Singer    |  last reply


Toy company hired to arm US military

A gun that fires variable speed bullets and which can be set to kill, wound or just inflict a bruise is being built by a US toy manufacturer. The weapon is based on technology used to propel toy rockets.Lund and Company Invention, a toy design studio based near Chicago, makes toy rockets that are powered by burning hydrogen obtained by electrolysing water. Now the company is being funded by the US army to adapt the technology to fire bullets instead.Bruce Lund, the company's CEO, says the gun works by mixing a liquid or gaseous fuel with air in a combustion chamber behind the bullet. This determines the explosive capability of the propellant and consequently the velocity of the bullet as it leaves the gun. "Projectile velocity varies from non-lethal at 10 metres, to lethal at 100 metres or more, as desired," says Lund.The existing VWS design is a .50 calibre (12.7 mm) rifle weapon, but Lund says the technology can be scaled to any size, "handgun to Howitzer".Experts warn that fatal mistakes could be made in stressful situations, with angry soldiers turning the dial up on mobs, or forgetting to turn it up when confronted by a situation that requires a lethal response.Me, I think we're more likely to find all the secret Star Trek fans crawling out of the military woodwork, cries of set weapons to "stun", Number One echoing across the training grounds...As an aside, Lund are the people behind Tickle Me Elmo as well, which makes images of armies of armed Elmos marching towards a mob; Hee hee hee, this will tickle, hee hee hee!Article in New Scientist

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


Coil Rifle (not really a rifle, no rifling)?

So, I've been considering modifying an inexpensive muzzle loader into a coil gun with a backpack power supply.... it seems to me that this would be possible but impractical, which is perfect for an art installation... I would then take it hunting, to test its lethality. any thoughts on the idea?

Topic by gschoppe    |  last reply


What should i use to poison my blowdarts? I do What should I poison my blowdarts with?

II don't want anything too challenging or that could be lethal to me. It would be for small game, preferably containing about four ingred 

Question by Tanaka zalanka    |  last reply


CoilGun science project

Ok, i'm doing a science project and I chose to use the Coilgun-Handgun Instructable to build a coilgun and test its damage and lethality on human flesh using a piece of ballastic gelatin. Does anybody know if there is a way to measure the damage against the gelatin or another experiment i could do with the gun?

Topic by renkun67    |  last reply


I charged a capacitor about 3 months ago, would it be lethal if I discharged it again and used for another project? Answered

I built one of those disposable camera tazers where if you made contact between 2 wires soldered to the capacitor it would create a medium sized spark. Well I remember charging the capacitor for the camera about maybe 3-4 months ago, but I never made contact between the 2 wires. My question is would it be a bad idea if I discharged the capacitor again and used the camera for another project, I'm just going to be doing the same thing, except the camera will be in a different housing and a High Voltage switch mounted next to the momentary switch already mounted on just for safety. Would It be safe to solder aswell? I'm a little paranoid about electronics because of what I've heard from people dying by these shocks. Better to be safe than sorry. The disposable camera is on my workbench as I type this.

Question by halo99    |  last reply


coilgun

post in the comments your coilgun, capacitor bank, and how your coilgun works. I want to know everything about it. EX: how long your coil is, how many layers your coil is, how you built it, etc. The more you put the better. I also would like some advice on my new coilgun I'm building. I want to use flash-capacitors and 26-gauge wire. I don't want to use a lethal amount of electricity if at all possible. Thanks!

Topic by Pyrofan    |  last reply


Axial Flux Wind Turbine

24 pole, 3 phase alternator. 18 coils of #20 wire 80 turns each, 6 coils in each phase connected in series, then wired 3 phases in star config. Put out lethal voltages at a very low rpm. Using N45 2" x 1" x 1/2" Neo Mags, two discs of 24 each attracting each other through coils. I need to know what the number of turns would be for #13 wire, same configuration for charging batteries.

Topic by dna11207    |  last reply


can someone please help me draw a complete circuit diagram of a residue current device (rcd)?

A Residual-Current Circuit Breaker (RCCB) is an electrical wiring device that disconnects a circuit whenever it detects that the electric current is not balanced between the energized conductor and the return neutral conductor. Such an imbalance may indicate current leakage through the body of a person who is grounded and accidentally touching the energized part of the circuit. A lethal shock can result from these conditions. RCCBs are designed to disconnect quickly enough to prevent injury caused by such shocks. They are not intended to provide protection against overcurrent (overload) or short-circuit conditions.

