Search for noise sensors in Topics


Make some noise with 110v sensor

I have a presence sensor 110v (lights a lamp) and I need make some noise too. I already insert one ac adaptor 12v with a resistor anda a pc speaker and make a irritant noise, anyone have othe idea thanks

Question by Melara    |  last reply


Interactive lights with sensors and such

I am currently working of my BFA in sculpture and I have a couple of gallery shows coming up and it would seem that my ideas are bigger than my knowledge base (which is okay by me, but sometimes frustrating). My current work revolves around posthumanism and I am working to blur the lines between human and machine, working with circuitry, xrays, and prosthetics. I have one set of work that I am currently a bit stumped with. I have three copper PCB boards that I am going to etch into circuits, but the lines of the circuits will resemble human faces. Each board has a character: the introvert, the extrovert, and the antagonist. The introvert will be silent, but I want the lights that glow behind it to flicker faster, or get brighter when the viewer nears. Essentially, he is quiet, but has a LED driven anxiety attack when people approach. I did this with a dark sensitive photosensor thinking that the viewers shadows would activate the light. While it worked in my living room, I realized that the gallery lighting would not lend itself to this method. So my next thought was a theremin that had light output instead of sound output. Possible? The next two will make sound and light. The extrovert needs to seek attention. I was hoping to figure out something that would talk back when something is making noise around it. So it would need to pick up the vibrations of someone talking about my work, or possibly even their footsteps, and then begin to "talk back" (lighting up and making noise). Intstead of sensing vibrations I was thinking that proximity might be easier so maybe an IR sensor. (?) The last one hate the second one. I was thinking I might be able to do something like this with a kit I have that allows me to plug one circuit into another, , where I would have it sense the light or sound coming from the extrovert and in turn verbally assault him. However,it is not a definite go, still lots of kinks so I am up for any solutions. I hope this is somewhat coherent to you. If you could give me any leads on where to start, or any places to get good information/products, that would be immensely appreciated. Thanks for your time!

Topic by idaholaura    |  last reply



Selection of presence sensor

Hi guys. For one of my university projects I need to detect the presence of a person in the shower. In order to do that what I have in mind is use a proximity sensor. If the target is in a distance range (let's say 20 to 50 cm) It will assume that the person is in the shower when the distance measure is no longer in this range then it will mean that the person left the shower. I need to detect all the time of the person in the shower (meaning when he/she gets in and then out). I have read a lot of info and forums to properly choose the type of sensor. However I still don't have a clear answer. About the Ultrasonic proximity sensors I know that they are cheap and more accurate by it can be affected by Temperature, humidity and some ambient noise, all of them which happen in a shower. The other option an Infrared one gets affected by lightning conditions and the surface of the target. The last option I checked is a PIR sensor I know it senses Temperature of the target, but I don't know if it will be affected by the running hot water and also is more expensive. In general, I don't know how the running hot water will affect the detection of the person in shower. Also,so again I don't know how this will work. Sorry for the huge amount of  questions, I am a little bit confuse with all the factors to have in mind. I am hoping someone out there can help a lost newbie like me and give me a suggestion. Thanks a lot :)

Topic by mcamiea    |  last reply


I am looking for a sensor that activates after the clicking noise of an automobile turn signal

Hello Forum, I am looking for a sensor that activates after the clicking noise of an automobile turn signal solenoid stops. Similar to the "clap on clap off" device, but activates only after I choose to stop clapping.  Or like a heart monitoring circuit that activates an alarm when a heartbeat stops. I would like this circuit to activate for only three seconds then reset. I would like that sensor to be able to clip onto an adhesive pad just like the one doctors use for heart monitoring. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Curtis

Question by CurtisJ2    |  last reply


Noise cat scarer device with with motion detection

I need a cat/pet scarer device.  Main problem: Indoor housecats scratch bedroom doors during the night.  Observations: I''ve had partial success with a comercial product called "Ssscat Cat Spray Control System". It uses motion detection and a bottle of compressed air, shooting a burst of air on detection. The concept is good, but it's not easily available anymore and was a bit expensive. It seems that cats are more scared of the sound it makes than the burst of air.  Ideas: I was hoping to use a "Pyroelectric Infrared IR Motion Sensor Detector Module" and a small audio speaker to make a static sound (white noise) to accomplish a goal similar to commercial solution. A sound loudness slightly above normal talking sound would be enough.  The sound legth should be about one second. Maybe two LEDs lighting at the same time would also help. I would need about 2-5 such devices. They would have to be battery operated with an on/off switch.  Could such devices be easily built from components? If so, I would need on finding the right components and instruction on building the device. I have only basic skills like soldering and tinkering, but I don't know how to design electronic devices more complicated than simple LED projects. 

Topic by Vesa Seppänen    |  last reply


Is it possible to power a 5v device through a sensor that uses a 3.3v battery?

