What do you all do for a living?

Hi guys, I'm Anna, a college sophomore and I've always loved crafting. I could get into almost anything, sewing, ceramics, woodworking, drawing, 3-d art, cooking, etc. Anything where I get to use my hands. I come from a family that isn't that well off and have always thought that art and crafts would come second in my life, something that I'd do during my pass time. And maybe after I retire and have saved up enough money, I could open a craft store or a coffee shop filled with books and crafts - some combination of all the things I love. I'm a psychology and neuroscience major and plan to probably get a PhD and work at a hospital or at a research university. I love people. I think we're capable of so much.. I might just become a counselor - I don't know. This has been my plan for a while but sometimes - or most of the time- all I find myself is dreaming about making things. I'm just so afraid that it isn't something that I can depend on. I'm not guaranteed safety and stability. So I'm wondering, What are you guys doing with your life right now? Have you had a similar dilemma? Do you do arts and crafts just whenever you have free time? Do you do it for a living? Suggestions?? Thanks guys! Happy Holidays!

Topic by alam10 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Occupational Health & Safety 'Ibles

After running a short thread about NOT sanding glass without serious respiratory protection, the idea of having Occupational Health and Safety Instructables was brought up. (Thanks, psycholily!)There are a lot of great howtos around here, and many of them touch on potentially harmful techniques. Not that this is a bad thing, and most authors will remark on safety issues, but I feel that many do not discuss how to keep safe.If we could have a few professionals post simple ibles about how to keep safe while performing various tasks that appear regularly on the site, that would be GREAT.Things such as:Respiratory protection - what do you need for sanding, painting, glasswork, welding, etc.Eye protection - wood work, soldering, welding, etc.Physical covering - is a long-sleeved shirt and jeans sufficient? Do you need gloves?Proper Cleanup and Disposal of various materials - what's safe, what's legal?

Topic by Coffeebot 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Model Railroad Twin-T OCCUPANCY DETECTOR? I need the instructions and parts list for the TWIN-T OCCUPANCY DETECTOR?

Every link I find does not provide the information and the magazine articles(issues) cannot be located. I can find pre-built BOD's but want to build my own. Thanks, AB

Question by brownart 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


Replace 3-way light swtichs

  Hi Folks,   I have a small laundry room with two 3-way light switches and no outlets. I would like to replace both switches using one of these options: Replace "master" switch with combo switch/outlet (like Pass & Seymour TM838. Replace slave switch with an Occupancy Sensor Switch. -OR- Same has above but use a regular outlet instead of combo. If I have to I would be happy with disabling one of the switches and just have the Occupancy switch. I have posted photos of the wires coming out of the switches here: http://stellabotte.smugmug.com/Other-1/Electric/37036170_Zc4KSw/#!i=3075021321&k;=gGJ9vgJ The replacement switches are: Pass & Seymour TM838-WCC   Combination Sw/Outlet    Pass & Seymour RW3U600       Multi-Way Occupancy Switch   One side bar question, can any 3-way switch work with any other 3-way switch on the same circuit ? Thanks -Fred

Topic by fstellab 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Please I need to build a passive infrared occupancy sensor. I need help please.

Great community, my supervisor actually want me to develop a passive infrared occupancy sensor from the scratch, I want this great community to help me the components that I will need, the physics of the circuits,  the block and circuit diagram and possibly, if anyone has an idea of what could serve as a reference for me to work with. Great community of scientists, thank you so much.

Question by Joebaba 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Homemade Jet Truck with 2700 HP

Jets keep getting added on to other items. Just a few days ago it was a bike and now it's a truck. This combination weighs in at 6,600 pounds with 2 occupants and still takes 8.5 seconds to hit 60 mph, but just think of the looks on other drivers' faces when you fire it up on the highway. Jet Truck

Topic by fungus amungus 9 years ago


Everyday Problems

We were tasked as a team to design a machine or process that will better the lives of workers in all occupations. So I want to ask you all, What are some small, but annoying things you wished you had a solution to? It can be things that you problems that frequently occur at work, home, and anywhere you go. Thanks

Question by BBQCheerios 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Web Collaboration, of Sorts

No, not the World Wide Web--colonies of spiders that build giant communal webs to catch their prey. However, there is an interesting twist: spiders maximize their food supply per spider if the colony includes 500 spiders; more than that, and each spider gets less.As the number of occupants grows, the volume of the webs they construct increases - but the surface-area-to-volume ratio declines. The area of web is the all-important determinant of numbers of prey caught, so bigger colonies catch proportionally fewer prey items.Reminds me of Dunbar's Number, the theory that says that groups of larger than approximately 150 people are no longer optimal because humans cannot effectively have and maintain that many social relationships.Spider Webs Article

Topic by joshf 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Career Advice? Answered

I'm about to finish highschool, and hopefully head off to uni However, I still am a little unsure on my career path, which I think I need to be to choose a course for uni Originally, I wanted to become a mechatronic engineer, and I was hoping that by the time I got out, it would not be so new and unfamiliar an occupation. However, I dunno if that is gonna happen.... So instead, now I'm thinking about whether I should try to become an electronic engineer for something like a section of the Australian Defence Force... I'm just looking for a path that will later on help me get a stable job, with enough money to live comfortably (i.e get a house/car). I don't really want to waste my time on a degree that will not be worth the work put in, however. What do you think?

Question by .Unknown. 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Are you a fan of Top Gear? - BBC Casting for new car mod show

Are you a fan of the show TOP GEAR? BBC Worldwide Productions has a new car customizing competition series that is casting in Southern California! We are looking for teams of two to transform their own ordinary cars into the most extreme madcap vehicles, before putting them through their paces in off the wall and outrageous challenges. You bring the personality and car, we'll do the rest. All you need is a great personality and a great story about your car, and you'll have a chance to win ultimate bragging rights and a cash prize. To meet with casting directors in July, email the following information on both you and your teammate, reply to: bbccarchallenge@gmail.com - Names of team members - Occupations - Hometown - Brief description of your relationship to each other - Brief description of your relationship to the car - Photo of each team member - Photo of the car

Topic by TopGearhead 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Wheelchair mountain bike

Hi guys, I have an idea for a go anywhere buggy that I can use on mountain bike trails instead of my wheelchair. I have a very basic design of my idea and need advice on where to go from here. I have a very rough sketch of my idea. But I have no idea of how to use AutoCAD or do anything else with this fantastic little device. So I thought I would ask all of you guys for your input. In the attached sketch. The pink represents a rigid frame. The green is suspension. The black is bicycle tires appropriate for your needs. The blue is an adjustable net seating. And the gray is batteries and motors. However my son informs me that it is possible to put the motor in the hub of the wheel. Which sounds like an excellent idea to me! My idea is to hang the frame from the suspension above the wheels.  And balance the weight of the occupant(s) and the batteries. I think that this has potential for many other applications, but I just want to go play in the woods and the beach again!

Topic by Mmjmama 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Left-handed and trying to mod the world around me.

I'm a left-handed person trying to remove obstacles in my everyday *workshop* routines. I've found one Instructable that suggests putting a chalkboard/whiteboard writing space on the *left* side of the desk. That's GENIUS! But it's not enough, and my Google-fu yields nothing more exciting across the interwebz. Do YOU have any lefty-friendly ideas?   My workshop activities--in case it helps give you some direction for responding: -beginning woodworking (I have a drill press, circ saw, and some other fancy toys) -sewing (Singer machine; also by hand) -intermediate to advanced Martha Stewart-esque crafty things Particular interests that have no bearing on my question but might help guide an otherwise vague response: -Making work spaces ergonomically healthier (I'm a 5'2 dancer/writer living with sciatica; husband is 5'11 and 38 years old with no desire to age faster by ruining his back some more) -the art and science of lighting interior rooms for their specific purpose/occupant's needs

Topic by AnnaUndercover 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Free SciFi Table Top RPG

Hey Peoples! If your interested in a Sci-Fi RPG, me and my crew have been developing for a while now. We're having fun, so we say the more the merrier! If you're into Table Top RPGs, read on. Ok, some stats. The Artifact is a Science Fiction RPG and is a FREE PDF. This 206 page book includes Four Player Character Factions 32 Character Occupations 100+ Skills Full rules for event resolution, infantry, vehicles and more 25 pages of maps A huge Game Masters section to give you all the tools for making your own campaigns A Bestiary of common animals 43 pages of vehicles and equipment But thats not all! We also have FREE sourcebooks available as PDFs like. . . The Player's Handbook - full of world info and a huge equipment section The Fringe - A setting book for combat in orbit against giant orbital cannons! Random Encounter Tables - A great Game Master ResourceThe Engineer's Resource - Enabling players to design and build their own buildings, defenses and vehicles for their characters! Come and check us out!

Topic by EmmettO 8 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Swiss engineers build Bond-like underwater car

It is called the sQuba, and it is a car that runs on land, as well as in the water. Inspired by the Lotus Espirit, in the James Bond Movie, "The Spy Who Loved Me", the Swiss engineering company, Rinspeed Inc, was the mastermind behind it.If you are heading to the Geneva car show, it is expected to make a visit there.Read the full article at SFgate.com Company CEO Frank Rinderknecht, a self-professed Bond fan, said he has been waiting 30 years to recreate the car he saw Roger Moore use to drive off of a dock.The sQuba can plow through the water at a depth of 30 feet and has electrical motors to turn the underwater screw.You'll have to break out the wetsuit, however.The car has an open top, meaning that the two passengers are exposed to the elements."For safety reasons, we have built the vehicle as an open car so that the occupants can get out quickly in an emergency," said Rinderknecht, 52.Passengers will be able to keep breathing underwater through an integrated tank of compressed air similar to what is used in scuba diving.The sQuba's top speed on land is about 77 mph, but it slows down to 3 mph on the surface of the water, and 1.8 mph underwater.

Topic by Brennn10 11 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


HSE says "there is too much HSE"

The British Health and Safety Executive has published a list of bizarre decisions justified on the grounds of "Health and Safety". Far too many "party pooper decisions" are justified by statements along the lines of "it's not us, it's Health and Safety", when, in reality, the HSE had nothing to do with it, and it is purely cowardice on the part of officials trying to avoid responsibility should things go wrong, and (even more) shielding themselves from vultures in suits lawyers in the modern litigious culture. It's not on the most recent list, but my "favourite" activity banned on spurious grounds of Health and Safety was conkers in school... From the BBC: One health and safety expert said the law required people to approach risks in a balanced and proportionate manner. "Overzealousness about trivial risks gives health and safety a bad name but there are actually many more cases where people are under-hitting," said Roger Bibbings, occupational safety adviser for the Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents. Good health and safety practice was all about "exercising judgement", he added. "People in authority such as councillors and managers need to be much more 'risk literate' or 'risk intelligent'. And third partiers such as clients, funders or insurers need to avoid requiring people to do things in the name of 'elf 'n' safety' which are not actually required by the law."

Topic by Kiteman 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Regulations on a ground effect vehicle (Australia)? Answered

A while ago, I came across the work of guy in New Zealand who had made a hovercraft that could also fly like a ground effect vehicle. (See it here) And it got me wondering..... What kind of regulations are placed on a vehicle like this? Say I (while in Australia) built a similar craft to his, only smaller, lighter, and a single seater. Well, firstly, I'd like to know if it's legal or not. I'm assuming it would be, but with certain conditions, so; What licensing (if any) would be needed for it/me? And what regulations must it/I follow? Here's what I've taken in so far, although I don't know for sure that it's accurate/true: It's legal, as long as it does not exceed a certain weight, number of occupants, noise level, etc  I'm allowed to fly it as long as it is not able to get over a certain height (a couple of metres) It's a wing in ground vehicle, so it falls under the same category as boats, so the same regulations apply. Does that mean I'm not allowed to use it over land....? It'd be helpful if you could just point me in the direction of answers somewhere else, even Thanks 

Question by .Unknown. 7 years ago  |  last reply 6 months ago


What is my problem with this program? Answered

I am using C++ I know it has something to do with the 'cin' command.  I am trying to get numbers for an array, and I've heard that 'cin' doesn't work for arrays.  The array is supposed to be variable in length. #include #include using namespace std; int main () {     string input = "";     short int choice = 0;         cout << endl << "This weight and balance calculator will determine the cg of your aircraft." << endl;         if (true) {           cout << "Press any key to continue: " << endl;           getline (cin, input);           if (choice != 0.0000001);           {                     goto WB;                     }                     WB:              int w = 0;           float d = 0;           float s = 0;    int m = w;    float tw = 0;    float tm = 0;    int weight[w];    int moment[m];                     while (true) {           cout << endl << "Please enter the amount of masses within the aircraft, including fuel and the aircraft itself: ";    cin >> w;    cout << endl << "Please enter the weight of the aircraft, occupants, fuel, baggage, etc.: ";           cin >> weight);           cout << endl << "Please enter the moment of each listed item (Weight x Arm = Moment): ";           cin >> moment);    cout << endl << "Enter the total weight: ";    cin >> tw;    cout << endl << "Enter the total moment: ";    cin >> tm;    float cg = tm / tw;           cout << endl << "The cg is: " << cg << endl;           } } }

Question by KaydenST 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Do motion-sensing light switches go bad? Answered

Several years ago, I installed a motion-sensing light switch in our entryway.  It looks like this, if this isn't the exact model: Leviton R22-PR150-1LW Infrared Motion Sensing Occupancy Switch Recently, it's started self-triggering when the lights go off.  There's an LED to show when it triggers, and the LED registers motion as expected, but also when the lights go out, the LED blinks and slowly fades over 1-2 seconds.  Right as it's fading out, the lights turn back on.  I've set the timer interval as low as possible, and the lights will now turn on and off every 30 seconds or so for hours. I've power-cycled it at the breaker, without result.  I haven't changed any of the controlled bulbs nor installed any IR emitters pointing at the sensor.  There isn't even any furniture in the entryway or anything that could be reflecting the beam or something (I'm grasping at straws here...). Really nothing I can think of has changed that would cause this behavior. Considering it's $13, I should get a new one.  But, it bothers me that a device like this would fail after a couple of years.  I would expect it either not to work out of the box, or effectively last forever.  Has anyone else seen these fail, or am I overlooking a miniature, IR-focusing spy cam on the opposite wall?

Question by ewilhelm 9 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Could one insulate their attic and/or walls with those stupid plastic grocery bags...safely and effectively, that is?

I have switched to some awesome reusable bags I bought at Office Depot that have a little bag that clips onto your purse or belt-loop. But I joke to the grocery clerks (when they look at me funny when I hand them the bags and say no more plastic) that if I bring home 1 more plastic bag I'm going to drill a hole in my wall and start stuffing them in for insulation...my question is...Could I Do That? Safely first of all, but also effectively? This would be a HUGE find if it is...We could hit a planetary Royal Flush...Reducing our energy consumption by cheaply over-insulating our homes (an option that would make it possible for poor folk to take advantage too) AND getting those pesky bags off our streets, out of our oceans thereby reducing pollution and halting the devastating effects they have had on the sea life, AND reduce the space they take up in our landfills, PLUS with this as an alternative to having to turning them in, the current backlog of "recycled" bags piling up because this economic down slide reduces the amount of these goods that China is importing to turn into future landfill occupants. So can it be done?

Question by beingteri 10 years ago  |  last reply 1 year ago


Wetsuit for 5 year old With fins/paddles

My nephew was born with severely clubbed feet, and lobster hands. After several surgeries he has ended up with with above the knee amputations, and tri-fingers with a very strong grasp. He receives intensive therapy and support, so he gets all the recreation he needs, plus occupational therapy. Well, he was recently introduced to a swimming pool and loves it. unfortunately, because of his amputations, he buoyancy is all screwed up. I would like to take a wet suit, and modify it to include a hard silicone leg prosthesis, and swim fins, and gloves that fit his fingers, with webbing, similar to what long distance endurance swimmers and navy seals use. I figure I can use off the shelf neoprene for the wet suit, and take very good measurements for the gloves. I have made patterns for outfits before, so I can layout the pieces, and have my wife or mother stitch them together. (they are great with sewing machines) For Bouyancy, I was toying with the idea of air bags made from cordura nylon and fillable from the outside with air attachment nozzles, and stitched inside the legs. They would be surrounded by hard plastic similar to the shape of his prosthetic legs he is getting used to. The torso of the wet suit would be stitched to the legs, so when his torso grew, I would cut along the seam, replace the torso as needed. Anything you guys think I am missing? I will start posting sketches and renderings as I get started on this project...

Topic by Lightcutter 12 years ago  |  last reply 12 years ago


So, EMF blocking Stickers, Pendants or Death-Crystals? Answered

Uh, how to start with this one... Local health store started carrying the latest line of emf blocking stickers and pendants. At first I thought good grief, if people are that gullible as to not look into the science behind they perhaps deserve to have there money parted from them. Several weeks later though, a symposium was booked in the local convention hall. I was surprised to learn how many people actually went to this, and were indeed parted with a fair chunk of change. If you look into to it there are numerous if not hundreds of these anti-emf scams abound on the internet all claiming only theirs works... That alone would send my spidey senses tingling. I really don't want to get in to the science behind why this is a scam, and would appreciate answers from people who know what they are talking about rather then those have been duped. Moving on... I am afraid the owner of the health store is going to get slammed on this one eventually. Normally I would say the owner of the store has a good head on her shoulders with an excellent BS sensor. Not so much, this time around. Guess my question would be how to inform her of why its a scam with out her eyes rolling into the back of her head. "Had a friend go the symposium for kicks, "she has a doctorate in bio-engineering, health science and is pursing her latest degree in occupation health sciences." To her shock and delight it was simple for her to see through the scam, but she had to admit his did provide a technical sounding argument, mixing truth with techno babble, that perhaps someone with an understanding of only layman’s terms could be persuaded by. Oh, what to do...

Question by iminthebathroom 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Pyrography Survey

Hello, My name is Nicole and I am an Industrial Design student from San Jose State University. I am currently working on a product redesign project for pyrography, specifically for the tool (i.e. solid-point burner). At this time I am conducting general research and collecting firsthand interviews with people (of any skill level) who have done pyrography. I have copied and pasted my questionnaire to craft forum, and I would greatly appreciate any contribution. Sincerely, Nicole San Jose State University – Industrial Design – Visualization III: Ergonomics/Human Factors Name: Occupation: Experience Level in Pyrography: (Please choose one, beginner, advanced, or professional) 1.      How did you become interested in pyrography? 2.      Do you do pyrography recreationally or professionally? 3.      How do you choose your pyrography projects? 4.      If professionally, how many hours do you work a day? (You may skip this question if it does not apply) 5.      How much time do you spend working on a project?  About how many hours a day? 6.      Where do you do your pyrography? Please be specific. (For example, if at home, where in your home?) 7.      What does your work area consist of? (For example, what kind of table and chair do you use? What kind of lighting?) 8.      What are your essential tools ready at your work area? 9.      Are there any DIY tools you have made? If so, what are they and what are they used for? 10.  Do you have any specific safety equipment? What kind of safety precautions do you practice? 11. What is your process of cleaning up? What do you use? 12. Do you have any injuries that affect you while working? If so, please describe. 13. What kind of tool do you use? (Please name the brand and model) 14. Do you have any specific complaints about the tool you are using? 15. If you could create a wishlist to make the perfect tool what would they be? Thank you for taking time out to participate in my survey. I truly value the information you have provided. Your responses are vital in helping me with my research for redesigning pyrography tools.

Topic by itisNicole 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Do you have any experience in pyrography?

Hello, My name is Nicole and I am an Industrial Design student from San Jose State University. I am currently working on a product redesign project for pyrography, specifically for the tool (i.e. solid-point burner). At this time I am conducting general research and collecting firsthand interviews with people (of any skill level) who have done pyrography. I have copied and pasted my questionnaire to this, and I would greatly appreciate any contribution. Sincerely, Nicole San Jose State University – Industrial Design – Visualization III: Ergonomics/Human Factors Name: Occupation: Experience Level in Pyrography: (Please choose one, beginner, advanced, or professional) 1.      How did you become interested in pyrography? 2.      Do you do pyrography recreationally or professionally? 3.      How do you choose your pyrography projects? 4.      If professionally, how many hours do you work a day? (You may skip this question if it does not apply) 5.      How much time do you spend working on a project?  About how many hours a day? 6.      Where do you do your pyrography? Please be specific. (For example, if at home, where in your home?) 7.      What does your work area consist of? (For example, what kind of table and chair do you use? What kind of lighting?) 8.      What are your essential tools ready at your work area? 9.      Are there any DIY tools you have made? If so, what are they and what are they used for? 10.  Do you have any specific safety equipment? What kind of safety precautions do you practice? 11. What is your process of cleaning up? What do you use? 12. Do you have any injuries that affect you while working? If so, please describe. 13. What kind of tool do you use? (Please name the brand and model) 14. Do you have any specific complaints about the tool you are using? 15. If you could create a wishlist to make the perfect tool what would they be? Thank you for taking time out to participate in my survey. I truly value the information you have provided. Your responses are vital in helping me with my research for redesigning pyrography tools.

Question by itisNicole 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Calling all furniture upcyclists! Help a student out!

Hello,   I am a final year Fashion Promotion student at UCLan and for my final campaign I am looking into upcycled furniture. To back up my idea I need to gather primary research and I would really appreciate it if you could take 5 minutes to answer a few questions for me. Here are the questions: 1. Are you male or female? 2. What is your age? 3. What is your occupation? 4. What type of accommodation do you live in? Rented flat Owned flat Rented house Owned house Other (please state) 5. Who do you live with? (please state their relationship to you) 6. How often do you decorate your accommodation? Once every 3 months Once every 6 months Once a year Once every 2-5 years Once every 10 years Other (please state) 7. When you decorate do you tend to do one room at a time or the whole house/flat at once? 8. When you decorate a room do you completely re-do the whole room's decor or just replace accessories and furniture to give the room a new lease of life? 9. How would you describe your decorating style? (tick all that apply) Modern Classic Kitch Bohemian Shabby Chic Industrial Other (please state) 10. Which brands do you buy furniture from? (state all that apply) 11. Which brands do you buy paint, DIY tools and materials from? (state all that apply) 12. Do you prefer to buy new homeware when decorating or use old furniture or accessories to create something new for your home? 13. On a scale of 1 to 10 (where 1 is not important and 10 is very important) how important is having unique and personalised features and accessories in your home to you? 14. Would you be interested in the idea of somewhere to take your old furniture that would provide materials and workshops to help you upcycle it into something new and original? Any answers you provide would really help and will be used only for research purposes. If you would prefer to email me your answers my email address is althexton@uclan.ac.uk. Thank you in advance! Amy

Topic by althexton 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Best Government

I have always thought that a localist, complete democracy with communist economic system was superior.  The countries' sizes would be similar to counties in the USA (30-40 miles across), because every area is different and requires different laws.  Every human of age would have one vote in all matters.  A number of people would be hired, like congressmen, to vote on trivial things that the rest of the population doesn't care to vote on, but members of that group would have no more say-so than anyone else.  Laws would be written up by lawyers commissioned by citizens, and would be added to the next ballot if a predetermined number of signatures was obtained petitioning for it. Instead of buying things with money and being paid for work, workers would be given cards (like Drivers' Licenses) that allow them an amount of food and luxuries. In order to ensure that people do all the jobs that need to be done, a sliding pay scale would exist.  Job categories would be ranked in importance by periodic votes, and ranked in terms of positions filled by computer (if there are not enough farmers practicing, the ranking for farmers would go up).  Votes to determine importance of jobs would be done by occupations as wholes (farming would get one vote, clerks would get on vote, etc. in order to prevent jobs with the most people from voting themselves most important)  In this system, the most important jobs that have the lowest worker-to-necessary-worker ratio would get 50% more luxury entitlements than people with the least-important, most-practiced jobs.  Every worker would get the same amount of food, based on number of dependents.  People who could not work due to temporary or permanent disability would be given a special card that allows food, and fewer luxuries than full-time workers, and would need to be renewed periodically, to be sure that holders actually cannot work.  People who have lost their jobs would be issued a temporary unemployment card that allows them food and few luxuries while they look for a job.  They must demonstrate that they have been looking for a job to the best of their ability to keep their card.  Students would be allowed food and the smallest amount of luxuries, and their education would be free.  Standards for workers would be determined by popular vote. While each country would only be county-sized so that it can do what is best for itself, all the countries would be part of a United Nations style meeting that mediates to prevent war and puts regulations across all the countries. So, what do y'all think the best way is?  Please be wordy.

Topic by tincanz 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Funny Labels

These are hilarious!!! There all REAL funny product lables that people have found. Here's the link to where I got them: http://www.rinkworks.com/said/warnings.shtml Product Warnings: • "Do not use if you cannot see clearly to read the information in the information booklet." -- In the information booklet. • "Caution: The contents of this bottle should not be fed to fish." -- On a bottle of shampoo for dogs. • "For external use only!" -- On a curling iron. • "Warning: This product can burn eyes." -- On a curling iron. • "Do not use in shower." -- On a hair dryer. • "Do not use while sleeping." -- On a hair dryer. • "Do not use while sleeping or unconscious." -- On a hand-held massaging device. • "Do not place this product into any electronic equipment." -- On the case of a chocolate CD in a gift basket. • "Recycled flush water unsafe for drinking." -- On a toilet at a public sports facility in Ann Arbor, Michigan. • "Shin pads cannot protect any part of the body they do not cover." -- On a pair of shin guards made for bicyclists. • "This product not intended for use as a dental drill." -- On an electric rotary tool. • "Caution: Do not spray in eyes." -- On a container of underarm deodorant. • "Do not drive with sunshield in place." -- On a cardboard sunshield that keeps the sun off the dashboard. • "Caution: This is not a safety protective device." -- On a plastic toy helmet used as a container for popcorn. • "Do not use near fire, flame, or sparks." -- On an "Aim-n-Flame" fireplace lighter. • "Battery may explore or leak." -- On a battery. See a scanned image. • "Do not eat toner." -- On a toner cartridge for a laser printer. • "Not intended for highway use." -- On a 13-inch wheel on a wheelbarrow. • "This product is not to be used in bathrooms." -- On a Holmes bathroom heater. • "May irritate eyes." -- On a can of self-defense pepper spray. • "Eating rocks may lead to broken teeth." -- On a novelty rock garden set called "Popcorn Rock." • "Caution! Contents hot!" -- On a Domino's Pizza box. • "Caution: Hot beverages are hot!" -- On a coffee cup. • "Caution: Shoots rubber bands." -- On a product called "Rubber Band Shooter." • "Warning: May contain small parts." -- On a frisbee. • "Do not use orally." -- On a toilet bowl cleaning brush. • "Please keep out of children." -- On a butcher knife. • "Not suitable for children aged 36 months or less." -- On a birthday card for a 1 year old. • "Do not recharge, put in backwards, or use." -- On a battery. • "Warning: Do not use on eyes." -- In the manual for a heated seat cushion. • "Do not look into laser with remaining eye." -- On a laser pointer. • "Do not use for drying pets." -- In the manual for a microwave oven. • "For use on animals only." -- On an electric cattle prod. • "For use by trained personnel only." -- On a can of air freshener. • "Keep out of reach of children and teenagers." -- On a can of air freshener. • "Remember, objects in the mirror are actually behind you." -- On a motorcycle helmet-mounted rear-view mirror. • "Warning: Riders of personal watercraft may suffer injury due to the forceful injection of water into body cavities either by falling into the water or while mounting the craft." -- In the manual for a jetski. • "Warning: Do not climb inside this bag and zip it up. Doing so will cause injury and death." -- A label inside a protective bag (for fragile objects), which measures 15cm by 15cm by 12cm. • "Do not use as ear plugs." -- On a package of silly putty. • "Please store in the cold section of the refrigerator." -- On a bag of fresh grapes in Australia. • "Warning: knives are sharp!" -- On the packaging of a sharpening stone. • "Not for weight control." -- On a pack of Breath Savers. • "Twist top off with hands. Throw top away. Do not put top in mouth." -- On the label of a bottled drink. • "Theft of this container is a crime." -- On a milk crate. • "Do not use intimately." -- On a tube of deodorant. • "Warning: has been found to cause cancer in laboratory mice." -- On a box of rat poison. • "Fragile. Do not drop." -- Posted on a Boeing 757. • "Cannot be made non-poisonous." -- On the back of a can of de-icing windshield fluid. • "Caution: Remove infant before folding for storage." -- On a portable stroller. • "Excessive dust may be irritating to shin and eyes." -- On a tube of agarose powder, used to make gels. • "Look before driving." -- On the dash board of a mail truck. • "Do not iron clothes on body." -- On packaging for a Rowenta iron. • "Do not drive car or operate machinery." -- On Boot's children's cough medicine. • "For indoor or outdoor use only." -- On a string of Christmas lights. • "Wearing of this garment does not enable you to fly." -- On a child sized Superman costume. • "This door is alarmed from 7:00pm - 7:00am." -- On a hospital's outside access door. • "Beware! To touch these wires is instant death. Anyone found doing so will be prosecuted." -- On a sign at a railroad station. • "Warning: do not use if you have prostate problems." -- On a box of Midol PMS relief tablets. • "Product will be hot after heating." -- On a supermarket dessert box. • "Do not turn upside down." -- On the bottom of a supermarket dessert box. • "Do not light in face. Do not expose to flame." -- On a lighter. • "Choking hazard: This toy is a small ball." -- On the label for a cheap rubber ball toy. • "Not for human consumption." -- On a package of dice. • "May be harmful if swallowed." -- On a shipment of hammers. • "Using Ingenio cookware to destroy your old pots may void your warranty." -- A printed message that appears in a television advertisement when the presenter demonstrates how strong the cookware is by using it to beat up and destroy a regular frying pan. • "Do not attempt to stop the blade with your hand." -- In the manual for a Swedish chainsaw. • "Do not dangle the mouse by its cable or throw the mouse at co-workers." -- From a manual for an SGI computer. • "Warning: May contain nuts." -- On a package of peanuts. • "Do not eat." -- On a slip of paper in a stereo box, referring to the styrofoam packing. • "Do not eat if seal is missing." -- On said seal. • "Remove occupants from the stroller before folding it." • "Access hole only -- not intended for use in lifting box." -- On the sides of a shipping carton, just above cut-out openings which one would assume were handholds. • "Warning: May cause drowsiness." -- On a bottle of Nytol, a brand of sleeping pills. • "Warning: Misuse may cause injury or death." -- Stamped on the metal barrel of a .22 calibre rifle. • "Do not use orally after using rectally." -- In the instructions for an electric thermometer. • "Turn off motor before using this product." -- On the packaging for a chain saw file, used to sharpen the cutting teeth on the chain. • "Not to be used as a personal flotation device." -- On a 6x10 inch inflatable picture frame. • "Do not put in mouth." -- On a box of bottle rockets. • "Remove plastic before eating." -- On the wrapper of a Fruit Roll-Up snack. • "Not dishwasher safe." -- On a remote control for a TV. • "For lifting purposes only." -- On the box for a car jack. • "Do not put lit candles on phone." -- On the instructions for a cordless phone. • "Warning! This is not underwear! Do not attempt to put in pants." -- On the packaging for a wristwatch. • "Do not wear for sumo wrestling." -- From a set of washing instructions. See a scanned image. ________________________________________ Assurances: • "Safe for use around pets." -- On a box of Arm & Hammer Cat Litter. ________________________________________ Small Print From Commercials: • "Do not use house paint on face." -- In a Visa commercial that depicts an expecting couple looking for paint at a hardware store. • "Do not drive cars in ocean." -- In a car commercial which shows a car in the ocean. • "Always drive on roads. Not on people." -- From a car commercial which shows a vehicle "body-surfing" at a concert. • "For a limited time only." -- From a Rally's commercial that described how their burgers were fresh. ________________________________________ Signs and Notices: • "No stopping or standing." -- A sign at bus stops everywhere. • "Do not sit under coconut trees." -- A sign on a coconut palm in a West Palm Beach park circa 1950. • "These rows reserved for parents with children." -- A sign in a church. • "All cups leaving this store, rather full or empty, must be paid for." -- A sign in a Cumberland Farms in Hillsboro, New Hampshire. • "Malfunction: Too less water." -- A notice left on a coffee machine. • "Prescriptions cannot be filled by phone." -- On a form in a clinic. • "You could be a winner! No purchase necessary. Details inside." -- On a bag of Fritos. • "Fits one head." -- On a hotel-provided shower cap box. • "Payment is due by the due date." -- On a credit card statement. • "No small children." -- On a laundromat triple washer. • "Warning: Ramp Ends In Stairs." -- A sign, correctly describing the end of a concrete ramp intended for handicap access to a bridge. ________________________________________ Safety Procedures: • "Take care: new non-slip surface." -- On a sign in front of a newly renovated ramp that led to the entrance of a building. • "In case of flood, proceed uphill. In case of flash flood, proceed uphill quickly." -- One of the emergency safety procedures at a summer camp. ________________________________________ Ingredients: • "Ingredients: Artificially bleached flour, sugar, vegetable fat, yeast, salt, gluten, soya flour, emulsifier 472 (E) & 481, flour treatment agents, enzymes, water. May contain: fruit." -- The ingredients list on a package of fruit buns. • "100% pure yarn." -- On a sweater. • "Some materials may irritate sensitive skin. Please look at the materials if you believe this may be the case. Materials: Covering: 100% Unknown. Stuffing: 100% Unknown." -- On a pillow. • "Cleans and refreshes without soap or water. Contains: Water, fragrance & soap." -- On the packet for a moist towelette. See a scanned image. ________________________________________ Instructions: • "Remove the plastic wrapper." -- The first instruction on a bag of microwave popcorn; to see the instructions, one first has to remove the plastic wrapper and unfold the pouch. • "Take one capsule by mouth three times daily until gone." -- On a box of pills. • "Open packet. Eat contents." -- Instructions on a packet of airline peanuts. • "Remove wrapper, open mouth, insert muffin, eat." -- Instructions on the packaging for a muffin at a 7-11. • "Use like regular soap." -- On a bar of Dial soap. • "Instructions: usage known." -- Instructions on a can of black pepper. • "Serving suggestion: Defrost." -- On a Swann frozen dinner. • "Simply pour the biscuits into a bowl and allow the cat to eat when it wants." -- On a bag of cat biscuits. • "In order to get out of car, open door, get out, lock doors, and then close doors." -- In a car manual. • "Please include the proper portion of your bill." -- On the envelope for an auto insurance bill. • "The appliance is switched on by setting the on/off switch to the 'on' position." -- Instructions for an espresso kettle. • "For heat-retaining corrugated cardboard technology to function properly, close lid." -- On a Domino's sandwich box. ________________________________________ Requirements: • "Optional modem required." -- On a computer software package.

Topic by LoneWolf 8 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago