Search for linear actuator in Topics


remote linear actuator

   Hey everyone. I have a question about a  linear actuator that I'm putting on my sawmill to control the throttle. On a sawmill you either need to be full throttle or idle. I've already got the actuator mounted and it works great. Now I need a controller for it. I've got a keyless remote from a auto parts store that I would like to use. I also would like to have a hard wired button. The kicker is that I would like to be able to push a button on the remote or the wired button and the actuator go all the way out. And then push the same button and it come all the way in. The actuator has built in limit switches so it will stop on its on either all the way out or in. This may not be feasible for me to do but I was just thinking by using relays it may be. If I can't use just the one button then I'll have to use two. There should be no need for a stop button since the actuator has a limit switch at both ends. Thanks

Question by papermaker007    |  last reply


Possible to use a single foot pedal switch to activate a linear actuator?

I acquired this mechanism which I would like to modify for ease of use. The original set up uses a linear actuator and a 3 way toggle switch. The linear actuator comes with built in limit switches. The 3-way toggle is not practical as my hands are fully utilised on the work bench. I would like to modify the set-up so that I can use a single foot pedal switch to get this motion. One step on the foot switch and the linear actuator extends to its maximum length. Then another step on the same foot switch and the linear actuator retracts to its maximum. Any help with the circuitry and parts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. ROY

Question by anslemroy    |  last reply


how do i plug in my Linear Actuator in to my Vex Cortex Microcontroller? Answered

I know how to do servos and such, but the actuator has 5 wires, and i dont know where to put it.

Question by therobotman    |  last reply


LA

Hey,    I have a robotic project that I have a deadline for. i have everything in place, but i cant think of how to connect the linear actuator up to my Vex Cortex Microcontroller. it has 5 wires, but I cant fit them in any of the outlets. Sincerely, I cant give my name out

Topic by therobotman    |  last reply


Questions about linear actuators?

Im looking for some info on how to make some small (10-20cm) linear actuators. or if anyone knows were they can be bought that would also be helpful.

Question by bamphy    |  last reply


wiring a linear actuator with relays

  Hello everyone. I'm trying to run a linear actuator with built in limit switches by remote control. I bought the remote from a parts store. The remote was supposed to be used for windows up and down, door locks and other stuff. I would like to be able to use the relays that I already have on hand. I want to be able to push a button on the remote and the actuator go all the way out or in without holding the button down the whole time. Thank for your help.

Topic by papermaker007    |  last reply


Linear actuator wiring question

I have a 73 Bronco, I am trying to install a set of step bars onto. I would like to have them mounted on a linear actuator. Is it possible to have them wired to a door jam switch, so they would lower when door is opened, and raise when closed? Every switch I have seen is a toggle, which won't work for my application. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Greg

Question by greg dill    |  last reply


Seeking someone to hire for a project

Hi, I'm not sure if it's appropriate to post this inquiry on instructables but I thought I'd give it a try. Basically, I need a dial that would command this linear actuator https://www.servocity.com/sda24-263 to advance in one inch increments on either a dial or a touchpad or a slider. I'm not an engineer and I don't really have time to build this myself - would anyone be interested in doing this for a fee? If it would help in assessing the project, I now this controller would work https://www.servocity.com/digital-manual-speed-controller However, I need the dial or touch pad to allow for discrete steps and not be sort of vague. Any help would be much appreciated. I'm just not sure where else to turn. Thanks, Evan

Topic by EvanB65  



Toggle switch for linear actuator

Hi I'm new here - I'd be very grateful if someone could give me some tips. Apologies if I'm asking something that's already well covered. If so, please direct me.I'm building a TV lift cabinet that will use a 12V linear actuator to lift the TV. It is likely to take somewhere between 1-2 minutes to fully extend and retract the actuator. I want to be able to control the raising and lowering of the TV using a 3-way toggle switch that returns to the central 'off' position by itself. I want a nudge of the switch in one direction to operate the actuator for, e.g., 75 seconds (by which time it should be fully extended), and a nudge in the other direction to operate the actuator with polarity reversed to retract it. The timings are not critical, as the actuator will shut off automatically when fully extended/retracted.Many thanks, Chris

Question by sirsh42    |  last reply


wiring limit switches on a linear actuator

I am trying to wiring two limit switches onto a linear actuator. One to stop the extend stroke but will allow you to retract the actuator. The other limit switch will stop the retract stroke but allow you to extend the actuator. The actuator is installed on a door I need it to stop on the extend stroke and the retract stroke so it doesn't damage anything. I have an LACT8-500A actuator and the company doesn't make a limit kit for the adctuator.

Topic by youaintwrong    |  last reply


How to tilt a bed / linear actuators?

I'm thinking about making an alarm clock that literally gets me out of bed! The alarm clock would start tilting the bed to one side, untill i either get out of bed, or fall out of bed :) I was thinking of using linear actuators on one side of the bed to do the tilting. Does anyone here have any experience with linear actuators? How strong are they, and where can I buy them cheaply? Any other ideas on how to tilt a bed? Cheers - Chr

Topic by chr    |  last reply



Hack your Servo V1.00: Make a powerful linear actuator using a standard hobby Servo

