Will oogoo stick to concrete or will it peel off? Wanting to know if it would be possible to cast a concrete statute.
Question by TinkL | last reply
Hey all, I have a mold of a webcam which, due to steep undercuts, I made with oogoo. Worked great! Now I want to make a rubber duplicate off of that. Only problem is silicone sticks to silicone like crazy! First I tried a sample with cooking oil and also wd-40. It still stuck. I heard cooking spray is a no-go since it actually contains silicone. In fact, they say that's what most cans of mold-release you buy are made out of. Just cooking spray! Interesting factoid, but doesn't solve today's problem. A mold-making book I found at the library said something called "spray wax" is what you need. After searching Amazon and Smooth-on plastics I wasn't able to find any mold release called that, so I just tried grabbing some cheap spray-on car wax from Walmart. That's either not the same thing, or oogoo is too different from the official casting silicone that the book was talking about. Anyway, I'm about out of clues now. Anybody got any more tips?
Topic by PS118 | last reply
Would folks who have played with Oogoo please try out the formulation at the link below: Noogoo and let me know if a) it works for you too; b) whether or not there are any differences/advantages over the initial Oogoo formula; and 3) you can see any applications for it different from standard Oogoo? It's not a published Instructable yet, I want to make sure there's something here worth using before I make a permanent post of it. Thanks, G
Topic by gtoal | last reply
I know that oogoo outgasses acetic acid, how bad is that to have on your skin? Would it be possible to coat the skin first with something like liquid glove or baking soda, to counteract the acetic acid? Thanks for any info
Question by foobear | last reply
One of the articles - "how to make handles for old screwdrivers" called for the use of oogoo
Question by noormahomed | last reply
I think oogoo would be a great material for a solid bike tire, the only problem is it wears away pretty easy so it would be nice to be able to put it inside a regular bike tire in place of the tube. I've been racking my brains but cant think of a way I could avoid air pockets and was hoping someone would have suggestions. Thanks. By the way i know solid tires ride different. I have them on one of my bikes now and they're a lot harder material than oogoo but I'm thinking oogoo would be hard enough.
Question by avocadostains | last reply
Hello! I have a question for people who use oogoo, or generally DIY silicone molding putty made from 100% silicone caulk. I want to cast oogoo molds of lego bionicle masks with polymer clay, but my issue is I need to keep the clay inside the mold in order to prevent any kind of warping, as most of it is spread a little thin (1-2mm thickness) and I don't want to end up warping it even in the slightest. Is oogoo or cured 100% silicone caulk oven-safe as long as it's within the specified temperature range? (I already know most DIY silicone putties aren't food-grade.) The silicone caulk I'm using is GE all purpose silicone I, mixed with corn starch, acrylic paint, and baby oil. The back of the tube says that it should not be used on surfaces that will exceed 400F/205C. The polymer clay I plan on using is cured at 110C, so I don't think it'll be a problem, but I'm worried exposing the silicone caulk mold to high temperatures will cause it to release some harmful chemical compounds. I looked up an MSDS sheet for GE silicone, and they had a generalized one stating exceeding the maximum temperature will cause the release of formaldehyde. Since I plan on baking these in our kitchen oven, I wouldn't want harmful chemicals contaminating a space where we cook our food. Also, if baking isn't an option, since the polymer clay is spread thin, and cures close to 100C, would curing it in boiling water be an option? (That way any water soluble chemicals would remain contained while the clay hardens.) All help is appreciated!
Topic by SixFootBlue | last reply
After making small holes in my Howard Leight earmuffs (probably ABS plastic) for the wires, I notice they don't isolate quite as well as before. First I tried mixing cornstarch and clear silicone caulk to make a Sugru substitute both to plug the holes and to attach the connecting wires to the over the head piece. Although the Oogoo initially seemed to adhere, it didn't seem to block the noise out, and after a few days it started peeling away. Then I tried something I had lying around for filling in damaged wood. It isolated sound very well and was very hard, but it too came apart from the plastic. Rubber cement held about twice as good as Oogoo, but also peeled away. On the headband strap I also tried a combination of electrical tape and double-sidded tape, but it too peeled away from the plastic. Now I'm using plastic ties, which I later read someone else on here used and add an artsy touch, but they're uncomfortable. Anyone have any ideas? I've attached a Sansa Clip+ to the earpiece with Velcro.
Topic by Nat2020 | last reply
Through the Answers section here, I learned of mixing borax, rebake into powder, and then mix alum to create a high polishable cast...and also read discussion of the use of horse hair or fiberglass fibers from insulation for reinforcing the plaster. Unfortunately, I haven't ever found enough details to test either of these methods. The other day at the store, my wife asked if tinsel would work. It never occurred to me, but it sounds like it would make sense. Have you ever tried to pull a strand of that stuff a part? Also, I'm sure right after Christmas, it would be dirt cheap and in vast supply. I have been using the plaster of paris for making mold for some Sugru/Oogoo projects. Anyone ever try this or have any suggestions? Or if anyone knowledge about the fiberglass thing that I can use as basis, that would be cool too. Also, I know there are better materials than plaster of paris, that are stronger and all, but I am trying to at least use what I have on hand first, and I know other people would find it useful too.
Question by vphreeze | last reply
We have our own homegrown substitute for Oomoo thanks to the local boy genius Mikey77 But is there any substitute for it's companion product, the very expensive ($100/gallon), two part liquid plastic stuff called "Smooth-Cast 300"? Does anyone know of a way to mix an inexpensive something up and pour it into a mold and have it harden up into a strong thing? It doesn't have to be as invincible as Smooth-cast, but .. is plaster the only option? Update: What am I casting? I found a really great ornamental tile at Habitat for Humanity and want to make copies of it Update: I'm wondering now, what if I used something from the wall/flooring department, like Mastic? Its about $34 for two or three gallons. It fills gaps and hardens to such a degree that it can't be chiselled easily. I may try this. Update: Tried mastic, it works but takes far too long to dry, on the order of three days or longer... Maybe if I mixed in some corn starch (ala oogoo?) Thank you -foo
Question by foobear | last reply
Hi. there is a new craze sweeping the craft and art community with a mono printing plate called a gelli plate. It's made out of some sort of mineral oil or gel of some sort. (i think). It's a flexible, clear mat with a soft feel and a give to it, a bit like jello. There are plenty of homemade versions using gelatin. which works fine for a while but it soon breaks up or bacteria sets in as gelatin is a food substance. Are there any clever boffin types out there that can make a similiar product that doesn't use gelatin and that has a good shelf life. I first thought of Oogoo but it's not pliable enough. This Gelli plate reminds me of the soft silcone gel that is used for scar healing, but is so expensive for small sheets. here is the link to see what I am after. http://www.gelliarts.com/pages/gelli-printing-plate-demo
Topic by Lijesm | last reply
I've been working with braiding plastic shopping bag strips into rope, and by hand it's a slow and tedious process. I know that braiding machines have been around for ages, so the patent on many of them has to have elapsed. I've Google'd and Bing'd and Yahoo'd my heart out looking for how to build a simple one to no avail. The only thing that comes back is Chinese sellers of a commercial braiding machine. All I want is something that I can build, a hand crank mechanical kind, that can braid 7-10 strands into a larger rope. It doesn't even have to go fast, in fact I'm fine with it being slow. Can anyone provide plans for one? UPDATE: Ok so I think I have plans, but now I could use some advice with how to go about fabricating the sprockets. One idea is to purchase a premade sprocket and modify it, then use it as a master for a mold to create more. I was thinking of either doing the whole dissolving styrofoam with Acetone then pouring the plastic in the mold thing, or possibly adapt the Oogoo instructable. Thoughts?? Update 2: My latest brainstorm leaves me thinking that I could use a bicycle sprocket (gear) as a master and then make a mold from it, then make duplicates from the mold. Thoughts???
Topic by DrPeper | last reply