Does anyone have experience with metal clay or 3d printers with a good way to fix the female slot on the extruder aluminium block
Question by benjaminjbarringer | last reply
Does anyone have experience with metal clay or 3d printers with a good way to fix the female slot on the extruder aluminium block
Question by benjaminjbarringer | last reply
The Crucible, a nonprofit arts education community organization is currently seeking instructors for motorcycle maintenance, properties of metals, wood working, stone carving, and kinetics. If you have experience and interest in teaching fine and industrial arts to the community, we encourage you to apply! If you're qualified to teach classes like these, we want to hear from you!Properties of Metals & Materials Entry-level class What causes work hardening in metal? Why does work hardening go away when the same metal is heated? Why does glass need to be annealed? This class explains physical occurrences that you will observe in classes at The Crucible. Examining these phenomena at the atomic level will help you better understand metals and materials. There will be no math, labs are incorporated into the class, and there are no prerequisites. Everything you need to know about demystifying the behavior and use of materials will be taught in class.Clay AnimationEntry-level class Create and build your own claymation characters. Learn quickly how to draft and organize a storyboard, then build your own scenario. During production, you'll apply colored lighting to your action scene and then learn how to shoot frame by frame to give life to your creation. You can collaborate with other students to develop a more involved group project. For this class, you must bring your own digital camera and tripod.The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance & RepairEntry-level class Learn how to repair your motorcycle and avoid paying the top dollar that motorcycle shops charge. If you have a bike that you want to learn to fix or are interested in owning a bike and don't want to rely on someone else to keep it on the road, this is the class for you. Generally motorcycles are simpler and easier to work on than cars. In this class we will cover a number of different bikes. With the consent of the instructor, you will be able to work on your own bike in class or choose to work on one of the bikes provided by the instructor. If you choose to work on your own bike, you must buy any materials needed. The Crucible faculty is comprised of Bay Area artists, tradespeople, artisans and educators who teach innovative educational programs to students of all ages, experience levels and areas of interest. The Crucible seeks a staff of broad diversity and strongly encourages women and people of color to apply. For more information, visit our website: Job Opportunities at The Crucible
Topic by plasmajan | last reply
In the past I've seen plaster tables used to dry and wedge clay on. Most of them have had a metal pipe attached on the corner. At the top of this pipe there is a piano wire. The other end of the wire is attached to the table, so It is strung tightly at an angle. I'm not sure how to attach the pipe to the table and the wire to the pipe. It must be very sturdy. Thanks for your help.
Question by rosylee | last reply
Hello, I have a very large amount of manganese dioxide, which i wish to turn into manganese metal, however, i have a problem with reducing it with carbon, which is that i dont have a furnace, or even the materials for a makeshift one, as i found out all the bricks that are sold in this state, are all sand or cement, no clay, not even at the hardware store. I was wondering, if there is any way for me to get manganese metal other than reducing with carbon, such as electrolysis of manganese in some soluble form. thanks
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
Hi there, I'm starting jewellery making as a complete beginner and want to use Metal Clays to do this as it seems one of the easier and cheaper ways to make jewellery at home. I looked into lost wax casting, but there are no studios or workshops near where I live to do this. I really love gold jewellery, and was wondering that if I used bronze, copper, or silver clay, am I able to plate it too? I've seen those electroplating kits online, but I was wondering if it would work after I've finished making my jewellery piece with the clay. I've also seen videos about 'silver accenting' copper clay... Is this just basically like coloured base metal (costume jewellery), or is it real sterling silver (i.e high end costume jewellery). Any insight anyone can provide is very much appreciated! :) Erika
Topic by cindyycindz | last reply
