I used that all.the.time. :(
Topic by Lithium Rain 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
A 70-year-old Englishman has a 30-foot trebuchet and has plans to use it to toss big piles of chicken poo at thieves. I'm not sure just how accurate he can be with it, but I sure would love to see such a crazy device in action. And if that doesn't work, he has a 20-foot cannon that he wants to use to shoot rubber-tipped ammo. "I'm not out to kill anyone or even hurt them," he says. "I just want to keep yobs off my land." link
Topic by fungus amungus 11 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Isn't it really leaving a dump and flushing it?
Question by p0tty 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Question by jinhat 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
(Besides using them to clean up dog poo-poo, of course:])
Question by happi cat #71 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
umm, well, i see knex hydrolics stuff around and i wondered how the hydrolics were made...cuz itd be really useful on my boats, thanks! if an instructible could be made on how to do it, then a link post, id be very happy! thanks in advance hedzup456 knex addict
Question by hedzup456 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have an old but working hover mower (Flymo). How could i turn this into a vaccum device to suck up dog poo in my garden ? This isnt the model I have, but it works in the same way. I can get my hands on plastic pipe duct tape etc, and obviously it would work from mains power.
Topic by Thunderballs 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Question by dave redmerski 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Hello all, I just started working on a new card game, the idea was to have cards of common household items that any young boy/girl would use to build something they shouldn't. On each card I'd like to have two or three things you can build with the item... ie. 'Puppy Poo'+ 'A Stick'= Poo on a Stick!; 'Puppy Poo'+ 'Paperbag'+ 'Lighter'= Flaming Bag of Poo. Yes juvenile I know but as a kid these are the things many of us remember... at least if you were one of the kids in art class making smoke bombs with the paints, and blow dart guns with you pens... not that I was...... Anyway, I would just like to know if there is anything you (or 'someone you knew of') build as a kid or last week when you had a bit of 'Gas'+ 'Water Gun'+ 'Lighter'= Flame Thrower; 'Small PVC pipes'+ 'Marshmallows'= Marshmallows Shooter; 'Soda Bottle'+ 'Mentos'= Sticky mess for Mom... you get the idea. Any Ideas you have would be a great help! Thanks, Max
Topic by Jiblet 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Please help i installed wrong firmware on zebra ' p310cm' Was in great working with 2.65 until applied the '310i' 3.35 firmware
Question by ms try poo 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hi all, I'm having a bit of a dilemma regarding an Instructable for April Fool's Day. I was considering posting an idea I had for pulling the classic schoolboy Flaming-Bag-Of-Poo-On-The-Doorstep prank, only at great distances. It's a thought I had several years ago when a colleague was irritating me, and I thought "I'd really like to leave a flaming bag of poo on his porch. Too bad he lives 2000 miles away." Obviously, this is not something that I would actually do. It's intended as an amusing article about the theory of the thing, not something to make in real life and use. Mailing combustible materials is illegal and dangerous, potentially lethal, prosecutable under terror laws, and just generally a bad idea all 'round. Also, the mechanism of the thing could be easily repurposed to initiate a much more dangerous payload than a paper bag full of poo. Honestly, the device is pretty much a mail bomb with a joke payload. My major concerns are 1) there are people out there who would be dumb enough to build it and prank someone, thinking they could do it safely; 2) there are people out there who are malicious enough to build it and use it for intentionally destructive purposes; 3) The mere presence of the article on the site could potentially attract government scrutiny, and if someone actually were to get injured by such a device built from plans found on this site.... On the other hand, Kiteman's 0th. I have considered redesigning it so that the payload involves something innocuous, like a spring-loaded confetti launcher or a recorded message, but the humor of the thing really depends upon the absurdity of mailing someone a flaming bag of poo. Mailing someone a sound bite that says "YOU SUCK" just doesn't have the same impact. Plus, it costs more to make. Poo is free. Anyway, what do my esteemed colleagues think? Am I being overly cautious, or am I right in just shelving the whole thing?
Topic by RavingMadStudios 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
I have a cat . Who is kept in over night. When i wake up in the morning there is cat poo on my doorstep and in the back garden. why are other cats doing this? Is it a territorial thing? Does anybody know? thanks
Question by Joules Evans 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I need emoji, specifically the "💩" (poo emoji) -- shows up great when editing the Instructable, not rendered when Previewed. (Here's the draft: https://www.instructables.com/preview/E3F6RK2I9Q9IGW8/) This is on Windows 7 and Firefox 38.0.5 Happy to use Unicode or HTML entities, but kind of need it for the title! Thanks
Topic by rotormind 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I heard this knock knock joke a few days ago, and it has became my favorite. Here it goes. Knock Knock Who's there? Smellmop. Smellmop who? I like it because it sounds like smell my poo. Anyways, that's my favorite, what's your guys' favorite knock knock joke?
Topic by CLASSIFIEDINFORMATION 11 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I just finished looking at a post about why not to use WD40 or similar products on you pedal bike chain, and I agree with that, as WD40 t is not a lube, it is a cleaner and nut unsticking liquid. I also have heard of people using it as a drying agent to get water out of hard to reach places. WD40 can be used for other things of course, and I am curious as to how many things people use it for. I have used it as a tool cleaner in the past when I worked underground. One shift I found a 12" crescent wrench in a pile of mud. It was dirty, rusty and generally looked like poo. Interestingly if was the exact color of poo too. First I blasted it with compressed air to get the bulk of the mud and crusty rust off. Then I soaked it down with a can of WD40, and blasted it with air again. The improvement in appearance was amazing. The wrench now looked quite good. I repeated this 2 more times. I then oiled it and added it too my tool belt. That wench was better than the one I had on my belt. I used that technique on numerous tools and dirty machine parts after that. Next person with a novel use for WD40 please, and thank you. Zipperboy aka adventureboy7 aka Phil
Topic by zipperboy 10 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Jes' a quick nod t' the wise, mates, the ninteenth o' September be Internat'nl "Talk Like A Pirate day".Now, this don't be compulsory, like (more of a guideline, see?), but I hopes all you gentlemen (and ladies) o' fortune be planning to speak properly that day...Now accordin' t' this 'ere com-poo-tuh, these be the chains ye need to get the lingo, and remember, do it wi' a wannion!If ye be one o' the King's privateers, ye be needin' this site: http://www.yarr.org.uk/An' if'n ye be from the colonies, ye need tae go t' http://www.talklikeapirate.com/
Topic by Kiteman 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
Pets, like kids, learn where to pee n poo. Basic courtousy and hygiene. To what degree this is training, or instinct, I dont know. Once in a blue moon, a pet vomts, coughs up hairballs, just about anywhere in the house, or sneezes in one's face. Since these things are much less frequent, training to do em in the litter box, or into a hanky is less likely to take. Kids eventually learn where to go when nauseous, why not so with dogs, cats, etc. Any idea of how to acheive this higher level of consideration?
Topic by Toga_Dan 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hello! I have a cute little Boston Terrier pup whom I've named Penny. Most of the day she has to spend indoors while I'm at work. I've trained her to use a litter box and she uses it regularly. However, if there is too much poop in the box, she won't use it. I'm wondering if there is a neat tech way to use the internet to control a robotic arm, with a video feed, to pick up the poo, and drop it in a waste bin. I'm thinking about some something like a wifi claw game that I can operate remotely, either from my computer at work, or on my iPhone.
Topic by jmlidea 7 years ago
My driveway runs beside my house, and up to my front porch. When I pule my car in to park, I have just enough space to walk between my open car door and my house. Thats were my cats have started pooping. I have had to start parking off the other side of the driveway, just so my children and I will not step in it. I would like to be able to park my car with out steping in poo. Any ideas. Thanks
Question by gwendolynbender 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Anyone else notice? It started small, then got huge. First, my friend's cell phone somehow got from his pocket to into his backpack, without being touched. My other friend (when changing for PE/weights) noticed he had been walking all day with an ipod cord in his shoe. I found a penny on the ground, put it in my pocket, then it somehow turned into seven pennies when I put my hand back in a minute later. The grand finally, I get a call from mom telling me my neighbor's lung collapsed and to get over there ASAP. Mazee was frantic, everyone was frantic, the door was locked, I stepped in dog poo, the fire truck came, couldn't make it up the long, steep, driveway. The ambulance came, was able to make it up, and took her to the hospital. There, my day all in a nutshell.
Topic by Spl1nt3rC3ll 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
I'm moving into a new house. Decided to move into the loft. Basically, it's the V of the roof, like an attic. I can just barely stand in the center, but I expect to do little more in there than sleep, use the computer (at a desk, IE sitting), and poo (there's a bathroom, weird, huh?). I can use an air mattress, so that's easy. Now I just need ideas for a cheap desk (I'd put the computer on the floor, but I sit for hours, because I'm a lazy-ass and a nerd, so it's gotta be comfy) and a way to store clothes (lotsa shirts, socks, some pants, regular stuff) without big-ass bulky dressers. Everything has gotta fit in an attic-style hole in the ceiling and go up a ladder. Ideas?
Topic by mr_goodbomb 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Why can't Instructables do away with the "removed by author or blah blah blah" thing. It just clutters things up, and doesn't really serve a purpose. If instructables wants the person that made the comment to know it was removed, email them. Any time we have to remove something that can't be edited, it leaves behind this garbage. Before, there was a set rhyme and reason to deleting posts and not having that happen (bottoms up!), but recently I created a post which was the first reply to the first comment in my $1 security hardware instructable, and noticed a glaring error in it and IMMEDIATELY deleted it (because there was no EDIT function) and it left one of these steaming piles of Yak poo in the comment thread. PLEASE - GET RID OF THESE ANNOYANCES! Win7 Ultimate Google Chrome Version 32.0.1700.19 beta-m Aura $1 PC Hardware Security Power Lockout deleting reply
Topic by SuperTech-IT 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Ok, so I've been making a program that tells jokes (just as a test). What I'm trying doesn't work for some reason, and I don't know why. Can you tell me how to fix this, or give me a new code that does the same thing but without a separate .txt file? Here's the code: @echo off title Joke Test color 0a :joke set /a joke=%random% %% 6+1 if %joke%==1 do ( cls echo. echo What is the stupidest animal in the jungle? pause > nul echo. echo The polar bear. pause > nul goto menu ) if %joke%==2 do ( cls echo. echo Where did Mary go after the explosion? pause > nul echo. echo Everywhere! pause > nul goto menu ) if %joke%==3 do ( cls echo. echo Knock knock. pause > nul echo. echo Who's there? pause > nul echo. echo Europe. pause > nul echo. echo Europe who? pause > nul echo. echo No ur a poo! pause > nul goto menu ) if %joke%==4 do ( cls echo. echo A man walks into a zoo. The only animal there is a dog. pause > nul echo. echo It's a shitzhu. pause > nul goto menu ) if %joke%==5 do ( cls echo. echo What do you call a kid with facial deformation? pause > nul echo. echo Names. pause > nul goto menu ) if %joke%==6 do ( cls echo. echo What did the pirate say on his 80th birthday? pause > nul echo. echo Aye matey! pause > nul goto menu )
Question by TheBigRoosterYo 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
A few weeks ago I grabbed the garden hose to top off the pool and noticed how hot the water was as it came out. (the hose had been lying in the sun). So, I decided to put it to good use. We've been looking at solar heaters for the pool but found the prices prohibitive, and being a DIY'er I decided to build my own. I have 50' of black, tangle-free hose coiled on a 2' by 4' piece of Wolmanized, 3/4" plywood. This is perched on top of an 8' 4by4 post which I sunk into the ground near the pool's filter. To feed the hose I installed a faucet in the filter's return line which is under sufficient pressure to travel up and into the hose. The other end comes down to an electric valve before emptying back into the pool. The Arduino portion of the project consists of an Arduino Uno board, a DS18B20 temperature sensor probe, a 12-volt, 3-amp power supply, A small prototype board that holds two 12-volt relays and two 2N3904 transistors which the Arduino triggers, two 12-volt car-type relays which are triggered by the smaller ones, and a Mallory Sonalert. My idea was to have the Arduino monitor the temperature in the return line from the solar hose coil, and when it reaches 80 degrees F, the Sonalert goes off for 5 seconds to warn swimmers that hot water will be coming out of the return spout in the pool. And after the warning sounds, the electric valve then opens for 2 minutes, flushing the warmed water into the pool. Since the system is driven by the pool's filter, the solar hose is replenished during this flush period, and when the valve closes, that new water is then heated, and the whole process starts over. The Arduino code consists of a couple libraries to incorporate and read the temp' probe's output, a subroutine which tests both the Sonalert and the valve when the system is first plugged in, and then the necessary code in the Void Loop section which simply waits for the temp' to reach a preset level and then sound the alert and then open the valve.The system is built into an 8" by 6" electrical box that mounts on the 4 by 4 post just under the solar hose panel.The systems been up and running for about a week now and I've averaged about a 2 degree rise in the pool's water temp' per day.If anyone is interested in seeing photos of the project, or the Arduino code, I'll be happy to provide. UPDATE: Here are some phots of the project...
Topic by bnelson218 11 months ago | last reply 11 months ago
I'm not hugely into music, but I have just come across Seasick Steve (after an appearance on Top Gear!). The CD of I started Out With Nothing and I Still Got Most of it Left arrived in the mail this morning, and is now playing on my Zen, filed next to Walter Trout. I am gobsmacked. This man has been playing this stuff all my life, and I only just find out? That's forty years of enjoyment I have missed out on! Not only is he, frankly, amazing, but he'd fit right in here, because he makes and modifies his own instruments : From wikipedia: As well as an electric guitar and self electrified acoustic guitar, Wold owns (and plays) several obscure and personalised instruments, including: The Three-String Trance Wonder - This is a normal guitar that resembles a Fender Coronado, but with only three strings. It has an old Harmony pickup added (with duct tape) and is tuned to G, G and B using an E string in the A position, a D in the G position and a G in the B position. At his gigs, he often tells the story that he bought it for $75 in this condition in Como, Mississippi from a man named Sherman, who later told him he only paid $25 for it the day before. Wold vowed never to add another string, and that he would tour the world telling his story of how Sherman ripped him off. All in good fun as Sherman Cooper is a good buddy, who gave him the guitar having had it nailed to the wall as a decoration. A lot of the time he also adds (while picking up or putting away the guitar) that it is the "...biggest piece of [poo] in the world, I swear". The One-Stringed Diddley Bow - This is a one stringed string instrument played with a slide (He uses an old screwdriver for this purpose). It consists of a 2 foot long 2x4, with a semi-loose piece of broom wire nailed to it at both ends. It was made especially for him by James 'Super Chikan' Johnson. The 'MDM' (Mississippi Drum Machine) - A small wooden box that is stomped upon, providing percussion. It is decorated with a Mississippi motorcycle license plate ("MC33583"), and a small piece of carpet. Roland Cube Amplifier - Placed on a chair to his left and set to the 'tweed' setting. The Morris Minor Guitar - When on the TV show Top Gear, presenter Jeremy Clarkson commented that Steve's car history of over 100 cars included a Morris Minor. Steve then produced a 4-string guitar that his friend had made out of two old hub caps from the Minor joined back-to-back, playing it a little in the episode. Why are still reading this? Go, listen to it. Now.
Topic by Kiteman 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
(I am planning on doing a forum post for each day of my trip in Japan. The first few days will just be copy pasted from my blog (but now with pictures, and image notes!), and after that I will type up the entry I kept for each day in my journal)I am writing this all on my eee pc, and, while I am getting the hang of this tiny keyboard, typing mistakes are common. I am also in various states of mental functioning so excuse any grammatical errors.I woke up at around 6:45 on Thursday morning. I had been feeling a bit under the weather, and was slightly congested. I really hoped that I did not catch something right before my trip. I woke up the other interns (Bilal, Josh, and Paul), because I knew they would be very sad and might cry, if I did not give them the last chance to say goodbye to me. We did a 4 way shoulder-tap, the universe imploded, and I was off.As I walked down Clementina I realized that it would be the last time I smelled that poo stench on the street. I had mixed feelings about this.The BART ride to SFO was very uneventful. Check in was amazingly fast. The line was short and moved quickly. I had almost everything I was taking with me in my carry-on. There was nothing in my checked baggage but knives and lint (one knife & one swiss tech mulikey). Anyway the whole process of checking in took about 15 minutes. The security checkpoint was even faster. There was no line, and for the first time in a long time I didn't set off the metal detector. I had shown up three hours before my flight to be safe, and I was now left with two hours and forty minutes to kill.I went to the currency exchange and turned 300$ into 27,000 yen. The Lonely Planet guidebook I have (which was printed just last year), has the exchange rate of one USD to 120 Yen, at the exchange booth they offered about 98 Yen for a dollar, google says the current rates are 107 yen to a dollar. Stupid weak American money. Anyway, I used ten dollars which I did not convert to yen to buy an english muffin breakfast sandwich and a gatorade. I went to my terminal, and accidentally dropped the barely touched sandwich on the floor while removing my backpack. I was hungry :(I read for two hours then boarded the plane at around 11. There were many people coughing on this eleven hour flight, so I did not have high hopes for avoiding sickness. Read some more on the flight, watched iron man in Japanese, watched iron man in english, and watched be kind rewind. They served two decent meals, and a few snacks in between. Ten hours later when we were finally over Japan, I went to the back of the plane, and stared out the window in the emergency exit door to get my first view of Japan.We landed around 2 pm on Friday. It was hot, so very hot (humid too). I filled out my customs form, got fingerprinted, and photographed, and made my way over to the baggage claim to pick up my knives. I made my way out of the airport to the train, and bought a ticket for what I hoped was a kanayama station bound train. Turns out it was. (cue the "ding" sound that is played on the audio tracks for slideshows, when it is time to change the slide). The first few pictures are of Kanayama station. There was a cool little inflatable pool, with little kids in miniature paddle boats. They also had a bunch of those water mist sprayers that people stand in front of to cool off.I relaxed at the train station for a bit before I caught the number 12 bus. I took it to the Ishikawa Bashi stop, and got off. I used a pay phone to call up Changmi who I had found on couchsurfing.com. I actually set up the couchsurf with her husband (who was out of town) who said it would be ok for me to stay, so I think she was a little surprised when I called. She said that she was currently hosting two couples who each had a small child. It was cool if I stayed, but it would be crowded. She picked me up at the nearest intersection with her mother, one of the couples, and their child in the car.We drove to downtown Nagoya and they let us out. Changmi and her mother were going somewhere, so I hung out with Sarah, Seba, and their daughter Maya. They were couchsurfers from France who had been in Japan for a couple of weeks. We walked around central park in downtown Nagoya for a bit. There is the large TV tower at one end of the park, and a bunch of art pieces scattered about randomly (metal taco boat thing). We went and got dinner, which I later found out to be pig intestines, with an egg, over rice. It was pretty good.After eating we took the subway back to Changmi's house and slept.Japan Day 2
Topic by Tetranitrate 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.
Topic by Downunder35m 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
I recently had to move house and within two weeks of settling in my cats got attacked by fleas while outside. All the years they had not a single tick or flea so I did not pay too much attention until I spotted the first flea. Needless to say that once you spot one there are many hiding already... From past experience with my dog I did not trust the over the counter flea collars and decided to go to my vet. They recommended Frontline for the treatment, plus a flea bomb to treat the house and washing everything the cats like to sleep on. Came to just under $100AU - ouch... Mind you I have hardwood floors here, so I was quite confident the bomb would could kill all what might remain inside. The cats were kept indoors too to prevent new fleas finding them outside. Well, after two weeks of daily combing for fleas the problem did not get better - it got worse! Seemed they were having parties on my cats. Back to the vet to complain I was told it might take a bit longer to show the desired results. Hmmm, treatment every 4 weeks and after 2 weeks nothing happened?? On the way out an old couple with their two maltesers stopped me and said that they already gave up on Frontline and most other products as the fleas around here are resistant to the meds. They now only use Neem oil that is massaged into the skin and fur of their dogs. Sadly my cats would rather scratch me into meat strips then to let get near them with the oil. So I did some asking around with my friend Google and the story of the old folks seems to be confirmed for most parts of Australia anyway. Most flea collars and over the counter meds might still work to keep fleas away but not anymore to actually treat your pet once infected with more than a handful of fleas. And yes, I am aware of those sprays claiming to kill all fleas instantly but I also know cats like to clean themself and don't like the idea of them liking the spray off the fur. After some more digging I found out that Selamectin is still working and that works in several ways to control fleas and other parasites like heartworm and such. You can look it up on Wiki if you like. What I like about this med is the fact that fleas are really filthy things eating their own excremts. Since the poo is usually everywhere in the fur and hard to remove it makes the killing even easier. Plus in all spots where fles might be hiding but have noone to feed on they still eat their own ..... and die off. My vet only had Revolution available at a price of almost 25 bucks per single dose - no thank you... Instead I decided to bite the bullet and try one of the many online pharmacies for pet supplies. Here I found "Stronghold" containing the above Selamectin similar to Revolution in concetration (bit higher though)... The website stated to expect about 4 weeks for the delivery being xmas season and so on. For me that meant cleaning everything again, using a normal insect bomb again and a last round of washing the cats caves and other items of interest. To my surprise the parcal arrived ten days later, bit banged up but contents still fine. All up the time for the Frontline was over anyway and instead of paying again for a useless treatment I gave the new stuff a try. This was now two weeks ago and here is my summary: Unlike treating with Frontline my cats actually tolerated the application without going mad, the smell is much more pleasant. Did not expect anything to happen the first day and it takes a while to dry off the furr anyway so they got a day free of the dreaded flea comb. During the first week there was little to no indication of anything good happening but it was to be expected as it takes up to 10 days to build up in the blood as well. On day eight I had my first dead fleas in the comb and from here it got more every day. Mostly the adults while the smaller ones still seemd to be active. To the end of the second week I also got dead young ones in the comb indicating the promised break preventing them to grow up actually works. I will still monitor the process and keep up with monthly treatments during the summer. So you might see an update or two later on. How to properly treat your pet and enviroment once you noticed a flea problem. First: Don't panic! If you have carpet or your pets literally go everyhwere like your bed, sofa and so on you want to combine your effords to avoid a fresh infestation from hatching eggs. Ask around or check online if standard meds still have the desired effect in your local area, if not go for a product that does instead of wasting time and money! Spray treatments or insect bombs can work quite well to control what's left behind by your pet but you need to be aware of the life cycle of the pest in question. For most, including fleas, this means a single treatment might not do the trick. See it that way: You treat the animal, clean everything you can and also kill whatever crawls around. But there is still unhatched eggs and living fleas on your pet. So you need or better should repeat the house treatment 8 to 14 days later to get rid of whatever hatched. Garden beds or just your lawn can be a source of problem too, here Neem oil seems to do the trick quite well but you can use other products from your local garden center as well. What kills most harmful insects out there on your plant will do similar on fleas. To get the timing of all treatments right you might want to start on your pet and use a good, normal clean for the house and fabrics. Once you see the fleas go dead on your pet treat the rest. This way you can be sure all fles that make it onto your pet won't survive or produce more viable eggs. Now use whatever suits you to remove or kill the eggs, larvea and crawling fleas around you. If done right and the meds take care of eggs too you won't have any further problems. Regular checks should be done anyway and if you already know fleas are a problem in your area then please continue the treatment on your pet until the season is over. Things you might want to know to calm down a bit and prevent panic: Fleas on your pet are usually only biting them but not you. This does not mean they won't try if you have hundreds of them crawling in your bed. But they won't stay on you and it takes a good amount of bad luck to get bitten instead of just noticing something crawls on you. So the risk of getting some weird desease from an accidental flea bit is slim. When to be careful with a flea infestation? If you are allergic to their excrements or have an otherwise compromised immune system the dust containing flea excrements can cause reactions. So if your pets got you a lot of fleas and you notice breathing problems, red skin areas or itching you should contact your GP to discuss the problem and possible options. Short term a normal paper face mask like used for dust will help, same for anti-histamines if it is an allergic reaction. The best cause of action is to use a vacuum cleaner with HEPA filter on everything that might get into contact with your pets. A standard vacuum cleaner will pick up the extremets too but just blows it out the other end making things far worse.
Topic by Downunder35m 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago