Motorising boat

Any tips, please, on adding motor power to a 14ft Shakespeare speed boat hull without the high cost of a conventional outboard. I only need about 4mph for use on lakes and canals, so perhaps a lawnmower engine driving a paddle wheel or prop might do it, eg with a design like the fast boats in the Far East fitted with a car engine directly driving an outboard prop with the whole unit acting as tiller steering..

Question by cfhaynes   |  last reply


motorised motorized bicycle?

Im looking to make a gas/petrol push bike i have access to all tools exempt welder i have multiple weed eater engines and money is not a problem i am 18 and looking to put a motor on a 12inch bicycle i would pefer chain drive so a gear ratio? i would pefer it to go fast and be rear weel drive the motors dont have a clutch i have seen the one here but there friction drive somone help me out? thanks in advance

Question by    |  last reply


HELP PLEASE motorised bikes How To Fit Fit a multi cog

I am trying to find how i can fit a multi cog to my wheel and as it is not your normal set up and i need it just like the picture, how to do it Herdan.com a Nth American own the bike and i can't get thru as my emails get rejected and i can't get thru and they know how they did it ....these pics explain better what i want Thanks Any one .........................

Topic by maccaorgordon   |  last reply


What sort and how big of a motor would be required to lift a 20kg speaker vertically into a roof space ?

I'm trying to make a platform to drop out from the roof at the press of a button to drop my home theater speakers out from the roof .

Question by cazz04   |  last reply



Lego Chess Set - motorised, $32k, 100k bricks

Using 32 Lego mindstorms bricks, 100,000 Lego bricks (though adding up the stats from their site it's 97,015) and costing roughly $30,000 this Lego chess set that will be on display at Brickworld next week is truly amazing. Check out the detail on the pieces, I love how the knight's legs move as it travels the board. Though I was really confused until I realised they HAD to move the pawn out the way before the knight could move. The whole lot took a year to plan and build, led by 4 main people and helped by 23. Their site has more stats on how it was done and what it involved. [via Make]

Topic by Jayefuu   |  last reply


Suggestions for design for a motorised Dirt/Mountain board? Answered

Ok guys, im designing and making a motorised mountain board using a weed eater engine for a school project, minimal cost, any suggestions? I already have a design in mind but am wondering what input the Almighty Instructables community has to give  Cheers :)

Question by slipknot rules   |  last reply



Motor for hand cranked icecream machine Answered

He guys, i wanted to make my hand cranked iceream machine into a motorised one so would like to know what rpm and torque the motor should have.

Question by skedia3   |  last reply


RF to IR conversion?

I have a RF remote on my motorised theatre screen, i want to control it from my universal remote but it doesn't learn RF. Is there an easy conversion from the RF remote and receiver to IR ?

Question by sutek 


knex car competion

Hi this is a user competition untill 10/3/13 . you can build any 4 wheeled car or truck , MUST NOT BE MOTORISED OR KNEX PEICES CUT OR STUCK. ALSO PLEASE POST INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUR ENTRY. thank you .

Topic by knex dude 2000 


How do the gears in a car window prevent the window falling? Answered

Whether manual or motorised, I am gobsmacked that a gearing system has been invented that prevents falling that is not a worm drive. Its been impossible to find ANY information about the gearing system that explains this miracle on google. If its not a worm gear, why doesn't the window fall back down when you let go of the crank handle or cut power to an electric window?

Question by zxen   |  last reply


How can i get a rowing action in a knex boat?

Am making a model trireme out of knex for a history project. I would like it to be motorised and in unison without it being too big. I need all the help I can get and a.s.a.p. please. (I've got some plans below on what I'm aiming for.) (In case you do not know what a trireme is, it is an ancient Greek warship with a copper ram on the front, half below the waterline.(see images))

Question by DarkVolt   |  last reply


Homemade skate / mountainboard trucks?

Does anyone have any ideas how I could make something that resembles a skateboard or mountainboard truck at home? I want to build my own motorised mountainboard from various parts on the very cheap, of which none will actually be from a board. The trucks seem like the one thing I might have to buy since I can't think of a way to add turning and carving capability to a homemade board. Any ideas would be most appreciated.

Topic by chiok   |  last reply


any ideas on where to get or how to make a torque based switch?

Im wanting to make a motorised target changing rig that will need to stop against a back stop a set distance away from the shooter. i want to make the rig self contained (i.e. no additional switches etc. down range) so that different distances can be used. the only way i can think to do this is to use a switch that stops the motor when a certain torque is reached.  any other ideas on how to do this are very welcome 

Question by bowlen199   |  last reply


How to wire a 12v motor and limit switches to raise and lower a satnav panel in my car,using the ignition switch circuit

Hi, I'm trying to understand in a simplified diagram how to use a 12v motor to raise and lower a panel in my car,the hardware I can make fairly easily but it's the wiring I'm struggling with,I understand that 2 limit switches have to be used to stop and start the motor,also that the polarity of the motor has to be changed to raise and lower the panel, I also want to use the vehicles ignition switched circuit to raise and lower the panel as opposed to using a rocker switch, Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated, Kind regards, Darren.

Question by Rallyingace   |  last reply


Lasers on motors

I am trying to create 8 motorised lasers that move (ideally randomly) between a 135˚ angle. I doubt with my level of knowledge i will be able to make them move randomly but if i can't just moving back and forth between the 135˚ would have to do.These motors would have to be reversable and travel between 2 points making an arc of 135˚, I'm looking at making this in the cheapest way possible. By mounting cheap pen lasers onto mini motors and somehow getting them do this. I will need to see the beams of light so unless i can find a better way to used focused light cheaply, i'll have to use a smoke machine or something. Having no real knowledge of this, would it be easily achievable, i would use a microcontroller to make the motor movement random within that 135 degrees but i have no idea how i'd go about it.

Topic by happysnail   |  last reply


X-Ray your finger with stickytape!

Scientists have discovered the cheapest source of potentially-useful X-rays.Peeling sticky tape emits X-rays strong enough to scan a human finger, a remarkable experiment has shown.US researchers used a motorised peeling machine to unwind a roll of Scotch tape at a rate of 3cm per second.By placing their apparatus in a vacuum, they measured X-rays strong enough to X-ray a human digit, according to a report in Nature journal.It is well known that unwinding sticky tape produces sparks of light that can be seen in the dark by the naked eye.This phenomenon, known as "triboluminescence", is produced by the friction generated when two surfaces rub against each other.The study, by Carlos Camara and Juan Escobar, of the University of California, Los Angeles, USA, provides evidence for the phenomenon, which was first observed more than 50 years ago. BBC story, with video

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


What laser do I need for laser etching?

The questions says it all; I am planning to build a custom 2-axis computer controller etching machine out of a modified ink-jet printer. The motorisation and computation part it not a problem yet, however I have no clue where to start from about looking for a laser. I am looking foward engraving/etching wood, metal, plastic and some other soft materials. I do not plan to CUT these however. I do not know what kind of laser I am exactly looking for, nor it's power or anything else I should be aware of, including where to order it from. Even, will a DVD burner diode do the job? If you have any past experience with laser etching, or laser technology, please contribute as I would be very grateful. Thank you.

Question by matroska   |  last reply


Sound location & motion tracking robot head

Hi guys I hope this is ok to ask about as I have followed Instructables for ages but not used the forum part before. I have a bit of experience of arduino projects and doing basic sketches for them but nothing as ambitious as this so am seeking a bit of advice if possible. I'd like to be able to have a droid/robot's head that can rotate to focus on the direction of a sound, then if it sees a person once looking in the direction it heard the sound, to then roughly track them (move its head) with a camera. I'm fine with motorisation and that side of things, but I'm not sure if this sort of fairly elaborate setup would be possible with an arduino or would need something more powerful like a rasp pi? I'd imagine that I would need an array of several mics as inputs around the bot in a 'circle', and code that can estimate the direction by means of the signal strength from the mics when it hears a noise.  I think this might be something I can manage to do, but then it'd need a suitable camera and a means of tracking and I've no idea how the tracking side of things would work with that. I'd be grateful for any pointers to get me going thanks.  It's not something I could do without help but hopefully doing it bit by bit and with some advice I'd be able to do this, as I would really love to make it work! Many thanks! Jim

Topic by Mr Joshua   |  last reply


Huge ball valves, worth to refurbish?

I have now already two of these huge ball valves we have on a machine at work.Soon I will have one or two more...The replacements always cost well in excess of $500, just for the part, excluding labour.If I am correct than even these big guys can be dismantled like their small cousins.Screw the screwed side open, remove the turning mechanism and them push the actual valve out.Please correct me if that might be different!The actual problem with ours is that after a few years of 24/7 use they start to leak through - not out in anyway.A visual inspection without taking them apart show build up on the ball part.No scratch marks or other damages that I can see.Where there is no build up it is shiny like a mirror.The seal are blue and clearly show the same abuse as the ball.I tried with some aluminium poking tool I made up and the debris is really hard and baked on onto these seal rings.My assumption is that only the seals started to fail.And as they are consumables I am starting to wonder if it is worth trying to find replacements and to clean up the valve after taking it apart.With only a manufacturer (from the machine, not the valve) part number but no markings or anthing on the valve itself I struggle to find any online place to check for genuine rebuild kits :(Any links for sites with lots of balls valves pictures (to be motorised) so I might one that looks identical?Last but not least: How to unscrew the damn thing?? LOLI tried in a vice with the largest set of plumbing pliers I could boorow but it won't budge at all.Would need an about 48mm spanner to grab the "nut" part of the valve.The pliers are almost a meter long but even swearing like the worst guy in town did not help to make anything move.Before cutting a custom made spanner from some re-inforcing steel plates: Is there any proper way of unscrewing a big ball valve?

Question by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Hobby CNC router/engraver idea

I recently had to fix a friends (chinese) mini router.Long story short short: I realised that those things are only good for a small Dremel but not a real router.After looking up what is available in the tinker areas it seemed the only way out is the expensive way of using servo drives.Not really easy to handle either if you want some Arduino or Raspberry do the computing parts...So what would actually be required to make a cheap but still usable tabletop router that can handle 10mm playwood or work with (at least) Aluminium?In most if not all cases the tool will limit the movement speeds quite drastically.If neither makes any sense to force the rotating tool through the material, nor to make several high speed passes to get the results.Even when engraving stone or aluminium (dry) you can only do it so fast.The hobby market is full of Arduino or Raspberry based router projects but most, if not all use standard Nema motors for the positioning.As a lot came from the 3D printing area I guess it just made sense.And if you want to run servo drives or similar you won't control them with some cheap Arduino.Nema motors however suffer from the problem of limited torque at higher speeds.And using normal gearboxes only goes so far as the higher the reduction, the lower the resulting max speed will be.Means in the real world a Nema motor would struggle with any gearbox to get a reasonable speed to work with high loads.I think the way out could be to use external encoders for the positioning.Like on the early ink jet printers the slotted band attached to the printhead did.Or if you are old enough you still remember the mechanical mouse that stopped working once the code wheels were full of dust.The Idea came to me when servicing a geared motor for a 8-way valve.Just a cheap Mabuchi RS555 style motor and a planetary gear box.Together they produce a whopping 800nM of torque and literally no backlash at all on the output side.High resolution encoder wheels with sensor are available quite cheap as well.I did some very basic math on the accuracy side of things based on a table size of 1.2x1.2m.Using a chain drive we are looking at less than 1/2 mm using standard chains and below 1/10 of a mm using tight, precision chains.Going lead screw and heavy duty, high torque the accuracy is about the same as on a good 3D printer but the speed will be quite slow - I guesstimated around 3-4mm/s.A heavy duty belt drive system seems to be perfect as we can adjust the drive pulley size to match the gear ratio and speed requirements.Chains work fine as well here but usually mean a higher overall cost.The benefits are really high torque with more than reasonable speed is possible.The mechanics and electronics can be kept very simple.No high speed processor required, a simple 8-bit Arduino Mega will do fine.No expensive motor controllers, just a simple DC motor driver with PWM control.Extreme holding torque when an axis is not moving thanks to the gearbox.Code sensor can be driven by the belt or chain to get direct distance measurements.Downsides of the approach....The initial costs will be higher than standard Nema motor based solutions.To my knowledge there is no Open Source project for this kind of approach available (yet).With the heavy duty mechanics it won't be very portable, best to have it stationary mounted somewhere in the workshop.Quick reversing of the direction will require suitable DC motor drivers that can not only reverse the polarity but also provide the option for a break resistor to allow a fast stop of the motor without backfeeding generated electricity.Getting 3 dimensions would require a motorised table which can be a challenge if you need to support a loaf of weight and stay steady while a tool causes a lot of pushing in all sorts of directions.Probably a sissor lift system in all four corners would work best here.Happy tinkering! ;)And if the idea is already out and in use just forget about it LOL

Topic by Downunder35m 


Mono pole / single pole magnets!?

I made a quite intersting discovery today.The use of mixed orientations for a stronger or more directed field on one side and a much weaker on the other side of a magnet is nothing new. But if you check modern wind turbines or even just any old hard drive you find "chokes". I talked about shielding before but combining shielding a choking provides again another level of manipulation.If you ask anyone who claims to know magentic field or sience in general then you right away hear: There is no such thing as magnet with just a single pole!Like a battery one pole can't exist without the other!Keep going and your conversation parten either get angry or declares you a nut case.Also said before: The laws of nature and physics are not set in stone or complete for that matter!We only use what we know, or to be precise what we told to take as facts.A magnet with just one pole is impossible to manufacture, if you only think like making the magnet like any other magnet.Even cutting it in half will only give you two normal magnets again.Why is that so?How are magnets made is what you need to know.No matter the material they start as a blank and during the final processing an intense electromagnetic field is used to "prime" them.Like you would do on a screwdriver the material then keeps the "charge" and becomes magnetic.And this process requires a certain orientation.Imagine a big hydraulic press to make the magnet with some super strong electromagnets right beside the forms.Explains why you won't find a block magnet with the poles on opposing corners - the form is not designed to be rotated ;)Ferrite magnets can often be machined.If you mark the field direction of a block then you could just cut it into the shape you need.Like a half moon, triangle, pyramid...The orientation does not change, so you need to create the cuts so your required orientation matches the orignal block.Creates a lot of waste, is messy and often the magnets shatter.Still not possible to create a mono pole ;)But it allows for a great deal of field manipulations.For example a thick north and a thin south pole would show very different field strengths at the poles.How to create a mono or single pole magnet then??If you think outside modern science restraints it is suprisingly easy!You see, unlike a battery the magnet does not care if the "current" flows back to its own pole or a pole from a different magnet.In a hard drive the choked magnets have a field strength between them that is not just twice as much as th one from a single magnet.The field between the magnets is very stable too!No matter where you measure it is the same.Place two magnets in the same configuration with the choke and all you get between them is a mess.To understand the reality with magnets I need to explain a bit more though:If it does not matter from where to where the field lines go the it becomes obvious that you can guide them.Horse shoe magnets of the old kind where just two steel bars with a block magnet between them!Take a compass and check from what distance your magnet will start to affect the orientation.Now take two iron bars, rods, block or similar of about twice that length.Place the compass between one end and the magnet between the other end.Even with a little gap your compass will still move!You just extended the length of the field lines and directed them somewhere else as it also works with odd shapes.We know know and confirmed how choking works and as shielding is basically the same thing but for a different purpose you might get an idea where I am heading already.A "potted" magnet, like what you find in a speaker or as a hook magnet utilises two destinct features.a) A ring magnet is used.b) The field lines are directed to a specific area.One has them directed into a gap for a coil like in a wind turbine, the other to the surface to massively increase the field strenght in that area.If you take either apart you will notice the magnet just by itself is considerably weaker.Removing a pole from a magnet...If you paid attention so far and have a few magnets around then you already developed a feeling for the difference.Lets crank it up a notch, shall we?Make this experiment:Take two identical magnets and a soft steel bar or similar of lesser thickness than the magnets.Usually around 2-3mm for smaller N52 Neodymiums will do.If you dare make the steel the same size as the magnets.Now place one magnet on the steel and use the other to observe the difference in feel.There won't be much and both poles should still fell like before only that the field is now slightly longer.Trying to get two magnets to touch at the same pole is really hard, but see what happens if you add the other magnet on the other side of the steel...Despite having the same pole on the steel they won't repel and stick to the steel.Checking the field now with a magnet provides a very different feel!It is like having a magnet with a split pole where the opposing pole now is in the center.Impossible I know but you have it in your hand, so deal with the explanation yourself ;)And if that is so damn easy then how hard can it be to actually remove one pole fully?Design of the impossible magnet...If you want the south pole only then it would be the entire surface of your impossible magnet.That means you either need to make sacrifices or get creative for the next steps.Easiest from my experiments is to sacrifice like all scientists do and allow for some minor gaps.I won't give any dimension or step by step instructions.Think 3D and use your imagination.Our impossible magnet starts from the center.All magnets used should provide the same field strenght!To be precise it means no matter their grade, the the "force" of the magnets should be as close to identical as possible even if the size is different.You can use stacks or different types/grades...The center is a square block of soft steel, or iron as pure as possible - it needs to have a low "resistance" if you compare them to batteries and to avoid confusing terms.On this "dice" you place one magnet on each face, preferably of identical size to the block.So, for a 10x10mm block you use 10x10mm magnets -simple isn't it.All magnets are place with the same pole onto the block!In out example to get the south pole outside you would use the north pole.Now use six bigger magnet blocks for another layer.This time they are placed in attraction mode, meaning you let them stick together naturally.The resulting magnet will be far from perfect but you will have a hard time finding a strong attraction to the soth pole of a magnet if you move it around your cube.If you check the geometry you will now see how 45° degree angles and matching sizes for the blocks would be beneficial.Using ferrite magnets you can machine them to the desired size and use a thin aluminium or breass frame to hold the outside properly together, like edging on a fancy tranport box or chest.Check the magnet now and try to find anything else but a destict south pole on all faces and corners.No more nother pole....Does that mean it really is a mono or single pole magnet?Since modern science does not even consider a construction like this to be worth testing you already know the anser.For those working on a different level with magnets it will be a true single pole magnet.For the rest it will just be another fake.As by science a permanent magnet is defined to have two poles and to have field lines going from one pole to the other.All modern machines using them operate on this principle and "fact".But if I would give you a block of steel that has a core of lets say brass and a suffien wall thickness...Then this block would appear to be a steel block and nothing else.Modern science fails to see a magnet any other than a battery!If the "current" does not need to go back to same pole and there is no need for the field lines to go back to the outside pole then it is a single ple magnet like the faked box is a steel box.The physical outcome or in our case magnetic field is what defines it!The contra...All good has some bad, magnets are no different.Purely scientific viewed it would be impossible to create a gap free magnet like I described.And because never all field lines will take the shortcut there will still be a small amount of "north pole" to be found on the outside.But if that is in the range of about 1% of the field strength of the magnet then I say it can be neglected for almost all real life uses of such a magnet.Like the Halbach Array it is just a neat way of manipulating and if you like bending the known interpretation of our scientific understanding.Possible uses for these magnets exclude convention designs and for this reason alone anything you create with them will be the target of scepticism to say it nice.Ok then, what real life uses could there be for something we never needed?The question is the answer, as the impossible magnet is the solution.Ever watched these shopping shows in the night program?"It solves problems you didn't even know you might get..."Means that if you ever get the ide that your project requires a single pole magnet then you know how to make one ;)All I can up with would go against common scientific understanding and teachings, so I will spare you with my use cases ;)And what is missing here to actually make it work?Quite a lot as you might have noticed in your experiments if you use really good test equippment.Not so much however if you consider what I said about shielding and choking ;)Provide a path of far less resistance and shield the rest that still bothers you.I am not providing a ready to go model here that you can buy, someone else will do that if they see a financial gain it.My gain is provide a new understanding of things we forgot by giving your brain things to work with and develop.You might still say in the end that my way (or your results) are not good enough in some way.But then please also consider how many other people or documents you might be able to find that would have provided you with this information.Free energy is only a myth for as along as we allow ourselfs to only trust what modern science allows us to have.Allow the old knowledge in and every now and then simple ignore what you know and things become possible sooner than you might think.Wind and water were used as a source of free energy since the dawn of mankind.Our first motorised boats used the same "wheels" we already trusted to be driven by water to power a mill, saw or similar.And after we learned about motors we also found a way to make wind - by reversing our trusted wind mills into a fan.Instead of using the free energy to generate power for us we evolved to use create wind and propulsion by providing power to drive the same thin in reverse.Using the sun for power other by using a mirror was seen as witchcraft throughout history, then we got solar cells...Same for heat in the form of peltier elements and other things...Why then should magnets be any different??Just "Because it is so!" did not work for wind, water and solar, not even for heat....All it takes is a little notch in the right direction to change the way we think about magnets.We have no problem using electromagnets to make a motor spin.We have no problem using magnetic field of any kind to drive motors or generate electricity.We even fail to have a problem by manipulation electromagnetic fields for that purpose.But we struggle like an ant in sand hole to reach the surface again to see what is outside our trap before something grabs us from behind when it comes to permanent magnets.Even worse if you dare to claim your magnetic machine delivers a higher output energy than what you use to make it run.And wasn't it exactly the same ignorance and manifested "knowledge" that got revised so many times throughout history already?Again: Why should magnets or their understanding of interaction be any different?If you follow the above with just matching magnets and the core cube then the result will be at least very surprising to you.Allow this surprise to be an inspiration to improve instead of seeing as a proof of failure ;)And if you made it then please post about it here.Let me know what disappointed you with the outcome.Let me know what really got you wondering.Let me know if you found a suffiently strong north pole to rival the impossible southpole! ;)Start sharing, make other people wonder and make them share it to, let us go viral!The first to post a conclusive Youtube video with results is certain to get a lot, lot, lot attention....

Topic by Downunder35m