How can i buy or make finely chopped glass to mix with plaster of paris to plug holes & cracks around the house to repel mice?
Question by askjerry.tv | last reply
They eat decon like candy and still run wild like they own my Trailer! We destroyed their nests in the storage room. Sticky glue traps work but get expensive since you can't really catch more than one unless they cross that spot at the same time. These mice are running wild like they own my house! what do I do?
Question by hippieroolz76 | last reply
Would it be possible to get a schematic and instructions to build a dog / cat/ rabbit and ground squirrel repeller ? One with a volume adjust would be nice, so they can go anywhere outside my yard. I do have outside AC plugs... However, a battery powered with AC adapter would be ideal !! ?Here in Arizona, I have numerous problems with these pests. They eat my fruit and vegetable plants, tear up my yard, and tunnel in areas they shouldn't, like under the house foundation.Help anyone ???
Question by BDLP
Well the local wild coyote is boldly walking up and down our Reno street at 2pm in the afternoon, sniffing at the neighborhood house dogs leg-lift corners and bushes. As a life rule, I figure "live and let live"... The bears and wild animals are moving into town because food is scarce in the mountains this year and our leaders admonish us for leaving garbage readily available and encouraging predation. BUT this afternoon there was some confrontation at the fenced pen our dog uses for his duty and our dog was afraid to go out and chose to leave a large pile in our computer closet which I boldly managed to step into with both feet when starting the computer after supper. Yes, I was prepping to do our monthly ledger but first I managed to drag brown foot prints over rugs through our bedroom to our bathroom. After a couple hours of cleaning the most foul smelling dog poop, the monthly bills and Febreze treatment of the wall to wall rugs, we had to use a leash and collar to get our naughty pet to step out to the high fenced dog pen and let him discover it was safe ! .... We watch preschool grand children and fear the situation. What to do ?? ... I could rig an IR light beam trip wire to cause a servo to rattle some cans to discourage coyote walkabout in my yard but hope someone has a better suggestion ?
Question by iceng | last reply
I've seen ads for pest control units that transmit some sort of signal that drives bugs &rodents away... friend had one & she didn't even get flies... but not sure which ones really work, and so expensive..... Would love to find a DIY Instructable on this! It would save money, the environment...etc...
Question by StarrsWife | last reply
Im young and trying to start vermiomposting at school and at home. i have to garantee all the adults that they wont have any problems with pests. it an be indoors or out doors. i get their support only when i have ways to prevent mice and other pests. i really want to do this because i know it makes soil faster and our school goes through a lot of scraps.
Question by daisypalacios | last reply
Question by enemigo | last reply
Question by dixieroper24 | last reply
Tried everything from dogs, fumes, water, repellants, & traps but back they come. It's driving me insane!
Question by Webwizzkid | last reply
I've seen evidence that I have a mouse in my car. I put poison in but I don't want ti to die in there & stink. Any sggestions?
Question | last reply
We have a ton of mosquitos in our neighborhood. I have been on the lookout for any kind of standing water, but can't find any. Since they don't seem to be going away, what can I do to get rid of them and take my yard back?
Question | last reply
I have a big crop of lemongrass i planted to chase off pests. i use parts of it for tea/herbs. i would like to process the fibery stalks to weave them for mats and/or kumihimo.
Question by hardlec | last reply
Fly paper doesnt work so well in my exp. funnel style trap works nice for wasps. but for flies? don't want somethin stinky (ideally) prefer somethin that doesnt take up counterspace. if there are -ibles already, review of which one(s) work best? for shed/ garage/ kitchen please/thanks
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
I am sick of the little pests, all doors & windows closed etc. all i want to do is sit out & have a relaxing beer occasionally & or BBQ without getting dive-bombed. Any body got any good ideas? P.S. i have a cat & veg patch so don't want to use poison powder.
Question by jonnypresley1 | last reply
Hey guys, it's late fall in my area. ladybugs are starting to come into the house for warmth. I know that they are beneficial, but the house is off limits. I'm thinking of making some kind of trap, but not sure what to use as bait. Thank you for your help
Question by admiral001 | last reply
Re-evaluation Note REV2010-01, Uncoupling of Fertilizer-Pesticide Combination Products for Lawn and Turf Uses 2 February 2010 HC Pub: 100037 ISBN: 978-1-100-14700-0 (print version) ISBN: 978-1-100-14701-7 (PDF version) Catalogue number: H113-5/2010-1E (print version) Catalogue number: H113-5/2010-1E-PDF (PDF version) Table of Contents 1.0 Purpose 2.0 Scope 3.0 Background 4.0 Regulatory decision 1.0 Purpose This document is to communicate to stakeholders the decision to uncouple fertilizer-pesticide combination products intended for lawn and turf uses. 2.0 Scope This regulatory action is focussed on the lawn and turf uses of fertilizer-pesticide combination products on the following types of turf: Lawn turf planted in or around residences, as well as public and commercial buildings including schools and cemeteries Sports and recreational turf such as turf in parks, playgrounds, golf courses, zoos, botanical gardens and athletic playing fields These types of turf are collectively known as fine turf, which may be maintained by homeowners or by professional applicators. This regulatory action does not include agricultural uses of fertilizer-pesticide combination products (turf farms), or products that have a single active material with both fertilizer and pesticidal properties. 3.0 Background Health Canada's Pest Management Regulatory Agency (PMRA) regulates pesticides under the Pest Control Products Act including those intended for lawn and turf uses. All pesticide products that are registered for use and sale in Canada have undergone rigorous health and environmental risk assessments including the pesticides present in fertilizer-pesticide combinations. Pesticides are often combined with fertilizers and sold as fertilizer-pesticide combination products, which are regulated by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency under the Fertilizers Act. When pesticides are combined with fertilizer such that the two components can only be applied at the same time and to the same area, the delivery mechanism for the pesticide component is brought into question. The very nature of combination products removes the flexibility of applying the pesticide as a spot application due to the need to accommodate the fertilizer, which is designed for broadcast application to the entire lawn surface at specified times of the year. Pesticides should only be used when and where there is a need. Broadcast applications of pesticides over the whole area are warranted only for severe pest infestations that are widespread. As pest infestations are typically patchy, spot applications of pesticides to those areas are most often sufficient to ensure adequate control in turf. To be effective, fertilizers and pesticides must each be applied at the appropriate timings, which typically do not coincide. Fertilizers are most often applied in spring or early summer, and/or in late summer or fall. A spring-applied lawn fertilizer results in increased tillering and rapid growth as temperatures increase, resulting in turf of increased density. A fall-applied lawn fertilizer also results in increased tillering and may result in increased winter hardiness. The majority of pesticides found in pesticide-fertilizer combination products are broadleaf herbicides belonging to the synthetic auxin group of chemicals. This group of chemicals only controls broadleaf weeds that have emerged and are actively growing in the lawn. These herbicides are not preventative in that they will only control weeds that have emerged and they do not prevent weeds from becoming established in the lawn. Further, this group of chemicals is not long lasting in that they do not persist in the soil to prevent future weed infestations. Combination products have been purchased for their convenience and ease of use as a two-in-one product to address separate lawn maintenance issues (for example, nutrient deficiency and various pest infestations) with a single application. However, these products are unsuitable as a delivery mechanism because they support broadcast application of the pesticide when this might not be warranted. Ultimately, fertilizer and pesticide applications should be based on need. Fertilizer should only be used if the turf will benefit from additional nutrients, and pesticide should only be used as a broadcast treatment if the pest densities are sufficiently high across the area to be treated. Targeted, well-timed liquid formulations of pesticides minimize pesticide use on the lawn and turf sites. 4.0 Regulatory decision Based on consultation with the provinces, experts and registrants, the PMRA has concluded that fertilizer-pesticide combination products for lawn and turf uses do not support the goals of best practices for pest management in turf. The PMRA, in conjunction with Canadian Food Inspection Agency, is taking action to uncouple the fertilizer-pesticide combination products intended for lawn and turf uses. A date of last sale of 31 December 2012 for fertilizer-pesticide combination products for lawn and turf uses has been set in order to allow for replacement products to be made available where needed. Should situations arise to warrant the use of a fertilizer-pesticide combination product for lawn and turf uses, the PMRA will assess combination products in terms of the timing of application and flexibility to apply as a spot treatment, as well as potential risks to human health and the environment. The PMRA decision to uncouple fertilizer-pesticide combination products is not based on the health or environmental risk assessments but rather the nature of combination products. Combination products remove the flexibility of applying spot applications of the pesticide due to the need to accommodate the fertilizer, which is designed for broadcast application to the entire lawn surface at specified times of the year. Turf fertilizers will continue to be available for broadcast application when needed. Pesticide-only products will also continue to be available for lawn care use to homeowners and commercial applicators for either spot treatments of localized weed patches or for use as broadcast applications to severely infested turf areas when warranted. Although more time consuming, pest control in lawn and turf can be achieved with careful pesticide spot applications that target only the pests that are present and separate broadcast applications of fertilizers. Now if only the US were to follow suit...
Topic by AngryRedhead | last reply
An alternative to "Death By Osmosis":My dad announced that he'd bought some new elastic for his catapult.What do you (being over 60) use your catapult for?Firing snails out of the garden.Right... And how far do you fire them?45o over the house across the street.Right...I did suggest he tag them with Tippex to make sure they weren't coming back...Still it's a new method of garden pest-control to meL
Topic by lemonie | last reply
A robot to navigate crawlspaces and show video. A boon to pest control or plumbing estimators. Rather than dry suiting and taking pictures (homeowners usually have at least three estimates), one could show live video of pipe leaks, festerring sewage, carpenter ants, termites, racoons or mice nesting. Perhaps the robot could carry a stun gun to drive out raccons. It has to be able to navigate the "wild" underside of homes or buildings and be waterproof. It could have an articulated arm to mount the camera and poke holes to search for termites.
Topic by gypsy_fly | last reply
So, I know you're not supposed to hunt rabbit during the summer, because of diseases and parasites, but what if they seem healthy? Like no fleas, bots, spots on the liver, etc. Yes I do want to eat them, and yes it is legal in this area because they are simply destroying my moms garden, and she asked if I could take care of it. However, since I don't want them to go to waste, I wanna eat em! Would they be safe to consume?
Question by LiquidLightning | last reply
I down loaded iyog and I stopped the service but now every time I start my laptop the repair screen pops up, I have tried everything I know of to rid my computer of this pest I have been trying for over a year to rid my laptop of this orphan program please help it is driving me to drink (not really) thanks for any help, dog of war
Question by dogofwar | last reply
Hello All, I need help in constructing a microwave based termite eradicator using parts from a old working Microwave oven. I understand that this is a project involving serious voltages and the effect of Microwaves is also there so without compromising safety how this can be done.The idea is to eliminate/ kill all termites which have affected some parts of cupboards (made out of Ply board), without having to remove or reconstruct the same. We create this gadget and keep the magnetron or the required electronics inside the cupboard near the affected areas and after due precautions, it is powered on from a long/safe distance, only for a few seconds, which I believe would be good enough for eliminating most termites. This method repeated at say 3 months would ensure termites would not attack the furniture ever. Eradicating a colony may not be possible in our area as there are large open spaces all around and exact location of their origination is difficult to locate. Beside repeated chemical treatments is not yielding the desired results. I have read at a number of website specializing on termite or pest removal about the microwave technology for the same. I hope we would have enough guidance here and this kinda project would help a lot of people getting rid of a huge menace in their living spaces. GSK
Question by GSKhurana | last reply
I am experimenting with voltages to destroy unwanted vines and other weeds in my grass and garden. I have an idea that a high voltage may be the answer. However I don"t relish using a 120 vac line out to the grass. So I would like to make a portable bat. operated one that can generate at least 5 kilovolts . The tip of the killing rod in my hand would be well insulated I presume. Is this type of high voltage available? How about use of a FASER gun? Is it legal? Ground Ivy is a pest weed. Hard to kill with chemicals.
Question by mistic | last reply
Have an apartment desk, with 3 foot railing around it but too much space between the "rungs" for my 3 year old. Anyone have experience circumventing this and/or screening in apartment decks? Anyone know of or have experience with pre-fabricated kits for this purpose? Essentially what I'm looking for is a way to barricade the railing so that my toddler and his toys can't slip between the rails. Also would like to screen in the porch to ward off pests and make it somewhat rain proof. Primary requirement is that the system must be removable with minimal damage to the existing infrastructure. Thanks for any help!
Question by davidchase01 | last reply
Due to recent disabilities, I want to do a raised (on a table) square foot garden this year. The major problem I will encounter are all of the friendly four footed furry friends that will come and visit it. Even though we are on several acres, our house is close enough to neighbors that noise makers are not possible and light does nothing to frighten then away. Nothing exotic out there, just some foxes, coyotes, raccoons, skunks, opossums, deer and several feral cats. Maybe a spray on mixture, even if it had to be applied every day...THANKS
Question | last reply
First let me tell you I have tried Moth Balls, fox urine, ultra sonic sending units, large rat traps. None of these things have gotten rid of the varmints. My research tells me that they , squirrels, have their young in the winter months, and you don't want to wall out a mother when she has young in the house. So I live in New England, and Winter is almost over, I need a true way to get them out and keep them out. HELP HELP HELP
Question | last reply
My yard has been taken hostage by flies. Literally. We cannot go outside because they have waged war on us! They DO NOT go away. To sit and relax would be divine...unfortunately it's impossible to sit outside without divebombed by swarms of them. We have tried so many things...no dog feces, keep the yard cut and trimmed, etc. Is there a homemade remedy or solution that we can put on the grass to kill the larvae and/ or deter these pesky pets?! Please help! Our summer is fading fast as we are held hostage in our home! Thank you ever so kindly!
Question by jlforrest74 | last reply
I have a cat that is a major part of our fam but now I have been attacked by fleas throughout my home. I have carpet and can feel them bite me and now can see a few of them on the cat. I want to find a home remedy to get my home back from these annoying pest. I have just sprayed the whole house with dish detergent and hope that it will work after I vacuum and repeat the process several times this weekend. I also plan to start giving him a little cider vinegar in his water tomorrow so wish me luck! How long will it take before I see some progress? Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated!
Topic by wifey3023 | last reply
You might have seen them on your favorite super market. When you enter the store you get hit by an air current from above. They help prevent pests from coming inside the store and also keep the cold/warm air inside. The price for one of these units is ridiculous!! at least for home applications. They range from $200 to $3,000 depending on the size and air current speed. I can visualize a wood box with the aperture on it for the air to come out but the insides would be a bit hard to find under $200. Maybe one of those standing fans? I don't plan on doing the instructable but it would be nice if someone would ^_^.
Question by cybershadow1 | last reply
Basically wife and I enjoy an evening hot tub dip, under a deciduous tree in a large garden. Then with robes on we drop the swim wear and hang it on a wall of our house to dry. The next morning my wife usually finds a resident earwig in her swim suit. I can only surmise the larger one piece suit holds more attractive moisture for the bug which would have to travel five feet up a newly painted lap siding wall to reach a pot-metal dual hook. There are no night lights. We live at 5500' in a desert climate and the garden is automatically watered morning and evening three times a week My wife wont let me put a 24 volt charged tape because we watch grand children daily. What to do ?
Question by iceng | last reply
Stockholm has a pest problem - thousands of rabbits (the descendants of escaped pets) have to be culled every year to stop them eating all the green spaces. The culled bunnies are frozen and stored. But the fate of these cute corpses is causing a stir amongst Stockholm residents. The rigid rabbits are collected by contractors, taken to the town of Karlskog, and burned to heat the town. Leo Virta, the Managing Director of Konvex - the plant's suppliers - told the BBC that Konvex has developed a new way of processing animal waste with funding from the EU as part of the Biomal project. He says that with this new method, raw animal material is crushed, ground and then pumped to a boiler where it is burned together with wood chips, peat or waste to produce renewable heat. "It is a good system as it solves the problem of dealing with animal waste and it provides heat," said Mr Virta. The Karlskogans don't mind what provides their heat, but in Stockholm, the urbanised residents think they're just too cute to burn... What do you think? Clever use of waste biomass, or cruelty to bunnies?
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
I just planted a small victory garden in my backyard. The yard is mostly a steep hill, and the patch shown is just about the largest, flattest part. I planted cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, artichokes, and spinach. A few days later, everything but the artichokes has been munched, and there are hoof-prints all over. So, knowing I don't want to build a huge fence for a small hobby-level garden, how should I keep deer out?I live in a fairly urban Oakland, CA neighborhood, so despite what one might think -- and what I might enjoy --, hunting the deer is out. I read that human hair works as a repellent, but I don't need a hair cut anytime soon. Among other ideas, Country Wisdom and Know How suggests that I put a 4-foot barrier of chicken wire on the ground around the garden. Apparently, deer don't like to walk on chicken wire. Has anyone tried putting chicken wire on the ground? They also suggest tying a dog up in the yard near the garden, but I'm more inclined to the chicken wire idea.
Question by ewilhelm | last reply
In Most European palaces and castles, it is common to find the ceilings decorated with ornate gilded woodwork and elaborate frescoes. In Brussels, Belgium, one particular hall in the Royal Palace has a very peculiar ceiling that is decorated with very strange items. The hall's ceiling, which has remained unfinished since 1909, was redecorated by the contemporary Belgian artist Jan Fabre. Fabre was inspired by Sternocera aequisignata, a type of jewel beetle of the Buprestidae family, which has a shimmering green iridescent shell. Fabre and 30 other diligent artist armed with a truck-full of beetle shells and glue, transformed the empty ceiling into one bejeweled with a sea of swirling and twinkling green. The team also went to work on the center chandelier in the hall, turning it from gilded gold to sparkling green. As one gazes up at the masterpiece from the floor, the whole mass of shells appears to move as the light reflects from different angles.Jan Fabre calls the the ceiling Heaven of Delight, as a reference to ''The Garden of Earthly Delights'' by early Netherlandish painter Hieronymus Bosch ( a personal favorite of mine). The green shells do indeed add a great amount of energy to the once bland and vacant hall. 1.6 million beetle shells were used. The beetles, which are wood-boring and are mostly considered a pest, appears abundantly in India, Thailand, and Vietnam. They are sometimes cooked and eaten, however their beautiful shells are discarded.LinkTranslated Original
Topic by Skyfinity | last reply
Hi, I am in no way an engineer. I'm trying to figure out what is an acceptable angle of deflection for a combination frame and hammock support. I'm thinking of using the the 80/20 t-slot beams. I want something that is portable, easily assembled/disassembled for moving, and lightweight. I'm go to make a box in our garden to protect our plants and when the corn is big enough, move the box around to make a hammock support(chicken wire around the bottom part to keep the critters out). It's basically a box 6 feet wide, 8 feet long and about 6 1/2 feet high. 4 beams to make a rectangle on the bottom, 4 uprights(1 in each corner), and another 4 beams on the top to make it more rigid. Chicken wire will keep the pests out but let me in to relax until the corn is too high and I move the frame. :) I'll put the hammock diagonally from pole to pole; total weight with me and the hammock is about 250 pounds. It will be anchored to the 2 uprights with 300lb chain at each end. Using the angle of deflection calculator from 8020.net, I found some beams that had 5mm deflection with 150lbs of dead weight in the center of the 6 foot span. I thought that even if I anchored the hammock to the center of the 6 foot span, that would be 300 pounds, more than the 250 max the hammock and I will be. And anchored in the center of the beam is the worst case scenario since I'll be anchored to the corners. But is that an acceptable amount of give in the beam? It's not meant to be permanent. I won't be in it more than 2 or 3 hours tops. Thanks!
Topic by BobR90 | last reply
So.. I like to read the Wikipedia. I don't know why. However, the other day I found a little blurb interesting. I was reading about alternative crops when I realized I was very familiar with a few of the plants on the list. I do a fair amount of Gardening here in Northern Utah, so I was somewhat surprised to find that one of the weeds which I've been pulling for 90% of my gardening experience is actually an extremely nutrious food crop. So this got me wondering, what other alternative food crops were out there. I tore through the wikipedia's list of underutilized crops, and was surprised by the number of plants that just aren't used. In many cases, I can't see a reason why such a crop isn't being used. Especially in areas where cultivation of said plant would encourage use of land that's not otherwise arable. As a for instance, I live very near the Great Salt Lake. The flood plain of the great salt lake is salt killed, however, There is a small plant that grows on the flood plain. I was told that it was edible, but it wasn't usually eaten due to both the texture and the flavour. So, I was surprised when I noticed it's scientific name on the underutilized crop list. Turns out it's a good oil seed crop, and oil is one of those things we need. The other thing I noticed is that alot of the crops were indigenious, rather then more commonly used cultivars. Indigenous crops that have evolved to survive in specific locations are, in many cases, better suited to survive in local areas then food crops developed through artificial selection. Utilizing indigenious plants helps mitigate the impact of agricultural activity on the environment (which is arguably more destructive then any other industrial activity), and helps to reduce pests of popular cultivars. So with that all said, I'm interested to see what other people have donee along this line of thinking. I've noticed an instructable or two that have done just this. I'm probably put one up at the end of this year. Mine will be focusing on Common Pigweed and White Goosefoot (scientific names are in the links to the wikipedia at the bottom). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Underutilized_crops http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amaranthus_palmeri http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_Goosefoot
Topic by Qcks | last reply
Although in many regions (wild) blackberries are considered to be a pest, in our gardens they can be delicious.I don't mean the wild variety here but the cultivated ones with big fruits and no thorns on them.And if you ever tried to successfully save money by just buying one and using cuttings from it for the new season you know the troubles....Creating cuttings from blackberries is quite easy if done the right way.But there is an ever easier and simpler way if you don't mind doing your pruning a bit later than usual.Once the harvest season is over and all berries are gone you see that the blackberries still keep growing before they finally start dropping their leaves.And if all went well then your blackberries have grown in long "snakes" supported on a vertical structure - like long bows.During a good season this bows get so long that they almost reach the ground at the end of the season.All you have to do it to free your snkes so you can places their ends into the ground, preferably out to the side so you can start a new row of blackberries with enough space between them.Use some soft cord and weights to keep the ends in the ground and fill the hole.Only water once when done otherwise let nature take care of things.In a very dry climate or season you might want to water a bit once a week though.When leaves start to drop in big numbers cut the above ground bits off with about 10 to 15cm left standing.Prune the big ones as you always do to get them ready for the next season.And when the next season starts you will see that most of your little "cuttings" take off like mad.They had the mother plant until it was time to go dormant, so no extra energy was required to stop a dying cutting from going dry.The end of the plant realised it is under ground and for that reason it is time to grow roots.Then suddenly it is time to hibernate and all energy is left in the remains, ready for use in the next spring.It is no problem to get over 15 new plants from a single one this way for the next season.It also works quite well fo roses.Although here you might need to create a podest or similar to place pot on.And the season for it is different too ;)It all starts with your pruning at thend of the season.All parts that did not produce flowers, those "wild" stems need to be fully removed.Those who produced good are cut back so you are left with 3 to 5 "eyes" - these tiny pimple where the new shoots come out.Pay attention to their location as it determines the direction of the new shoots ;)Don't have too many facing inwards.When the rose starts growing again in spring you should prepare your stand for the pot.The new shoots are quite flexible and can be directed to grow where you need them for the pot by using bonsai tape or wire - just be gently with them!Once long enough that the end can be placed about 5cm deep into your pot with good potting mix or the good soil from your garden:Place the pot so that the end shoot is held in the soilwithout force - if in doubt let the shoot grow a bit longer and form it donwards with wire.You want to bury it only when there is new growth going out if it but not of the end currently only has the leaf(s) showing.These fresh end shoots should point downwards into the soil.Cover it all and keep the soild moist at all times but not soaking wet.It really helps to have the pot shaded.You can use small seedling pots and check for roots a few weeks later or just wait till the end of the season.Either way a root should form in the pot and once strong enough you only have to wait and look out for eyes forming on the stem.If the do you can cut the stem so you have enough eyes on the potted stem.Be aware though that this will only result in a strong and healthy rose if the mother plant is not a hybridised clone.For the later it is best to transplant and eye onto a donor bush or wild rose.
Topic by Downunder35m
I recently had to move house and within two weeks of settling in my cats got attacked by fleas while outside. All the years they had not a single tick or flea so I did not pay too much attention until I spotted the first flea. Needless to say that once you spot one there are many hiding already... From past experience with my dog I did not trust the over the counter flea collars and decided to go to my vet. They recommended Frontline for the treatment, plus a flea bomb to treat the house and washing everything the cats like to sleep on. Came to just under $100AU - ouch... Mind you I have hardwood floors here, so I was quite confident the bomb would could kill all what might remain inside. The cats were kept indoors too to prevent new fleas finding them outside. Well, after two weeks of daily combing for fleas the problem did not get better - it got worse! Seemed they were having parties on my cats. Back to the vet to complain I was told it might take a bit longer to show the desired results. Hmmm, treatment every 4 weeks and after 2 weeks nothing happened?? On the way out an old couple with their two maltesers stopped me and said that they already gave up on Frontline and most other products as the fleas around here are resistant to the meds. They now only use Neem oil that is massaged into the skin and fur of their dogs. Sadly my cats would rather scratch me into meat strips then to let get near them with the oil. So I did some asking around with my friend Google and the story of the old folks seems to be confirmed for most parts of Australia anyway. Most flea collars and over the counter meds might still work to keep fleas away but not anymore to actually treat your pet once infected with more than a handful of fleas. And yes, I am aware of those sprays claiming to kill all fleas instantly but I also know cats like to clean themself and don't like the idea of them liking the spray off the fur. After some more digging I found out that Selamectin is still working and that works in several ways to control fleas and other parasites like heartworm and such. You can look it up on Wiki if you like. What I like about this med is the fact that fleas are really filthy things eating their own excremts. Since the poo is usually everywhere in the fur and hard to remove it makes the killing even easier. Plus in all spots where fles might be hiding but have noone to feed on they still eat their own ..... and die off. My vet only had Revolution available at a price of almost 25 bucks per single dose - no thank you... Instead I decided to bite the bullet and try one of the many online pharmacies for pet supplies. Here I found "Stronghold" containing the above Selamectin similar to Revolution in concetration (bit higher though)... The website stated to expect about 4 weeks for the delivery being xmas season and so on. For me that meant cleaning everything again, using a normal insect bomb again and a last round of washing the cats caves and other items of interest. To my surprise the parcal arrived ten days later, bit banged up but contents still fine. All up the time for the Frontline was over anyway and instead of paying again for a useless treatment I gave the new stuff a try. This was now two weeks ago and here is my summary: Unlike treating with Frontline my cats actually tolerated the application without going mad, the smell is much more pleasant. Did not expect anything to happen the first day and it takes a while to dry off the furr anyway so they got a day free of the dreaded flea comb. During the first week there was little to no indication of anything good happening but it was to be expected as it takes up to 10 days to build up in the blood as well. On day eight I had my first dead fleas in the comb and from here it got more every day. Mostly the adults while the smaller ones still seemd to be active. To the end of the second week I also got dead young ones in the comb indicating the promised break preventing them to grow up actually works. I will still monitor the process and keep up with monthly treatments during the summer. So you might see an update or two later on. How to properly treat your pet and enviroment once you noticed a flea problem. First: Don't panic! If you have carpet or your pets literally go everyhwere like your bed, sofa and so on you want to combine your effords to avoid a fresh infestation from hatching eggs. Ask around or check online if standard meds still have the desired effect in your local area, if not go for a product that does instead of wasting time and money! Spray treatments or insect bombs can work quite well to control what's left behind by your pet but you need to be aware of the life cycle of the pest in question. For most, including fleas, this means a single treatment might not do the trick. See it that way: You treat the animal, clean everything you can and also kill whatever crawls around. But there is still unhatched eggs and living fleas on your pet. So you need or better should repeat the house treatment 8 to 14 days later to get rid of whatever hatched. Garden beds or just your lawn can be a source of problem too, here Neem oil seems to do the trick quite well but you can use other products from your local garden center as well. What kills most harmful insects out there on your plant will do similar on fleas. To get the timing of all treatments right you might want to start on your pet and use a good, normal clean for the house and fabrics. Once you see the fleas go dead on your pet treat the rest. This way you can be sure all fles that make it onto your pet won't survive or produce more viable eggs. Now use whatever suits you to remove or kill the eggs, larvea and crawling fleas around you. If done right and the meds take care of eggs too you won't have any further problems. Regular checks should be done anyway and if you already know fleas are a problem in your area then please continue the treatment on your pet until the season is over. Things you might want to know to calm down a bit and prevent panic: Fleas on your pet are usually only biting them but not you. This does not mean they won't try if you have hundreds of them crawling in your bed. But they won't stay on you and it takes a good amount of bad luck to get bitten instead of just noticing something crawls on you. So the risk of getting some weird desease from an accidental flea bit is slim. When to be careful with a flea infestation? If you are allergic to their excrements or have an otherwise compromised immune system the dust containing flea excrements can cause reactions. So if your pets got you a lot of fleas and you notice breathing problems, red skin areas or itching you should contact your GP to discuss the problem and possible options. Short term a normal paper face mask like used for dust will help, same for anti-histamines if it is an allergic reaction. The best cause of action is to use a vacuum cleaner with HEPA filter on everything that might get into contact with your pets. A standard vacuum cleaner will pick up the extremets too but just blows it out the other end making things far worse.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply