Who never wished they had a good plunger launcher? You could use the standard 'dart gun " mechanism but make it bigger. Eh! Steve
Topic by iamthemeatball
I recently got an antique syringe, complete with needles and all. It is in perfect working order, clean and rust free. The only problem is that the rubber plunger is stuck in the glass tube and won't dislodge. It has some rust like buildup around it, but it rinsed off the end easily. Can anyone help me get it out? ( I want to keep the original glass tube because I would like it to be complete and not have a new glass/ plexiglass tube) best answer to the solution that works.
Question by XOIIO | last reply
Folks, I recently purchased some inexpensive 110Volts AC solenoid coils from China through eBay (of course.) As I understand solenoids will convert electricity into linear motion. I have been unable to do that. I tried ferrous rods as plungers, they get stuck inside the walls of the coil's cylinder. No ferrous material like aluminum rod did not work at all. Can someone please guide me to make it work. I purchased 110 Volt coil thinking that it will create a stronger field, I don't feel the strengths of magnets to be rather weak. 1. The coil gets hot when energized. Will it burn out if I keep the solenoid energized for 4-5 minutes? 2. Should I go for a lower voltage DC coil? 3. What happens to the dc coil if energized for long time? I would greatly appreciate your comments. Thanks.
Topic by kabira | last reply
Question by RogerA58 | last reply
I was thinking about putting a plunger against a slide pot with a spring to reset the pot, or making a plunger that rolls a rotary pot with a spring, but I was wondering if there was a way that I could use a piezo like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-24mm-Cased-Piezo-Disc-Projects-Unltd-Audio-Transducer-3-Lead-Buzzer-Alarm-/120900133885?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D120961575052%26ps%3D54 I think I could have a plunger push down on a spring that touches the exposed part. I don't need to do anything with the signal other than read the voltage and even then I just need to know what it's at compared to the range of values from pressed down to not.
Question by tjmburns | last reply
I took out the air restrictor in the main plunger thing (correctly) Everything works great however, I hear that familiar plastic on plastic sound you'd get from any other air restrictor removed nerf gun I did the same thing to my longshot but i put in pads where the plunger made contact with the plastic so it wouldn't damage the gun as much Should i do the same for my vulcan?
Question by ishmal1103 | last reply
I wanted to make a K’NEX poll to see what all of you K’NEX gun builders prefer. All you have to do is copy all the questions, paste them into your comment “window,” and highlight the answer you decide to go with. What type of ammo do you prefer: Blue rod Green rod Grey rod Oodammo Other Red rod White rod What is your favorite type of gun: Bolt action Breach loaded Break action Bullpup Hammer operated Lever action Muzzle loaded Plunger/shotgun Pump action Rate of Fire gun Semi-automatic Simple pin + magazine Slingshot Turreted What is your least favorite type of gun: Bolt action Breach loaded Break action Bullpup Hammer operated Lever action Muzzle loaded Plunger/shotgun Pump action Rate of Fire gun Semi-automatic Simple pin + magazine Slingshot Turreted What is the type gun you would prefer to take into an outdoor K’NEX war: Bolt action Breach loaded Break action Bullpup Hammer operated Lever action Muzzle loaded Plunger/shotgun Pump action Rate of Fire gun Semi-automatic Simple pin + magazine Slingshot Turreted What type of gun would you prefer to take into an indoor K’NEX war: Bolt action Breach loaded Break action Bullpup Hammer operated Lever action Muzzle loaded Plunger/shotgun Pump action Rate of Fire gun Semi-automatic Simple pin + magazine Slingshot Turreted Which bands do you prefer to use: Size #32 Size #64 Size #64 thin Size #117
Topic by The Red Book of Westmarch | last reply
I bought something like this off Ebay: http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1S5xyLpXXXXcGXXXXq6xXFXXX1/New-Fashion-DC-font-b-12V-b-font-2A-Pull-Type-Linear-font-b-Solenoid-b.jpg Turns out it wasnt as powerfull as i need it to be but it has the right amount of travel and is nearly perfect in size... Notice that the body where the coils are is fairly short. What if i made my own? But MUCH longer body, (theres plenty of room in my aplication LENGTH-wise) will it get more powerfull? Can i make it more powerfull by adding more coil? Turns out i have plenty of coil like the one used in my solenoid, i have plastic pipe similar size and i can CNC the central "plunger" rather easy as well. Or make it different shape etc... The solenoid i have has a metal body, does that affect how strong the solenoid is? The coils are wrapped around a plastic tube, the plunger is rather loose inside it and the tube could be thinner. Will thicker plunger and thinner tube improve the power? Im using a 11.1V lipo battery, something you can find in RC-cars. Increasing voltage/amps IS NOT AN OPTION. So, in simplicity, if i make a solenoid like mine, but longer, can it pull greater load than the original or do i need to do something else as well? The actual aplication itself in simplicity is the solenoid pulling certain object back around ~10mm AGAINST a spring, not very powerfull spring might i add. It pulls the object back, then lets go. It will be controlled via a circuit later but right now just a battery and nut-job holding a red button. I just need a solenoid powerfull enough to overcome the spring. The object needs some force to return to its position so putting in a smaller spring is not an option eighter.
Topic by peelo | last reply
Y'know those paper logmakers where you soak some newspaper and then put it in a metal box and pull the handles to compress it? I have tried to do this with PVC pipe and a wooden plunger made to fit, (with a wooden base as well). didn't work. anyone know if those logmakers work and how to do a cheap/simple version of one, perhaps building on my PVC pipe efforts? when I burned the resulting log from my PVC logmaker it was extremely sooty and burned in about 2 minutes, they are supposed to last an hour and burn clean enough to use in a woodburner.
Topic by djsc | last reply
Hello everyone! I am interested in creating a geocache for an upcoming event I will be attending. My thought is to have a birdhouse (fairly large) that will have walls that are on hinges that open when the person presses down on a plunger of a dynamite box (handmade of course). Crazy idea I know but I am basing it on the event. While I have limited electronic knowledge I am in dire need of help in trying how to make this work and have it be able to reset itself for the next person to find.I would greatly appreciate any help with how this would work, and would definitely give credit to anyone who helps in the cache listing. Thanks in advance. -Will
Topic by apcwill | last reply
i was moding my nerf longshot and the o ring from the plunger chamber in the longshot went missing. searched everywhere to find it but it didn't show up. the only o-ring i have fits pritty well but it is a bit too fat. i was able to cock the gun but the o-ring is too tight on the side of the chamber. it doesn't want to shoot when i pull the triger. i don't know how to fix the o-ring. can someone tell me if there is a way of shrining the o-ring so it will fit better. or perhaps a mod on the piece that the o-ring goes onto. Please Help!!
Question by shadow wave rider | last reply
There are so many different nerf mods for ALL nerf guns, But the question is "Which one brings enough power to make a nerf gun shoot far and fast with better accuracy?" Answer is all them, if you put all the mods for one gun into one gun you are going to get a great outcome unless you do the mod bad, take a Recon CS-6 for instance it is a low power nerf rifle not good for wars at all shoots around 20 feet but, mine has been modified and i am currently looking for different modifications for it but it shoots more than 80 feet measured, exact results are 80 on most shots 1/10 shots shoots around 50 and that is because it was a BAD DART, here is what i did, (P.s: this will be a instructable for the mods in this....) 1 Removed AR 2 stretched out spring by plunger ( not recomended get a new spring if you can ) 3 put a spring behind plunger to create more friction which pushes the barrel forward more and causes a stronger air push. 4 made the air tube bigger by the AR with a drill Thats all i did it was easier than most mods i have done ( iremember the maverick i had no idea how to get into the roatating barrel) but it led to the best outcome, P.s doing the same thing makes the Raider CS-35 alot more stronger it will more than likely shoot 90+ I will be getting a longstrike soon so i will show you guys the AR Removal and other mods i know which can be applied to the gun and create another great Nerf Sniper Rifle, Later guys.
Topic by AirsoftTeam
I have a problem with my doorbell, and it's driving me insane. A couple of weeks ago I decided to fix our doorbell, one that has not worked for a very long time (decades). I replaced the grommets that go on the tone bars. I cleaned the plungers and everything. It worked just fine, until about a week ago. Sometimes it will ring, sometimes it's very quiet, sometimes it doesn't ring at all, and sometimes it will do a short ring (the ring doesn't last very long, like it used to). Also, it is about 40 years old. Another thing, the switch is rated at 16V, and I'm using an 18V doorbell, could this cause the circuit to not complete properly? Here is a picture of it (cover removed) I thought by putting hot glue on the grommets would help, but it didn't. The pic shows the glue, but now it is removed.
Topic by popit | last reply
Hello everyone, I've come here for some help on designing a PVC-based air tank. I'm planning on building a pneumatic cannon that I can charge once and use to fire multiple short bursts of air. To do I decided to have two tanks -one large tank acting as the main tank and a local tank with a much smaller volume fed by the main. My problem is that I want to squeeze out all the air I can from the main tank, and I'm not entirely sure what the best way to do that would be. My current design uses a spring behind a wooden plunger so that as the volume of compressed air drops, the spring can extend and restore the pressure. (Image attached for clarity) Can anyone spot potential problem areas or places that could be improved?
Topic by Ninja Togo | last reply
For a quirky present for a friend I am making a sink plunger seat like this one . Instead of just a saddle I plan to make the seat bigger and in the design of something vaguely saddle/potty-shaped (a veebeam if you are interested, as he worked on them). Anyway for amusement rather than kinky reasons(!) I thought it would be cool to make it vibrate with a remote control. And as I know nothing about vibrating things, my question is does anyone know what I should be searching for? Brand names would be great. It doesn't have to be strong but it needs to be felt through a thick pad of stiff padding/foam and preferably with a separate remote control. Also, is there anything I need to be worried about or such like? Sorry for such a rooky question but I've spent two hours on the internet and all I kind find is how to convert vibrating chairs into XBox chairs and things that are not safe for work(!) Thank you for any help Poppy
Question by minipoppy | last reply
I am trying to start a buisness and I need an injection molding machine to make the parts. I need my object to be about the 6cm3 I dont want to build one because I don't want to waste my money. I have loked at the galomb model but I don't know if this makes objects big enough and a 2-4 minute plastic heat up seems quite long.http://www.injectionmolder.net also I saw in make magazine in the tool editionan injection mold machine called minijector I don;t know the price but I watched a video and it looked like what I need does anybody know any more specs like the price and the mold size on the inside? ps i am looking at the minijector 45 http://www.mini-jector.com/index.php/standard-machines/small-plunger-type/model-45
Question by undftdking | last reply
I am a hobbyist trying to add a striking feature to an existing clock.My clock is a quartz movement with a set of contacts that close briefly every time the hour hand passes the 12 position. This pulse is used to trigger a solenoid which when energised causes a plunger to strike a bar and produce a resonant bell sound. I include the cct. I am currently using. The 6v. battery powers the 10 ohm solenoid coil & U2 the LD1117 IC which provides the 1.5v needed by the quartz movement. My project is to change the hourly strike from a single stroke to one which strikes the hour the correct number of times to indicate the time, the same as a mechanical striking clock does - 1 stroke at one oclock - 2 strokes at 2 oclock etc.continuing to 12 and then beginning again at 1 oclock. Unfortunately my electronic ability does not extend to using counters and timer ccts so I am looking for help with my project. I would greatly appreciate any help with the circuitry needed to allow me to complete this project. TIA, RMHC.
Topic by RMHC
Hey Everyone... I'm Alive! I've just been really busy with my senior design project :DSo today I acquired ToolUsingAnimal's vacuum pump on loan. I'm going to be doing some vacuum bagging.... To prevent his pump from blowing out, I need to make a limit switch so the pump shuts down when it reaches full vacuum and then turns back on if some of the vacuum bleeds of somewhere.So the method I cooked up today was to use a syringe with a weight. The weight will pull the syringe open and close a micro switch that turns the compressor on. If there's vacuum, the plunger will be fully retracted and the switch will be open (off position). This method will cost me all of $5 or so (10 cents for the syringe and $4 for the switch).I was just doing some math on how much weight I'll need for different syringe sizes - and it's totally plausible (we're talking less than a pound to 3 pounds depending on syringe diameter).Question - any other suggestions or blatantly obvious/easy/cheap solutions? I know this sounds Rube Golbergian, but it's not nearly as complicated as it sounds (or looks) :D Emphasis on cheap, I just put in an order for roughly $2000 of materials and supplies!
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
I'm sort of undecided on the best way to go with a water pumping project and hoping someone had some advice/ideas. The goal: pump water from a small stream into a rain barrel (or IBC tote) in a location with no electricity. It's for having water available for watering fruit trees and doesn't need to pump much volume (even 100 gal/week would be great). It does have to do it while I'm not around though and I'd like to do it as cheaply as possible. My idea is to make a small diaphragm pump out of pvc (for the housing) and some rubber (for the diaphragm) and a couple check valves. My inspiration is this guy's pump. I could drive it with a small DC motor powered by a solar panel. Maybe install a float switch that turns it off if the barrel gets full. Any other ideas on making a diaphragm pump using cheap or found parts? I've never done anything with solar and would appreciate any advice on components. What needs to go between the panel and the motor, if anything? I've heard talk of a "controller" but have no idea what it is or what I'd need... Also a goal is to design using as low power motors as possible so that I don't have to spend much on panels. I've also played around with the idea of something wind powered, like this thing (but cruder, presumably). And had this other crazy idea to make a bellows-style pump for a windmill using a toilet plunger. Anyway, any thoughts and ideas are appreciated!
Topic by Sam_NY | last reply
Hi, I was wondering if I could have some help coming up with a circuit, Basically me and my friend are modding nerf guns and I thought it would be cool If I could find a way to make the rapid strike fire three darts then stop (or three round bursts XD) Any how the part of the dart gun this in-tales seems to be the little arm that pushes darts into two rotating discs (this is one that uses fly wheels as opposed to a plunger) it works on a motor and gear that pushes it in and out, pushing the trigger activates this. (I thought it would be a solenoid and that the trigger would put out electricity in bursts, or are those called pulses? any way that's where all this using a momentary switch idea comes from) So if anyone thinks that they can make a circuit using only the power from the trigger and lots of good timing a lesson would be much appreciated :D My Idea seems unnecessarily complicated but it's all I could come up with :D ,Any way the idea for the momentary switch circuit would be put some form of proximity sensor switch near the arm (the one that pushes the dart into the fly wheels). Something like a magnet switch or IR thingy ( I forgot what there called I think magnetic reed switch and Infa red proximity sensor or detector?) the idea after that was that each time the arm passed the sensor it would activate the sensor, using that and the trigger(if they were both needed to initiate the circuit then releasing the trigger would reset the circuit) the first and second shots would push the dart into the fly wheels and the third would also push a dart into the fly wheel and turn off the circuit(or turn on the circuit activating a spdt relay and switching the link to the motor off) So far I've come up with some ideas using relays but just pressing the button once activated the whole circuit, I've also though of using a capacitor but I don't really know how to use them, if they work by holding X charge that can be filled by pressing a momentary button, that is hooked up to Y amount of power (possibly through a resistor), Z amount of times fills the capacitor stopping the circuit that would work, though I would have to find a way to discharge it... Thanks for any help if I get any XD , and if posting my current not working circuit designs would help I'll do that, just have to figure out how to draw a circuit...
Question by justomeguy | last reply
Hi, I have a dog who I adopted off the street who has a stub for a paw. The padding on his stub is deformed and since he has not toes/claw he is always getting this stub cut up when he runs around (just barely more than a year old and runs around like a nut). He is a real sweetheart and a big lug at the same time (100lbs) which has made it a bit more of a challenge. (I tried to put the photos inline with the post but when i tried to publish the whole post was blank so I just attached them). Design Issues Sleeve/leg durability To resolve this problem I have been trying to make a shoe that will #1 Actually stay on snugly and #2 Last more than a few weeks. It has been an evolution starting off with bought doggie “booties” which were pretty much worthless, to a old indestructible (until now) hiking sock + “shoe goo” to a sewn nylon sleeve thingy + shoe goo. This is the best we have been able to come up with as he destroys (since he is so active), I was going to go to the dump to see if I could get some used airbag material as I had made a dog bed cover from the stuff before (previous dog who was hell bent on digging through her rubber foam bed) and it was friggin bullet proof. Keeping it on So the shoe goo + nylon sock is the closes we have come so far, the sock/sleeve part kind of works because it allows us to “strap it on” above his hock so it doesn’t slip down/off, that worked great when we were using a softer material but this more durable nylon stuff (from an old suit travel bag) seriously rubs around his hock, I am guess I will try some sort of padding (shoe insole?) around the inside where we strap it on, bulky but just using a thick sock to provide a protection wasn’t enough. I’m not in the US (or a western country) at the moment so I haven’t been able to get my hands on proper Velcro and the Velcro I managed to get he has decimated (I think mostly due to crappy Velcro but also again his just scraping up against just about everything) so I was going to try a belt of sorts but am hoping someone has a better idea. Durable Sole that Stays on Shoe goo is the best we have come up with so far for a sole as everything else I tried just didn’t work (tried rubber pipe stopper thingy, Ear Bulb Syringe, modified mini-plunger) either because they didn’t fit how he walks on that foot (can’t describe it but a ball type shape is needed) or they were too hard to affix to a sleeve in a way that they would stay. The best version we have come up with so far has involved the afore mentioned nylon sleeve (durability) with shoe goo smeared in layers on the end. This has been workable but the shoe goo doesn’t stick to the material as well as I would like and is starting to come off after about 2 months. As with the other issues, any suggestions would be appreciated!
Topic by gaikokujinkyofusho | last reply
Https://www.instructables.com/answers/What-essential-tools-should-I-include-in-my-dorm-r/The longest comment on this site is one by Guardian Fox on the "What survival tools should I keep in my dorm room tool box?" If anyone can find a longer one, please PM me the link.Keep in mind, he typed this with his own fingers, not by holding down the paste command for a day. If that's what you want, then go to https://www.instructables.com/community/the_forum_for_spam/ Source: Guardian FoxFor the dorm room, you only need a few tools. You're not going to be renovating, and you're not going to be doing much woodworking. You aren't allowed to do anything at all to the room beyond hanging pictures (if that), and most dorms forbid power-tools in the rooms no matter what you're use them for. Here's my take on what you'll need for the dorm. I've included a lot of things that seem unnecessary, and you can probably live without some of it... but the kit will get you through nearly any problems you'll encounter at school or in an apartment:-At least one decent multi-bit screwdriver. Look for something with a comfortable grip and sturdy construction. Avoid gimmicks like built in flashlights. I recommend the Piquiq brand which comes in a few different sizes and can be found in many hardware stores in North America. You can usually get their three-piece set for less than $20.-A set of jeweler's screwdrivers. Get a cheap set because these little things WILL get lost. Look for something with at least a few unusual bits as well as the usuals. Get a 30ish-piece set for less than $20. Most handy if you've got a thing for messing with your electronics, but also great for changing a watch battery, fixing glasses, etc.-A basic hammer. Nothing fancy needed here, and I've always preferred an ordinary wooden-handled hammer anyway. Go for a smaller hammer if you only plan on hanging pictures, get a regular-sized hammer if you plan on using it to do real work later on. Stanley is a good brand with decent prices, but there are lots of good budget-priced hammers out there. Drop by a hardware store and pick one that feels good in your hand. Less than $20 for a brand name. $10 or less for a bargain hammer. Make sure the head of the hammer is securely attached to the handle, no matter what brand you pick but a little tiny wiggle is ok. Hang a picture or tap a few finishing nails into a small project. Very handy, even when you use it wrong.-Two utility knives with snap-off blades. One with the small size, and the other with the larger size. There are hundreds of brands of these on the market, and a lot of them are junk so spring for an Olfa (the best i.m.o.) if you can find it. Richard is a decent low-cost brand which is often found in paint stores. Again, avoid gimmicks. The most important thing you need to know is if the locking mechanism works well or not, as a utility knife can become dangerous if the blade is going to slide around while you're using it. Good knives can be around $10-20 each. Cheap, "disposable" knives can be found for less than a dollar, but be sure to buy something that seems sturdy. Add a self-healing cutting mat from the dollar store, and while you're there get a metal ruler for cutting straight lines. Smaller utility knives are good for light-duty applications like trimming photographs or opening packages. Larger utility knives are good for harder work like cutting lots of cardboard-A measuring tape. You probably already have a ruler for school, but a measuring tape is much more useful for around the house. Get a 16' tape for good versatility. Choose one that has a sturdy housing and a tape that slides in and out easily. Bennett is a good budget brand you can find for less than $10 and I recommend theirs over any of the name-brand tapes out there. If you can't find that brand, go to the building supplies store and ask what brand the clerks and outside staff use around the shop. You could skip this one during college, but you'll need it one day and it's the kind of thing you can make uses for.-Pliers. For around the house and crafting I find a pair of long-nose pliers more handy than a pair of linesman's pliers, but both tools have their place. Locking pliers (aka vice grips) are also super-handy. Get one or a set, but avoid the bargain brands. Look to spend at least $7 each for basic pliers, and at least $12 for a good pair of locking pliers. -An adjustable wrench (aka thumb-wrench). Pick a smaller-sized model for your toolbox. Most of the nuts and bolts in the house will be small anyway. Go for something that opens up to 1" or 1 1/2" Brand isn't an issue, but make sure it operates smoothly and won't jam or work loose. Spend less than $10. -Scissors. A usable, general purpose pair of scissors can be found at the dollar stores or in an office supply store. Make sure they open and close smoothly and that the blades don't wiggle. Look for one with a metal screw at the pivot so you can tighten it if it works loose. If you're using it routinely for cutting fabric or any other specific task, spend some extra money and get the right kind for the job or at least a good pair of general purpose ones. Less than $5 for cheap ones, $20+ for quality ones.-Sewing notions; A pack of needles, a roll of white thread, a roll of black thread, and a roll of transparent thread, a few safety pins and any spare buttons you find. That should get you through any wardrobe fixes you may need. Each item in the kit should be a dollar or less, and you can save money by starting with a pre-made kit from a dollar store and adding a few of your own extras. Also highly recommended is this, http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1352 , but keep in mind it is cheap for a reason and needs constant attention.-A soldering iron if it's allowed in your room, and only if you're working with or fixing electronics or jewelry. Get a scrap piece of plywood or something to use as a work surface. $15 for a basic 30w iron. Another $10 for a safer stand.-A toolbox that holds everything. I like the ones that double as a step-stool, which you can find for $20-$30 if you look hard enough (mastercraft and rubbermaid brands). You might like something different, but small plastic toolboxes and even small plain steel ones are all quite cheap so go look and see what you like. You can even use your imagination and just use a plastic tote, a tacklebox, a backpack/messenger bag, shoebox, etc. Just pack your tools in it neatly and avoid putting the heavy or sharp ones on top of the ones that might break.-A plunger. If your dorm room has a bathroom, this is a must even if you never have to use it. It's an insurance policy against one hell of a mess. $10-$15.Anyway, that's all I can think of for tools. Craftier folks need more gear, and less DIY-prone folks need less. Use your best judgment and buy only what you can afford and might actually use. Pick up a few fasteners and adhesives too, usually as needed. Here's what you should probably keep on hand.-A package of assorted picture-hangers and hooks (if hanging pictures is allowed in your dorm). Buy a pack at the dollar store. A few extra finishing nails and small screws would be a good addition to this as well.-Thumbtacks. Buy a pack at the dollar store or office supply store.-Scotch tape, packing tape, duct tape (or Gorilla tape).-Twist ties. Get a bunch from a pack of trash bags.-A package of superglue. Rather than one large tube, get the pack with several tiny tubes so you don't lose your entire supply when one dries up.-Craft wire. Use it wherever you might use a twist tie, but also can be bent into whatever shape you need to become a tool or a piece of art. Dollar stores carry rolls of it often at 2/$1
Topic by DELETED_M4industries | last reply