Search for power supplies in Topics

Last time I tried to do my own homemade project I failed utterly, I think mostly because I had no idea what anything was (if you saw my last topic on a distortion petal, you know what I'm talking about). I decided instead to buy a book (Tab Electronics Guide to Understanding Electricity and Electronics by G. Randy Slone) which has projects in it, the first one being a power supply. I haven't started building it yet (waiting until I get back to the city) but I've started looking up parts. The thing is, I can't find a 4400-uF 50-WVdc capacitor anywhere! So my question is, can I just put two 2200-uF 50-WVdc capacitors in parallel to do the job of one of the 4400's? That isn't my only question, just the first which I'll ask later in this thread. Thank you (PS: Has anyone had a problem with using Chrome and entering text into these fields? I had to switch to Firefox to get it to work)

Since I was thinking of building a bipolar power supply +12V, -12V, using a 12-0-12 transformer and using only diodes and capacitors, which I have successfully built. My problem is how safe can this power supply be? since I am not using any regulators?

With this circuit, does it matter how many amps the input is rated at? The output is supposed to be 2 amps at 9 volts

I need some insight on powering 2 separate circuits. Here's what I have so far...... Circuit #1.   80 3.3v  leds consuming 400MA. Circuit #2.   20 2.0v leds consuming 60MA. Now my power supply output is 15v - 600ma, will this power supply suffice wired parallel? I do have a 9v-1a power supply too that could power circuit #2 if need be. but for simplicity of things i would like to use one power supply.

Can i use a 20+4 pin power supply on a 24 pin motherboard? THANKZ!!!!

I have an unregulated power supply, with a bridge rectifier. I suspect that the rectifier is damaged. I measured the components and the voltage on the rectifier, every connection past that measures 0 volts. Shall I replace the 4 diodes?

Hi- i have an ION electronic drum kit that i got from a friend, but i somehow managed to lose the power brick. It wants 9V AC & 850mA, which for the life of me i cannot find anywhere. So, does anyone know where i can find one, or if there is something else that might work? Thanks a lot.

Hi. I have an amplifier. It needs a 12v-0-12v transformer. I have two 12v adapters. Can i attach these two adapters like this(shown in image) to get 12v-0-12v???

HEY! I recently took out a 6V DC motor from a CD player. The problem is that I wanted it to power through the mains but have a 12V step  down transformer. So, my question is that whether there is any way  I can  power it?  (except by using a 6v step down transformer) Thank You

I built a PSU bench power supply, but it isnt outputing the right voltages. It just out 5v for all lines(12v,5v). It has a purple wire that is said to be the stand-by, but the psu wont start unless it is connected to the 12v or 5v line. It also says that you have to have the brown sense wire attached to the 3v wire but this seems to do nothing. How can I make this thing output the right power(12v @ 22A, 5v @ 50A)?

Hi Guys! I need some help. I recently got several pc power supplies and I don't know how to turn them on. That sounds stupid, but I don't really work with them much. I tried plugging it in expecting the fan to at least turn on, but nothing happened. No outputs from any of the leads either. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!

Normally I'm pretty good with electronics, but I need some help with this problem. I'm building a power supply for a cnc machine and I need help designing a circuit to power fans when it's over a certain temperature. Here's some things it needs: 1) 12 volts supply (easy with a transformer and filtering it) 2) power fans when it reaches a certain temperature. 3) still keeps the fans on even though the rest of the system is off. 4) after the system if off and it's down to temperature then the transformer turns off, to save electricity and to not make it hot after a long time. If possible can someone draw up a schematic? Thanks in advance!

Hey I need help building a pedal brick power supply like the one here. i could just buy one but it wouldent be as fun, and i would rather build one if any one can help or knows of a schematic with multiple 9 volt outs i would appreciate your help.

I'm building a power supply for my cnc machine that gives off about 37volts at 8 amps, and 12 volts at 0.9 amps. All of the transformers are from radioshack (using 6 heavy duty, 25.2volts, 2 amps transformers, 4 in parallel giving off 25.2 vdc at 8 amps, and 2 12.6 volts in parallel. Together in series gives about 37 volts at 8 amps. using 1 25.2 volts 450mA transformer, center tapped) My case does not have enough room for proper cooling such as fans. My case is water tight though, should I fill it up with something like mineral oil to keep the transformers cool?

I was wondering if anyone could post how to make a simple rca power supply for a tattoo machine. Just a plain rca female input like off the game cords, not the guitar amp. it needs only to supply 3-4 volts of power. maybe an old walkman or something? when i have the smallest cutest girly homeade tattoo machine that i want to post but i want to make sure it works properly first, it runs off batteries right now but i want to be able to plug it in. if someone does this project could they msg me when its posted? thanks :)

Actually i am trying to make a web connected robot after seing it from instruct table.com the wiring skeem which is shown in it is :- they are powering the arduino with a 9 volt battery from the connector and running the servos with the 4AA batteries so i also done the same thing but when i done it then an error starts comming while uploading the programe on the board so i contact the manufacturer of the board so he told me that your chip has got fried and if you further want to protect your chip so set the jumper before providing external power supply but on instruct table they directly have done all the wirings they does not have told of jumper and all. as i am really new to arduino i does not know how should i set the jumper.so please help me out..........

I have a project that needs a 24VDC input, at only about 300 mA. I don't have any 24V power supplies, wall warts or anything else lying around, but what I do have is a 120 in, 24 out transformer, a bridge rectifier, and a large cap. Is there any reason why I shouldn't just use those? I'll put a fuse on it. I have some 317 voltage regulators but they dissipate too much to provide the full 24V. 317s are short-protected and the like, which obviously my little kludge wouldn't be, but beyond that, is it a bad idea? thanks,

First, I apologize for being (almost) the hardware version of a "script-kiddie". I do want to learn the techniques involved but all of the electronics courses I've found work the wrong way around. They teach "this is what we have and this is what you can do with it" whereas my brain works in the "This is the problem, here is a solution and this is why it works." manner. This is how I learned software but when you get it wrong you can start again without losing the magic smoke! I have a 250ah, 12V battery bank, multiple DC devices requiring power and, eventually, several power sources for recharging. I also have several MC34063 chips and a few higher amp chips (somewhat optimistically as it turns out). Firstly, is there a practical course online that is built around this? Secondly (and probably extremely basic), if a device draws, for example, 3A is it self-limiting or do I need to put something between the source and the device too restrict the power?

Hello!! i built a LM386 amp recently, and i am attempting to build a power supply for it...which is a challenge. so do i have to use a regulator or what? im new to voltage from the wall, i usually build them with batteries, so im new to it. do you think you could post a setup for amps like that that? thank you for your time)) 

I don't have a lot of money to spend on stuff at the moment. What I do have is flash guns. Four of them in fact, three of which can be fired with triggers. Now I could invest in 16 rechargeable batteries. Or should that be 32 in case I run out? And a crap load of chargers.  And extensions cos we have no spare sockets in our house. But that just doesn't seem right to me.   Heres what I propose : 1) make some dummy batteries from wood with wire running through the middle.   Three of these go in each flash to carry the connections  2) a fourth dummy battery carries wires out of a small notch in the battery flap door 3) said wires are connected in parallel to a large rechargeable battery - I reckon a 6v from an old British motorcycle (fast draining) or from a granny wagon (deep cycle) should do the trick.  4) when I'm done shooting I charge this single battery from the mains charger I have (does 6/12v) I figure 4xAA batteries at 1.5v = a 6v battery, bu extra size should last longer, be more convenient than carrying around dozens of AAs and changing them and if I want to use AAs when our and about I still can   Any reasons tho wouldn't work or I shouldn't do it?

I've seen alot of the projects that have a power supply and a driver?  What's the difference between the two and why would you need both?

Just wondering what i could do with my old computer power supply? THANKS.... Also...What bout LEDs ....what can i make with them??? THANKS

20pi old atx power supply whith foppy drive connection and reg.hard dive and ribon connections no switches for power 1 plug for ac 1 led green 1 120/220 switch led on when plugs in but no out put power I cross green and black wires led gos out still no out put help please

I 'accidentally' loaded the atx power supply with 10 amps. It is requires 4 amps to work, I am worried that the protection circuits will be blown. Would it be safe to use now with a 4 amp supply now? I live in the U.K.

I have a strip of LED's that have a warning that's says use only with a 12v class 2 power supply. Is this referring to an AC/DC transformer? Should I be able to run them straight from a 12v battery? If I am using a 12v battery is the class 2 circuitry still needed?

I want to build a switching Power Supply, without the use of IC's with everything already inside. I only want to use op amps and passive components. Below are my goals on what to achieve. I would like to make this PSU current limited, or at least shut off when the current goes too high. I basically took the concept of the linear voltage regulator and expanded on it, turning it into a 'proof of concept' switchmode supply. Input Voltage range: . . . .7-24 Volts Voltage: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-24 Volts Max Current: . . . . . . . . . .10 Amps Price: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $5 -- $10         Instead of feeding a voltage reference into an op amp, I modulated it with a few components. (A triangle wave generator, and a array of resistors to lower the amplitude and introduce a DC bias.) The DC bias is controlled by the current protection module, which is simply an op-amp that reads the voltage on a small resistor and multiplies it by 5. This finalized current controlled, DC reference biased triangle wave is fed into a comparator, which will then switch a rather large MOSFET on and off at about 200 Hz, with varying PWM, depending on how much 'droop' there is on the output. Here is a rundown of what the components will do: OK, I refined my plan to this general specs: Input Voltage range: . . . .7-24 Volts Voltage: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-12 Volts Max Current: . . . . . . . . . .10 Amps Price: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $5 -- $10        I basically took the concept of the linear voltage regulator and expanded on it, turning it into a 'proof of concept' switchmode supply. I don't want to use any prebuilt chips where you have a magic black box with inductors, capacitors and resistors connected to it. I want this to be entirely raw, basic, cheap parts. Maybe later, I will replace many of the op amps with a single programmable chip (like an Atmega328P)         Instead of feeding a voltage reference into an op amp, I modulated it with a few components. (A triangle wave generator, and a array of resistors to lower the amplitude and introduce a DC bias.) The DC bias is controlled by the current protection module, which is simply an op-amp that reads the voltage on a small resistor and multiplies it by 5. This finalized current controlled, DC reference biased triangle wave is fed into a comparator, which will then switch a rather large MOSFET on and off at about 200 Hz, with varying PWM, depending on how much 'droop' there is on the output. Here is a rundown of what the components will do: Green field: This contains a voltage regulator which acts as both a 5V power source and a voltage reference. Not only will this module produce a 5V output, but also produce a triangle wave. Blue field: This module will be fed the triangle wave, decrease it's amplitude, and inject it with a bias voltage, controled by the current limiter (red field). Red field: This basic module simply measures current flowing through a 0.1 Ω resistor, and multiply that reading by a factor of 10, and inert it (the circuitry is probably wrong, and I am not sure how this will work, if it even will do what I want it to Will this work?) Yellow field: The final modulated triangle wave is then fed into the last comparator, which will switch a MOSFET on and off at a fixed frequency of 200Hz. The output of this last comparator is now PWM. As the output voltage sags, the pulse width will increase, and cause the final voltage to stabilize at either the peak value of the triangle wave (with little to no load), or near the bottom end of the wave (with a heavy load) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ My questions:  I try to run this in LTspice simulator but some reason the output of the last comparator is a distorted triangle wave. I think this has to do with my filtering capacitor and MOSFET gate capacitance. Can anyone give suggestions about this design?  I'm sure the current limiting function is not going to work as intended until I finalize it's design (I hope I don't need more than 4 op amps altogether, It would be nice to use a single chip I already have) Any suggestions? I might just omit this part entirely, as it is not necessary.

I have a Gateway 24" LCD monitor, model # LP2407, with a bad power supply. Does anyone know where I can purchase parts for Gateway products? Or does anyone know the company that produces the monitors for Gateway? Gateway is useless, they directed me to companies that are resellers or Gateway's computers. I've checked with several local repair shops, all said, "Good luck, buy a new monitor."

I have approx 200 flashing LED circut boards that I want to make a twinkling display from. Each board has a single LED that flashes about every second, each board also has a single 3v cr2032 lithium battery powering it. What Id like to do is remove the battery on each one and wire them to a DC power supply that can be plugged into 120VAC. So I actually have two questions: Should I wire these in series? Or parallel? What size power supply would I need? Heres a link to a picture of what I have. http://www.rocketproduction.com/wirefree-leds.php Thanks (in advance) for all your help!

Is there a fairly simple circuit, method to making a desktop power supply running on 240v a.c mains supply with a user controlled variable output say 0-24v D.C with variable ampage upto say 1 amp. I may be over simplicating thing in my head but is it just a case of a transformer taking my mains input down to the upper most requirement ( 24v @ 1amp ) on the output, and the using some type of variable resitors on the output to further restrict the output to my requirement. I would be grateful for any guidance and information on this topic. Thanks to the community in advance.

