how to build a pergola?

I have a 14x14 slab of cement that is 3 to 4 inches deep. I would like to use 4x4 for posts not in the ground there will be a metal base. or use 6x6 for corner post. i will be building a pergola with 1x2 or 2x2 rafters.+++++++++++++ thanks to everyone with pics and options safety ones too. soo how about 6 4x4x8 with 2x10x12 rafters??

Question by sanchez05   |  last reply


Outdoor Decoration

I'm looking into building a fairly large sized outdoor Christmas decoration, possibly mechanized, and I'm wondering what materials may be good to use. I live in an area where snow is likely and rain is a definite possibility. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Topic by HOMEsplice   |  last reply


Outdoor Pool Table?

There are lots of used pool tables for sale for under $250. Any ideas for how to convert them for outdoor use? I'm thinking of just spraying the whole thing, except the felt, with a few coats of marine varnish. Then just keeping it covered. I live in the NW and of course it's mostly drizzly around here in the winter time. The big thing is keeping expansion and contraction to a minimum and sealing the wood. This doesn't have to be tournament grade, just something to entertain the kids for a few years.

Topic by geppetto425   |  last reply


Outdoor listening installations

Would appreciate some advice on this project.  I'm putting together a proposal for a series of outdoor sound installations in a nature park.  a couple of the installations will be places where you can plug in headphones to listen to certain sounds captured live from a microphone in an interesting place- for example a hydrophone in a pond.  The plan is that the mic will be hooked up to 3.5 jack sockets and listerners will be able to plug in their own headphones.  Now obviously there needs to be some amplification because the mic signal level will be far too quiet to hear on headphones. I need a power amp that will be powered through a solar panel.  My question is, shall I just use a headphone amp, like the Behringer ha400 or make my own power amp circuit? I need to be able to make everything sturdy and fit into a weather proof junction box to protect it from the elements. I have done some experiments with an LM386 power amp module but there was so much background noise and it didn't pick up the mic level at all (may have been a problem with the mic I was using,it was a crappy little lapel mic.- I did get a signal from a piezo disc but it was again really crackly and noisy.)  If it is best to build a circuit with a power amp module, could people make suggestions of ones that will sound good and clean, and work with stereo headphones.  Thanks a lot Ash

Topic by AshtonM4   |  last reply


Living Wall, anyone ever done one?

Has anyone ever done one of these? I'm looking for a cheap and green way to make one of these planters shown here: http://www.eltlivingwalls.com/photo_gallery.php I was thinking this could be done with an old hardware organizer and some pvc, but I don't think I'd be able to find any large enough to put any decent plants in. Any help would be awesome...Thanks,J

Topic by nkei0   |  last reply


help needed on how to make a rock retaining wall and sealed with concrete?

Well, my front yard is currently supported by piles of rocks where there is a ditch next to it, however only when there is heavy rainfall that the water passes through the ditch otherwise its empty.  The piles of rocks were placed one onto the other and these were never mortared and neither has a good base.  So, I have a huge amount of stones in my yard that I wanted to get rid of and also the quality of the soil where I live is very poor as it is like mortar when humid and blocks of soil when dry which I was thinking of using as backfilling. My question is how can I use the existing rocks to rebuild the retaining wall well, solid and also have a good look. By the way I live in Mauritius where the climate is humid and I live rather close to a mountain and river and the rocks are lava rocks meaning very hard. Please give me instructions on how to make everything from building the trench to finishing the wall and the tools that will be needed. thanks

Question by Chamburn   |  last reply


I want to modify an electric wheelchair to use tracks. It's for an obese family member who lives on a farm. Answered

I need to modify a bariatric powerchair with tracks.  I know the driveline will need to be modified as well as the electronics.  I realize there are chairs made like that (tankchair) but at 20 grand, it's out of reach.  Does anyone have any idea on how and where to begin?

Question by dtc989   |  last reply


New Instructables Categories and Channels are Live!

Our new categories and channels are now live!   Check out the previous forum topic for more information about why we made the changes, and how it will improve your experience on Instructables.  We now have five top-level categories, each with lots of new channels.  Here's a brief rundown of the new categories: • Living has all things related to crafting, decorating, cooking, parenting, and organizing. • Play has all things related to fun and games. • Workshop is everything one might do in a workshop or shed: home improvement, woodworking, and working on cars or bikes. • Technology and Outside are very similar to the existing Outdoors and Tech channels. Roam around the site and give the new categories and channels a test-drive. I bet the new scheme will make it easier to find neat old projects from our archives - with over 35,000 Instructables, there's bound to be something awesome you've missed! As always, we're learning as we go and expect to do some tweaking to get our categories and channels exactly right.    One of the things you can do to help is make sure we've sorted your Instructables to the right place - check out the end of this post to learn how to recategorize your Instructables! 

Topic by canida   |  last reply


i live in an apartment and want to compost but dont have outdoor space to do it any help?

I want to compost in apartment but how that is the question

Question by jaybob   |  last reply


All Season greenhouse?

I live in Northern, Ontario, Canada. We get only a few warm months through the summer and its fairly cold for the rest of the year, dropping down to about 40 below, Celsius!!  I have a vegetable garden in my backyard that does fairly well during the summer but I would like to be able to have fresh vegetables for my family year round. Is there any way I could build an outdoor greenhouse that I can use year round, without costing a fortune?  I also have a spare room on the upper level of my house that I could use but I don't want it to become too humid and rot my walls. Any ideas would help! Thanks!

Question by kmarrello   |  last reply


I just finished the inside of my how to build a cabin on a budget .

I just finished  and posted my how to finish the inside of a cabin on a budget instructable. Please take a peak and see how you like it .Thanks Jim

Topic by coolbeansbaby68   |  last reply


Can indoor Romex be used in conduit for outdoor use?

My friend is adding motion sensor lights outside at our house. He plans to install conduit in the garage, and use indoor 14/2 Romex, Type NM-B Indoor. He then will add the same outside to the security light fixture he is installing. Can indoor Romex in conduit be used for this? We live in the desert in Southern California, where temperatures can get over 120 degrees in the summer.

Question by    |  last reply


Koi Cam- outdoor webcam for submersion in pond?

I would love to try to build a webcam that I can submerge in my pond to transmit video of koi swimming in my pond.  My idea is to place a marker outside of my garden pond that someone can scan using Aurasma (augmented reality program for smartphones) and then show a live feed of an underwater camera of the fish swimming in the pond.  I thought about simply using a very cheap small usb camera, seal it in a clear waterproof case and run the wire outside the pond.  The problem is, I don't want to leave a computer (even a old one) outside running 24-7 to plug into and power source is a bit of an issue even though one outlet may be available.  I thought of  using a wireless or rechargeable webcam, but i don't want to have to pull it out of the pond constantly to recharge it and i don't think i can transmit far enough for my main computer's wifi to grab the video if it is underwater.  Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?  i am trying to do this super-cheap... so want to avoid any costly options...preferably less than $50.

Question by DarkRubyMoon   |  last reply


How to landscape a front yard?

I have a rectangular shaped yard that needs some shrubbery. I live in southern California and need something that will grow well in the sun, but is easy to maintain.

Question by    |  last reply


Outdoor water fountain...how to silence homemade pump

Hi Guys, I love this website. I've been living in Egypt and can't really do all the hobbies that I love. We recently moved and I have a little patio area. So I wanted to build a waterfall. It's 10 feet high and I didn't realize it would be such a futile task trying to find a water pump that will pump that high. So I decided to make one. I attached some images showing the centrifugal pump made from two plastic containers, a water bottle, plastic coat hanger, and construction adhesive that is driven by a drill. It works really well. It gets up to the twelve feet I currently have the hose running up to. But in order to do this, the drill has to be almost full speed which is obnoxiously loud.  I'm looking for some ideas on either how to silence the drill motor, or go a different route. I have to rebuild the shaft as I snapped the plastic rod (hanger) I was using, so I'm open to some rebuild ideas. Thanks so much for the input! I'll post a tutorial once I get a fully functional, stable, and practical prototype.

Topic by senica   |  last reply


Roof deck over synthetic membrane: water intrusion?

Oops, so I posted this in Outdoors before I found Home. Double posting is irritating but it's kind of relevant to both... I'm new to the forums here (long time reader, infrequent poster), if I just committed a major faux pas, gimme a heads up and I'll take one of these down! Anyway, so the back door of my 3rd floor apartment opens on to what amounts to a raised back yard; the only problem is that this "back yard" is the roof of a 2 story addition to the brownstone I live in, and I'd rather not put my foot through a very expensive roof. I've been looking into decking, and right now my plan is a contact-only solid frame all the way around the perimeter of the roof, with a lip extending over the edge of the roof (to supply stability without puncturing the membrane) connecting to the actual frame of the deck which would of course be placed over the top of the brick walls of the building. From there I was going to face the deck with synthetics, probably with struts placed along the horizontal struts of the roof connected to both the upper deck and sub-deck cross bracing (depending on what materials I use/can afford and their relative strength). My hope is to find a way to make the deck in modular pieces that can be removed for when the roof inevitably needs to be resurfaced. So basically it would be large squares (or irregular shapes, whatever) that would sit on top of the struts/cross bracing with the help of a few screws and provide the deck surface. What I'm worried about is water intrusion at the contact points, such as around the edge of the roof and on top of the studs in the middle of the roof. I know synthetics are much more resistant to this type of failure than older materials, but are they impervious? Where do the pros put contacts so water doesn't leak into the floor below? Even if you minimalize it, the deck will have to come into contact with the roof at some point, or you've found some fancy new way of building I'd love to hear about. A few other thoughts are footprint: the building is an 1890 Richmond row house, could this be done with a small enough profile to increase the value of the property without damaging the "drive by" value? (I was picturing an iron railing to keep the project semi period, and this roof actually connects to the big hulking wooden fire escape, so it wouldn't be marring a virgin landscape) Also, do you think any building codes in the country would allow L bracing and big old bolts to hold the structure of the deck together instead of end-nailing the boards? It would make removal for roof work a lot easier. For the corners, would it be better to miter the ends at 45 and run a bolt through the two of them, end nail an L joint or use a thick metal l bracket and a few bolts to hold the joint together? That was kind of an intense post, I'm just looking to shoot the breeze a little bit with anyone who has any thoughts. Everybody always has their perfect way of doing things, on such a big, high pressure job (if this goes south I'd be poor AND homeless!) I want to really chew on the idea a little bit first. Thanks to anyone who actually read this far!

Topic by Macadaciouse   |  last reply


Swings

Can anyone tell me why all of a sudden there are so many Instructables on swings? Just wondering. It's WAY too cold to even want to spend much time out of doors where I live...in northern Illinois, -5° this morning.

Topic by Quanah   |  last reply


what is a good, cheap wood to use for outdoor planter boxes?

I live in Silicon Valley, CA and want to build a set of four 4'x1 1/2' planter boxes in my backyard that will have chicken wire underneath them to keep out gophers. I want to build them relatively cheaply, so I know that redwood is not really an option. Also, they will be growing food, so that removes pressure treated wood from the mix. However, I would still like them to last a few years. What kind of wood should I use instead? Is there some kind of paint or finish that I can use to increase the lifespan of the boxes without adding anything nasty to the soil (and by extension, my food)? Thanks for any help anyone can give me in this matter!

Question by noctolater   |  last reply


Where, in the US, could a person get away with living in a large tent for free? Answered

I am looking for ideas (of ANY kind) on where in the U.S. I could live (FULL -TIME) in a decent size tent FOR FREE. Is there land that I can live on for free in my tent?? I would like to stay in areas where it doesnt get too cold year round, and doesn't snow at all....But that isn't "set in stone". I really would like to just get away from the crazy, busy city and all that comes with it...And I want to live as free as possible. And by "free", I mean I would like to live rent free outdoors. Once I am able to do that, I think I will feel more free as a human being. :) Thank you for any ideas or suggestions!! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~NEWLY ADDED TO THIS TOPIC FROM AUTHOR:~~~~~~~~~~~ I also posted this in reply to someone's message to me on this site...But I wanted to make sure everyone else read this too because it gives more info on what I am trying to do: This is just gonna sound crazy...But I have 2 cats that I will be bringing with me on the road. I refuse to leave them behind cuz they have been with me through a lot of things in my life, and they are like my kids now! lol! So I have to make sure they have a living space to run around in and get proper excersize (hence, why I am choosing to live in a large canvas tent that will be about the same size as my studio apt that I currently live in). I am choosing to live in a canvas tent because I believe that it will be the CHEAPEST, safest, sturdiest, large enough structure for me and the "kids" to live in for a while. I am also planning on buying a van to travel in for this adventure. I think it will be the easiest and CHEAPEST way to transport me, my cats, and the large canvas tent to where I want to go.                                            

Question by Findnfreedom   |  last reply


Where can I buy cheap land and legally live in a tent or yurt full-time?

I was wondering if anyone knew of a state or town in the US where I could buy a small, cheap piece of land and legally live in a tent or a yurt full-time? I really didnt even know where to begin looking for advice on this....So Im hoping some awesome person on this website will have ideas. These are the things I am more specifically looking for: I would like to move to an area that doesn't get much (if any) snow. I would like to buy no more then about 5 acres in the woods somewhere, and do NOT need utilities or buildings, and I would be fine living on logged land and possibly "problem land". The land would have to have access by road...And preferably no further then 30-40 minutes from a town. Oh, and I won't live in Florida. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, please let me know! Thank you!! Ryan

Question by Findnfreedom   |  last reply


How do you get rid of garbage in a home-made underground shelter?

I watched those WWII public service videos about bomb shelter living and they just put garbage in a bag and into a metal garbage can to be disposed of later, I guess? Isn't there a better way... like burn it or something.

Question by sandraindayton   |  last reply


Stock yagi anntenna repair?

I have a stock yagi wifi antenna,purchased online. An accicent broke the wifi adapter. Can I repair this using a USB wifi adapter? If so can someone please give me instructions. I live in a remote area and I miss my games.Thanks to all. P.S. This is an outdoor antenna,beam type.

Question by craftyomie 


Cabin photos from indie book release- Mobile shack/trailer/fort/camper made from trash

As promised, here's some photos of one of the newer JUNK CABINS I'm building.... AND...  http://relaxshax.wordpress.com/2010/01/    Its part of the indie book I just released on small houses/shacks... This cabin's nothing fancy, and stands at a mere 24 square feet, but it sleeps two (bunk-style), has a dutch style door (made from two recycled kitchen cabinet doors), and all in all is almost completely made from salvaged roadside/free materials- even most of the screws and nails. The paint (to make all the forklift pallet wood and scrap wood appear uniform) was unfortunately purchased (but after I sold some salvaged/found junk on craigslist). Also, The roof was originally made from mdf plywood/particle board from old stereo cabinets and tv armoirs (and an entire junked roll of roofing paper), but that proved too heavy for this wheeled/mobile cabin. In the endrun, I bit the bullet and bought some tuffex panels for roofing, which DOES give the interior some nice natural light- the only reason I decided to "cheat" with this route.      When finished, the cabin will have a mini-woodstove created from an old propane gas tank I nabbed at the dump (safety/workability pending), an outdoor kitchen/prep area attached to the cabin., and perhaps a small broken solar light kit I rewired and fixed. I'll also finish the wine-bottle window (not shown).    Anyway, thanks for looking!  Built to fit a trailer of mine, I'm eventually planning on hauling it up to my land in VT, where it can be used as lo-fi guest cabin or sorts, for those who always forget to bring tents.

Topic by Deek D   |  last reply


indoor bbq-er that fits on and uses my gas kitchen stove Answered

I live in an apt and am not allowed to use a bbq on my porch but have a natural gas stove in the kitchen. any instructable for making a bbq-er to fit on my kitchen stove? If it uses lava rock just like the outdoor gas bbq-ers it'll be great

Question by kriticalmas   |  last reply


Jak Pak

The worlds first jacket that combines a jacket with a sleeping bag and a tent.From the JakPAk site:(Jakpak) Active Engineering LLC proudly introduces the JakPak, the world's first all-in-one waterproof jacket, sleeping bag and tent. Created by Active Engineering to provide safety and comfort in an unpredictable world, JakPak is the only portable personal sleeping system on the market designed for outdoors and sports enthusiasts, as well as emergency preparedness.The patent pending JakPak design incorporates a waterproof sleeping bag, minimally-structured tent and insect netting into a comfortable jacket, creating an instant dry habitat that is ideal for outdoor sports enthusiasts, people living in areas prone to natural disaster, sports fans who will not be held back by a little rain, and anyone else in need of shelter.

Topic by Fengathor   |  last reply


Ultralight Portable Greenhouse

I have always wanted to grow a dwarf fruit tree or tropical tree (10-15 ft tall), but living in a townhouse I don't have room to winter a tree indoors. I was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this being done for a single tree? Kind of like a "tree phonebooth" for winter, potentially with a heater run from my outdoor electrical outlet. Any thoughts on where to start? If we can get a theory together I will build it and post it.

Topic by karlmarks   |  last reply


Painting a Lawnmower?

Hey guys, I have an older lawn mower that I want to paint the handlebars, wheel rims, and some plastic pieces blaze orange. It's a gift for my girlfriends little brother who's birthday is in a couple weeks. I was wondering what paint I should use for it? I don't have a lot of money to play with so that is definitely a factor. I have a home depot, lowes, value home, and sears near where I live. Thanks for any help!

Question by nurdee1   |  last reply


Off-Grid Stealth Cabin Plans

Hi everyone, I just entered my off-grid cabin design in the outdoors contest and I would like to invite you to view it, leave feedback and vote if you like the cabin and off-grid systems. I am a long time off-grid homesteader and I live in a 14x14 solar and wind powered cabin with many off-grid systems of my own design. My contest entry:   https://www.instructables.com/id/Off-Grid-Stealth-Cabin-Plans/ Thanks LaMar

Topic by LaMar Solarcabin   |  last reply


MAKERSPACE COMPETITION

We are hosting our first makerspace only competition! This is a great way to build up a collection of projects that can be submitted in a build night application. The competition is open to all project themes, but we are looking for feature worthy projects. Rules: The entry must be a featured step-by-step Instructable. See below for more information on what it means to be featured. You can submit an entry before it has been featured, but it must get featured by the time judging starts to be considered (I would recommend doing this!). All entries must be published between 11/11/2014 - 1/19/2015 Only makerspaces are allowed to enter - not individuals. Although, individuals can submit projects on behalf of a makerspace. A makerspace may submit as many Instructables as they like to the competition! If an Instructable has been submitted for a build night it cannot enter the competition. Featured Instructables: This featuring checklist explains everything we look for when we feature an Instructable. Please only pay attention to the step-by-step section. Here are some other resources for posting great Instructables: How to Use the New Editor How to Choose a Great Project Title Take Great Photos with an iPhone Basic Photo Editing Prizes: We have two categories of prizes: Living + Outdoor and Technology + Workshop. Check out the categories to know what section your project fits into. Living + Outdoor Grand: Sony Alpha a5000 Mirrorless Digital Camera First: Dremel 200 Runner Up: 5 Instructable Prize Packs (t-shirt + stickers) Technology + Workshop Grand: Sony Alpha a5000 Mirrorless Digital Camera First: Digital Storage Oscilloscope Runner Up: 5 Instructable Prize Pack (t-shirt + stickers) Dates: Submit projects between November 11 - January 19th using the form below. Winners will be announced on January 26th. SUBMIT ENTRY HERE

Topic by Carleyy   |  last reply


How can I make a cheap, basic video surveillance system?

I just moved into a two-story house with a lot of poorly-placed windows. I plan on spending most of my time upstairs (as both my bedroom and my workspace are upstairs), and even if I'm downstairs it's hard to see if someone's at the door. I was thinking that I could get a wireless camera set up outside my front door with a live video feed running on my computer, and possibly having it somehow visible downstairs as well. However, I have absolutely no idea how to do that, and other tutorials I've found only take photos, or require an extremely expensive camera. I don't need anything too secure, just a digital peep-hole, essentially. Any ideas and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. 

Question by Numbuh1Nerd   |  last reply


Fiberglassing inside a studio apartment?

First off, I want to preface I know the dangers of fiberglass fumes, and will not do anything too stupid: I'll only use it if it works and is safe. Anyways, I live in a studio apartment downtown, so outdoor space to do stuff like this is non-existent. On top of that, I don't have very many good friends in town, as most have moved away, so borrowing a hunk of lawn elsewhere is a bit of a pain. My question is: is there any sort of fume hood I could make/buy (that won't break bank) that would be big enough to work on a helmet in, and would be able to extract the working fumes, along with the drying fumes. Noise isn't a major issue, but the quieter, the better.  Alternatively, is anyone knows of any sort of trick place to work (like a back room in a hardware shop) I'm open to suggestions! Thanks in advance.

Question by DoctorWoo   |  last reply


Kitty TV

Every year, winter comes to RI (as it should). Then every year my family makes a cardboard house for the outdoor cats (they started off as one stray cat a couple of years ago, but of course multiplied). The cardboard houses would be thrown out at the end of winter since they would become soggy (even though we covered them in plastic bags) and an eye sore on the porch. Last winter, one of our friends got a little overambitious and made a house that was way too big (we could have fit both of our Golden Retrievers inside with room to spare), so the cats didn't use it. Last month I reorganized my room and decided to get rid of the cabinet I had placed my TV in. I was gonna toss or burn it, but decided to convert it in to a place for the cats to live. The light located on top doesn't light up, but is instead connected to a flashlight connected to the interior of the cabinet which does light up when the push light is "clicked".

Topic by FrenchCrawler   |  last reply


Advice from Brian Jewett- rusting a bathroom counter top to look like one on the website!?

Hi, I'm going to rust a 5' by 2' carbon steel countertop for my rustic, ranch bathroom.  It's being fabricated and will be ground off and ready to go.  I've got copper wire in some muriatic acid, I have a sack of rock salt and vinegar.  I've heard I can put the mixture on cardboard, and apply it that way.  (I'm being very careful....) First, I live in Wyoming.  Should I do this in a heated mudroom (16' X 16') or is this strictly outdoor only?  On a sunny day? it freezes at night. I'd like to finish this bathroom before a busy summer- Anyway, I've seen on the 'net I can get an overall rusty appearance.  Without telling too many trade secrets, can you advise me on achieving some "artistic" elements?  I'm not going in the business- I plan on using the penetrol and then sealing with spray poly (?).  I guess if this isn't going to work for a bathroom, someone should shoot me now. Thanks, the "sheepherdess"

Question by sheepherderes   |  last reply


Do some spiders leave a scent trail ? Answered

 I didn't think so but a colleague told me of his recent experience; He was in the living room watching TV and a huge spider came in along the floor. He is scared of spiders and sat there transfixed. He said it was the biggest spider that  he had ever seen.  He and his partner squashed it, ( stupid humans), and threw it in the bin. The next day he was in the same place and a big, (but not as big ), spider came along and did the exact same route through the room. He said that it was a very unusual route to take but he knew that it was identical because he had studied both of them with absolute fear-based attention. So apart from making him feel guilty about killing the first one he wondered if spiders leave a scent. I can't find any answer on google so I'm asking anyone who may have knowledge of spiders? Thank you. I can't seem to find a suitable channel so I've chosen camping in the hope that some outdoor type will know.

Question by FriendOfHumanity   |  last reply


The Makerlympics Contest has started!

Hi everyone! In honor of the 2014 Quadrennial International Winter Sporting Competition being held in Russia, we're holding a competition of our own. This is going to be a totally different kind of contest from the sort we normally run - the winners will be entirely up to the staff here at HQ and we're even going to give away medals. The Makerlympics Contest is open to any type of project - we want to see the best of the best! We're looking for fantastic photos, thorough documentation and new and original content. We'll have six Gold Medal winners - one for each category: Food, Living, Outdoors, Play, Tech, and Workshop! Twelve Silver Medal winners will be named as well - two from each category. Get documenting for your chance to win a Samsung 16.2MP MP Smart Wi-fi Digital Camera! The Makerlympics Contest closes on February 24th, 2014. P.S. - Stoked for the games? Make your own Olympic torch and share it with us here using the "I Made It!" button. We want to see torches carried all over the world! P.P.S - We just added Maker Olympic Medals to the prizes, so you can feel like a real champ!

Topic by jessyratfink   |  last reply


Minimalist survival kit help

I'm looking at a new prospective for a survival kit. I have an I.N.C.H. bag that i use camping. While I can pack it down to almost nothing, I dont use many of the bigger items. I was looking for ways to essentially minimize my bag. While I'm experience with the great outdoors, the minimalist aproach is a relitivly new concept to me. I want to base the kit on the ten essentials. I live in a harsh enviroment so I'd likely not be changing my shelter much. The shelter is already pretty basic.  This is my must-have gear: Map, Compass, Sunglasses, Extra clothing (a skivvy roll and what I'm wearing plus my hoody and ponchos), Illumination (Preferably no batteries), First-aid supplies, Firestarter, Matches, Knife and Extra food. My current sleep system is as follows: Medium Weather sleeping bag with compression sac, Compact collapsible cot, Goretex bivvy sac, Sleeping role and Grommeted space blanket. I'm more worried about weight than size. I will likely switch the cot for a hammock because it's pretty sizey and the metal rods make half the weight of the system. For food I was thinking keep my hobo stove and boyscout mess kit but im considering adding a hobo fishing rig. My current fishing kit is a multi function compact pole with a fly reel and spin cast reel. While very light weight it takes up some space. About 1.5'x8"x4" roughly. any ideas on additions or subtractions for the kit? I'm mostly trying to reduce weight. I'm strong but lugging around a ruck sack takes more than a simple backpack with this and that.  Any ideas are apreciated. I don't need a whole lot to live comfortably in the woods. The picture is of my I.N.C.H. bag pack in to my freighter frame. The black box is the fishing kit, the blue sac is the cot. Inside the pack is the sleeping bag bulging out. It's Probably my biggest item and in this pic is not in its compression sac as the sac was 'misplaced' while moving. I guess I'm asking for advise on downsizing the I.N.C.H. bag...

Topic by Skwurlito   |  last reply


New Instructables Categories and Channels

What's new Over the past few months, one of our big projects has been building new categories and channels for Instructables.  We're doing this to make it easier for users to find content and to make more compelling products for advertisers.  Much of the existing content has been recategorized by algorithm or by someone here at the lab, but we'll need your help both in making sure we (or the robot) got it right.  So, I wanted to give you a heads-up before the new scheme goes live, explain why we think it's important, and ask for your help! Why we're updating categories The existing categorization scheme with its 18 channels has served us well, but we've outgrown it.  First, the channels are too broad to meaningfully help a new user find more of the content they are excited about.  Should a new user arrive to a knitting Instructable from a Google search, they often have trouble finding other knitting Instructables within the Craft channel.  Related Instructables are helpful, but aren't clicked as often as we'd like, and don't give an immediate sense of the variety and number of knitting Instructables we have available.  The primary and secondary channels associated with an Instructable put yet another stumbling point in this new user finding more great content.  To new users, it's not immediately obvious that we allow multiple channels per Instructable, so when they are browsing through the Craft Instructables, it can be confusing to see a project with LEDs or a home repair project that happen to have Craft as their secondary channel.  This has been a similar point of confusion for our advertisers, who don't understand our current channel system. I'll be sad to see our two-channel categorization scheme go, but it's a necessary change to improve the way the site functions.  It feels a little bit like we're growing up! How the new categories and channels work To address these issues, we've created five new top-level categories and, within each category, lots of new channels.  Each Instructable will be placed in a single category and a single channel within that category.  The new categories are Living, Outside, Play, Technology, and Workshop.   • Living has all things related to crafting, decorating, cooking, parenting, and organizing. • Play has all things related to fun and games. • Workshop is everything one might do in a workshop or shed: home improvement, woodworking, and working on cars or bikes. • Technology and Outside are very similar to the existing Outdoors and Tech channels. Only five top-level categories might seem like too few, but remember that the vast majority of new visitors come directly to an Instructable via search - these folks will see other channels related to the Instructable they're viewing. For example, someone first coming to Instructables via a search for a sewing project will see that the project is in a sewing channel, that we have a knitting channel, and that both are in our Living category. Someone who has an account on Instructables is smarter than the average internet-searcher (in my opinion), so our community will quickly learn how to navigate the new structure. Hopefully we'll all discover lots of new Instructables in the process! How to recategorize your Instructables Log in, and go to your Instructable.  Click the "Change Keywords, Category(s), License" text in the Author Options box, and you'll see a section called "New Categories."  Pick a top-level category from the upper drop-down menu, then select a channel from the second menu.  Hit Update, and you're done!  When the new organization scheme is visible on the site in a few weeks, this is the category and channel your Instructable will appear in. We're still working out the kinks in this new system, and expect to be creating and combining channels as needed to make finding things on the site easier.  While you must pick a category, if you don't see a channel that matches your project, you may choose to leave it unsorted.  We'll keep an eye on unsorted projects, and will either sort it or update the channels as needed. Thanks for your help!  We hope this new scheme makes it easier to find the projects you want to see on Instructables.

Topic by canida   |  last reply


how do i help my 3 rabbits goin after each toher?

I have 4 rabbits, all females we are 99% sure we have had them for a year and about 3 months, they live in a large hutch outside with a large run space. after a while Chippy would tear out the others fur, i thot it would stop but i didnt so we separated her.now the other three are toether and they are humping each others face, when one is laying down one will come up put their nose under the others crotch and make the one they are biting get up. when they dont hump the others face, they hump like normal but hold on to who ever their humpings fur and then tear it out when they are done. i think its maintaing dominance but it keeps going on....through out the after noon they will die down and not do it to each other. (the 3 run in the run area during the day and at 5pm i put the 3 in the hutch and let chippy run until about 9 then put them all in at night, chippy goes in his own area closed up on the top of hutch other 3 on bottom half.) dureing the after noon till about 3 or 4 the are totaly chill with each other. they lay with one another, clean each other, etc.  Should i just wait for them to pick a dominant or is it more serious...  summer is comeing and we are going to get chippy his own hutch and split the run in half so all 4 of them can be out 24/7 and have more room.  Will it get better when they arent in side all night, is that the problem??  Please help i dont know what to do!

Question by four bunnies   |  last reply


"dry box" for drying clothes in humid weather

Hi all,I'm thinking of building something helping me to dry my laundry in the amazingly wet weather that I'm getting in the place I live now.I searched instructables for a while, but did not find anything that really applies. This might be due to the fact that I'm both new to instructables, and not a native English speaker. I might be using the wrong keywords.So I live in a very humid and foggy place, and it's winter now. When I hang my clothes out to dry, the process takes ages. Sometimes I think it might be working backwards: the clothes become wetter. Also, an unpleasant byproduct is that my clothes become smelly, despite they are clean. Sometimes, as a last resort, I hang my clothes inside the house. But my house is very small, and I do not really have a place for the clothes hanger. Plus, the house gets very humid and I am afraid I'm going to get mold. On the other hand, I have a rather large balcony, with a lot of place for the clothes hanger.Of course I could buy a clothes dryer. I actually use a coin-operated one for large items, such as bed sheets and large towels. But I'd rather not use a tumble dryer for my clothes.However I recently learned about heat recovery ventilation for houses, and I started wondering whether the same concept could be used to build a small-ish enclosure (a box) where air is kept warmer and dyer than outside, possibily in a controlled manner. Also, it would be very nice to get energy from the sun. Surely the walls of this box could be transparent, or black, to create some kind of greenhouse effect. Then I need a fan, to have the air circulating. The air could go through a heat recovery unit. This could probably solar-powered. On the other hand, I am not sure that solar panels would be helpful for heating the inside of the box by night (energy should be of course stored, but I do not think that would be enough).I see that something similar to what I'm thinking about is already on sale e.g. on amazon. These are called "portable clothes dryers", but they do not seem really optimized. They look like a combination of a hair dryer, a clothes rack and a tent. I do not think there is a real heat exchanger, or humidity control...Plus, they do not seem really safe, especially if operated outdoors.Can someone give me some advice, e.g. pointing me to projects that use similar ideas possibly for different purposes?Thanks a lotFrancesco

Topic by pieffebi   |  last reply


Bizzare Google Earth images of my home town.

I was fiddling around with google earth the other day when I realized that I've never looked at the area around my home town in Nebraska. I dialed in the coordinates and pulled up the satellite images, and what I found was so profoundly strange that I felt compelled to share it. What you are seeing here are topographical images of prairie land and cows. The land consists of small rolling hills of dry grassland, and as you can see, the only landmarks to speak of are the cattle stock tanks. These tanks are essentially circular, large, metal, outdoor swimming pools, some as wide as 30 feet across. The tanks are placed on some of the higher hills with a windmill powered pump to keep the tank full of fresh water. Cattle are then let loose on the land to graze on grass and drink from the tanks. Over time the cattle wear down paths in the grass leaving only dusty trails concentrated around the tanks. I am speculating here a bit, but my theory is that rainfall then follows these trails down the hills and creates the strange, vein like lines through the grass. I don't know how long the area has been used for keeping cattle, but my father grew up here and will be able to tell me more later. The final image is of the developed farm land a little closer to civilization. Most people don't know this, but Nebraskans are really into pie charts. Ok, that may be just me, these are are the patterns left by automatic springler systems. They are literally "crop circles" as corn and sugar beets are only planted within the area that the center pivot sprinkler can reach. PS: These stock tanks are ripe with salamanders, but I still have yet to learn how they got in tanks in the first place? It's too dry to walk to the tanks, and they are pretty far from natural water anyway. There is a massive aquifer underneath all of this, maybe they get pumped up into the tanks? Can salamanders live in aquifers?

Topic by Tomdf   |  last reply


Year-to-Data, March 2014

Tl;dr: Check out this pie chart that shows the distribution of projects published in 2014 by category. The outer ring shows the channel within the category that had the highest volume of entries, along with the year to date project count. Do you ever wonder how the projects on Instructables are distributed across categories? I did, too. In a tenuous-at-best connection to the Pi Day Pie Contest, we made a pie chart showing where all the newly-published projects have been categorized since the start of 2014. That outside ring shows the most popular channels within the category, along with a project count for each. Some quick observations: (1) There isn’t as much food as I would have thought. It seems like people are posting food ALL THE TIME, but apparently the overall project volume is coming in via other channels. I guess we’re just getting a lot of good food entries that are being featured more often. The quality of authors’ food photography is getting very good, and the featuring team may be featuring projects under the influence of hunger. (2) Contests drive some (but not all) project builds. Since the start of the year, we’ve run paracord, organization, electronics, and crafting contests. And, wouldn’t you know it, those are the channels receiving the bulk of new projects. Even without a special contest, the Toys channel received an outsized number of projects, so we’ll see what happens later this year when we run a few contests around toys. (Pro-tip: Start stockpiling LEGO and KNEX pieces.) (3) Technology and Living make up just over half of the site’s new content. Sure, the robot has a strong preference for electronics projects, but we’re seeing a lot of great craft projects coming in as well. Either way, an army of hot-tool wielding* makers are creating some really cool stuff. (4) This community may be a little paranoid, but we’re prepared. Paracord and survival projects account for almost all of the outdoor projects we’ve seen so far this year. If I’m stuck in a rural farmhouse surrounded by zombies, I want some of you all right there with me. If you’re worried about the imminent collapse of civilization and are concerned that Instructables won't be around to help with the power out, you can buy a book of some of our best homesteading projects. You’ll be sitting pretty with a chicken coop and some rain barrels while everyone else gets punched over a can of soup. (Don't get punched over a can of soup.) (5) Did you notice anything interesting? Sound off in the comments. I've got some 3 month pro memberships to give away to insightful commenters. :D *or hot, tool-wielding authors.

Topic by wilgubeast   |  last reply


Any tips on disassembling bullet camera and relocating the lens module?

Hello!  I've been reading instructables for a while and now it's time to join and post a question. I've been finding nails in my driveway and want to catch who's doing this.  I've got a 4 channel security camera on it's way and have been thinking and researching ways to hide them.  Due to the 'clean' surfaces around my home, it's going to be tough to make the 2" diameter x 6" long bullet cameras blend in (so people don't vandalize/steal them).  I've spent hours searching how to camouflage cameras, so I know the 'typical' tricks. I'm thinking about making a fake gutter extension and hiding the camera in there (so it blends into my one story house), possible installing a gable vent on my garage and pointing a camera through that, or trying to mount a camera about 20' up a nearby tree.  My favorite idea is to take apart a bullet camera and move the camera lens module, which is much smaller than the whole camera housing, to a more discreet location. I've searched for a while but can't find anyone who has done this with an IP66 outdoor style camera.  I know I'm going to lose the IR LED's around the lens, and that's ok (I'll have 3 other cameras for night vision).  I think I can point the camera through a small knot hole in my privacy fence and be able to detect who has last walked by when the nails appear.  I might make a small weather proof enclosure to protect the lens module...I think I'm a good tinker-er so this isn't the problem. Has anyone hacked apart a security camera and moved the lens module (by extending the wires) to a remote location?  I know there are small cameras for sale, I know I can hide a camera in a bird house, etc...but I like to make things.  I'm just looking for advice/tips from someone who has done this.  When I search for 'hack apart a security camera' I get a bunch of 'hacking into a security system', or 'spy on your neighbors'...I don't want to do either of those.  I have great neighbors, I live in a corner house where a lot of people/kids walk...I just want to catch them.  Once I know who's doing it, I'll move the cameras to more visible locations (to deter others from doing anything else). Thanks for any help!

Topic by MountainBikeOutlaw   |  last reply


Electron Club Open Day Show and Tell, Glasgow 13 June

Electron Club Open Day2pm-8pm Saturday 13th June 2009Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA), 350 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, G2 3JDThe Electron Club is a voluntary run space where people interested in things like free open source software, circuit bending, hardware hacking, computer recycling, streaming, audio and video editing, green technologies, and amateur radio can meet, use equipment, and share anddisseminate their skills and ideas. The space supports both individuals developing their own projects and a number of group projects, all of which are not-for-profit initiatives with a community, educational or environmental aspect to them.Now in our third year, the Electron Club Open Days are an opportunity to see and try out a range of things that people do, as well as having the opportunity to meet others with similar interests, make, chat, discuss and enjoy.TESLA SOUL - Electron Club Makers Fair and homebaking - Bajery in the Makery!Stalls and demos by electronic makers, designers and artists. An opportunity to see and play with some of the projects created by Electron Club members and related groups - a theremin menagerie and mini synthesizer kits, 3D paper engineering, circuit bending, micro FM radio,DIY wind power technology, creative computer trash recycling, 101 things to do with a dead keyboard and much more. Plus some of the excellent home-baking that has been hallmark of all our Open Days. Come and do a bit of soldering or have a cup of tea and chat with the people who make things.TAPE-WIRE-HEAD-SCREEN - music, film and sound artsThe Electron Club includes many people working in music, film and experimental arts. For the Open Day we will be showing a preview of films from Document, the UK's leading human rights film festival, with works ranging from front-line reportage to cinematic explorations of what it is to be human, along with films made at the Electron Club by the Digital Desperados, a film-group for young black and Asian women. We'll have a live performance of Alvin Lucier's legendary "Music on A Long Thin Wire" by members of 'Obscure Desire of the Bourgeoisie' and BuffalobuffalobuffaloBuffalobuffalo'. Outdoors, artist Lucie Potter will invite people on a specially planned sound walk around the Garnethill area.THE LIFE OF SOCIAL THINGS - socially-engaged technology forumA series of discussions about different ways in which society and technology come together.Glasgow FabLabsFabLabs are small scale fabrication and construction workshops that provide computerised production technologies on an artisanal scale making them available to communities and independent makers and designers. From inner-city Boston to remote Indian villages, FabLabshave become a worldwide network of community technology centres. Glasgow FabLabs is a project aiming to bring such a centre to Glasgow. This forum will present the ideas behind the Glasgow FabLabs project and explore the benefits of community-access technology.Community Media and Citizens JournalismThe internet has offered a platform for communities and groups outside of the mainstream media to have a voice and share knowledge. Whilst there are many notable examples of such activity, the tools to create such a democratized media space are still often out of people's reach.This forum will look at some practical examples of community media coming from Glasgow, present some current projects looking to make ordinary people's voices more prominent and explore the relationships between the grass-roots and mainstream media.Technology, Social Justice and the EnvironmentHow can we use technology for the greater common good? Whilst the advance of technology promotes the promise of a better world, that promise has often been compromised or undermined in how we make use of such advances. Certain technological developments have contributed to environmental and social problems on a scale arguably never seen before.Technology, however, has also been used to tackle such issues as climate change and social injustice. This forum will share and explore some practical examples being used in Scotland today, from noise monitoring devices to participatory video and community mapping projects.RAFFLE - broadband fundraiserThis year we are raising funds to improve our network facilities at the Electron Club and we will be doing a raffle with prizes including a group voucher to go paintballing.http://www.electronclub.org Contact: openday@electronclub.org

Topic by greensteam 


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply