How do i go about moulding plastic, how to make a mould how to melt the plastic any ideas
Question by johnnywgk
Hello I was wondering if anyone was interested in buying the molds I created to make the cast and carve chocolates in my instructable. https://www.instructables.com/id/Carve-an-cast-chocolate-treets/ It means you don't have to go through the pesky business of carving or making our own molds to end up with some fun chocolates.. or you could use something like plaster and end up with some nice casts.
Topic by world of woodcraft | last reply
Hey everyone i am looking for some assistance or advice i have created a sculpture for a project i am working on and would like to reproduce it what would be the best mould to use to be able to reproduce this ,i have added 2 images of my sculpture if it helps at all any and all help would be greatly appreciated
Topic by FrancesS3 | last reply
I'm trying to mould plastic milk bottles (pieces of) into a shape onto a mannequin..... for a comp...... i'm making an outfit.... and to mould to a body shape (curves)
Question by antheajane | last reply
Can i use my origenal to make a mould, any suggestions, then i'll be back to ask, what do you mean, how do i do that, where can i get one of those from etc. etc. hehe thanks johnny
Question by johnnywgk | last reply
Hi ... I would like to ask fro help to find the proper ENGLISH word/name for what I'm looking for. I would like to make a plastic handle (for a knife) and a holster. My grandpa had a stuff for this, where he moulded it, put the metal part of the knife handle inside and left it to become hard. I have found something like the POLYMORPH but I'm just a little bit concern - wouldn't it be to soft ??? Or the low melting point ??? The stuff that my grandpa used became hard as a rock. And when you wanted to remove it, you had to break it ... and it breaks exactly like rock, glass (it wasn't soft). Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
Question by zholy | last reply
Hi, I am looking to do an artwork where the final product is a clear plastic resin or epoxy sculpture with various items such as plastic forks and straws inside it. I got this idea from resin flooring which has crushed up beer bottles and screws in it, and now I need some advice. Currently I am thinking that I will make the sculpture from polystyrene and make a mould out of plaster of Paris by pouring the plaster over it in a tub of some sort. Is polystyrene a suitable material to base the mould off and can resin or epoxy be cast in plaster of Paris? Also, how might I go about making 2 parts to the mould which can join together and which I can pour resin in through a hole? Regards.
I’m trying to repair a folding camping bed. See picsIt has a number of feet and other blocks made of some form of HDPE or similar. I want to recreate these blocks. How can I do so? The material needs to be rigid but not brittle.I can find plaster or gel to make a mould but what material should I use? Is there some sort of binary mixture such as a flexible filler ?I have access to basic tools and power tools but not a lathe nor 3D printingAnother option is to buy a block of HDPE and drill and carve the holes, but where to buy the block (in UK)?
Question by big-bill3 | last reply
Hi, I have some aluminum sheeting that I bought in a roll from a hardware store. It is aluminum flashing, and although it has no rating, I assume it is about 26 gauge (.019") because if I remember right thats the standard. I cut the roll into 4x14" strips. Right now they behave like sheet metal, kind of springy and difficult to mould. What I need is more like thick aluminum foil, where it can be bent all around, multiple times without breaking and retain shape incredibly well. I've tried to cold work the aluminum by bending it and running it over an edge but its not very effective. Is it possible to easily anneal the aluminum in a conventional oven or using a propane blowtorch? I don't want to exert too much effort on each piece because they're going to have a short life before I hand them off and they get thrown away. In case you're wondering or need more details: I'm trying to make moldable aluminum splints, like the SAM splint. Pre-made SAM splints cost $4 each but this sheeting would work out to under $.11 each. In case you aren't familiar with them, SAM splints are essentially a plate of thick aluminum "foil," about 4"x36" wrapped in foam. The cool thing about them is that you can bend them very easily to any shape or body part, but when you mold them into a curve they have incredible strength to support an injury.