Hack your Servo V1.00: Make a powerful linear actuator using a standard hobby Servo   Provided you have the tools and the servo you can built this for under a couple of bucks. The actuator extends with a rate of about 50mm/min. It is rather slow but very powerful. Watch my video at the end of the post where the small actuator lifts 10kg vertically.   Materials List Tools list   - hobby servo - standard hobby brass tubing             -OD: 4.0mm, ID: 3.4mm             -OD: 5.8mm, ID: 4.5mm - standard hobby styrene tubing                                                 -OD: 4.8mm, ID: 3.5mm - M4 studding - 2 x M5 washers - 2 x M4 nuts - 5 minute epoxy - cyanoacrylate - grease - multi-strand cables - heat-shrink tubing   - standard tools – screwdrivers, scalpel, files etc. - dremmel multi-tool with ceramic abrasive disk, or similar - hand-drill + 4.9mm + 2.5mm drill-bits - M3 tap - M4 tap - soldering iron - glue gun - small vice - small saw - sanding paper (relatively fine) - small flame torch         http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/material_tools.jpg Procedure - I will be giving instructions based on the dimensional parameters of the Hitec HS-300. The procedure remains the same for any type servo. I strongly recommend you read the whole post before you start. So lets make a start, shall we?   - Open your hobby servo, remove control electronics, feedback potentiometer and mechanical stop on the servo’s output gear.   - Solder new cables on the servo motor’s leads.   - Drill two 4.9mm holes on the servo case bottom cover. These should be located longitudinally along the centre line and 9.5 mm from each end (this applies on the Hitec HS-300 and is also true for many standard servos but depending on your servo type there might be differences). The M4 thread will come out from the servo body using one of these two so this hole must be located directly below the centre of rotation of the servo’s output gear. Be very careful since this alignment is very important! If you don’t get it right you might have to use a new servo! The more accurate you are, the longer your servo will endure.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/bottomCover_potHead.jpg -  Measure the dimensions of the rotating shaft of the potentiometer on the servo’s original electronics – note the geometry in general. The shaft should be flattened right at the tip in order to prevent it from freely-rotating once inserted into the servo’s output gear.   - Take the M4 studding (M4 thread) pick one end and by using the dremmel and the abrasive wheel tool, replicate the tip of the servo’s potentiometer on that end. Start by decreasing the diameter of the thread, rotating it steadily by hand against the abrasive disk (normally to 3.5mm in diameter and at least 6mm in length). Try to think of your fingers as the chuck of a slow-turning lathe. Once the diameter of the thread is down to the pot’s shaft diameter, flatten the tip according to the potentiometer’s tip. The idea is that the thread must be inserted in the servo’s output gear in the same way the potentiometer did before. The better the fit the longer your servo will endure.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_modofication.jpg - On the flat tip of the M4 thread, screw the two M4 nuts approximately 20mm down its length. Following that, insert the two M5 washers. - Insert the thread inside the servo and adjust the distance of the nuts and washers down the thread such that the servo case bottom cover closes properly and the motor rotates efficiently. Basically, you have to make sure that once the thread and the servo are assembled there is no pressure between the servo case bottom cover and the nut-washer assembly. Similarly, you have to make sure that once the thread and the servo are assembled there is no gap between the servo case bottom cover and the nut-washer assembly. Once again, the better the fit the more your linear actuator will endure.   - Once you find the optimum position carefully disassemble the servo, remove the washers from the thread and use a drop of cyanoacrylate on the side of the nut that was in contact with the washers in the assembly. Let the glue to settle for 5 minutes. Unscrew the second nut by 10mm towards the flat end of the thread, and prepare a small epoxy mix.   - Put the mix between the two nuts and screw the second nut back in place. Once in place also use some epoxy on the back of the second nut as well. Ideally you should sand all contacting areas before you apply the epoxy glue. Leave to settle for at least 6 hours (even if you use a 5 min epoxy).     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/copper_thread.jpg - Secure tightly the 4mm diameter brass tube onto a vice by flattening the mounting end and use the M4 tap VERY carefully tapping as deep as possible (at least 15mm). Using the dremmel cut 10mm out of the threaded part of the tube and then verify that the created thread runs along the whole length of the small threaded tube by screwing it onto an M4 screw. Keep the 4mm threaded tube on the screw for handling purposes. Apply a layer of solder on the outside surface.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_solder.jpg - Take the 5.8mm diameter brass tube pick one end and try to sand at least 5mm into the tube (on the inside). Mount the brass tubing on the vice without squishing it and apply a thin layer of solder on the inside.   - Ignite the flame torch, take the 4mm threaded tube (holding it by the screw) and move it on the soldered end of the 5.8mm diameter brass tube which should still be mounted on the vice. Using the flame torch heat-up both tubes and carefully insert the 4mm threaded tubing inside the 5.8mm tubing until is fully inside. Use a pair of pliers and insert the brass tube by holding the end of the screw that sticks out. Hold the threaded tube levelled inside the 5.8mm tube until the solder settles. If you do not have a flame torch use a candle, your soldering iron and your patience :). Remove the screw. The end result will be the cylinder of your linear actuator.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_cylinder.jpg - The cylinder length should be equal to: the actuator’s desired working length (stroke) + length of the 4mm threaded tube which is inside the 5.8mm tube + 10mm for the mounting hinge at the cylinder end.   - The thread length should be: the actuator’s desired working length (stroke) + length of threaded tube which is inside the 5.8mm tube + length of the thread which resides inside the servo casing, which is model-dependant.   - Take the non-threaded/non-soldered side of the cylinder and drill a 2.5mm hole through, 5mm from the tip.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/cylinder_heatShrink.jpg - Cover the entire length of the cylinder with heat-shrinking tube and cut-off any excess bits. The 2.5mm through holes made earlier on the non-threaded side of the cylinder are now covered. Use the drill again to expose them and tap them through, using the M3 tap. Screw a 20mm long M3 studding or simply cut-off the head of a 20mm long M3 screw. This will act as your cylinder mounting hinge.   - Take the 4.8mm styrene tubing and M4 tap it 10mm deep. Cut a small ring 5mm in length and screw it in the M4 thread fully, from the side of the nut that was in contact with the washers (long side of the M4 thread). This will act as bushing between the thread and the servo’s case bottom cover. Ideally you should use nylon, copper or metal bushing.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_servo.jpg - Secure the motor cables inside the servo casing using a glue-gun and use heat-shrinking tube to cover them. Assemble the servo including the thread, the styrene bushing and the washers.   - Screw-on the cylinder and you are good to go! Here is a video of the small actuator lifting 10kg For those of you that have watched my video on the MTR Rover     will understand where the idea of hacking the servo came from ;))   Soon we will be posting assembly instructions, code and schematics on how to modify a standard servo to get full PID speed and position control with 10-bit resolution over 360 degrees – continuous ;)     I look forward for your comments!    

Topic by Antonb    |  last reply


the use of threaded rods for cnc miller and cnc 3d printers

I got some threaded rods today. They look straight. 16 threads per inch.  The tag on one of the shorter ones says 3/8" - 16x36", course threads, zinc plated 1700lb. I was planning to use these for the x,y,z control for a 3d miller/printer. I realize it may be slow. Someone mentioned that the McWire repstrap uses a 4 1/20 (the only part I understand is 20 threads per inch) was really slow, but someone made it work with 2 1/16. I did not really have plans to attempt position verification because I think the resistance vs torque should be minimal for a threaded rod setup. I figure I could get away with just sending it specific pulses for a specific amount of time. Could I have some feedback on this?

Topic by nstenzel    |  last reply


lift table from old adjustable bed

Have two old electric linear screw actuators that work great. I Need a lift table but can't figure out how to put it all together. I don't know what width or type of metal use for the lift or the bolt hinges???.  Does it have to be a scissor lift or can I keep the actuators where they are at each end of the bed, wire them to work together and make a lift that way?  I need an affordable way of doing this and it only needs to lift to about 500 lbs. from 17 inches off floor to 30 inches off floor.  All framing is angle iron but seems heavy duty. Anyone's help if greatly appreciated as I just cannot afford to spend $ 1000. + on an electric massage lift table. The pic is after everything but the motor/actuators were removed. Thanks Deb

Topic by DebMaudie    |  last reply


Wanted: Controller for Linear Acuator

Basically, I need a dial that would command this linear actuator https://www.servocity.com/sda24-263 to advance in one inch increments on either a dial or a touchpad or a slider. EvanBrenner@gmail.com or 917 414 5472 Thanks! Evan

Topic by EvanB65    |  last reply


How to wire an actuator to reverse polarity with relays only, no switchs?

I'm using the L12 S Firgelli actuator in my project. If I applied 12v and Ground to respective leads the actuator will expand if I reverse the wires the actuator will retract. I need this: When I turn my car on the actuator will expand and when I turn my car off the actuator will retract. How do I wire the relays? Again I don't use a switch. Thanks

Question by kpitao    |  last reply


How would you go about building a CHEAP remote linear actuator to release a spring loaded trigger?

I would like to build a remote bird launcher (does not hurt the animal) from cheap or used parts, but my electronics skills have been found wanting! The mechanism is spring loaded so I just need to release a trigger mechanism sothat the springs can do their job and launch the bird. We are currently using a string, but is not effective! I have come across a few other instructables/diys for this, but they tend to be made from more expensive parts. I have heard ideas like using a doorbell remote and receiver, but how do you get the receiver to give a pulse to an actuator in order to push/pull the trigger? The suggested actuator is a car central locking device. ANY advice would be greatly appreciated and i am open for any fresh ideas.

Question by Gundog    |  last reply


Looking for more info on dish actuator

I received a free actuator from my friends cottage. 11 years ago it use to angle a 8ft dish. It was removed some time ago, and the label is fully off. The bottom says its a saginaw performance pak actuator, aka PPA, and it has a 24" arm. I was trying to find more information on it, and all I can find is that it can be heavy, regular, or light, 600-1,500 pounds dynamic linear. Anyone have one or any ideas? I cant find a model number on the case cuz it faded, but the motor says 7821645 or 1821645. Either way I found a tiny chart listing models but not that one.http://www.galaxy-marketing.com/images/7822260.jpgLooks similar to that one there. I just want to find out how much force it has. Most I done so far to test it works aftter 11 years of rusting on the main shaft (the moving piston is fine) is sit on a box. It manage to push me with no change in motor sound. Any more details? Please ask!

Topic by Killa-X  


How to control DIY linear actuator with end switches and sensor input?

I want to build a DIY 12v DC linear actuator, using Arduino uno. The actuator is DIY so it does not have any position tracking. I want to use 2 relays to control the direction of the actuator, two end switches, and one sensor input (preferably a photo resistor) The sensor, and end switches are connected to Arduino UNO R3 as inputs and relays as outputs. When the sensor is energized motor moves forward until it hits End Switch No 1 and stops; When the sensor its not energized motor moves backwards until it hits End Switch No 2 and stops: And be able to repeat this program whenever  the sensor is energized. I would be greatly appreciate if someone can help me with this sketch, because i don't have any experience with Arduino code. Thank you and have a grat day.

Question by catalin1704    |  last reply


Light controlled wildlife feeder

I want to create a box where the lid opens up based on ambient light. Basically the lid closes at night and is open during the day. It will be a wildlife feeder that deters (nocturnal) raccoons from eating all of the feed but allows daytime wildlife to feast heartily. Is arduino the correct setup. My basic design is to have a linear actuator opening the lid but was also considering a crank type system (similar to a steam engine drive wheel). I need to either be able to control how long the actuator extends when enough light is present and reverse the action when not enough light is present or turn a servo motor with a crank a certain distance. Id prefer to use the actuator since the lid will be about 10Lbs and will need to extend about 10”. Is this possible? if so, how hard would it be for a newbe be to program? Thanks in advance for the advice!!! Ive attached a crude drawing.

Topic by tincupchalice    |  last reply


I want to automatically open and close a door using a Linear Actuator on a timer?

I want to hook up a 12 volt linear actuator to a door hooked to a 110 volt timer with a plug on the bottom so when the timer turns the power on the plug will energize and the LA will open the door, and when the next set of pins on the timer come around it powers the plug again sending power to the LA again to close it, i obviously have to power the LA with a 110 v AC to 12 v dc converter, and most of the Linear Actuators have internal limit switches, so how can i revers the LA? Or do i need an AC Linear Actuator? The timer simply powers the plug on the bottom of it when the tab comes around and the next tab will be set to turn it off, in other words open in the morning and close at night, im thinking i need some switch with relays? any help would be apreciated.

Question by robinthedark    |  last reply


stewart platform with firgelli linear actuator using arduino codeing help!

I am building a stewart platform as part of a larger assembly to accuratly position an object in all six degrees (transition in x,y,z) and rotation about each of these (pitch, yaw, roll). I plan to use an arduino board and 6 firgelli linear actuators. Any help on how to go about programming this would be a great help, or if anyone knows of any open source code so that I do not have to do the reverse kinematics as Im not strong enough in math to do so. ive attached a pic screenshot of my design. thanks

Topic by habbi_88    |  last reply


I'm seeking advice on making a remote-controlled linear actuator (for a prank tv show) Answered

Hi all, I'm working on a hidden camera prank tv show and some of the pranks call for things (bookshelves, statues, a tv wall mount) to suddenly fall apart. I've been trying to figure out how to build a small, powerful actuator into the breakaway props, something that I can control remotely. My idea is that the actuator will retract and thereby pull a pin out of something that it is holding up, causing the thing to fall. I'm seeking your advice!!! :) Ideally I would love it if the entire system was small enough (batteries, receiver and actuator) to hide in the props. Do you know any good websites to look at? Any specific products I should check out? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks, DAZU

Question by damianzuch    |  last reply


Small Temperature Controlled Relay Circuit? Answered

I'd like to build a small temperature controlled relay circuit. I need to sense water temperature and send +12vdc if temp is <95F and -12vdc if >104F. It's driving a linear actuator so it should advance the rod (+12v) at low (<95F) temperature, hold position (0v) between 95 and 104, and retract the rod (-12v) at high temperature. (>104F) Any circuit suggestions? Thanks.

Question by dmcgraw7    |  last reply


Id Like help using a Linear Actuator and a locking mechanism with only one or two momentary switches, not toggle. Ideas?

Hello, I am healthcare professional and a DIY enthusiast, but not mechanically or electrically inclined.  Keep that in mind with your answers.   I am redoing my closet in the next few weeks and do not have the space or money for a large gun safe.  My idea is that when building this closet I will build a stand up drawer using several slide mechanisms for the motion.  To keep this hidden and secure and darn right cool I envision using a linear actuator to open and close this hidden drawer.  I will also be using one to two electric strike modules to keep this secure.  My goal is to have one secret hidden BUTTON (not switch) that will trigger the locking mechanism and shortly after if not simultaneously activate the linear actuator.  The key here is I want to push a momentary button, not hold it, not use switches ect, just hold it until the drawer is completely open.   Second motion will be either the same button or a different MOMENTARY BUTTON is depressed activating a reversal on the actuator until fully closed in which the locking mechanism should activate (always closed).   That is my goal, I'm open to servos and such if anyone can SHOW me how it is done.  If you can show me wiring that would be best as words just don't work as much as pictures or videos for me.  I greatly appreciate all your help in advance and please remember NO TOGGLE Switches or factory wired remote controls.  I'm open to all ideas except those.  Thanks again guys.  Love your work and ideas.   T

Question by medictim    |  last reply


How to get a linear actuator to open &amp; close a door &amp; switch a relay at the end of the stroke so it reverses direction Answered

 It would be simple with a manual relay switch but  I don't want to have to be there to throw the switch. I want a timer to do it each morn and eve so the door opens at one time then next time timer comes on it closes. The Linear actuator has limit switches to stop the motion at the end of the stroke. I need the next time it powers up to reverse motor direction.  Also will need to get power from 110v timer switch to 12v power supply to the LA    Also if it is powered from the timer I use now to power the lights, they will stay on for 2 hours then off. So the relay must not send power back right away but delay until the power goes off and the next time it powers up then send it to the LA. Or I need a separate battery power source and timer that will just give power long enough for one stoke then off. Not sure how to do that. Any electrical wiz kids out there can help me with this?

Question by Wellthmaker    |  last reply


LINEAR ACTUATOR STEPPER MOTOR using Arduino Uno, DRV8825 and Sensor

Am already a year working as an amateur electronics. Sorry for my English, am 74 years and never learned the language. Now I'm managed to 17HS2408S, a DRV8825 with a servo and Arduino to this linear to run back and forth just over 35 cm (6400 full steps). This runs as desired in terms of distance. Now I would like to have with use of a Sensor that if he is activated the stepper make one run forward en back. To this end, the program should stop after one full run on contact from the sensor (Pir, LDR or photocell). Who can help me to customize the code that it stops after one time through the code, and how and where to connect a sensor to start the program.Foto connections and Servo_Test_3.ino

Topic by PierreV16  


My actuator died after just 2 months. Was the relay the villain?

I set up a linear actuator on a timer with a relay and 12 Volt 5 Amp battery exactly like to project you show on your site. It worked like a champ for about 2 months the stopped. I thought maybe the battery need a recharge but that wasn't the issue. When the switch opens and remains open the red light on top of the relay remains on. I keep the door open for about 4 hours in the morning then it closes. It opens again for about 4 hours before dusk then closes again until the next morning. My concern is that the red light on the relay is indicating that the switch is on continuously sending electricity to the actuator. After 2 months it just fried the actuator.  I took apart the actuator and it looks like its brand new with no black spots on the copper wires. I'm hoping I just have a bad actuator.

Question by Joenjmortgage    |  last reply


Project idea for artificial lift

Hi Team,I want to develop a prototype of Artificial liftThe requirement of my project is that it should be based on arduino.Till now, I have thought of having a robo car which will have a robotic arm and attached to it will be linear actuator.The robo car will help me go to the well, robotic arm will be above the well and linear actuator will go inside the well and measure temperature and humidity and come backThe problem is that I am not able to get all the things and attach to each other. If I get a robo car, then I will not get a place where I will attach robotic arm.Kindly help me and also suggest me some ideas. I have bought a meped mechanical spider.Thanks & regards,

Question by jhaamit6666  


How do you hook up a linear actuator to be controlled with PWM / R/C?

Hi Everybody, I'm working on a robotics project requiring strong linear actuators(LAs). For the most part I see that using LAs is the same as using DC motors. The red and black cables of the LA would connect to the motor +/- terminals of a motor controller. The main power source would connect to the battery +/- terminals of the motor controllers, and the motor controllers input could then come from a microcontroller or single board computer (SBC) using PWM / R/C control. This should allow me to control the direction and the speed of extension. However, for my application I and going to need multiple LAs the need to extend exactly in sync. The best way I can think to do that is to sense their individual extensions and program the LAs so that they stay in sync with each other. From what I've seen what I'm looking for are LAs with built-in limit switches and potentiometers.  What I don't know is how to hook these up to their motor controllers and microcontroller/SBC. An example I'm looking at is this one from Firgelli Automations: http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=94&products;_id=159. Unlike hobby servos this LA has 5 wires. Two are the positive and negative power wires and the other three relate to the potentiometer. I know you can control the extension this way but so far I've only found youtube videos and couldn't see how they hooked everything up. This datasheet for different LA (http://www.firgelli.com/Uploads/L12_datasheet.pdf) helped me understand what the potentiometer wires do, but not how to use them with a PWM microcontroller. Does anybody have experience with this? Thanks for reading

Topic by honor_the_ways    |  last reply


Request: How to wire a Firgelli L16P to an arduino

Hi, everybody. If you followed my instructables you know I'm always building robots.  I'm trying to assemble a Stewart platform using Firgelli L16P linear actuators.  My problem is that I can't seem to get the Arduino PWM to talk to the firgelli RC servo interface.  I have... - 12v running to controller pins 1 (-) and 2 (+) - arduino PWM pin 3 to controller pin 3 - controller pin 1 to arduino GND (for common ground) and I'm running a version of the servo sweep example sketch, modified to run on pin 3. The actuator doesn't move. I've tested the control board with the PC control software from Firgelli (works) and I've tested the arduino with a TowerPro SG5010 I had lying around (also works). Notice the controller LED will NOT come on in this configuration, but once I remove the common ground the light turns on. So what am I missing?

Topic by aggrav8d    |  last reply


Power supply amp measurement?

My power supply says it can supply 12 Volts @ 10 amps.  It used to power 2 linear actuators drawing max 4.6 amps each, but no longer does. It still supplies 12V measured by multimeter. Is there an easy way to figure out how many amps it now supplies?

Question by thisisted    |  last reply


Need help making pop up speakers

So im trying to make a pair of popup speakers for my desk. I dont even mind it being pop up empty rectangular boxes (platforms) in which i can put in some portable Bluetooth speakers. I have attached a picture of a popup socket. Im not sure how it works though. I know you can use linear actuators but im not sure that will work or maybe i havent found the right ones. please if someone could help me

Topic by mmathavan    |  last reply


DIY WiFi Door opener/closer

Let's pretend for a second that I know nothing about electronics, but I'm VERY good at following directions/tutorials.I have a goat barn that is far enough away from the house so that I'd like to have a linear actuated door that I can open/close from my phone at my convenience. But I have a couple other needs that could make this difficult.Needs: Wifi enabled to open/close from smartphone Manual opening/closing as well View webcam feedThat's at a minimum.Wants (in the future or to be added later): add a speaker to play an audio file to call the dog/goats in before closing the door. add a timer for an automatic feeder for the dog/goats.I think that's all. If anyone could help me out, it'd be greatly appreciated.

Question by beoirsicnarf    |  last reply


Are there any common timers that are programmable to the second? (my sprinkler timer is programmable only to the minute)

We are using a sprinkler timer to automate the opening and closing of a ball valve by linear actuator. The problem is the sprinkler timer is only programmable to the minute, so it opens, lets water flow for a minute, and then closes. This wastes water as we only need to empy the tank for 10-ish seconds. Any timers that are programmable to the second?

Question by paulpaulpaulpaul    |  last reply


DIY Working Iron man

Here's an idea that someone can use for the robot contest if they want, I would but I just don't have the money.You buy 4 linear actuators (such as the ones here: http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=91&products;_id=7)And you attach one to each limb, giving you super strength.I just don't have like 500 dollars to spend

Topic by guyfrom7up    |  last reply


Hiding ceiling projector

UPDATE! made some progress and have it all set up, its in the finishing touches area now. :) Items used- -12 in AC linear actuator -3 way switch - 4x draw slides - MDF - PVC - ceiling tile - various sizes of wood for frame for the actuator. ______________________________________________________________________________________ I have an idea for my ceiling mounted projector to hide in the ceiling tile and then lower down when a button is pressed. however I have no idea how to execute it. in theory I would need a motor to pull up and lower down the tile that the projector is mounted to and then run the cables down the wall to a switch. but I turn to you instructables to tell me how to make the motor stop when the tile is low enough on the cable and when it rises back into place with the other tiles. Sort of like an automatic window on a car. with the push of a button it goes into place and when the button is pushed again it rises back.?

Topic by cooy    |  last reply


Robot neck design?

I dont know if anyone is familiar with the Star Wars Old republic T3-M3 Droid. I have just stated building a full size replica of this Droid but could do with some advice on the neck mechanism. The head is going to be reasonably heavy but I want it to be able to pan, tilts and rotate reasonably fast. I have looked at using servos to control the pan and tilt and motor to rotate or i could use linear actuators. Does anyone have any ideas on how I could build a simple but effective system, or even better have any working models of drawings I could look at to get some inspiration, I have builders block.

Question by DELETED_podpadstudios    |  last reply


Advice on building a RC projector enclosure

I have a video projector mounted on the underside of a moveable wood panel on my patio ceiling (see pic, the yellow plastic would be removed) that I'd like to build an enclosure for that won't break the bank. Since it is too high to reach, ideally (with some help) I can construct an enclosure for when it is not in use, that I can remotely adjust to use the projector (for example; via linear actuator or screw drive, etc.). The challenge is the projector has fans and cooling vents on the sides which need clearance to be effective, so three sides of the projector must be clear (the third is the front w/ the lens). All told, the vertical distance of movement for this clearance would be about 4-6". While I'm not well versed in this kind of small motor/arduino/circuitry construction, I'm pretty handy and am confident I can figure it out with some help. I have found many examples of RC box openers with hinged lids, but in all these hinged designs there would not be enough side clearance for the vents. I hope my description was not too confusing, I am open to any and all suggestions. Thanks!

Topic by STRobo  


How might I make a loft bed where the bed height is adjustable?

I want to make a loft type bed for my daughter, with a desk / dressing table underneath. However, she is still quite young, so I dont want the loft bed too high at night. I want to be able to move the bed platform up and down to a high 'out of the way' position for use in the day and a low position for sleeping (sort of  'just above the desk top position') But I obvioulsy need to be able to move the bed up and down on a daily basis, so I need something to achieve this. I am looking at what mechanisms people might think suitable - tracks with linear actuator or gas struts perhaps? with obviously some sort of locking device. Any ideas guys?

Question by ChemicalJasper    |  last reply


PICAXE Ciruit Help needed! I'm trying to figure out why my circiut is not working. Can anyone help? Answered

Note: I have attached a copy of my programming and the schematic of the circuit. As part of my school systems engineering course, I have decided to build an automated chook shed door. For the electronic side of this project i'm using a PICAXE microprocessor (PICAXE 08M - to be exact) to control the up and down operation of the door - which is done using a 12 volt linear actuator, all powered by a 12 volt battery (eventually to be rechagred by a solar panel). My theory is to basically read in the light level using an LDR and then based on this level to open the door, or close it. The is designed to work through the use of 3 relays (all with built in diode protection). The first relay is connected to the 12 volt power which supllies power to the other set of relays, and in effect the actuator, when ouput 0 is turned to high (I'm using transistors to do this as seen on the in the shematic). When I want to reverse the the motor I again turn ouput 0 to high, but also ouput 1 to high which switches the the other coupled relays (again using a tranistor) and in effect the polarities of the actuator.I'm also using two microswitchs on the bottom of the vertical sliding door as a safety mechanism, so that when the door is closing and an obstuction occurs (i.e a hand or piece of wood), its programmed to lift the door for about a second before trying to close again.  As mentioned before it acts a safety mechanism so that no little fingers can be chopped off, and the actuator it self doesn't overload and blow up (although I'm pretty sure it has inbuilt protection for this anyway). Ok anyway to the problem, I have wired everything up as to the schematic I have provided, and loaded the program onto the chip (which it does successfully do) - however its not performing as desired. I have placed the same program onto another identical PICAXE system (except it is not obviously connected to all of the stuff mine is) and it works fine. I have also tried reducing the complexity of the program and taking out the LDR readings in the code, and when I do this,  it does successfully turn on the relays as desired. For some reason it appears that the LDR is reading a full light level even when I place my finger over it, and because the IF statment in the program relies on a low LDR to operate, the code which turns on the relays never gets to execute.  At first it seems that there may have been a problem with the LDR, so I changed it  with a new one, but again it continues to read the highest value of 255 (or 1 byte) and therefore the program never executes as desired. I'm not sure why the LDR keeps reading the highest value. CAN ANYONE HELP!

Question by Mattdog123    |  last reply


Underground shelter has plywood as door over opening under tool shed. How to slide plywood off of opening with motor?

I have hand dug a "bomb shelter"/ multi-use "room" under my tool shop (outdoor building). This has taken me about three years, and hundreds of buckets of dirt up the ladder! It's 12 feet deep, and currently, 6 ft high, by 5 ft wide by 5 ft wide. In the middle of the floor of the tool shop, I have cut out a piece of the floor which is on hinges, and can be opened and closed as needed. A carpet covers this when not necessary to access the shelter. Nobody knows about it but me at this point. About a foot down below that, I have created a "false" top to the opening, which is just a sheet of plywood covered with dirt, which makes it look as if it is just the ground underneath the building. Currently, I am manually sliding the plywood off of the opening, which reveals the ladder down, and lights and door into the "room". What I need help with is motorizing this process. I would like to open the hinged plywood floor (manually), see just the "ground", and then somehow, activate a motor to slide the plywood off of the opening. (The way it is now, if anyone does discover the hinged opening under the carpet, all they will see if they open it is what just looks like the ground under the building.) The "false" ground/ door to the shelter opens about 40 inches, which is room enough for anyone to get onto the ladder and go down. I have explored various options, such as linear actuators, motors and pulley's, etc, but I'm stuck. I plan to make a track for the plywood to slide back and forth in. I need to be able to slide open the "door" from the top, while up in the building (motorized), and then be able to close it when down in the "shelter". Do they make actuators with that length of throw, and if so, aren't they very expensive? I've also explored the idea of mounting a nut on the board, using threaded rod attached to a motor, and somehow open it that way. I'm not sure how much the plywood weighs with the dirt on it. Thanks so much for any help and ideas. I plan to submit pictures as I can. P.S.-Not that important just yet, but once I have the motorized opening figured out, I want to either switch it on with possibly entering a code on a keypad, or somehow a "hidden" switch, like what they did in "Batman"(TV Series), or use something in the shop that looks like one thing, but would actually trigger the motor. Thanks!!

Question by stevecinstrfme    |  last reply


Vibration feeder anyone?

I am planning on building some sorting rig.Right now I am quite keen to include a vibration feeder system.You know, like the stff used to transport grain, sweets or aling small parts that run up on the inside of a bowl to come out perfectly aligned.I serviced these systems in the past but never put too much concern into the actual workings.The theory is quite simple.One or two vibrators cause the transported media to move.This works like a sawtooth wave.Slowly up and into the right direction, quickly back to where it started.Adjusting the frequency to change the speed or adjusting the amplitudes to match the weights and other properties of the media is easy - in a properly designed system.I tried to find some easy to understand information on the relations between actuator direction and media direction in relation to the trasport systems shape and dimensions but only got extreme complex stuff.In my small scale tests using simple vibration speakers and a frequency generator I had to relise that it is quite hard to find a proper way of mounting the system.To soft and it is just rattling around, too hard and you need to crank the amp to max to get any action.Orientation and angle of these mounts also affect the direction and amplitude of the swing caused by the vibrations.Straight linear I can do, although still not perfect but anything like these feeder bowls only gives me nice vibrations but no movement.Are there any suitable hobby projects on the web or here?And decent info on the basic design criteria for those feeder systems that are not closely guarded company secrets?

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Need some ideas

Ok...at my other "home" www.geekstogo.com someone came up with a question about methods of making a "sherlock Holmes type chess board" where you could place one (or multiple) chess pieces in a specific location and have it open up a secret compartmentlinkage....and it got me really interested in attempting to build such a nifty contraption...we through out a bunch of ideas on how to get the chess board made and wired up....had some good ideas for using reed switches and either a push solenoid or even a linear actuator (to open and close a drawer depending on switch positioning)...i think i could work the wiring and stuff up...but what i need is some ideas for what to do instead of a chess board (i'm wanting to make this for my brother and his wife and i already got him a shot glass chess set...so he doesn't need another one of those)i though maybe i could make a water fountain where it would have a removable piece (or pieces) that when you put it in one location it will turn the fountain on and off...and if you put it somewhere else it would open up a drawer or something...i've got these faces from CPR dummies (don't ask) that i was going to use to make the fountain (like the water dripping from the open mouth) and either make some of my metal hands or buy some of those wooden art model hands or something...and make it that way...but i'm not sure if that's what i want to do (also not sure if the reed switches i'm planning on using are capable of switching 110v AC for long periods of time so suggestions on materials would be nice)another idea would be a big wall art piece like the Magnetic Multi Panel Mural...but i'm not sure how to integrate a drawer setup in something like that without getting inside of his wall at his house (would be fun though....wire it up in the wall...and have like a drawer open across the house when you move a panel or something like that)also...i guess it doesn't have to open up anything...it could do anything when the switch is on or off or whatever....any ideas are welcome

Topic by crapflinger    |  last reply


Why does my PICAXE 08m seem to be resetting itself half way through the program?

I am at the final stage of my automated chook door project, and have come across a problem which is proving a real headache. To begin explaning the problem first of all I must explain a bit about how it works. First of all a PICAXE 08M is used to control a linear actuator attached to a vertical sliding door. The PICAXE is fed an LDR (light reading) and based on this 'light level' is programmed to either raise or lower the door. Two relays are employed to operate the actuator in one direction and then to reverse it (that is turning ouput 1 on lowers the door, turning both output 1 & 2 on raises the door). Unfortunately I don't have any position sensors built in (something which I now realise I should have done), which means that I have to operate the door for a set period of time (meaning that the program assumes where the door is at). Anyway when it is day I want the door to raise in order to let the chooks out. First it checks through regular intervals (and I will extend these intervals when I know its operating correctly) whether it is a certain light condition, then a pause occurs aswell as another light check to ensure that it is acutally the right light level, ready to open the door. The same also occurs when the door closes HOWEVER there is a safety system fitted to the bottom of the door (an aluminum bar which is spring loaded and hangs bolow the physical door. It is hooked up to two microswitches in series which provides input to the PICAXE). It is designed to provide feedback to the PICAXE in regards to detecting an obstruction. Because this model of PICAXE 08M does not support the SETINT command, I cannot detect a obstruction while the program is paused for the duration of the doors travel to the closed position. This lead me to try and develop some code to beat the situation. ( By the way, when an obstruction is encountered the unit is programmed to raise the door for the equivalent of 4 loops worth of door travel, and then return to the closing sub to continue closing the door. If 5 or more obstructions are encountered the program ends requiring the user to remove te obstruction and reset the unit.) As seen in the code, I broke the time required to close the door into 250 ms intervals, and then created a for loop which performs each interval seperately. I did this so that within each loop (and therefore within each 250 ms interval) I could conduct a check to see if an obstruction had occurred before a certain loop number (NOTE I'm using Normally Closed microswitches: If input3 = 0 and Position < 83 then). The reason I have to test that the obstruction is within a certain loop number is so that the program will only accept an obstruction input while the safety bar has not reached the door frame - otherwise the PICAXE will think the bottom of the door frame is an obstruction and will continually raise and lower until the program ends after 5 obstructions - when in fact there were none! In theory and using the BASIC program simulator, my program works fine, however in reality it doesn't! The door raises fine and lowers to the closed position as desired (only when there were no obstructions! - in other words the safety microswitches were never activated). Unfortunately as soon as I introduce an obstrucion when the door is closing, it raises correctly and begins traveling to the closed position as I would hope. However when the door reaches the bottom it begins a continous cycle of raising and lowering (as would be valid if it were an actual obstruction). It has baffeled me for almost 2 days now, and the way that its behaving seems as if it reseting itself somehow. I am thinking this as I know that the program continues to raise and lower the door even after 5 obstructions (which would work if it was reseting as the obstruction variable would be reset to 0 everytime) have occured. If this part was at least working it would kill itself after 5 obstructions, however it just keeps going. To me it seems that when there is an obstruction and it reverses the door, a reset occurs, beginning the full door closing process. But because the door has already lowered a little the program then beleives that the bottom of the door frame is an obstruction and hence is in an evil loop of door raising and lowering. Can anybody please offer some adivce on my problem? I have tried replacing the PICAXE chip but the same problem occurs. The underlying issue I think sits at the level of trying to match the physical door location with the virtual location, based on time. HELP would be greatly appreciated! CODE: 'NOTE: Not all comments may be correct Load: symbol RELAY1 = 1     'Initialise Relay1 to output 1 symbol RELAY2 = 2     'Initialise Relay2 to output 2 symbol SETIME = 26500 'Initialise the SETIME variable to 26.5 seconds symbol LIGHT = b0     'Initialise current LIGHT variable symbol DAY = b1       'Initialise DAY light variable symbol NIGHT = b2     'Initialise NIGHT light variable symbol POSITION = b4   'Initialise counter variable symbol STARTPOS = b3 symbol OBSCOUNTER = b5' DAY = 100    ' Set Day threshold equal to 100 NIGHT = 30   ' Set NIGHT light threshold equal to 30 CheckLight: '**************Check Light**************** Readadc 4, LIGHT       'Read in input4 (LDR) and store in LIGHT variable If LIGHT > DAY then    'Check if current light level is > than the day light threshold   Goto CheckDayAgain   'If condition is true go to the CheckDayAgain sub Endif If LIGHT < NIGHT then  'Check if current LIGHT level is less than the NIGHT light threshold   Goto CheckNightAgain 'If condition is true goto the CheckNightAgain sub End if 'Pause 60000           'Pause 10 seconds Goto CheckLight        'Recheck light level CheckDayAgain:'*********Check Day Light Again********* 'Pause 10000 Readadc 4, LIGHT       'Read in input4 (LDR) and store in LIGHT variable If LIGHT > DAY then    'Check again if current light level is > than the day light threshold    If input3 = 0  then     'Check if switches are open indicating door is closed (as micro switches are normally closed)       Goto OpenDoor    'If Light > day light threshold and door is closed, then go to OpenDoor sub    End if End if Goto CheckLight        'If either of the above conditions are not true, then return to CheckLight sub CheckNightAgain:'*******Check Night Light Again******* Pause 1000 Readadc 4, LIGHT       'Read in input4 (LDR) and store in LIGHT variable If LIGHT < NIGHT then  'Check if LIGHT is < than the night light threshold   If input3 = 1  then  'Check if switches are closed indicating door is open (as micro switches are normally closed)       Goto CloseDoor   'If Light < day light threshold and door is open, then go to CloseDoor sub   End if End if Goto CheckLight        'If either of the above conditions are not true, then return to CheckLight sub OpenDoor:'***************Open Door******************* High RELAY1            'Switch on relay 1 or output 1 High RELAY2            'Switch on relay 2 or output 2 Pause SETIME           'Pause 26.5 seconds to allow door to rise Low RELAY1            'Switch off relay 1 or output 1 Low RELAY2             'Switch off relay 2 or output 2 Goto CheckLight        'After opening door go back to CheckLight sub CloseDoor:'**************Close Door****************** High RELAY1                 'Switch on RElAY1 to close door For POSITION = STARTPOS to 93         'Enter a for loop representing the time needed to close the door   PAUSE 250                'Pause 250 milliseconds for each loop   If input3 = 0 and POSITION < 83 then'If switches are closed and safety bar has not reached the bottom then an obstruction has occured     Pause 10                'Pause 10 milliseconds to allow for switch bounce     If input3 = 0 then                'Check if switches are still closed      Gosub Obstruction      'Go to obstruction sub when switches are closed and door is not fully closed     End if   End if Next Low RELAY1                 'Switch off relay 1 or output 1 STARTPOS = 0 Goto CheckLight          'After closing door go back to CheckLight sub Obstruction: OBSCOUNTER = OBSCOUNTER + 1 'Add 1 to the obstruction counter High RELAY2                 'Activate second relay to reverse door Pause 1130                  'Pause 1010 ms. The extra 10 ms is to account for the swith bounce delay Low RELAY2                  'Deactivate seconds relay to allow door to continue travelling down If OBSCOUNTER > 4 then      'if there are 5 or more obstructions then shutdown unit. Goto Shutdown End if If POSITION > 4 then        'Prevents a negative POSITION STARTPOS = POSITION - 5     'Minus 5 is to account for the fact that program returns to the next statement before executing another loop. End if Return                      'Return back to the loop to try finish closing the door Shutdown:                   'This sub raises the door slighty before killing the program. The user is required to clear the obstruction and reset the unit. High RELAY2 Pause 1000 Low RELAY2 Low RELAY1 End

