What materials do i require? how do i go about building a oven?
Question by delish dish | last reply
What materials do i require? how do i go about building a oven?
Question by delish dish | last reply
Please don't laugh but I am building a small working oven for my daughter and need a heating element that can heat it from 70 to 220 degrees celsius via a thermostat. I've found this heating element http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ceramic-heating-elements/3762795/ or http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ceramic-heating-elements/1988529/ and this thermostat http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7334726/ but am not sure these are suitable and would work together. The oven will measure about 15cm wide x 8cm hit x 10cm deep but I don't have to stick to this.Any help or advice would be amazing. You're laughing aren't you? :)
Topic by gooseisloose | last reply
Hey :)Does anyone know how to power an oven resistor ? Is it really a simple resistor (I'm not sure as it is directly exposed in oven, it seems too dangerous for the user if it is simply a metal stick) ? If I plug it to 220V sine 50Hz will it heat ? Thanks :)
Question by QuentinP16 | last reply
When looking at various solar oven on instructables, they almost all use refective coating of some sort on the inside. That to me makes sense for the concentrators/parabolic/funnel ovens, etc. I am just wondering if the regular box ovens if it really makes as much difference or if the heating factor there is more so just the still air in the box being heated and not able to escape. I want to start making solar ovens to get an idea of how they work. I have a square piece of 1/4 inch glass, probably 4 ft by 3 ft. I thought about just digging a cubic hole in the ground and laying the glass over top.
Topic by avocadostains | last reply
I have a problem with my oven which is tripping the fuses. It has a grill, top and bottom heating. I have diconnected each of the elements and think I have isolated it to one of the elements. I have removed that element and find, I can get a continuity reading across the two in put terminals, which I guess just means it is intact. However, I get a low reading across the earth and one terminal. Can anyone tell me if that is what I should expect? It's so annoying as I have had the oven almost 5 years (new with the new apartment) and this is the first time I have tried to use it. Previously I just used my combi microwave. Thanks for any advice.
Topic by johncar | last reply
My troop used to have this great reflector oven, that was good for making brownies, cookies, cakes, etc. But somehow, it has been stolen/lost/misplaced/destroyed, and we no longer have it anymore. After looking at the internet for a while, I haven't found any good how to's for making a reflector oven, so maybe one of you engineers who loves camping and good food could make an 'ible on how to make a Reflector Oven. Thanks! -Pandadude aka some dude with a name.
Topic by pandadude | last reply
We're getting rid of our electric oven/ range today because 3 out of the 4 burners don't work. I figured that in that whole oven, there must be some useful materials, So what should I pull from it, and if you have any ideas, what could I do with it? As you can imagine, search results were very broad when I looked for "Oven" and "Stove". Any suggestions are welcome.
Topic by Bando_Red | last reply
My wife was making potato wedges last night when in the middle of cooking the bottom burner catches fire and starts to sparkle like a party sparkler. I run for my camera and when I get back to the kitchen its over my wife turned off the stove and when I turned the stove back on nothing happens. Now that the fun part is over does anyone want me to do an Instructable on how to repair an oven element? The white marks are from the electrical fire.
Topic by Josehf Murchison | last reply
I just got a used controlled vapor oven from a restaurant auction. It works, but the evaporator heating coil turns off too early. So, I've opened the thing up to investigate (and possibly rewire or reprogram). Modernist Cuisine has cross-sectional views of inside a cvap (click look inside on Amazon and search for "cvap"), but if you don't have a copy, here are my pictures of inside a cvap. Right now, I'm cooking a full bone-in pork shoulder for 24 hours that I brined in a 5% salt solution for the previous 24 hours.
Topic by ewilhelm
This is my Microwave Oven Transformer stack. It is currently current limited using a heater. There is approximately 10 36 watt 4' fluorescent tubes in a string around my garage that I am lighting with the MOT stack .My MOT stack contains 4 Microwave Oven Transformers connected with their outputs in series and their inputs in parallel. They are mounted on plastic cutting boards. I am using threaded rod to hold the layers in place while the PVC pipe covers the threaded rod and it also supports some of the weight. The output of this is approximately 8800VAC at 350mA The Input voltage is 240VAC Thanks for looking, Please comment and remember to rate if you like it! Just say if you want any pics of a certain thing, e.g. the MOT stack arcing to wood/metal etc. (I will try to get more pics of it arcing soon but it is hard to use a camera that has like a second delay before it takes the actual pic from when you press the button, stupid camera) ********************************************************************************************************** Edit The new pictures are of an arc between two carbon electrodes. The other pictures are of 12 fluorescent tubes connected in series but arranged in parallel so you can see them all
Topic by thermoelectric | last reply
I am selling microwave oven welders like the one in the link below, https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Microwave-Transformer-Homemade-Welder/ the reason I'm selling these home made welders is do you know how much work it takes to build one and make a nice case for one, HA! have fun, but for those of you who don't have the time or patients to build one, then BUY ONE! there's alot you can do with onethe scech of the welders I am selling is the PDF below SORRY I DONT HAVE PICTURES YET!the speck's for them are about 70 AMPS (I'm leaving extra space so when I figure how to get more AMPS,there can be just another part installed and you have more AMPS) and for a little extra money you can have it so you can vari the AMPS ( about $20)its air cooled PRICE! for one of these welders is $50 AND $20 for the vari AMP
Topic by Danielro10
I have two wall ovens that don't work and I'd like to recycle them into solar-ovens... if possible.
Question by RickC47 | last reply
I have a Odis Spunkmeyer convection cookie oven, and it seems to me one could superheat air and blow it in with solar, perhaps a tube that would be more practical for heating just air then blowing the air into the oven. Is this just me thinking out of my butt or is this feasible?
Question by Sarah C J | last reply
When i bought my house there was an old brick fire pit in the back yard. it is about 3 foot square and 2.5 feet tall with a brick column like chimney up the back, that is also 2.5 feet tall. I already have a nice bbq and am wondering it it would be possible or worth it to build the fire pit up into a pizza oven? I have never laid brick before and the brick oven project i found when searching the site did not look to be made of brick.
Topic by LivingDread | last reply
I'm looking to make a helmet here soon, but, I need to make a visor for it. I know I can use a heatgun to shape Lexan/PETG, however, I have heard that using an oven is a better choice. My question being, if a fiberglass mold/template save to put in an oven? It would be a pepakura process mold. After reviewing some steps, I need to amend another question onto this: would it be better to use another material for a model? Again, I would be using a home oven, and using PETG/Lexan. The new material would have to be castable, as I would make a positive mold of the inside of the visor, to composite for the thickness of the PETG/Lexan.
Question by DoctorWoo | last reply
OK, i just pulled this huge transformer out of a microwave today and was just wondering how on earth to hook it up. Pictures below. so please help. And sorry about the pictures being sideways. The bolts you see are on the bottom.
Question by budhaztm | last reply
I got an old Coquelle with black wooden handles, my subscribers probably remember them from some of my recipes. Recently the handles started to crumble and even broke when I tried to detach them. Now I am looking for a replacement, but the only info that I get is that wooden pan handles are made from English Oak. Later they made them from phenolic resin and today they are made of steel. But I am looking for wooden replacements for my dutch oven. And I don't want to use any coating or varnish because I still want to prepare food in the Coquelle at 200°C. Any ideas which unprocessed wood I could use?
Question by Joerg Engels
I recently obtained a microwave oven inverter and I've been doing a lot of research trying to figure out how to power it. The microwave I found came with schematics and a decoder for the button membrane so I am able to operate the main control board and the MICOM board outside of the unit (with slight modifications) but I have yet to test the inverter in fear of blowing it up. Currently my question is can I build a 555 PWM to cheat the CPU or bypass it completely? if not then I suppose I could use the microwaves original circuitry to do so but I'd like to build a nice solid state tesla coil with it if possible. Instructables is being retarded and wont let me add notes to my pictures image one - Main control board to the left, MICOM control board in the middle, Iverter on the right image two - Slight modifications to power the board outside of the microwave image three - Used decoding chart to operate main circuit without button assembly image four and five - Showing the output of the MICOM board going to the CPU on the inverter and settings of Oscope (channel A)
Question by Jimmy Proton | last reply
Hi there....as previously mentioned in another question I bought a money pit house and it seems one appliance after another is crapping out. I have a gas stove/oven and it worked fine until the other day. I went to use the oven and it is not heating up. I don't even smell the gas when I turn the dial on the oven. The range/burners are working just fine. The pilot light is electric. Any advice would be grately appreciated!
Question by sherie | last reply
Question by arnold54 | last reply
What can I use for an oven switch? I want a switch to turn "eyes" on and off on my child's play oven.
Question by commercial free | last reply
There needs to be either a contest for cooking stuff in a toaster oven, or a category in food for cooking in a toaster oven. I'm going to college in a few months and I need yummy recipes and how to make them cook right in a toaster oven, since I can have one in my dorm.
Topic by hlagas | last reply
Can it be done?
Question by rockandjay | last reply
Can Flyback Transformer drive by Induction Oven? I thing Induction Oven can create 20kHz-40kHz. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_cooking And Flyback Transformer need high frequency to work. I thing waveform is not a problem. I used plasma ball driver , CFL ballast driver and Halogen Transformer as my FBT driver . And work well.
Question by james34602 | last reply
I have done succesful oven bakes on xbox 360 board and graphic cards. Now i have a sodimm ddr 1gb ram which doesnt work. The laptop does not boot with this ram . I thought that maybe an oven bake would work. I do 8 minutes on 230 C for the xbox 360 and graphic card. Is that overkill for one little ram chip? thanks in advance
Question by la-main | last reply
Can NOT use a oven as our oven is questionable with it's temperature & I live in a apartment that has very little cross-ventilation. So anything that gives off a smell would be hard. (The place stunk up from spray painted items that I had to stick them to dry in my car. Would top coat nail polish or sealer (wax) work?
Question by Detetiv | last reply
I have three micro oven transformer, which am using to build a tesla coil. unfortunaterly am in a state of confusion in knowing the polarity of the transformer...:-( so i need some guide to tell me how to check their polarity.....?
Question by richardsbabu | last reply
No visible mechanical buzzer. Seems to be one of the little boxes that is attached to the circuit board. I know nothing about electronics. Don't want to kill myself or ruin the microwave, but that damn buzzer is driving everybody crazy! Help!
Question by melnel | last reply
This brick oven is a temp one I made. Now I am thinking to make a permanent one. I just wonder how to give a better shape. Like this one, I always feel it is a tomb-like thing. GOD. See, I made sour dough and whole wheat Pita bread every day, yammy! I love to put vegeterian ham and pickled vegetable inside pita.
Topic by quinault | last reply
Hello! I have a question for people who use oogoo, or generally DIY silicone molding putty made from 100% silicone caulk. I want to cast oogoo molds of lego bionicle masks with polymer clay, but my issue is I need to keep the clay inside the mold in order to prevent any kind of warping, as most of it is spread a little thin (1-2mm thickness) and I don't want to end up warping it even in the slightest. Is oogoo or cured 100% silicone caulk oven-safe as long as it's within the specified temperature range? (I already know most DIY silicone putties aren't food-grade.) The silicone caulk I'm using is GE all purpose silicone I, mixed with corn starch, acrylic paint, and baby oil. The back of the tube says that it should not be used on surfaces that will exceed 400F/205C. The polymer clay I plan on using is cured at 110C, so I don't think it'll be a problem, but I'm worried exposing the silicone caulk mold to high temperatures will cause it to release some harmful chemical compounds. I looked up an MSDS sheet for GE silicone, and they had a generalized one stating exceeding the maximum temperature will cause the release of formaldehyde. Since I plan on baking these in our kitchen oven, I wouldn't want harmful chemicals contaminating a space where we cook our food. Also, if baking isn't an option, since the polymer clay is spread thin, and cures close to 100C, would curing it in boiling water be an option? (That way any water soluble chemicals would remain contained while the clay hardens.) All help is appreciated!
Topic by SixFootBlue | last reply
I was browsing the site as I am often wont to do, and spent quite some time revisiting old 'ibles covering various solar projects, almost all of which are heat related. I understand from general consensus that PV (photo voltaic) solar systems are very inefficient and one of the worst ways to harvest solar energy (when considering the cost of construction and the energy transfer capacity, etc.) Almost everyone who knows what they are doing suggest that the best (and easiest) way to harvest solar energy is to collect the heat - be it to heat air or water, cook food, or other such purposes.Now, I have recently been fascinated by a discovery relatively new to me, peltier units. These devices, for those who don't know, can work in one of three ways. They can harvest and/or produce either heat, cold, or electricity.Basically, if an electric current is run through a unit, it produces heat on one side and an equal amount of 'cold' on the other. Yes I know you can't produce cold - but for the layman, that is what we call it.Or, if one side is heated while the other side is cooled, the unit produces an amount of electricity from the difference in temperatures. One example I have seen and plan to make use of is in vehicles - if you place one or more of these on your exhaust manifold, or any other location where the engine produces waste heat, and airflow can reach it to cool the other side, you generate electricity from the waste heat energy that would otherwise just be . . . well, wasted.But it occurred to me today, if you had a unit attached in the middle of a solar collector, focusing sunlight on one side of the peltier unit, and isolate the other side of the unit in some cooling medium (perhaps even just air with a heat sink of some sort - more likely a cooling liquid though), how effective would this be at harvesting solar energy (heat) into electricity?Actually, I have been using the more common name of peltier, but I believe that for this application a seebeck unit (which is nearly the same, but different) would be required. As I understand it, Peltier units are used more as coolers and are almost always constructed with Bismuth Telluride (Bi2Te3) and used around room temperature and below; while Seebeck units are good for power generators are often constructed of PbTe or, SiGe as well as Bi2Te3 and are used at much higher temperatures.From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect :The effect is that a voltage, the thermoelectric EMF, is created in the presence of a temperature difference between two different metals or semiconductors. This causes a continuous current to flow in the conductors if they form a complete loop. The voltage created is of the order of several microvolts per degree difference.((more info can be found at the referenced wiki page on formulae etc.))Just curious on if this would ever be a decent way to harvest solar energy into electricity. I have also thought up using a thermal siphon solar heating system in which the liquid flows past one or more water wheels which power a small (and obviously slow) generator - but at that point I believe it would be so inefficient and limited in use as to just have absolutely no practical application. The peltier unit (used as a seebeck unit) would probably do better, but I am not certain, which is why I post the question.
Topic by karossii | last reply
Question by DEG | last reply
I have recently moved from conventional oven to fan oven. The pastry bases come out raw. I use a glass baking dish and set the oven on multi-function, i.e. all elements ad fan on. Advice please.
Question by johnmus3 | last reply