Question by SeniorShizzle | last reply
I have a few antique tin moulds that make a variety of leaf shapes and wanted to frame them. I was thinking of making a cast from the mould to go along with the mould itself to demonstrate what the outcome would be from these molds. As the pieces are antiques (I inherited them from a Great Grandmother) I was not wanting to do any permanent damage to them such as having a resin stick to or dye the tin. Does anyone have a favourite over-the-counter product or a homemade resin idea? I've thought of polymer clay, liquid resin, and plaster. Not sure what would be the best to use. Each have their pros and cons. I was thinking it would be neat to use a homemade recipe as it would have a neat DIY/handmade/antique feel. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)
Question by shoebox | last reply
I'm so excited, I now have + hours of video to cut and share :)Today we:Finished the split standSet the finished plug in the stand and aligned our waterlineBondo'd stand and plug for a flange lineApplied mold release waxSprayed PVA (Poly Vinyl alcohol)Applied a polyester tooling resin with cabosil (A silica thickener) to serve as the inner mold face (outer shape/surface of final product)Applied 4 layers of chopped fiber with polyester resin (took about an hour and we're still a tad bit high - even with good ventilation)Mind you the resin is catalyzed with MEK-P (Methyl Ethyl Keytone Peroxide -- some call it rocket fuel. It will eat the flesh off the bone and then eat the bone.Why am I so excited? Because we finished today and the catalyzed resin was COOK-ING. "Too hot to touch" is about 180 for the average meat human. It's well above too hot to touch - in fact, the radiant heat is a bit much for most meat peoples. And that's with the prescribed 1% catalyst.More information coming soon :) It's going to take 8 hours to capture all that video :PPhoto: Adding more PVA to the pot in the middle of the second coat.
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
Hi all. I have an item that I need to make silicone copies of. I don't want silicone moulds, but the actual end product to be silicone. What is the best way to do this? I have tried looking up but everything is "silicone moulds for xxx" and not what I want. Thanks!
Topic by JackOGara94 | last reply
My actual need is to know some sort of moulding material that is flexible like rubber, from which i need to get a mould of some carving which have curves and groovs. This moulding material should be easy to find and readily available anywhere and cheap. What I have in mind is some material like fiberglass which is used for moulding but should be flexible like rubber. May be if there is some possibility to use some rubber compound that could harden once poured on to an object to obtain a mould of the object. ( Simple need is what material could be used for this purpous or How I could produce this myself )
Question by Ifthikar Ahamed | last reply
Instead of sending a family portrait to my nan, I've been thinking a trophy of my family's heads would be pretty sweet. I wanted to get a mould of our head and put giant antlers on top, you know like an elk or deer. Has anyone got suggestions as to the best way to go about this?
Question by R1Ch0 | last reply
I have recently brought a hollow wearable ironman helmet cast from Polyurethane resin. I was wondering if its possible to take a mould of this helmet to recast it make replicas? any help would be greatly appreciated..? I have uploaded a picture of the helmet so you can see it.. Thanks Chris
Question by chris27989 | last reply
Our company is moulds making company we are trying to make chemical etching
Question by design-centre | last reply
Preferably non-toxic and inert, to make the silicone caulk/gel more viscous, to allow it to flow into a mould more readily.
Question by brendanmccloskey | last reply
Hi, For the game.life contest I want to have a game controller mounted to wood like a trophy. How would I go about making a half-xbox-controller mould for plaster of Paris? If anyone steals the idea I can proudly say that I had the idea first. Thanks, NM P.S Notice how the analog sticks stick out? That could be a challenge :P
Question by NatNoBrains | last reply
Im moulding a model catermeran and im not sure if the vacuum will work or i can use such thick plastic many thanks barry
Question by barrymasters | last reply
Hey again,Does anyone have any experience with this Flexil hot melt rubber stuff I've seen about. It's a vinyl rubber that you melt in a pot around 170 degrees and then pour it over masters and formers to create moulds like you would with RTV silicone (except quite hot). The rubber can be remelted which is a benefit over silicone, but does anyone know of reasons why silicone is better for making moulds with (other than the master possibly melting).Link here: http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/CFS_Catalogue__Flexil__554.htmlIncidentally, CFS is also a good place to buy pretty much all casting and moulding materials if you're in the UK at somewhat reasonable prices :-)
Topic by chiok | last reply
I want to reproduce a bit of jewellery I have designed in pewter by using a 2-part RTV silicone mould. By all accounts it is possible but I've run into some problems when sourcing materials. Most high temperature silicones I have come across state a maximum temperature of 250°C, But pewter has a melting point of around 280°C. My feeling is that the mould itself will most likely never actually reach 280°C and will probably only be above 250°C for a short period of time. But I'm wondering if anyone has actually done this and could verify for me. Also as I'm new to the whole process, any other tips are welcomed. This is the high temp silicone I'm currently looking at. Thanks, -Tom
Topic by madmanmoe64 | last reply
Im buildng a mould for casing pcl (polymorf) there are issuse with using petroleum jelly as a release agent due to it clogging the pores, im building a highly porus biological scaffold for tissue engineering
Question by randomhand | last reply
Hello, all. I bought a nice pendant lamp for my house several months back from one of the local big box stores on clearance. I only got around to putting it up recently, and when I opened it (yes, I already feel stupid for not having opened it right away to check on it...), the main glass lamp shade was completely shattered! Sadly, the lamp was on clearance because it had been discontinued, and none of the stores in Canada have any of them in stock anywhere, so getting replacement is impossible. I really like the lamp, though, as it matches several of the other lights that my wife and I have purchased, so I figured that I would try my hand at making a replacement shade! The shade is shaped as follows: it is a section of a sphere 19.5" across (the diameter of the section, not the of the entire sphere), and 5" deep. A little math (x^2 + y^2 = 2yr) lets me know that the radius of the sphere that this shade is a section of is 12". Here is my plan, and I would like to know if I am crazy or if anyone has a better suggestion. I am going to try to cast a replacement shade from polyester resin, 1/4" to 3/8" thick. I was going to make a 2-piece mould from plaster, and use my wood router suspended from a gimbal (on a 12" radius arm) to cut the outer mould. Similarly, I would suspend a plaster blank from the gimbal over my router (on a 11 5/8" radius arm) to cut the inner mould. Then I would simply coat the two halves with mould release and pour/pump the resin into the gap between the halves. I'll tint the resin with some dye to get it the amber colour that I want, then lightly sand to get a smoky translucent finish. My only questions are: 1) will I be able to get this mould apart without destroying the resin casting, and 2) will polyester resin be strong enough for this kind of casting? Another option would be to make a wooden mould, but I thought that I might be able to chip away a plaster mould, whereas a wooden mould would be a lot harder to get off of a stuck casting! Thanks! PS, of course, if this works, I'll post an instructable of it!
Topic by roboguy | last reply
Actually it is a question again on same topic but the way the plaster has been used here may change the way it can be recycled. I use plaster of paris to make moulds for glass casting.I want to know if the plaster from these moulds can be recycled since they already have been heated for 24 hours in 800 degrees temperatures. Are the properties lost once heated that high?
Topic by patbagniewski | last reply
Hi! Could anyone tell me what do I need to do in order to melt old tires and pour the liquid in a mould?
Im hoping to try and copy or even make a good designed double bladed kayak paddle out of fibreglass kevlar or some type of composite. id probhably make it in 3 parts being the two blades and the shaft. iv never used it before so any ideas will be great. thanks. pad.
Question by padz | last reply
I need to eliminate the air bubbles which form when pouring plaster of Paris into rubber moulds. so i thought i could eliminate this through low vibration as the plaster is being poured and eventually starts to harden.
I´m on a budget and looking for a compound that can either be poured into a mould like plaster or is at least very soft and hardens in a short time without massive shrinking. (low temperature melting metals -> too heavy, plaster -> not rigid and hard enough, epoxy -> too expensive)
Question by Fypsigon | last reply
Hi :) Im looking for a thermoplastic which stays clear, and becomes pliable in hot water to then use to mould , i believe it comes in round sheets. I have been told that it is acetate,although I’m not sure about this now, and that it comes in sheets, anyone got any ideas? thanks
Topic by candylandcourt | last reply
Im only young so i am new to this but im not using a gun for this im using a catapult
Question by sharlston | last reply
Hi Can anyone help this old codger trying his first casting please. What I am trying to make is an aluminium block, 150mm square by 52mm thick with a 100mm hole in the centre, hopefully with a decent finish as I am short on finishing equipment. I am planning to weld angle iron into a square to make the sides, use a section of 100mm steel tube for the centre hole and tack weld them onto a steel plate to make the mould. I also want to fill the tube to make a disc. Does this this sound feasible please, also will the aluminium, as it shrink as it cools, get stressed by the centre steel tube. When I have poured the aluminimium into the moulds, do I slide a scraper across the top to get a reasonable finish. Many thanks Keith
Topic by axus4 | last reply
So, I'm totally in love with these marbled jelly shoes, but they're sold out. Just wondering what's involved in a DIY version... what material would you make the mould out of, what material would you use for the cast, and how do you do the marbling? https://svpply.com/item/1599841/Anntian_Marmored_Shoes
Topic by jarris | last reply
I have a little ceramic figurine. IT'S LEFT wing (opposite of one shown) is broken and has been lost. Now, I want to somehow use IT'S RIGHT wing (pictured) to make another left wing for it, through casting, molding, clay baking, using foam or whatever. I don't have access to anything high tech. Basically foam, clay, etc. but no molten metals or anything. Any ideas? I mean, it would seem simple enough to just make a mould with the existing wing and use it as a mold to make a new one, but the wings are obviously mirror images of each other, so not only are they on the opposite side, they're sort of reflected. Here is the wing I have, I need to create the other. Thanks,
Question by macgyverunigrad | last reply
I have a small detail (abt 50x35x20mm) that I want to take from 3D to reality. It would be easy to just send it to the local 3D print hub, but the issue is that I want it in some kind of paper pulp material, or some other material that can withstand heat and also be lightweight. I know that there exists 3D printers that can print in paper, but I haven't been able to locate a print shop with such a machine. For prototyping, I have cut kraft paper sections and glued together, but I'd like to find a faster way. There is also a production method for pulp moulding, but the shape of my detail is too complicated for this method. Any ideas of production methods or materials that I could use instead? The detail can be split in 2 if neccessary, but I'd prefer not. Thanks in advance!
Question by karolina81 | last reply
Is there a substance out there that can be carved or moulded that can reduce in size keeping its proportions intact. i know you can get the reverse, a substance that can grow in size keeping proportions intact (Thanks Goodhart). I am trying to sculpt in miniature and its breaking my heart
Topic by maninamousesuit | last reply
A future project requires the slight deformation of cut PVC waste-pipe. Not soft enough to melt, just enough to slightly open a cut half-pipe, then keep it there when it cools. Will a hair-dryer provide enough heat, or will I have to invest in a hot-air gun?
Question by Kiteman | last reply
I'm trying to make a mold for an ice project that is a box mold. I want the parting line to be in the middle of the model, and it needs to be watertight because I am using as an ice mold. Any suggestions? Thanks for looking.
Question by bonnijean | last reply
I can not find any suppliers for housing foam!? I am looking for big sheets of the foam, I am making a rowing shell and I am going to make the mould and then fiberglass. This is the project I am going to begin https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-a-Rowing-Shell/ All comments are welcome Thanks
Question by oscarthompson | last reply
I wish to construct a pair of 70cm long carbon fibre rotor blade for my rc helicopter. The inner part of the blade is hollow to reduce weight. I understand that I need to make a two-piece mould out from a sample blade, with some kind of rasin. Any idea or suggestion is very much wellcome. Thanks to all for sharing.
Question by choonsiong08 | last reply