Are there any oxidizer that I have in my house that can be used for a flammable substance. Seriously, not Kno3 or sodium chlorate. Something I have in my house!
Question by waterrocketexpert | last reply
Ok, i have been looking through some instructables and everyyone is going to great lengths to get a litle bit of rust by electrolysis). however, burning some steel wool would produce iron oxide? i think i'm right? lol, this would produce black iron oxide is that ok to make thermite with?
Topic by andy60 | last reply
I've been helping to come up with a small engine that runs on methane extracted from compost. One issue that I've run into is the fact that completely utilizing the gas isn't very easy, and some can escape the exhaust. I've heard of catalysts that help to completely burn the stuff, but I'm completely unsure of how to get them for such a small project, what price they'd be, or how to make them. Does anybody have any tips?
Question by DIY Emilio | last reply
Hi, I'm making a flashbang that's part Thermate using Tetranitrate's Thermite Instructable* and I would like to know if I would be able to replace the iron oxide in the mixture with calcium oxide for a bit of added white. The flashbang is inteaded to be (temporarily) blinding. Thanks, BlueGasMask * www.instructables.com/id/Thermite/
Question by BlueGasMask | last reply
I am making some iron oxide using the method with the 9 volt and nail in saltwater. Im a little confused however in all the thermite instuctables it says that the wire that bubbles the most is the positve wire. When i connect the (what the battery says) is positive to the nails and insert the negative into the water it seems like more bubbles are kinda comming off the stripped negative wire. The water is turning a little green(update-its not to green anymore) There is brown stuff floating at the top of the water.which doesnt burn my skin and smells like metal. I am using copper wire. Any suggestions?
Question by The Red Button | last reply
So I'm experimenting with indium-tin oxide glass trying to make a solar panel. I have one sheet I took out from an old touch screen device, and I'd like another piece to fit right over it. I understand that it's also used in display screens. I'd like to know if anyone knows of a method to remove everything from the screen and be left with just the glass?
Question by tylervitale
I've been smelting for quite a while and now want to make some flash powder, all tutorials use a blender or rock tumbler and aluminum foil, which I do not have(I have aluminum ingots, much more aluminum then just foil.) Can I smelt it out thin and file it finely?Or is there a better way
Question by tom10122 | last reply
I saw the ipod charger using lemons here: http://www.thenakedscientists.com/HTML/content/kitchenscience/exp/charging-ipods-with-lemons/ And I began to wonder what would happen if you sandwiched a bunch of floppy disks together and put them in a solution... Hook them up in series and well what? Could each one be used as a tiny cel in a battery? I am going to look around, I'm sure my colleagues are still hoarding floppies. I think I'm gonna need a lot of alligator clips on this one...Must be something a sufficient number of floppies can still do for us.
Topic by flashj | last reply
I know that pool chlorine is an oxidizer,it is easily found but I want to know what kind of materials will it oxidize?Sugar?
Question by bylerfamily | last reply
Would potassium nitrate work as a oxidizer in a liquid fuel rocket?
Topic by WastelandWilly | last reply
Would potassium nitrate work as a oxidizer in a liquid fuel rocket?
Question by WastelandWilly | last reply
Having seen mythbusters, i am curious how the stuff is made. during my internet searches, it is made by heating ammonium nitrate to ~250C. from watching the episode, i know there is more to it than just that. I am under the influence that everything else that was done was purifying the stuff. i am mainly curious about how this is done and whether or not the stuff is toxic, dangerous, addictive, or anything else of the sort that would make it bad to breathe. I will be honest, if the stuff is not dangerous, i will slowly and carefully attempt to make the stuff and maybe breathe a little of it in the curiosity of what it does. for those who don't know, nitrous oxide is also called "laughing gas."
Question by seansippo | last reply
Question by aditya jain 999 | last reply
I'm trying to make black iron oxide FE304 and using the method of electrolysis i'm using salt water and two washers for the electrodes, however my oxide instead comes out as dark green?It is magnetic, but only with a strong magnet.Is there any way of making black iron oxide with this method?thanks? I should not i am trying to make ferrofluid.
Question by mrn | last reply
From what I know, the magnetron in a microwave has some beryllium oxide on part of it, which is highly poisonous. I'm pretty sure the magnetron I dealt with had some (it was a pinkish-purple coating on the tube). I didn't do anything to it, but I think some of it may have gotten accidentally scraped off with the screwdriver I was using to open up the magnetron. BeO is a carcinogen and can cause CBD. If some of it did indeed get scraped off (and I have no idea where it went, maybe into the air?), am I in danger of beryllium poisoning?
Question by jesch1234 | last reply
Vinegar + Bleach + Iron = Iron Oxide? Bleach + Iron = Iron Oxide? Vinegar + Iron = Iron Oxide? 12 volt energy + Iron = Iron Oxide? 12 volt Energy + Salt + Iron = Iron Oxide? Hydrogen peroxide + 12 volt Energy + Iron = Iron Oxide? Can someone clear me out? I am trying to make thermite but I have heard that you can make iron oxide using just bleach, however, there have been claims that bleach can actully acumule impurities which makes iron oxide impure which means that thermite will not have the same "performance". I found a 12 volt supply in my house and i put a steel inside of a glass, i put the negative and positive but i found no evidences of iron oxide. The only thing i accomplish was the glass full of green stuff in it.
Question by Peter5465 | last reply
Would regular clorox bleach in a container with a peice of iron over time create iron oxide?
Question by trf | last reply
hello, i extracted some lithium metal from some new lithium batteries i bought at a second hand shop really cheaply . ive extracted the metal from one, but now, after placing it under vegetable oil to store, then putting in water, the vegetable oil works too well seperating the lithium form the water, making small lithium combustion reactions very difficult and i really want to show my friends the marvels of lithium on water, so i want to know, is it safe to store lithium in methylated spirits, or some other hydrocarbon that will evaporate away really fast , and not inhibit the lithium's reaction with water, like canola oil does? clean lithium usually combusts when i put it in water , and the reaction is quite fast. but when i put oily lithium in water, the same does not happen, the reaction is slow, and no combustion occurs unless i use my jet lighter.
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
I would like to force oxidization in specific areas on a copper sheet. Possible?
Question by Art-ist | last reply
Topic by dazzer730 | last reply
In my instructable about making an aluminum ring, I made two aluminum rings, one for my girlfriend and one for myself. Mine is still fine; however, hers keeps turning black (oxidizing). I understand this is because she is a girl and her skin pH is different than mine (more basic); but I am curious if there are any techniques on how to prevent this from happening. The ring needs to be polished using aluminum cleaner every other week, but if there was a way to keep its mirror finish, that would be fantastic. Thank you!
Question by kreationism | last reply
Here's the site http://sparkbangbuzz.com/copper-oxide-te/copper-oxide-gen3.htm . i thought that i can use Copper(I) Oxide to make a Peltier Module. Peltiers are made up of semiconductor materials like bismuth telluride.
Question by bhipolito1 | last reply
Game bài đổi thưởng chuyên chở game đánh bài đổi thẻ cào chơi bài miễn phí. Game doi thuong miễn phí mới hot nhất chơi là thắng to . Cổng tổng hợp tin tức về game bài đổi thưởng không dấu là Game bai doi thuong hay nhất mới nhất ngày nay . Cùng chơi game đổi thưởng sở hữu nhiều phần quà hấp dẫn hấp dẫn nhất hiện giờ. đánh bài đổi thưởngTrải nghiệm cảm giác bắn cá ngay trên điện thoại, hệ thống cá đẹp và phong phú. Đồ họa game đẹp sẽ mang lại cho bạn cảm giác sống động như thật. phương pháp chơi phong phú, tham dự tự dưng minigame để thư giãn và nhận thêm quà. Thỏa thích chơi game, ko lo thiếu GOLD, đăng nhập nhận FREE GOLD mỗi ngày!!! Tính năng kết duyên , mời bạn bè cộng chơi, thách đấu với bạn bè. hỗ trợ đa nền móng trên các hệ quản lý Android, IOS, PC… Bảo mật trương mục tuyệt đối an toàn, giúp tài khoản của bạn không bao giờ bị hack hay lộ thông báo . giải đáp người chơi nhanh, nhiệt thành , nồng hậu . Còn số đông tính năng khác đang chờ bạn khám phá! Bạn đã sẵn sàng chinh phục đại dương chưa?Chơi game đánh bài đổi thưởng cũng chính là niềm vui và sự thú vị mang các khoảnh khắc tiêu khiển xuất sắc của bạn. Game bài online đổi thưởng chẳng thể thiếu bất gì ở đất nước nào. loại chơi bài đổi thưởng đẳng cấp nhất. Ko chơi tương đối phí. Tham dự Đánh bài đổi thưởng nhé. Chú ý game bài đổi thẻ cào cũng có đủ cho mọi nhu cầu. Đã chơi phải chơi game đổi thẻ mới máu. Game bài đổi thẻ cào uy tín tập hợn rất đầu đủ. Hi vọng sẽ mang đến đa dạng may mắn cho Anh chị . Anto Club là game bài tổng hợp mới xuất hiện chỉ cần khoảng gần đây , nhưng Anto Club cái tên đã nhắc lên rất nhiều, chậm tiến độ là game chất đáng chơi nhất trong thời điểm bây giờ và lâu dài sắp đến . bài đổi thưởng Game hay đẳng cấp trong khoảng nhà phát hành uy tín sẽ đem lại những trải nghiệm cực kì thú vị cho Cả nhà. Không chỉ là game bai mà còn sở hữu hài hòa cả chiếc game slot nổ hũ quay hũ đình đám nhất hiện nay . Chơi Anto Club bạn với thể cảm thấy hài lòng và chất lượng như thế nào, trong khoảng game thủ chơi bài giỏi, cho đến các quý khách bình thường đánh bài cho vui, thì Đó luôn là sự lựa chọn hàng đầu bởi vì. Giao diện Anto Club khôn xiết trẻ trung, đẹp long lanh rất nổi bật , nhưng ko gây chói hay hại mắt người chơi trong thời gian dài, rất thích hợp cho Anh chị em chơi lâu. Tốc độ xử lý game cực phải chăng , cực nhanh không gây giật lag và bị mất kết nối, chơi Anto Club mà ko sợ chết giả . đông đảo tính năng, kịch bản game hay kịch tính đảm bảo độ chất không game bài nào sánh bằng, Chất lượng và uy tín luôn đồng hành với nhau lúc nhà phát hành ra sản phẩm “Anto Club” người chơi hoàn toàn có thể tin tưởng và gắn bó trong khoảng thời gian dài có Anto Club trong bất kì cảnh ngộ nào. Game hay nhưng mà còn Chất như thế mà ko chuyển vận về chơi ngay thì phí lắm? Đúng vậy không nên để phí Cả nhà ạ, chơi game này không chỉ để giải trí mà còn để kiếm tiền thưởng nữa.Chơi game bài, game slot nổ hũ, bắn cá jackpot, đổi thưởng có nhẽ được hồ hết người chọn chơi để thư giãn nhất. game bài đổi thưởng Bởi lẽ đây là loại thể game dễ chơi nhất, được những nhà phát hành đương đại hóa từ trò chơi đánh bài dân gian. Sun Club hấp dẫn người chơi không chỉ bởi nội dung trong game hấp dẫn mà khi chơi game game thủ còn có cơ hội nhận được những giftcode, quà tặng trị giá cao . Phương thức nhận giftcode trực tuyến thuần tuý, chóng vánh cho phần lớn người chơi.
Question by tmonk11 | last reply
Forgive my english. I am looking foward to use a pc power supply to acelerate the process of oxidation. I want to make thermite for a science project and i want to make iron oxide. Can i use the cables (positive and negative) of the pc power supply to make iron oxide? Thank you
Question by Peter5465 | last reply
Does Indium tin oxide reflect inferred? and is it possible to coat glass with it? in Wikipedia, it mentions its transparent, and acts like a "medal-like" mirror. this seems promising, but can i coat a fuse like light bulb with it, so it will reflect the inferred radiation back to the filament, heating it up more? i idea is this will help make light bulbs more efficient.
Question by -max- | last reply
Chemistry question here. I wanted to play around with some nickel plating, and I started to follow a popular recipe that I saw on YouTube. It started with Nickel II Oxide, placed in a malt vinegar for a week to create a solution of Nickel Acetate that you could then use as a bath to plate things with Nickel. I purchased 100 grams of 99% grade Nickel II Oxide, and let it sit in 2L of vinegar for a long time. After 2 weeks there's no hint of the emerald green Nickel Acetate. So I purchased some glacial Acetic Acid, and added it to a liter of distilled water to make a 50% weight solution of Acetic Acid to make a stronger solution, and still a week later nothing green. Solution is in a clean glass vessel. A local chemist at work said it would be slow, but man, this is taking forever. What am I doing wrong, or what could I do different? I know Ni Acetate can be achieved with pure nickel and electricity in vinegar, but I really want to try to convert the nickel oxide.
Topic by monteypython
Question by pdxkeith | last reply
Question by grsnp-guy | last reply
Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)
Topic by Downunder35m
I hope you can help me here, my whole soldering iron tip is covered in oxides, except the very end of the tip, that part is fine. The oxides won't come off, I even tried to use the tip cleaner stuff, but that did not work, it only prevent the oxides from forming... :(
Topic by Plasmana | last reply
I am looking for a way of getting CuO (red oxide) over another cheap metal using less copper as possible
Question by alessiof76 | last reply
I have a soil moisture probe that is generally use for gardening projects. So I read some articles that tell about oxidation of this probes in a week. I wanna make soil moisture sensors that I can use it in my experiments and you know inexpensiveness is important rule of DIY :). I planned to use aluminium plates as resesitive soil moisture sensor but I have still some doubt that oxidation of aluminium affects to conductivity or not ? I will use the sensors for a year or at least 7-8 months. So I worry that couldn't measure soil moisture properly.
Question by JeoleX | last reply
I have bought 2 mosfets (irf z44v and irf 540) and the drain is live even when the gate is not connected to anything or 0v?
Question by 12V | last reply
I made some Iron oxide from using a car batterie charger and some salty water and i made some aluminium powder from putting aluminium foil in the blender for a while, I mixed it together and i used my blowtorch to ignite it but nothing happened can someone tell me why
Topic by dsl158 | last reply
I was probably using my dremel wrong, but my 932 bit has a coating of metal on it after I used it to enlarge a hole. (I ground using the side of the bit). How do I remove this coating of metal?
Question by alfonzo1955 | last reply
For those who have done the measurements for thermite.. I know you're supposed to measure the iron oxide and AL powder by weight but does anyone have the measurements like in teaspoons or whatever because I dont have a scale.. Thanks in advance for your answers.
Question by jules15 | last reply
So im still pretty new to electronics and obviously my projects involve soldering. But here's my problem, i go through tips too often. i dont use my soldering iron too much but my tips still oxidize all the time. I tin the tips when i use them but they still get oxidized. Although my iron is from radioshack, (i know not a quality iron) could that be the problem? or that my solder is lead-free? If anyone could tell me why my tips still get oxidized all the time that would be great, thanks in advance.
Question by texpert | last reply
i'm trying to make thermite i know every way possible but i don't know if you can make the proper rust for thermite using steel or any other metal i know thermite also consists of aluminum filings and yes i do have the materials to make them
Question by Airsoft 007 Sniper | last reply
OK, so I have this big water treatment plant around me and there is a huge pit where the soil is deep orange and filled with rust. I know its rust because the people who work there told me its rust. If you just touch it your fingers are orange. So I went down there with a plastic bag and gathered up some chunks of soil that were dry and orange. I was wondering how i could extract the iron oxide(rust) from it so there is no dirt in it and I have a pile of rust. I want to use it for thermite. Thanks alot!
Question by ostomesto | last reply
Making potassium ferrate iron sulfate and potassium nitrate (more powerful oxidizer than bleach) in an alkaline solution cant seen to extract the potassium ferrate crystals from the potassium hydroxide i did get it to turn pink so i know i have it potassium ferrate as this video shows http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUvdETUQPuo
Question by symboom | last reply
As in, how many mmHG would it be able to sustain consistently if there are no losses from the hose. I want to know since I want to substitute an expensive lab grade pump with something I already have if it can do the same job. I primarily intend to use it to filter water from an iron oxide powder (I want the oxide so I can try my hand at making some thermite).
Question by The Ideanator | last reply