Question by lynks21    |  last reply


staple gun into a BB gun

There's this guy on youtube named GatheringSticks made a working shotgun out of a Bostitch staple gun. can anyone look into this, possibly research it and build a less-lethal(and less-illegal) version of this? I can't access youtube from this PC, but the video is easy to find, just search "homemade shotgun" I had been planning on making a single-shot pistol from a Stanley staple gun that I have, but I just don't have the necessary tools... yet... and don't worry, my version was going to be for self-defense and home protection. also, if someone does make an instructable for a staple-BB-gun, I might use the basics of that for my "StaPistol"

Topic by FireLite MS2    |  last reply


Call of Duty: Custom Classes.

Post your Call of Duty Custom Classes below for everyone to see. Post anything from Black Ops Machine guns or World at War Assault Rifles.     I'll show you an example with one of my classes.                         Example: Game:                   Black Ops Primary:                Submachine Gun Weapon:               Ak74u w/ grip and rapid fire. Secondary:           CZ75 w/ extended mag. Lethal/Tactical:     Frag and Nova Gas. Equipment:            Claymore.   Perk 1:                    Scavenger Pro. Perk 2:                    Warlord Pro.                 Perk 3:                    Marathon.  Just Have Fun With it.       

Topic by Drew99-KGB    |  last reply


Welcome to the 'Guns and weaponry' Instructbales group

Hello and welcome to the 'Guns and Weaponry' instructables group, this group focuses on improvised weaponry.i must warn you that some things posted here may be potentially lethal, so do not join this group if you are going to bitch about it.However, most things on here will be relativly harmless, and will not injure anyone too badly.FAQ:Q:What can/cant i post in this group?A:Any TUTORIAL on how to build a firearm / improvised weapon.Not pointless things nothing to do with the group, such as 'how to post pictures on your instructables acount' they do not fit in here, perhaps another group.Q:What kind of guns do you mean?A: Firearms, airsoft guns, pellet guns, spud guns, cannons.a gun that propels something out of the barrel. Not tatoo guns ect.Q:What does 'improvised' weaponry mean?A: IMPROVISED weaponry is something edited or made to do the same job as a weapon. ECT. sharpened stones to a knife-like sahpe for cutting > Improvised knife.Ok, rant over. :) Kids, dont kill yourself doing any of this please.Enjoy people.

Topic by Camster911    |  last reply


is it possible to make lightning gloves?

A friend of mine is offering me big bucks if i build him  a pair of lightning gloves which would shoot large sparks or lightning from one glove to the other. now because ive never built a voltage multiplier befor ei would like to know if theres any problems with my idea which is i get a  small 12v battery pack for racing car i connect that bttery (with a resistor ) to a transformer i then make a voltage multiplier with hv capasitors and diodes to multiply the voltage until a certain voltage is obtained. however i do not know how hoigh the voltage should be so that it is not lethal, but can jump at least one meter from one glove to the other. also as a safety precaution a large copper wire suit should be worn which me and my friend used on my uncles high voltage vandegraf generator whish shot 20m lighnting at us in our loighting suits ontop of our diving suits , and we never felt a thing. anyways, can you please tell e the specs of everything i will need to acomplish my mission?

Question by oldmanbeefjerky    |  last reply


Questions about making a railgun

Sorry if this is the wrong section, it's my first time posting. I am thinking of making a railgun for a school project dealing with magnetism. I basically know how to make one, but most tutorials say anywhere from 300V - 600V for the current. However, since this is going to be my first time doing something like this, I don't not want to risk electrocution without any prior experience. The projectile will be a short nail, probably be around 3 centimeters long and 4 millimeters in diameter. I want the range to be around 10 meters or more and should be able to pierce a layer of cardboard. The starting force that will just be an ordinary rubber band. This is more of a demonstration for myself to see what I can accomplish, so range and fire power doesn't really matter. So basically my question is, what is a viable voltage for the railgun, given my specifications above, that will not take me on a ride to the ER. If should it shock me, then so be it, I just don't want it to be lethal when I do make a mistake. Again, I am a novice at stuff like this and don't know much, so take into account of that fact when getting irritated at my question. Thanks in advance.

Topic by Brinith    |  last reply


(newsletter) Build a Lightsaber, Fiber Optic Ceiling, Steampunk Laptop

Sign-up for this newsletter: Welcome back! Arduino Contest - Make anything involving Arduino and win a sweet prize from Evil Mad Science or an Arduino Mega! Closes Sunday: Digital Days Photo Contest - Show us your best photo trick, tip, or homemade gadget to win a new Sony digital camera! Winners announced: See who won the Converse Back to School in Style Contest! Coming soon: Our most awesome Halloween Contest ever! Any Instructable published since the last Halloween contest is eligible! Want a more convenient version of Instructables with fewer ads? Get a Pro Membership! Create a Fiber Optic Starfield Ceiling Bedazzler: DIY Non- Lethal Weaponry Make a Werewolf Mask Mummy Dogs Get your outfit ready!   Closes this Sunday! Steampunk Veneer Laptop Mod Non-PV Solar Power Low Cost Halloween Pop-Up Character Build a Sweet Raised Clubhouse Build a Lightsaber Quick Roast Chicken The Office Worker's Portable Solar Oven Install a Ball Valve on a Cooler See who won!   Win sweet prizes from Evil Mad Science! Make an Indoor/ Outdoor Boomerang Hand-Solder a PowerPad IC Cheap and Quick iPhone Stand Make Your Own Lathe from Trash   Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric Instructables.com - 82 2nd St. - San Francisco, CA Sign-up for this newsletter:

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


I accidentally invented a device to collimate any light source into a concentrated beam... what should I do with it?

I've been umming and ahhing about what to do with this for the couple of weeks since I accidentally invented the thing (I was working on a solar energy device), and I thought you guys may be your usual well-spring of help and advice. Basically I seem to have designed a device which will collimate an extended light source. Any light source. So you could, for example, turn a 100 Watt light bulb into a 100 Watt laser. Or a square meter of sunlight into a kiloWatt. I haven't made it, but simming on the computer gives an optimal blow out rate of about 1/2 meters per kilometer, so over a range of meters or tens of meters it's pretty much as accurate as a normal laser. The only upper limit I can see on how much power you could put through this thing is when the materials start melting, which would probably be pretty high. There's really nothing fancy about it, it's just a shape. You could print it out easily on a 3d printer and fill it with some kind of settable glass for the total-internal-reflection. It would weigh about as much as a 2 litre bottle of water and be about the same size. I was concerned about it being weaponisable, but even at a kiloWatt the lethal range would probably be less than 100 meters, in which case you might as well just get a gun. I don't know if anyone's already done something like this, I can't find anything online, and people kept telling me it was supposed to be impossible. So, um, yeah...

Topic by SolarFlower_org    |  last reply


Are you to blame?

OK, I know it's a deliberately attention-grabbing topic name. Sorry about that.There was a post on the Bamboo bike frame, essentially saying "a disclaimer that this could be dangerous isn't enough; people aren't qualified to judge the strength of their homebuilt bike frames so might still get hurt even if they are careful", which attracted a lot of ire, but also a response from whiteoakart reframing the question, thus:As a maker and writer of an Instructable, what is your responsibility to keep your readers safe? How far does your culpability extend?This is obviously a knotty issue, and one that seems to have a range of attitudes across the board- some people say "pointy things are pointy, hot things are burny, don't hurt yourself" and leave it at that, some people list all the grievous injuries possible from their Instructable.In my opinion, there are two major things to consider:Is a person likely to do themselves harm even taking reasonable precautions?An Instructable on how to weld, with clear advice on breathing protection, eye protection and not electrocuting yourself should be "safe"An Instructable on free rock climbing, even with all the advice in the world about how to climb well, could easily get someone killed because free climbing is inherently dangerousIs the intended audience capable of accurately assessing the risks? The risks of a table saw are obvious- put your hands in the wrong bit and it will cut them off- but the risks of high-voltage electrics are harder to judge with simple "common sense" because a seemingly minor fault could be lethal.Both of these have an element of "reasonable" to them- if you make your instructions foolproof nature will give you a bigger fool, but there is a point at which it is reasonable to assume that a sensible person following your instructions with care and attention will not injure themselves.More thoughts?

Topic by PKM    |  last reply


Propane flame thrower

    Please read full post before making any comments. First of all yes, I know real flame throwers use napalm and compressed air to operate, but I don't want any crazy range and lethal power. I don't intend on using this thing in combat. I'm thinking something with a 4-5 foot flame, more if possible, (I don't think it would be with propane, but please, correct me if I'm wrong). I don't want a jet flame so I'm assuming I'll need to lower the pressure to get a more "violent" looking flame with the desired ranged. A "gas pump handle" for the flame control (sorry I don't know the proper term for that type of mechanism. it's not really a trigger. A lever valve?), or I might use a solenoid, not sure yet, Whatever would be more effective. Again, please give me any input your may have. The fuel source would be a large propane tank that I will have strapped to my back, I already have a design for that. If that seems too extreme I might do what this guy did and use a small tank with a reservoir, but with two tanks for more fuel. ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypIGeNdJbJ4 )  I'm undecided on whether I want electric ignition if anyone could give advice on that as well it would be appreciated. Anyone who has made something like this or knows what they are talking about please give me your input. Yes, I know this is a dangerous project and I take full responsibility should anything go wrong.    This is a video showing the flamethrower that in the above video being used. It displays the kind of performance I am looking for, except I don't want it strapped to my wrists. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5_ogU4Jzt4

Topic by shark4t    |  last reply


Tesla Coil Safety?

My high school recently had an engineering fair, and my friend had built a tesla coil. Its has multiple spark gaps, an RF filter (I think thats what its called), a 120 to 20000v transformer, and toroid top-load, if any of that matters. We/I would entertain ourselves by standing away from the coil and holding a fluorescent tube (by the glass with bare hands, not by the contacts) near the top-load and watching it light up. Even though I was well away from the coil, my forearm muscles would twitch, especially it the coil spark hit the contact on the other side of the tube. Then if anybody touched me, both of us would feel a shock and the same slight twitching (the same kind of twitching you feel from those electric muscle stimulators with the pads you put on sore muscles). We even set up a chain of about 5 people holding hands, and all of us would feel a shock, even though only the first person in the line (aka me)  was holding the fluorescent tube near the coil, with my hand on glass, no where within range of the streamers coming from the top-load. Now for my question: is this dangerous? (I know its non-lethal, im talking about my nerves) And what exactly was happening? because it was not an incredibly large coil, and i know that the field of a coil is much larger than the actual streamers. I also read somewhere that insulators dont work the same at incredibly high voltages. I think what I was feeling was the skin effect, and the charge came from the excited electrons in the tube. If my ideas are correct, then wouldn't me holding the tube be just the same as if i had just put my hand near the top-load and let the streamers hit me?

Question by masterbuilder    |  last reply


A Moral Quandry About Posting - Advice Sought

Hi all, I'm having a bit of a dilemma regarding an Instructable for April Fool's Day. I was considering posting an idea I had for pulling the classic schoolboy Flaming-Bag-Of-Poo-On-The-Doorstep prank, only at great distances. It's a thought I had several years ago when a colleague was irritating me, and I thought "I'd really like to leave a flaming bag of poo on his porch. Too bad he lives 2000 miles away." Obviously, this is not something that I would actually do. It's intended as an amusing article about the theory of the thing, not something to make in real life and use. Mailing combustible materials is illegal and dangerous, potentially lethal, prosecutable under terror laws, and just generally a bad idea all 'round. Also, the mechanism of the thing could be easily repurposed to initiate a much more dangerous payload than a paper bag full of poo. Honestly, the device is pretty much a mail bomb with a joke payload. My major concerns are 1) there are people out there who would be dumb enough to build it and prank someone, thinking they could do it safely; 2) there are people out there who are malicious enough to build it and use it for intentionally destructive purposes; 3) The mere presence of the article on the site could potentially attract government scrutiny, and if someone actually were to get injured by such a device built from plans found on this site.... On the other hand, Kiteman's 0th. I have considered redesigning it so that the payload involves something innocuous, like a spring-loaded confetti launcher or a recorded message, but the humor of the thing really depends upon the absurdity of mailing someone a flaming bag of poo. Mailing someone a sound bite that says "YOU SUCK" just doesn't have the same impact. Plus, it costs more to make. Poo is free. Anyway, what do my esteemed colleagues think? Am I being overly cautious, or am I right in just shelving the whole thing?

