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How can I glue plexiglas?

Question by fastrack777    |  last reply


Large Scale Plexiglas Photo Display

Hundreds of picture frames in a family room is overwhelming and cluttered.  Instead of having an individual picture frame for each photograph you want to show off, display all of your pictures on your wall with this plexiglas photo display found on anh-minh.  You could have a few smaller versions of this in one room.  Keep it tasteful by being conscious about where you place the displays and be sure to not clutter your walls!

Topic by Carleyy    |  last reply


How to remove static electricity from plastic surface?

I've put PlexiGlas (acrylic plastic, I think) in my roof in my bathroom. The surface is high- gloss black and should look great. However, these sheets are huge and there is a protective film on the surface which has to be removed and when I do that, the plastic will be loaded with static electricity, which will gather dust. (When I removed the protective film on the back side of the plastic, I saw this result and it isn't good. Is there a way to eliminate/reduce the static electricity before/during/after I remove the protective film? -Because of the black surface, I'm afraid that waterstains and cleaning- solvents might leave stripes/spots that won't look good...

Question by Slugg0    |  last reply


What is the best way to cut Plexiglas or Lexan? Answered

I am building a solar panel, and I need to cut a sheet of Lexan. I have scoured the internet and have come up with a bunch of ways ranging from scoring it to using a jigsaw. None of these seem to yield a good result and a clean edge (even after sanding). I was wondering what your experience was and how you guys cut it or if there are any good resources. Thanks in advance, msweston

Question by mweston    |  last reply


Which tool for the job(s)?

What sort of multiple tool do I want if I'm planning to work a bit with thin plastic, cardboard or maybe Plexiglas?

Topic by flashj    |  last reply


Scholarship Entry

I was thinking of a water exploration bot. First I would encase the bot in plexiglas, attach a microphone, webcam and lights to it. This way I could hook the webcam up to my laptop along with the microphone so I could see what is going on below. For movement I was thinking of either dropping it in the water till it hit the bottom and could walk, or attaching propellers to the plexiglas case that would probably be sealed with liquid nails or something like that. Feedback appreciated!

Topic by sardines454    |  last reply


Can you make a clear birdhouse? Answered

More specifically would birds use this, or would they see through it , not feel safe, and leave. I was considering using Plexiglas.

Question by ghicken    |  last reply


How can I wire a lamp to a digital clock?

I'm trying to make a clock/lamp to conserve outlet space. How can I wire the lamp to a digital clock? Is this even possible?  I want to take a digital clock and wire it to the lamp then mount the lamp and clock inside a fixture made of Plexiglas or wood.  This is sort of an experiment. 

Question by absaul    |  last reply


Dividing a laser beam

I'm working on a project that utilizes a series of laser beams, about 8. Instead of having 8 separate laser pointers/diodes, I think it would be easier if I were to find a way of splitting the beam of light from one into 8 beams of light. Does anyone have any ideas? Something like shining it through angled Plexiglas or some kind of prism?

Topic by whatsisface    |  last reply


safely handling glass and rigide plastic

Today i learned how not to store a mirror i intended to use, then forgot about. the price of this knowledge: 4 stitches and a tetanus shot. the mirror cracked, and a large chunk fell on my ankle. im hoping, after reading this story, those of you with Plexiglas or mirrors lying around (not hung up) will make sure they are properly stored. btw: the mirror broke exactly along the blue line i marked on the mirror for where i wanted to cut it.

Topic by tech-king    |  last reply


Protective Cover for Solar Cells? Answered

I have a commercial solar panel that has burned out cells.  I figure this is a great candidate for overhauling.  I notice that the cells are protected with what appears to be clear silicon with a clear plastic covering, Tedlar or Kevlar?  Anyone know where to get large quantity of silicon for large pour of covering?  It would appear to me that after the cells are assembled the silicon would be poured and then the plastic cover placed on top and the some sort of rolling pin or squeegy to smooth out, this would be better than plexiglas laid over the cells,  hail could hit it and not break anything.

Question by Foxtrot70    |  last reply


Where can I find inexpansive led light bulb? Answered

Hello everyone, My dad bought a new kitchen and he would like to put led lights behind plexiglas to have a light source at the level of the work place , I've searched on eBay for cheap led light bulb 40 watts equivalent , but it's a little bit expansive and after searching more , even if they say it's 40 watts equivalent , it's actually not and it's definitely not bright. Please , may someone help me finding the ultimate inexpansive led light bulb ?

Question by Anykey    |  last reply


How to build a portable solar gain heater?

What I have in mind would be....a frame with wheels, with plexiglas on the front, black on the back, air intake on the bottom, black stacks of aluminum cans inside to funnel heat upward....and a flexible hose at the top to carry heated air into the house....not quite sure how to rig that up. See, I've noticed that the outside of my dark green garage door will be hot to the touch even on a winter day, if it's sunny. But, the garage door is insulated and of course, the heat stays outside. This would have to be portable though, to roll away during non-winter, and in the rain...which since I lve in the Pacific Northwest, would be more often than not.

Question by chotii    |  last reply


Where can I recover transparant plastic plates like polycarbonate from?

I want to make a condo for rats out of an old closet. But because it is quite dark in the closet (even with the door removed), I want to replace the wooden side panels with something transparant like plexiglas or polycarbonate. But as a student I do not have much money so I want to keep is as cheap as possible. It has to be strong enough to support some shelves. I know I can always take away as much wood as I can from the sides and then cover it with al metal gauze but I find the idea with the transparant plastic more beautiful.

Question by ThinkFirst    |  last reply


Making plasma in a vacuum chamber?

Im having trouble generating any kind of plasma and i guess not fully understanding this. Heres my setup: A metal pot with a Plexiglas lid as vacuum chamber. a pressure gauge on top A vacuum chamber A MOT as the power supply. Dont have equipment to measure high voltage but id guess around 2KVAC as thats what i understand is standard Two terminals about 2 inches apart inside of the chamber made from copper. one coming from the top, one from the bottom.  I hook up the terminals , hear the nice MOT buzz, but nothing happens inside of the chamber. The mot has been tested and does work.  Any clue or direction to point me in?

Question by GalaxyX    |  last reply


Iconic Prototypes

Over at Wired, there is a photo set of early prototypes of iconic products. Here is the story for everyone's favorite summer toy, the super soaker:   Lonnie Johnson was trying to build a better refrigerator, based on a low-cost heat pump that circulated water instead of Freon. But when one of his custom-machined brass nozzles blasted a stream of water across his bathroom, Johnson—by day an engineer at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory—realized he had the makings of something way more fun. A shotgun-style air pump and a series of check valves allowed for sniperlike range and accuracy with little exertion. Selling the idea to toy companies, though, was more of an effort. After seven years of frustration, Johnson scrapped his difficult-to-manufacture Plexiglas “pressure containment vessel” for an empty 2-liter soda bottle. It wasn’t slick, but it was easy to make. In 1990, the toy maker Larami brought the Power Drencher to store shelves; it sold roughly 2 million of them in the first year alone. Rebranded as the Super Soaker, the line has raked in sales of more than $200 million to date.

Topic by frenzy    |  last reply


Pirate Station Robot Helmet

Hello everyone! Name's DJ_DAN. Just need some URGENT HELP! I just saw some videos of a Drum & Bass Festival called Pirate Station Network. It's robot head design really got me, and I like to make a fully wearable DJ  helmet with animated LEDs for the eyes, and a black grid-ish metal mesh for the mouth. Something like this: http://www.featurepics.com/FI/Thumb300/20100216/Black-Metal-Grid-1460869.jpg And really basic animations for the eyes, like fading in & out, flashing, standing still, etc. The base could be made from fiberglass or mabye carbon fiber. The eye "lens" maybe could be made from plexiglas or something like that. And the "headphones" could be the part of the helmet, with built-in headphones. I just slighty edited the design of the original PSN robot helmet, which looks like something like this: http://www.4shared.com/photo/3miIkBII/robothelmetdesign.html PLEASE! I just want to know who could do one for me or at least how could I start to make the helmet! PLEASE HELP! (And sorry for my English...)

Topic by dj-dan  


RFID solution for cat feeder with 12" or greater range (and electric eye too)?

I want to build a cat feeder that's basically a plexiglas box with a sliding door that will close whenever our fat cat gets near it, and re-opens when he moves away. Normally it'll remain open so our other two cats can eat (they're skittish so it's better if it doesn't have to react to them, and instead can react to the fat cat). To drive the door I thought I could use an old CD ROM drive (kind of like https://www.instructables.com/id/RFID-pet-feeder/). I'd like the tag on the fat cat's collar to be waterproof(able) and not require batteries. The antenna can be as big/complicated as necessary, as long as I can get the desired range of 12-24" or so. Any suggestions for an RFID setup that'll work for this? Also, I should set up an electric eye around the opening so it doesn't activate (close) when a cat has its head in the opening. Something like we have on our garage door to prevent it closing on someone, but smaller would be ideal. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Question by bunner_bob    |  last reply


Homemade glove box clean room for DIY hard drive repair? Answered

Hard drive data recovery costs hundreds to thousands of dollars, which just isn't worth it for most things.Sometimes it's possible to fix a dead hard drive by replacing the controller board with one from an identical model (make sure every model number, part number, etc is identical). Some people have success with freezing the hard drive.If there's a mechanical problem, though, you can't just take the hard drive apart and fix it, since it's very sensitive to even the smallest particles of dust or contamination.I've heard of people (with not much to lose) taking the drive apart anyway and successfully repairing it, or even adding a plexiglass window and (apparently) using the drive afterward. Somehow I doubt that this one was still usable:http://www.grynx.com/projects/plexiglas-harddrive-window/I've heard that you can make a makeshift cleanroom in a bathroom by running a shower for a while to clean all the dust out of the air. It seems like it would be a lot easier to just make a glovebox out of a clear tupperware and create a clean room environment inside it.Has this been done? What would it take?http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/saving-data-a-head-crash,1044-4.html

Question by endolith    |  last reply


Top Digital Picture Frame Instructables

Digital picture frames can make a great gift for anyone, and here on Instructables we have a whole range of DIY digital picture frame projects. Check out this list of some of our favorite digital picture frames that you can create for a fraction of the cost of buying something similar at a store. Cheap 'n Easy Digital Picture Frame The name says it all: joedog86's original frame can be made by anyone and is not too expensive.   DIgital Picture Frame Number Two The follow-up to the Cheap 'n Easy frame shows a different way to make another simple and economical picture frame. Glass-Mounted Digital Picture Frame For the geek that loves to see circuitry, this digital picture frame places the screen between two sheets of Plexiglas so that you can see some of the internal workings of your frame. Hanging Laptop Digital Painting Matte and frame a laptop screen to turn it into a classy photo frame. Yet Another Digital Picture Frame Another approach to making a digital picture frame results in a high-quality final product. Dell Laptop Digital Photo Frame Instead of tossing out your old Dell laptop, turn it into an aesthetically pleasing and highly functional digital picture frame. 3D Digital Picture Viewer A twist on the classic digital photo frame: building JayDub's DigiStereopticon to view digital photos in 3D. If you want to look at more options, you can check out a previous compilation, the Digital Picture Frame How-To Building Guide or the Instructables group for digital picture frames.There's always room for more. Keep the digital photo frame Instructables coming!

Topic by joshf    |  last reply


Distribution of Solar Heated Water and Any Other Heated or Cooled Water

I started this project about a week ago after seeing the Instructable – https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-a-strikeheliostatstrike-paraboliI made mine out of cardboard and then coated the cardboard – front and back – with fiberglass resin for stiffness. I covered the inside with tinfoil to test it out and find the focal point. It worked great with the focal point at the center of the dish even with the lip of the curve. I then removed the tinfoil and replaced the tinfoil with mirrored Plexiglas. Now it works awesome. I have a 30� parabolic mirror that can ignite wood almost instantaneously at the focal point of the light.Next I constructed the heating coil to run water through. This is made from a large 1 Kg coffee can, 16’ of ¼� copper tubing with end fittings, and the glass lid of a small sauce pan (handle removed). The outside of the coffee can is painted flat black as is the copper pipe. The copper pipe is coiled to a coil 4� in diameter and 6� in length and inserted inside the can with the ends extending from the side of the can through two drilled holes. The inside of the can is not painted, but left shiny. The glass lid is then taped over the hole with aluminum metal tape covering a minimum amount of the glass – about 1/4� around the edge.The coffee can is then suspended over the mouth of the parabolic mirror by a three point 6� chimney pipe stand-off. The can’s mouth is centered at the focal point of the mirror so all of the light being reflected by the mirror must enter the coffee can. Hoses are hooked up to the copper pipe fittings and these lines go to the feed/storage tank.The problem with the conventional set up from here is that the speed the water moves at (slow) to be heated to a great degree causes such great loses through convection, this system is not really feasible. I propose a new idea – or a new twist on an old idea.I noticed that the solar heat generating station use a black water pipe inside a glass vacuum tube to generate heat from the sun for heating water. I said to myself that this is a great idea and plan on building the next heating coil in a vacuum chamber. But, I also came up with the idea that the if the water is heated in this manner, why can’t it be transferred to the storage tank in a similar manner.If the feed lines were suspended inside a larger outer line and the outer line sealed tight and vacuumed the heat transfer due to convection would be almost nil. I estimated that with a total convective area at 100% the use of plastic stand-offs (8 @1/8� thick over 12’) the convective area would be reduced to 0.6%. Unbelievable! Even if this rose to 5% it is far beyond anything in use today by the home owner. Stretches of pipe going 100s of meters would no longer be un-heard of. You could place the dish in a close by field away from the trees and house and pump the heat back without losing it to the ground.This would also work for outdoor wood furnaces if use today. An outer pipe could be added over the existing pipe work, sealed, and vacuumed – almost all heat lose would be gone. And much larger stretches of pipe could be used here also. They would no longer need one furnace for the barn and another for the house. With this system, the pipes could even be run above ground, if desired, in some cases.This could also be used to replace insulation on cooling lines also.The key to the system is minimal contact between the inside and outside lines, and the vacuum between the two lines. Remember, there is no transfer of heat through convention within a vacuum, because there is no air for the heat to transfer through.As with all the new ideas this could get costly depending on the scale of piping you are dealing with – but the savings from reduced heat lose will far out way these cost in the near future.I may get an Instructable out for the Energy efficiency contest, but will be hard pressed.

Topic by strmrnnr    |  last reply


A central non-electric grid electricity storage system for solar and wind energy with future expandibility

I have been thinking and reading about building a system so that I could surf using a laptop, charge lights, charge mp3 players, mobile phones, rechargeable batteries so that if possible they would not need electricity from the grid, rather that would be optional when there would not be enough power that was found otherwise. I had first thought to work this out in a group as a kind of project, as there are others but I don't really know that many people with those skills. The idea is that you start very basic, with say one solarcell and the electronics. The electronics should allow plug to when you wnat to have the money you can add another, in serie or parallels so they give more power. This can then be plugged in to a system that stores that electricity in batteries. The system should also be so that it allows to connect for example one or more small selfbuild wind turbines, like the ones found here, so that in the best case you get electricity from both, or one of both but with the possible option to get electricity from the grid so that if necessary you can charge something from there. That would mean it would include an electricity meter, and maybe the possibillity to add that self powering powerplant as well.So basically you have two projects. Or maybe three. The casing to add small solarcells in, and then be able to add several casing together. The electronics to put them in serie and then a central electronic system, which allows to connect solar casings, self build windmills, batteries, the self powering power plant, possibly the possibility to add it do the grid, and last but not least the possibbility to charge things. That could be a seperate part of electonics. As one of the things I had been thinking about is to allow to connect fuel cells to it. I prefer us in what already exist, so I would suggest using the following instructabels projects or learning from them:a Savonius Wind Turbine,Ted Baer's Bicycle Wheel Windmill, savonius windmill alternator,introPringles Wind Turbine,DIY 1000 watt wind turbine,A remote controlled power RGB LED mood light,Power LED's - simplest light with constant-current circuit,Circuits for using High Power LED's,personal powerPlant, ... others may follow laterLike for example the Charge Any USB Device by Riding Your Bike but then connected to the portable usb batteries, so they could be also connected to the central charge unit. The connectors could be usb connectors. I saw some time back a connector which had a 4 port usb block attached to it, but other connector types would be usable as well. In adition, it should be able to switch on automitcally when the sun goes down, but allow a control a button or remote control to trun them manually off, so that no needless electricity is wasted. I know this is a lott at once, but its more my kind of thing to work on more complete/complex systems. The lights that would be used with this would be led lights, powered a la sunjar, using the same technique. So that them turning off and on, is mostly controlled by the sun going up and down. My idea was that with such a system, I could add piece by piece, and still have light, and electricity indepency from the grid, and I would know the cost, so that once I would have bought the pieces it would generate electricty whitout to much further cost.Solarcells would typically provide 8V or 12 V, this could be smaller ones, the casing would be is supose made of plexiglas, with pieces that standup to keep them appart, and holes for the cables, and a backside, that stays dry as well. This is what is on the drawing: the solarcells feed into the sersol which puts them in not parallel and then transport the current to the cen1 which directs it to the batteries to store it. The same for the windmills. But they go to the windmills, which puts there current in not parallel. The powerreg, regulates the power of the personal power plant, it can discharge, but also just regulate. There is connector to the grid, so if there is no electricity or not enough electricity it can be taken from the grid. There is the possibillity of a remote, which would work in connection with the cen1. The batteries might need extra electronics to see which one is full and to divert the current to another battery, and to get current back to the powersockets which could be regular oens, but also preferably usb ones. The other two connections could be for for example fuel cells, or something else. The control solar cells is simply to turn the connected sunjars which may still each have there own solarcell, on or off by the rising or going down of the sunn. The remote, is to turn them off manually.The casing should be sturdy but not to expensive, it may have to include somethings to keep it right, but the idea is to be able to put them after glass as well. The idea is that the electronics design would be free, or very cheap, so that people can build this themselves, the casing shouldn't be to expensive but that can differ on taste, most parts or thing likes windmills would be the DIY type or possibly ones you can buy as well, and most parts would have to be, off the shelf. I'll try to add a basic drawing, and some sketches, to give you a better idea. I'm not that good at that, i'd admit.

Topic by Floris Vermeir    |  last reply