I had posted this on another forum asking for advice as well, but I haven't received a reply in days and I figured that the community there was more into the artistic craft sort of stuff. I like the engineering mindset of this community far better as I tour around here a lot looking at neat instructables, so maybe you guys can offer me some solid advice. I have a series of small metal parts with minute details on them, and I want to take them and create clay replicas of them. I want these clay replicas to essentially be spot-on accurate to the original and be durable; not brittle, heavy, and perhaps slightly flexible. Essentially, though it may sound strange, I'm working on a World War II movie project. I don't have the fire-arms necessary for it, and I don't have a reason to use real fire-arms, so I want to create dummy replicas that have believably working systems that of course are just made of clay and aren't capable of firing. I'm also of course going to create miscellaneous objects, such as papier mache helmets and whatnot. At the bottom are a few examples of what I need constructed. I don't know what type of clay would be the best for this; I can afford to have it be slightly flexible, but not rubbery. It would be handled and roughed around a lot and couldn't be brittle, lest it shatter. I also think that I would probably have to make a mold of the metal parts, but what material should I use? Some sort of molding latex, or clay? Would the clay stick to the metal, and if so, can I oil the metal to make it easy to remove, or would that interfere with the chemistry of the clay somehow? I've also considered maybe using papier mache to mold the parts, as I'm sure that it would be tough. Perhaps I could achieve this by carefully cutting the strips? I've considered that clay may not even be the best material for this, although it may certainly help with molds; tutorials on how to create molds for complex objects are also appreciated, since these have internal chambers and whatnot. Maybe I can eyeball it and cut the parts out of foam, and then coat it with some sort of hardening resin? I don't know, I'm certainly up for suggestions here. Thanks in advance! P.S. Oh, by the way, if any moderators feel that it would be better suited in the "Burning Questions" subforum feel free to move it there; I wasn't sure whether or not to post there since I simply want advice, not someone to make an instructable for me.
Topic by Phaethon | last reply
I dissembled a lamp and found this piece, at first I thought it was a weird washer but I can't find it anywhere. I love it and I've been using as a mold in several crafts with clay. I want to know what's its name so I can buy more, so I will be extremely glad if anyone can tell me its name or where can I get it. You can see the front and back shoots.
Question by talty | last reply
Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)
Topic by Downunder35m
I'm wanting to make a large "cheese grader" type tool that I can push.. It would skim the high points and deposit and clay in low points. I can't use wheels because the grader would follow the contour , when in face it needs.. Leveling .. Thanks anyone who cares :)
Question by Boylanmj | last reply
Hi, I have a. iPod Touch 4g 32gb White and I kind of want to make it look like an iPhone 4, mainly just because I like the feel and look of them but don't have the cash to purchase one. Right now I have a cookiecase, which is pretty nice, but it makes it to thick. Any ideas how I can do this? I was thinking maybe a type of clay, mold it onto it, slip a metal band onto it and paint it, but I dont really want it to be permanent...
Question by owlart101 | last reply
I am actually trying to fire my pottery in a metal trash can/ brick rig any suggestions either about type of clay or different make shift kiln would be great
Question by emmli2oo4 | last reply
Well i'm pretty ambitious in wanting to cosplay a charcter from from favourite tv show Xena : Warrior Princess, no matter how camp and cheesy it is :-P Most of the sewing and basic pieces such as armbands wristbands and the corseted dress are easy enough to do....the difficulty will be in replicating the 'metal armour' especially the breastplate Xena wears...and possibly the Chakram (that round frizbee like throwing thing :P ) So i've been looking around at different methods trying to get an all round idea of the best way to go about it, keeping in mind i'd want to keep this costume forever if possible (with a $2000 price of a Xena costume from Todd's costumes not being ideal) ...i want authenticity, with the armour being a strong and sturdy as possible with a DIY. Saying that the various instructables for Halo seem to be the way to go: Having seen three awesome tutorials that i could definitely see myself end up using: https://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Helmet-Part-1-of-6-of-ODST-Armo/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-Paper-Resin-and-Fiberglass-to-be-the-Maste/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Halo-Armor/?&sort;=ACTIVE&limit;=40&offset;=40 Going the Halo armour route honestly seem the easiest. As while i would love to get as close to authentic metal battle armour as possible....there is time, money, and skills to consider. Also through looking here: http://www.therpf.com/f24/need-help-xena-armor-85017/ I've seen that it might be quite possible to create a two piece mould to cast the items. This would involve making a paper mache cast of my chest...creating the shape of the breast plate onto that....removing the breast plate...probably shaped out of nice sturdy lay (or not). From there.....a mould could be cast from the breastplate....probably by something simply enough to mould around the front and the back of the breastplate....pressed to take on it's form and shape. One side would have to be done and dried/cured...the the other ensure the shaped of the breast plate is imprinted correctly and that non of the resin will seep through the mould... Now. I would love ideas for methods, materials, best way to paint to cast as i am a total noob just throwing around ideas at this stage. Some questions: Would it be possibly to use some as a finish so that the breastplate and other items actually feel like they are made of metal (never mind that there filled with resin)? How hard and how brittle would the resin be? Is it just like plastic? Will it break easily? If there is say a bit of side spillage when casting the resin, would it be possible to fix, say cut it off? What about the possibility of using Precious Metal Clay? Wouls it be hard/brittle/expensive/breakable? Is there such a think as bendable resin? (say for the armbands and wristbands) Would it be possible to 'coat' (as you might paint) resin onto the clay breastplate and remove it to create a replica? (without the need for a two part mould in this case)
Topic by Mavican | last reply
I'm looking into making myself a Go set. It's a very old Asian board game. There are a couple instructables on making a board itself, which is pretty straightforward. My problem is in the manufacture of the stones. Basically the stones are flattened out marbles in either black or white. The idea is a bi-convex round stone, usually between 5 and 9.2mm thick, around the size of an average thumbnail. Traditionally these are made out of agate, slate or something similar. My goal is to produce stones that are hard and rather heavy, to mimic the actual stone feel as much as possible. I'm going to need 361 stones for a set, and I want to make several sets (maybe half a dozen). My current best bet is to press clay stones with a mold, fire them without a glaze to avoid non-uniform surface due to contact points, then spray an acrylic coat for color and texture. I was hoping someone might have other suggestions. I was considering an epoxy/resin option that I could press in a mold, then dry into a hardened, dense synthetic stone. But I know very little about epoxies and my options in this. I've considered glass and machined metal, but I lack the facilities and skills. Stone is beautiful but I don't know where to start with detail grinding and mass production at the same time. Wood would be great, but I would have to find/make the world's smallest lathe and I think the man hours needed would be impractical due to the quantities. I'm limited in tools, resources and knowledge on the subjects at hand. I like the idea of making a mold with which I could press several stones at once. Cheap is good and the ability to do this without a kiln would be great. The clay seems my best option but my kiln access is limited, so firing upwards of a thousand stones would be difficult. So if you have experience with a synthetic that I could pour and harden, I would greatly appreciate it.
Topic by Legion | last reply
I have an old set of drawers from IKEA for the bathroom. It has three drawers, and I think we bought it 15 years ago. It's laminate but I sanded it and painted it. The legs, however, are wooden blocks with metal screws that come out to adjust the height of the piece. The screws were once covered by metal covers. Here's a pic of a kitchen thingy that has the same thing (yes, too lazy to go take the pic, wait for it to go thru with dropbox, etc.). I've lost three of the four metal covers so all you see is the wood coming down then a longish screw. What I thought I'd do is make somewhat flat polymer clay "stones" that stack with the screw that goes through them. I'd have to bake the clay with the screws, the "stones" in a stack, to make it work. I had originally thought of using regulare stones and driling holes in them but It would be a disaster---they all need to be the same exact height or the cabinet will be wobbly. Do you think I can do this?
Question by notalis1970 | last reply
Hello, after remembering my trip to sovereighn hill when i was 10, and remembering learning how gold bars were made during the gold rush, seeing that a small wood / coal powerd furnace( 1 Metre high 0.7 metres wide) made from clay , was capable of melting gold (melting point 1060 celcius), and having long discusions with my friend as to what method we were to take , in building a sodium furnace, i sugested we build a furnace and make our sodium metal using the deville process involving boiling sodium carbonate and carbon together then passing the metal and monoxide gas through oil. and we agreed on this as we could smelt metals with it also, make grinding media ect, and it would be cheaper than using propane. now that i have decided to make this furnace, based on what i saw when i was 10, i need help designing it correctly, so that it acheives tempuratures in exess of 1300C, the one at sovereigh hill i was told could reach 1500C. at the moment, my idea is that i can build the furnace 1M high and 50cm wide (roughly ), out of bricks and mortar, then fuel it with coal, eventually after being pre ignited by wood. at the base, i plan on having a small vent which i will pump air into using a small inflatable matress inflator, to supp,y the furnace with air. at the top it will have a small round hole in which i will insert things to smelt, which lie inside a ceramic pot .in the case of making sodium via deville proccess, it would have a steel pipe sealed off at the base, reduced at the top running nto a deep cooled oil bath also at the top, there would be two small vents to allow air flow as there air must go somewhere being pumped in. what i need to know, is if htis will work, and if i need to place my ceramic pot right inside the furnace, or just partially in it, as in the diagram of my design. i am asking all this as i have no idea if it will work at this small size, and because i have little experience or knowledge of the potential tempuratures that can be acheived.
Question by oldmanbeefjerky
So I'm a crazy HP fanatic ... and I thought it would be hilarious to go to the booklaunch as a Deatheater, seeing as I'm only about five feet tall.I was just wondering how to make the mask though? It would be amazing if I could get something to eventually end up looking something like this:http://deatheaterart.harrypotterorderofthephoenix.com/web/I've never made masks before, but I'm thinking my gameplan would be something like this - make a plaster mask, try to over some clay on top so I can add some texture/relief stuff on, paint over with some metallic paint, etc. I'm not sure if this is the best way to go about it, since I want to be able to wear this after. I'm also not sure what type of clay would go best, or even if clay would stick to plaster. And I'm not even sure how to attach this whole contraption onto my face.I do want to retain as much of a rigid, somewhat 'metallic' look, if possible.Suggestions would be much appreciated!
Topic by grimsqueaker | last reply
I´ve been doing jewelry using polymer clay for years, I have examples: http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2013/06/rose-gold-earrings-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2015/02/diy-accessories-out-of-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2015/02/diy-bar-necklace-using-polymer-clay.html http://www.cutesimplestuff.com/2013/06/leaf-necklace.html But now I want to update, and learn how to make gold plated metal jewelry with or without enamel coating, like these gorgeous pieces: http://www.katespade.com/friendship-well-wishes-charm-bangle/WBRUA193,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/maise-charm/WBRU9977,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/hashtag-charm/WBRU9964,en_US,pd.html http://www.katespade.com/kiss-and-make-up-wink-necklace/WBRUA012,en_US,pd.html All her jewelry is gorgeous to me, but where can I learn how to make those things? I have my own ideas, but I would like to work with better materials!
Question by CuteSimpleStuff | last reply
I have a little ceramic figurine. IT'S LEFT wing (opposite of one shown) is broken and has been lost. Now, I want to somehow use IT'S RIGHT wing (pictured) to make another left wing for it, through casting, molding, clay baking, using foam or whatever. I don't have access to anything high tech. Basically foam, clay, etc. but no molten metals or anything. Any ideas? I mean, it would seem simple enough to just make a mould with the existing wing and use it as a mold to make a new one, but the wings are obviously mirror images of each other, so not only are they on the opposite side, they're sort of reflected. Here is the wing I have, I need to create the other. Thanks,
Question by macgyverunigrad | last reply
I had basic electronic skills years ago but now i have lost it all. So i can pick up on simple diagrams etc. I have tools for normal and silver soldering and have precious metal clay somewhere and sheet silver. I want to make flowers with coloured leds in the center but have no idea how to assemble or even power such a thing.
Question by missgroves | last reply
I was browsing around some of our referring sites this morning and I found a couple of interesting posts on notmartha.org. Bacon Cups >> I had an occasion calling for bacon themed food and my mind immediately turned towards the famed bacon mat. I needed something a little more single-serving though, so I decided to attempt bacon cups. In the bacon mat instructions there is mention of draping the mat over an overturned metal bowl and cooking it so that it would turn out in as a bowl shape. I decided to try using the backs of various muffin and mini cake pans, I ran out of bacon before I got to try as many as I would have liked so I'll have to try more at a later date. Any excuse for more bacon. DB Clay Wallet >> The people at DB Clay gave me a Version 3 wallet to give away! I hope you don't mind if I had a little look at it, it's excellently manufactured. DB Clay makes limited edition wallets out of a material they call Tope: "Tope is strong. Tope is durable. Tope is heat and cold resistant. Tope is smooth textured. Tope is water resistant. Tope is robust. Tope is eco friendly." The material feels great, and I bet if they sold it by the yard Etsy makers all over the world would buy it like crazy. I thought these were really cool wallets and then I found out you can get one for 50% on their website for the next 6 hours. So if you want/need a cool wallet, here's your chance.http://www.dbclay.com/
Topic by lebowski | last reply
I get bored, often. And to pass that time i make goggles and masks, until now ive used leather, denim, hard plastic, metal, paper mache, and even clay. I've been inspired by this game, Gotham City Imposters, to make a "homemade" version of batmans cowl. I'd like to make it out of a material that i guess would have to stretch, cuz i just want to be able to slip it on and off, you see, all of my full head masks ive made so far have either had belts or laces in the back that id have to do up and undo everytime i took it on and off. So my question for this project and future ones is... what the lump should i use (as far as materials) that would be tight (not too tight) and be easy to slip on and off my head, without breaking or tearing?
Question by TimTheScarecrow | last reply
Here my instructableMy Animatronic Mod ProjectIn 2003 I made a casemod MONSTERMOD ( picture 1), Just a creature sculpture tearing out of a PC case.And It Didnt Move . So , I want the next MONSTERMOD to MOVE.Maybe to tell me that I have email.... Picture people's PCs having Heads .There favorite movie star or rock star maybe a animal. Maybe like Hal from 2001Space Odyssey .But, My animatronic Mod Has no A.I. But maybe one day. Im programmingthe 16 servo movements into the PC and press the play to play the movements a lipsync routine.Well, For Over 2 years now I have been working My Animatronic Mod.My Animatronic Mod is a floating creature head over a desktop case.( picture 2 IMG_1383.jpg)It controlled my a 2 Mini SSC II (http://www.seetron.com) this allow the computer to control 16 RC servos.16 RC servos = 16 Movements .I made the teeth out of dental acrylic, The samething denture are made of.Teeth and fangs are made 1st in tooth color dental acrylic and shaped.Then are placed in dental wax .,the mold is a silicone putty is place on the teeth allow to setup overnight.To demold the wax is melted away with boiling water leaving the teeth in the silicone putty sockets.This is called the lost wax process.( picture 3,4,)After I made the eyes out of dental acrylic ,Which is a molded ping pong ball is 40 mm .In half 20 mm sandwhich in between the 2 halves is a metal small metal ball 10mm give me a ball joint and socket.The iris is a painted metal washer. The veins are silk yarn And is cover with clear dental acrylic .The white of the eyes was changed to black color ,To give more of a alien look. ( picture 6,7)I molding the finished eyes alginate and casting them in ultracal 30, ( picture 8) Ultracal 30 is the hardest plaster made.And place them in the sculpture.This will be for Proper registration for the eyes in the skull.( picture 9 )I had to sculpt face in Roma Plastilina Clay ( picture 10)and mold it in silicone( picture 11a,11b, 11 ) This molding process called a matrix mold . A layer of water clay cover theentire clay sculpture and Ultracal 30 is place on top of the water clay .After setup ,Its demolded and water clay removed .This water clay has made a space for the silicone.Matrix molda thin layer of water clay is place ( picture 12 ) and made the core A .This gave me the thickest for the skin .Molded core A in silicone and a thin layer of water clay is place in this mold also this made core B.And this gave the thickest of the Skull. Now I have 2 molds.