Topic by RavingMadStudios    |  last reply


"Miracle Liquid" - Electrolyzed Water

Http://articles.latimes.com/2009/feb/23/business/fi-magicwater23I think someone with more time than me should see how to do this most efficiently and see if it work!The article:Sounds like the old "Saturday Night Live" gag for Shimmer, the faux floor polish plugged by Gilda Radner. But the elixir is real. It has been approved by U.S regulators. And it's starting to replace the toxic chemicals Americans use at home and on the job.The stuff is a simple mixture of table salt and tap water whose ions have been scrambled with an electric current. Researchers have dubbed it electrolyzed water -- hardly as catchy as Mr. Clean. But at the Sheraton Delfina in Santa Monica, some hotel workers are calling it el liquido milagroso -- the miracle liquid.That's as good a name as any for a substance that scientists say is powerful enough to kill anthrax spores without harming people or the environment.Used as a sanitizer for decades in Russia and Japan, it's slowly winning acceptance in the United States. A New York poultry processor uses it to kill salmonella on chicken carcasses. Minnesota grocery clerks spray sticky conveyors in the checkout lanes. Michigan jailers mop with electrolyzed water to keep potentially lethal cleaners out of the hands of inmates.In Santa Monica, the once-skeptical Sheraton housekeeping staff has ditched skin-chapping bleach and pungent ammonia for spray bottles filled with electrolyzed water to clean toilets and sinks."I didn't believe in it at first because it didn't have foam or any scent," said housekeeper Flor Corona. "But I can tell you it works. My rooms are clean."Management likes it too. The mixture costs less than a penny a gallon. It cuts down on employee injuries from chemicals. It reduces shipping costs and waste because hotel staffers prepare the elixir on site. And it's helping the Sheraton Delfina tout its environmental credentials to guests.The hotel's kitchen staff recently began disinfecting produce with electrolyzed water. They say the lettuce lasts longer. They're hoping to replace detergent in the dishwasher. Management figures the payback time for the $10,000 electrolysis machine will be less than a year."It's green. It saves money. And it's the right thing to do," said Glenn Epstein, executive assistant at the Sheraton Delfina. "It's almost like fantasy."

Topic by elnino2783  


how to stop a bully (11 - 12 year old? Answered

Hi this is kaden and i have a problem with getting bullied at school below is an email that i sent  to my school counselor This is in place of spending my day talking to you be because i would rather type it than talk or write it so here it goes. last year carter moved to oak lawn from wakanda and he keep saying things to me like kadens a big baby kadens a big baby or kadens stupid and stuff like that. i would try to tell teachers this but they wouldn't listen or if they did listen they did nothing but give me lunch detention and a major. i am not going to lie but obviously i responded to all of this in not the best way i could of but he just kept following me around and making faces calling  me names  and it got on my nerves. but that was last year but this year he has resorted to physical violence such as use my head as a personal whack-a-mo game or my body as target practice with sticks and stones but also mentally such as lying to the teachers or following me around making faces at me and stuff like that. the worst part i can't defend myself against lunchboxes because then i am the one who gets in trouble but if i let him just hit me and hurt me then neither of us gets in trouble which me and my parents think is just wrong. this next section is just other things that bother me this year… Lucas well he has a history of calling me names too like toothpick and weakling and the thing that sticks out about him was at the end of last year we made tape sculptures and he STOLE my scissors he BROKE my scissors and then he turned my scissors and a glass bottle in to a LETHAL WEAPON and chased me with it and the worst part the teachers did NOTHING he could'would've killed me if he wanted to. but then this year i walk in the bathroom at lunch he calls me weird annoying pushes me against the wall all before i even have the chance to walk away. that fixed my problem for the most part then a moth later it all started again and now a week ago i had a boy with down syndrome kiss me but that's was fixed. then that morning lucas came in my homeroom and called me those names and there were two teachers standing there that did nothing then i was having a bad day after that because i had a sub in lang arts (when theirs a sub its chaos) then i found out that carter started having science the period before me so he was always the last one out and he would always call me names or stomp on my foot (I recently found out that in elementary carter was biting my best friend on the leg) then i had lunch whop hew but then there's Jenny (jenny is a lying girl that thinks shes better than everyone else) and so i told her that library was closed for the day (they had a meeting so kids couldn't use the computers) and then she took out an arrow head and had it in the palm of her hand then she took her thumb and pointer finger and squeezed the side of my neck with the arrow head in hand and she left major marks that went away by the time the teacher saw them the next day but since my neck and face were all red (not from blood) and in tears every one kept asking me whats wrong (funny how the people that always ignore you seem all sympathetic for you if your hurt) so i just pointed to my neck and they just said oh wow then two periods later in band another girl did the same thing as jenny minus the arrow head  now that i have gotten that off my chest hears some more info about this situation i have talked to the school counselor whatever he does it only worked on one kid chance (he is to minor for this story) every body else i don't think he does any thing about principle all he does is listen and and nothing else i have talked to my parents and they email the teachers so no outcome any help and please no troll answers thanks, Kaden

Question by theawesomekid    |  last reply


Unusual uses for coffee machine cleaner or delimer/descaler

Some people can't be without coffee, and some love to keep thei machines as clean as possible.Teste is all and if is not right the day already starts bad...But what is that stuff really?It needs to be food safe, shall not damage or corrode and part of the machine and of course can't be harful or even toxic.The main ingredient is an acid.Some acids are considered to be very corrosive on almost anything, others can set set organic material on fire and some even etch glass.Limestone, coffee staind and build up as well as most minerals that might build up in your machine magically disappear with just some added water and time.Our candidate is named Citric Acid!Very weak on things we thing about when comes to strong acids but quite powerful on the offending stuff in our kettles and coffee machines.Knowing that means we could abandone quite a lot of expensive and specialised cleaning produduct for a fully natural and harmless alternative.Calcium deposits in the bath clean up really nice and quick with it - but read the warnings and dangers below!Same for long abused toilets as mentioned in my topic about it.Stainless steel cooking pots or pans are still a favourite for some people, the pain of cleaning them once something really burnt on badly not so much.Vinegar is a prefered choice here, if you stand the smell when heating it up.Citric acid can not only provide the same cleaning strength but also deal with the things vinegar can't.In some cases stainless steel can develop rusty pits or discoloration from overheating (not trying to make it glow!).And where vinegar just cleans off the burnt in food, citric acid also clean the steel itself.Up to a degree even badly discolored things come back to a silvery look if you give it some time to work.Ever had some rusty parts and tried vinegar to get them back to bare steel?Coke can add some slight protection by passivating the steel, but like on stainless steel citric acid can do more.Unless highly concentrated and hot it won't really affect and good steel quickly.On the other hand it is really aggressive on impurities, rust and certain hard to clean off residues.Words of warning, wisdom and advise!A little bit of hydrochloic acid in your stomach is not only required but also harmless.You wouldn't want in a concentrated form anywhere on your in you though....The same logic is true with citric acid - you can make some nice artificial lemonade with it to enjoy on a hot summers day.But highly conecentrate or even heated up the story is quite different!Proper protection should be as obvious as proper handling.And mishaps should be dealt with lots of water or baking soda right away.I stress this out as my last example will highlight the dangers of citric acid that are not reall known to the public.And if it is that dangerous for some things or even just one that you should not take the risk with living tissue when dealing with higher concentrations or temperatures.Side effect that could possibly be lethal!Shiny things are nice and even nicer if clean and sparkling.Chrome plating or using chrome even is plastic coatings is still common.A lot of tap and bathware is chrome plated, same for a lot of things we have in our households or tool boxes.As tempting as it might be to use citric acid to clean something that just might contain chrome you should not try it!Chrome is almost all of its salt forms is highly toxic, same for most if not all byproducts of chemical reactions involving chrome.Cirtic acid is extremely aggressive on chrome!The tell tale sign is a discoloration of your solution into a greenish-yellow tint!Another a distinct and really unpleasant smell!Some steels include chrome too, so if you notice a bad smell when cleaning then rinse all properly and using other ways of cleaning the item!Corroded chrome plated parts might benefit from a treatment though despite the risk.Unlike sanding the chrome down and contaminating everything with fine and toxic dust you only need to deal with liquids and breathing protection - doing it outside or in really well ventilated areas is a must do anyways here.Dsiposal of anything that caused a bad smell or yellow-greenish discolartion should be done in a sealed container at your local waste disposal center.Please lable it and and also mention it contains chrome dissolved in citric acid!If you placed chrome plated parts into a solution of citric acid by accident and only realise once the smell interrupted your movie session then first go outside!!!This means preferably every living being in the house!If you have use brething protection in the form of carbon filters but either way try to vent the house first by trying to open what you can from the outside.The removal of the metal and taking the container outside should be done as quickly and safely as possible.Unless you are prepared and know what you so stay outside, call the fire brigade and state what happend!A severe reaction with chrome is nothing you should risk your health for!Never, ever dispose of anything that cause a bad smell or discoloration through drain!Bring to a disposal center and keep possible poisons of of the enviroment!

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply