Question by sctirvn687 | last reply
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Question by cdc.3 | last reply
Question by fireplug3433 | last reply
I have a NiCad charger (circa 1994) in good condition and would like to use it, even if it would take 10 or 15 hours to charge my Nickel Metal Hydride batteries as I use a lot of them.
Question | last reply
As we all know the biggest problem with cordless power tools is the battery life. One of the biggest reasons for battery failier is because the companies sell the tools with cheap chargers that cook the batteries. The tools I have use 18v nicad batteries. The chargers are the type that take about 3-4 hours to recharge a drained battery pack. Does anyone know where I could find plans for an inexpensive circut that I could retrofit into the battery chargers to keep them from cooking the batteries? Idealy a circut that would detect when the battery is almost fully charged and drop down from the 'fast charge' to a 'trickle charge' and eventually shut off completely when the battery is 100% charged. Be a super nice extra bonus if I could put in a circut that monitored the batteries while in storage, maybe topping them off once a week when I go a while without using them.
Question by etcmn | last reply
What are the risks of using the wrong charger for rechargable batteries? Can you do it if you don't leave the batteries on too long? Can you get away with it if you make certain the batteries don't get too hot? Specificially for my 18V power tools the charger I have is only intended to charge NiCad batteries. The company that made the tools has also made different types of battery packs that are interchangable in the tools, but each battery pack comes with a different model charger. What if I used the NiCad charger to recharge a NiMh battery pack? What if I use the NiCad charger to recharge a Lion battery pack?
Question by etcmn | last reply
Hello, I found this schematics on the Instructables. So my question is, will this charger stop charging when the battery reaches voltage of 1.4V? It won't overcharge my NiCd battery? Best regards.
Question by Zhuna87 | last reply
I would like to build a charger wherein I could specify up to what voltage to charge my nicads and nimh batteries. I'm currently using a la crosse bc-700 smart charger. it usually charges my batteries to 1.44-1.46v. I would like to build a charger that will cut off, say 1.38v. Is that possible? Thanks.
Question by cebulifer | last reply
Have a slot machine MPU backup battery 3.6v nicad. Would like to replace w/ 3.7v Li-ion NON-RECHARGEABLE and NOT have the battery charge. Was thinking I might be able to insert a diode in line with the battery to prevent the circuit from charging. Am I on the right track?Thank you for your timeJim B.
Question by digitaltripper | last reply
I am switching from SLA to NiCad on my e bike. I have a 48v controller, what options do I have? Thanks for having me!
Do I have to have exactly 48v of batts or can I use maybe 2 18v nicads? I was a music major, so when you guys and gals start using formulas to come up with amps, voltage. horsepower it blows me away. Any information on where I could learn the basics would be appreciated.
Question by jackdullboy | last reply
Seems that with a bit of randomnity in mfging, some cells in an 18V battery might fail before others. With that in mind, I'm trying to re-use individual cells after a pack craps out. Test 1 Battery pack from a "drill master" which I got for ~$2 at a thrift store. Google informs that this is a harborfreight tool, so expectations are low. Upon disassembly of the pack, 1 of the spot-weld connections between cells had broken. Since I don't currently have a 1.5v source, I'm using a 3v source to charge 2 cells in series. Only charging for a few minutes at a time. Currently, this 2 cell set will light a couple xmas lites for a few minutes after charging for a few min. I'm uncertain of the calibration of my v-meter, but it currently indicates 2.65v for these 2 cells. Depending upon the source, NiCads should max out at 1.45 to 1.65 v per cell. Test 2: Pending- Ryobi drill batteries I'm uncertain how to get a good read on the accuracy of my meter without a high-end meter to compare against. Suggestions? Hopefully, I can find a proper 1 cell nicad charging device. Thoughts? concerns? insights?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
I need to replace burnt out resistor (R21 0n the cicuit board-the brown/biege resistor behind the heat sink) but i cant read the values due to the explosive destruction on the case.Can anyone give me the ohms & watts value so i can replace it.Thanks in anticipation!
Question by dakel
It's kind of an incestuous list this week, but what the heck.Run out of toilet paper 1/12th as oftenI'll admit that I've thought of doing this, but Noah actually acted. Simply wonderful.Revive Nicad Batteries by Zapping with a WelderGreat combination between video, images, and text -- plus I've got a dead nicad I need to zap.Pan-fried Scallops with Sesame Lime SauceScallops might be my favorite food, and these were near perfect.
Topic by ewilhelm | last reply
I have components from a laptop hard drive and would like to know which components on the controller board can be used to make a voltage regulator that regulates voltages at 3,6,9 and 12 volts.
Question by techfix1 | last reply
Check out these cool batteries! Their creator is Knut Karlsen.See what he said:At home i always have some batteries lying around, either rechargeable or normal ones. Usually they are empty, but i'd like them to be always fully charged. I could use a normal charger and there is a lot of solar devices that charge rechargeable batteries. I wanted it simpler; why hasn't anyone made a battery with integrated solar cells? The idea of the "SunCat" batteries where born. The batteries should just bask in the sun like a cat and left for a while, in a sunny window, they would slowly recharge.For more details visit this site.Thanks!Stanislav
Topic by comodore | last reply
I'm trying to spot weld battery tabs for rebuilding a Nicad battery. I'm using a 12 volt SLA battery for power. When I touch the leads they get so hot they burn the tabs, but the weld doesn't penetrate the battery. What am I doing wrong?
Question by johnnytombstone | last reply
I know that Nicad batteries can be damaged from being left in the car in sub freezing temperatures. Is this also true of lithium batteries? I'm in a northern climate where we experience below zero temperatures so I need to know if I have to keep bringing my lithium battery packs inside every time I park the car.
Question by etcmn | last reply
Hi Guys I have been given 5 x 12v 500mA Trickle chargers with large croc clips on the end. I'm relatively new to electronics and am trying to work out if they could be used for anything interesting. In simple terms, can I use these as regular power supplies for 12v projects? Or are they only useful for charging 12v batteries. If so, would that be just Lead Acid batteries, or lithium or nicad also? Thanks
Topic by wizer | last reply
How can I charge a NiCa battery with a small DC (permanent magnets) motor spinning the shaft by hand? Answered
I can run a small FM radio with this motor spinning the shaft (via the belt pulley) by hand. I think the motor produces at least 3V/40mA. I tried to charge a nicad(800 mAh) by adding a diode to the power wire but it failed. All I need is a circuit(schematic) to charge a battery. Help, please!
Question by kostya | last reply
I have an older (dell latitude c400) that works great, its tiny and weights only about 4 pounds. I got it 2nd hand about a year ago, ever since I got it the battery shows no charge even when the laptop is plugged 24/7. Is there a way I can "zap" the battery or something like that?? I've seen instructables about zpping nicad batteries but nothing about lithium ion ones... Any and all help will be appreciated.
Question by orallo | last reply
I am making a solar rover robot using an arduino duemilanove. I have a 12 volt solar panel and a 9.6 volt nicad battery. I am wondering if this circuit I sketched http://www.flickr.com/photos/56541142@N02/5229716662/ would allow me to prevent the battery from over charging. The battery is monitored by dividing the voltage and connecting it to analogue input on the arduino. When the battery is fully charged, the arduino sets an output pin HIGH and breaks the connection between the panel and the battery using a PNP transistor. Does the transistor subtract current from the circuit? In the open state will there be more than 9.6 volts entering the battery? here are some links to the robot so far! (without solar installed) Pics! http:// http://www.flickr.com/photos/56541142@N02/with/5229716662/ Video! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZkXnul2j5M
Question by Revolt Lab
I work for a company that has a large amount of cordless drills adn saw alls and power tools. I have been ask to see what it takes to repair the battery packs . I have a few questions i would like to ask if someone can help me with ? 1. Where can one find the temp sensor switches that are on the milwauki red lithium and dewalt 18 volt nicad battery packs. 2. does anyone have a better way of building them other than soder each battery.? I found a battery spot welder but it is like $5,000 bucks. Take a long time to pay for that. I soder my rc battery packs but just looking for a better more cost effective way. Thnaks for any help anyone can give. Andy
Question by andy1917 | last reply
I would like to know if I can use this particular charger to charge my skil batteries. The problem I have with the manufacture’s charger is that there is no automatic shut off or protection from trying to charge a bad battery. When you charge the battery for to long or try and charge a bad battery the manufacture’s charger burns out the chargers transformer. My goal is to have a charger that I can just put the batteries in and forget about them until the next time I need them and then grab them out of the charger and have them ready to go. I can disassemble the manufacture’s charger for these batteries and easily remove all of the guts. Then could I just wire the ends of the Alpha charger to the ends of the manufacture’s charger? What do you think? Will this work? Thanks The battery is a skil 92940 Flexcharge battery 3.6-Volt 1.0-Amp Hour Nicad. http://skilcordlessscrewdriver.screwdriverstools.com/skil-92940-flexcharge-3-6-volt-1-0-amp-hour-nicad-battery-special-discount-today-and-free-shipping/ The charger is an Alpha Power Battery Charger with the Specs: http://www.lacrossetechnology.com/bc700/index.php • 3 Easy Steps to Renewable Power 1. Insert battery (batteries) 2. Select Mode: Charge,Discharge/charge,Refresh/charge, Test/charge 3. Select Rate: 200mAh,500mAh, or 700mAh • Works with all NiCd & NiMH AA/AAA Rechargeable Batteries • Automatically switches to trickle charge when charging is complete to ensure maximum battery capacity • Automatically defaults to 200mA charge (the optimal setting for prolonging battery life) • Overheat detection to protect over-charging • Charges AA & AAA rechargeable batteries simultaneously • Will not charge defective batteries • Select different charging current for each channel • Charges Battery Types: AA/AAA NiCd and NiMH • Input Voltage for AC/DC Adapter: 100-240 VAC (works only with included AC/DC Adapter) • Charging Current Range: 200 mAh, 500mAh, or 700mAh • Max Charging Capacity: 3000 mAh • When charging is complete, LCD shows capacity in mAh for each battery
Topic by dp31959
Well, I've posted this in numerous places and no one seems to have a clue. Myself being electronically illiterate, still, with all the technology out there, you can't tell me this can't be done. I live off-grid. We all know how inefficient the inverter is. It's a huge drain on my battery bank, won't function when they get below a certain voltage, yet all my peripherals that operate directly from the battery bank, operate fine. That being said, I have been trying to come as close as possible to eliminating the inverters and I have two peripherals left: 1) cordless telephone and 2) modem The problem is that they run from that pesky wall charger/converter from 120VAC to 6.5 and 9VAC respectively. Now, notice these units run on LOW VOLTAGE AC, not DC. That is, they are powered by the AC. My guess is that inside each unit, there sits a rectifier converting it right back into DC. In fact, for the phone, I see no other way because it charges a NiCad battery. So.... does anyone have an inkling as to an efficient way to convert 12VDCD to low voltage AC. Preferably variable, but not absolutely necessary. There is nothing on the market that I have found. So if you're looking for something to have to break into the electronics market with, here ya go. I'll bet there are hundreds of thousands 'off-gridders' who would want this technology.
Question by basementsong | last reply
I have to build a pack to run my portable N64. I have some experience building with NiMh and NiCad, but I havent built a li-ion yet. Ive done my research but would like some feedback before I start building. Parts 18650's - 3.7V 3600mAh ea 7.4V PCM for 18650 Li-Ion/ LiPo 7.4V Li-ion/LiPo charger at 1.2 Ah Plan Either to build a 2S2P pack or a 2S4P pack. Currently the N64, 7" TFT LCD, Controller, and Audio amp w/ 2x 8Ohm speakers is consuming just over 1A from what i can tell. its running off of a perfboard w/ regulator and rail, thats hooked up to a universal transformer that is set to 7.5V 1A. Everything works but when I turn the volume up it cuts off and then powers back on. I dont know any other way to find out the over all power consumption. I cant just look up all the specs because the LCD is from china and i dont have any specs. Anyway, back to my plan. obviousely I want as much run time as i can get out of it with out compromising weight and space. all componants of the portable can run off of 7.4V or lower, to include the lcd even though its rated at 12V. it can run as loas 6.5V. I have been debating between the 2S2P which should yeild 7.4V 7.2 Ah, and give me a runtime, some where in the ball park of 4 hours. or a 2S4P which should yield 7.4V 14.4 Ah. It would only be slightly more space and provide approximately 8 Hours+ Thats if I am even calculating everything right Ok, Regardless of whether i run a 2S2P or 2S4P the connections to the Protection Circuit will be the same, Right? Pos --> B+ Neg --> B- + to - ( Between Series connection) --> B1 or BM I understand that Li-Ion are safer when it comes to balancing then LiPo, but is this right? having 2 parallel cells or 4 parallel cells connected with the only balance connection between the series. I just want it to be safe. Next is the charging. I bought a cheap smart charger for 7.4V 1.2A output. Will it matter whether i build the 2S2P or 2S4P, or will it work for both. I know it will obviousely take twice as much time to charge with the bigger pack, but is their a max number of individual cells that a PCB can handle, or does it only matter the overall voltage? I also Included in my diagrahm a setup for a DPDT switch to change between pack powered, wall powered and battery charging. I want it to have an "ON" and "OFF" setting. while off, pack is disconnected and if wall charger is plugged in, it will charge the pack. while in the "ON" position, pack will power the device, but if wall charger is plugged in, then it will run off that. Can I even use a wall charger for the Li-Ion pack to power the device, or will it not work.??
Question by supramp