( picture 13,14 )Mold 1 is the Skin moldMold 2 is the skull moldI casted foam rubber in mold 1 ( picture 15,)http://www.monstermakers.com/foam.htmlTo make the foam rubber skin337 gms. base67 grams foaming agent33 grams curing agent15 flow enhancer24 grams gelling agent4 grams ammoniaThe room temp73 degrees 40%Using a Sunbeam MixMaster Mixer1. Speed #1 - 1 minute (to blend all components)2. Speed #10 - 3 minutes : blend all3. Speed #3 - 4 minutes : refine4. Speed #1 - 30 seconds :refine5. Speed #1 - 30 seconds : ADD GELLING AGENT ( picture 16 )6. Speed #1 - 30 seconds : Backturn the bowlFoam rubber can be tricky.Mold 1 was place in a Hot box oven for 11 hours at 125 degrees .= A very soft and flexable skin ( picture 15,16 )Hot box oven 3'x 3'x 3 " plywood box with foil insulation with a single burner. This must be watched.( picture 17,18,19)I casted urethane Plastic from smoothon.com in mold 2.This gave me the Skull,The skull was trimed and dental acrylic teeth and eyes were place inside the skull .The mechanics were place using R/C servos.The skin was painted with PAX ( is a flexible paint). The skin was glue on rubber cement to the skull .And the hair was glued rubber cement also and placed.Hair is from National Fiber Technology ,Hair 1 was Blended Black and Brown modacrylic with White and Brown Mohair and Natural Goat hair.And hair 2 Black with gray texturized modacrylic with Yak and Horse hair.The PCMy motherboard (MSI KT6) and AMD 2500xp video card (MSI 6600)The case is LIAN LI PC-V800B .To make the lip sync move ,I used VSA , Visual Show Automation , http://www.brookshiresoftware.comThis aloud me to make a lip sync animation routine. Synchronize with graphical audio MP3 file.Not only that My Animatronic Mod looks Wicked ,It Talks Back.(Picture 1st floor) ( Picture 2nd floor)I designed the animatronic so I could repair it if needed, And the support pipe is like a swing arm so I can work on the PC too. By removing the back of the skull. Inside there are 2 floors the bottom floor has 6 servos :1 Head Up + Down2 Eyes Up + Down and left + right2 Eyelids1 Jaw2nd floor 7 servos3 right,left and center Brows1 Nose3 upper lip wireAnd also 2 servos are in the Jaw for lower lip wireand 1 left + right servo gimbal= 16 servosWhen uncovered ,Here is 32 feet of servo cable.(picture32 feet )The only thing connecting to the PC and the Animatronic is a modular cable (Lookslike a phone cable). Which is plug into a modular adapter that plug into the PC's serial port . The end of the modular cable plug in Mini SSCII Serial Servo Controller.you would be surprise how many people are into making monsters. Ive beenmaking monsters , masks and makeup fx for 30 years now.I put my 2 hobbies that Ienjoy together.Computers and making monsters.Im a dental lab tech. for 20 years now .I make dentures for a living.Thank You so muchGary WillettTo see Video Demos http://www.youtube.com/willettfxhttp://www.servocity.com..................For Servoshttp://www.nftech.com/ ...................For Hairhttp://www.smooth-on.com/ ............ Silicone,Urethane PlasticbooksTechniques of Three-Dimensional Makeup by Lee Baygan Special Make-Up Effects (Paperback)by Vincent Kehoe Men, Makeup & Monsters: Hollywood's Masters of Illusion and FX (Paperback)by Anthony TimponeStop-Motion Puppet Sculpting: A Manual of Foam Injection, Build-Up and Finishing Techniques (Paperback)by Tom Brierton Stop-Motion Armature Machining: A Construction Manual (Paperback)by Tom Brierton MagazineCinefex
Topic by willettfx | last reply
My mother's birthday is coming up soon and since two things I know are that her current light fixture is crap and her favorite flower is a cala lily I want to make a cala lily light fixture. Most of it is uncomplicated enough I can do it no problem. (wiring, attachment, etc.) The one thing I am a bit worried about is the actual bloom part. I can negate the heat issue by using an led system to keep the heat down (I prefer it anyway) but I can't think of any material which I can easily shape to the desired form. I don't have the tools or experience to do glass or metal on a serious level. I briefly considered polymer clay, but that seems like a rather large piece for it. I am an adult and I won't hold you responsible if it all goes pear-shaped so any advice is welcome.
Question by finfan7 | last reply
My skills include: Sculpting with multiple mediums, Including wood, metal and clays, basic electronic circuitry, and of course LASERS! I would love to make something for someone that is new to them or something that that individual want to discover more about. I'd be willing to make any size gift package for someone. I'd be willing to receive a smaller or larger size gift package from someone than the one I make for someone else. The prior statement would be TRUE! What I like: Anything that was caused or created with an imagination. What I don't like: Step by step copy cats that do not add their own personal touch to something. I absolutely can't have: Anything that a passion was not put into. Type of thing I'd love to receive: Well I have to say that a basic Arduino set up is something that still evades my knowledge base. I would be willing to ship to an address outside of my country. In fact I would find it to be awesome! And as a last note I was born on May 28th 1986 in Cleveland, Ohio. Therefore I am currently but only 24 years of age.
Topic by JuxtaposedIToldYouSo | last reply
AN INGREDIENT IS A MATERIAL! Using this e-book "Cooking Material", starting from your own familiarity with cooking, you’ll find inspiration to create material from a recipe. Please watch the book trailer (if you don't see the video, please click on this link) Is it possible to make dough with sawdust instead of flour? Caramelize glass crystals like sugar? Freeze-dry a string of wool so it resembles spaghetti? Today, industry innovation has made it possible to transform traditional materials into diverse states. Liquid wood for furniture manufacture, textile spray for auto interiors, and metallic foam for experimental prosthetics are all examples of familiar materials that have been altered into new, more efficient forms. Are these “special” recipes edible? Not at all! What is their use, then? For one, disseminating the elementary knowledge of chemical-physical reactions taking place in different materials, while maybe you will discover a wall plaster or a jewelry clay or something else useful—and allow your imagination to move freely. Molecular gastronomy adds scientific knowledge to our traditional cooking savoir-faire. This science allows to explore matter through new eyes: so grab you mixer and get cooking, get experimenting! E-book: Cooking Material. Could molecular gastronomy help discover new matter? on iTunes Store or Amazon.
Topic by humier | last reply
Here is My list. I recently saw an ible about sugru. Had neverheard of it, before but can see its usefulness. Kind of expensive and not generally available. Have seen polymer clays, but cant see how it would replace epoxy putty Available at craft shops. Have heard Rescue tape ( fusible silicon ) . I haven't had a use for it, but it seems to be a great repair tape. It was available at Craftwood Lumber, so it is a mass market product. Expensive, but can see it's potential worth. I'll wait til. I need it before I buy it. The oscillating tools have come down in price. Not exactly new, but extremely useful especially for people whose shop is their desk or kitchen table. If I were to have one power tool, it probably would still be the cordless drill driver. But if I were allowed a second power tool, this would be it. Blades are expensive. Demolition Bags are very useful and cheap and generally available. I recently saw a device for bending PVC pipe. I have avoided using PVC because of the joints. I prefer thin metal conduit because it can be bent with the pipe bender I was able to acquire. That being said, the Pipe Viper may be worthwhile. I am considering a small greenhouse made of arched PVV pipe and clear sheeting.
Topic by Wilmette | last reply