Question by redlizard5 | last reply
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Hello, I found this schematics on the Instructables. So my question is, will this charger stop charging when the battery reaches voltage of 1.4V? It won't overcharge my NiCd battery? Best regards.
Question by Zhuna87 | last reply
Question by rustycrabz | last reply
About a year ago I found a project somewhere to turn an old camera flash into a spot welder for small batteries. I found an old flash gun in my spares box and I wanted to have a go at building a spot welder from it but I can't find the weblink. Does anyone have any suggestions ?
Topic by scubascooby | last reply
So I decided to make my own homemade solar charger to charge Double AA and Triple AAA batteries and I have been having issues and don't know what's wrong since I have made one before. Maybe this one is too complex? I had bought 3 cells online for just under $4. Each one generates approximately 2.3Volts at 150Mah. Together in parallel they should generate about 450Mah in full sunlight, correct? Well, I had already tested them and they did work fine, I gave a small charge to a single double AA and success. I put it all together with the cells, wires and battery compartments and the one way diode. (Use photograph for reference) Once complete, I had put 2 AAA batteries in. Put together they only require 400mah total to charge or just less then an hour. But when I took them out, they didn't take a charge at all....if anything they drained right dead. I thought maybe the diode was backwards but that wasn't the case either. Finally I took a multimeter to it and although it was getting over 2 volts easily, the amps were only showing 60Mah total. Not even half of what one of the cells are capable of. I did have it in full sun too, so there must be something whacky wrong with my wiring. Can anyone spot a possibility of a mistake or do I just have bad luck? I have worked with full size solar panels (100watts worth) and never had an issue like this before. Any ideas? Thanks! P.S. Is it possible that the positive and negative have to come out of the same cell? I am not sure if this matters since this is in parallel. I don't have a lot of time on my hands lately and I was hoping to get an opinion before changing something unnecessary. Thanks again!
Question by Smizz94 | last reply
Hey guys whats up, I'm a senior in highschool doing an engineering project involving cordless drills. As the "research" part I made a little survey (5 questions, takes like 10 seconds of your time) and I would HIGHLY appreciate it if you guys would just answer a couple of questions regarding the battery life on cordless drills you use. http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/599YLYQ here's the link Thank you so much!
Topic by hxwhxw | last reply
I've just got hold of a Union 6V 3W dynamo with lights. I'd like to charge 4/5/6 x AA batteries during the day then switch to the batteries for the lights at night. I'm switching out the old bulbs for LEDs. Any pointers or relevant 'ibles would be great. Thanks in advance people.
Question by ZdEEvO | last reply
i need a very powerful battery (4000mah 10V or higher) and don't want to spend more then $30 please help! [answered]
I need a VERY powerful battery (4000mah 12V or higher) and don't want to spend more then $30 please help! and i don't want i Puerkerts number lower than 1.2. can anyone help? oh, and the size of it has to fit in a 6V lantern. thats why lead acids bit the dust and (so far what i know) lithium polymer batteries bit the dust because they are way to expensive. with a 35W power consumption, its hard to find a power source that will fit in a 6V lantern, a affordable price (under $30) and powerful enough to power the load for more than an hour. (some calculations i did show i need at least 3500mah for 1 hour of usage ) but i think i might have a solution a 2 laptop batteries from amazon wired in parallel after they have been took apart. a drill battery doesn't even come close to the amount of i need and they suffer from memory effect and just plain out isn't near powerful enough (1.5 AH per cell) OR my second choice is to get many rechargeable AAA batteries and wire them to give 14.4V (BUT HOW DO I SOLDER THEM WITHOUT THE TABS? and what kind of array should i use? [68 AAA])
Question by -max- | last reply
I Picked up an old Dynacharge NiCd battery charger at a local Garage sale. What I am wondering is this, Can I use this old wall plug battery charger for the current NiCd Batteries? And If so.....wait for it.....Can I extract the guts from it and use it to make a self charging power bank? can I hard wire a charging circuit and a discharging circuit onto the batteries at the same time? would I need to put diodes in there? Is this even worth doing? I know that I can get all kinds of circuitry from online sources that can do the trick, but I'm wanting to use as much old stuff as I can. Input please?
Topic by OculumForamen | last reply
Hi i was wondering if there was any electrically reversible battery chemistries that can be made from around the house materials like copper wire, iron nails, galvanized nails, graphite rods, aluminum foil, and other items like those.
Question by LiquidLightning | last reply
24V Panasonic rotary hammer drill - battery and wires got hot (drill didn't) and drill stopped working. Answered
I have a 24V Panasonic rotary hammer drill, model EY6813. It came with two 3.0 amp-hr NiMh batteries, both of which had a problem with one of the contacts almost welding itself to the contact in the drill, and also in the charger. I stopped using those batteries. Now, using an external 7.0 amp-hr NiCd, it's worked fine until recently. The drill began to intermittently shut-off, then quit working altogether. I then noticed that the battery, the wire running to the drill, and the contacts in the drill were hot (battery was very warm, the wires & contacts were VERY hot). Any ideas about the problems with the NiMh or NiCd? Could it be the drill and not the batteries? The hot batteries/wires occurred after minimal runtime, so I don't think its a matter of overdrawing the battery, but I'm just not sure. The vent holes on the drill are not blocked.
Question | last reply
Hey guys I am planning on building a semi cheap electric mountainboard. I would like 20+mph(25?) and am thinking that this is what i will need: Board: http://www.amazon.com/ATOM-91115-Atom-90-MountainBoard/dp/B002ZFBYYY/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1315867971&sr;=1-1 Motor: http://www.batteryspace.com/DC-Motor-Heavy-Duty-24V-DC-Motor-750W-2600RPM-28A-rate.aspx ESC: Im not sure on this one, HELP! I would like a rc esc not a scooter controller. Batteries: 2x http://www.batteryspace.com/nimhrechargeablecellcsize12v5000mahwithtabs10pcs.aspx OR 2x http://www.batteryspace.com/sealedleadacidbattery12v75ah20hrsforupsseascooterande-bikes.aspx Transmitter/reciever: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10608__Hobby_King_GT_2_2_4Ghz_2Ch_Tx_Rx_.html (Or something like this, I'd rather not buy from Japan for shipping costs.) Will a rc esc work and talk with my motor? They are both DC but idk if they will. I know battery type doesnt matter as long as the esc gets the power. So I was wondering if you could help me find a suitable brushed 24v 28a+ esc... Thanks I hope this will be a fun project!!
Question by chopstx | last reply
This is on a path light that uses 2 AA 1.2v NiCd rechargeable batteries. It's a small black wire(ground?) that ran from terminal to terminal. Hoping there's a cheaper way besides soldering, as I'd have to purchase all materials for a one time use. If soldering is my only option, I do own a little 503 pen torch but would need instruction on torch soldering along w/ materials needed. Appreciate your time and knowledge, thank you.
Question by jasongottschalk74 | last reply
I have tons of NiCd battery packs and tons of (sometimes) corresponding cordless drills. Only with a complicated discipline, involving several chargers, I can count on enough performance for a hard day's work. I did rejuvenate the individual cells by zapping; some packs improved, some packs died. The 'electric hubcap' site : http://members.shaw.ca/Craig-C/, states that a home made NiMH battery battery pack (several chains of 10 cells in parallel) can be charged and re-charged hundreds or thousands of times, and have a better performance than Lead-Acid... Is it worth the investment???
Question by BobS | last reply
I want to make an off the grid power supply and inverter and i want to power it with a bike mounted on a small motor/generator that would power a battery or just something that would store that energy and then use it for a couple of lights or something. i have very low stamina but a good amount of strength, so i'll probably be riding it for a few minutes or less, watch some tv or something, then ride some more for a few more minutes, rinse and repeat. i know if i used nicd for the battery, it would last a few days because of memory effect. i don't know a lot about other battery chemistry types and i want to know if this type of charging would be too abusive for a battery to handle, and if not what type can i use?
Question by the judge | last reply
I would like to know if I can use this particular charger to charge my skil batteries. The problem I have with the manufacture’s charger is that there is no automatic shut off or protection from trying to charge a bad battery. When you charge the battery for to long or try and charge a bad battery the manufacture’s charger burns out the chargers transformer. My goal is to have a charger that I can just put the batteries in and forget about them until the next time I need them and then grab them out of the charger and have them ready to go. I can disassemble the manufacture’s charger for these batteries and easily remove all of the guts. Then could I just wire the ends of the Alpha charger to the ends of the manufacture’s charger? What do you think? Will this work? Thanks The battery is a skil 92940 Flexcharge battery 3.6-Volt 1.0-Amp Hour Nicad. http://skilcordlessscrewdriver.screwdriverstools.com/skil-92940-flexcharge-3-6-volt-1-0-amp-hour-nicad-battery-special-discount-today-and-free-shipping/ The charger is an Alpha Power Battery Charger with the Specs: http://www.lacrossetechnology.com/bc700/index.php • 3 Easy Steps to Renewable Power 1. Insert battery (batteries) 2. Select Mode: Charge,Discharge/charge,Refresh/charge, Test/charge 3. Select Rate: 200mAh,500mAh, or 700mAh • Works with all NiCd & NiMH AA/AAA Rechargeable Batteries • Automatically switches to trickle charge when charging is complete to ensure maximum battery capacity • Automatically defaults to 200mA charge (the optimal setting for prolonging battery life) • Overheat detection to protect over-charging • Charges AA & AAA rechargeable batteries simultaneously • Will not charge defective batteries • Select different charging current for each channel • Charges Battery Types: AA/AAA NiCd and NiMH • Input Voltage for AC/DC Adapter: 100-240 VAC (works only with included AC/DC Adapter) • Charging Current Range: 200 mAh, 500mAh, or 700mAh • Max Charging Capacity: 3000 mAh • When charging is complete, LCD shows capacity in mAh for each battery
Topic by dp31959
Hey guys i brought a solar garden light the other day so i would have soft light on my table when playing video games in the dark mostly so i can see my drink and food an not have to get up turn the light on or fumble around potentially making a mess. it worked fine then i had an idea to boost the "cool" factor change the LED out for a red one so i did and now it lasts a hour actually 45 minutes to an hour then it starts to flash five seconds on 5 seconds after another hour it'll be 5 seconds on 180 seconds off i think roughly an ad break on New Zealand television. is it the 1.2v nicd 600mAh battery? i thought it should just be brighter seeing as the white one should be rated at 3.5v 20mA? and the red at 2.0v or less? also can i replace the battery with a more powerful one without having to modify the actual electronics? thank you
Question by Scotty3000 | last reply
Ok this is what I have, I am quite new to making stuff, some of it I got out of a portable cd player(which i just happened to get to stop working while messing with it lol) - Button where it keeps signal going as long as it is held down - Motor that has thing on top that spins(you know the thing that spins the cd) - A motor with a gear coming out the side - more gears and a gear on a shaft that is like a screw - batteries, AA, 2 different remote control rechargable batteries that claim to me NiCd battery Packs - spinny wheel that used to change volume on CD player - Headphone slot (kinda think will be useless w/o circut board) - 2 buttons that can slide sideways, and turn stuff on/off - 4 buttons that you can push and do action once - Tape - bunch of other household stuff If anyone thinks of any other household items i can take apart(that my parents won't care) and maybe have good stuff/LED's(I NEED LED's lol) that would help me, I also need to think of something to make, thanks (:
Topic by Coolorange | last reply
I recently got a bunch of solar garden lights intended for a different purpose of course ;) During the modding stage I made a simple wireless charger for one of the lights an it worked as intended. However, while testing the light and how long it works I got a bit confused. The battery states 300mAh (NiCd), which is fine for a single LED solar light and a small cell. The light uses between 6 and 10mA, depending on the current color. With my dumb calculations I would say a fully charged battery should last around 30 hours - 24 at least. But after 8 to 9 hours the light goes off and the battery is down to a low level. Being dirt cheap I tried the same again with a good 1000mA NiMh battery, which otherwise does a good job in other applications. The 1000mA battery lasted 3 days, which again is way short of the calculated target. At this stage I suspect the Joule thief used in the solar light is the culprit as my own circuits don't show this problem... Would it be worth to get the oscilloscope out to check the actual spikes produced by the circuit? And how would I go with properly calculating the consumption? Being a color changing LED (circuit inside the LED) does not make it much easier :(
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
If you have been flying your RC planes a lot and have found them getting a bit boring, go brushless and get lithium polymer cells. brushless motors are lighter and twice as powerful as brushed. lithium polymer batteries hold the most electricity to weight ratio compared to standard Nicd and Nmh. Dont believe me look at your cell phone open the battery hatch and take out battery its probably a Lithium polymer or lithium ion notice how light it is and small it is now look at the volts/ mAH pretty amazing hu? Got a laptop it probably got a lipo to. you want to make the switch but dont know what motor, battery, ESC (ESC-electronic speed control) to get, just ask and ill give you a hand! i will need to know the motor and battery that came with the plane/ or that u are using. Are you flying glow (gas powered) and wana go electric? i can help u out their too! Their are 2 kinds of brushless motors outrunner and inrunner whats the difference? well outrunners spin slower with more power so it acts like it has a gear box (this eliminates the need for a gear box reducing weight and noise) it also has a different design (look at pics). inrunners have a brushed appearance but their much lighter and more powerful u might need a gear box through. update 2/20/08 new image added (not all comment boxes are working)
Topic by i make shooting things | last reply
Today i got the 12 batteries required to rebuild the battery in my powerbook 190. i dont know the condidtion of the parts inside the laptop, but it must still be in a somewhat working order because when i hooked it up to an ac adapter (12v, 15a) before, its power light turned on and it made some noises. it didn't fully turn on though, because it needed 24v, not 12. hoping that rebuilding the battery pack would help, i bought 4 cordless phone batteries, each consisting of 3 smaller batteries and equaling 3.6v. all together that created the 14.4v that is needed to replace the original, acid leaked batteries. i wired them in series to get the 14.4v. I think that it may have not worked because the original batteries were nimh (nickel metal-hydride), and these new ones were nicd (nickel cadmium). Upon observing the internals of the laptop earlier, before i bought the batteries, i noticed some peculiar things: -there were a few spots where some components were added, (eg- resistors, capacitors, jumper wires, all were smt) -a unbranded piece in the battery power area, labeled on the board as XFER1. it is black and has five connections on each side of the component, which seem to have copper wires attached to them leading inside the component. -no marked fuses on the board. the (apple released) manual for disassembling the machine states "you can blow a (soldered) fuse on the board", but there are no spots where a fx (x representing a number, eg: f1) is present, and most of the smt components in the suspected area are not marked and lok much like the same piece. can anyone help me figure out what may be wrong? the ac adapter port works but the battery doesn't, would uploading pictures help people help me?
Question by zack247 | last reply