This is probably the stupidest question but i'm a total noob at this. I have a sensor which is powered by a small 3v button battery and a small 5v microphone which needs to be connected to the sensor so that the noise data can be transmitted over bluetooth because the sensor has bluetooth. The mic is connected through GPIO pins on the sensor. So I'm wondering if I can power the two together if the only power supply is the 3v button battery and the microphone needs 5v. Also any possibility that I can power the mic through USB?Thanks all. p.s. Round sensor shown in the picture below is MetawearCPRO, datasheet: https://mbientlab.com/docs/MetaWearCPSv0.5.pdf ebay link for microphone: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172013968121?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Question by DanzT    |  last reply


Walkie talkie motion sensor?

Alright, so I'm sure this isn't one of those ideas that very many will get super excited about... but I was thinking it would be cool to take a walkie talkie and put a motion sensor or event a breakable laser beam on it. In detail, the idea would be while playing paintball or something similar, you could plant it somewhere... once someone went passed it, it would use the alert function on the walkie (I don't know what the proper name is for that button, but it's the one that makes the obnoxious noise when you press it).  This would allow everyone on your team to know when the other team had passed that point. So, how would I tackle a project like this?  As an electronics newbie am I in over my head, or is this something that I could handle with a little messing around?  Ideas? Thanks!

Topic by xtraorange    |  last reply


Metro 2033 Light Sensor

I'm working on a Metro 2033 cosplay costume and being the gadget-geek I am I'd like to make a working copy of the light sensor Artyom carries on his wrist. For anyone who haven't played the game (or read the book, I bought it today but I don't know it he's got the same thing there) it's basically just three LED:s (red, yellow, green) that light up depending on how well illuminated you are (red=fully illuminated=people will see you instantly and shoot, yellow=partly illuminated=people will see you unless you take cover, green=as good as invisible unless you give away your position with noise or flashlight). In the game it's abut the size of a 9v battery but flatter and for simplicity I'd like to keep it like that; I don't fancy carrying around an Arduino or something like that on my wrist. Here's a picture: http://bi.gazeta.pl/im/5/7534/z7534645X,Metro-2033.jpg So, my question is: Is it possible to make something like that small and simple enough to be stuck to a wristband?

Topic by Jur    |  last reply


How do I activate a holloween ghost by motion sensor? Answered

I have a battery powered ghost.  It has a microphone and when it senses noise it activates.  when it's running it moans noises and moves along a rope that's tied between two points.  The microphone is terrible and you have to yell to make it move.  I want to have a motion sense at the beginning of the walkway and when activated sends a wireless signal to the ghost to activate it.  How can I do this for cheap?

Question by hockeymikey    |  last reply


What sensor should be used, or what can i make to precisely align a vehicle up to a ramp?

Sorry i couldnt decide how to word my question but here is my situation and i would be gratefull for any input because i am not sure what would be the best or easiest way to go about it.  My car is lowered and therefore i can not park in my driveway without having a ramp(plank of wood) infront of each tire at the sloped base of my driveway. This does not bug me as much as the fact that every time i go to back out of or pull up to my driveway i have to align my tires as best as i can guess up to the ramps, take car out of gear, put on parking brake, get out, check one tire, then the other, and occasionaly move the ramps left or right before i can get back in my car and procede up into the driveway. Ok so its not only my laziness that fuels this project... my mustang isnt the quiestest and when its late I feel bad leaving it idleing (making noise) while i get out to make sure i'm lined up to the ramps. I would love to make some kind of proximity sensor or something that lets me know when each tire is propperly lined up.   I have thought about a few different things like a camera under the front bumper that feeds to a monitor on the dash, (similar to a backup cam) also i was trying to think of a way to use an old cell phone and its camera for this.  IR proximity sensors in the bumper attached to LED lights on the dash that tell me im lined up if the propper LED's are lit. I dont know much about them but maybe some sort of magnetic sensor or metal detector.  One issue is that the placement of the ramps can be detected in different ways depending on the sensors used. whatever the factor is, that is being sensed (reflective surface, metal, tiny magnets) needs to be durable and able to be ran over on a daily basis. Also I want something that can be fairly accurate, although an err either left or right of an inch would be alright. Sorry for being longwinded but i look forward to some ideas! Thanks!

Question by colie1904    |  last reply


How do you build a decibel meter?

I'm triying to measure noise contamination on an airport runway, so i need values from 60DB - 160 DB. I only have found high sensitivity sensors. Any idea on how to build a less sesitive one?

Question by MauricioA33    |  last reply


How can you use an LED strip along with a sound sensor?

I have a sound sensor and an LED strip, i can get a single LED to light up with the sound sensor (whenever i snap my fingers or make noise) but when i hook up the LED strip in place of the single LED, it doesnt work.  If i hook up the LED strip directly to my Arduino UNO to 5v and ground the strip works. The problem is that i need the LED strip to be hooked up to a digital pin on the Arduino instead of directly to the power for the sound sensor to work with it.  I would really appreciate any help!

Question by madcow213    |  last reply


Touch Sensitive Floor Mats

I have one of those Halloween floor mats that when you step on them, it triggers a sensor that has it make a screaming noise. Is there anyway to hack this? It's annoying and I want to make use out of it.

Topic by thatjawn    |  last reply


i need a light and motion sensitive cat scaring device.

I need a noise making motion sensitive device that only works when there is no light. Thoughts: want to use a plug in (no batteries) light sensitive night light (these come on when it's dark) and have it power something that is a motion sensitive noise maker that would scare a cat.  the point being these would go in a bathroom and i only want them to be active if the lights are out. hopefully cheap as I need to make two of these. willing to rip apart toys or other electronics that are easy to get. Thanks for any advice

Question by princew    |  last reply


Passive (Pyroelectric) Infrared Motion Sensor Design?

I am trying to build a pyroelectric infrared sensor using a KC778B from scratch. I have gotten my system to work using PIR modules, but because I am using 100 of them in my project, it ends up costing almost $900 more to do than building it from scratch (even including paying a machine to assemble the extra components). However, the prototype I built doesn't work. It worked when I did it using a PIR module, so the LED charging circuit is fine -- but the sensor block is not. I went through the datasheet carefully and didn't see anything particularly odd, and scoping the pins also showed no noise to speak of. I found an example online of how to use the chip, and their system was very similar to mine, except with extra features that I had eliminated. Basically, the behavior is that it does not output a voltage indicating detected motion for a random appearing length of time, and then outputs only detection events. The attached LED light is off for most of the time, and then turns on, never to turn off again. Perhaps the sensitivity is too low, perhaps the controller and PIR sensor element aren't compatible, I just have no idea. The PIR sensor is the PIR_D203S. It says it requires 3-15V to run and the drain reference on the PIR controller chip is only 2.5V, so I thought that could be the problem. However, connecting D directly to 5VDC did not fix anything. I just ordered two PIR sensors that say they go to 2VDC, but I'm not optimistic that this is the problem. I also did not include the 1k resistor on the output to the LED control transistor; could that cause the system to stick on or off? I did also not bypass the power supply, but I'm seeing it freeze, not flicker, so again I am doubtful. I really cannot think of any other places where this could fail -- perhaps the offset voltage on the PIR sensor, maybe the frequency of the turn off circuit -- but everywhere I look the datasheets imply that my circuit should be fine as is. I'm kind of doubtful that instructables can help, but I have no where else to turn. These things are apparently too cheap for anyone to bother building them themselves, and there are only even one or two controller chips in existence.

Question by neltnerb    |  last reply


I will pay you to make my Idea!

So basically I want a very simple device which is just a little buzzer and either some kind of laser sensor or even bits of string. I want something that can be worn that makes a noise when the wear slips out of good posture. I am sure this could be easily done. All quotes will be received and considered.

Topic by moogle123    |  last reply


Stop neighbours dog barking - How?

Can someone give me instructions how to build a device for stopping dogs from barking. The sort that has sensors that detect barking and give of an annoying to dogs, innaudible to humans noise, so that the dog will learn that barking triggers an unpleasant sound and hopefully stop. Our neighbours dog is driving us nuts and we dont want to have to complain about them.

Question by Figjam    |  last reply


IR laser detector alarm

With the new Infrared laser pointers etc. there is no way to tell if light is on or not. I think there is a need for a IR laser light detector that is small enough to fit in your pocket and could be clipped to your shirt. If a IR laser was pointed in your direction the sensor would chirp or make a noise. I've noticed several places selling IR laser pointers. I think they are dangerous and very little use for them, since they are invisible. Anybody want to make one? If you do I want one.

Topic by paduckaartist    |  last reply


Arduino/Lilypad to play sound effects?

Hi there. I am looking to turn myself into a living cartoon. What the hell am I talking about you say? I want to use various accelerometers, bend sensors, and the like to detect certain movements/actions and play a certain accompanying cartoon sound effects (think Johnny Bravos whip noises when he poses. etc.) How would I go about using either lilypad or a regular ol arduino unit to control sounds? I would obviously need mp3/wav capability. 

Topic by ThorsMitersaw    |  last reply


arduino code nedded

HI, MY  NAME IS THIAGO IKEDA AND HERE IS MY FIRST "ASK" my english is VERY bad. well sorry anyway FIRST  i made this arduino tank (named ardutank) with ladyada motor shield and i used library and worked then i like WOW I SUPER GENIUS so i buy an HC-SR04(ULTRASONIC SENSOR) to put with ARDUTANK, and i used the library too but when i upload the code the ARDUTANK START make some wild noises. i dont know what to do to ARDUTANK work with the sensor obs: in first mode (with out ultrasonic sensor) one motor spins more fast than other, WHY? the bouth motors are the same motor. but when i put to HIM to RUN HE make lil curve. here is code WITH SENSOR PLEASE IGNORE THE RELE AND BUZER NEXT TO SENSOR // Adafruit Motor shield library // copyright Adafruit Industries LLC, 2009 // this code is public domain, enjoy! #include #include #define TRIGGER_PIN  12 #define ECHO_PIN     13 int distance; Ultrasonic ultrasonic(TRIGGER_PIN, ECHO_PIN); AF_DCMotor motor1(1); AF_DCMotor motor2(2); void setup() {   Serial.begin(9600);           // set up Serial library at 9600 bps   Serial.println("Motor test!");   // turn on motor   delay(10);   motor1.setSpeed(20);   motor2.setSpeed(20); motor2.run(RELEASE);   motor1.run(RELEASE); } void loop() {   uint8_t i;   float cmMsec, inMsec;   long microsec = ultrasonic.timing();   cmMsec = ultrasonic.convert(microsec, Ultrasonic::CM);   inMsec = ultrasonic.convert(microsec, Ultrasonic::IN);   Serial.print("tick");   motor1.run(FORWARD);   motor2.run(FORWARD);   if(distance<10) {    motor1.run(RELEASE);    motor2.run(RELEASE); } else {    motor1.run(FORWARD);   motor2.run(FORWARD); } }

Question by crazy_thiago    |  last reply


How can i be notified when my washing machine has turned off? Answered

I have a washer which does NOT make an audible noise when it's finished it's cycle. I would love to figure out a way to be notified when the machine has turned off. The machine has lights which are on during the different cycles, and then turn off when the cycle(s) are complete. I would imagine this could be a way of triggering perhaps and audible queue. I wouldnt really know how to go about getting started with this though or if this is the right approach. This would be a link to what my washer looks like. http://images01.olx.com/ui/4/50/11/1267472745_77434911_2-GE-Electric-Washer-and-Dryer-for-sale-EXCELLENT-condition-Baytown.jpg i would love any assistance for those who may have an idea on how to get started or what sensor(s) i may want/need. Thanks in advance. -  James

Question by darlok21    |  last reply


How to power a 5v circuit with batteries? And will my circuit always draw power?

I'm building a fridge door sensor that will beep when the door is opened. The one that is on my fridge right now is very inaccurate and so I want to improve it. So what I've done is make a sensor that is mounted onto the door to makes a contact when its closed. When it's opened, I'm using an ATtiny 25 to wait 30 seconds and then make a pulsating buzzing noise through a buzzer. The ATtiny operates in a range of 2.7 - 5.5v and I want to power it with batteries. I'm new to electronics so I don't know much about powering stuff with batteries. My questions are: How do I get that power that I need? Will the batteries get drained quickly because of the circuit design? (power always going through the contacts) Also: Does anyone know exactly how to hook up a battery to an ATtiny? I think that the positive should go through my switches and then into vcc, but I'm not sure where to put the negative. Thank you so much!

Question by yohiyoyo    |  last reply


Need Security Light Help Please

I'm trying to set up some security lights and I'm having some trouble. I don't really like the motion-sensor-activated lights that I've seen -- they all have the motion-switch right by the light -- I'd rather have them come on when either of two gates are opened (if a person is coming from the street) or if someone passes a spot on the walkway (if they're coming from the back building on this property) either with an eye-beam or, if it's cheaper, a motion detector, that's nowhere near the lights. I would like the lights to come on only at night and go off after about 5 mins. If possible, it would be nice if a noise could be played during the daylight hours. I've looked into delay timers and other devices but I'm really new to this, so any help would be appreciated

Topic by maharbA    |  last reply


Challenge: design a water cannon for deterring cats

The Cats page (https://www.instructables.com/id/Cats/) incorrectly states that 'Everybody loves cats'.  In fact, everybody does NOT love cats, particularly those whose resent their tendency to massacre the wildlife in our gardens. I'd like to improve the odds of survival for all the birds, amphibians and small mammals in my garden, but without causing physical harm to the cats.  I've tried scent-based cat repellents without success, and I completely reject the idea of indiscriminate noise scarers. I can't police the garden 24/7, so my preferred solution is a water cannon capable of detecting a cat and soaking it. To keep things simple, I'd be thinking of using mains pressure to power the water jet, and batteries to power a motion sensor (infra-red). To be useful, the design would need to: - hit targets within a user-specified arc and at varying distances - allow the user to configure the sensitivity of the sensor, so that cat-sized heat sources are treated as targets, but smaller mammals are non-targets - avoid being triggered by foliage disturbed by the wind. For extra credit, the design could: - use solar power instead of batteries - focus the jet at the target, rather than spraying mist over a large area

Topic by pspinks    |  last reply


strange 3 input DC motor help on its operation Answered

I have a servo from a mattrax hummer rc from radio shack (its PCB has broken)  so i opened the steering servo its has a small DC brushed motor, but what puzzles me is that it has 3 leads that control it, my question is how does that third lead work, it i attached to two capacitors and each lead to one of the other ends of the connection, a basic schematic and picture will be attached (if i figure out this uploading feature) also the servo was a proportional control servo with a sensor that indicated when the wheel has turned to maximum. any one have any idea how it worked and maybe even how to wire it to an Arduino with proportional control, also i don't think i works for noise suppression but any ideas 

Question by luig    |  last reply


Scholarship Robot Proposal: Perimeter Security Bot

A few years ago my house was broken into. Thankfully, nothing of to great of value was stolen. They only stole $60 out of a small personal safe (not traceable and did more property damage than anything else), had no idea who broke into our house or if they were ever caught, and no way of providing any evidence to convict anyone. So it got me thinking, what if I had a bot that ran around scanning the house (visually and audibly), linked up to an old pc that uploaded live feed from it, and have an alarm capability that if it detected someone that would trigger the iRobot to have the live feed stored to the hard disk on a remote web server. That way if we do get broken into ever again, I will have evidence on file! The iRobot would have a "normal live feed only" function and an "alarm on" function. The difference between the two would be that the normal mode would just send live feed onto my web portal and not store it on the remote hard disk. That way if someone is home it will not store hours of my family walking around, while my hosting storage gets filled up. "Alarm on" mode would allow the iRobot sensors to sense a person and tell it to store the feed on the remote HD. It will do this for 10minutes, after the time is up it will then reset the timer, and begin the whole process again. Again, this is keeping any false alarms (such as my cats) from filling up HD space. Sensors: To detect any object (like a human) only requires an IR sensor to detect a moving body of heat. It is like the ones you see in some buildings with the plastic covers over them and leds blink when an object passes in front of it. Another words a thermal motion detector I would also incorporate a high frequency detector. It would detect loud sharp noises, like glass breaking. Then of course the crt camera with audio linked to an onboard wireless transceiver. old PC with Proprietary software and high speed wireless router I eventually will hope to one day build this robot, if you have any suggestions I would be glad to hear them. Thank you for your consideration!

Topic by Kira_Koenig    |  last reply


Advice for hydraulic master thesis.

Hello, I’m a civil engineering student and I’ve always had a special interest for electronics, sensors, and arduinos. I’m finishing my degree for which I have to develop a thesis. After some research and based on some articles, I proposed to my hydraulics Professor to monitor the solids transportation (at the bottom of a river) using a hydrophone. This idea consists on measuring the intensity/quantity of sediments (like rocks and muds) passing through a certain spot. These measurements are made using a hydrophone put underneath a seel plate – when the sediments pass beneath this plate they create impulses or frequencies, which will then be analyzed. What I would like to know is the best way to capture these frequencies through the hydrophone – mobile recorder, daw, arduino? I intend to connect the hydrophone to the computer, either through the arduino or through a sound plaque, but I’m afraid these solutions are more prone to the appearance of noise. The frequency range to analyze is between 10Hz and 30kHz. Will it be a good solution to connect the hydrophone to the arduino? Another issue in my mind is the handling of the data gathered – should I use excel, matlab or python? Thanks, Carlos Esteves

Topic by amagro    |  last reply


Circuit Bending Workshop at Discovery World (Milwaukee, WI)

Circuit Bending is the art of rewiring and short-circuiting a device to create entirely new sonic possibilities. In a DIY interactive lab environment, learn the basics of electronics by reverse engineering old toys such as the Speak and Spell and other gadgets. Bring an old toy or instrument (check your local thrift store for anything with buttons and a speaker). Then dismantle, adding switches and knobs to create new from the old; this is electronics recycling at its finest. We will be offering two classes in September in October: 1: Intro to Circuit Bending Wednesday | Sept 23 | 6:30 - 9pm $25 Members & MIAD students | $35 Non-Members In this interactive crash course we'll cover the equipment, tools, and techniques needed to start you on your own bending adventure. 2: Circuit Bending Workshop Wednesday | Two-Part Series - Sept 30 & Oct 7 | 6:30-9pm $55 Members & MIAD students | $65 Non-Members In a comprehensive two-part series, participants explore the process of turning toys into noise instruments. We'll cover everything from basic bending and probing techniques to creating noise instruments with knobs, body contacts, photo sensors, and amplifier outputs. CALL (414) 765-8625 FOR RESERVATIONS. Workshops will be held in Discovery World's Electronic Lab, with a maximum class size of 15. What you need to bring: Something to bend- basically anything with buttons and a speaker that runs on batteries (old toys like the Speak and Math and Furby, older Casio keyboards are very bend friendly, guitar effects pedals can be drastically altered), and fresh batteries for your device. Due to the nature of circuit bending there is a high probability of damaging a device beyond repair. If it is valuable to you, don't take it apart! Equipment and beverages (beer for 21+) will be provided, as well as a limited number of toys to bend. Feel free to reply to this post if you have any questions, or e-mail diy@discoveryworld.org

Topic by knellotron    |  last reply


Home automation with time?

Hey everyone,  Not sure how many of you would have thought about it but there's a kickstarter project that reached it goal a while ago called 'wig wag'. Wig wag is more or less just home automation. I really like the idea, but hate the thought of paying hundreds of dollars for something that is definitely not worth that much.  Mainly what I'm most interested in doing is automate lights to turn on after a certain time due to a motion sensor. So when I walk into a bathroom at 1am, red LEDs will turn on (as they don't affect your eyes like white light does so you'll still be able to see).  There are some other things that could be cool, such as these lights not turning on if there is a certain amount of noise in the house (if I'm awake or maybe even if lights are on?). I'd be using LEDs I'd have some kind of 12v adapter rather than cracking into light switches in my wall. I'd also rather not buy a wifi powerpoint adaptor, (something like http://www.officeworks.com.au/retail/products/Technology/Power-Supplies/Electrical-Timers/BEF7C027AU?catargetid=1402860417&cadevice;=%7Bdevice%7D) I currently have a raspberry PI and and happy to use it for this but would probably prefer to buy an arduino but I have no experience with this. I have virtually no knowledge on coding so please forgive any ignorance and please give me your patience! It would also be lovely to have some sort of web server to be able to control it all.  Thanks everyone, your help is really appreciated. Pete

Question by pete54321    |  last reply


New drums: Kick pedal question. Answered

Greetings! Background: My xmas 'from me to me' present was a Roland TD-9K electronic drum set.  I have a concern with the drum kick.  I think I have it set up properly and it's either a setup problem or a user/technique issue.  The instruction manual says you can adjust (insert list of a bajillion variables) and 'set it up how you like' basically, without explaining how each variable effects the end result. My problem:  The kick pedal is set up as per the instructions and occasionally (every few beats) double-taps.  The hits are extremely close together, and are hardly audible if you're not listening for them, but they do exist in the midi data. (i.e. 1/64th beat later) The hammer is physically bouncing and hitting twice, it's not just spurious noise or an oversensitive pickup.  The brain lcd has a What I can adjust: Technique:  If I move my foot a bit it changes the harmonic frequency of the hammer, and it can solve the problem, but sometimes my foot ends up back where the problem exists The pedal assembly: -Spring return tension -- more tension = ability to hit faster but more effort required, problem exists everywhere from full soft to full firm. -Hammer location - it's centered on the sensor per instructions, and strikes flat and square. I could move the pedal off to one side slightly, or change the effective length of the hammer so it hits higher or lower (would change the periodicity of the system). -Angle of the sensor - per instructions is set straight vertical. -Electronic filtering - I can tell the brain to ignore hits for a period after a given hit to eliminate the spurious hits, but this wrecks my ability to intentionally use techniques where fast double-hits are wanted -'Home' angle of the hammer -- the angular moment with which the hammer moves with each kick.  Setting this too far away tends to make it hit the top of my foot (quite painful), and too short means its hard to make it work. Other Thoughts: I play barefoot, should I have a set of drum shoes?  Would that make a difference? I want to use these also to play rock band thru the midi adapter (people report its fun) -- but the double-hits would seriously impair scoring ability, and I need a way to fix them!

Question by frollard    |  last reply


What laptop fan do I need, and where I can I get it for a good price in the UK?

I think this is actually my first post here, although I've been following Instructables for a long time. Anyway, I thought someone here might be able to help me find the right parts. I have an Acer Aspire 7520 laptop.  I think the fan might be going south--it makes a horrible noise when it first starts up, then after a while it calms down but it seems to turn on and off more frequently than it should.  According to the computer itself (monitored with lm-sensors on Fedora) the temperatures of the various parts are within the normal range, so my guess is that the fan itself is malfunctioning. I'm a total novice but I think, based on previous experience, that I can take a shot at replacing the fan myself if I can figure out what part to buy and where to get it.  My google-fu seems to be failing me, though, and the only place I see to buy it is some random company called shop1mall, which I don't really trust, or various places in the US.  Acer customer service is useless--they will only book it in for a repair, not tell me the part number. Where can an ignorant person such as myself find a suitable replacement part?  I'm fairly new to the UK so I don't know all the places to look here, but so far Misco, Maplin, and PC World don't seem to carry a suitable part, or at least, I don't know how to tell whether the fans they sell will work with this laptop. Geez, sorry for the rambling message.  Any help is appreciated, though.

Topic by manderw    |  last reply


Advanced Helmet

Advanced Helmet By: Arseny Ratnikov I want to create a helmet that looks like a sci fi helmet (mass effect, titanfall, halo, etc.) and that; **Want to make cool helmet, need help with having multiple camera feed output to multiple screens** * Protects my head (able to decrease force from impact by significant degree) * Can filter the air I breath (does not need to be super extreme filter, just filter out general junk, the better the filter the more pleased I am, but if it becomes too bulky/expensive then it is unnecessary)(Optional/Most Likely) * Has a HUD with my vitals on it. I would wear some sensors, such as HR monitor to have some cool biofeedback, maybe also include other information.(option) * Maybe even have it be a digital display where there are cameras on the front and maye back of the helmet that then are displayed on the interior screen, where I have voice commands setup for some different things. * Have the helmet be as sound proof as possible and have microphones where my ears would be, then inside the helmet speakers, so that I can modify the noise around me to be how I want it to be. I understand this would be rather difficult (at least including all of the bullets) and that it could even be a touch silly. Yet, I find this a rather intriguing pursuit and think it will help contribute to becoming a cyborg. Any tips would be greatly appreciated as I don't really know where to start for this. I can imagine a lot of the work might be done on an arduino, but I simply don't know the feasibility of modifying noises of the world around you and having the cameras on the helmet. So here's a little prioritization sheet I worked out, it is not exactly in order, and maybe you all have some suggestions on what might be more critical to design and functionality. Prioritization 1. Functionality a. Head protection a1. Padding/Inertia dampener a2. Sturdy/solid b. Control of phone through bluetooth b1. In helmet speakers b2. In helmet microphone b3. Voice control c. Control of other systems such as screens c1. Voice control of screens c2. Screen modification c3. Screen HUD and other functions (maybe GPS map, time, etc.) d. Camera view d1. Camera live to screen with little to no latency d1a. 360 degree view compressed to 180 degree screen (maybe) d2. Computer control of camera feed d2a. Visuals, different HUDs e. Sound modulation e1. Sound cancelling e2. Sound reproduction at low to no latency e3. Sound modification e3a. Changing pitch e3b. Change decibel levels e3c. Change relative level of external sounds f. The HUD f1. Display of vitals f1a. Heart rate, oxygenation, etc. (Requires some monitor) f2. Display of time and other running interests f3. Display of current location on google maps/GPS system g. Air Filtration g1. Filtration of air, relatively high quality g2. Seal on head or seal over mouth and nose or full body suit that connects to helmet h. Extra Features 2. Style a. Look good b. Look like popular sci-fi media c. Does not interfere with functionality and accents functionality How should I do this? I am planning on using some old phone screens if I can for the screen part and multiple cameras. I plan on using a raspberry computing system (might need multiple) to modulate the output from the cameras. How could I make multiple camera outputs lay onto multiple screens that looks good at three to five inches from the eyes? Also how can I make the raspberry pi control my phone and computer via voice, or at least change a screens properties? Thanks

Topic by ArsenyR    |  last reply


Ultrasonic soldering bath

Making a working ultrasonic soldering iron is not as easy as I though it would be.Finding tanrsducer of suitable design and size is even harder.So I thought I start with something easier and share the thoughts here.If you need to solder impossible to solder things then quite often you could get away by wetting the entire area.For example the end of a wire or a lug where it won't matter that you can solder on the bottom as well as the top.Back in my days flux core solder was a rare and very expensive thing to find.So we had a little soldering pot and flux pot instead for working with lots of wires.Dip, dip, done....The pre-soldered wires where then easy to work with and the ramaining flux on then was enough.Doing this for metals like aluminium, stainless steel or even ceramics seems impossible at first sight.China offers cheap ultrasonic transducers including the required driver electronics for very littel money these days, despite the trade wars.The most obvious solution would then be to get a cheap and big enough soldering bath and to attach the transducer to it....Won't work though and if it does then not for long.Problem is firstly the heat transfered to the ceramic parts of the trandsucer and secondly the fact that most of these soldering baths use quite thick steel for the container.Add the that you deal with quite some grams of molten metal and you know where I am going.Building your own ultrasonic soldering bath to solder the impossible with ease!Project costs:40kHz transducer with driver board : about 50 bucks.Thin walled stainless steel bowl ( about 50 to 100ml but go bigger if you like) : about 2 bucks.Leftovers for an enclosure can be wood, plasic or your favourite 3D printer.Ultrasonic horn: About 500 bucks from your favourite engennering company or you need to make it yourself - I prefer the later.Main design considerations for the horn:We need something to keep the heat away from the transducer that also amplifies the power coming from it.That is why we can use a bowl or container that has a small bottom daimeter as the transducer if need be ;)There is a good reason a commercial horn costs a lot of money.They are preferably made from titanium and they need to perform as advertised right from the start.We substitude by using some aluminium round stock and a lathe.It is advisable to leave the transducer as it is!Do not take it apart to mount your horn directly onto the ceramics!Use a long enough set screw or include the required thread on your horn to mount it onto the transducer.If you prefer to use stainless steel doe to the lower heat conductivity then be my guest.The horn should have the same diameter as the mating part of the transducer for a quarter of the wavelength of the transducers frequency in the given material.Please look up how fast sound travels in your choosen material and calculate it properly.Having the lenght of the thick part right is quite cruicial.The thinner part that amplifies our movements should be about a quarter of the diameter of the transducer.For example: if the mating face of the tansducer is 40mm in diameter then the thin part of the horn should be 10mm.The length again is a quarter of the wavelength or the same as the thick part.Where thick meets thin please allow for a 3 to 5mm radius and make sure this area is nice and smothly finnished.Now, length is quite critical here....As we will mount our finnsihed actuator free hanging under the bath we need a feasable way to comapensate for our tolerances by creating our horn without a simulating software. I found that welding a short stub onto the container works best but with aluminum it is harder.I assume most will opt for welding a 6mm soft steel threaded rod onto the container.Either way the container surface must be kept flat for the mating surface of our actuator rod.So it is best to make the stud yourself or to use a suitable replacement - like using some flux and your stick welder for create a makeshift spot welder ;)If you decided on using steel for the horn then of course you can just mill a 10mm piece with a suitable thread and flat mating surface...What you want to end up with is a screw connection that has a flat mating surface and no empty spaces, fine thread prefered.Tuning the horn....The ensclosure is easy to make as a box, so the only thing to worry about is insulation but nothing to affect performance.So I just assume you have it all ready ;)With the horn at one quarter wavelength either end our thin end will be too long unless a short stud is used for a direct fit.So whatever you had to add for the part on your container or bowl need to be removed from he horns thin end.Try to keep the gad for the threaded part as small as possible as it affects the resonace.As things never turn out perfect the first try I prepare some thin steel washers - 100mm outer diameter in case you wonder and stick with the above example.I use a strong neodymium magnet and belt sander to create washers from very thin to slightly thinner ;)Taking off slightly more from the horns end will then allow toadd these washers if required - but please do a try as it is first when you think you got the measurements all right!For an aluminium horn you will of course use aluminium washers here.To do so fill the container with some water and place a sheet of thin alumiium foil on top of the water.Turn it on and within a few seconds you should see holes appearing in the fiol or even small fractures.If nothing but noise happens it is quite certain your rod will be a bit too long.Unscrew and take about one tenth of a mm off the thin end of the horns mating surface to shorten it.Try again with the foil and if no better remove some more material.Once you see some action try adding a layer of aluminium foil between the mating surfaces - screw it tight!The foil won't last long but if the action on the water is far better until it fails you know you took off too much.The washers come into place if the tuning won't work at all.Sometimes you can cut off a little bit again and again but the piece will remain too short ;)Especially if you have an aluminium horn and needed to use a steel screw on the bowl...So once the shortening of the horn fials you add a washer to get slightly above the original length and start replacing the differently thick washer until you find a sweet spot.The tricky part is over, now to solve the heating poblem...Using some glass seal as used on wood fire ovens not olnyl provides good insulation to our enclosure but also prevents the vibrations from spreading too far.As our hardware store won't just give use the little bit we need the rest can be used to insulate our container.Dending on the size and shape of your container I hope you decided to buy a container tha fits your heating element...I found that replacement coils for lab heaters work fine but some small fan heaters also use round heating elements instead if wire spirals.For a custom shape it is quite easy to use a coil of heatin wire rated for your mains voltage and a glass fibre sleeve for insulation.To keep it all in shape just wrap some steel wire over it - over the insulated coils of course.The temperature control can be as fancy as with a microcontroller or as simple as using a dimmer like I did.Most heating elements will go glowing red hot if the mains voltage is not reduced.It makes sense to limit the dimmer's movements accordingly by testing it.Just do it in the dark afeter exposing a small bit of the heating wire from the insulating sleeve.Once you see a faint glow coming dial it back a bit until you can see any glow - that should be the max setting.For a big bath or to save time you can of course crank it up to what the glass insulation can tolerate but be aware that solder can boil over!I do a temperature check either with a touch free IR thermometer of by checking how quickly some rosin boils off.If you need to dip bigger parts you need a higher temperature, so I think a digital or sensor temp control is not really required.Once you found a sweet spot to hold the solder temp long enough without getting too hot or cold just mark it for reference ;)Using the ultrasonic soldering bath correctly.Cavitation is what the work for us, so we only need to activate the ultrasonic part when we need it with a push button or food pedal switch.We do not use any flux or resin!That means if you used the bath for normal soldering and or resin then clean the remains off the surface first.A shiny and clean surface is best but the oxidisation will happen quickly so don't be too disappointed ;)Start by dipping in a clean copper wire.Some solder might stick but it won't look proper.Now dip it in again and while it is in push the button for about 3 seconds.Like magic, if tuned properly your wire is soldered and properly covered to where it was dripped in.Try the same with some slightly sanded or at least clean aluminium wire, but use the button right away for about 5 seconds.The wire should be coated with solder once more.You can try a glass rod or some stainless wire next but I guess the working principle is clear now ;)Not everything will bond with solder, especially not if it is not clean.A piece of glass with your fingerprint on it might just fail and some ceramics will only let the solder stick without actually bonding.You should always check the mechanical strength of your soldered connection before having to rely on it ;)And why would you need such a machine?Well, most people won't have any use for it.Those who do might not be able to afford a commercial model.And there is always those who just want it all...If you know why you need such a thing than you have an alternative now at a fraction of the cost.You only need a lathe or someone who can machine the horn for you.Another benefit is that for smaller containers it is possible to weld a small "bridge" over the top.Should be placed so the bottom is in the solder while top is above it.In many cases you will then be able to use this plate to heat up whatever you need to solder on.Like a glass plate where you would like to solder a wire to.Once up to temp turn the ultrasonic part on and use a normal soldering iron and flux flree solder.Works quite well for these small solar panel kits...Ok, and how far away is our cheap ultrasonic soldering iron?Not that far :)I already have a topic for this though....

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply