Is there a good way to solder or just connect wires directly to traces on a one sided PCB?
Topic by Doug Costlow | last reply
I was wondering if anyone knows a cheap place to get some PCB boards printed? I used ExpressPCB to create the board (first thing I found on the computer at work) and it's giving me a .pcb file. I assume this file-type is pretty standard? I tried using their built in pricing software, but it seems a little pricey for small quantities. Any suggestions?
Topic by randofo | last reply
I have heard that tugsten carbide pcb drill bits are too fragile and will break if used with a hand drill. I dont want to buy a drill press due to the cost (unless i can find a small and cheap one)... so will a 1/16 drill bit be ok for pcb holes for standard through hole components? because that is the smallest drill bit size i have that successfully works with my hand drill... any personal experience, knowledge or advice to help me? and thanks
Question by raykholo | last reply
Why do modern PCBs always use straight tracks and 45-degree diagonal tracks? I know it is good practice and design all my boards to this standard, but is there a reason behind it other than it looks visually appealing. It appears only relatively modern boards took this into account, I was looking at some 1970's electronics and quite a lot of them have rounded tracks of no definite thickness.
Question by andy70707 | last reply
I transferred this circuit to a circuitboard, but it didnt work. So, I tried just taking an led and soldering it to a pcb, but when I touched both leads with a battery, nothing happened. I didnt not clip the leads, I knew the cathode and anode. I was worried that when I put the led on it, I burnt it out from the soldering heat. So I desoldered it, but when I tested it OFF the pcb, it worked. The traces it was connected to was NOT connected to anything else. Any circuit I try putting on a pcb never works, none of them. Even when I just tried soldering a buzzer on it and connecting it to a battery, it only worked when it was off of it. I cant figure out why, but I am really frustrated about this. Tell me if you need to know anything else.
Question by 101yummYYummy101
I wanted to start making PCBs. However, I read that because the chemicals dissolve the copper, you can't dump it down the sink or throw it away because it is "hazardous" and should be taken to hazardous waste disposal. I'm still in high school and can't really do that and/or my parents would think I'm doing something dangerous. Is there any other way to etch PCBs besides using chemicals, like a knife or something?
Question by 7654321 | last reply
Hi Guys, I happen to be stuck in a situation in which i need a pcb but only have a schematic and do not know how to make a pcb. So I was wondering if anyone ov er here could design me a pcb from a schematic (provided below). Help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Question by SA-DIY | last reply
Hi, I am looking to make one PCB with dimensions 7"x7". I know that this is rather large, but was wondering if anyone knew the cheapest place to have this made as long it is decent quality? Time is not an important factor. It will probably be 2 layers, 4 at most. I know about Sparkfun's BatchPCB service. Thanks for your help.
Question by Hammock Boy | last reply
To print out a pcb circuit you need magazine paper, a transparency or photo paper. Well I was just wondering if I can just take magazine paper out of a actual magazine if its a blank page and print right on to that and then iron that on to my pcb?
Question by Kante Tech | last reply
How do I prevent rust? Or should I just not worry about the rust? I am using single sided board etched with ferric chloride, if that matters. Also I need the copper to conduct "on the top", like if I put a multimeter on a trace it would still conduct. So I can't use something like a clear coat spray paint. AI
Question by JaredsProjects | last reply
Hi i need anyone that can help me with this diagram,i think its okay,at least thats how i have it in a breadboard and it works,basically its a 555 timer delay on (5secs) and then the buzzers beeps reallly fast,seems simple but one bad conection and it wont work when the pcb arrives,(it happened already,)the not conected pins seems crazy maybe but it works i have everything in breadboard,i hope someone can help me please thankss have a great day :)))
Topic by NelsonN2 | last reply
Yes i know there has been a question about this already... but im asking it again. Can you etch a pcb with bleach? I dont really want to go out and find ferric chloride or hydrochloric (muratic) acid :) I just wanted to know if this would work. Also pros and cons would be good too, if not possible i can find a place with the right chemicals.. :) Thanks!
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
Hi All Am new to this, I just build a set of LED bike lights (kinda ugly but they are the portotype..lol) and am in the middle of figuring out how to build the batteries. I am a bit confussed about the PCB, found this one on Ebay and it says it is a charger as well, so......... if I build a battery up with this board can I just charge it with any power source (I work with computers so have buckets of laptop chargers, as well as Li-ion batteries). I am now charging two batteries at a time and running the lights in a 8 battery case, only run for 2-2.5hrs so they are not going below 2.5v. Heres a pic of my EVIL lights. http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-Charger-4-Packs-3-7V-Li-ion-Li-Lithium-18650-Battery-Rechargeable-2-3A-/260855721168?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D2785617145070280447%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D260858719737%26
Question by vallka | last reply
Hi, I'm working on a project where I want to strip a 'roll up piano' down and take the rubber keyboard innards which feed into the electronic sound unit and get rid of the floppy rubber roll up piano keyboard and replace it with a standard PC qwerty keyboad. I got used to using a qwerty keyboard for playing tunes already and want tomake one that is stand alone that I don't need to connect to the PC to play music with. That means I need to take all the connections that you can see in the photos I uploaded and re connected each one to a key on the keyboard. First of all, I don't know if pressing the rubber key on the roll up keyboad 'completes a circuit' and therefore prompts the electronic unit at the end of it to play the sound or if it 'breaks the circuit'. These units have two flexible pcb sheets as you an see in the second photo so when the rubber key is pressed they touch (although they all seem to be pretty much touching anyway). In an old casio solid keyboard I have there is a hard pcb and the piano keys touch a small rubber disk (much like is what under qwerty keys) to the pcb. would it be better for me to take a razor and painstakingly slice up the flexible plastic which the pcb is printed on then lead them to the innards of the qwerty keyboard I'm going to modify or would it be better for me to just chop the flexible pcb off and use some kind of very thin coppe wire to feed dirctly into the unit and to the underside of the qwerty keys? Any guidence would be appreciated.
Topic by poita | last reply
Well I just realized over the past few weeks that I really need to start getting onto the PCB bandwagon and start manufacturing my own stuff... So... I need materials and instructions on how to make my own PCBs... I have copper boards already (sourcing them is not a problem...), and i am pretty good at designing boards in EAGLE (I find it fun), but I need a method of etching them.... I have tried many toner methods and they never work how I like, I always get some pretty big mistakes and etching them sucks... I have heard of photo resist methods, and it sounds wonderful because it has a pretty good accuracy and can go down to some pretty fine wiring... My only problem is that you have to get presensitized boards (Expensive!), as well as other chemicals... As for etching, I think I am fine, I have used a vinegar/salt/something combo and it works pretty well, just takes a while to etch.. I have some muratic acid but that stuff is nasty so I have never really tried that.. Anybody have any non-toner PCB creation process that is pretty inexpensive? (I am in high school and have a limited budget already...)
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
I know that copper is a better conductor than tin or aluminum. But one of my friends a few days ago told me that instead of etching his layout on copper, he used the bottom of an altoids tin. he said all he did was sand the bottom until there was no paint of the altoids can and then he etched his layout. (Chemical bath, toner, etc.) So my question is, Does anyone know how to etch custom layouts (toner layouts) on tin or aluminum? **I figure this could save people some money and time on some projects. :)
Topic by batboy61490 | last reply
Hey all- back with another dilemma. Whilst trying to make a PCB for the second time (first failed miserably), Im stuck on toner transfer. I printed my design out from eagle and laid it out, and Ironed it for about 2min on each side (mostly because the first time i tried i did it for about a minute and i only got about half the design on). When it cooled down i took it off and nothing got transferred. I got some residual lines from I think heat stress on the paper, but I was able to take them off. So naturally I tried again- but this time with a different method. I found some t-shirt transfer paper upstairs, and tried that. NEVER doing that again. I ended up having to sand my board down for like 5-7 min trying to get all the gunk off. Any ideas why my printer method doesnt work? Im using the same brand of photo paper as last time (Costco Kirkland brand), but a different printer- a canon instead of a brother. I have access to the brother printer, a hi quality photo printer (1200 dpi I believe), a dell laser printer, and the canon. I think I used the brother printer last time I tried (or possibly the photo printer- also a canon). Could that be the problem? Thanks in advance- Astroboy907 P.S I also have some transparency sheets if anyone has a method to get that to work.
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
Hi everyone. Ive just finished my little mill, and it works great, its ardunio based running grbl control software. I thought it would be cool to mill PCBs so I downloaded fritzing, designed a PCB and Im now stuck, as I need something to output an NC Gcode to the mill. Fritzing can output a few different formats, pdf, svg, and grber. I have got Vcarve but it doesn’t like fritzings pdfs, I can import grber file into grbl, but the scale is wrong and the trace looks like its full of errors. Can anyone recommend a PCB design package that is compatible with grbl?
Question by liquidhandwash | last reply
I'm giving away my prototype PCBs that I did not use. Those are fully functional, factory made PCBs. There are prototype version of Aurora 9x18, Aurora 18x18, Aurora 48 and more! Most of them are the same as the final version, or only slightly different, like using a different switch. The qualification is simple – give me/my site a mention and a link on your web site, or if you have made any of my designs, put up a project at instructables (with pictures or/and video). Let me know what you did by either leaving a comment here or email, and I will send you a PCB. (Free shipping within USA only – sorry, international shipping will cost $5.) Please note: Twitter and FaceBook posts are not eligible. Please go to www.theLEDart.com for details!
Topic by ledartist | last reply
I saw a schematic from http://makelifeeasy.yolasite.com/ this is the schematic design http://members.misty.com/don/linefl.gif and i tried to make a PCB layout and this is what i came up with the design http://img825.imageshack.us/i/circuitz.jpg/ is the layout correct? the blue line will likely be a jumper wire.. thanks in advance for the guidance.. =]
Question by gameshark888 | last reply
Question by legend4930 | last reply
Whats the best Laser Printer to buy to make pcbs using the toner transfer method ? alot of people seem to use HP but dont know what model to buy, is there a certain type of toner to use are they all the same please help
Question by welder030 | last reply
I was mad a lot of single sided pcb layouts with the toner transfer method. now i want to make some double sided pcb layouts, but i dunno how i can do it right, so that its 100% same position on every side.
Question by ninharp | last reply
Now that I have a new oscilloscope (rigol DS1054Z), and have learned a LOT about programming and electronics while down at NASA langley for a research program (semi-intern), I feel like I should start working on a real project (other than my quadcopter), and was thinking about making a nixie tube clock. I would like to make it from scratch of my own design as I feel one learned the most about electronics by not using other's designs. However, I do not have the resources or time to bother trying to etch my own PCB. I attempted that before and was not able to get usable results. What kind of costs am I looking at if I locate a relatively local company for the job? I hate calling people and companies, but I suppose that is still the most practical way to figure out what I need to do and place an order, I don't know. Economies of scale is a great thing, makes things in bulk production cheap! However, would the costs of ordering one or 2 PCBs be non-economical and/or non-practical? Should I consider many smaller projects and stuff to be created on a breakout board? I hate messy, sloppy protoboard, it is just nasty, though easy for non-high-density boards. however, I would love to hear the opinions of others for these things. When dealing with nixie tubes, are sockets for the 1N-14 avalible? A lot of the new old stocks seem to have very thin and long legs, almost as if they are meant for through hole soldering directly onto a PCB like capacitors and resistors. I would prefer a socketed tube to make replacing them quicker and easier.
Question by -max- | last reply
Question by Raji Nainar | last reply
I know there are many places online to buy boards for 2$ or less but shipping to Canada can be upwards of 8$. Anyone know a good place for Canadians to buy blanks. I imagine making your own blanks would be too difficult, hopefully someone can correct me on this. Thanks
Question by A_Sab | last reply
I'd reely like to have all the details....cuz im sick of not finding any1 to do my PCB's for me!
Question by Yashknowsbetter | last reply
Was walking in the city when i found this in a corner
Question by ARJOON | last reply
Question by nklharish1 | last reply
I am trying to install new capacitors on a PCB , I know which capacitors to replace from the capacitor side how do you find the pins on the reverse i see the code number but there are so many pins arounf this number im just not sure and its not on an outside edge either ie first in line. Can anyone suggest how to confirm the right pins to desolder.
Question by morgie | last reply
I need a circut board done- and I can't get it to work at home and I'm to cheap to fab them will someone do it?
Question by 16zzundel5 | last reply
I've made a dc drive circuit using bridge rectifier and 3 741IC op-amp circiut, but the problem is im getting 0-18v across the pot instead of 0-12v.. Canyone suggest how to rectify this problem ?
Question by sumantharisthus | last reply