Which motor has the most torque? (K'nex)? Answered

Hi there I'm in the process of developing a K'nex new ball machine lift, but the current motor I am using (the TT one 2 speed- the one below) does not have enough torque to drive the axle. I was wondering which motor is best suitable and has a larger amount of torque. I was thinking the 12V one with the adapter, but since I don't own one yet, I cannot test one. So my question is which motor has the most torque?

Question by hunter999   |  last reply

What is the best gear ratio for my Go-Kart? Details below

I have a Go-kart I am building and was wondering what gear I should get that connects to the axle from my motor. It will be Direct Drive and the motor has a 11 tooth sprocket. The motor is 48 v, 1000 watts and 3000 rpm. The wheels are 9.5 in diameter. I will be driving on mostly to totally flat areas. Plz ask for any other info you need :) thanks!

Question by Lquinn5   |  last reply

spec a dc motor for a vehicle

I am making an electric vehicle. Assume no friction on a flat surface. The vehicle will have two dc electric motors preferably 24v or 48v system as space is an issue(about 3.5 x 4 feet) one motor on each drive axle. The vehicle will weigh 2000lbs have a max speed of 10miles per hour be able to reach max speed in under 5 seconds overall wheel diameter will be 16 inches Can be geared down to attain needed torque but must go up to 10miles per hour. Please include formulas so I can at least know how to do this in the future. I need to know power, torque, rpm needed for electric motor. Thank you

Topic by tshaf   |  last reply

The Newman Motor Challenge !

I was recently approached by someone claiming the old Newman Motor wouldn't be good for anything.Well, I was a little bit offended by this as I already had my little toy version of it as kid.At that time though it really was just a toy for me.Critics still say the Newman Motor is nothing more than some interesting machine.And even the biggest followers will admit it is not a free energy machine, just a very efficient one.I experimented with, what some call fringe science, now for about 30 years.And it all started with math and my interest in unusual ways of dealing with problems.So what's behind the challenge?The original design was suprisingly simple as you can see in the above Wiki link.Just a spinning magnet in a (split) coil.What you don't find anywhere though is real details on the how to.Sure, you need to have some sort of contact linked to the rotation and timing is critical but what does it all do?You can build a drt simple model in a few hours with stuff you might have around already.Quite a few Youtubers are happy to share their creations.The actual challenge is to come up with what Newman really did inside his drum.And also why I think it is not the full potential his machine had.Build a simple Newman motor and check for how long you can let it run on a charge super capacitor.Then sit back and read some of the other magnet stuff I wrote.After that come up with a better design ;)I started to create some 3D models that need testing once I find more free time - should take some leave one day..But for those with little patience and an interest in the Newman Motor I decided to share my current idea:For some it might be really confusing although they know motors and magnetic fields.Those just playing with magnets might have it easier for once as they can pretend they followed my thoughts ;)The original design used two coils and a rotating magnet.If you consider how the magnet creates an electromagntic field in the coils then you have to wonder right away how it can spin.And most designs will indeed need a push start to get going!You can't have electricity produced without the magnet spinning and you can't make it spin without electricity!The current from the battery or capacitor can only flow at the short moment of contact on the axle.This moment needs to be timed "mechanical" as we don't want to waste any power on not required electronics.If you ever bothered to check the timing of a Newman Motor then you realised the collapsing electromagnetic field at the moment of contact actually is in reverse to what the manget has in that position.Unlike any normal motor it means the magnet produces most of the power the coil needs to make the rotor spin!So far for the well known facts, now for my fiction:I would like to call my version the Aussie Newman Motor as all things downunder are just different ;)Here are my current desing mods, that I freely share so everyone can benefit form many years of experimenting to save a lot of time.1. Instead of two coils a not-really-bifilar coil is centered on the axle.The coil is created like two stacked relay coild that have no bobbin and a "dint" to allow the axle to pass through.Without the big gap of the original less of the magnetic field strenght is lost and the coil is far closer to a homogenous magnet.2. The timing done by salvaging a simple DC motor's contacts and brushes.This allows for far higher currents and if the salvaged motor had enough poles also for a very short "burst".3. The axle contact is made with a cleaned steel bearing.After cleaning very conductive copper based lubricant is used in tiny amounts to prevent corrosion and provide a lower resistance.The clear benefit is that with the new timing system a lot more current can flow.Initial tests with a mock up model showed an increase in run time from the capacitor of about 15% already.With proper bearings and a salvaged DC motor I hope to reach 18 to 20% more than the original design.Now why the DC motor if a reed contact or hall effect sensor would be even faster and with less resistence?Neither can handle really high currents without additional electronics ;)Plus of course I wanted to leave the door open for the Aussie Newman Motor 2020.You might now say "Why bother if the above improvements are already so great?".If you followed my elsewhere for a while then you know the Newman Motor is only 2D but I prefer 3D or more harmony if you like.Right now the imagination of people re-inventing Newman's machine is limited.They try to get on the horse from behind - literally.Fancy electronics, machined parts and so on.But they never go 3D ;)You got it? :)There is only two coils!!The magnet rotates, same as the contact on the axle.One set of coils for each contact the salvaged DC motor has.Each set aligend to the corresponding contact.And now you will ask "How do you plan to connect that to a single DC power source?Well, that is why it will be the 2020 model - my time for tinkering is sadly limited because I still need to work to support myself.But if you consider that the original as a good model can run for over 10 minutes on a supercapcitor then ask yourself how long it could run on 4 or even 8 coil sets.And although there is no such thing as "free energy": There will be still space for more coils.Or other coils to just provide electricity that does not power the motor.Critics will now see their chance and state that if we add a load to these additional coils then this will cause a strain on the system.Of course they are correct here.If, however, the load is mechanical then the motor needs to supply basically the same additional energy.Plus all mechanical losses.The question is: How much mechanical load can we add before the motor is down to the same efficiency of a very efficient DC motor? ;)And what if our Aussie Newman 2020 would actually violate the laws of physics?We can calculate how much electrical energy would be required so a given motor produces a fixed amount of torque.Or we can just measure it, the beauty of science...We can do the same in reverse of course.Let's say a mechanical pump would require 500RPM and 100Nm of torque to pump 100 liters per minute.Then we could calculate what sized motor we need to drive the thing and how much power the motor would need.So again: What if the Aussie Newman 2020 would require far less than what science makes us think and still does this job on a simple 12V lead acid batty of 4Ah?Just saying... ;)I hope to have a presentable and working 2 coil system by May, so stay tuned!In case you are faster or even beter then of course feel free to show off your results or to post a link to your Instructable so everyone can verify it.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply

Which Low RPM Gear Motor?

I am working on a robot that will have a grabbing claw, of sorts, and I'm not sure what gear motors to use to actuate the claw.  It needs to have significant gripping power, so the gear motor must be low-RPM and high torque.  The two best options I have found so far are these: 1. 12VDC Gear Motor, 7 Rpm 2-7/16" x 1-5/16" Dia. 2.  Tamiya 70110 4-Speed Crank-Axle Gearbox Kit   If I used the Tamiya gearbox, I would also have to buy higher voltage motors, so the cost of the two is approximately equal.  Because of its layout, I think the Tamiya would be easier to use, but I'm worried about stripping the plastic gears.  Also, I have a smaller Tamiya gearbox, and the axle has some play in it and is extremely noisy. The 12V gear motor, on the other hand, appears to be more robust and probably has metal internal gears, but it would make my robot a bit larger. Does anyone have experience with Tamiya gearboxes?  How do they handle high loads?  If anyone has any input on these two choices, or other motors you think would be even better, I'd really appreciate the help.  Thanks!

Topic by ben_k   |  last reply

Cheap but powerful option for a go-cart motor? Answered

I'm pretty keen to build a motorized go-cart with my friend, but we both have run out of chores to do for money, too young to get a job and are on a pretty low budget. We've already got a go-cart that doesn't have a motor, but is well-built (welded frame) and has a proper steering mechanism (not just rope attached to the front axle). Two questions: Would it be easier to make an entirely new go-cart or to adapt the go cart we've got now to suit the engine we get? And What's a cheap option for a motor that has some torque and can go around 40-50km/h? I'm talking cheap like under $100NZ (around 70$US I think?) EDIT: PLEASE DON'T SAY BUY A LAWNMOWER ENGINE UNLESS YOU CAN GIVE ME A DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF HOW TO USE A LAWNMOWER ENGINE ON A GO-CART - Lawnmower engines have vertical driveshafts, and you can't just tip them sideways. A V-belt is not ideal.

Question by DELETED_isaacwilk   |  last reply

How can I build a RC car from scratch?

I'm searching on the web for this but I can't get all of my answers. I want to build a RC car from scratch, and I just want to buy this: Microcontroller Motors Wheels Parts to connect motor to wheels Sensors External communication (e.g. bluetooth, wi-fi) Material to build the chassis I have a Computer Science degree and I work with embedded systems, so my major problems here are: How to choose the correct motor for the job (type of motor, torque, consumption, velocity that I can expect, etc) The best way to control the chosen motor  How to connect the motor to the wheels ( I want to make a car with gears, but for the first project it will be fine if it's just a DC motor connected to some wheel, without any axle) I don't expect you to give me these explanations but only pointing me to some good information source (books, websites, other instructables). The idea with this project it's to make a small RC car controlled by bluetooth/wi-fi with some sensors and using the PCB as part of the chassis. Thanks

Question by rnunes   |  last reply

motobike from old drill

Does anyone know how to motorize a bike, when the motor is from an old drill? I have been trying to do this for weeks, and I couldn't figure it out. This is what I have so far:I am trying to put the motor on the frame of the bike, and attach a sprocket to the end of it. The sprocket will be linked with the bike chain, coming from the rear wheel and leading to the petals (actually, the axle where the pedals used to connect). I will most certainly need a bike chain extension, so I would also like links to sites where I can get some.Also, I would like my bike to go fast AND have moderate torque, so I need a gearbox assembly.I know this is a lot of requests, so take your time. Thanks.

Topic by YummyPancakes   |  last reply

Remote Control K'Nex Car

Hello, K'Nexing community! It's been roughly three years since I last posted anything on Instructables. Anywho, I've finally gotten the motivation to create something out of K'nex, and also combine it with my favorite hobby of hobby-grade remote control cars.  This car that's featured would be a brushed, but also fast on-road cruiser. Features/Notations of vehicle: Powered by: 12T or 15T Brushed motor ESC: Old ESC from ECX Torment, or Traxxas Slash ESC RX/TX: Team Associated combo Servo: Team Associated servo Solid Rear Axle Power Source: 2S LiPo More details and pictures will be added over time, and hopefully it won't take another three years. XD I've also included a couple of pictures of my current RC cars.

Topic by beanieostrich   |  last reply

Knex Ball machine Twister - TGKTR3 Entry - Now with video!

Wohoo!I finally finished my ball machine. Its by far my biggest build, eating thousands of pieces and many hours. I'm happy with the result though. It features a few larger elements, such as the "Yin Yang" as seen on KI, a switching element made of ball switchers, a large spiral bowl, a big arm dropper and a 2 stage element. All together it comes to over 90 feet of track!The other main part of this ball machine is the lift mechanism, called "switchers" (I think...)They are really cool. One of the drawbacks is that they require a fair bit of energy to work, so I had to gear my motors down t have enough torque. So its a bit slow, but I think its well worth it.But enough of my biased intro, have a look for yourself!Oh yeah, and thanks to The knex weasel, darth trainman, shadowman39, I used their ideas in this ball machine. Also thanks to Gortess, whom I borrowed a few pieces from.Other cool facts...Took a month and a bit to buildTook 2 hours to take apartUses 7000 piecesHas over 90 feet of track!Enjoy!The video has arrived! Sorry for the wait. Hope you enjoy it.Here's the direct link.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1b6WTZWN23Y I had to repost the video on a different account, so your comments/ratings are gone now, sorry. For anyone interested, there was 400 views when I took it down.

Topic by I_am_Canadian 

I am building a v-axis wind turbine. I need to know what kind of DCmotor to use for a low RPM DCgenerator. Help me?

The winds in my backyard aren't extremely strong, but I want my design to work and provide a good amount of power if possible.  What kind of DC motor do I need?  Is it easy to create a DC generator from scratch for this type of thing?  Would the ideal motor have a low RPM?  (Because I'm pretty sure my turbine will have a low RPM) Low torque?  Obviously I'm just starting to wrap my head around all of these ideas.  How do I know which motor to get based off the information I am given from the site? Right now I am looking around at www.allelectronics.com , if anyone knows of a better site that would also be appreciated as well. Bottom line: I'm looking for as much power as I might be able to get, but I have low winds, and not a whole lot of money.  I was thinking I might be able to setup the axle to a pulley system with some sort of rubber band going from the axle to the motor, would this work? I know it sounds liek I haven't done my homework, but truly I have, I'm just getting drowned in the options and choices and possibilities at the moment. Thanks so much for you help!  I truly do appreciate your time to help me! Best regards, Aaron

Question by Mr. Retro   |  last reply

unfinished,5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM

5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM Required Material of project:- 1. Basic Servo Tower pro 9g*4 2. Header pins Male female*2 3. Arduino Nano*1 4.10kΩ Resistor resistance*2 5. Trimmer Potentiometer track Linear; maximum resistance 10kΩ*4 6. Tactile push button*2 7. Blank circuit board*1 8. Acrylic strips for Robot & potentiometer body*2 9. Wires, Button, Switch 10.Balsa wood, Metal, Plastic Procedure:- Arrange all necessary items.. Please go through the attached images  for better understanding.. I divide whole project in two parts 1) Servo Motor assembly 2) Potentiometer assembly 1) Servo motor assembly: – Servo motor as J1, J2, J3, J4 fix the servo motors as shown in image use 3M tape to glue servo, use thin flexible plastic strip to make griper, make hole in center of each finger tie thread in that hole pass this thread from center hole and tie knot at the other end of thread with 4th servo motor’s knob, as you stretch thread finger get close vise versa. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. 2) Potentiometer assembly: – Fix potentiometer as shown in figure name potentiometer as do previous R3, R4, R5, R6 this time place R6 separately for easy access this potentiometer control gripper to pick and place. Potentiometer arrangement symmetry must be same as servo arm. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. Moving a little bolt from one side to the other side:- 1. Actuators / output devices: 4 micro servos 2. Control method: controlled by a PIC16F690       assembler firmware 3. CPU: PIC16f690 micro controller 4. Operating system: self made assembler code 5. Power source: 4.8V to 6V from 4 battery cells 6. Programming language: PIC Assembler 7. Sensors / input devices: teach in system with                         4 potentiometers       Making Processer:- The Potis are standard types and are screwed to the white plastic parts with their nuts. The axles are pressed into the transparent plastic part. The handle to move the teach-in-arm is a M3-Spacer and the socket is a plastic part with is normally used to fix balloons on a stick to hold it.                     move the motor itself by hand a little force is needed due to its permanent magnets, which create a small holding force. But inside the servo a lot of gears increase the force which you have to apply. If you move the servo by hand, you have to apply a much higher force. If you overcome the motors holding force, it starts to rotate an acts as a flywheel. So moving a servo by hand needs a high torque and its not easy to turn it to the position where you want it. ( Fan control modules for engine cooling of real cars have some extra parts to clamp the voltage which is generated, when you drive at higher speeds. In that case the fan works like a windmill and creates higher voltages than normal inside the power stage of the module.) And there were also a lot of other "problems" which had to be solved using my PIC Controllers. i.e. self made electronics for a RC-Excavator which works similar to the digital system used in slot cars. To replace a lot of wires between the rotating part of the excavator and the track unit, a small PIC 12F629 reads the pulses from up to 5 channels of a RC-Receiver and leads their information via a 2 wire connection to a second PIC12F629. At the second board the power is separated from the data. The PIC is reading the data, and generates the PWM output for the 5 Servo output connector. the 2 wire connection is made with a cheap 6,3mm mono microphone plug which is also used as the axle for the rotating part. The arm of the excavator is also powered by standard servos and so it was necessary to change the control behavior from proportional to integral so that the servos move like real hydraulic cylinders which are controlled by valves. I used the same 12F629 type for that job and added some features like adjustable limit positions and starting point programmable by one jumper, and automatic return to park position when missing the pulses for some seconds. The Software is simple:- Its working like a servotester for four axis. That means, every poti is connected to an analog in of the controller and all servos are connected to GPIOs. The controller reads each poti, does some scaling, so that the angle of the poti equals to the angle of the axis and finally he creates the PWM output 1-2ms pulse every 20ms for all servos. Teach mode:- After a reset the robot arm follows the teach in arm while simple mapping the analog inputs every 25ms to the servo motors. Pressing the button stores each servo position in a array. Play mode: The sketch reads the array step by step and moves the robot arm. For cool looking movements I added a routine calculates different micro steps for each servo to have moving start and end sync on all axis. Also added a ramp for soft increase/decrease velocity. Shorter travel distances the robot does slow, longer distances with faster speed.           The program moves the servos at full speed to the next position and a short delay time after each command allows all of the servos to reach their final position. That means that it is possible to increase the speed a little bit more by doing some fine tuning of the delay times after each command. The final thing which is still not implemented is the routine which saves the "Teach In" data 5 or 10 times per second, so that the controller is able to replay it in a loop with the original speed or with a lower or higher speed. Electrical Connection:- Provide separate power supply (5V DC 1amps) to the Servo motors . Don’t forget to short ground of both power source ( arduino + servo) 5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM :- 1. Use of Fiber on upper side 2. wooden spoon is a part of side body 3. cable tie *12 pieces use the robotic. 4. Some pices of wires 5. use scraw*4 6. Glue 7. some small clips Because to attached body 8. small size of plastic box 9. One pieces of  square fiber stand and one pieces small & medium  circular fiber  10.  L293D Motor Driver IC+IC Base KG143 11. Generic Elementz High Quality Nickel Plated 24*18 Points Bread Board*(2 pieces) and one plastic 12. Push Button Switch. Play Mode version 1.1 The gripper input is used to set the delay (0,1,3,15,60,300 seconds) after a loop is done. The switch (it was left from the project start) pauses the robot.        Thanks you:

Topic by aarif1234