So my old laptop overheated again, i need help on stopping this...
Topic by Yerboogieman 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
I have an Acer Aspire x1700 that I am trying to fix. I have replaced the 220w psu with a Seasonic 250w because this model is known to have bad power supplies (it wouldn't power on at all with the original psu). I also replaced the original thermal paste since I removed the heatsink/fan to clean it. When I got everything back in and plugged it in, no power. I read that the graphics card (Nvidia Geforce G100) can sometimes fail and cause the pc to not power on. I removed that and turned it on. This time it had power and booted normally to the Windows desktop. After about a minute the cpu fan became very loud, like a jet taking off, then it completly shut down. Could I have not applied the thermal paste properly and it was overheating?
Question by Arya42 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I've made a post on apple's forums and bumped it several times and no one wants to help me, I still haven't gotten one single reply and it's been almost a week. Anyways, I recently pulled it apart and took the heatsink off and put thermalpaste on the cpu and removed the thermal pad which was getting worn out by the looks of it. But now it runs rather hot, I'm not sure if it's always ran this hot or not as I was stupid and didn't look before it was apart. But it runs around 50-60 C idle with just msn on and up to 70 C when I play games. I'm really worried about this. Theres two adjustable nuts by the cpu and I thought I tightened it enough, should I just tighten it until it won't anymore? Thank you everyone that helps me. I know this isn't a computer forum, but I'm sick of waiting when I can see post after post being made and answered in the same forum I have mine in. Apples suck, yes they do
Topic by Punkguyta 12 years ago | last reply 12 years ago
Hi Everyone, As I'm a newbie, please forgive my ignorance for asking what maybe an obvious question. I've got an Arduino Uno and a DK Electronics v1.0 motor shield (powered separately at 12v). I downloaded a library and managed to get a NEMA 23 stepper motor working. Trouble is, the chip on the shield doing all the work gets scarily hot in next to no time. The rated current of the motor is 1A, although when I tried it, it was under no load. I've checked the power consumption when driving the motor from a standalone controller and it's drawing no more than 250mA. Do you guys think:- a) I'm overloading the shield? b) I've got a fault? c) I scare too easily? Any feedback will be gratefully received. Thanks
Topic by Liebherrguy 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hello i have a question.. i have made a usb charger using a 9 v bat and a 5 v voltage regulator but the battery duracell overheats way to much... same batt connected to a led strip 12 v. it works but it overheats as well..... any ideas? my usb charger is on my page..... anybody have an idea why this happens? cheers
Question by stevenarango 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I built a simple LM386 based audio amplifier (schematic attached), but it appears to be over-amplifying, as it makes horrible squeaking noises and picks up a lot of interference. It also gets very hot in use, so I only switch it on for a few seconds at a time. I'm guessing this is because of the high amplification as I have a commercial amplifier that uses an LM386 and it does so without a heatsink, although unfortunately I can't reverse-engineer it and even if I did, my circuit would almost certainly have to be remade. I tried changing the potentiometer today from 1k to 10k and even 100k, but they didn't have much affect. What component(s) should I change to give ti less amplification, I only need about 2-6 times amplification, preferably adjustable but it doesn't matter too much.
Question by andy70707 7 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
While running one of my projects, my Arduino is getting really hot. It's swtiching somewhere around 14 I/O's really fast (im not sure exactly how fast, but its refreshing somewhere around 2.5 milliseconds each time). The chip gets really warm, and to burning hot in about 20 mins. The project runs fine (I've tested for at least an hour, with no ill effects) but Im just wondering if its normal and/or safe. Also the voltage regulator chip gets really hot if i run the same sketch with a 9v wall wart rated at 350 ma, and also with a wall wart rated 7.5v at 2.14 A (the v-reg on the arduino board doesnt get hot if i run it off USB). Should I be concerned? -Astroboy907
Question by astroboy907 8 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I've nearly completed the proto-type for my holiday project, but I've run into a snag with the power supply. I have 10 LEDs wired in pairs, with a resistor on each pair (I used the LED wizard... yay!). I have a simple push-button SPST switch for added convenience. When testing the wired up LEDs along the way, I used the battery, and even held the leads on the battery's contacts for a minute, and the battery did not change temperature. Gazing upon my 'success', I decided it was time to finish up the wiring, add the switch, the battery connector and battery, and bask in the glory of having finished the prototype. Not so much. Before I could even push the button to turn on the lights, the battery was already heating up (in less than 15 seconds). I pushed the button to see if the lights would go on, and they did. I immediately disconnected the battery and scratched my head. I changed the leads on the switch, although not a likely cause, it had to be ruled out. Same result. Can anyone offer some suggestions? Corrections? **trying not to weep openly but is glad she got an early start on her holiday project**
Question by Blooette 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Talking to Xbox support I was told that it's due to my xbox 360 overheating... Even when the house temperature is at 73 degrees! I'm about ready to take a hammer to my beloved xbox. I'm not about to pay 140 bucks (my warranty already expired so I have nothing to lose with a little DIY ;) ) Any advice?
Question by Treslayton 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I've bought a 3A 12x2v tramsformer. . from half m getting about 18v output. applying bridge rectifier i filtererd into DC. But my problem is using LM7812 or LM7809 it gets extremly hot although i've used heatsink... so my question is 1. What can I do to avoid overheating ? 2. How can I use this 3A transformer as 1 or 1.5 A if i need?
Question by tamzidur 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I've been using the mc34063 in boost converter manner to build an external battery circuit for 3.7v->5v DC-DC conversion, but within few minutes of operation the chip and the inductor begin to overheat beyond touchable (light smell of burning components too), occurring with both circuits that I had. I've tested using the following devices: ipod touch 2G, ipod touch 5G, kross g6 tablet, all of which had the circuit overheat. The power source is 4 cylindrical cells in parallel @ 3.8v ~9A with protection circuit. The batteries do not overheat and I'm guessing the protection circuit regulates the current to an extent. I've tested the current draw of the ipod 5G to 100mA while the circuit is wired for 500mA. This is what the schematic looks like: http://www.eeworld.com.cn/uploadfile/dygl//201210/20121025102243965.png I would like some help in troubleshooting the overheating of the circuit, Thank you.
Question by Ahyku 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I have TDA7297(stereo) and TDA2030A(Mono) amplifier boards and i wanna use both at once. When i just split the input into two and connected it to them 7297 was overheating and i heard scratching sounds (reflection from unfinished Power supply for 2030A?) The problem may be the input impedance-7294 has around 30k and 2030A half a milion ohm. Do i need resistors in series with 7297 input, parallel to 2030A or what else could be problem? Im using 2 separated Power supplies.
Question by AnotherD1 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
My Dell Studio laptop turns off without any warning and when I restart the computer it complains of a problem caused by overheating. It only happens when I am running Windows Vista but it does not happen when I am running Ubuntu in the same machine. It does not seem to be a BIOS problem. I reinstalled Windows Vista and it keeps doing the same thing. The fan runs full speed first before the machine shuts off. I must have gremlins in my computer that hate Microsoft! It is the truth people I am not making this stuff! Can it be a corrupted thermal driver or a BIOS update that went wrong? I upgraded the BIOS to A6. Thank you very much for your help!
Question by blkhawk 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have an old golf cart. Where talking mid-to-late 80's. Last summer the engine compartment got so hot that the little bits of the plastic surrounding the gas tank partially melted and deformed. Luckily the melting that took place didn't do any real damage. But I'm afraid that if it happens again something might catch fire. So I was wondering if there are anyways to make that thing run WAY cooler.
While using my computer upstairs I randomly get shut down. Mostly all I am running is iTunes- not much else. It will shutdown when playing a movie for about 5-10 minutes without pausing, and sometimes (but not nearly as much) while playing music. Its on Win XP Pro, 3ghz Intel Pentium 4, 1gb of RAM (SDRAM?). Computer gives no error/overheating messages. I have no active internet connection, but I have some temp. monitoring programs installed (speedfan + intel software) and I can get programs on it with a USB flash drive. Computer did have an overheating problem, but I attributed that to the broken PSU fan. Replaced the PSU and it ran a lot cooler, except for this new problem. Any ideas?
Question by astroboy907 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am planning on buying a peltier unit and have a few questions about it. This website gave me the idea so I figured I would ask here.What I'm planning to buy, http://www.virtualvillage.com/158w-thermoelectric-cooler-peltier-plate/sku001540-003I'm just going to list the questions and hope that someone is willing to answer,1. I understand that these unit get very hot and very cold at the same time, from my knowledge (which is not much so correct me if I'm wrong) of electronics the cold isn't really much of an issue but the heat could cause problems. Do I need to run a heatsink maybe with a fan on the hot side to prevent damage to the unit?2. It lists its' range as 0-15volts and 0-10amps I know overpowering a unit can cause damage to it, can under-powering non-mechanical electronics cause damage as well? Can you even under-power a peltier unit?3. On the website it states "Temperature Range: -60C to 180C" is this the temperature range I can expect the unit to reach at 158W or is it the range in which the device will operate?I would like to thank anyone in advance for taking the time to answer any of these questions.
Topic by Tpolich 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I am trying to control a DC motor using 4 transistors, i am using 547 transistors connected to a motor with two on each axis, the opposite corners are wired together with two pushbuttons, the transistors change the polarity of the motor so that if one button i pressed the motor spins one way, the other button vice versa, but the motor is running very slowly in this setup and the last two transistor that go from the motor to ground heat up very quickly. the circuit works fine with only one transistor but i want to be able to change the direction of spin, does anyone know why the transistors are acting like this or a better circuit to control a DC motor? thanks very much!
Topic by sholtob 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I recently upgraded my hardware (I put in two 8600 GT's in SLI, and an E6850, both used), and shortly after, my games began to lock up. Whatever was on the screen would stay there, and the last second of audio would loop. The only way to get out of it was a hard reset. Then I noticed when I unplugged my other two hard drives, games wouldn't freeze up anymore. So I replaced my 400 watt PSU with a 550 watt, with 50 amps on the 12 volt rails. Everything seemed to clear up, until today, when I was browsing Newegg and listening to Audioslave (not very resource intensive), and it locked up with the same symptoms for no apparent reason. I'm getting worried now, as I shelled out 75 bucks for a decent PSU and the same stuff is happening. My CPU idles in the upper 30's to lower 40's, and peaks at 60 C in games. I know it's a bit toasty, but it shouldn't be hot enough to cause this sort of problem, right? So if anyone has any ideas about what's going on, any help is appreciated.
Question by RelaxedSoup 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
When my comp is on a flat surface, i.e. table, it overheats, when the vent is exposed and well, not touching anything, just hanging, it over heats, in fact I tried this question many times, but it overheated while typing, How do I fix?
Question by davison112 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
A friend of mine introduced me to the idea of over clocking my processor. He said it can be dangerous due to over heating issues. I am willing to add new fans into my PC so long as the speed can be controlled. I will not be able to obtain a better heatsink however (My heatsink is pretty beefy already). Ive done some research but have only been able to find very broad forums. I need to know how to do it, what to do and what not to do, how far past factory specs i can push it beyond and if my mother board with withstand it.. Also i have a follow up question I notice that the system summery stes that i have 1.57GB Avilible physical memory but i have 2.50 GB Installed physical memory. is there any way to overclock the RAM as well? SPECS: OS Name Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Version 6.1.7600 Build 7600 Other OS Description Not Available OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation System Name FASTCAR123-PC System Manufacturer Dell Inc. System Model Dimension 8400 System Type X86-based PC Processor Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz, 2992 Mhz, 1 Core(s), 1 Logical Processor(s) BIOS Version/Date Dell Inc. A09, 7/7/2006 SMBIOS Version 2.3 Windows Directory C:\Windows System Directory C:\Windows\system32 Boot Device \Device\HarddiskVolume1 Locale United States Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "6.1.7600.16385" User Name fastcar123-PC\fastcar123 Time Zone Eastern Standard Time Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 2.50 GB Total Physical Memory 2.50 GB Available Physical Memory 1.57 GB Total Virtual Memory 4.99 GB Available Virtual Memory 3.57 GB Page File Space 2.50 GB Page File C:\pagefile.sys
Question by fastcar123 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have an older computer, and i was thinking instead of buying a new fan and installing as an out-take, what if i just reverse the one fan i have to pull air out, instead of running two fans.. would this cause overheating or any other problems, or would it provide better airflow in a "vacuum" effect for the computer. i only have the one fan in it right now.
Question by bradburyk 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I have a pool pump. it seems a bit loud especially to the neighbors. I tried to buy some foam and 'for sale' signs, glued them together and wrapped them around the pump but it's still too loud, and I'm worried about overheating the pump/motor because of the wrapping of the motor/pump. Is there some way to build a sound cancellation system for this for say a hundred bucks that will run outside?
Question by kishjeff 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
The output voltage of boost converter was set at 14.5v [no load] When i turn on the input power supply the output of the boost converter read 12.4v the battery's voltage. If i tried to increase the output voltage of boost converter using the potentiometer, the output never changed. If the battery load is removed the boost converter showed the voltage increase.
Question by HarishR56 8 months ago
Is there a way to hook this up with resistors or some other way? to keep my battery from overheating?
Question by ERNDI 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
i am using an op amp 741 for this circuit, and a thermistor with P T C .plz tell me if this circuit would work in the real life and please mark the thermistor and resistance for it, that which one should i use.... the purpose of this circuit is to ON a led and a buzzer(not in the diagram i will get to it) when the system starts to get heat up (for more than 50 degree C) and the user will known thats he should On the extra fans..plz plz indicate for any problems and advancements.
Question by pizzadox747 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I hand soldered some surface mount LEDs and most of them seem broken now. I assume I overheated them. However, I`ve soldered lots of other kinds of surface mount LEDs with no problems, even really small ones were fine. The problem was with some warm white (yellowy white) LEDs. I removed some of them to check for a soldering error and they still won`t light up when I test them so I guess they are really broken. This is a bummer because I paid over 100 yen a piece for them. Do you think I overheated these LEDs when I soldered them? How can I avoid this problem in the future? Why did this only happen with this particular kind of surface mount LED?
Question by snotty 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Over in Brooklyn, some overheated and dedicated folks have turned some dumpsters into pools for their very own urban pool party. Not too shabby for a budget of a few thousand bucks. I wonder if they can connect them together to get a proper bit of space to swim in.via Treehugger
Topic by fungus amungus 9 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
how do i safely remove and repair the 12 volt converter in my rv. both posts are very loose, and overheating a little. ( 100 degrees to touch. ) i need to remove both threaded posts with out getting zapped and replace/resolder the connections. can you help ? thanks!
Topic by redwoodschef 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
After applying the X-clamp fix (Just like the tutorial) comming to the part of overheating the Xbox. The 3 lights wont change in 2 lights (i'm running it over a hour now). Whats the solution?
Question by Your360 9 years ago
Hello guys, I'm pretty new to LED work and this might seem like a really round about process to how I did this but I'm going to explain the whole thing and hopefully find a solution to my problem! First off I bought these Fairy Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MD1RQ6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc;=1 I bought them to put into rave fluffies (that I hope to sell at some point) I've attached photos below of what they look like if people didn't know. I bought them because of the small battery pack so they could sit nicely along the legs and not bother anyone and, because they're rainbow and do a beautiful blinking pattern. The problem with them is that the battery packs completely sucked. Big time. They would work for about a minute and then start loosing higher voltage colors and then about at the 3 minute mark they would just be totally red. I figured they were crappy batter packs so I decided to mess with it. Rave Fluffies: http://ep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-11088499841243/striped-fluffies-monster-blue-pink-purple-white-24.jpg The fairy lights themselves were to short so, I decided to solder to strands together, then I trashed the battery pack that came with them and replaced it with a 9v batter pack adapter. I tested it out on some 9 volt batteries laying around the house and it looked magical. All of the colors stayed much longer and it was beautiful! So, today I went out and bought some new batteries they're Energizer Max 9V. I put the fluffies on and put them in and I wanted to test how long they would last. By about 5 minutes I felt a burning against my leg where the battery was. I took the fluffies off fast and discounted the battery. It was extremely hot. Almost to hot to touch and it left two nice low key red burns on my legs. I don't understand what caused this when the other batteries were fine? I also used a 9V energizer battery before. But, the only difference is I'm not sure how much power was left in it while these were fully powered! I hoping to find a solution to this and hopefully it's an easy fix! Also, Bonus points to whoever can send me in the right direction to buy fairy lights like these. Rainbow, blinking, with a small battery pack that doesn't poop out on me fast. I would prefer not to do this much work or something I intend to sell but, if that's what has to happen it's not the end of the world. Thank you so much!! Much love, Meisha
Question by MeganB126 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I recently bought a 19 inch LCD monitor for 40 bucks (used). It works perfectly for about half an hour (i havn't timed it) and then the screen just goes blank. If i turn it off and then back on it works for a couple of seconds then it turns back off. If I let it be for a while (like an hour or just when I'm not using my computer) it works fine for another half hour. Is this an overheating problem or what is going on?
Topic by guyfrom7up 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I'm working on a project I have a 9v battery and breadboard hook up to a Nichrome Wire. But for some reason when I send power straight to the wire the battery overheat. Then when I try to put a resistor between the wire and the battery I have no power reading after the negative power hit go through the resistor. Please help it will be greatly appreciated!!!
Question by Kjack_95 3 years ago | last reply 11 months ago
I found that i use older and slower computers more than i do my desktop modded to be fast, it's the fastest computer in my house! still for some reason i keep using an overheating, amd 366 laptop to play dos games and a pentium 4 laptop with 256mb of ram, instead of my desktop with a celeron D 3.23ghz (overclocked of course, how else?) and 1gb of ram. why? lol.
Topic by Yerboogieman 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I was cutting an iron L rod, and the cutting disk began to produce red sparks, instead of these habitual bright orange. Simultaneously, its cutting effectiveness was down dramatically. I searched in the web, and learned that this phenomen is named crystallization,and it is due to overheating. Now, my disk is a new one, I want not throw it to the waste. Any idea how to get it back? THANKS IN ADVANCE!
Topic by rimar2000 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Every time I turn on my Nintendo Gamecube it always works fine for 2 minutes then stops reading any disk I put in it so I was wondering if anyone knows how to fix it. I think it might be because it is overheating but I am not sure.
Question by qazwsx755 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi there, some people have watercooled there xbox externally but I'm after cooling mine internally (pump, rad, fan etc) so to keep it as an all in one package. Has anyone done this to their xbox 360 as I would love to watercool mine. Can anyone offer a solution as I really want to do this to permanently stop my 360 from overheating. Shaun.
Question by baggychimp 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I don't have an Xbox 360, and I probably never will, but for anybody who owns one, their worst nightmare is the Red Ring of Death. There are several causes for the Red Ring of Death, this forum topic is here for people to post how they have managed to avoid it and other 360 problems, including overheating. If I get enough ideas, I may post a Collaboration. If you post an idea, make it as detailed as possible, and if you can, with pictures.
Topic by Aeshir 11 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hi, I have two disconnected red wires on the left side cups that need reconnecting to the, -L & 3V on the board which you can see on the image below. My question as a multi-meter novice, how do a test to know which red wire goes to which point? Also is there any danger of overheating the board on so small solder points? Any help much appreciated
Topic by Optical10 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hi! I have no idea whether this is the right place to post this topic, but it does say 'burning questions' and that's what this is, so here goes. :-) I've had this idea for a kind of pinhole lense slide projector. The (very basic) diagram is pretty self explanatory, and I was wondering if anyone's tried/heard of anything like this, and whether it could work? Do you think a 100 LED torch would be bright enough? Also, if I'm right in thinking that LEDs don't get hot, there shouldn't be a risk of overheating/fire should there? Thanks! Looking forward to hearing what you think! :-)
Topic by MissPennyFarthing 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hi, my laptop is overheating because the fan isnt fast enough. My idea is to build a small voltage booster to increase the fan voltage a small bit. It will be overvolting the 5v fan but i dont mind. For example, when idleing, fan voltage is at 3.5v and at full load its at 5v and i would like it to be 1-2v higher at both points WHILE still maintaining the variable control (spinning faster and slower as needed) Problem is, im pretty good at soldering but i dont know how to make one. Could anyone help with this project Thanks
Topic by ttg tricksh0tzz 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
My pioneer receiver SX828 will blow the fuse on the rear of the unit 3A-125volt. as soon as i turn it on > it turns on for about a second then the fuse blows!! there is no burnt smells from inside. it is very clean and dust free inside. i know these older receivers run hot, but there is no odors that tell me that something has overheated or blown. (to the best of my knowledge) !! i know this is a very technical question and lots of things to check but i thought i would ask !! thanks, brian.... email@example.com
Question by briaco 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Thinking about overclocking some of my 18v power tools. I can adapt 24v battery packs to fit into them. Obvious advantage is they will run faster and should run longer with the extra power. My only concern is can this damage the motors? I think the only real risk is overheating but it I take steps to avoid that would everything else be okay? I've also considered hooking two battery packs together to run an 18v saw at 36 volts.
Question by etcmn 7 years ago | last reply 6 months ago
We've had our second rice cooker fail (this Black&Decker; rice cooker replaced an Aroma rice cooker which failed). What happened was it started to stink and didn't cook well, then finally the thermal cutoff inside failed. I've already had the exact same problem with the previous Aroma rice cooker... let me explain: In that Aroma Rice cooker which failed, I replaced the thermal cutoff with a direct connection and it worked! Well sort of... It actually overheated all the time, but didn't heat the food very much. Inside the connections I had made were melting/burning and it was always stinking, so of course we did not use it anymore. So this means there was something else wrong with that rice cooker. It overheated for a reason, and removing the overheat protection caused it to overheat. Rice cookers are very simple, so I have no idea what the problem was (and is). The only suspect is some weird rectangular thing i've seen, where two wires go in; one to the switch and the other to the element. So with this Black & Decker rice cooker, which has been working for quite a while (maybe a year or two), it finally failed by overheating the same way the old rice cooker did when I removed the overheat protection. It stunk a bit and didn't heat up well, then the thermal cutoff broke and it became dead. Replacing the thermal cutoff won't fix it because it would just overheat again. So what is wrong? Is it that rectangular thing? I opened the rectangular thing... inside there is a sandwich of materials and a wire... The first layer is the top metal cover which covers it up (and also always becomes rusty). The second layer is a thin papery insulator (or I think it is). The third layer is the same kind of insulator, but cut and it has a thin wire wrapped around it connected to the two wires going to the whole thing. The fourth layer is another insulator like the second. And the fifth layer is the metal frame which all the previous layers sits into, and the frame is bent around them to hold it together, and it has a screwhole to attach it. What is this thing? Is it some resistor? Does it increase resistance as it heats up, to regulate the temperature? And could this be what failed?
Question by poiihy 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
HI, I want to make a 12VDC 2Amp water heater which can heat 2 3 liters of water easily.Actually i havent be able to find any perfect element for that once i torn my old soldering iron and got an element from that and i cut it into half and tried it but didnt get the result.Can anybody help me to make a perfect one.I m not got in electronics and stuff so kindly suggest me which stuff will be use to protect my wire from overheating or short circuts.Waiting for answers!] Regards, Muneeb
Question by muneebakhtar 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Hi, I have two disconnected red wires on the left side cups that need reconnecting to the L- & 3V on the board which you can see on the image below. https://www.dropbox.com/s/pisf15rkthlnlyk/DSC02001.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/9e97veutva4gpaj/DSC02000.JPG https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...M_vkdGusRCa8oc https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...M_vkdGusRCa8oc My question as a multi-meter novice, how do a test to know which red wire goes to which point? Also is there any danger of overheating the board on so small solder points? Any help much appreciated
Topic by Optical10 6 years ago
Look at the video attached. Those of you working in biology/chemistry research labs may be familiar with these. One of them is a rotator (with small tubes fixed in the clips) and the other one is an orbital shaker (well, technically they're both sold as rotators). Can anyone please help me with building either or both of these. I have never done a DIY project before and would love to start with these. It doesn't have to be exact same design. It could be something very simple but functionally similar. It should be able to run for extended periods without overheating (24-48 hours). Also, I would prefer something that can run in a cold room (4 degree Celsius) but I can use anything right now. http://youtu.be/gQvpz3M-WjE Much thanks in advance!
Topic by mranjan2 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I have a dual hbridge but its overheating im a beginner in electronics and i dont know how to fix this i have attach a schematics of my circuit...i used 4 npn transistor (TIP120) 2 to control the Hbridge and 2 others that form the hbridge , 2 pnp transistors (TIP42G) , (4) 1Megaohms resistors. TIP transistors are able to take up to 150 degrees...i heard of heat sink and voltage follower to help with the overheat . but i cant make it work. is my circuit correct..if yes how can i get rid of the heat?
Question by souandji 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
So ive built a simple server, with enough already in it to keep air levels down and keep overheating a slight risk. But its just a little to loud to put in the bedroom, and a little to ugly to put anywhere really. So I decided on the Closet. But I'm not sure on how to keep it cool in the closet... I was thinking, another DIY Airconditioner unit, but im not sure if that would exactly work. It doesnt get that hot in the Closet, I just need something to generally keep the server cool. It wont have a monitor or anything, and will be running 24/7. All air ports will be kept open. PS. It isnt a big server, just a little home networking server to share movies and junk on.
Question by darkclaw42 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
hey guys, my canola oil submerged pc system seems to shut down every time i use OCCT to get my system really working hard, i can tell you whats not the problem, Fresh Os (since last month), Not Overheating definitly. theres nothing wrong with my pc that i found so far other then running OCCT maybe i should try another stress test software? Anyone wondering what the deuce a "Canola oil subermeged pc" is check here: www.instructables.com/id/Oil-Submerged-Fish-Tank-Pc/ also for system spec if your wondering
Topic by IIwootII 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago