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Open Software for Fashion Prototyping

This has got to be the most exciting thing to come down wearable technology pike! It's a FREE downloadable book about Arduino boards (both "standard" and LilyPad), conductive fabric, resistive thread, soft buttons, LEDs and more!! The eBook is split into three parts covering the basics of hardware, software and the use of the Arduino IDE (Integrated Development Environment) in the first part. Part two give examples of using eTextile materials and the Arduino to make first cool projects involving LEDs, Piezo speaker and, the Digital and analog zipper.The third part is dedicated to show how to write programs for the Arduino platform. This all might sound very technical for fashion/clothing designer but dont be afraid, it's easily explained and covers just what's needed for wearable electronics (and not for building an new space station).I cannot wait to get started with this eBook! Finally, all the mysteries I had to ask others to program for me, unravelled! pun intendedDownload yours today. NOW! at Open Softwear

Topic by scoochmaroo    |  last reply


Official Rules, Scoochmaroo Challenge: Needle and Thread

PLEASE REVIEW THESE OFFICIAL RULES BEFORE ENTERING THE CONTEST. ENTRANTS WHO ARE MINORS: YOU MUST OBTAIN THE CONSENT OF YOUR PARENT OR LEGAL GUARDIAN BEFORE ENTERING THE CONTEST. ENTRY TO THE CONTEST IS FREE AND NO PAYMENT OR PURCHASE IS NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN, EXCEPT FOR THE STANDARD CHARGES OF YOUR INTERNET ACCESS PROVIDER. A PAYMENT OR PURCHASE WILL NOT IMPROVE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. VOID WHERE PROHIBITED BY LAW. BY ENTERING THE CONTEST YOU ACKNOWLEDGE THAT YOU HAVE READ AND AGREE TO THE INSTRUCTABLES TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF USE AND PRIVACY POLICY   SECTION A – SPECIFIC TERMS FOR THIS CONTEST   Sponsor. The Instructables Scoochmaroo Weekly Challenge: Needle and Thread (the "Contest") is an on-line contest with skill, ability and knowledge components that is sponsored by Autodesk, Inc., a Delaware corporation having its principal office at 111 McInnis Parkway, San Rafael, CA 94103, USA ("Sponsor"), in connection with the Instructables service and website, www.instructables.com, (the "Sponsor Site"). The Contest is co-sponsored by the company or companies listed here, if any (each, a "Co-Sponsor"): NONE The Contest is governed by these Official Rules (these "Rules"). For any questions regarding the Contest, the Sponsor may be contacted by email at [service@instructables.com] or by phone at (01-510-473-7626) or by mail at the address identified in Section B.18 ("Winner's List; Mailing List") below. Overview; Object of the Contest. The object of the Contest is to create an Instructables project that is created using some sort of needle including, but not limited to, sewing, embroidery, tatting and cross stitch that meets the Criteria (as described in Section A.8 ["Judging"] below) and are submitted in accordance with the format, content and other requirements identified in Section A.5 ("How to Enter") below. All currency value references in these Official Rules are as indicated. Eligibility. THE CONTEST IS OPEN ONLY TO NATURAL PERSONS WHO, AT THE TIME OF ENTRY, ARE REGISTERED MEMBERS OF THE SITE, WHO ARE AT LEAST FOURTEEN (14) YEARS OLD (FIFTEEN [15] YEARS OLD FOR RESIDENTS OF NORWAY AND EIGHTEEN [18] YEARS OLD FOR RESIDENTS OF GERMANY), AND ARE LEGAL RESIDENTS OF THE 50 UNITED STATES (INCLUDING THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA BUT EXCLUDING PUERTO RICO), CANADA (EXCLUDING THE PROVINCE OF QUEBEC, CANADA), UNITED KINGDOM, AUSTRALIA, BELGIUM, CHINA, THE NETHERLANDS, COLOMBIA, DENMARK, GERMANY, INDIA, NORWAY, OR SWITZERLAND. If on the Start Date you are a "minor," meaning that you are under the age of majority in your jurisdiction (currently 18 or 19 in most U.S. states, and provinces of Canada and Australia; 18 in Belgium, China, the Netherlands, Colombia, Denmark, Germany, India, Norway, and Switzerland; and, for the UK, 16 in Scotland and 18 in most other parts of the United Kingdom), you must obtain permission from your parent or legal guardian, and your parent or legal guardian must consent to be bound by these Rules as if he or she were an entrant, before you submit an entry. Sponsor reserves the right to require minors to submit proof of parental/guardian permission and consent to these Rules at any time, without which they may be immediately disqualified from the Contest. Certain individuals are excluded from eligibility to enter or win, as described in Section B below. No purchase or payment is necessary to enter the Contest or to become a registered member of the Sponsor Site, and no purchase or payment, including choosing to purchase any "Instructables Pro" or other paid membership to the Sponsor Site will improve your chances of winning in any way. Deadline. The Contest begins at 12:00 a.m. Pacific Standard Time (PT)/8:00 a.m. GMT on September 28, 2012 (the "Start Date"). Entries for the Contest must be received by Sponsor by no later than 11:59 p.m. PT on October 28, 2012 /7:59am GMT on October 29, 2012 (the "Deadline"). (convert to local time) How to Enter. All entries must comply with the entry requirements identified in these Rules (including in this Section and in Section B below), as well as with any specific formatting or content requirements identified in Section A.2 ("Overview") above or on the "Contest Page" on the Sponsor Site. It is each entrant's responsibility to ensure compliance with those requirements. To enter a project in the Contest, follow these steps: First document your project in the step-by-step or photo Instructables format. Details regarding how to document your entry are available on the "Contest Page" on the Sponsor Site. When your project is ready to be published to the Sponsor Site, visit the Sponsor Site and follow the instructions for publishing your project to the Sponsor Site. You must be a registered member of the Sponsor Site in order to publish a project to the Sponsor Site. If you are not already a registered member of the Sponsor Site, you will be prompted to create an account on the Sponsor Site during the publication process, free of charge (except for the standard charges of your internet access provider). Please note: in some jurisdictions, the publication of your project on the Sponsor Site could materially affect rights (e.g., adversely affect patent and design rights) that you may own in the project. You should make your own inquiries and seek your own advice on this issue. If you have reviewed the entry requirements for the Contest, believe your project qualifies for entry, and want to enter it in the Contest, leave a comment on the Contest Page, and include a link to your published project. Projects published prior to the Start Date are not eligible for entry. You may not register the same Instructables project in more than three (3) Instructables contests in total. Further information about entry can be found in Section B below. Winner Selection. There will be a possible 10 total winner(s) for the Contest. The winner(s) will be selected on or around October 31, 2012, and Sponsor will announce the winner(s) on or around October 31, 2012. Each winner will be awarded only the prize(s) for which that winner was selected, as described below. Prize(s). The prize(s) to be awarded in the Contest is/are as follows: First Prize: Autumn tree embroidery kit, a felted wool coordinating leaf needle book, 1 set of 12 handmade decorative leaf pins, a felted wool coordinating leaf pincushion, Instructables t-shirt and a 1-year Instructables Pro membership. (convert currency) Or: Second Prize: Pumpkin faces embroidery kit, a felted wool pumpkin needle book, 1 set of 3 handmade decorative pumpkin pins, Instructables t-shirt and 1-year Instructables Pro membership. (convert currency) Or: Third Prize: Embroidered owl mini plush kit, a handmade decorative owl pin, Instructables t-shirt, and a 1-year Instructables Pro membership. (convert currency) Or: Special FJL Prize: If 10 entries contain the tag CF4L, one of them will win 3 shrunken head pins, a voodoo doll pincushion, and a embroidery kit with a secret creepy design. (convert currency) Or: Participation Prize: All entrants will be awarded a "Woodland Fairy" pdf embroidery pattern by Glindabunny Creations. (convert currency) Any awarded prizes will be provided to a winner only after the winner has signed a Winner's Declaration and Release. Sponsor's current Winner's Declaration and Release for the Contest may be obtained upon request by contacting Sponsor by email at [service@instructables.com] or by phone at (01-510-473-7626) or by mail at the address identified in Section B.18 ("Winner's List; Mailing List") below. The winner(s) will be solely responsible for complying with any and all applicable federal, state, provincial, local or other statutes, laws (including, without limitation, common law, if applicable), rules and regulations relating to the prizes and for bearing any personal income, VAT, withholding taxes, customs duties, or other taxes, fees, insurance, surcharges or other costs relating to receiving, claiming or collecting any prize. For entrants subject to tax obligations under the People's Republic of China, the winner shall be responsible for reporting his or her individual income tax generated from the prize to relevant Chinese tax authorities on his or her own and shall then submit the Sponsor a tax payment proof showing the tax is fully paid. If the winner fails to submit the afore-mentioned proof within a reasonable period of time as required by the Sponsor, the Sponsor reserves the right to disqualify the winner from entitlement to the prize. All prizes that are items or services which are subject to third party terms and conditions or restrictions, acceptance and use of the prizes are subject to all eligibility criteria, expiration dates, service or dormancy fees, and all other terms and conditions (if any) imposed by the issuer of such items or services, which are available on the Contest Pagefor the Contest. Please be aware that Contest prizes may not be usable or function properly in certain countries and Sponsor has no knowledge relating to the use or functionality of such prizes in those countries. Use or operation of prizes in certain countries may require additional parts, components or adapters, and Sponsor has no knowledge of any such requirements or any responsibility for obtaining any such parts, components or adapters.  In addition, certain countries may prohibit the use or operation of the prizes, in whole or in part, and Sponsor has no knowledge regarding, and shall have no responsibility for determining, whether the winner(s) are permitted to operate or use the prizes in any particular country.   The estimated retail value of each prize to be awarded in the Contest is as follows: First Prize, one (1) awarded. Autumn tree embroidery kit, a felted wool coordinating leaf needle book, 1 set of 12 handmade decorative leaf pins, a felted wool coordinating leaf pincushion, 8 Instructables t-shirt and a 1-year Instructables Pro membership. Total retail value: $ 106 USD. (convert currency) Second Prize, three (3) awarded. Pumpkin faces embroidery kit, a felted wool pumpkin needle book, 1 set of 3 handmade decorative pumpkin pins, Instructables t-shirt and 1-year Instructables Pro membership. Total retail value: $ 81 USD. (convert currency) Third Prize, five (5) awarded. Embroidered owl mini plush kit, a handmade decorative owl pin, Instructables t-shirt, and a 1-year Instructables Pro membership. Total retail value: $ 49 USD. (convert currency) Special FJL Prize, possible one (1) awarded. 3 shrunken head pins, a voodoo doll pincushion, and a embroidery kit with a secret creepy design. Total retail value: $ 30 USD. (convert currency) Participation Prize, unknown amount awarded. "Woodland Fairy" pdf embroidery pattern by Glindabunny Creations. Total retail value: $ 5 USD. (convert currency) The total estimated retail value of all prizes to be awarded in the Contest $389 USD, as described above. (convert currency)   Judging. All entries that are in compliance with all terms and conditions of these Rules will be judged on the basis of the following criteria (the "Criteria"): originality, usefulness, simplicity, and clarity of instructions, each of which will be given equal weight. Sponsor will establish a panel of at least two (2) individuals (each, a "Judge"), including at least the following: Editor of Pertinent Category and associate editors. In choosing the winner(s), the Judges will judge each finalist on the Criteria and the Judging Process as described in Section B below. THE DECISIONS OF SPONSOR AND THE JUDGES WILL BE FINAL. SPONSOR WILL NOT CORRESPOND WITH ENTRANTS ABOUT THE DECISIONS OF THE JUDGES OR THE DETERMINATION OF THE WINNERS OTHER THAN AS EXPRESSLY PROVIDED IN THE RULES. Further information on the steps and process of voting and judging can be found in Section B below. Size of Entry Pool. Winning entries will be selected by the Judges in accordance with the Criteria as described in these Rules. The chances of any entry winning a prize depends on the number of eligible entries received between the Start Date and the Deadline and the quality of that entry as compared to the other eligible entries, as evaluated by the Judges in the manner described above. Sponsor does not know in advance the number of eligible entries that will be received. The number of entries received, and the number of winners chosen, in prior Speed Challenge contests of Sponsor, including the three (3) most recently completed Speed Challenges, can be found through the "Contests page" of the Sponsor Site. The number of eligible entries for Sponsor's recently completed Speed Challenge contests generally has ranged from approximately forty (4) to approximately six-hundred fifty (103), and generally has averaged approximately one-hundred fifty (32), but Sponsor cannot predict or guarantee any specific number of eligible entries for the Contest. SECTION B – ADDITIONAL TERMS FOR THIS CONTEST General Conditions. By entering the Contest, each entrant agrees to abide by the terms of these Rules and by the decisions of Sponsor and the Judges, which shall be made in all cases in their sole and absolute discretion and are final and binding on all matters relating to the Contest. These Rules are a legally binding contract, with equivalent effect to a private contract between each entrant and Sponsor. The Contest is void where prohibited by law The Contest is governed by Sponsor's Terms and Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy and other policies (collectively, the "Policies") pertaining to the Sponsor Site, although the Rules will govern any conflict between the Rules and the Sponsor's Terms or the Rules and the Privacy Policy. Exclusions from Eligibility. Employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, or their respective parents, subsidiaries, affiliates, partners, suppliers, or advertising or promotional agencies (including without limitation any Judges who are employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor or any of their respective parents, subsidiaries, or affiliates), as well as members of their households or their immediate families (i.e., spouses, parents and children), may submit entries in the Contest, but any such entries are for information and entertainment purposes only and are not eligible to be considered for the purpose of selecting finalists or winners. Judges who are not employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor or any of their respective parents, subsidiaries, or affiliates, are not eligible to enter or win, nor are members of their households or their immediate families (i.e., spouses, parents and children). Notwithstanding the foregoing, Sponsor shall have no liability to any entrant or any other person in the event that Sponsor inadvertently awards a prize to any non-eligible person(s). In addition, each entrant acknowledges and accepts that Sponsor may be prohibited by applicable law from permitting entry by or awarding a prize to any person falling into one or more of the following prohibited categories: (a) a national or resident of Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Libya, North Korea, Sudan, Syria or any other country for which trade with the United States has been prohibited or restricted by any statute, regulation, order, rule, treaty, or other law of the United States or any other applicable jurisdiction in any manner that would prevent the awarding or delivery of any prize to the entrant; (b) a person on the U.S. Table of Denial Orders, Entity List, List of Specially Designated Nationals and Blocked Persons, or any other similar list of any applicable jurisdiction, or any person affiliated with any person or entity on any such list; (c) an official or representative of any foreign government; or (d) any other person to whom the awarding or delivery of any prize would violate any applicable statute, regulation, order, rule, treaty, or other law or any of Sponsor's policies. If an entrant falls into any of the above prohibited categories, such entrant is not eligible to win any prizes. Entry. Multiple entries are permitted, but only one entry per entrant can win a prize in the Contest. Entrants must be registered members of the Sponsor Site to enter the Contest. Registering for a Sponsor Site membership account for purposes of entering the Contest is free of charge. Entries can be the work of more than one person, but for purposes of the Contest, each entry will belong to the "Primary Author" named in the entry, regardless of the number of contributors to that entry. For winning entries, Sponsor will award the applicable prize to the named entrant only, except in the case of a minor, to such minor's named parent or legal guardian only unless specific consent from such parent or legal guardian to award the prize to such minor in accordance has been obtained by way of a duly signed Winner's Declaration and Release. (See Section A.7 above), and will not be responsible or liable for apportioning any prize among contributors to a winning entry. Upon submission, all entries become subject to the Policies (including without limitation the provisions regarding ownership and use of user submissions as stated in Sponsor's Terms and Conditions of Use and further described in Section B.15 ("Advertising and Marketing"). Notwithstanding the foregoing, entries to the Contest shall only be valid after the entry is accepted by Sponsor, and its acceptance occurs at Sponsor's location in the United States. Entries will not be acknowledged or returned. Entrants are permitted to modify or update an entry after submission, but are not permitted to do so after the Deadline. Entries may remain posted on the Contest page of the Sponsor Site indefinitely following the Deadline, but Sponsor reserves the right to delete entries from the Contest page after the Contest ends, in its discretion, and Sponsor reserves the right to delete entries from the Contest page and other pages of the Sponsor Site, at any time in its discretion, if such entries infringe or may infringe any third party's rights. Entries may not be created or submitted through any software-generated, robotic, programmed, script, macro, or other automated method. Sponsor and Co-Sponsor will have no responsibility for, and will have the right to refuse in its discretion, any entries that have been tampered with, or entries that are misdirected, incomplete, non-conforming, corrupt, lost, late, or ineligible, whether due to Internet or e-mail server failure or otherwise. Proof of transmission of an entry shall not constitute proof of receipt. It is each entrant's responsibility to keep Sponsor informed of any changes to entrant's contact or other information during the Contest. Use of Personal Information. Registering for an account with the Sponsor Site, which is required to enter the Contest, may require each entrant to submit entrant's name, e-mail address, age or date of birth, and other contact details, and in the case of a minor, contact details for a parent or legal guardian for purposes of obtaining proof of parental consent, if Sponsor elects to do so. For further information concerning how Sponsor handles personal information, as well as provisions on confidentiality and the cases in which Sponsor may be entitled to disclose entrant's information to third parties or upon request of an authority, consult Sponsor's Privacy Policy, which is incorporated herein. Additional Entry Requirements. Each entry must comply in all respects with the Policies, including without limitation all requirements for user submissions, as stated in the Terms and Conditions of Use for the Sponsor Site. Without limiting that requirement, each entry also must comply with the following: Each entry must be entirely the original work of the persons identified in the entry; If persons other than the entrant have contributed to an entry, the entrant must have the written permission from each contributor prior to submitting the entry; Entries must not have been published prior to the Start Date; Entries must not have been entered in more than two other contests of Sponsor; Entries must not contain anything that is or may be: (i) threatening, harassing, degrading or hateful; (ii) defamatory; (iii) fraudulent or tortious; (iv) obscene, indecent or otherwise objectionable; (v) deemed to cause feelings of disharmony, enmity, hatred or hostility between different religious or racial groups; (vi) protected by copyright, trademark, patents, utility models, design patents or other proprietary right without the express prior written consent of the owner of such right; or (vii) dangerous or potentially dangerous, or that would encourage dangerous behavior from viewers, such as use of explosives and/or harmful substances; or (vii) contrary to governmental policies of any country whose residents are eligible to enter the Contest. Entries must provide proper safety instructions, as applicable, such as with respect to the use of knives, cutting devices and other tools; and Entries must not contain any material that would give rise to criminal or civil liability or that encourages conduct that constitutes a criminal offense. Judging Process Judges from the Sponsor's editorial staff will apply the Criteria to evaluate the finalists, using a range voting method, assigning a value between 0-9 to each finalist. The project(s) with the highest score(s) will be selected as the winner(s), and the number and type of winners will be as identified in Section A above. Any ties will be broken using the median ballot rating approach (the entry with the highest median score wins). The Judges have the right to disqualify any entry that is not in compliance with these Rules. In the event that a winning entry is disqualified, the next-highest scoring entry will be selected as the alternate winner. In the event that one or more of the identified Judges is unavailable, Sponsor reserves the right to substitute Judges of comparable qualification, to be determined by Sponsor in its discretion. The Contest is entirely skill-based and contains no elements based on chance. The standards applied during the judging process focuses on assessing each entry's properties. By the mere submission of an entry, an entrant acquires no automatic right to be awarded a prize, nor any other right except for the right to have such entry reviewed and evaluated subject to these Rules. Prize Terms. All values are stated in United States Dollars (USD) as indicated, or as converted [currency converter] to local currency. If a stated prize is unavailable, Sponsor has the right to substitute one or more items of equal or greater value, in its discretion. No prize is, and the winner(s) have no right to claim that any prize is, exchangeable, transferable, or redeemable for cash. The winner(s) will be solely responsible for all expenses related to the receipt and use of all prize(s) other than those expenses expressly included in the description of the prize(s) in Section A above. The winner(s) will be solely responsible for complying with any and all applicable statutes, laws (including, without limitation, common law, if applicable), rules and regulations and for bearing any personal income tax, VAT, withholding taxes, customs duties, or other taxes, fees, insurance, surcharges or other costs relating to receiving, claiming or collecting any prize. Winner(s) are hereby informed of the liability to pay all taxes on the prize(s) received; such taxes shall be paid by the winner(s). Each winner shall be responsible for reporting his or her individual income tax generated from the prize to relevant tax authorities on his or her own and, for residents subject to tax obligations on the prize by any country, shall promptly submit to Sponsor a tax payment proof showing that such tax has been fully paid. If the winner fails to submit such proof within a reasonable period of time as required by Sponsor, Sponsor reserves the right to disqualify the winner from entitlement to the prize and the winner shall be deemed to have waived his or her right to claim the prize and shall be further obligated, upon Sponsor's request, to return the prize to Sponsor at his or her own cost. In addition, for winners who are residents of the Netherlands, if the estimated retail value of a prize is more than 454 Euros, each winner is responsible for payment of the applicable Dutch 'lottery tax' (29% of the prize value) and declaration thereof to the Dutch tax authorities. THE PRIZE(S) WILL BE GIVEN AWAY BY SPONSOR AND ANY CO-SPONSOR(S) "AS IS." SPONSOR AND ANY CO-SPONSORS DO NOT MAKE, AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIM, ANY WARRANTY, WHETHER EXPRESS, IMPLIED, OR STATUTORY, REGARDING ANY PRIZE OR PORTION THEREOF, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY IMPLIED OR STATUTORY WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, TITLE, OR NON-INFRINGEMENT. SOME JURISDICTIONS MAY NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OF IMPLIED WARRANTIES, CONSUMER GUARANTEES AND SIMILAR RIGHTS, IN WHICH CASE SUCH EXCLUSION SHALL APPLY ONLY TO THE EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW IN THE RELEVANT JURISDICTION. WITHOUT LIMITATION, TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, ALL WARRANTIES AND REPRESENTATIONS, IN RELATION TO THE PRIZES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED BY STATUTE, LAW (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, COMMON LAW, IF APPLICABLE), RULE, REGULATION, OR OTHERWISE, ARE HEREBY EXCLUDED. Announcement; Award of Prize(s). The winner(s) will be notified by e-mail within seven (7) days of selection. The winner(s) (and, if a winner is a minor, the winner's parent or legal guardian) may be required to sign a Winner's Declaration and Release which includes a declaration of eligibility, grant of publicity rights and a liability release, to the extent not prohibited by law, prior to receipt of a prize. The prize(s) will be awarded by way of delivery to Winner's designated valid delivery address set forth on the Winner's Declaration and Release. Unless otherwise specified in Section A, and provided that direct shipment costs by mail or parcel post (expressly excluding import duties and other duties or taxes, which are the winner's sole responsibility) to Winner's designated valid delivery address shall be borne by Sponsor, provided, however, if delivery is declined or fails by reason of winner's failure to timely accept receipt or pay appropriate import duties and other duties or taxes) then the winner will be deemed to have declined acceptance of the prize and Sponsor reserves the right to reclaim the prize whereupon the prize will be returned to Sponsor and winner will no longer be eligible to receive the prize. The winner(s) may be required to provide Sponsor with a social security number, taxpayer identification or identification card number, or other identification or account number (if applicable) (a Permanent Account Number for residents of India) for tax purposes, and will provide Sponsor with all other information as may be required for Sponsor to comply with all applicable laws in connection with the award of any prize(s) to the winner(s). The winner(s) also may be required to provide Sponsor with proof that he or she is the Authorized Account Holder of the e-mail address associated with the winning entry. An "Authorized Account Holder" is the natural person who is assigned to an e-mail address by an Internet access provider or other organization responsible for assigning e-mail addresses to the domain associated with an e-mail address. In the event of a dispute, an entry will be deemed to have been submitted by the Authorized Account Holder of the e-mail address submitted at the time of entry. Failure to respond to a winner announcement, or return any required declarations or releases within fourteen (14) days (or any longer time specified by Sponsor in the applicable winner announcement) or to comply with any of the foregoing may result in disqualification and the selection of an alternate winner. It is Sponsor's policy to assist U.S. government employees in meeting their obligations under their standards of ethical conduct; any prize(s) won in violation of those Standards should not be accepted and should be returned at Sponsor's expense or destroyed. Without limitation, Sponsor shall not be liable for any failure to deliver any prizes due to any winner's failure to accept delivery, to meet any of his or her obligations hereunder or due to the submission of any false, inaccurate or misleading information. Representations. By entering the Contest, each entrant represents and warrants that: (a) the entrant meets all eligibility requirements of the Contest; (b) in entering and participating in the Contest, the entrant has complied and will comply in all respects with these Rules, the Policies, and all applicable statutes, laws (including, without limitation, common law, if applicable), rules and regulations; and (c) the information provided in the entrant's entry, including without limitation all contact information, is true, accurate, and complete in all respects. Assumption of Risk. By taking any action to create an entry for the Contest, each entrant, on his or her own behalf and on behalf of his or her personal representatives, heirs, executors, and assigns, acknowledges and agrees that: (a) ENTRANT AND HIS OR HER PERSONAL REPRESENTATIVES, HEIRS, EXECUTORS, AND ASSIGNS HAVE THE SOLE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CREATION OF THE ENTRY, WHICH IS DESIGNED AND CREATED BY THE ENTRANT FOLLOWING HIS OR HER OWN DECISION AND INITIATIVE DEPENDING ON THE WAY, IN HIS OR HER SOLE DISCRETION ENTERANT DECIDES TO CREATE SUCH ENTRY, AND EVEN THOUGH THE CONTEST DOES NOT REQUIRE OR OTHERWISE ENCOURAGE DANGEROUS BEHAVIOR, THERE MAY BE DANGER AND RISK OF BODILY INJURY, DEATH, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE INVOLVED IN CREATING AN ENTRY; (b) THESE RISKS AND DANGERS MAY ARISE FROM FORESEEABLE OR UNFORESEEABLE CAUSES; (c) SUCH ENTRANT AND HIS OR HER PERSONAL REPRESENTATIVES, HEIRS, EXECUTORS, AND ASSIGNS ASSUME ALL RISKS AND RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY PERSONAL INJURY, DEATH, PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR OTHER LOSS ARISING OUT OF THE CREATION OF ANY ENTRY, WHETHER CAUSED BY NEGLIGENCE OR ANY OTHER CAUSE; and (d) Subject to applicable law, such entrant and his or her personal representatives, heirs, executors, and assigns are relinquishing any and all rights he, she, or they now have or may have in the future to sue or take any other action against Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, the prize manufacturers, any other entities involved in the administration of the Contest, each of their respective parents, subsidiaries, and affiliates, and each of their respective officers, directors, employees, agents, and representatives (the "Sponsor Parties") on the basis of any injury, death, damage, or other loss that may be suffered arising from any action taken in the creation of any entry, including but not limited to claims based on allegations of negligence by any of the Sponsor Parties or use of any machinery or materials. Without limitation, Sponsor Parties shall have no liability to any entrant or any other person in the event the entry or any acts or omissions of the entrant violates any of these Rules. Release. To the maximum extent permitted by law, by entering the Contest, each entrant releases and holds harmless the Sponsor Parties from any and all responsibility, liability, damages (including, without limitation, direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, punitive, statutory, and other damages), losses, costs, or expenses of any kind arising out of or relating to: (a) entry or participation in the Contest, including but not limited to disputes among individuals claiming to have contributed to any winning entry; (b) any violation by the entrant of these Rules, the Policies, or applicable laws; (c) misappropriation, infringement, or other violation of any copyright, trademark, patent, trade secret, right of publicity, privacy, or other legal or contractual right of any person attributable to entrant or any entry submitted by entrant; (d) the acceptance, possession, receipt, or use of any prize or any item purchased with any prize (e.g., if the prize includes a gift card); (e) any entries or votes that have been tampered with or that are misdirected, incomplete, non-conforming, corrupt, lost, late, or ineligible; (f) any problems or technical malfunctions (including but not limited to errors, omissions, interruptions, deletions, defects, or delays in operation or transmission) of any computer, telephone, modem, cable, satellite, network, hardware, online system, server, software, or other equipment or provider, including any incorrect, incomplete, garbled or jumbled information resulting therefrom; (g) any Internet traffic congestion or website accessibility or delays; (h) printing or typographical errors in any Contest-related materials; or (i) any other technical or human error that may occur in connection with the Contest (the "Causes"). If anyone makes any claim against any of the Sponsor Parties arising out of or relating to any of the Causes attributable to the entrant, the entrant will pay for any damages, losses, liabilities, costs, penalties, and expenses, including without limitation attorneys' and experts' fees and costs, incurred in connection with such claim. WITHOUT LIMITING THE GENERALITY OF THE FOREGOING, THE SPONSOR PARTIES SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY LOST PROFITS OR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, EXEMPLARY, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARISING OUT OF THE CONTEST, HOWSOEVER CAUSED, WHETHER ARISING IN STATUTE, TORT (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, NEGLIGENCE) CONTRACT, OTHER LEGAL THEORY OR OTHERWISE, AND ALL SUCH DAMAGES ARE HEREBY DISCLAIMED AND EXCLUDED. SOME JURISDICTIONS MAY NOT ALLOW THE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION OF LIABILITY FOR DAMAGES AND OTHER LIABILITY (INCLUDING INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES) IN WHICH CASE SUCH LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION SHALL APPLY ONLY TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, RULE, STATUTE OR REGULATION IN THE RELEVANT JURISDICTION. NOTHING IN THESE TERMS EXCLUDE LIABILITY FOR FRAUD, OR FOR PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH CAUSED BY NEGLIGENCE TO THE EXTENT SUCH EXCLUSION IS PROHIBITED BY APPLICABLE LAW Misconduct. Sponsor reserves the right, in its discretion, to disqualify any entrant who: (a) tampers with the entry or voting process, the operation of the Contest, the Sponsor Site, or affiliated websites; (b) acts in an unsporting or disruptive manner, or with intent to annoy or harass another person; or (c) is otherwise in violation of these Rules, the Policies, or any applicable laws. Termination. 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Topic by scoochmaroo  


I think you guys need a public "talk to the editors" thread in the forums.

I've been thinking that you guys need a personal public "talk to the editors" section in the forums.  There have been many times I'm working on a project that I'd like to get an editors view of what I'm doing, or that I'd like advice from the creative people there.  And it would be great to have an open line to each editor, visible to everyone, in which to share ideas and opinions.  I know we can ask questions via personal messages, Kiteman and caitlinsdad ;)))   this is more direct to each editors creative abilities. 

Topic by Attmos    |  last reply


Underground shelter has plywood as door over opening under tool shed. How to slide plywood off of opening with motor?

I have hand dug a "bomb shelter"/ multi-use "room" under my tool shop (outdoor building). This has taken me about three years, and hundreds of buckets of dirt up the ladder! It's 12 feet deep, and currently, 6 ft high, by 5 ft wide by 5 ft wide. In the middle of the floor of the tool shop, I have cut out a piece of the floor which is on hinges, and can be opened and closed as needed. A carpet covers this when not necessary to access the shelter. Nobody knows about it but me at this point. About a foot down below that, I have created a "false" top to the opening, which is just a sheet of plywood covered with dirt, which makes it look as if it is just the ground underneath the building. Currently, I am manually sliding the plywood off of the opening, which reveals the ladder down, and lights and door into the "room". What I need help with is motorizing this process. I would like to open the hinged plywood floor (manually), see just the "ground", and then somehow, activate a motor to slide the plywood off of the opening. (The way it is now, if anyone does discover the hinged opening under the carpet, all they will see if they open it is what just looks like the ground under the building.) The "false" ground/ door to the shelter opens about 40 inches, which is room enough for anyone to get onto the ladder and go down. I have explored various options, such as linear actuators, motors and pulley's, etc, but I'm stuck. I plan to make a track for the plywood to slide back and forth in. I need to be able to slide open the "door" from the top, while up in the building (motorized), and then be able to close it when down in the "shelter". Do they make actuators with that length of throw, and if so, aren't they very expensive? I've also explored the idea of mounting a nut on the board, using threaded rod attached to a motor, and somehow open it that way. I'm not sure how much the plywood weighs with the dirt on it. Thanks so much for any help and ideas. I plan to submit pictures as I can. P.S.-Not that important just yet, but once I have the motorized opening figured out, I want to either switch it on with possibly entering a code on a keypad, or somehow a "hidden" switch, like what they did in "Batman"(TV Series), or use something in the shop that looks like one thing, but would actually trigger the motor. Thanks!!

Question by stevecinstrfme    |  last reply


How can I open and close a hose spigot from 3 feet away? Answered

I have a 10-15 gallon container of water with a threaded drain plug opening near the bottom. The container is located in a storage space that is not easily accessible .Periodically, I need be able to drain the water from the container. I would like to put a spigot or open/close valve on the drain opening, but I need a way to open and close the spigot from outside the storage space. Any low tech ideas?

Question by Subaverage    |  last reply


How can I open and close a window that works on a roller from left to right?

The house we have incorporates a security panel that prevents would be thieves from breaking in. My mother is close to 70 and from the kitchen counter the door I am trying to open and close is 38" from the edge of the counter. She is 5'6 and does not have the energy to slide the door open. She usually unlocks the door and then steps outside on to the balcony and opens it from there. I want to find a way to make it electric if possible. I haven't finished the tilework so I can still run electrical lines and switches to the area. The best idea I can come up with 12v automotive power window motor that is mounted on the right side of the opening. A dog ear be mounted on the top part of the opening for support, and a dog ear be mounted on the door...just right of the LEFT dog ear support itself which will have motion. Attach (weld) a screw onto the power window motor. When engaging the window motor to open the threaded rod revolves in place and the door opens. Same happens when the door closes. My problem for when the door is ACTUALLY supposed to stop in order to be locked by the built in handle. It needs a limiting switch that is engaged to cut power when the proper distance has been traveled. I got this idea from my gate opener for my driveway, the only difference there is that it operates on a chain and has 2 limiting switches for open and close. My father wants to go a simple route and put a pulley on each side of the window and if you want to open / close the window you pull the appropriate line. I just see that as ugly and will be breaking eventually.

Question by Pyper70    |  last reply


Cutting off the top of a light bulb

Hello! I'm having a problem and have ruined quite a bit of incandescent light bulbs over it: I need to open the thing just below the thread and I have no idea how. I've tried doing it with an X-acto knife, but it never breaks evenly, and usually, there are tiny cracks along the edge. Anybody out there have experience doing this and any words of wisdom? Thanks in advance :)

Topic by TashaDax    |  last reply


Play a Collaboration Game?

Oh my... Coffee beans!.Let's try this again! ..Challenge: Oh my! I lost my precious special coffee beans! I need to travel around the world searching for them. Will you help me stay awake for that? I will need loooots of coffee for my mission ;)Design a new coffee filter! Collaborate and innovate together - find a new way to filter coffee. Do not use anything expensive and try not to create too much waste ;) Let's go!... How does this game work: 1) First collect ideas for a coffee filter here under this thread until Monday, March 04th midnight PST - write down what you think would work, freely. (Add in to the already collected ideas - challenge yourself!)2) Look at and discuss others' ideas here, while they are being collected.3) Select one idea that you like, and form teams - prototype together, form an Instructable, make it Collaborative. Or alternatively, just add in your existing Instructable and make it Collaborative. Innovate together! A very rough prototype that shows the principle is sufficient. The time limit for this step is to be announced - not more than several days. 4) Collect the 'ibles here under this thread (or I could make a collection of 'ibles if possible) 5) Let's vote and see which new coffee filter is the best! Try to win the most votes and be on the 'podium'!...I will always be around here - you could ask me anything and also give feedback :).Disclaimer: This is part of a research for my PhD at Istanbul Technical University, department of Industrial Design. The research is strictly non-commercial, only for academic purposes and not financed in any way. The only objective of this game is to encourage collaboration and innovation in communities, in a playful and fun way. Your ideas and identity will not be used or revealed, and your privacy will be protected. Thank you. e-mail: meric.taylan@gmail.com.

Topic by merictaylan    |  last reply


Computer update......disassembled....

My computer has bit the dust (more than I expected when I opened it up), and the CMOS is completely fried...so I have disassembled it and am on the older yet, computer - another Gateway, single threaded CPU and the only port it recognizes on my DSL modem is the USB port......slowing it down EVEN FURTHER.    Time to go into debt again for a new one.....*sigh*.   But this is why I haven't been around quite as much as I normally am. 

Topic by Goodhart    |  last reply


Forum eats replies

I've seen it happening before, and it's happening again for me now: I can't reply to certain forum posts even though they have a reply button. My reply just gets eaten and doesn't post; the page reloads and everything I've typed is gone, the page looks as if I've just opened that forum thread. An example is the latest posting on the thread about international entries in contests: I can't reply to the user from Taiwan who is asking whether s/he can enter. There is no error message or anything. This is frustrating and makes me not want to use the forums anymore. If it helps: I'm using SeaMonkey on XP. Can anyone enlighten me? Edited to add: it looks like I can't even post a new message (this one). I keep ending up on a blank page. I gave it several tries but it didn't work... then, ten minutes later, it worked.

Topic by Moem    |  last reply


SecondLifeGlobal.com is looking for Second Life Residents!

Active Second Life Residents we need your help!We have just opened an ultra clean free open forum involving the MMOG Second Life here at http://www.secondlifeglobal.com .Be one of the first to post and start off the community!We would like you please to get involved and learn about Second Life. This is a great way to meet new players, enter cash contests,learn and post tips for newbies and buy, trade and sell amongst other Residents.There is no obligation to join free even. If you simply wish to use SecondLifeGlobal as a reference that is ok too. So take a second and see what we are all about and we hope to see as a part of the SecondLifeGlobal community!http://www.secondlifeglobal.comThank you for taking the time to view this thread.Sincerely,JohnSecondLifeGlobal.com

Topic by secondlifeglobal    |  last reply


Nama: a project on design/art/technology.

Hello all! Some time ago I visited this forum and took lots of doubts regarding an ongoing experimental project. I would like to post the results of this work bellow: Nama, my graduation project on design/art/technology. A study about contemporary aspects of language and the sensitization of movement in search of a personal unique creative pulse. http://viraseres.com/nama/ Videos: Interactive Installation: http://vimeo.com/viraseres/nama Experimental interface for movement: http://vimeo.com/viraseres/nama-instrument There's also a recently Instructable of the interface that I made: https://www.instructables.com/id/Nama-Instrument-10/ The full concept and development documentation is available at the website, together with a DIY tutorial of the interface, and the open source files of the generative audiovisual installation. Feel free to send me feedback, critics and opinions. Thank you all for your help!

Topic by lgguts  


Nama: a project on design/art/technology.

Hello all! Some time ago I visited this forum and took lots of doubts regarding an ongoing experimental project. I would like to post the results of this work bellow: Nama, my graduation project on design/art/technology. A study about contemporary aspects of language and the sensitization of movement in search of a personal unique creative pulse. http://viraseres.com/nama/ Videos: Interactive Installation: http://vimeo.com/viraseres/nama Experimental interface for movement: http://vimeo.com/viraseres/nama-instrument There's also a recently Instructable of the interface that I made: https://www.instructables.com/id/Nama-Instrument-10/ The full concept and development documentation is available at the website, together with a DIY tutorial of the interface, and the open source files of the generative audiovisual installation. Feel free to send me feedback, critics and opinions. Thank you all for your help!

Topic by lgguts  


Hack your Servo V1.00: Make a powerful linear actuator using a standard hobby Servo

Hack your Servo V1.00: Make a powerful linear actuator using a standard hobby Servo   Provided you have the tools and the servo you can built this for under a couple of bucks. The actuator extends with a rate of about 50mm/min. It is rather slow but very powerful. Watch my video at the end of the post where the small actuator lifts 10kg vertically.   Materials List Tools list   - hobby servo - standard hobby brass tubing             -OD: 4.0mm, ID: 3.4mm             -OD: 5.8mm, ID: 4.5mm - standard hobby styrene tubing                                                 -OD: 4.8mm, ID: 3.5mm - M4 studding - 2 x M5 washers - 2 x M4 nuts - 5 minute epoxy - cyanoacrylate - grease - multi-strand cables - heat-shrink tubing   - standard tools – screwdrivers, scalpel, files etc. - dremmel multi-tool with ceramic abrasive disk, or similar - hand-drill + 4.9mm + 2.5mm drill-bits - M3 tap - M4 tap - soldering iron - glue gun - small vice - small saw - sanding paper (relatively fine) - small flame torch         http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/material_tools.jpg Procedure - I will be giving instructions based on the dimensional parameters of the Hitec HS-300. The procedure remains the same for any type servo. I strongly recommend you read the whole post before you start. So lets make a start, shall we?   - Open your hobby servo, remove control electronics, feedback potentiometer and mechanical stop on the servo’s output gear.   - Solder new cables on the servo motor’s leads.   - Drill two 4.9mm holes on the servo case bottom cover. These should be located longitudinally along the centre line and 9.5 mm from each end (this applies on the Hitec HS-300 and is also true for many standard servos but depending on your servo type there might be differences). The M4 thread will come out from the servo body using one of these two so this hole must be located directly below the centre of rotation of the servo’s output gear. Be very careful since this alignment is very important! If you don’t get it right you might have to use a new servo! The more accurate you are, the longer your servo will endure.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/bottomCover_potHead.jpg -  Measure the dimensions of the rotating shaft of the potentiometer on the servo’s original electronics – note the geometry in general. The shaft should be flattened right at the tip in order to prevent it from freely-rotating once inserted into the servo’s output gear.   - Take the M4 studding (M4 thread) pick one end and by using the dremmel and the abrasive wheel tool, replicate the tip of the servo’s potentiometer on that end. Start by decreasing the diameter of the thread, rotating it steadily by hand against the abrasive disk (normally to 3.5mm in diameter and at least 6mm in length). Try to think of your fingers as the chuck of a slow-turning lathe. Once the diameter of the thread is down to the pot’s shaft diameter, flatten the tip according to the potentiometer’s tip. The idea is that the thread must be inserted in the servo’s output gear in the same way the potentiometer did before. The better the fit the longer your servo will endure.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_modofication.jpg - On the flat tip of the M4 thread, screw the two M4 nuts approximately 20mm down its length. Following that, insert the two M5 washers. - Insert the thread inside the servo and adjust the distance of the nuts and washers down the thread such that the servo case bottom cover closes properly and the motor rotates efficiently. Basically, you have to make sure that once the thread and the servo are assembled there is no pressure between the servo case bottom cover and the nut-washer assembly. Similarly, you have to make sure that once the thread and the servo are assembled there is no gap between the servo case bottom cover and the nut-washer assembly. Once again, the better the fit the more your linear actuator will endure.   - Once you find the optimum position carefully disassemble the servo, remove the washers from the thread and use a drop of cyanoacrylate on the side of the nut that was in contact with the washers in the assembly. Let the glue to settle for 5 minutes. Unscrew the second nut by 10mm towards the flat end of the thread, and prepare a small epoxy mix.   - Put the mix between the two nuts and screw the second nut back in place. Once in place also use some epoxy on the back of the second nut as well. Ideally you should sand all contacting areas before you apply the epoxy glue. Leave to settle for at least 6 hours (even if you use a 5 min epoxy).     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/copper_thread.jpg - Secure tightly the 4mm diameter brass tube onto a vice by flattening the mounting end and use the M4 tap VERY carefully tapping as deep as possible (at least 15mm). Using the dremmel cut 10mm out of the threaded part of the tube and then verify that the created thread runs along the whole length of the small threaded tube by screwing it onto an M4 screw. Keep the 4mm threaded tube on the screw for handling purposes. Apply a layer of solder on the outside surface.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_solder.jpg - Take the 5.8mm diameter brass tube pick one end and try to sand at least 5mm into the tube (on the inside). Mount the brass tubing on the vice without squishing it and apply a thin layer of solder on the inside.   - Ignite the flame torch, take the 4mm threaded tube (holding it by the screw) and move it on the soldered end of the 5.8mm diameter brass tube which should still be mounted on the vice. Using the flame torch heat-up both tubes and carefully insert the 4mm threaded tubing inside the 5.8mm tubing until is fully inside. Use a pair of pliers and insert the brass tube by holding the end of the screw that sticks out. Hold the threaded tube levelled inside the 5.8mm tube until the solder settles. If you do not have a flame torch use a candle, your soldering iron and your patience :). Remove the screw. The end result will be the cylinder of your linear actuator.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_cylinder.jpg - The cylinder length should be equal to: the actuator’s desired working length (stroke) + length of the 4mm threaded tube which is inside the 5.8mm tube + 10mm for the mounting hinge at the cylinder end.   - The thread length should be: the actuator’s desired working length (stroke) + length of threaded tube which is inside the 5.8mm tube + length of the thread which resides inside the servo casing, which is model-dependant.   - Take the non-threaded/non-soldered side of the cylinder and drill a 2.5mm hole through, 5mm from the tip.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/cylinder_heatShrink.jpg - Cover the entire length of the cylinder with heat-shrinking tube and cut-off any excess bits. The 2.5mm through holes made earlier on the non-threaded side of the cylinder are now covered. Use the drill again to expose them and tap them through, using the M3 tap. Screw a 20mm long M3 studding or simply cut-off the head of a 20mm long M3 screw. This will act as your cylinder mounting hinge.   - Take the 4.8mm styrene tubing and M4 tap it 10mm deep. Cut a small ring 5mm in length and screw it in the M4 thread fully, from the side of the nut that was in contact with the washers (long side of the M4 thread). This will act as bushing between the thread and the servo’s case bottom cover. Ideally you should use nylon, copper or metal bushing.     http://www.01mech.com/sites/default/files/images/thread_servo.jpg - Secure the motor cables inside the servo casing using a glue-gun and use heat-shrinking tube to cover them. Assemble the servo including the thread, the styrene bushing and the washers.   - Screw-on the cylinder and you are good to go! Here is a video of the small actuator lifting 10kg For those of you that have watched my video on the MTR Rover     will understand where the idea of hacking the servo came from ;))   Soon we will be posting assembly instructions, code and schematics on how to modify a standard servo to get full PID speed and position control with 10-bit resolution over 360 degrees – continuous ;)     I look forward for your comments!    

Topic by Antonb    |  last reply


Modular humioniod robotics? Answered

Hello my name is Alex, I have a very early stage idea for a modular humioniod robotic development platform. I'm looking for information, a point in the right direction to all things modular robotics. Books, threads,forums, drunken scribblings on a napkin I don't mind. What I would really like to do is a open source collaboration, where people can make either the whole thing or just indavidual modules. What do you think? Great idea? Dumb? Totally unachievable? All comments and replays welcome, positive or negative Thanks in advance Alex

Question by AlexC229    |  last reply


How do I connect an apple "Mini DVI To Video Adapter" to a TV

I just bought an Apple "Mini DVI To Video Adapter" from micro center and my TV doesnt seem to read it at all? So far I have done this.1 Opened Mini DVI adapter carefully without breaking it2 Plugged into my macbooks mini DVI port 3 Plugged a standard S video cable from my macbook to my TV 4 Opened up the correct video output on my tv5 Got no signal on the correct input : (6 Jiggled the adapter around and my macbooks screen went blue for a second 7 nothing on the TV still8 Got frustrated and posted a forum thread about itWhat am I doing wrong can someone please help me!And yes I am using a Macbook and this Adapter

Topic by jackillac92    |  last reply


Friday Forum: Ask an Editor (pre-Maker Faire edition)

Hi guys. My name is Wade, and I run the editorial team at Instructables. I'll be answering community questions posed on this thread on Friday, May 16th from 1-4PM PST.   All questions asked and answered for today. Feel free to ask more questions, though, and we'll probably run another one of these in a week or two. If you've been curious about the site, here's a chance to get the inside scoop on what actually goes on at Instructables. how to get featured how we choose featured authors the best time to enter a contest how much meat do Eric and Christy actually consume? how we decide what prizes to give away ...and whatever else you're curious about Thanks to everyone who participated. Especially Ben, whose interrogative greed was beneficial for everyone who lurked without posing a question. For the next Friday Forum on May 30th: https://www.instructables.com/community/Friday-Forum-Ask-an-Editor-Contest-Edition/

Topic by wilgubeast    |  last reply


Ideas and information on modular robotics specifically humionoid but not exclusively

Hello my name Ian Alex, I have a very early stage idea for a modular humioniod robotic development platform. I'm looking for information, a point in the right direction to all things modular robotics. Books, threads,forums, drunken scribblings on a napkin I don't mind. What I would really like to do is a open source collaboration, where people can make either the whole thing or just indavidual modules. What do you think? Great idea? Dumb? Totally unachievable? All comments and replays welcome, positive or negative Thanks in advance Alex

Topic by AlexC229    |  last reply


Missing parts in a published Instructable

Last night I composed a new Instructable using the New Editor and my iPad II. When I opened the Instructable after publishing to make a small correction, I discovered the whole Introduction was missing, even though I had saved it to the Instructables site rather than to my device. I had to do the Instructable over and delete the original version from the site. i posted this as a comment in another thread and Kiteman suggested I post this as a separate topic. Apparently, others have had similar problems. I am puzzled because a few weeks ago I published an entire Instructable from the same iPad and everything worked just as it should.

Topic by Phil B    |  last reply


Challenge: K'nex Puzzle Box

Hey guys, so I've been looking around at some of these cool wooden puzzle boxes on instructables and being a member of the k'nex community I immediately thought that it would be really cool if a knex puzzle box could be made. So I present this challenge, try to make a puzzle box out of knex that requires some kind of trick to open (see this link to get an idea of what I'm talking about). Try to make the box as small as possible but size doesn't really matter. Good luck and I will be trying to make one too so I will post my progress as updates to this thread. Thanks.

Topic by jollex    |  last reply


Soft Circuits Workshop

Saturday, October 10, 12:30-3:00pmreMake lounge - Crocker Galleria 50 Post St., San Francisco$20 materials and refreshments included.Register at http://remakelounge.comSoft circuitry is a great way to take your crafting to another level!Whether you're coming at it as a craftster who wants to add a little extra spark to their creations, or as someone who's handy with a soldering iron and circuitry, but wants to learn more about wearable crafts, this workshop is for you.We take simple circuits and LEDS, and replace the solder and iron with conductive thread. Using simple hand-stitches, you'll learn how to integrate LEDs into your sewing projects.The final results are lightweight, flexible, washable and wearable. The techniques you learn here will open up your crafting to a world of possibility.This workshop will cover the very basics of using conductive thread, and creating a simple circuit between a battery and an LED. We'll be using Becky Stern's example as a tutorial!$20 includes all materials and refreshments. Registration Required.Additional kits will be available for purchase to take home.(Free parking and right next to BART/Muni!)plus it's taught by ME!

Topic by scoochmaroo    |  last reply


Speling Errror found, and maybe some suggestions to make instructables better?

Just today I received an email from instructables for getting a best answer, "Thanks for sharing your answer, youre so smart!" Am I the first one to spot the speling eroor? lol, maybe I am being a bit of a grammar/spelling Nazi but I think it is worth pointing out, and should be fixed for professionalism. Also, if I could make a few other suggestions, why not make the "reply" feature open up the entire comment thread? vs just the first message on a reply chain? Often I get people on my instructables constantly replying back with more questions, and when I click reply, I only see the original post in some separate page. I would prefer if this was set up a bit more like you tube, where the main video opens up with the comment you want to reply to at the very top with a reply box already open for you directly below. And lastly, when it does open up in that separate reply window, the editor looks different, with controls open at the top for bold, italics, links, etc. Personally I like this old style editor the best because it works the best. The one used with that stupid floating bar does not work well, and is annoying to use, but not only that, highlighting text to turn into a link does not work and I have to paste the entire URL into the comment making the comment longer that it needs to be. Not only that, but if you highlight text, then try to right-click on it for spellcheck or copy/paste or something else, the text will just deselect itself. I learned that if you click and drag to select the text, and press the right mouse button while holding down the left mouse button, you can "right-click" the selection this way but that does not work on laptops which do not use a truly separate left/right button. (my laptop has only tactile dome button underneath the mouse pad to detect clicks, but it uses the capacitive layer to detect where the finger is to know whether the left or right mouse is pressed. This means I cannot press the left and right mouse at the same time.

Topic by -max-    |  last reply


Help create a new art-form.

A recent recall to an old BBC thread (which has been running for six years!) reminded me that some people here like Haiku.You don't know haiku?A simple form of poemOf ancient Japan.First, five syllables,Then seven, then five againIn only three lines.There are variations on the theme (a personal favourite is the SciFaiku ), so I thought, why not start a new form - the Mak-u.Try and stick to the three lines/17 syllable format, but with allowances for creativity (as per SciFaiku), and each one to include a reference, however obscure or vague, to the making process (tools, ways of making things...).Birth of an art-form,Copyleft and open-source,On Instructables.Have a go, see what you can do.The old and the young,Together, fixing the worldWith a hot-glue gun

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


Vandergraph generator

I am interested in building a small  vandergraph generator.  I am thinking this will certainly be no taller then 2ft and likely closer to 1ft.  I understand the general principal of how it works and this should be a good first voltage project that I should have everything I need for.  What has been holding me back for quite some time is that I could not come up with a decent belt for the inside.  But I read on the forums I think that leather is a good belt to use (or human skin).  This seems very odd to me and maybe I am missing something but is this really a good thing to use as a belt?  It would be nice because I could cut it as wide and long as I need and then sew it into a belt with some thread.  I happen to have some leather laying around from some crafting I have been working on.   Then as long as I am making this thread I was wondering what the best "tube" would be that the belt runs in.  I had considered making a plexi glass tube with hot glue to hold it together.  I think it could be cool to have a see through setup.  But I want this to work as well as I can get it.  So if a different material would work better I am open to suggestions. Also I will try my best to find my camera and post step by step photos once I know what the heck I am doing.

Topic by jcaresheets    |  last reply


Woodstove

I have built this woodstove for my tiny house. I had tight space limitations. I chose a used 20 gal+/- propane tank. I cut out a door and exhaust opening with a disc on my angle grinder. Helpful hint. I attached hinges befor making the last cut on the door. It lines up perfectly. I found a piece of 6" well casing for my stack. An old piece of sheet steel for the top, in which I cut a 4" hole for my flue. I am using the tank upsied down as I am using the original valve opening, which is 3/4" pipe thread for outside combustion air. I welded the tank onto a 15" used steel car wheel for a sturdy stand. I will not be burning wood only manufactured logs like from Tractor Supply and will be making used paper for making presed pulp logs. I am letting the High Heat paint fumes air off before I fire it up. I also have a CO and Smoke Detector plus a Fire Extinguisher. There is a dampner in the flue and a thru wall fixture. It is mostly airtight. I installed 1/8" flanges on in and outside of the door. Used  a black wrought iron gate latch for a closer and some brass machine screws for bling. lol If anyone does this make sure you know what the hell you are doing, if not don't try this at home.

Topic by SamDee43    |  last reply


History of Printing Mesh

Sit in on a trade show seminar or visit an online forum, and you'll encounter countless debates about the "right" type of mesh to use. The truth is, while there are some guidelines to follow, the best way to determine what's right for your shop is by trial and error. Only problem is, who has the time to experiment? There are literally hundreds of mesh types out there. Trying to choose the best one can seem like an overwhelming task, but by following some general rules of thumb, you can narrow down your mesh choices to a dozen or so. Then testing each kind won't seem so unmanageable. Specs. It may look like the screen on your back door, but screen printing mesh isn't the same kind of material. The biggest difference is that unlike what keeps bugs out of your house, this type of mesh is made from fabric, not wire. For this industry, monofilament polyester is the most frequently used mesh material. When you start shopping for mesh, you'll also need to determine the weave, count, thread diameter and color that's best for your shop. The type of weave is a no-brainer. When researching mesh, you may come upon the terms plain-weave and twill mesh. The difference between the two is how the threads are woven to create the mesh pattern. Make sure you purchase plain-weave mesh instead of twill mesh, which can cause moiré problems, especially in the high mesh counts. Mesh is often referred to by its mesh count – i.e. 120 mesh, 230 mesh etc. – representing the number of threads per inch. The lower the count, the bigger the mesh openings. Low mesh counts are commonly used with specialty inks such as glitter and puff to allow big ink particles to reach the substrate. High mesh counts are mainly used to print fine details and halftones. Printing through high mesh counts also produces a thin layer of ink on the garment, creating a soft hand. Mesh with a count that falls somewhere in the middle is what most screen printers rely on for their basic, everyday print jobs. The last factor you'll need to decide on is thread diameter. Until a few years ago, terms such as S, T and HD were commonly used to refer to thread diameter. Now, however, a more universal method of referring to the diameter number (in microns) helps keep consistency throughout the industry. While there's no standard thread diameter for each mesh count, there's generally a heavy-duty and a light version for each mesh count. The thinner the thread, the better the detail, but the weaker the fabric. The mesh manufacturer or your local distributor will help you weigh the benefits of each and determine what's right for your individual shop. As you shop for mesh, you're sure to come across different colors. Mesh is typically offered in white and yellow, although orange is available from some manufacturers. During exposure, a white mesh will refract the light similar to the way in which a fiber optic cable works. The light travels down and out, affecting edge definition and quality. This isn't as important with lower mesh counts, but when you're doing a lot of fine detail and halftone work, such slight adjustments will show up in the final print. For this reason, many printers stick with white for lower mesh counts, but use yellow or orange for higher mesh counts. Assess Your Need. Everyone has a preferred type, but there are some general guidelines to go by when you're in the market for mesh. Look around your shop and you'll find clues to what type of mesh counts you should be printing with. The three factors to base your decision on are the type of garments you're printing on, your ink type and the kind of frame system that you use on a regular basis. You'll also need to take into account the type of print jobs you typically do. For most screen printers, T-shirts are the order of the day. They can probably get by using a middle-of-the-road mesh count such as a 110 mesh. However, if you print a lot of athletic numbers and use thick ink to withstand the rough treatment jerseys encounter on the field, you'll probably need a coarser mesh count to allow the thicker ink to reach the material. In such cases, it's not necessary to use a high mesh count. On the other hand, if you do a lot of halftone and fine detail work, you'll need a higher mesh count to retain the minute details in the design. Also let your distributor or manufacturer know what type of frame system you use, as some types require sturdier mesh (and higher thread diameters) to withstand repeated use. In general, most screen printers find that a 110 mesh count will work fine for most jobs. The key word here, though, is "most." Don't rely on 110 mesh for each and every single job. Instead, try out different mesh counts with different print jobs, and keep a record of your production results. Note the mesh type, screen tension, type of ink and whether the print job is multicolor, process color, etc. Also note the garment type: Are you printing on a nylon jacket or a cotton T-shirt? Regularly reviewing your records will help you see a pattern, and decide which mesh tends to work best with a particular ink and design combination. You'll be surprised by the varying results between your "everyday" mesh count and one that's a little higher or lower. If you want to experiment with different mesh counts, start with the coarsest mesh and work your way up to the higher numbers, noting how the print looks with each version. Hit the Trail. Most screen printers have an established local distributor that they order supplies from. Others may prefer to order directly from the manufacturer. To find a list of mesh distributors and manufacturers, check out IMPRESSIONS' 2003 Sourcebook. Decoding the Salesspeak. The world of mesh can get a little technical. Here are some key terms to help you navigate the terminology: Low-elongation (LE) mesh – Most monofilament polyester fabrics are low elongation. The term refers to the mesh's ability to retain its tension level. In the past, stretching screens required tensioning the mesh to say, 25 N/cm, letting it relax to a lower tension then repeating the process. Today's low elongation mesh typically only requires one go-around. Monofilament polyester mesh – Some printers who've been around for years still use multifilament polyester mesh. However, the majority of the industry has switched to monofilament. Although it must be abraded for good emulsion adhesion, monofilament mesh tends to stretch, hold tension and print better than multifilament mesh. Plain-weave mesh – Almost all mesh for the textile printing industry is plain weave. The term refers to the method by which the threads are arranged to create the mesh openings. Warp – The threads that run the length of a roll of mesh. Weft – The threads that run the width of a roll of mesh. The Numbers Game. Mesh is typically ordered by the roll, usually in yards. The price depends on the width of the roll (40", 50", 60" wide, etc.), the mesh count and the color. White mesh is not quite as expensive as yellow or orange mesh, because it doesn't go through the dying and rinse processes. Setup Surprises. Be careful how you open the packaging surrounding your new roll of mesh. Avoid using a knife if possible – mesh can be damaged just by being carelessly opened. Once you've opened your new mesh, store it someplace out of the traffic flow. Try hanging it on a wall like a paper towel roll. Getting it up and off the floor can prevent accidental damage. Keeping the roll visible also allows staff to monitor the supply. Don't wait until the last minute to order mesh – you may not be able to get a new supply in time for that next rush job. Care and Feeding. Once you stretch your screens, what can you do to keep the mesh in top shape? For one thing, be careful with your screens. While coarse mesh can withstand more wear and tear, high mesh counts can be easily damaged when moving them around the shop. To extend the life of your mesh, try stretching your screens so that the squeegee stroke runs parallel to the warp. After several print jobs, who can remember what the mesh count is on a particular screen? To help keep confusion to a minimum, consider writing the mesh count number directly on the screens or frame. Or, color code your stock: white for lower mesh counts, yellow for the more detailed work. So while there's no hard rule for what mesh counts to use, knowing what to look for can help you find what's right for your shop. – CW from Internet

Topic by sharefilters  


Convert sound signal to dry contact signal?

This might be a bit of a strange question, so will try and word it so someone can follow along. I posted a thread previous about getting my doorbell chime to work with SmartThings.  What I now have is a sensor with external input.  The keep it simple, there inputs are GRND and IN.  When the 2 inputs are joined, the device reads CLOSED and when they are apart, the device reads OPEN...perfect. I've been trying to find a point on my Chimes circuit board that would create a dry contact between 2 points to trigger the sensor, but I'm not having a great deal of joy. There are however, 2 wires running from the board to a speaker in the unit.  Is there anyway I can get convert the signal to the speakers into a signal which would connect the 2 wires? I know a speaker is an electromagnet that responds to electric signals, but wasn't sure if there was something preventing the contact being made between the 2 sensor wires

Topic by K20Evo    |  last reply


Got stuff, need ideas!

Hi everyone!  I work in industrial bearing distribution, and every now and then something falls into my lap that I get to play around with.  Today we got a bunch of bearings back that had been made slightly different than the customer had requested.  So, I've got a big box of these things.  There's nothing wrong with them, it's just that the little tapped holes are slightly misaligned and can't be used in the original application.  They are designed to press lightly onto a 5/16" shaft.  The tapped holes are 6-32 thread.  Also, I can easily get cheap 5/16 shafting and I've got a crate full of 5/16 single split and double split shaft collars. My question is, what would you do if had all of these little guys?  I couldn't bear to send them all to the steel recycling place, as they're perfectly good bearings and pretty neat to boot, but I'm not sure what to do with them.  I thought I'd throw it open to the group--any ideas?

Topic by depotdevoid    |  last reply


Automated fluid dropper

Hi, I want to release droplets of water one-by-one on command, and have been doing some research on how to do that, but I'm wondering if anyone has some other ideas or has heard of a ready-made solution. So far I have come across: ======== -peristaltic pumps with really low flow rates, like the one here http://aptinstruments.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store;_Code=AI∏_Code=SP100VO&Category;_Code= It goes down to 0.09 ml/minute, which should be small enough. I can selectively turn the pump on and off, feeding water to a small tube or dropper end, producing the water drops. These are pretty expensive, the cheapest one I've seen is around $60. ======== -DIY systems like the one pictured here with a solenoid opening and closing a safety pin on a tube. http://www.maggiecarsonromano.com/index.php?/projects/what-made-the-wound-wound-the-thread/ Maybe I could tune the distance of the solenoid so it just opens the pin a tiny amount, and a drop or so is allowed through. ======== -or I could use a more typical water pump, attach it to something with a really small aperture. I could turn the pump on and off. I have a hard time picturing drop-by-drop control with this, I might be able to release very small amounts, and maybe some 2nd reservoir between the motor and dropper could be designed to aid this. ======== Is there a ready-made solution to what I'm trying to do? If I just get a regular water pump what should I look for? Ideally I'd like to get a pump that's as quiet as possible, too. Thanks bros. Josh  

Topic by djdune    |  last reply


Why have 'they' not made a cellphone with a learning remote?

How often are you spending more time looking for the TV, DVD, Stereo remote than the time it would actually take to just get up and push the button on the unit? Cordless phones have 'pager' function where you can press a button on the base unit causing the handset to beep. A lost cellphone may be found by ringing it. But very few manufacturers of entertainment system (that i have come across) include a "finding' feature with the units' remote control. WHY NOT? Surely Cellphone manufacturers could "easily?" include a learning remote with the rest of the 'hugely useful' features on them the we use EVERYDAY...like FM radio, biorhythms, international roaming, bottle opener. You see my theory is-- a. that I tend to know exactly where my cellphone is 99% of the time. It is personal. b. The TV, Stereo etc. remote on the other hand are communal. I mean other poeple, like my kids, use them often and thus the remote gets left ANYWHERE. So the two ideas i have put forward is 1. Learning infrared remote in a cellphone and 2. a pager for a remote (new thread pending)

Topic by GreyGhost2    |  last reply


Desktops Of July

Right, This month it is my turn to host the monthly desktop thread started by gmjhowe. My my July has come round so fast and so much has happened in this time.What are you all waiting for, Get printscreening and show off your desktop. Don't be shy!To take a picture of your desktop on a windows machine use the printscreen key on your keyboard, Open up paint, Edit, Paste and then save this as a png. then upload this onto Instructables.To take a screenshot on a mac use the apple key, Shift and 3. This will save the picture to your desktop then you can upload it to Instructables.To take a screenshot in Linux go to Applications>Accessories>Take screenshot. If this doesn't work blame Lithium Rain ;-)Right for mine on my EeePC this month I'm using the Striped VS Visual Style from lassekongo83.The wallpaper I'm using was sent to me from a user on Assembler Forums so I'll upload that below, It is of vomiting fruit, I love really random wallpapers like that. It matches my random personalty.The icon set is Dark Theme for IconTweaker which is a free program to change your icons.What are you all waiting for, Get them on here and if you haven't changed it from last month change it now! Update: Nice desktops everyone, Keep 'em coming!

Topic by Joe Martin    |  last reply


Help with an old circuit diagram, please?

Remember my inductor thread?Well, I'm getting closer to my project. The bulk of the device is to be based around an old transistor radio. I've got hold of one (a Phillips D1018/05, if it helps).Wonderfully, I opened the radio to find it has the circuit diagram stuck inside the back cover.Unfortunately, it's only half an inch high, so, I've scanned it.Now, I have a problem:The directions I am working with are vague:Try removing the Ferrite tuning coil and then replacing it with (another detecting component which I have, but if I name it the surprise will be lost) with a 12mH inductor connected in parralel.Spelling aside, I was happy with this, until I opened the radio and found that the antenna has four wires connected to it.So, I need a few answers:In the circuit diagram, which part is the ferrite tuning coil / antenna? I think it's part of the bottom-left corner of the diagram, but I need to confirm this.The four wires all disappear through the same hole, but one is stained blue and one red - which ones should I be dealing with?The component I am replacing the coil with is polarity-sensitive. The vendor was very careful to indicate the negative electrode - which way round should I connect it? I think I need to connect the negative of the component towards the bottom lead of the circuit diagram, but I want to make sure before I kill the component.I know these are potentially-noob questions, but this is my most expensive project so far, and some of the parts required subversion to acquire, so I don't want to mess it up.(If there's anything I've forgotten to ask / say, please let me know that as well. I'd rather not reveal the nature of the final project; it's not for a contest, but there's nothing like it on the site yet. If useful advice depends on knowing what the component is, then I will reveal it, but I'd prefer not to spoil the big unveiling.)

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


Desktops of Oct & Nov - Creative Patch Addition

Want to get another patch? Last months desktop wallpaper thread did excellent, it would seem you loved the idea of getting some patches for your work. This month I am going to ask you to work harder for your patches! I want to encourage your creativity, so dig out one of your best digital photos, whip open photoshop, or show off a great new interface. All unique, creative and personal desktop screenshots will get a patch! Unique, creative and personal means we are looking for something new and fresh, not just a wallpaper grabbed off deviant art! Whether its a custom interface, or a home made wallpaper, just something that is unique to you. This month I have a couple of home made wallpapers to show off, I created both of these from scratch. By scratch I mean I actually cut up those bits of card, and glued those bits of marble. Both wallpapers were then accented and grunged up in photoshop. I then used geektool to match the type already on the card to make the date and time blend in. Tinkertool adds a few extras, including the modded dock, and menu bar items. Little Snitch runs in the menu bar, keeping an eye on what programs are doing. 3rd screen has a picture of my Fiance - as always :D 4th pictures shows my crazy screen set up! What are you waiting for? Post your most creative desktop set up, and claim you patch! Be sure to explain any fancy programs you have running also. To take a picture of your desktop on a windows machine use the printscreen key on your keyboard, Open up paint, Edit, Paste and then save this as a png. then upload this onto Instructables. To take a screenshot on a mac use the apple key, Shift and 3. This will save the picture to your desktop then you can upload it to Instructables. To take a screenshot in Ubuntu go to Applications>Accessories>Take screenshot. If this doesn't work blame Lithium Rain ;-) PS, I know this is like 28 days late, but I have been busy (I get married on the 7th of Nov!), also doing a joint two month edition means I will be able to check back and dish out patches!

Topic by gmjhowe    |  last reply


Replacing an old bathroom fan

This is an idea someone may be able to use, but it does not quite rise to what I would want to do as an Instructable. A widow friend has two bathrooms, each with a very dated bathroom fan in need of replacement. I was able to mount the works (fan motor, fan blade, and mounting plate) for the new fan onto the old mounting plate after modifying the old plate. This saved me hours of work in a very hot confined attic when time and tools available to me were quite limited. Had I torn out the carcass for the old fan and tried to put the new fan carcass in its place, I would have needed to fashion a wooden framework for mounting the carcass that would fit just right between the ceiling joists, all so the fan would be properly centered above the existing hole in the ceiling.  The mounting plate for the new works was just a bit smaller than that for the old works. The height and diameter of the new fan cage were very close to the dimensions of the old fan cage. I began by using a cutting wheel on an angle head grinder to cut through the old mounting plate around the circumference of the old fan cage. Then I positioned the old mounting plate over the new works and its mounting plate. The glass dish that would cover the light bulbs fastens to a shaft that screws onto a threaded stud centered between the corners of the new mounting plate. I sighted across the corners of the mounting plates so the threaded stud was centered. I clamped the two mounting plates together and drilled four holes for 10-32 screws 1/2 inch long and secured them with nuts and lockwashers. (I did need to cut out part of the new mounting plate so the fitting for the two electrical outlets [fan and light] were accessible to plug in both the light and fan cords.) Had the glass dish mounted to the works differently, I would have used measurements from at least two sides to the center of the fan's shaft to position the new mounting plate on the old. Once the two mounting plates were held together with four screws it was a simple matter to put the works into the old carcass and plug in both the fan and the light to their respective receptacles. There was no question the works would fit because they were attached to the old mounting plate that had been taken from the old carcass. The round opening in the ceiling drywall bordered on being too large to be covered by the escutcheon for the new cover/light fixture. I added some drywall spackling around the edges to close any imperfections and gaps. For me this was an idea that worked and saved me a lot of time.  

Topic by Phil B    |  last reply


(newsletter) Business Card Catapult, Easter Prank, Handheld Tesla Coil...

Sign-up for this newsletter: We're now running FOUR awesome contests, so get to work on your Instructables! Earthjustice United States of Efficiency Contest - Create an energy-saving Instructable and you could win a MacBook Pro! Klutz Rubber Band-Powered Contest - Open to any rubber band-powered contraption. Win cool books from Klutz! Closes for entries on April 19!Burning Questions 7 - Answer our questions and win the love of thousands, or at least a spiffy new t-shirt! Epilog Challenge - Enter any awesome project with a green twist for the chance to win an Epilog Zing laser cutter or gift certificates from Ponoko! Closes for entries on April 19! The April Fools Contest and ThinkGeek Hacks Contest have closed for entries and are in the voting phase. Check them out and vote now! Make an Irretrievable Easter Egg The Business Card Catapult Power Glove 20th Anniversary Edition How to Make Kimchi / Kim Chee Closes for entries on April 19! Win a MacBook Pro! Make a Korg Kaossilator Guitar How to Thread Eyebrows Walking Papercraft Mech Warrior How to Make an Atari Game Featured questions from our new Answers section: How do you make a small but very strong electromagnet??? How can I make a hole in a glass bottle? Camera Light Ring Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day LCD Articulating Bracket for Cheap Quick and Dirty "Tesla Coil" Stretch, twist, and power something cool! Only the best for you Rubber-Band Powered Altoids Boat Hydroponic Food Factory Domo-Kun Backpack Add a Shower to your Toilet Sign-up for this newsletter:

Topic by fungus amungus  


Project ideas for a MacGyver game?

My cousin is joining the army this summer.  He's going to be a bomb defuser! We're going to give him a big send-off before he goes but we want to send him off with a little training. Another of my cousins is going to weld together a "bomb" shell and we are going to try to make it a puzzle that he has to solve / defuse using nothing but his MacGyver/ MacGruber  bomb disposal kit that we'll give him. He'll have things like matchsticks, tube socks, duct tape, etc.... and he'll have to use that stuff to defuse the "bomb" The most obvious thing I want to build into this thing is a countdown timer.  That's probably what he'll find when he gets all the way into the center. I want it to do two things:  Not activate until a pressure or momentary switch is RELEASED (he'll open a little door or something which will start the clock ticking) and I want the timer to stop when he cuts the correct wire.   Obviously it's just a toy, so it doesn't need to be particularly fancy or functional.  I'm not hunting for diagrams that could be used to build a  real detonation timer.  In fact the cheaper and cheesier the better, especially since my skills in this area are pretty limited. I know how to build an electronics project according to specifications, but I don't know much about designing circuits.  Does anyone know of an instructable out there that fits my description? Or at least gets close?   Have any other awesome ideas for stuff we should include in our MacGruber puzzle?  My cousin has an insidious idea for bolting it shut with a bolt that is threaded half clockwise and half counterclockwise.  you can get the nut halfway off but then it won't turn anymore unless you start turning it the opposite direction, which nobody ever figures out.

Question by UselessTrivia    |  last reply


2008 Instructables and Universal Laser Cutter Contest Finalists

The winner has been announced here!Instructables and [www.ulsinc.com Universal Laser] are happy to announce the 14 finalists in the Laser Cutter Contest. Ten of the finalists were selected by judges at Instructables.com. The other four finalists were the Instructables that had the two highest pageviews or ratings as of Monday morning, Jan. 7.The authors of these Instructables are all in the running to win a VersaLaser worth over $15,000. Now we turn the voting over to you. Click on the "Vote!" buttons below the Instructables to submit your vote and help decide who wins the grand prize. You can vote for more than one Instructable and voting closes Jan. 31. Judge-selected Finalists(in alphabetical order) Autonomous Foosball Table Build a Greenland Kayak Build a Wind Harp! Build yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt Extreme Business Cards Giant Fresnel Lens Deathray How I built a carbon bike frame at home (and a bamboo frame too) How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) Laser cutter, start slicing stuff for under 50 dollars Laser Image Projector Ratings and Pageviews Finalists How to Make a TRON Style Lamp: The MADYLIGHT How to build a sit down driving arcade cabinet The Spiral Data Tato -- A Curiously Complex Origami CD Case Blu-Ray Laser Phaser! Second Place The authors of these Instructables win a robot t-shirt and a laser-etched plaque. Listed in alphabetical order. 30 minute USB microscope The Ambience Enhancer Autonomous, Wirelessly Controlled Hovercraft Conductive Glue And Conductive Thread: Make an LED Display and Fabric Circuit That Rolls Up. Cool Wave Ring Dollar Store Parabolic Mic Handcut inlay A Home Power Plant - Wind Power Generator Revised How to Make a Color-Changing Lighted Faux Fur Scarf How to make a pair of Angel Wings How to Make an OAWR (Obstacle Avoiding Walking Robot) Make DIY Vanilla Extract "Quicksilver" Retro-Future Scooter from appliances and scrap metal Solid Wood Digital Clock The Stirling Engine, absorb energy from candles, coffee, and more! Squishy Breast Stress Relief Toy TiggerBot II Robot Tube Amp Rebuild (and Mod) U-Disp - The Digg (tm) display (Open Source)Wooden Gear ClockThank you to all the judges: ewilhelm, jesse.hensel, PT, randofo, intoon, canida, noahw, stasterisk, fungus amungus, lebowski, T3h_Muffinator, and bofthem.

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


12v solar panel/battery setup project- NOT lead/acid

Hi, I have a project that I'm trying to design/build and could use some help/advice with some of the electrical theory. I feel like this should be really simple but I'm having a lot of issues. I have done a lot of googling but can't seem to find applicable answers so I started my own thread. Any help will be greatly appreciated! If I can solve this, I will be happy to write up a detailed instructable so that others can use this information as well.  The short version: Trying to build a lightweight solar panel>battery pack>UHF radio charging setup. Nominal voltage is all 12v. I'm having difficulty regulating amperage between the units. The long version: My friend is in charge of a campsite which needs to have a 2-way radio on at all times. They need to be able to charge these radios on-premise because they are out there for a little over a week at a time. A solar panel seems ideal for this application. The whole charging setup needs to be lightweight since it is a >10 mile hike into the campsite. Ideally, I would like to use an array of NiMH AA batteries because they are small, relatively cheap, and can be replaced easily if there is an issue. I am also under the impression that they handle repetitive charge/discharge cycles well. I am not married to that though so if there is a compelling reason to use lipo or something else, I am open to that. The radio: is a Motorola Radius CP200. The wall charger that comes with it outputs 14v at 1.5 amps. The battery in the radio (according to the sticker on it) is 7.4v 16.21Wh lithium ion. Setup 1 that I've been trying: I have a 12v solar panel charging a pack of AA NiMH batteries. I started with an 8-pack holder but moved up to a 10-pack to increase voltage and total mAH a little. I've been using little voltage regulators in between the solar panel and the batteries as well as between the batteries and the radio. These function as diodes and help me get the correct charging voltage. My problem is that I can't regulate the amperage. The battery pack will pull as much as it can from the solar panel, and the radio will pull as much as it can from the battery pack. What ends up happening is when I first plug the radio into the battery pack, it works fine. But after a couple minutes, the amperage skyrockets to like 3 or 4 or more amps. The voltage regulator hits some sort of thermal protection limit and the whole thing shuts down. I tried throwing this amperage regulator in there as well to keep it below 1.5 amps, naively thinking that it would just affect the amperage and not the voltage. But what happens is when it's in constant amps mode, it just cuts the voltage to compensate and keeps the total power the same. Setup 2 that I've been trying: I thought maybe since I was having issues with the 'smarts' of these batteries charging and discharging, I would switch over to USB battery packs since they have a lot of built-in protection circuitry. I got this solar charger, an older version of this battery pack, and used the same voltage regulators to step up the voltage from 5v to 14v to charge the radio. I get the same issue of high-amperage discharging of the battery pack. I tried using this step-up converter between the battery pack and the radio but it doesn't seem to work or maybe I'm not using it correctly (I can't seem to get the adjustment pots to actually do anything...). It seems like I'm thinking about current wrong or something. Any suggestions or insight into what's wrong with my approaches would be super helpful. If anyone has any suggestions for radically changing my approach, I'm open to those as well. Thanks for reading!

Topic by Cking0987    |  last reply


Longest Comment on Instructables (Possibly)

Https://www.instructables.com/answers/What-essential-tools-should-I-include-in-my-dorm-r/The longest comment on this site is one by Guardian Fox on the "What survival tools should I keep in my dorm room tool box?" If anyone can find a longer one, please PM me the link.Keep in mind, he typed this with his own fingers, not by holding down the paste command for a day. If that's what you want, then go to https://www.instructables.com/community/the_forum_for_spam/ Source: Guardian FoxFor the dorm room, you only need a few tools. You're not going to be renovating, and you're not going to be doing much woodworking. You aren't allowed to do anything at all to the room beyond hanging pictures (if that), and most dorms forbid power-tools in the rooms no matter what you're use them for. Here's my take on what you'll need for the dorm. I've included a lot of things that seem unnecessary, and you can probably live without some of it... but the kit will get you through nearly any problems you'll encounter at school or in an apartment:-At least one decent multi-bit screwdriver. Look for something with a comfortable grip and sturdy construction. Avoid gimmicks like built in flashlights. I recommend the Piquiq brand which comes in a few different sizes and can be found in many hardware stores in North America. You can usually get their three-piece set for less than $20.-A set of jeweler's screwdrivers. Get a cheap set because these little things WILL get lost. Look for something with at least a few unusual bits as well as the usuals. Get a 30ish-piece set for less than $20. Most handy if you've got a thing for messing with your electronics, but also great for changing a watch battery, fixing glasses, etc.-A basic hammer. Nothing fancy needed here, and I've always preferred an ordinary wooden-handled hammer anyway. Go for a smaller hammer if you only plan on hanging pictures, get a regular-sized hammer if you plan on using it to do real work later on. Stanley is a good brand with decent prices, but there are lots of good budget-priced hammers out there. Drop by a hardware store and pick one that feels good in your hand. Less than $20 for a brand name. $10 or less for a bargain hammer. Make sure the head of the hammer is securely attached to the handle, no matter what brand you pick but a little tiny wiggle is ok. Hang a picture or tap a few finishing nails into a small project. Very handy, even when you use it wrong.-Two utility knives with snap-off blades. One with the small size, and the other with the larger size. There are hundreds of brands of these on the market, and a lot of them are junk so spring for an Olfa (the best i.m.o.) if you can find it. Richard is a decent low-cost brand which is often found in paint stores. Again, avoid gimmicks. The most important thing you need to know is if the locking mechanism works well or not, as a utility knife can become dangerous if the blade is going to slide around while you're using it. Good knives can be around $10-20 each. Cheap, "disposable" knives can be found for less than a dollar, but be sure to buy something that seems sturdy. Add a self-healing cutting mat from the dollar store, and while you're there get a metal ruler for cutting straight lines. Smaller utility knives are good for light-duty applications like trimming photographs or opening packages. Larger utility knives are good for harder work like cutting lots of cardboard-A measuring tape. You probably already have a ruler for school, but a measuring tape is much more useful for around the house. Get a 16' tape for good versatility. Choose one that has a sturdy housing and a tape that slides in and out easily. Bennett is a good budget brand you can find for less than $10 and I recommend theirs over any of the name-brand tapes out there. If you can't find that brand, go to the building supplies store and ask what brand the clerks and outside staff use around the shop. You could skip this one during college, but you'll need it one day and it's the kind of thing you can make uses for.-Pliers. For around the house and crafting I find a pair of long-nose pliers more handy than a pair of linesman's pliers, but both tools have their place. Locking pliers (aka vice grips) are also super-handy. Get one or a set, but avoid the bargain brands. Look to spend at least $7 each for basic pliers, and at least $12 for a good pair of locking pliers. -An adjustable wrench (aka thumb-wrench). Pick a smaller-sized model for your toolbox. Most of the nuts and bolts in the house will be small anyway. Go for something that opens up to 1" or 1 1/2" Brand isn't an issue, but make sure it operates smoothly and won't jam or work loose. Spend less than $10. -Scissors. A usable, general purpose pair of scissors can be found at the dollar stores or in an office supply store. Make sure they open and close smoothly and that the blades don't wiggle. Look for one with a metal screw at the pivot so you can tighten it if it works loose. If you're using it routinely for cutting fabric or any other specific task, spend some extra money and get the right kind for the job or at least a good pair of general purpose ones. Less than $5 for cheap ones, $20+ for quality ones.-Sewing notions; A pack of needles, a roll of white thread, a roll of black thread, and a roll of transparent thread, a few safety pins and any spare buttons you find. That should get you through any wardrobe fixes you may need. Each item in the kit should be a dollar or less, and you can save money by starting with a pre-made kit from a dollar store and adding a few of your own extras. Also highly recommended is this, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1352 , but keep in mind it is cheap for a reason and needs constant attention.-A soldering iron if it's allowed in your room, and only if you're working with or fixing electronics or jewelry. Get a scrap piece of plywood or something to use as a work surface. $15 for a basic 30w iron. Another $10 for a safer stand.-A toolbox that holds everything. I like the ones that double as a step-stool, which you can find for $20-$30 if you look hard enough (mastercraft and rubbermaid brands). You might like something different, but small plastic toolboxes and even small plain steel ones are all quite cheap so go look and see what you like. You can even use your imagination and just use a plastic tote, a tacklebox, a backpack/messenger bag, shoebox, etc. Just pack your tools in it neatly and avoid putting the heavy or sharp ones on top of the ones that might break.-A plunger. If your dorm room has a bathroom, this is a must even if you never have to use it. It's an insurance policy against one hell of a mess. $10-$15.Anyway, that's all I can think of for tools. Craftier folks need more gear, and less DIY-prone folks need less. Use your best judgment and buy only what you can afford and might actually use. Pick up a few fasteners and adhesives too, usually as needed. Here's what you should probably keep on hand.-A package of assorted picture-hangers and hooks (if hanging pictures is allowed in your dorm). Buy a pack at the dollar store. A few extra finishing nails and small screws would be a good addition to this as well.-Thumbtacks. Buy a pack at the dollar store or office supply store.-Scotch tape, packing tape, duct tape (or Gorilla tape).-Twist ties. Get a bunch from a pack of trash bags.-A package of superglue. Rather than one large tube, get the pack with several tiny tubes so you don't lose your entire supply when one dries up.-Craft wire. Use it wherever you might use a twist tie, but also can be bent into whatever shape you need to become a tool or a piece of art. Dollar stores carry rolls of it often at 2/$1

Topic by DELETED_M4industries    |  last reply


Graffiti artists replicate The Matrix on Instructables.com--and win $15,000 Universal Laser Cutter!

Instructables and Universal Laser are happy to announce that the incredibly creative Instructable, How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) has won the Grand Prize in the 2008 Instructables.com and Universal Laser Cutter Contest: a 40-watt VersaLaser laser cutter valued at over $15,000!Grand Prize Winner How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) How to Enter the Ghetto Matrix (DIY Bullet Time) provides an extremely detailed Instructables tutorial on how to build a cheap, portable special-effects rig to create "bullet-time" animations--a technique, popularized in The Matrix movies, where the audience's point-of-view moves around the scene at normal speed while the action on screen is slowed down."We want to inspire great ideas and provide skills, tools, and shared know-how," Instructables CEO Eric Wilhelm explained. "This project represents exactly what we're trying to achieve with Instructables."The DIY Bullet Time Instructable was created and documented by the Graffiti Research Lab, an open-source urban art and communication collective supported by the Free Art & Technology Lab, a Brooklyn-based non-profit research lab creating work at the intersection of popular culture and the public domain."This will be the cornerstone of our new lab space," said GRL member fi5e. "A whole crew of creative people are really excited to put this thing to use! Thanks for helping us bring the VersaLaser to Brooklyn."The winner was chosen by votes from Instructables users and our panel of expert judges, who reviewed the 14 finalists drawn from a pool of over 600 entries. Congratulations to fi5e and everyone at the GRL - we know you'll really put the VersaLaser to work, and can't wait to see what great things you make! First Prize(in alphabetical order) Autonomous Foosball Table Blu-Ray Laser Phaser! Build a Greenland Kayak Build a Wind Harp! Build yourself a portable home - a mongolian yurt Extreme Business Cards Giant Fresnel Lens Deathray How I built a carbon bike frame at home (and a bamboo frame too) How to Make a TRON Style Lamp: The MADYLIGHT How to build a sit down driving arcade cabinet Laser cutter, start slicing stuff for under 50 dollars Laser Image Projector The Spiral Data Tato -- A Curiously Complex Origami CD Case Second Prize The authors of these Instructables win a robot t-shirt and a laser-etched plaque. Listed in alphabetical order. 30 minute USB microscope The Ambience Enhancer Autonomous, Wirelessly Controlled Hovercraft Conductive Glue And Conductive Thread: Make an LED Display and Fabric Circuit That Rolls Up. Cool Wave Ring Dollar Store Parabolic Mic Handcut inlay A Home Power Plant - Wind Power Generator Revised How to Make a Color-Changing Lighted Faux Fur Scarf How to make a pair of Angel Wings How to Make an OAWR (Obstacle Avoiding Walking Robot) Make DIY Vanilla Extract "Quicksilver" Retro-Future Scooter from appliances and scrap metal Solid Wood Digital Clock The Stirling Engine, absorb energy from candles, coffee, and more! Squishy Breast Stress Relief Toy TiggerBot II Robot Tube Amp Rebuild (and Mod) U-Disp - The Digg (tm) display (Open Source)Wooden Gear Clock Expert JudgesTo help us judge, we assembled an amazing team of expert designers, engineers, hackers, journalists, scientists, technologists, and other really smart people. They spent hours examining each of the finalists Instructables and helping us make a decision. We'd like to send a huge "Thank You" to each of our incredible judges. We couldn't have done it without you.Violet Blue (author, blogger, podcaster, columnist, and SRL vet)Gareth Branwyn (Contributing Editor, MAKE Magazine)Zoz Brooks (Host, of the upcoming TV Show Prototype This)Joe Brown (Editor, Wired Magazine)Colin Bulthaup (CTO of Potenco, co-founder Squid Labs) David Calkins (Co-founder of RoboGames) Julia Cosgrove (Deputy Editor, ReadyMade Magazine)Chris Csikszentmihalyi (Professor at the MIT Media Lab, Computing Culture Group)Simone Davalos (Co-founder of RoboGames) Lenore Edman (Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories)Dan Goldwater (Founder of monkeylectric, co-founder Squid Labs)Saul Griffith (President of Makani Power, co-founder Squid Labs, MacArthur Fellow)Duncan Haberly (Instructables)Matthew Hancher (NASA Researcher in the Intelligent Systems Division)Brian Lam (Editor, Gizmodo)Ed Lewis (Instructables)Jeffrey McGrew (Designer, Because We Can)Chuck Messer (Tackle Design, The Open Prosthetics Project, host of Discovery's Smash Lab)Megan Miller (Editor, PopSci)Jim Newton (Founder of TechShop)Quinn Norton (Journalist)Windell Oskay (Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories)David Pescovitz (BoingBoing, Institute for the Future, MAKE Magazine)Cloude Porteus (Instructables)Randy Sarafan (Instructables, Eyebeam Resident)Peter Semmelhack (Founder of Buglabs)Tyghe Trimble (News Editor, Discover Magazine)Noah Weinstein (Instructables)Eric Wilhelm (CEO of Instructables, co-founder Squid Labs)Dan Woods (Associate Publisher, MAKE Magazine) For the full information on how the winners were chosen, click here.

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply


How to get data from a load sensor through bluetooth module on an Android App/Arduino?

I am creating a mobile android application which gets data from a load sensor connected to HC-06 Bluetooth module and sends the data to a mobile application. The mobile app has two activities one for listing the bluetooth devices available and the other is the main activity to get data from the load sensor. I have managed to connect/pair with the Bluetooth module but I am unable to get data from it. The main activity consists of a button 'btnScan' that will get the data, and a text field to display the data. Can someone please help?  Here is the MainActivity File package com.uniproj.senseplate; import java.io.IOException; import java.io.InputStream; import java.io.OutputStream; import java.util.UUID; import android.app.Activity; import android.bluetooth.BluetoothAdapter; import android.bluetooth.BluetoothDevice; import android.bluetooth.BluetoothSocket; import android.content.Intent; import android.os.Bundle; import android.os.Handler; import android.view.View; import android.view.View.OnClickListener; import android.widget.Button; import android.widget.TextView; import android.widget.Toast;   public class MainActivity extends Activity {       Button btnscan;   TextView txtArduino, txtString, txtStringLength, calorie;   Handler bluetoothIn;   final int handlerState = 0;             //used to identify handler message   private BluetoothAdapter btAdapter = null;   private BluetoothSocket btSocket; //= null;   private StringBuilder recDataString = new StringBuilder();      private ConnectedThread mConnectedThread;       // SPP UUID service - this should work for most devices   private static final UUID BTMODULEUUID = UUID.fromString("00001101-0000-1000-8000-00805F9B34FB");     // String for MAC address   private static String address; @Override   public void onCreate(Bundle savedInstanceState) {     super.onCreate(savedInstanceState);       setContentView(R.layout.activity_main);       //Link the buttons and textViews to respective views                    btnscan = (Button) findViewById(R.id.scanBtn);                 txtString = (TextView) findViewById(R.id.txtString);     txtStringLength = (TextView) findViewById(R.id.testView1);       calorie = (TextView) findViewById(R.id.sensorView1);     bluetoothIn = new Handler() {         public void handleMessage(android.os.Message msg) {             if (msg.what == handlerState) {          //if message is what we want              String readMessage = (String) msg.obj;                                                                // msg.arg1 = bytes from connect thread                 recDataString.append(readMessage);              //keep appending to string until ~                 int endOfLineIndex = recDataString.indexOf("~");                    // determine the end-of-line                 if (endOfLineIndex > 0) {                                           // make sure there data before ~                     String dataInPrint = recDataString.substring(0, endOfLineIndex);    // extract string                     txtString.setText("Data Received = " + dataInPrint);                                 int dataLength = dataInPrint.length();       //get length of data received                     txtStringLength.setText("String Length = " + String.valueOf(dataLength));                                         if (recDataString.charAt(0) == '#')        //if it starts with # we know it is what we are looking for                     {                      //get sensor value from string between indices 1-5                      String weight = recDataString.substring(1, 5);                      //update the textviews with sensor values                      calorie.setText(weight + "kg");                            }                     recDataString.delete(0, recDataString.length());      //clear all string data                    // strIncom =" ";                     dataInPrint = " ";                 }                        }         }     };           btAdapter = BluetoothAdapter.getDefaultAdapter();       // get Bluetooth adapter     checkBTState();        // Set up onClick listeners for button to scan for data     btnscan.setOnClickListener(new OnClickListener() {       public void onClick(View v) {         mConnectedThread.read("1");       }     }); }   private BluetoothSocket createBluetoothSocket(BluetoothDevice device) throws IOException {             return  device.createRfcommSocketToServiceRecord(BTMODULEUUID);       //creates secure outgoing connecetion with BT device using UUID   }       @Override   public void onResume() {     super.onResume();         //Get MAC address from DeviceListActivity via intent     Intent intent = getIntent();         //Get the MAC address from the DeviceListActivty via EXTRA     address = intent.getStringExtra(DeviceListActivity.EXTRA_DEVICE_ADDRESS);     //create device and set the MAC address     BluetoothDevice device = btAdapter.getRemoteDevice(address);          try {         btSocket = createBluetoothSocket(device);     } catch (IOException e) {      Toast.makeText(getBaseContext(), "Socket creation failed", Toast.LENGTH_LONG).show();     }      // Establish the Bluetooth socket connection.     try     {       btSocket.connect();     } catch (IOException e) {       try       {         btSocket.close();       } catch (IOException e2)       {      //insert code to deal with this       }     }     mConnectedThread = new ConnectedThread(btSocket);     mConnectedThread.start();         //I send a character when resuming.beginning transmission to check device is connected     //If it is not an exception will be thrown in the write method and finish() will be called     //mConnectedThread.write("x");   }     @Override   public void onPause()   {     super.onPause();     try     {     //Don't leave Bluetooth sockets open when leaving activity       btSocket.close();     } catch (IOException e2) {      //insert code to deal with this     }   } //Checks that the Android device Bluetooth is available and prompts to be turned on if off   private void checkBTState() {     if(btAdapter==null) {      Toast.makeText(getBaseContext(), "Device does not support bluetooth", Toast.LENGTH_LONG).show();     } else {       if (btAdapter.isEnabled()) {       } else {         Intent enableBtIntent = new Intent(BluetoothAdapter.ACTION_REQUEST_ENABLE);         startActivityForResult(enableBtIntent, 1);       }     }   }     //create new class for connect thread   private class ConnectedThread extends Thread {         private final InputStream mmInStream;         @SuppressWarnings("unused")   private final OutputStream mmOutStream;               //creation of the connect thread         public ConnectedThread(BluetoothSocket socket) {          btSocket = socket;             InputStream tmpIn = null;             OutputStream tmpOut = null;             try {              //Create I/O streams for connection                 tmpIn = socket.getInputStream();                 tmpOut = socket.getOutputStream();             } catch (IOException e) { }                   mmInStream = tmpIn;             mmOutStream = tmpOut;         }                 public void run() {             byte[] buffer = new byte[1024];              int bytes;             // Keep looping to listen for received messages             while (true) {                 try {                     bytes = mmInStream.read(buffer);                     bluetoothIn.obtainMessage(handlerState, bytes, -1, buffer).sendToTarget();                 } catch (IOException e) {                     break;                 }             }         }                 //write method         public void read(String input) {             byte[] bytes = input.getBytes();//converts entered String into bytes             try {                 mmInStream.read(bytes);//write bytes over BT connection via outstream             } catch (IOException e) {               //if you cannot write, close the application              Toast.makeText(getBaseContext(), "Connection Failed", Toast.LENGTH_LONG).show();              finish();                            }          }      } } Here is the Arduino file #include int led = 13; int button = 12; LiquidCrystal lcd(9, 8, 4, 5, 6, 7); // Pins used for inputs and outputs******************************************************** float sensorValue1; float containerValue; char inbyte = 0; int flag; const int numReadings = 50; int readings[numReadings]; int index = 0; int total = 0; int average = 0; //******************************************************************************************* void setup() {     pinMode(led, OUTPUT);   digitalWrite(led, HIGH);   Serial.begin(9600);     for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++)   {       readings[thisReading] = 0;   }     lcd.begin(16, 2); //change to 16, 2 for smaller 16x2 screens   lcd.clear();   lcd.print("hello, world!");   delay (1000);   lcd.clear();   delay (500); } void loop() {   digitalWrite(led, HIGH);   readSensor2();    //DONE       printLCD();       //DONE   return; sendAndroidValues();   //when serial values have been received this will be true   if (Serial.available() > 0)   {     inbyte = Serial.read();     if (inbyte == '0')     {       //LED off       digitalWrite(led, LOW);     }     if (inbyte == '1')     {       //LED on       digitalWrite(led, HIGH);     }   }     //delay by 2s. Meaning we will be sent values every 2s approx   //also means that it can take up to 2 seconds to change LED state   delay(2000); void readSensor2() {   total = total - readings[index];     readings[index] = analogRead(A0);     total = total + readings[index];     index = index + 1;     if (index >= numReadings)   {      index = 0;   }     average = total / numReadings;        //sensorValue1 = (analogRead(A0) - 330)* i;    //delay(200);         Serial.println(average);    delay(100);          if( digitalRead(button) == HIGH && flag == 1)   {     flag = 0;     containerValue = 0;      }   else if (digitalRead(button) == HIGH && flag != 1) {   flag = 1;                        //when the button is pressed the initially sesnsor     containerValue = sensorValue1;      delay(10);   }     //Serial.println(digitalRead(button));    delay (1000);    } //sends the values from the sensor over serial to BT module void sendAndroidValues() {   //puts # before the values so our app knows what to do with the data Serial.print('#');   //for loop cycles through 4 sensors and sends values via serial   Serial.print(sensorValue1);   Serial.print('+');     //technically not needed but I prefer to break up data values     //so they are easier to see when debugging Serial.print('~'); //used as an end of transmission character - used in app for string length Serial.println(); delay(5000);        //added a delay to eliminate missed transmissions } void printLCD() {   lcd.setCursor(4, 0);   lcd.print("   GRAMS    ");   lcd.setCursor(4, 1);   lcd.print(sensorValue1); }

Question by AyoS1    |  last reply


Caring for a toad with a broken and infected arm? Answered

Last weekend I found a toad with his arm trapped in a mousetrap.  I don't know exactly how long he was there, but I discovered him when I heard this shuffling sound from the back of my garage and heard flies buzzing.  Upon investigating, I found poor Toady.  The flies had already laid eggs on his wound.  He was trying to hop away attached to the trap.   His arm is clearly broken.  He didn't have significant blood loss, but when I first opened the trap his tiny bones were visible at the injury site. I put Toady in a small bucket lined with moss and vegetation, along with adding a little bit of water, and covered the bucket with a dishtowel.  I used cotton swabs dipped in saline to clean the wound and applied antibiotic ointment (Neosporin without painkiller).  I also tied a thread slightly above the injury site to act as a tourniquet and prevent further infection, and possibly allow for his limb to naturally come off. Below the injury site is swollen, discolored and infected, growing a fuzzy fungus.  I've been checking on Toady every other day (I wasn't wanting to stress him out too much with frequent visits), cleaning his wound and infection and applying antibiotic ointment.  His arm is clearly dead weight and can't be salvaged.   I've put various bugs, slugs/snails and worms in there with him but I haven't seen him eat.  I put a june bug in there, and the june bug ended up trying to climb onto him but Toady seemed to try and squash the bug with his chest and then hopped over the bug to the other side.  Maybe the beetle is too big for him.  I haven't checked to see if the other goodies I gave him are just hiding under the moss. He doesn't appear to be losing or gaining weight.  He gets stressed whenever I visit, breathing rapidly and either trying to make himself look larger or do the opposite and huddle down, despite how careful and gentle I try and be around him. I'm worried about predators and infection if I were to release him now.  What should I do/not do?  I think I'll try Craigslist here to see if there happens to be an experienced amphibian owner with the proper supplies to care for him.  I doubt any vet here would be able to do anything, and I don't have the money to do so. Is this toad a male?  I thought he was based on his size since he's on the small size, but perhaps it's a youngster?  He doesn't make any noises with me, but I'm not sure if it was him chirping in his bucket or a nearby toad.  I know there's several right in the immediate vicinity.

Question by Pompom    |  last reply


Assistance with BD-P1600 Repair?

Has anyone ever attempted to fix a Samsung BD-P1600 Blu-Ray player after a bad firmware update? I'm like 90% of the way there. I've already been able to get it to boot after flashing it with the European XEF version of the software, but I cannot use most of the streaming features that originally came with the player, a side effect of the European software, and it has the wrong region. All I need now is the rootfs.bin file from and American, XAA, version of the software. If anyone has done this fix themselves than they would likely have this file somewhere if it hasn't already been deleted. I know its a long shot, but you never know. Also, as a general point of information, the firmware from the Samsung website is encrypted, so it's no help. Links to sites describing the repair process: http://www.avforums.com/threads/damaged-samsung-bd-p1620-after-firmware-upgrade.1218447/ http://www.avforums.com/threads/hacking-samsung-bd-p1620a-bd-p3600.1245419/ Edit: So I've discovered something which someone might be able to help me with even if they don't have the files. When it was first bricked and I cracked it open to try and repair it, I did a flash dump from the cfe into a file on my tftp server. More recently I copied partition 10 from the kernel to a flash drive, which supposedly is all the other partitions together, including the rootfs. When I compared this file to the flash dump from a year prior, the beginning part appeared exactly the same, so I though that by looking at the section in the copy of the partition that represents the rootfs, I could make a copy from the corresponding section in the flash dump and flash that as the rootfs. Sufficed to say, it didn't work, but just today I repeated the flash dump and found that it too is different than partition 10. It appears that beyond the first section of the file the flash dump has a completely different structure. When I compared the two sections in both flash dumps, they appeared very similar but has small differences in one section, which I would expect is a result of reflashing the rootfs. So now my question is is there a way to use the flash dump to repair the player? Edit: Additional question, I was wondering if I would be able to use the cfe to directly rewrite the section of the flash that is different. Fortunately, the cfe section of the flash appears to remain identical in all versions of the flash file I have, so I wont be rewriting that part, hopefully preventing it from being completely unbootable should something not work. My problem is that I am having problems figuring out how to reflash the nand from the cfe. I'm using the command: flash -offset=20000000 192.168.2.104:bh I keep getting the error: flash0: Device not found *** command status = -6 I think this is because the command did not specify a flash area to write to, so I did show devices and got:          uart0  16550 DUART at 0xB0400B00 channel 0          flash0.cfe  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 00000000 size 1536KB       flash0.kernel  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 00180000 size 5120KB       flash0.rootfs  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 00680000 size 40960KB        flash0.pstor  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 02E80000 size 8176KB       flash0.splash  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 0367C000 size 1280KB    flash0.drmregion  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 037BC000 size 128KB       flash0.rawnvr  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 037DC000 size 768KB       flash0.macadr  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 0389C000 size 16KB        flash0.nvram  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 038A0000 size 128KB         flash0.swap  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 038C0000 size 6400KB          flash0.bbt  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 03F00000 size 1024KB          flash1.all  New NAND flash at 00000000 offset 00000000 size 65536KB                eth0  BCM7038 Internal Ethernet at 0xB0080000 I'm not sure which one to choose. When I dumped the flash I used the command: CFE>save 192.168.x.y:flash_dump 0x1fc00000 0x4000000 The definition of the save command is: save Save a region of memory to a remote file via TFTP   Any idea which part of the flash this is dumping from / which part I should write to?

Question by danielemur  


Hydrophobic music, dubstep windchimes, Smash Smash Revolution and etc @ Knox Makers Build Night w/ MaKey MaKey!

Wow, what a month at Knox Makers! We were absolutely invaded by MaKey MaKeys at our hackerspace all throughout January. To start us off, we released a freebie project a little early to help out members and guests get some ideas, to drum up local support for our events, and to offer a fun + easy starter project for the other spaces participating: Oversized Music Chest This ended up getting featured in Electronics! It leaves a lot of room to add extra components and tote the MaKey MaKey around, and we turned ours into a musical advertisement for our first Build Night, a mystery hack night about music. Mystery Hack Night: Music! What a blast! Talk about a weird time.. One family brought a theremin and a circuit bending kit for kids; another group brought an amp and speakers, a suitcase of effect pedals and circuit bent instruments, and a 4 channel mixer; we had a random component table for open hacking; an acoustic and broken ukulele was converted into an electronic instrument; we had painters painting music instrument for the MaKey MaKey with conductive paint; there was a table with our hydrophobic drum pad, bananas, an eggplant, flowers, and a grappling hook all controlling a set of browser based drums through the MaKey MaKey; we had members hooking up tactile buttons and levers to MaKey MaKeys; and we closed with the weirdest jam session this side of Alpha Centauri with all the things playing all the sounds at the same time. Mystery Hack Night: Video Game Controllers! This was a fun night, and we had a few new people show up. We tinkered with a platformer adventure game called Fancy Pants Adventure, where we assigned each person one button. At one point, the whole table was controlling the game's protagonist. Somehow, we made it pretty far into the game, considering. A few people commented that this type of exercise seemed like a really useful team building exercise, so we might look at creating some tutorials with this in mind. We also had individuals and small groups testing out their own inventions and games, again revisiting concepts like conductive ink or simple conductive objects. A two person team tinkered around with some simple fighting games that only use one button for each player, there were people playing Tetris and other games with their inventions, and we again offered a random hack table with an assortment of items and components to rummage through. MaKey MaKey Build Night I: When MaKeys Attack.. We had a nice turnout for this event. This was an introduction to the basic concept behind MaKey MaKey, how to remap the beta v1.2 boards using the web remapper, different applications that make a MaKey MaKey naturally awesome to use, and a few sample projects. We opened up the floor to open hacking, and that day our Adafruit group buy had just come in. We were able to add to the random hack table some awesome components, such as: male/male and female/female jumper wires, various diffused LEDs, slow and fast cycling LEDs, conductive thread, flat LED panels, sewable LEDs, tactile buttons, and other items. We wrapped up and one of our newest members stayed late to craft a thin copper wire into a flat copper instrument using a mallet. He ended up using a breadboard with the MaKey MaKey and Wolfram software to write his own music program. As with our other Build Night events this month, we also had people working on side projects in the background which added to the creative energy of the room. For this event, one of our members tested out a Gocupi that managed to draw Rear Admiral Grace Hopper and Albert Einstein on the whiteboard in dry erase marker using continuous lines. MaKey MaKey Build Night II: Big Projects! We had a decent turnout for this event, but mostly the attendees were there for their own big projects unrelated to MaKey MaKey. We got a few MaKey MaKey projects in around good company, though. We had members working on a large geodesic Airolite boat, someone showed up to work on their 3D printer and print out their first scale model of a scanned person, our Facilities Director was able to get some critical inventory done, a couple members mounted new shelves that had been donated that day, and one member's daughter wanted to play around with hydrophobics. We also were able to get electronic musical wind chimes made that work very nicely with the MaKey MaKey, and the same member who tinkered with Wolfram software at the prior event made more progress on some of his own MaKey MaKey ideas. MaKey MaKey Build Night III: Advanced Reprogramming! This was one of the build nights I was most excited about, and we had a nice turnout. We walked members through reprogramming the older MaKey MaKeys using the MaKey MaKey sketch for Arduino IDE. We bested Windows and its infernal resistance to unsigned 3rd party drivers, and we advanced onward. We looked at basic reprogramming of the settings.h key bindings, and we also looked at other Arduino programming such as delay, Keyboard.print, Keyboard.press, Keyboard.release, and some other concepts. A father team duo that are also involved in a local high school robotics club showed up and schooled us a little on Arduino with some tricks they had up their sleeves, another father son duo showed up to experience the MaKey MaKey for the first time together and it seemed to blow their minds, and we talked about the new web remapping tool for the beta v1.2 boards. Mad Science Bingo For one of our educational outreach events, we attended hijacked bingo night at a local senior citizen community center. We let everyone have their bingo fun without interruption, but as bingo concluded we invaded with a MaKey MaKey, our hydrophobic drum pad, fruits and veggies, and some flowers. The senior citizens loved it and have invited us back. At one point, we had three participants record themselves singing into a Scratch program that we mapped to the flowers. The room erupted with laughter when the community center manager went to touch the flowers and they sang at her in her patrons' voices. She even lent her voice to be recorded, which sent the room into mad howls. We also made a chain of about dozen people between ground and the triggers. We didn't really invent anything unique here, but it was a fun bonus event for the community center patrons. We ended up tinkering around a little with hydrophobics and electronics. So far after all our events, we ended up with a few more Build Night projects: Hydrophobic Drum Pad (featured in Science and then Homepaged!) annoy friends with this party game: Wonky Pong Smash Smash Revolution ... black acrylic, conductive paint, and conductive thread Electronic Windchimes sewable Cardboard Feet DDR (featured in Video Games!) We've also set out our MaKey MaKey kits for space use now that our January Build Nights are over with. We have a few members with projects they are still working on at the space, a few projects that are still being documented to upload to Instructables, and a few people batting around their own ideas. If we come up with anything else, we'll be sure and update. A couple "lessons learned" here: Random hack tables are awesome. But.. if they are too chaotic and without the right presentation, these can be intimidating to beginners that may want more direction. Multiple Build Nights rule! But.. it is probably best not to hijack every Saturday of a shared workspace like a hackerspace. This could have been orchestrated a little better (my fault). Overall, this was a blast to participate in. Thanks to Joylabz and Instructables! PS.. with two features and one homepage, that gave us 1 and a half years of Pro. One got used, but we're giving away the remaining year of Pro and 3 months of Pro. The bounty: quick connect projects for MaKey MaKey. Ends 3/1 EST. You know what to do..

Topic by smalltortoise  


My linear bearing on the 3D keep screaming despite oil and grease - fun fail!

Ok, you think you calibrated your printer properly and that all should be fine.You even printed an awful lot without any issues at all....Then you linear bearing start to get louder and louder....Just about an hour into a really big print, what to do??I aborted to prevent a failed print later on.Cleaned all the rods instead of just the one I though to be the culprit with alcohol.Used a nice sponge to apply a thin and fresh coat of oil.Double checked everything and even put a bit of grease onto the z-axis threaded rod for good measure.All well, all fine, so start h print again...Just 52 minutes into the print and the squeeking started again.Must be related to the height then and I aborted again.I mean, who cares about having wasted a few meters of filament if the remaining 50 odd meters of the print won't be a waste...Took the assembly apart this round.Washed all bearings in alcohol and flushed them before drying in the vaccum chamber (was in a hurry...).Used proper grease to fill the bearings again and lubed all rods, including the z-axis parts.After wasting these three hours I though I could let it just print over night...All movements sounded fine, almost silent to before, so what could go wrong...Print started fine after the bed calibration so I let it run and went to bed.According to my printers display I woke 70 minutes later to literally screaming bearings.Almost like somone running fingernails over a chalk board!But the print seemed to go really fine so I decided to use ear plugs and let it run.Couldn't really sleep and woke up about two hours later - to a silent printer still printing fine....Next day my print came out just fine but I still needed the matching counterpart.And with that one the screaming started already 20 minutes into the print - it got worse!!!With nothing left it must be the extruder then.... :(Aborted the print, took the entire extruder apart and cleaned all.Still, the next round it started screaming at me again...Tried the other extruder with the ABS instead of PLA - no noise at all and the part came out fine but useless as I needed it in PLA.Do you know how much time you can wast cleaning lubricating your 3D printer for no good reason at all?If you can then add another 2 hours for cleaning the extruder again even adding silicone oil where moving plastic parts meet - even if it just for the pressure spring...Needless to say it did not silence the PLA print....But I figured it out in the end!To no surprise the next PLA part printed with no noise at all.And like a switch turns your lights on and illuminates a room, my brain suddenly got a lightbulb moment I was hit with the light of pure realisation!Note to self:If you print conical holes and require cooling for your nozzle then bloddy realise that the cooling fan and your holes act like a simple whistle!Try it out one day and print some hollow cones with the thinner opening facing up ;)There should be a way to create some musical notes this way as well but maybe you have the patience to match the cones properly and write some g-code to move the head over the cones to create a tune....

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Switch To Battery Power When Mains Power Is Lost ?

Go-to-War Gear--such catchy hypothetical stuff writes well, but it can turn real all too fast. I have acquaintances in Houston who had less than an hour to leave their homes before the floodwaters overtook them. They had just enough time to throw their important papers into the dishwasher (a handy dry spot for important stuff in a flood), grab their kids, and head for high ground. The recent CaliforniaThe Hunting Shack offers both .45 Colt and .45 Schofield loads (left). Ramshorn gripped STI Texican and Texas Longhorn Arms No. 5 were used for testing both the .45 Colt and the shorter .45 Schofield ammunition. wildfires typically covered 100 meters in 3 seconds. Do you really have what you need to grab and go? Even in America, you can go from full stop to life-threatening crisis in moments.A Proper Foundation: You can measure a man by his boots. I burned through several sets during my time in uniform. My favorite pair of combat boots is more comfortable than house slippers. Combat-proven features make them rugged. Speed laces keep them fast.I wear boots every time I fly. The speed laces let me get into and out of them easily for the obligatory TSA assessment. Keeping the best insoles for standing all day maintained and the drainage vents clear ensure they're comfortable.Air travel is not as much fun as it was once, but an airplane cabin is comfortable enough. Now imagine that same space upside down, dark, and populated with jagged metal, screaming hysterical passengers, fire, and worse. Never remove your footwear in an airplane.Whether the threat is a wildfire, hurricane, tornado, or civil unrest, you will always need proper footwear. Keep your favorite pair of broken-in boots right next to your bugout bag. Think it through and have something similar for each member of your family. Anything built on a faulty foundation can ultimately fail. If you have to move in a hurry that foundation is a good pair of boots.A Proper Bag: A Bugout Bag is pretty stupid without a decent bag. I have a nice utility pack I picked up at our local Walmart for next to nothing. It is lightweight and serviceable enough. However, mygo-to-warbag is a Brazos concealed carry pack from Flying Circle Gear. It's the best I've ever seen.For starters, everything about the Brazos bag is just a little bit heavier than everybody else's. The stitching is more rugged, the material is more substantial, and the zippers are of the big beefy sort. Additionally, the bag is exceptionally well imagined.There are two spacious center compartments large enough to manage a laptop. A small top pocket packs your wallet and incidentals and includes a hidden ID card holder. There is an integral hydration pouch along with four zippered pouches on the sides and a larger version on the front.The outside of the bag is festooned with MOLLE webbing. Thread a pair of ammo pouches in place for your shades or spare reading glasses. They can even carry ammo in a pinch. I can and have lived out of mine for extended periods while travelling, camping, or hiking.The handiest feature on my Brazos bag is the hidden "pass-through" pocket on the back. This discreet compartment is zipper-accessible from either side and is the perfect size to manage a decent gun. Open both sides and you can slide the pack over the handle of a rolling suitcase. Drop in a soft body armor panel and wear the pack backwards and you have an improvised tactical vest.

Question by kingandsoraka    |  last reply


Bug, Suggestion, Feedback! Community sections

Since there is no place for it right now I just created a topic for the purpose of collecting bugs we find.Let me start with a little list I collected so far:1. Confusion!When I create a new topic I need to select a category and channel.So where exactly are these categories and channels?Somehow I struggle to find them anywhere else than in the two drop down menus when creating a new topic.If we have all those drop down options then why can't we make proper use of them?2. List problems!I know there is planned work on the way we see the cummunity section but still...When I create a new topic then it seems to be nowhere.I check again a few hours later and still nowhere.Next day often the same storey.Where does a new topic go and when does it appear in the community section?3. Sorting - this one is already being worked on I guess.We really need a working option to sort postings and replies by time and date and relation.I get notified about a reply and check...Hmm, about 80 replies and somehwere, someone wrote something new...Good if you can copy and past a part of the preview to search for it in the browser manually...Comfort and logic is needed to replace the current confusion and inconsistences.As for suggestions to get the section up to what what both developers and users turn into happy campers:1. Editing options!!!For years this is my number one that not just got more and more ignored but also reduced to nothing.Anyone creating a topic should have direct control over it.This means beain able to create the post in a way the poster sees fit for the purpose.The basic text editing options any Vbulletin or PhPBB board would offer should be available here in a similar way.Embedded text and images in the size and place that fits - either by posters choice for the size on the screen or by providing a fixed sized preview that opens a fullsie view when clicking on it.Code is more important these days than back then when I first asked for option to embed it here.Tags are useful for a lot of things.Add a quote from a previous post or reply, add a code window that allows proper copy and past action for both poster and reader (preferably with highlighted syntax like in Notepadd++, ....You can only provide dedicated help if you have the right tools for it.And you can not ask for dedicated help if you can even properly post the problem due to restrictions and limitations in the editing system.Coloered text, other than for code is not really required but all the basics anyone knows froma real forum would be a great addition.2. Tagging or otherserwise highlighting the areas of the topic.If I already create a post in the technology section than it would only make sense to see a corresponding icon next to the topic in the community section.Same for coding help, mechanical problems and so on.The current sections and categories are outdated and a lot of things are missing.Mabye not in terms of Intructables but certainly for the community sections.3. Structure....Currently it is all one big blob and not even the sorting works (yet).This is perfect for people like me wanting to quickly check if something new was posted but not so good for someone trying to have some fun browsing.Imagine you want to spend some quality time checking what problems people have or what help they seek when it comes to woodworking.No search options, no list options, no categories to explore.Back in the day we had a few sections and a basic sorting option, like by most recent.Someone only interested in helping with coding on Arduino wouldn't even bother here and move on.On the other hand, people with no clue how to fully specify their problem might find a solution just by browsing through the corresponding section.4. Linking Instructables....I don't know the reason for it or the idea behind it but why again is the question section filled with Instructables?And why look lot of Tips like Instructables?I mean if it is for the user to find stuff than it might bind him on the website, but I doubt it will be satisfactory for the user.Questions or tips in regards to an Instrubale should be there- with the Instructable but not in the community section.Add it a tab for the Ible instead...I see little to no point in answering to a question someone has in regards to a specific Ible unless "I made it"....5. Voting and closing...When it comes to forums then one thing all have in common: bloat.People only register to post something but never come back.Topics are solved, done and dusted.Topics gone dormant for months or even years.Great answers or vital details get lost.The list goes on....What it comes down to is that order needs to be restored and maintained.Open an archive section and start moving out.Topics of certain age and with no new replies - gone.Topics where the user never again logged in - gone.Topics voted or request to be closed, closed or gone to the ariche as well.Topics voted to be of general interest pinned somewhere for easy reference - like this one ;)A thread starter got his answer and is happy? Then for crying out loud let him vote or credit the best answer and close the topic.More than three people voted or tagged a topic as useless, not possible or similar - close it so it can one day go in the archive section too.All this and more should create a community section that once again can become an active playground for everyone.A place to seek and find help.And who knows, maybe some of the good old guys might even consider a return and more time spent here....

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Let us assemble power distribution switches at home together.

I am an electronic engineer in the field of power distribution switches. In recent days, I am prepared to make a project for power distribution switches at home together.  The project begins now: Home decoration, the concern of hydropower indispensable. The laying of the home circuit is a crucial link, the home distribution box installation involves the safety of home appliances. Therefore, I specifically summarise the home distribution box installation knowledge, as well as home distribution box wiring diagram to make the relevant finishing, for everyone to take precautions, the home distribution box has a clear understanding. Home distribution switch installation points 1, Household distribution switch sub-metal shell and plastic shell two, there are two kinds of mounted and concealed, the box must be intact. 2, The household distribution switch of the cabinet wiring assembly should be set up to zero line, to protect the ground wire, phase line, and to be intact, with good insulation. 3, The installation of air switch seat should be clean and there is enough space, should be installed in the dry, ventilated parts, and no obstruction, easy to use. Never install the distribution box in the box to prevent fire. 4, The household distribution switch should not be installed too high, the general installation of the elevation of 1.8 meters, in order to operate; into the distribution switch of the electric tube must be fixed with a lock nut. 5, If the household distribution switch to be open, the edge of the hole to be smooth, smooth, distribution box buried in the wall should be vertical, horizontal, edge left 5 to 6 mm gap, distribution box wiring Should be rules, neat, the terminal screws must be tightened. 6, The loop into the line must be sufficient length, no joints, after installation marked the name of the use of the circuit, the installation of household distribution box to be completed after the removal of the distribution box residue. How to assemble power distribution switches at home ? 1, The installation of electrical box, distribution box installed on the wall, should be used bolts (expansion bolts) fixed, bolt length is generally buried depth (75 ~ 150mm), the thickness of the box floor, nuts and washers Of the sum of the thickness, plus about 5mm of the "margin". For smaller distribution boxes, it is also possible to embed a good brick at the installation site (in the form of a distribution box or a panel mounting hole) and then use wood screws to secure the distribution box or power distribution board. 2, Dark assembly distribution box, distribution box embedded in the wall installation, in the wall when the hole should be reserved than the length and width of the distribution box about 20mm, the depth of the distribution of the thickness of the distribution box with the wall Plaster thickness. In the masonry distribution box, the box and the wall filled with concrete can be fixed to the box live 3, The distribution box should be installed firmly, horizontal and vertical, vertical deviation should not be greater than 3mm; concealed, the distribution box should be around the gap, the edge of the panel should be close to the wall, the box and the building, Part should be coated with anti-corrosion paint. 4, The distribution box installed in the spiral fuse, the power cord should be connected to the middle of the terminal contact, the load line should be connected to the threaded terminal. In this way, in the loading and unloading fuse will not be electric shock. Porcelain plug-in fuses should be mounted vertically. 5, The distribution box of AC, DC or different voltage levels of power, should have a clear sign. Lighting line, should be set to zero line (N line) and protect the zero line (PE line) bus, zero line and protection of the zero line should be connected to the bus, not twisted, should be numbered. 6, The wire leads to the panel, the panel line hole should be smooth without burrs, metal panels should be installed insulation protective cover. Metal shell distribution box shell must be reliable grounding (then zero). Ps: Excuse me if I was wrong in words or expressions as I am a green hand in the field of power distribution switches. I need continual learnings. What is your idea ? Do you agree with my ideas ? Any of your ideas would be highly appreciated. May someone would like to help ? thanks in advance.

Topic by maryzhu    |  last reply


masynmachien's time as an AIR

I had the honour and pleasure of spending the month of July 2013 as an Artist in Residence at Instructables HQ. An unforgettable experience! I feel like I cannot even begin to describe it, so forgive me for keeping it simple. The most tangible amazing thing is the unbelievable workshop, a true makers heaven! I mainly worked on the laser cutters and the 3D printers myself, but these are just a part of the new workshop set up at Pier 9. There’s also the experimental kitchen, the sowing corner, the electronics lab, the high-end CNC machines, a complete wood shop and a full blown metal shop. More importantly however was working among the people behind Instructables. To experience up close how they work very hard to make Instructables not only the biggest and best Show-and-Tell buy also the best “maker medium” ever. Having just moved to the new facilities at Pier 9, there was a lot of extra work to get the workshop accessible and operational, but they moved mountains to get us Artists in Residence onto the machines and making things. Working alongside three other Artists in Residence was also unique chance. Usually, when I’m surrounded by makers, most of them aren’t older than 12. But even as each of us had his inner kid very much alive, having some serious making going on around you is very inspiring (as some of my Instructables will show). I also very much appreciate how my daughter Tika was warmly received when see joined me at Instructables HQ. One month was far too short to spend with the people at Instructables HQ.  I was constantly torn between on the one hand getting to know the people better and on the other hand leaving them continue there hard work and trying to make as much things as possible myself. And to make it even harder there were the lures of the magnificent city of San Francisco and of the Bay Area. My conclusion is clear: I want to come back! But then, being a month away from home is not easy either. Tika joined me during the second half of my stay, which was great, but I missed my wife and youngest daughter. Back home in Belgium I’m first taking some rest, spending time with family and friends, working on some due home improvements and preparing some kids workshops. Writing up the Instructables on the projects I did will take some time. They will be published over the coming months. After all, I have about 15 new projects to document. The thread through my AIR was a laser cut (advent) calendar. A series of toy/gift assembly kits designed to be laser cut out of one acrylic sheet and to be wrapped into a cardboard package opening separately on each kit. The only parts added to the laser cut parts are some elastic bands, screws and nuts. The idea is to have a calendar that is easily made in several copies, with designs accommodating for thickness variations in the acrylic sheet and a concept of cutting and wrapping it all with little handwork. I managed to design, cut and test 13 different toys/gifts. I consider it the first chapter of a full advent calendar. I will make an Instructable on each of the 13 and put them in a collection, together with an Instructable on the calendar concept. The eye catcher of my stay was an iPhone/iPad (or Android) controlled RC Blimp with video feedback. For this I used the plug-and-play Dension WIRC system. This system leading to rather heavy build (200g) comparted to my other blimp projects, I decided upon using a large spherical balloon. From this (and from watching Doctor Who) sprung the idea to make it into a large eye. I named it ‘In the blimp of an eye”. The project that was the most of a learning experience was designing and 3D printing nested dolls. Deviating from the classic Russian dolls, I learned how to design these in 123D Design, how to calculate sizes and experienced the possibilities and limitations of different 3D printing techniques. I hope you will enjoy reading the resulting Instructables, just as I enjoyed doing these projects at Instructables HQ. I want to thank once more the people at Instructables and Autodesk for this wonderful opportunity. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Yvon Masyn aka masynmachien

Topic by masynmachien    |  last reply


electric shocker resistance and housing problem, i only have a week or two until the secret santa party

In an attempt to provide a rather "interesting" christmas present as a joke for a colleague i have assembled an remote controlled electronic shocker device ( perfectly safe almost no current at all) by wiring an electric shocker of a design i am familiar with making so that it's power is provided by wires which previously went to the motor of an RC car( i intend to do an instructable on how it was built, if i get it to work!). the arrangement is constructed from the charging circuit of a disposable camera with the capacitor chopped off and replaced by the electrodes that will connect to my receiver's( my colleague) hand,  the AA battery has been replaced with a remote controlled power supply ( same voltage and ampage as an AA battery)system. Enough on what i have built( unless you need more details to help me), here is my problem. I had originally intended to place the shocker in a small box and attach each output high voltage wire to a tin foil half wrapped over half of the box( i would cover the join with a ribbon) the plan was that when someone picked up the box their hand would form a connection across the tin foil halves and therefore their hand would be acting as a resistor in a high voltage circuit so a (very tiny less than 0.25 milliamps) current would pass through it( whether the voltage is applied across the two halves can be controlled by a remote hidden in my pocket so when other people pick up the parcel they get no shock). but i have found that ,although the output wires are at a high enough voltage to shock someone, the resistance of the tin foil means that the remaining voltage to go across the person's hand is not enough to shock them. ALSO the shocker will work across about a centimetre of skin ( like touching both wires with the tip of the same finger) but when the contact points are as far apart as a whole hand( like thumb to last finger) the increased resistance of the hand means that the current is so small that i cannot even feel a tingling when i test it( i had a few (willing volunteer)friends who are working on this with me also test but it could not shock them either). so my problem is that i must either find a much lower resistance form of contacts to coat the halves of the box( i have no means of using expensive materials or ones that need to be heavily worked on before attaching( like metal plates that must be attached to each face of the box)) or a ( very quick and simple, i only have about a half an hour slot of time to do any soldering before the party ) way to boost the voltage ( i was thinking of attaching extra batteries but suspect this would not work and also am unlikely to get an opportunity to do much electronic alteration) or ( most promisingly) must find a way to house some very bulky parts in a housing where i can guarantee that my colleague will touch both electrodes with one finger without suspecting anything until he gets shocked( this needs to be something like the switch on a torch rewired so that the electrodes are on the switch or whatever, or any other gift where the "obvious" thing to do is put a finger on a certain metal point for some reason( preferably when picking the present up)).  I have already addressed any safety concerns so please do not criticise me for this as electric shocks are harmless provided the current is low enough and does not cross the heart.( i have a very low current with both electrodes on the same hand on top of which it only shocks when i press a button on the remote). ALSO please do not suggest i rebuild the whole circuit as i know that the circuit works fine and i do not have time to build it all again or do any serious modifications, THANKS  any answers would be appreciated, THANKS i think i have found  solution,it is really awesome and involves placing a battery in parrallel with the power lead into the shocker from the remote control system. i am not sure why it is working but i suspect some effects similar to capacitors are involved, the really weird thing is it does not shock you when you grab the box but rather when you pull your hand away. incase i find any other problems this thread is still open to suggestions and ideas for other solutions, assuming the system works perfectly after i have soldered my modifications in place( a few days time before i get a chance to use a soldering iron) then i will no longer need any help( providing nothing else goes wrong). thanks for reading all of this.

Question by resistanceisfutileiflessthan1ohm    |  last reply