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Am i really secured and anonymous with HOTSPOT SHIELD?? Answered

Question i want to ask that if i have turned on hotspot shield and i run a port scanner will that port scanner data pass by hotspot shield VPN or from my real ip address? I am confused because i have studied somewhere that hotspot shield vpn actually Only encrypt HTTP and HTTPS protocols so if i run nmap port scanner throw Ms dos command line or any other this type of software or tool by ms word will all my traffic pass by VPN or my real ip? I will select the best answer immediately after i get clean explanation from anybody :) Thanks in advance

Question by nomzaf    |  last reply

An old MicroTek Scanner

I just aquired this old scanner yesturday, I thought it was a junker, and AT best, I'd get some good heavy duty servos from it. Well I decided to go through the trouble of getting the old scsi adapter I got with it working (ISA slot). I had to pull out an old 550mhz P2 and whip xp onto it real quick, because the 1ghz p3 I already had setup apparently didn't have ISA slots.After some crazy trouble googling and finding drivers for it (at first all I could find was that the old isa type scsi adapters weren't supported under xp). That was not the case, I got the driver installed and used vuescan to scan the images, I am SURPRISED by the quality of this scanner, especially after I read the specs on MicroTek's Website and with a optical resolution of 600x300dpi, I wasn't that impressed, apparently I was wrong. The speed and clarity of this old beater easily rivals that of my old parellel port scanner, which is probably like 10 years newer than this thing.Check it out.

Topic by Punkguyta    |  last reply

How can I make a scanner camera with a dead flatbed scanner?

I found this link: and it just so happened that my printer/scanner had just died. It still powers on, but the driver software completely refuses to see it. So I figured I'd try to make one.- I guess one of the circuit boards in my scanner is dead, so I won't be able to use the scanner's electronics to drive the CCD. I did manage to pull it out unharmed though. It connects via a 12-pin ribbon cable, so I figured I'd just drive it via a couple of parallel ports, or maybe a microcontroller if I get bored enough to learn how to use them. I have no idea which pins on the ribbon cable do what though, any idea where I'd go to find this? (The printer is a Dell Photo 944.)- The person in the link above seems to have a different kind of CCD which is much smaller than mine. Mine is long and thin (and like every other scanner CCD I've seen except that one); I have no idea how I'd get a lens on it. Any thoughts?

Question by scgtrp    |  last reply

reusing scanner lamp w/o heavy duty adapter?

I've been trying to do something similar to these!/I want the lamp to work without a heavy duty ac to dc adapter, but it looks like there's no practical power cord that has low enough voltage. I've tried using a basic voltage converter (;=electronics&qid;=1209273618&sr;=1-20 ) set at 12 volts, but the bulbs don't light.Does anyone know if there's a way to do this without the giant adapter, or if there's a way to light the bulbs using a USB connection? I've looked online, and the only thing I've seen is this: but they're using a male molex connection. I'm just looking for a plug that's a little more practical: an electrical outlet being my first choice, a usb port being my second.Thanks!

Topic by seebrown    |  last reply

What should i do with a pda and a old scanner? Answered

Good day Instructables :)    I have a old Acer Scanner 620 (flatbed scanner) and a pda. the old scanner is too old to be compatible (remember that parallel port is dead long time ago) and the pda has a broken On button and the battery is damage. What should i use these materials for?    What can i do with them? Should i turn them into a spy camera (but i don't how to do that...) or something like that? I want to use them for something besides throwing into the rubbish Please help? Here are the photos of the pda and the scanner:=

Question by Peter5465    |  last reply

(newsletter) Cake Pops, Book Scanner, Office Pranks...

Sign-up for this newsletter: Welcome back! Epilog Challenge - Help choose who wins an Epilog laser cutter! Vote now! Klutz Rubber Band-Powered Contest - What's the best rubber band-powered Instructable of them all? Vote now! Earthjustice United States of Efficiency Contest - Create an energy-saving Instructable and you could win a MacBook Pro! The ThinkGeek Hacks Contest winners have been announced. See who won! Cake Pops Self Watering Garden - Using Recycled Water Steampunk Segway (Legway) DIY High-Speed Book Scanner from Trash Win a MacBook Pro!Closes on May 6! Vote now! Build an Ultra Efficient Fridge Make Delicious Coffee Liqueur Recycled 55 Gallon Barrel Chair Save Water! Kitchen Faucet with Foot Pedal Featured questions from our new Answers section: Physical and electrical engineering. What is a good thing to start with? Can a DC motor from an electric scooter generate power? Homemade Grey Water System Make Killer PCBs Ecological Cardboard Laptop Case Build a Foundry and sand-cast Aluminum Help choose the winners! Sailing the seas for free How to Redecorate the Office ATX Power Supply Mod With USB Ports Make a Female Game Character from Wax Turn an Office into the Beach Sign-up for this newsletter:

Topic by fungus amungus  

CNC help - Software?

I'm planning on building a X-Y CNC machine.  The issue is softwares.  My plan was to get 2 scanners, and rip out the stepper motors.  Then, as seen on an instructables, use a parallel port with 2 or 3 ULN2003 chips to control the motors. My idea was to do as they did, and use TURBO-CNC to controll the parallel ports, unless there's something better to use? Can TURBO-CNC read G-Codes?  If so, what is the best program to use for creating G-Codes? This project is starting with a 1W blue laser as a etcher / paper cutter CNC.  It it going to be used for getting my machine tuned up.  Once things are in good order, It's going to be turned into a 60W acrylic / 1mm aluminum / thin wood cutter.

Topic by Killa-X  

How do I drive a 4 wire stepper motor?

Hi, Im thinking of making a small CNC machine to make PCBs. Just the other day, I opened up an old scanner and found this stepper motor with 4 wires. The wires are orange, yellow, light brown, and red. The info on the motors label is: STH-39D1126 1.8 DEG/STEP  4.1 Ohms No. 18752G How can I drive this? Can I use an arduino, serial or parallel port? Thanks,  Nadav

Question by nadav    |  last reply

If I use the serin command where is the serial data stored? Answered

 I am trying to get a GPS module outputting NMEA sentences in ASCII through a serial port to to store it's once per minute output in my picaxe 18X. From here i hope to read these sentences and using a look up table assign each letter or number that has been read a morse code form. This will then be sent to a 433mhz radio module and received on a scanner. I have programmed standard pics before but only using standard inputs and don't really understand where or in what form variables are stored on the picaxe chip so am therefore a bit confused as to how to go about using the serin command. Thanks for any help!

Question by harrier07    |  last reply

E-Ink (or LCD?) keychain fob

(or: one fob to rule them all)problem: too damned many keychain fobs for all the supermarket and other retail discount clubseach one is designed to be nothing more than advertisement on one side (store logo) and a bar code on the other.solution: electronic keychain that can be programmed to display a store’s logo and discount club’s UPC code. a small LCD might work, but would be difficult to properly scan with bar code scanner. plus, LCDs drain batteries whenever they’re on.something like electronic ink would work better. it’s more reflective, only uses batteries when changing the pixels, and the display only needs to be black and white, so why bother with LCD?( whole thing could be really tiny, needing only the controls to scroll through the programmed UPCs, the display itself (maybe .5′’ x 1.25′’), a small battery and a mini-USB port (for plugging into a computer to program in the UPC codes).anybody want to build me one? my keychain’s getting a little cramped.

Topic by option8    |  last reply

Wired remote shutter release for camera w/o micro stereo plug?

Hello, I'm not sure if this is the right forum, but what I'm looking to create is a wired remote shutter release for a camera that does not have a micro stereo plug.  Existing instructables for remote shutter releases depend on the use of a stereo plug but this is not something my camera has. In particular, the camera is a Kodak Easyshare Z1012 IS and there are no accessories for the camera that permit remote shutter release (at least according to Kodak and through my google searches.  There is an "A/V OUT" USB plug, but the device is not recognized when connected to a computer and I have no clue what this plug is for).  I plan to use the camera itself in a book scanner setup.  I would simply buy a new camera with remote shutter release functionality if I could part with the money for one (in addition the camera is absolutely fine aside from the fact that it drains the batteries completely after 5 pictures, but I have a wall plug for it so that's not an issue). If you take a look at the camera in the above picture, you can see that there's simply a button on top of the camera to take a picture (like just about any other camera--the round, silver one in the upper left and closest to viewer in the above picture).  What I would like to have is a device which will "strap on" to the camera overtop that button, and which when "activated" will exert enough force to press the button.  Of course there will need to be a cord leading off of that "strapped on" device to a handheld clicker of some sort. The problem is that I have no knowledge of electronics or mechanical things--I have no idea what I could buy, modify, and then use at my disposal to accomplish the above.  This is where I was hoping the members of this forum could provide direction.  I don't expect that the solution should be spelled out word for word for me, but any ideas would be very helpful and then I can hopefully tie together the loose ends. Now, I have a soldering iron and I know well enough how to use it, but my experience is limited to simply following online tutorials step-by-step (e.g. one time I took the camera out of a UMPC and soldered in a full-size USB port, but why it worked and the thought process necessary to determine whether or not it would work in the first place are not very clear to me). A friend of mine thought that I might be able to use a "solenoid" of some sort to accomplish this (first time I had heard of such a thing, but I think I have a relatively good idea of what one is after looking into it). Likewise, if there's a better way to accomplish the above, then I'm all ears.  Maybe there is a way that I can take apart of the camera's button and set something purely mechanical up where by applying a contact to the right area results in the same effect as pressing the button.  I'll be taking apart the camera in the mean time to see what I can find.

Topic by asdfffdsa    |  last reply

Freebies from the local dump

Well guys, I was tired of being told by different friends of mine that there's lots of goodies to be found sometimes out at my local dump, including a shed FULL of crts, some still in the bag I'm told. I finally got the motivation to make it out there, I had to ask the attendant where to find the computer stuff as the only shed I found had some furniture and old electronics (I was tempted to take this OLD ibm scanner, looked like it was right outta the 80's). She pointed me over to a pile of computer towers, satellite receivers (a scary amount of receivers) and some other crap, all in the sNOW!!! I was a little disgruntled to see it all in the snow there, as there was A LOT of towers. Aside from finding a working 16 port rack mount ethernet switch, a good handful of cpus I removed from some towers, and some PC133 ram (not useful to most, but it has a better use than SODIMM ram ever will these days). One of the first things I seen was an lcd monitor sitting upside down in the snow bank, I ran over to it like it was an abandoned baby in the snow. It didn't look like it had seen the snow too long, so I picked it up and tossed it in the car thinking at the most it would make a nice laptop stand out of the folding base on it. Well upon getting it home, drying it with a towel and letting it warm up to room temperature, I plugged it in and was very EXCITED to see "no signal" faintly on the screen, the backlight was shot.... I got my thinkpad out and hooked it up to see if the entire screen worked and that it wasn't cracked or something, sure enough, the whole screen lit up with the desktop for a second, then off. Frustrated, I simply kept turning the video output of my laptop on and off, and just from cycling it on and off, I got the backlight tubes to kick to life!!! I moved it to my desktop and got rid of my 19 inch crt, so I had room for this 19 inch lcd :P Later I noticed a bit of water in the screen so I shut it off, however when I went to use it later, the image would only flash on for a split second, then off again, then back on, and so on. I dissembled it today and can't find a single cap on the board that's blown (visually), and the only discoloration of the pcb is on the bottom, beneath a transformer, so I figure it's probably an okay amount of discoloration as a transformer will often make enough heat to do so. I plugged it in, and begun turning it on with only certain backlight tubes plugged in (theres 4 cables so I have to assume 4 tubes, one on each side of the screen, I also just found out you shouldn't let the unplugged leads too close to the socket on the PCB, it WILL ARC, the high voltage label etched into the pcb means business.) It would make some high pitched whining noises, the lcd would be doing it's flickering thing, sometimes the image would come up garbled, and then shortly after it started going garbled, it would kick on and stop making the high pitched noises, so I moved it back onto my desk still dissembled, and upon leaving the room long enough for the lcd to shut off, I came back to the same problem, and had to fiddle with it again to get it turned on (I'm using it right now :) What is it that makes these lcd's do this?, I know most problems with lcds are from the power inverter, and also when the backlights burn out (Hell only one could work for all I care, this thing is so bright it hurts the eyes). This is a 19" viewsonic lcd, and I did do some googling, one person noted for a similar model he tried replacing all 8 caps on the board (We have diff boards, but he said to replace all of them to be sure), he then said he was going to try replacing one of the mosfets, and that he would let us know how it went, still hasn't replied yet. I feel bad for posting this without pictures, but I don't have any good batteries around the house for my digital camera, I plan to get some pictures by the end of the day, but until then, perhaps you guys can tell me what it is you would like to see/need to see to help me figure this out. A free LCD guys, and it turns on to a usable state, so I KNOW it's worth fixing, sorry if I seem flabbergasted or something like I'm off my cradle, but an upgrade to LCD is awesome for me, I'm so used to using my crt's and I'm finding the crispness of the image very nice to look at.

Topic by Punkguyta  

Tracking down the speed problems on a laptop.

I've copied the conversation here so we could remove the information from the original instructable's comments.  I figure this would also be of some interest to other forum viewers who may have similar problems, or may be able to chip in. The long and short of it is, 92033 (Ed) has a refurbished laptop that takes literal hours to run a YouTube video on.  I suspect that it's due to a bottleneck with his internet connection.  Here's the conversation thus far: ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033 (Ed): Thank you kindly for your prompt reply...appreciate it very much. I came across this site by accident in searching for something else and now I'm 'hooked' on it. :) So far I've read over 400 archived posts (whew) well as looking at the videos. The videos are somewhat of a problem because this new laptop only has 512 mg memory...LOOOOOng time to load. For watch a SLOW 5-minute You Tube video takes 5-1/2 HOURS to load...keeps showing a couple words at a time...need to get two new memory chips to upgrade to 2gb. Thanks again...Take care. ---------------------------------------------------------------- eddems: I think you're basic download speed is killing ya, not the laptop. check you're speed at, if you see the link near the bottom for the old test, run it, I like it's graph of upload and download speed much better. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much. I'll check it out. I ordered a 1gb SDRAM Memory chip which just arrived yesterday. Hope this speeds things up a bit. ---------------------------------------------------------------- harley_rly: i hear u man, my computer is hopped up, but i live out in the sticks and have dialup...i only get 24kbps at most :( ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Maybe there's hope for 'us' yet. :-) I phoned Tiger Direct to see cost of an upgrading memory chip to go from 512mg to 1-1/2gb. The guy I talked to suggested I get "PC TUNEUP 2.0" which bypasses the Windows Operating System (I'm using Windows XP Pro) and speeds up the system. I gave it a try and ordered the CD (cost $39.98 - $44.77 postpaid). It hasn't arrived yet but will let you know if it helps as he claims it will. He said that if I just ordered a 1gb memory chip my system wouldn't notice much improvement as it is, but this CD should do the trick. THEN...when I DO order the Memory chip(s) to get total of 2gb my system should zip through like a rocket with the CD just ordered. I'll let you know when I get the CD and about the results. Just hope I haven't thrown forty-five bucks to the wind. Thanks for the contact...appreciate hearing from you. TAKE CARE. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: PC Tune-Up "bypasses the Windows Operating System?" This guy fed you a load of crap. (I work on computers for a living.) PC Tune-Up does nothing more than clean up registries, defragment harddrives (if your OS even needs it, some don't) and keeps drivers up to date (which you could do manually.) That guy's an idiot, or just a liar. Could be both. Unless you were buying PC Tuneup 2.0 from Tiger Direct, in which case we can add "sleazy salesman" to that. What are the specs of the laptop? Go to Start/Run and type in DXDIAG. This will give you a quick snapshot of the specs. Specifically, I'm curious as to the processor speed/type. For a 5 1/2 hour "load" you're more likely looking at network slowdown issues (although 512 megs for XP is WAYYYY too little. I HATE when they put PCs together like that). The RAM upgrade will show significant speed increases, but no improvement with YouTube videos or other downloads. I'm glad to see you are returning the CD. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much for your input...appreciate it very much. I checked the DXDIAG as you recommended. Here's the info on it: IBM ThinPad Laptop PC. Model # 23738TU. Intel Premium M 1.70GHZ. 512mb SDRAM Memory chip.Page File- 351mb used,513 mb available. Direct Version-Directx 9.00 (4.09.0000.0904). 512 mb SDRAM-Actual 212 Ram. AVAST Anti-Virus. MS Windows XP-PRO.. Dialup Speed-40kbps. PC2700 SDRAM 512mb Memory Chip installed. I ordered 1bb memory chip which arrived yesterday. Now I have to figure out HOW to remove the bottom of this laptop to install it...lotta small screws on it. :-) Oh, total memory shows 32mb. I don't know if this means much to you. I note your comment that the added RAM memory WONT (?) speed up loading YouTube videos? Is that correct? If so, why not? Thanks again. Take care. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: :) At the risk of boring too many people, here's how memory in a PC works: You have two kinds of memory: RAM, and Hard Drive (technically there's three, as there's also onboard video RAM on video cards, but this is primarily used for 3D video game textures, so can be mostly ignored.) Your harddrive's read/write speed is determined by the type of harddrive it is (most are SATA now) and the rotation speed (most are 7200 RPM, though the specs for your system say yours is only 5400 RPM, but there are 10, 15, and even 20K rpm models out there that are exponentially more expensive.) No matter what, harddrive memory will always be degrees slower than RAM. RAM on the other hand is a small chunk of memory that is "temporary" memory, but very fast. Its speed is determined by the type of RAM (DDR2 being the current common one for notebooks, though DDR3 is available with some motherboards (you can ignore this, though, as you can only handle 2 gigs max of DDR with your system). The motherboard will determine the limits for the RAM that can be installed.) When running *ANYTHING* on your computer, and I mean ANYTHING, it must first be loaded into RAM to be accessed by the CPU. The computer doesn't directly access the harddrive. So this means when your operating system is loaded (Windows XP) the entirety of all running processes for the OS have to be loaded into RAM. Now, Microsoft claims that Windows XP only requires a minimum of 64 megs of RAM, but recommends 128 megs. I challenge you to find me a Windows XP system that only uses 128 megs out of the box. It's not atypical for an XP system to chew through all 512 megs of your RAM, leaving no RAM available for other applications. (Interestingly, the default setup for your laptop is only 256 megs of RAM, yet yours is reporting 512.) What happens when there's no RAM left? The system has to then start trading things into what is called "Virtual Memory." VM is nothing more than a file on the harddrive that will temporarily hold information that SHOULD be in RAM, so the RAM can load more info. For instance, say you have a process that's using RAM, but you want to watch your YouTube video. As the video is ready to play, the system will take the other process's data that's in RAM, write it to the harddrive, load your video into RAM in its place, play a portion of it, write the video to the harddrive, load the data for the process to RAM, let it run for a split second (so it doesn't lock up), write it back to the harddrive, load your video into RAM and play a short clip, etc. etc. etc. The result of low RAM on your system is that applications will open slowly (seconds or minutes, instead of instantly or a few seconds) and they will seem slow to respond, will stutter, etc. With enough RAM, your system can freely open as much as it needs into RAM, and ignore the virtual memory and all the slowdowns that it causes. Now, all of this being said, NO lack of RAM will cause a streaming video to take 5 1/2 hours to play. This is 100% going to be related to your downspeed. (Go to and post your results.) RAM slowdowns tend to be most noticeable when shutting down, or starting up your computer, apps will open a little more slowly, they will be slower to respond to button clicks, and video will be very choppy. Anything that is causing a YouTube video to take HOURS will be due to the system simply waiting to get the video in the first place. RAM wouldn't slow down the receiving of the video, but it would cause the video to play weird once it's downloaded. So, all this being said, here's the summary: Your system has a 1.7 Ghz processor, and your RAM is most likely 333 Mhz DDR. If you bump your memory up to a gig, you should see a pretty significant improvement in that your computer will, overall, just "feel" faster. It'll be more responsive, and working with large documents will be many, many times faster. This won't, however, affect your YouTube experience (unless you were getting jittery video often, not the same as "buffering" video.) If you see "buffering" for a long time, your internet connection is your bottleneck. A test on will likely confirm this. However, if you get decent numbers on SpeedTest, then we could have something more sinister going on, though I suspect you'll find your numbers well below the 1 mbps rate. This brings us to actually changing the RAM. I've been out of the PC hardware realm (professional programmer now) for a few years, and was unable to find a manual for your particular model. However, if memory serves, this image should be a fairly accurate representation of the underside of your system: Don't quote me, but I BELIEVE the red circle will indicate the only screw you will need to remove to access the RAM. There should also be a small clip holding the RAM in place that you'll want to pinch to get the RAM out, and make sure that the new RAM snaps into place. (Sometimes you'll have additional empty RAM beds, and you can just put your RAM in there and end up with 1.5 gigs, but I suspect you'll have two 256 gig chips in there.) ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Phew. Thanks again for your most indepth educational lesson. I appreciate all your help more than you realize. I attempted to answer this last night, typing in more than twice the amount of text as your to me, then suddenly realized there was a glitch and I was on another page...lost it all into the ionisphere. :-( Rather than try to retype all I wrote, I shut 'r down and went to sleep. Now I'm trying to recall all I wrote last night but failed to get mailed. I'm not a traditional typist, rather a one-finger bloke so you can understand the frustration there. I do, however, type at a reasonably good speed. With that said, let's continue. I went to search for Configuration of this IBM Laptop ThinkPad 23738TU and am copy and pasting it here. It's relevant to what I have to it is: ********************************************************************************** Overview Specs Features Includes Warranty Supplies IBM ThinkPad T42 2373 Specifications Part # 23738TU Key Specifications IBM ThinkPAD T42 2373 Manufacturer IBM Manufacturer Part # 23738TU Processor Type Intel Pentium M 735 1.7 GHz Data Bus Speed 400 MHz Cache Memory Type L2 cache Installed Size 2 MB RAM Installed Size 256 MB Technology DDR SDRAM Memory Speed 333 MHz System Type Notebook Storage Hard Drive 40 GB, 5400 rpm Storage Controller Type IDE Optical Storage Type DVD ROM Read Speed 24x (CD) / 8x (DVD) Display Type 14.1" TFT active matrix Graphics Processor / Vendor ATI MOBILITY RADEON 7500 Video Memory 32 MB Max. Resolution 1024 x 768 Audio Output Type Sound card Audio Codec AD1981B Compliant Standards DirectSound, AC '97, SoundMAX Telecom Modem Fax / modem Max. Transfer Rate 56 Kbps Protocols & Specifications ITU V.90 Networking Networking Network adapter Data Link Protocol Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet Expansion Expansion Slots Total 1 x front accessible Expansion Slots Total 2 ( 1 ) x memory 1 ( 1 ) x CardBus - type II Interfaces 1 x docking / port replicator, 240 pin docking 2 x Hi Speed USB, 4 pin USB Type A 1 x parallel, IEEE 1284 (EPP/ECP), 25 pin D Sub (DB25) 1 x display / video, VGA, 15 pin HD D Sub (HD 15) 1 x infrared, IrDA 1 x modem, phone line, RJ11 1 x network, Ethernet 10BaseT/100BaseTX, RJ45 1 x display / video, S video output, 4 pin mini DIN 1 x microphone, input, mini phone mono 3.5 mm 1 x headphones, output, mini phone stereo 3.5 mm Miscellaneous Features Locking device keyhole (cable lock), administrator password, hard drive password, power-on password, asset ID, IBM Embedded Security Subsystem 2.0 Compliant Standards ACPI 2.0, ACPI 1.0b, FCC Class B certified, CE, MPR II, UL, BSMI, cUL, NOM, VCCI-II Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional Software Included Adobe Acrobat Reader, PC Doctor, IBM Rapid Restore Ultra, IBM Update Connector, InterVideo WinDVD, IBM Access Connections, IBM Access Support, Access IBM,(OEM) Battery Technology lithium ion Capacity 4400 mAh Average Run Time 5 hour(s) Installed Qty 1 Ambient Temperature Min Operating Temperature 50 °F Max Operating Temperature 90 °F Humidity Range Operating 8 - 80% Dimensions (W x D x H) Unit 12.2 in x 10 in x 1.1 in Weight Unit 4.9 lbs Warranty 3 Years Limited Warranty on parts and labor. IBM 23738TU Summary ********************************************************************************* NOTE...I DON'T BELIEVE THIS...I JUST TYPED FORTY MINUTES REPLY HERE and it instantly scrolled up like speed of lightning and disappeared like last night. I'll ATTEMP to try again later. So please don't reply yet as you need to read my discoveries in changing the RAM chip. Meanwhile, thanks again...take care. ~ ED ******************************************************************************* TRY #3...I'm Back :-) Your diagram showing where the RAM chip is located was right on. Thanks. Here's my DISCOVERY :-( The RAM chip installed was NOT a 512mg...but only a 256mg chip. The ads ans specs say it's a 512mg...NOT SO. I was lied to by either the manufacturer or refurbishing company who removed the original 512 chip and reinstalled a 256 chip. I was lied to by the Tiger Direct guy on the phone. There are NOT two chip slots...only one. So I now have a useless removed 256mb RAM chip. Replaced with the 1gb RAM chip I just installed. So instead of having 1-1/2 gb RAM, I only have 1gb. Here's the crux. To. go to 2gb RAM I'd need to buy a full 2gb RAM CHIP and discard the 1gb for which I just paid $39.99 ($45.00 with s/h). This means another output of almost a hundred dollars plus the $45.00 just wasted because they wont accept return once the sealed chip plastic was opened...even though I had no idea there was only ONE SLOT in this PC instead of TWO like the Tiger Guy said. Now...crux #2...this new 1gb RAM does nothing more to increase speed. I just watched a 2.01 MINUTE YouTube video which took a HALF HOUR to load, so I threw the money away for nothing, eh? There is no noticeable change except the 'speed' shows it now as 41.2 kbps instead of 40 kbps. HOW do I get to speed this thing up to normal viewing in real time? I also saw an ad for 4bg RAM Gateway laptop with 120gb hard drive for $404.99 which is all suped-up with everything. I had to upgrade a LOT since I got this only four months ago...taking over a hundred hours to load it, like Internet Explorer 5 to 6 and then to 8 and now to 9. I'm using AVAST Anti-Virus, after trying for 23 hours to get ADVAR, then find out it didn't load because of problem on the servor's end. Added Firefox and upgraded twice. Loaded MS Protection but it created more problems so I deleted with AVAST which I like. Soooo...I've literally spent over 200 hours to get this thng where it's at now, plus the wasted money for the upgraded RAM chip.and I still don't have increased speed. HOW do I get it? IF the processor has to be changed does this mean I have to gut the thing and install a new motherboard? If so, what kind of money cost are we talking here? I bought this four months ago as a refurbished unit only because I was able to get it on payments of only $25.00 a month. If I had to wait to get $400.00 cash I'd never have it. :-) Okay...that's it for the moment. Thanks much again for your help offering and detailed instructions...appreciate it more than you realize. Best Wishes And God's Blessings To You And Yours In Everything Always. Most Respectfully... ~ ED  ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: Well, let's start with the RAM. If you're running windows XP, you can assume all the extra processes (virus scanners, and whatnot) will be eating up about 512 megs of the RAM. First thing to do is check DXDIAG again (start/run) and verify that it's now reporting the correct amount of RAM. (Don't be surprised if it's like 9 hundred something megs or slightly more. It won't report 1024 or 1 gig.) This being said, that will leave you with the other 512 for your applications. This box won't be running the latest and greatest 3D games, but I suspect it was never intended to. If the heaviest hitter you'll have running is along the lines of photoshop, the 1 gig of RAM you have now should be plenty sufficient. I wouldn't worry about getting 2 gigs. Not for this rig, anyway. Also, Avast is a great (and free) virus protection, every bit as good as Symantec's Norton, so good choice there. If your youtube videos are choking out, we need to start by verifying that it's an actual speed throttling problem. Go to and run the speed test. Come back with the results.

Topic by Javin007    |  last reply