Question by Mattdog123    |  last reply


unfinished,5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM

5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM Required Material of project:- 1. Basic Servo Tower pro 9g*4 2. Header pins Male female*2 3. Arduino Nano*1 4.10kΩ Resistor resistance*2 5. Trimmer Potentiometer track Linear; maximum resistance 10kΩ*4 6. Tactile push button*2 7. Blank circuit board*1 8. Acrylic strips for Robot & potentiometer body*2 9. Wires, Button, Switch 10.Balsa wood, Metal, Plastic Procedure:- Arrange all necessary items.. Please go through the attached images  for better understanding.. I divide whole project in two parts 1) Servo Motor assembly 2) Potentiometer assembly 1) Servo motor assembly: – Servo motor as J1, J2, J3, J4 fix the servo motors as shown in image use 3M tape to glue servo, use thin flexible plastic strip to make griper, make hole in center of each finger tie thread in that hole pass this thread from center hole and tie knot at the other end of thread with 4th servo motor’s knob, as you stretch thread finger get close vise versa. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. 2) Potentiometer assembly: – Fix potentiometer as shown in figure name potentiometer as do previous R3, R4, R5, R6 this time place R6 separately for easy access this potentiometer control gripper to pick and place. Potentiometer arrangement symmetry must be same as servo arm. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. Moving a little bolt from one side to the other side:- 1. Actuators / output devices: 4 micro servos 2. Control method: controlled by a PIC16F690       assembler firmware 3. CPU: PIC16f690 micro controller 4. Operating system: self made assembler code 5. Power source: 4.8V to 6V from 4 battery cells 6. Programming language: PIC Assembler 7. Sensors / input devices: teach in system with                         4 potentiometers       Making Processer:- The Potis are standard types and are screwed to the white plastic parts with their nuts. The axles are pressed into the transparent plastic part. The handle to move the teach-in-arm is a M3-Spacer and the socket is a plastic part with is normally used to fix balloons on a stick to hold it.                     move the motor itself by hand a little force is needed due to its permanent magnets, which create a small holding force. But inside the servo a lot of gears increase the force which you have to apply. If you move the servo by hand, you have to apply a much higher force. If you overcome the motors holding force, it starts to rotate an acts as a flywheel. So moving a servo by hand needs a high torque and its not easy to turn it to the position where you want it. ( Fan control modules for engine cooling of real cars have some extra parts to clamp the voltage which is generated, when you drive at higher speeds. In that case the fan works like a windmill and creates higher voltages than normal inside the power stage of the module.) And there were also a lot of other "problems" which had to be solved using my PIC Controllers. i.e. self made electronics for a RC-Excavator which works similar to the digital system used in slot cars. To replace a lot of wires between the rotating part of the excavator and the track unit, a small PIC 12F629 reads the pulses from up to 5 channels of a RC-Receiver and leads their information via a 2 wire connection to a second PIC12F629. At the second board the power is separated from the data. The PIC is reading the data, and generates the PWM output for the 5 Servo output connector. the 2 wire connection is made with a cheap 6,3mm mono microphone plug which is also used as the axle for the rotating part. The arm of the excavator is also powered by standard servos and so it was necessary to change the control behavior from proportional to integral so that the servos move like real hydraulic cylinders which are controlled by valves. I used the same 12F629 type for that job and added some features like adjustable limit positions and starting point programmable by one jumper, and automatic return to park position when missing the pulses for some seconds. The Software is simple:- Its working like a servotester for four axis. That means, every poti is connected to an analog in of the controller and all servos are connected to GPIOs. The controller reads each poti, does some scaling, so that the angle of the poti equals to the angle of the axis and finally he creates the PWM output 1-2ms pulse every 20ms for all servos. Teach mode:- After a reset the robot arm follows the teach in arm while simple mapping the analog inputs every 25ms to the servo motors. Pressing the button stores each servo position in a array. Play mode: The sketch reads the array step by step and moves the robot arm. For cool looking movements I added a routine calculates different micro steps for each servo to have moving start and end sync on all axis. Also added a ramp for soft increase/decrease velocity. Shorter travel distances the robot does slow, longer distances with faster speed.           The program moves the servos at full speed to the next position and a short delay time after each command allows all of the servos to reach their final position. That means that it is possible to increase the speed a little bit more by doing some fine tuning of the delay times after each command. The final thing which is still not implemented is the routine which saves the "Teach In" data 5 or 10 times per second, so that the controller is able to replay it in a loop with the original speed or with a lower or higher speed. Electrical Connection:- Provide separate power supply (5V DC 1amps) to the Servo motors . Don’t forget to short ground of both power source ( arduino + servo) 5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM :- 1. Use of Fiber on upper side 2. wooden spoon is a part of side body 3. cable tie *12 pieces use the robotic. 4. Some pices of wires 5. use scraw*4 6. Glue 7. some small clips Because to attached body 8. small size of plastic box 9. One pieces of  square fiber stand and one pieces small & medium  circular fiber  10.  L293D Motor Driver IC+IC Base KG143 11. Generic Elementz High Quality Nickel Plated 24*18 Points Bread Board*(2 pieces) and one plastic 12. Push Button Switch. Play Mode version 1.1 The gripper input is used to set the delay (0,1,3,15,60,300 seconds) after a loop is done. The switch (it was left from the project start) pauses the robot.        Thanks you:

Topic by aarif1234