I'm building a solar powered lighting for a farm, what will be the power consumption for a 10 white led.
Topic by yousaf65 | last reply
Sorry if this is stupid, but I have always been curious about this. Since mains generators run constantly (or I assume they do...) does it matter whether or not you leave you electrical appliances on? Like people who say turn the lights off when you leave a room so that you save power. But the generators still go if your lights are on or not, so you're not really wasting energy, are you?
Question by 7654321 | last reply
Hello everybody,I'm new here (hopefully no mistakes yet) and I just decided to upgrade my preexistent solar system but know very little about.My first question (of probably many to come) is: how do you calculate watts hour of something like a fridge or a freezer?I'm looking to buy the most energy-efficient fridge on the market which is rated 299kwh per year.What is the Watt Hour?Many thanks.
Question by RobB226 | last reply
I have a geocache project and need help with the power supply and power consumptin inside it. The basics of the project: It is a large wooden box. The box has a on/off switch. It also has various various coin slots. Flip the switch, turning it on, to supply power to the solenoid inside. Dropping a coin through the correct slot will trigger a momentary micro switch which activates the solenoid and springs out the drawer of treasures. Take your loot. Close the drawer. Turn off the switch and leave it for the next adventurer. And it works! Yay! Commoonents the question: The solenoid is a 12v door latch solenoid. https://www.adafruit.com/products/1512 The battery is a 12v 5ah sealed lead acid battery. The coin micro switch is: https://www.adafruit.com/products/820 My question. This geocache that lives, protected, about 3 blocks from my house. I obviously won't be charging the 12v battery very often. Since this setup only has momentary power draw once in a while. Say once a week. Maaaaaaybe. Does anyone have any alternate power recommendations? I am okay with changing out the batteries once in a while. But I'm hoping for a once every few months. I originally used a new lead acid battery but it seems to have died. Possibly from letting the charge fall to low and then sulfation occured. I'm considering using a 11.1V Lipo Rc battery instead so I can recharge it at various levels of depletion. Thing is I need it to last a worth while amount of time without loosing power but also killling the battery from just sitting there. Thoughs woukd be GREATLY appreciated. -McG
Question by McgCache | last reply
I need to power 62 LEDs in series. Does this mean I also need 62 1K resistors? And if I do, does that mean I need a 248V power supply?! Isn't each LED a 2V power consumption as well as each resistor? That math doesn't seem to add up at all, any help (and lessons in powering LEDs) is greatly appreciated. Thank you for the help!
Question by Schmidtn | last reply
I have a led bulb which is 5w and I also have a homemade light bulb powered by a phone charger say also 5w. Question is Am I really saving any energy by using a phone charger unit it states it uses 5w? am I using 5w while is plugged 5w or am I using mAX OF 5W OF IT? DOES IT ALSO use 5w when it is only plugged but not powering my led bulbs . bulbs 5v 1 amp, 50 leds. thanks in advance. Also do you know a way to make a water proof glue at home?
Question by celalboz | last reply
I have heard that an electronic speed controller (esc) uses some power continuously even at zero throttle. What I was told was about 0.5 amps, but it seems like it would be different based on size, voltage, etc... My UAV has two 20 amp ecs's being powered by two 4.4 Ah 11.1 volt batteries and it will need to land and sit with the power on for 3 hours after flying 2 miles and then fly back. At 0.5 amps the 3 hour sit will waste 3 Ah. I will probably need to set it up so the esc's are unpowered at zero throttle but everything else will remain powered. Does anyone know a way to calculate about how much current the esc will burn at zero throttle if you know what battery, esc, and motor you have? Or do I need to measure it directly to know?
Question by Jaycub | last reply
Hi, I have read about technical specification of a thermoelectric peltier TEC1-12726 . The U max =15v , I max =26.3 and Qc max =257.27w. I would like to know about the cooling power in wat(cooling generating). It seems that the power consumption is about 400w. I have heard that thermoelectric peltiers have good and high efficiency. I need some more information about any other powerfull peltiers with high efficiency to build an air condition unit. I need to make sure the power is the cooling power and/or power consumption. I would be so grateful to have some good suggestions and ideas as well. Regards Kevin
Question by sajadi007 | last reply
Hello All, I am using an 1KVA Voltage stabilizer for my Fridge. The power quality is really poor here in India, and these things are mandatory. I learnt the lesson hard way :-(.... Well that aside, i would like to know what would be the power loss or Extra consumption these devices use when regulating power. Actually,i could use a general lecture on how Stabilizers work!
Topic by Zen Innovations | last reply
Dear Gang, I have a bi-color t1 red/green LED that has 3 legs in it, I was wondering what is the voltage requirement and wattage that it can work with.Does anyone knows the answer? Thanks
Question by mitchiko | last reply
I am getting ready to rewire my house and want to do so in such a manner that a motion detector or timer shuts down most of the outlets in a room so that the phantom use of electricity or the abuse of same by teens is reduced (I am being realistic here). The Electrician thinks I am short a few bricks of a load so to speak. Lights he understands, plug load nada. I've seen something similar done in Europe when traveling where your hotel room powered down when you weren't in it and powered up with your key card in the slot when you were in it. I want to shut off all the power in the room when it is empty during periods of sleep except for one outlet which would power the clock/lamp and of course fire alarms. Help me out here.
Topic by crickenwood | last reply
I'm working on some fused glass projects for sale, and I'm trying to figure my kiln's electrical consumption into the price of the items as accurately as possible. I can easily figure the max draw of the kiln, but it's not running full tilt throughout the whole fusing cycle. In fact, through much of the cooldown phases, it hardly comes on at all. I don't want to grossly overestimate and gouge the customers, but I also dont want to underestimate and lose money on the sales. I also don't want to buy a 220v wattmeter that I'll never use again. I don't need super-precise measurements, just reasonably accurate ones. Is there a feasible alternative to a wattmeter for this application?
Question by RavingMadStudios | last reply
I recently installed some set of new batteries for a telecom firm with the aim of achieving hybrid on the site in order to reduce diesel consumption and operational cost. After three days of installation and being charged by a rectifier for maximum performance,i decided to activate hybrid on the site and to my disappointment the back up time only lasted for three hours. Pls advice me on what to do......thanks
Question by azumi olu | last reply
I recently had to start learning how to service airconditioners on the fast and that learning got me thinking about my portable coolers.... Some of us like to go camping or on longer fishing trips, so there might be one of those 3-way fridges in use or a better cmpressor model. The one thing they all have in common is that they can only cool down to a difference in ambient temperatures. No matter which way we turn it the cooling produces heat and that needs to get away somehow. The other big thing is the cooling cycling - or the lack of it on a warm day. After some reading and thinking I came up with some ideas that might be applicable to your existing cooler if you are willing to mess around a bit. Let's start with the produced heat, shall we? Down here in Australia most people either have the fridge in their4WD or camper. In a car or small camper trailer there is often the problem of airflow, so the cooler might be doing overtime for no other reason than a lack of airflow. If you check online sites like Amozon and Ebay you quickly find fan systems meant to be installed inside the cooler to get lower temperatures and a quicker cooling of fresh goods. The thing is that the box is quite well insulated and the benefit of the airflow goes only as far as it can reach. And even if the box is quite empty and you would have a benefit of the cold air moving around it won't change the fact that "improved" cooling always comes with more heat in this case. But if we use one of these fan systems to actually improve the airflow on the hot side we not only get better cooling but also a reduce power consumption - something worth considering if you have no backup power generator.... This of course brings us to placement. As I have done the mistake myself you might be tempted to put a 3way cooler onto your seat. Opening it with the back free means the lid always gets stuck on the seat, do it the other way around and you block the airflow. If you do put it on the seat then make sure two things match: 1. The thing is secured properly. 2. The airflow from your aircon is able to reach the hot side of the cooler. Even permanent installations in a camper benefit from a good airflow. Often the fridge or freezer is built into some sort of bench and the airflow behind might be very limited. A simple solution here is to add a vent on top of the bench to allow the hot air to escape. A better one is to use a fan that is powered together with the heating element or compressor and drives the hot air to the outside. How to improve the cold side of the box or fridge? Well, to be honest there is not much that can be done unless you are prepared for some serious work. Depending on compartment size, contents and how full it is a little fan can help to keep the temperatures even but it won't help to get it cooler or reduce the cycling periods for the cooling. The only really working way that I found is to use a "battery" for the storage of the cold. The cooling works by checking the inside temp of the box and if above the set temp the cooling won't stop. This is all well and good while we have a constant supply of power but once we are on batteries it would be great to keep the active time to a minimum. A working solution is to build a container that fits around the cooling element. Smaller types often use an aluminium heatsink, bigger types might come with a compressor and an evaporator. In either case proper sealing is important! Most good models are fully waterproof, meaning even if you would fill them with water they would not leak in other areas than the door. But double check and if in doubt use a bit of silicone to make sure. Ok, but how do we "store" the cold coming from the device? Cold packs ;) These things contain a ready to use mix that holds cold temperatures quite well. Another really good alternative is alcohol or radiator coolant, although the last has limited capabilites in terms of holding capaity for the cold as it is desinged to exchange heat fast rather than to keep it. With a suitable sized and sealed box around the active cooling element we will need longer to actually see any cooling happen (with a warm "battery") but that can be compensated for by good planning or a frozen water bottle. If the cooling element is covered with a box of cooling gel then it has to cool this first before anything happens inside the box. But once it does the pack is already far below the normal temp it would have during normal operation. Remember the inside of the cold pack cools down first before the outside will get cold ;) So once the set temperature is reached the device will shut off. But since the cold pack is far below the set temp it will continue to cool our box until the core is warmer than the set temp. Quick thinkers will now say the benefit is lost as the time required to cool the "battery" down again is much longer than the normal cycle time - and they would be correct. But as we get much colder temps inside the gel box the overall running will still be less compared to normal operation. And since from the second cycle on the gel is only warming up to operating temp of the box it will be much faster than with a warm box. Another benefit might be the ease of cleaning and ice removal. Some peltier driven coolers have big cooling fins or a quite bad design for the heatsink allowing mould to grow where you can't remove it easy. If the box is made from stainless steel and flush with the back wall of the box we won't have that problem anymore. Ok, but how much is good or too much for the size and gel content? You got me there as it is bit tricky. You don't want to loose much usable space for starters and you don't want to wait hours for the gel to cool down if the box was not used. IMHO the size should fit the cooling element with about 20% to spare all around. If stainless steel is not an option than aluminium is the next best choice. Thin sheets can either be be cold formed with a hammer or "brazed" with a good torch and the right rods. Ok, before that route is there anything I should consider or do first? Depends ;) 3-way systems usually use a flame or heating elements to heat an ammoia solution. After years of neglect corrosion can form and reduce the amount of heat transfered into the system and reducing the efficiency this way. It might help to take the heating elements out once a year or so to clean them and the contact areas from any corrosion or dirt build up. With a fixed shedule for this you won't have the problem of never noticing a badly corroded heating element either - and this is the main failure on these systems.... Modifying your camper or making a few mods to your 4WD drawer system is not for the faint of heart and should be done with consideration. The last thing you want to do is rush things to find out it was not necessary. Before cutting holes check if you can't find the room for the fan in a different spot and use ducts to control the airflow - sometimes it is easier to blow air in than to get air out ;) When it comes to creating vents or connections for air to the outside always make sure it is waterproof and insect safe! If you can let the outlet go downwards so water won't run in, for 4WD trailers consider a flap to prevent water from going during a river crossing. Flyscreens will not only prevent insects from coming in but on the inside also prevent dust to go eerywhere - allow to the removal and cleaning! The salts used in these cold packs can be corrosive, so you have to make sure there are no leaks and that there is no steel to come into contact with gel - this includes screw ends hidden in through-holes. If in doubt use a coat of paint but keep it as thin as possible. Even on peltier systems it might be impossible to remove the heatsink without massive surgery on the internals. So before you take it all apart to gain access check if it is far easier to seal around the box opening and possible screw connections using silicone. The cooling battery can be screwed on and sealed with silicone as well as an easy escape route. Although for this to work you need to check if the material of the box allows for a proper bond with the silicone! Some materials just won't allow anything to stick at all, even after sanding them. So do a test first in an area where you would be able to cut the silicone away without causing damage. If you can rip or peel it off the surface you should not try to use a cooling battery screwed to the wall, only use a box that is fully sealed with the cooling element and has a seperate back - one complete unit around the cooling element. I have a 3-way system with a freezer compartment that does the cooling for the fridge too - what can I do? These units either provide good freezing with the fridge temps too low or good fridge cooling with no freezing capabilites - depending on the thermostat used. Our problem is that is next to impossible to add a cooling battery of the normal kind to these systems. The L-shaped freezer box can really only be added with a L-shaped cooling battery from underneath. Only if you don't need any freezing at all you could add a cooling battery to fit into the freezer box shape. In either case the benefit is somehow limited by the way the thermostat is used. If there is no temp control for freezing it should be fine. Warnings... Only peltier driven coolers are free from refrigerants. Every 3-way or compressor system uses refrigerant as evident by more or less piping and heating elements. Never attempt to screw anything into a cooling element containing refrigerant! Even if you think between the channels all will be fine it won't be! The material is just pressed to form the channels and any damage caould mean refrigerant leaking out! Use silicone instead and make sure all surfaces are properly cleaned before applying it, also wait until the silicone is really fully cured before putting any stress on it. As said, these cooling gels can be corrosive, especially if DC voltage is involved. Make sure that everything that is not aluminum or plastic is properly sealed before allowing ongoing contact with cooling gels. Do not attempt any of this if you have to ask yourself what tools you might need or how make a suitable container for the gel. If in doubt check Google on how to work with aluminium or stainless steel if there are not enough Instructables for it. The gel will expand a little bit if it freezes, this no problem in a metal container if you allow for a bit of flex or on the side added strength - whatever suits you better. Another option is to get a few different cold packs (by the active ingredient) and to do a check in a little container. Freeze it and note whe level cold and warm. Little to no difference means nothing to worry in terms of expansion during freezing.
Topic by Downunder35m
Hi ... could some one help with powering up a rear camera ??? I bought this one for my car ... but I'm not sure about how to power it. I know, that I have to use the "cigarette lighter" socket. But do I have to use any resistors to protect/not to burn the camera ??? Or its just fine to buy a car socket adapter, solder the wires and that's it ??? Camera : power supply 12V, current consumption 50mA. Thank you very much. Zholy
Question by zholy | last reply
I'm making a simple portable amp, and i'm searching for a good chip. I've already tried LM386 didn't like the sound and power output. TA7368P good sound, but the low frequencies and the power consumption weren't great. (also 741, TL082 but they aren't ideal for amps.) Now i'm with TDA1015 so far the sound is great, power output also great, the consumption is sort of good. Can someone tell me a good mono (or stereo) amp chip that has good power output (>2W) and it has low power consumption. I know it sounds sort of stupid but iv'e seen some great sounding amps with low power consumption and high power output in an old BoomBox. But it was covered by a big heatsink and when i removed it the IC was blank. So if anyone can help thank you in advance.
Question by T0C | last reply
Again, anyone want to collaborate to make our own? This thing Cut down on energy costs and reduce your electric bill. Simply plug the easy-to-use Power Cost Controller with surge protection into the wall and connect your electronics to the power strip to see how efficient it really is. Large LCD display will count consumption and cost by the kilowatt-hour, same as your local utility. Monitor your electric consumption by hour, day, week, month, even an entire year. Also check the quality of your power by monitoring voltage, line frequency, and power factor. Measures 8-1800W appliances. Now you'll know how much your computer network or home media center really costs! Replaceable 1.5V battery included.
Topic by laminterious | last reply
I'm going to build a Mini Airconditioner based on Peltier Module. I'm going to use 10 Peltier Module for better cooling. 1 Peltier requires Umax (V):15.4 Imax (A):15 Max power consumption (watt):231 Watt. Which Power Supply Driver is required to run all 10 Peltier Elements. [I am from Non-Electrical Background].
Topic by Karthiie keyan | last reply
In India, a lot of multi level marketing companies were promoting a product called energy saver or power saver. It is claimed that by just plugging it in a power circuit, the electricity consumption goed down any where between 20% to 50%. Whether this product works? What is the principle behind it?
Question by arulamudhu | last reply
I was flipping through Make:18 that was talking about energy use. I realized that some people include a large battery array in connection with their solar setup to provide power for their EVs, or potentially their house... So stepping away from that, could you take a large battery array, and have it store up power during the night, to use during the day? This would offset grid consumption during the daytime hours (when it's higher), and potentially lower energy costs (as drawing power at night is sometimes cheaper... although that would probably be negated by the battery array)
Question by aarone | last reply
I've worked with 12v and 5v a fair amount, and I've got a good understanding of Ohms law, series and parallel circuits, etc. But, I get a little sketchy when it comes to wattage ratings, KWHs, etc. and their relation to (now) my electric bill, (but hopefully soon to my off-grid, alternate power sources/power banks) and what I can handle as far as power consumption, etc. Any theory, links, book suggestions, practical examples, etc. will be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks so much in advance, everyone!
Question by sykotik | last reply
I've been rebuilding an old radio and want to make it entirely wireless. It normally has a 120 volt input with a 15 watt consumption. What kind of battery can I use? Can I make it rechargeable?
Question by funnylooking5 | last reply
I live in a converted bus made into a mobile home in Outback Australia. I'm currently building a 'Solar System' so I can go anywhere without relying on hooking up to mains power. The biggest problem I'm having is finding an 'Inverter' that will handle power consumption to run my 'Fridge' and ''Air Conditioner', I have a 2500w Inverter but this can only run an 'Aircon' up to 300w, so tell me where you can get one that runs at this power level !! I have an idea that may get over both problems (Fridge and Aircon). I was looking through 'ebay' and found a 80L Fridge/Freezer that runs on 12v, mainly used for 4WDs and RVs. I'm just wondering if I could somehow carefully drill a hole into the freezer cabinet and coil copper or aluminum small bore pipe around the internal walls of this, then have a small 12v DC Pump circulating 'Antifreeze' or similar through a external radiator with fan blowing through this into my living area. I know this will be a drain on batteries as the freezer will be constantly running due to the warmer return fluid circling around inside the cabinet, but I'm not really worried about this as I will have 4 Solar Panels totaling around 500w production at 7-8amps and 4 Deep Cycle Batteries rated at 100ah each, total 400ah. Will this setup be efficient as a air cooling system without effecting the frozen food in my freezer too much. Would love to here any comments on this and also any suggestions will be gratefully accepted. Regards Keith
Question by Keefe | last reply
It's been about 30 years since I had any formal training in wiring circuits, so excuse my ignorance. I am trying to chain a couple of addressable LED strips. The strips have the following requirements: Power consumption: 10W/M Length: 5m Voltage: DC5V So it's 50W for the length of one 5m strip. I'm considering chaining two or more strips together. The data chain can be as long as it needs to be, but the the manufacturer recommends powering strips every 5m. Let's say I have a 5v 60A (300W) DC power supply. Can I run multiple strips (I guess up to six 5m strips) with this wired in parallel, or do I need to worry about putting resistors in to keep it from overloading the strips? Here's a quick sketch diagram
Question by reverendpete | last reply
I bought some LED modules with the intention of using them to replace florescent tubes in some fixtures. But I am now getting a bit confused about the power requirements because the numbers don't seem to add up. These are like the ones I bought. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221546290709?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT In the details description it says that each led is .25 watts and with 5 LED's per unit that makes the power requirements for each one at 1.25 watts. There are 20 units in a strip or module so that would mean that each module would require 25 watts. If the LED's are ,25 watts then that makes sense since there are 100 LED's per module. Now the thing is when I put power to them they are requiring a lots less. With only a little AC adapter with an out put of 12 v and 2 amps or 24 watts I am able to power SIX of the modules. The power adapter does get warm after a few minutes but if I drop a module and go with 5 it is just fine. So if I go according to what they are actually using the power draw appears to be no more than 5 watts per module. Did they miscalculate? Or am I wrong in my simple math? I tried several different adapters and get the same results. A simple wall wart of 900MA can power 3 but overheats at 4. How is it that they are figuring these at 25 watts when real life usage is saying its more like 5 watts? Its the 5 watt figure that would be more reasonable to me anyway. I am guessing that it will take 8 modules to replace one dual tube 80 watt florescent. If they are 25 watts each I am loosing on the power consumption because that would be 200 watts as opposed to 80. At 5 watts I am doing a lot better coming in at about 40 so that gives me an almost 50% power savings. If I am correct in my estimates then a simple 30 or 40 watt power inverter like this would work perfectly. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-DC-12V-Transformer-Power-Supply-Adapter-LED-Driver-IP67-Waterproof-10W-200W/271569039906?_trksid=p5713.c100284.m3505&_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D4%26asc%3D29396%26meid%3D624e74e14a1848afb36d865d8590fc01%26pid%3D100284%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D18%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D221682389057 Any ideas as to why there is such a discrepancy in these numbers?
Question by Vyger | last reply
I need a display that could show at least the date and/or time for an arduino clock. I am looking for the one with the lowest power consumption possible, perhaps the kind found on digital watches? (I don't know what those are called) if possible the display should have spi or I2C communication, preferably I2C. Any help would be awesome! Thanks ~Dudes
Question by dudes | last reply
I keep seeing websites that talk about current limiting the HV transformers to power Tesla coils and I don't know why it's done. Is it a performance, safety or consumption reason?
Question by The MadScientist | last reply
Hello, I am struggling to upgrade a certain medical system . The device I have contains an old motherboard which powered by an AT power supply. My problem is that the power supply board (which supplies the AT power) has other functions, and there's no way to be replaced (by an ATX PSU). I already bought the motherboard: http://www.ibase.com.tw/2009/MB970.html , with INTEL core i5 CPU Cry Cry. I can't risk my power supply board in attempting to operate the new parts (motherboard, CPU, 4 Gb RAM, CPU fan, SATA harddisk, and DVD), I believe it won't stand that kind of power consumption. I know you'll say this won't work at all -I know, but I was thinking about using voltage regulators to generate the 3.3 v rail from the same AT power lines. OMG I really need help about: How I can connect the AT and ATX power supplies to this motherboard (and to the other parts), ensuring that I am not risking my AT power board at all?. Another headache is that the AT power board has to work at the same time with the motherboard. And in order for the system to work the AT power board has to work (you know that a feedback circuit should be completed) that's why it should be connected to the motherboard. This really became a challenge for me. I can't stop thinking, planning, and dreaming about it. If you have any idea or any experience about this, I would like and hope to hear from you...
Question by muhammad.shamut.7 | last reply
I am new to Arduino and was wondering about power consumption. Do you turn an Arduino off\on? Also, when hooking up a battery, under "Power", you hook up negative to Gnd, and positive to Vin or 5v? Finally, where can you find the cable to hook a Duemilanove to to a computer?
Question | last reply
This project started as this instructables project https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controlled-Robotic-Drum However, instead I'm using a relay board (sainsmart 8 channel) and arduino to switch power from 4 separate wall plug DC power supplies to the individual actuators. Each power supply is connected to 2 channels on the relay, powering 1 actuator each. These are the car door lock actuators Working voltage: DC12V Current consumption: 0.15A-2.22A I am using 1 x 12v, 4.5A power supply, and 3 x 9v 1.5A power supplies (since this is what was needed for the original instructables project) However, I'm noticing that the actuators will sometimes not fire when the circuit is connected, and they seem to be limited as to how quickly they can fire. This is more of a problem with the 9v than the 12v power. The 12v, when supplying power to two actuators at the same time, will not work. I don't understand how the instructables project seemed to have no issue powering these actuators with three 9v 1.5 supplies powering 12 of these actuators (with shields that can only output max 1.2A per actuator). So that got me thinking that the motor shield is doing some sort of power regulating for the actuators. I think a single actuator, unregulated, is gobbling up all the power to the point that the power supply is shutting off, or at least has no more power to supply to anything else. Q: - Do I need to build some sort of regulator for each motor to limit it's power consumption? If so, what kind of regulator? - Should I just increase power supplies to higher Amps until it's not a problem? Any help is very much appreciated.
Question by Trrl | last reply
It seems to have some flexibility--will this help? Input power 100-240 volts, ac 50--60 hz; Supply output voltage 15volts; DC power consumption < 7.5 watts. Would a transformer make it work? Thanks for your input!
Question by juliegee | last reply
This is my first post so please excuse if I am in the wrong place :( I have a boot bracelet with a leather back and ornate bling glued to the leather and sewn at the edges. I want to add small LED strip lights, weather proof, cutable every 3 lights, double-sided adhesive to the center (between leather and ornate mesh side. I want to be able to turn it on and off. I figure 6 mini strip lights should be more than enough. Here are the lights I have: Features: Superbright 3528 SMD LEDs with high intensity and reliability. 5 Metre strip with 600 LEDs Self-adhesive back with double side adhesive tape. Maintenance free, easy installation Long life of 50,000 hours Flexible strip which can easily be curved around bends. UUltra-bright but running at low temperature Viewing Angle : 120° Input volts: DC 12V This Cool White strip light has 600pcs Double Density,SMD 3528 LEDs The Strip is Customizable for any length you want, Cuttable every 3 LED's without damaging the rest strips, flexible and can be bent at any angle, Works with a 12 Volt Power supply Low power consumption, Eco Friendly, High Quality, high intensity and reliability, High Quality Cool White, Double Density 600 LED's, 3528 SMD 5M/16.4 ft, high intensity and reliability, Long lifespan, Hopefully that helps. What I need is a battery source that can be added to the inside of the bracelet that will light it up and allow me to turn off and on (push on/off is better than switch). The source would have to be in something waterproof like a latex substance and can only take up a minimal amount of space 1.5 - 2". Obviously the batteries would have to lay flat (flat coin-like batteries?) Is there ANYONE out there who can give me ideas? Thank you!!!
Topic by harley0805 | last reply
I'm in the development stage for my next couple of projects, and after thinking about variables and other such random stuff, I've decided on a project (no, I won't tell you what it is. not yet at least!). The project is going to have to be very small, and will really be stretching the limits of through hole soldering (I dont want to to SMD on this). Due to size constraints, and power consumption, I need a very specific size battery. I need a battery with (I hope) at least 700mah capacity, if not more, as well as be rechargeable. Diameter should not exceed that of an AAA battery (around 12mm or so). Voltage CANNOT be 1.5, and must be more than 2v (single batteries only please! Multiple cell batteries are fine, as long as they are in a single package). Length of the battery can be pretty long, but should not exceed more than 40mm or so. Battery can be any rechargeable type, with the exception of Li-ion flat packs (I think they are a bit too fragile and volatile for a project exposed to daily wear and tear.). My current choice is a 123A li-ion 880mah battery, but it is a bit too wide for me.. Anyone know of a good, rechargeable, small battery? I know this is really stretching my choice limits, but I would GREATLY appreciate any help you give. Many, many thanks in advance, -Thomas
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
I am building a light pole for my kayak and don't want to pay $60 for the premade ones. I am looking for very bright LEDs that can run on batteries without a large consumption of power. We stay out on the water up to and over six hours.
Question by marty300x2 | last reply
I need to power 2 hard disks in the field. Power requirement: 900 mA each. For the 5V connection, I want to convert the 12V power input with one or more car USB chargers. I need to know if one or more chargers in parallel (how many??) are needed. I have sufficient 12 V juice (small lead acid battery). Additional: for surges in power consumption, do I need to add a capacitor? What would be the rating? Do I have to wire it in series or across? (Sorry I'm a layman in electronics...)
Question by BobS | last reply
I just purchased an electromagnet from Amazon for a small prop for an upcoming play I am directing. Now my problem is... I do not have a clue as to how to supply the power to it. It needs to be able to run steady for roughly 3 hours. What size batteries would I need -the smaller the better in terms of size since the prop itself is not that large, ut will do whatever is necessary to function properly. Here is the only information the electromagnet had attached to it: 'Feature: Electric lifting magnet Powerful and compact Smooth and flat surface Low consumption and reliable Applications: assembly line, sorting machine, mechanical arm, experimental facility, etc Specification:Material: Metal Input Voltage: 12V DC Lifting Force :20N Overall Size : 15 x 15 mm /0.6 x 0.6 inch(Dia. *T) Thread DIA : 3mm Lead Length : 24cm/9. 5 inch" Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advanced!
Question by DeanB77 | last reply
Hello, I just purchased an LED light strip from Amazon: Triangle Bulbs 3528-IP65-White-60L Pure White LED Strip Light, Waterproof LED Flexible Light Strip 12V with 300 SMD LED 12 VDC Super bright Waterproof Cool White 3528 SMD LED strip Length:16.4 ft./5 Meter 300 LED lights per reel. Allowable cut every 3 LED lights Easy and flexible installation. Ideal for home and business lighting decoration. Comes with 3M adhesive sticky backing High brightness, wide angle LED chip. Low power consumption - Only 4.8W/m LIfe: 50,000 hours I already have a 12V DC 2A battery pack. (it holds 8 AA Batteries). What else do I need to complete the circuit? I am thinking I need some sort of on/off switch, but have no idea what I need to buy. Thanks!!!!
Question by KaleiS | last reply
I have a powered sub-woofer that had a blown speaker and being that I spent the money to get a better one I thought that converting the old sub woofer amp to use for my guitar would be a good idea. I already have something to practice with but making something that can be used for gigs would be great. However, I'm not an avid or experienced electronic wizard and will need the help to complete this project. Here is the info I have on the amp itself; OUTPUT POWER 50W (4 ohms,DIN) THD 10% @ 55Hz Reproduction Freq. Response 45Hz - 150Hz Phase Switch 0, 180 degrees Input Sensitivity (Sub In) 460 mVrms AC Power 120V/60Hz Power Consumption 70W (at 1/8 rated power) Standby Power Consumption <6W What I do know that I need is a 1/4" mono plug jack and being that the input for the woofer is mono putting that in shouldn't be a problem. I'm mostly concerned about the frequencies that the amp will handle for playing a guitar and speaker recommendations. Plus any other opinions will be appreciated. I am expecting this to be a clean sounding amp and as it sits will only provide volume. An EQ is planned to be used after this amp is put together and then eventually an overdrive. I'm planning on connecting 2 50W speakers and wondering if I should hook them up in serial or parallel. With the help of my fellow instructabl-ians I will be able to post my 1st submission.
Question by 95sprtcpedrvr | last reply
IS THERE A SIMPLE AND EASY HACK USING WHATS ALREADY BUILT IN OR CAN WE MAKE THE SYMBOLS ONLY ON ALL MY KEYBOARD BUTTONS LIGHT UP JUST ENOUGH TO BE VISIBLE(NOT TOO MUCH POWER CONSUMPTION)?
Question by KrAx | last reply
Hi, first of all I must apologize if I'm not being clear on the description of what I'm planning on doing (english is not my first language), there's a drwing if it can help understand what i'm trying to say. So here's my "problem": I have been building several devices (small LED lamps, robots and other geeky stuff I found here on Instructables) and I'm trying to find a good and "universal" solution to power them. Their energy consumption is low so I decided I could use a USB connection as the power source/supply. Now, I would like to use a single cable to power all these, a "plug and play" solution and I've been thinking to jacks, the kind you find on headphones: easy to plug/unplug and I've got plenty of spare female jack plugs I can use with the devices (with the appropriate resistors included). So basically I would end up using a cable with a male USB on one end and a male mini jack on the other. Is it possible to use the jacks this way? Will the mini jacks and/or the headphones cables stand the power from a USB source? Thanks for your answers!
Question by benjigold | last reply
Small boats under power are required to have a 112.5 degree lighting on the sides and an all-round white light on the stern. The light on the left or port side is red, while the right or starboard sidelight is green. At night, these lights must be visible for 1 mile, while the stern (rear) white light must be visible for 2 miles (minimum). These lights indicate direction... course. Led navigation lights are very expensive. LEDs are very cheap... So, why not build 'um yourself? My small craft uses a 12 volt battery operated trolling motor for power, and therefore, the idea low power consumption LEDS is very appealing. I've never built and LED lights, but I'd love to see some ides for small electric (or gas powered) powered water craft. Thanks
Question by Bowfin47 | last reply
Excuse the lack of technical speak but i struggle with it. I've recently given a pair or old Russian PNV-57a night vision goggles, unfortunately they have to be plugged into a tank to operate. I don't have a tank... unfortunately. Im looking to get them attached to a battery so i can walk about with them. They got a box at the back which allows them to be powered with 12-24 Volts with an ampage of 3 to 3.5 a maximum power consumption or less. That's the information I've been given apart from their very robust and not very picky when it comes to power supply. like i said i want to power them with a battery but don't know what battery or if i need to make any circuits. Any ideas? Thanks folk Ben-jammin (email@example.com)
Question by Ben-jammin | last reply
Now that I have found this wonderful site I noticed my battery consumption has gone way up. So I figure I could just use an AC Adapter rated for 6V 500mA for constant supply of power while protying, mucking about etc., etc.. Is there anything I should be aware of or is this going to be fine and dandy?
Topic by milsorgen | last reply
Lyn city is a open source sim city that is configured by text files. Now if someoen went to home power magazine and entered the costs input and output of wind solar housing farming ... and consumption # of peep.. lynn city cold be a simulator for a eco friendly biosphere....
Question by josheeg
Hi everybody ! I'm currently working on a speaker project, and I want it to be powered by 4x 18650 3400mAh 3.7V batteries in parallel, but when they are recharged (with a separated 18650 wall charger), I want to be able to power my speaker from a wall power supply. The idea is to get the 5v power supply voltage down to something between 3.7v and 4.2v, in order to mimic the battery voltage. I already chose this one which is a 10amp-capable power supply in order to be sure to always give the speaker enough current (speaker current consumption is between 0,55 at medium volume and 3 amps a maximum volume). I first thought that i would use this board to convert 5v to 3,7v but it's only able to output 1.25 amps max so I need to figure out a way to convert 5v to 3.7-4.2v without loosing a lot of current. I've heard of low dropout regulator (LDO) but I cannot find one capable of delivering 4amps or more... Any help is appreciated ! Mahot
Question by boulou | last reply
I would like to use whether six AA or one 9Volt external battery for a diy "bare-bone" arduino* (*just the 328p atmega, 8MHz oscilator, capacitors, resitor, LED) & tested LM317, LD1086, LM1117 voltage regulators (it's a "budget" project – hence didn't try any step-up/step-down switching regulators though they seem to be the best solution ...); ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ SUITABLE POWER/CURRENT? can i "simply connect" any of the regulators (incl. the necessary resistors/capacitors according to their datasheets) or do i need to add resistors to reduce their current in order to not "over-power"* them? * according to the values i measured (i am a novice to arduino's power management … could have made mistakes whilst measuring) LM317 = ca. 2A @ ca. 3.3V with 100 & 160 Ohm resistors LD1086 = ca. 1A @ ca. 3.3V with 100 & 160 Ohm resistors LM1117 = ca. 1A @ ca. 3.3V without resistors according to dataheets/descriptions of several arduino boards (but i might have misunderstood – this might not have any impact on the power source … ) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRYING TO PROTECT & REDUCE POWER FOR ADDITIONAL FEATURES ... LED to indicate that there is power flowing … hoping that this reduces the power consumption: - a 20 KOhm pullUp resistor ? Protect from charge … hoping that this protects the circuit from capacitors' stored charge: - 2* 1N4001 on voltage regulator? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ i look forward to your advice …
Question by marc_is_curious | last reply
What batterys have a 12 or 24v, 3amp capabilities? Excuse the lack of technical speak but i struggle with it. I've recently given a pair or old Russian PNV-57a night vision goggles, unfortunately they have to be plugged into a tank to operate. I don't have a tank... unfortunately. Im looking to get them attached to a battery so i can walk about with them. They got a box at the back allows them to be powered with 12 to 24 Volts. With an ampage of 3 to 3.5 a maximum power consumption of 6W or less. That's the information I've been given apart from their very robust and easy to play with. like i said i want to power them with a battery but don't know what battery or if i need to make any circuits. Any ideas? Thanks folk Ben-jammin
Topic by Ben-jammin | last reply