The cheap bare metal power supplies from ebay or other sides have been reviewed many times on youtube and people have found that they are actually decent. But I cannot find any reviews of the sealed plastic kind of power supplies. The "bare metal" ones I am talking about look like this, and the "sealed plastic" ones look like this and this. Edit: None of your replies answer my question. I am not asking which one I should choose, I am asking if the plastic ones are just as decent as the metal ones. There are a few reviews of the metal ones, and people have found that they are actually quite decent. Here are some: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwFrP7uK5lM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71NWT5vrbk8 But I cannot find any reviews of the plastic ones, so I don't know if they are just as good. I am asking if anyone has gotten any of these and made a review with some tests, or knows of a review of these.

 I am going mad over trying to figure out what power supply I need. I am making an arduino controlled aquarium fixture and plan on using 30x3w leds. From what I understand using resistors could cause fire and I don't want that of course. I like the look of laptop drivers like this one http://www.gapsupply.com/LED-Power-Supply-p/12v-dc-nwp-96w.htm but I cant figure out which one I need. I have seen all the instructables for this and everyone seems to tape 8 meanwell drivers together. I dont want a big bulky ugly mess like that just one power supply to do the job. The smaller and more compact the better. I will be running 2 rows of white on the outside and one row of red in the middle. 10x3w leds per row. each row individually dimmable via ir and tft. here is the led specs. Whites: http://www.ebay.com/itm/390908787444?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Forward Voltage: 3.2-3.8V-700MA Luminous flux: 200-230LM Output power: 3w Light Color:  White 6000-6500K View angle: 120-140 LED support：Copper Life time:50000 hours Reds: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310834616296?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var;=610229587957&ssPageName;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT DC Forward Voltage:2.2V~2.8V Forward Current: 600-700mA Output power: 3w Light Color:  White 6000-6500K View angle: 120-140 Any help and ideas is greatly appreciated. Thanks

I made a small circuit board which is a proximity sensor that turns on or off a small philips genie light(its a small white tubelight like light ).i tried powering it up with a 9v battery and it works fine and the relay on the circuit board switches the ac220v load and the light goes on ,however when i try powering it up with a 10vdc adapter the relay on the circuit board keeps clicking(here i have not used the ac load to switch the tubelight,i was just experimenting and came upon the problem) .what should i do .pls help me.  

I've been trying to collect info and guidance on how to build a portable and minimalistic power supply. I have in the past built other stomp boxes and small amplifiers (PCB kits) but never enough to learn how to read schematics or build from scratch, so I'm looking for something pretty detailed or simple enough. List of the technical and practical requirements: -Steady and safe current output for several hours straight; -Operating voltage: 3-4 to 15-17 volts; -Current: 2-3A; -1 voltage control potentiometer; -1 digital voltmeter; -1 output (1/4 jack); -1 pedal switch input (1/4 jack); -1 status LED; - Possibly external transformer (to keep it smaller and avoid overheating); -No vent holes; I have found similar builds (instuctables and YouTube), but never similar enough to be sure that putting that build in a smaller and sealed box would perform well and not overheat It seems weird to me that I wasn't able to find any kit or project for such a simple build. Below a link to an ideal result example https://thelondontattooconvention.com/suppliers/hard-craft-company-handmade-tattoo-power-supplies/

Either that or the zoom pedal isn't working. that's my bet, it's the stock power supply . it runs fine on batteries, albeit for a short time.

I did this project https://www.instructables.com/id/Convert-an-ATX-Power-Supply-Into-a-Regular-DC-Powe/ just today, but all the results came out negative voltage (e.g. -11,45 on the 12v) on the multimeter. Did I do something wrong or is it supposed to be like that?

Just asking before I blow up 2 of my power supplies that I just made/salvaged/fixed/modified. I need 19 volts at 2.95 amps (practically 3) for a laptop that I found (yay dumpster diving, don't worry I'm not a guy who steals identity, it was actually my dad's lab and they're throwing away a bunch of stuff, it's a goldmine!) and it was marked dead. I pull out the battery and it has 0 charge. It had no charging adapter, so can I just make one? I have to power supplies, one from a computer that I modified and an adjustable one the goes up to about 15 volts at 6 amps (and they were throwing it away! it only need a new fuse). After all of that background info, here's my question: can i put the 5 volts from the comp supply in series with the 14 volts from my adjustable supply to get 19 volts at enough amps to power on this laptop? I don't want to buy a 60 dollar charger just to find out the comps broken cause of something else.

I needed around 500mA current to run my mini project, so i decided to go through the transformer less power supply instead of normal transformer used supply.Since the other power supplies are quite bulky. But the problem occurred is, the supply doesn't supplies minimal current to run the project. Please, help me with this problem and suggest some alternatives or amendments to be made.  I have uploaded a picture of my design.

I am making chlorate's in a cell. but i need to give it about 5 volts and 1-2 amps. how would i do this cheaply?

My power supply says it can supply 12 Volts @ 10 amps.  It used to power 2 linear actuators drawing max 4.6 amps each, but no longer does. It still supplies 12V measured by multimeter. Is there an easy way to figure out how many amps it now supplies?

Does the wall wart need to be AC or DC. Also how does the potentiometer go in the circuit? I bought a 10k volume potiemter here:[http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3064080] Will this work?

I cant able to run my arduino in external dc power supply.and also when i give my shield  a external power supply of 9V battery and 5V from the arduino, the battery is lasting only for 30 minutes.can i know what is happening & how can i overcome this?

Hi Again, My question is when building an ATX power supply, Can you join the 12 volt leads with the 5 volts leads to make 17 volts? If not how can I get lets say 20 volts. I am going to use a DC to DC converter to make a variable power supply. I would like at least 20V in then I can adjust from 1.2 to 60 volts out. I use it now running directly off battery but would like to add it to the ATX build case. Thanks for any help again.

I know this is a long passed DIY. But while building a ATX Power supply I separated all the wires as stated. I then put the green and a black wire to a switch and added the 3 brown leads to the orange leads. When I plug in the unit the supply light comes on, but when I turn the green wire switch the main power LED goes out and no fan comes on. It acts like the switch is shutting the unit off.  Can anyone help. I am 60 years old and just getting into doing some bench work to pass the time. Thanks for any help.

I see many pos neg power supply's with an op-amp on the neg side. What is the purpose and function that is has there? There is two links with examples. First has an LM301 and the second has an OP27EP.    

For sale is a Power Tronic switching power supply for a computer. One plug has been cut off I think it may have been for the power switch. The harnesses to the left have a second plug for a total of six plugs. The fan shroud is 3 3/16 high from the top of the supply its 1 1/2 high on the left and tapers to 1 on the end. Here are the ratings. Dc output Min Max +3.3v 0.3A 12A +5v 2.5A 18A +12v 0.2A 4.2A -5v 0A 0.5A -12v 0A 0.8A +5VSB 0A 0.7AI will include the power cord for free. $15

In the various instructables on this subject, all the component values aren"t given. such as the  120ohm resistor required but no watt value is given. can anyone give me a detailed parts list so I can buy the components needed for this project?

Is there any way I can make a power supply out of the free energy instructable by making many free energy devices,linking them together,and also linking it to a transformer.Will this have enough energy to charge a phone?

I am trying to build a variable power supply using a LM317 variable voltage regulator. When connected to no load, i can get a sweep from 1 volt to 15 volts. but when a load (small pager motor, laser diode) is connected, i can only get up to 4 volts, and about 12 milliamps of current. Help!

Okay i've recently bpught an rc battery quick charger. the input on it just says 12-13.8v i do have a standard 110 to 12v @ 400mA Should the ma Matter? you can hook the battery up to a 12v battery in order to power it also. basicly i'm wanting to know if i could use my ac adaper to power it. Thanks in advance

Hello everybody, hope somebody will be able to help me out or point to a right direction. I have about 40 battery candles that I have to change batteries every month. I was wondering what could I do to convert them to candles with power supply connected to a regular outlet so there wouldn't be a need for batteries. I know there are special candles with external power supplies but the ones I found are in thousands of dollar. These candles go inside large candles made from wax that is a reason why I need long wires. I have attached pictures of the candles. What I would like to do is to connect them with long wires to one or multiply power supplies connected to regular electrical power outlet. One candle holds 4 AA batteries. Could someone recommend what power supply and parts I should get to make this happen? Thanks.