Magnetic Silly Putty - Thinking Putty

A friend of my friend Rhett just launched Thinking Putty, which is ferromagnetic silly putty. You might recognize the site, Crazy Aaron's Puttyworld, as they had some ads on Instructables last Christmas season (for full disclosure, at the time I didn't realize I was only one degree of separation from the advertiser, and now I'm posting this because I think it's cool, not because of an advertising relationship). According to Rhett, this new grey stuff feels exactly the same as regular silly putty, and it is pretty strongly ferromagnetic, as you can see from the videos. Aaron apparently has a ridiculous amount of putty related chemicals in his basement, and it took him a few years to figure this out.

Topic by ewilhelm   |  last reply


mighty putty contest

A contest to build the most fun, interesting, useful project out of a main material- mighty putty.

Topic by twergy   |  last reply


Want to know how to make these beautiful putties...

Greetings, Anyone know how to make these kind of putties?  What are the ingredients?  What is used for the color? http://www.puttyworld.com/bulthinput.html Thanks

Topic by NeuroPulse   |  last reply



ESP8266 to PuTTY using telnet

I am working on a project where i want to use an ESP8266 to log data from an arduino uno to a computer using telnet. I'm using PuTTY as my telnetclient but I can't send data from PuTTY to my Arduino and can't find a right code for me anywhere. Can someone please give me some advise?

Question by floris.leirs 


Instructables on New Scientist TV

Instructables "artist in residence" Mikeasaurus has had his magnetic silly putty featured on New Scientist TV. Kudos, Mike!

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


Any ideas for hardening plumber's putty? Answered

I want to mold it, harden it, sand it, gift it.

Question by JeanDuke   |  last reply


Serial terminal emulation help, please? (again...) Answered

Before you read below, read this: https://www.instructables.com/answers/Updating-1980s-X-Terminals/ I've finally gotten around to setting up PuTTY to work with the serial line. Communication is fine, I'm pretty sure I have the baud rate and everything set up correctly, but I still have one problem. The POS program has a login phase, which works perfectly. However, right after the program itself starts and finishes spitting out its splash screen, copyright information, etc., problems start emerging. Putty doesn't seem to be rendering formatting correctly, or maybe not at all. Whenever text needs to be highlighted, or there need to be shape characters like ┌, or ┤, all I see in the window is garble like this: ae&ae;&ae;&ae;&. Also, no line breaks are given. How should I fix this? Should I change a specific setting in PuTTY? Should I be using a different program? ***More information about the original terminal, more specific examples and screen-shots will supplied shortly.*** Kind-of update: Wait, what? So apparently, those two characters above give the same garble on html as on the terminal. They are supposed to be ASCII characters 218 and 195. Note that these are part of the extended ASCII codes (I just realized that). Does PuTTY have an option support ASCII characters 128 to 255? In the character encoding pane of PuTTY setup, I've tried every encoding available. Do I need to type in a name of an encoding manually?

Question by aelias36   |  last reply


Make two part molds with silicone mold putty

Make a small batch of silicone putty. push original into the putty, up to the mold line. let cure. put in vents for air to escape and a pour hole cover with more putty, but will the new putty adhere to the old? How do I keep the mold pieces seperate? also If I want to use pewter originals, how do I prevent tin contamination of the mold?

Question by hardlec   |  last reply


Is oogoo (DIY Silicone Putty) Oven-safe?

Hello! I have a question for people who use oogoo, or generally DIY silicone molding putty made from 100% silicone caulk. I want to cast oogoo molds of lego bionicle masks with polymer clay, but my issue is I need to keep the clay inside the mold in order to prevent any kind of warping, as most of it is spread a little thin (1-2mm thickness) and I don't want to end up warping it even in the slightest. Is oogoo or cured 100% silicone caulk oven-safe as long as it's within the specified temperature range? (I already know most DIY silicone putties aren't food-grade.) The silicone caulk I'm using is GE all purpose silicone I, mixed with corn starch, acrylic paint, and baby oil. The back of the tube says that it should not be used on surfaces that will exceed 400F/205C. The polymer clay I plan on using is cured at 110C, so I don't think it'll be a problem, but I'm worried exposing the silicone caulk mold to high temperatures will cause it to release some harmful chemical compounds. I looked up an MSDS sheet for GE silicone, and they had a generalized one stating exceeding the maximum temperature will cause the release of formaldehyde. Since I plan on baking these in our kitchen oven, I wouldn't want harmful chemicals contaminating a space where we cook our food. Also, if baking isn't an option, since the polymer clay is spread thin, and cures close to 100C, would curing it in boiling water be an option? (That way any water soluble chemicals would remain contained while the clay hardens.) All help is appreciated!

Topic by SixFootBlue   |  last reply


how do I use contour putty?

I bought some contour putty not long ago to use on my pistol model (an homage to gmjhowe that I hope to have up sometime soon, thought it may have to wait till after finals) but so far it seems too soft when dry to use, am I doing it wrong, or is it just like that?

Question by daywalker42 


Any ideas for using hardened plumber's putty? Answered

I bought a tub of this to fix my sink and only used a tad.  Despite it saying "Will not separate, harden, or crack" it does all that.  Unfortunately, they don't give warranties with this stuff, so I was left with a life time's supply of plumber's putty that is hardening as I speak.  Please, if you have ANY ideas on how to use this or soften it, do pass them along.  Thanks!  :)    =^..^=

Question by happi cat #71   |  last reply


Is there a way to make silly putty without liquid starch?

I dont have any liquid starch and I want to make some silly putty. I want to use it as a sugru alternative for the life hacks contest.

Question by Iam4NUru   |  last reply


can you fix a guitar with wood putty alone?

I have an old acousitc guitar witch my music teacher gave me (Mrs. M's so nice) it has tons of cracks and. I was wondering if I could fix it by just using wood putty and a sander and then spray paint it a different color. any suggestions? *i'm also gonna make an instructable out of this.

Question by Irock148   |  last reply


Kno2 + sugar + playdough = moldable putty flash powder?

So i was just wondering, could i mix potassium nitrate/sugar smoke bomb/flashpowder mix with playdough to create and expedient moldable flash substance? 

Question by mammasboy   |  last reply


Old pennies stuck together with green rust like putty!?

I was going through a trunk of old coins and alot of the pennies are stuck together with a green putty like rust!!! What on earth is this its holding the pennies together quite well, I can pry a few apart but some are just stuck! I also found some mercury head dimes, steel pennies, and this unidentifiable coin with a eagle on the front and what looks like a statue of liberty on the back. Any ideas on the rust putty and what this mystery coin is?!

Topic by astrozombies138   |  last reply


What is a good mold able product to make a custom computer case?

I was thinking mighty putty but when it gets a little worm it stinks badly. It has to be able to wit stand heat and not catch on fire or smell bad. Any help would be appreciated thanks ps sorry  for the bad spelling

Question by devilinops 



Cheap Alternative Nose Cones

I am currently working on a new idea in which the nosecone of a model rocket is made from wood putty. Here are the steps: 1. Make a a frame made from a thin piece of balsa. 2. Fill in the four sections with a generous a mount of wood putty or wood filler. 3. Sand using a rough sandpaper, then something finer 4. Attach a dowel to the bottom and add a screw eye Do you think it will work? 

Topic by TheBlackSharpie   |  last reply


Ways to make a crappy low-flow showerhead suck less OR slaying prehistoric plumber's putty?

Moved into a new flat and they're into water conservation. Great. Has a low flow showerhead. Fine. Except that it's got the worst design known to mankind with hideously low water pressure and an unadjustable spray that conveniently directs the water everywhere but you. The problem is that this craptastic showerhead is cemented to the pipe with what appears to be fossilized plumber's putty. I can't cut the pipe, as the internet suggests, because this is an apartment and they will rain brimstone and damage fees down upon me. So, the question: 1. How do you get rid of seriously ancient and hardened plumber's putty? 2. If you can't, how might you make an attachment to go over a showerhead that could improve water pressure or at least improve the direction of the spray without decreasing water pressure?

Question by TheJenx   |  last reply


on top of my water conditioner reserve tank, there is a plastic connection that is leaking.

It is just off the main water line. leak is becoming more rapid. i tried turning the bypass knob. did not help. how do i repair it without diconnection? is there a spray, or putty that can be used?

Question by pdotearl   |  last reply


make it stick rejection

Hey i entered this instructible and it was rejected and im not sure how to appeal it https://www.instructables.com/id/Video-Game-controller-belt-buckles-WITH-SOUND/  i know it qualifies because it says use any adhesive and it has about 5 or so, hot glue, epoxy , epoxy putty, and sometime quick grab.

Topic by sillyzombie666   |  last reply


Ultimate Pi Home Server

I'm new to linux and following through the instructables  for Pi home server. Everything is fine until I try to login to Webmin via ssh from windows 7 PC with `putty` using IP:12321 This lets me login to root @core but can't get the Webmin login screen. Any help much appreciated

Topic by Crocker7   |  last reply


Why was my 'Ible rejected from the "Three Ingredient" contest?

Why was my "Retractable Helping Hands (My Mini Soldering Helper!)" rejected form the "Three Ingredient" contest? The whole project uses only 3 ingredients: 1. An Old IKEA Lamp 2. Mini C-Clamp 3. Epoxy Putty

Topic by Yonatan24   |  last reply


i have an idea for a custom ergonomic mouse, and i'm hoping for someone to judge me.

Hello community, lately i've been feeling some pain in my wrist from computer usage, and while letting my wrist get some rest, i thought about getting an ergonomically designed mouse. but let's face it: it's way more fun to make one yourself =) so i have this idea for casting a mouse casing, but i never casted anything before, so i'm hoping to find some mistakes in my plan before they cost me money (I'm not stingy, i just don't have a lot of money). so i'm hoping that someone who did cast stuff before could judge my plan before i execute it. - i'll first unscrew my current mouse, and see how the electronics inside are held in place. - i'll let my hand rest in silly putty, so it'll take the shape of my hand in a relaxed position. - then i'll use silicone putty to make a negative of my hand mold. (i'm not sure whether silly putty and silicone putty are the same thing, i'm very bad at doing productive research. if they are, that's a problem, and i might need to use something else). - after i've got my negative, i'll use something like Instamorph to create the actual case i'll eventually use. i'll also make a shape for the inside to hold the elektronics. depending on how precise this has to be, i might use another mold for that too. - to finish it up, i'll take the newly made case out of it's mold, apply some custom painting (just for fun), and perhaps some rubber for extra grip, and then transfer the elektronics. so that is my plan. i hope i'll get some productive comments on this, and perhaps i'll learn something from it. i'm going to study product design, so how awesome would it be if i did it with a self-designed mouse ^_^ oh, and this might be posted in the wrong place. i haven't used this website for a while. if it is, please accept my apologies. i hate messy websited too. =P

Topic by tommiesmee   |  last reply


Semi-Solid Material? Answered

I was hoping anyone knew of or had a good suggestion for a material that fits my description. Either a rubber- like material that was softer (more malleable) than rubber, but tougher to prevent tearing or a putty-like material that would change to a firm solid when heat or a current was applied. I need something that can be molded to a specific shape and then hardened to hold that shape, but can later be returned to the non-molded shape.

Question by Sserdna   |  last reply


Hi3516 Telnet Access Error

First, I apologize for my english. I have a camera module with hi3516 SoC and have to access to hi3516 with telnet. But I couldn't that. If I begin to explain from start. I had an IPC, extracted it and now I have 3 modules (camera module, ir cut module and power/api module). First, I tried access to hi3516 as root. But I couldn't that. Then, I go on another method, telnet. I once cut the network cables of power/api module for some reason. Now I soldered them to each other and connect to internet with a rj45. Powered up camera module with 12V. I open advanced ip scanner(for detect ip address of camera module) and putty when camera module booted up. I typed ip address of camera in host name or ip address box and select telnet in connection type. Then, I clicked open button. A console window came to my screen when putty configration closed and I typed username and password correctly. But I got a warning when I typed right username and password. I can't remember how warning was. I got an error like "Login incorrect" and have to try again totally 3 times for every connection when I type wrong username and password. I followed an article for all of it. Hi3516 has embedded linux os. Article Link: http://www.hkvstar.com/technology-news/china-ip-camera-configuration-firmware.html Any ideas to help me?

Topic by Anıl Enis 


How do I put labels in a front panel? Answered

I have made a multi-connections box for my computer that fits in a 5-1/4 bay. It has four USB ports, 1 Firewire, mic and earphones and several card readers. The front panel of the box is made of plastic and painted with spray paint to cover putty patches. I want to put logos for every connector, the USB logo, the Firewire logo, a logo of a mic, a logo of an earphone and the identification of each card slot (CF, SD, MS, etc) What are the ways of doing it with a factory-like finish? ¿custom decals? ¿Screen prints? ¿Is there any instructable about the matter?

Question by jedikalimero   |  last reply


How do I put labels in a front panel?

I have made a multiconnections box for my computer that fits in a 5-1/4 bay. It has four USB ports, 1 Firewire, mic and earphones and several card readers. The front panel of the box is made of plastic and painted with spray paint to cover putty patches. I want to put logos for every connector, the USB logo, the Firewire logo, a logo of a mic, a logo of an earphone and the identification of each card slot (CF, SD, MS, etc) What are the ways of doing it with a factory-like finish? ¿custom decals? ¿Screen prints? ¿Is there any instructable about the matter?

Topic by jedikalimero 


Painting Wood

I've got some wood that I'd like to paint over, but it's currently got a fair bit of paint on it. The current paint is in fairly good shape and is just a little dirty. The problem is that the paint doesn't run all the way to the edges of the wood and cuts short about 3 cm from the edge of the wood. The paint is also peeling towards the edges. The reverse side of the wood has a few crevices running along it(kind of looks like a turtle shell) as well as a few peg holes. My plan is to sand the front all over and try and smooth the edges of the paint where the paint is peeling. For the other side, I'm going to fill in the crevices and holes with wood putty and then sand over as well. Afterwords, I'll probably apply some dual paint/primer spray paint on top to give it a smooth finish. Now, I have a few questions: 1. Will the peeling edges be a problem when I paint over the wood? 2. Since the crevices are fairly shallow and smooth out pretty easily, will wood putty be a good choice for filling them? 3. Any problems with using a dual paint/primer? Or would it be better to use a separate primer and then paint? I've never really painted anything, and this is pretty much the first real craft project I'm working on, so any advice would be great. If you think it might be a better idea to remove the paint, any ideas you have on how to do it would be great too. I've attached some pictures from various angles. You can probably guess what I'm going to be making :). Thanks.

Topic by Cold_Fire   |  last reply


Firefox bookmarks - is there any point still putting them in little folders? Answered

I've been a user of FF for many years, and have probably a couple 1000 bookmarks. More than half were setup in the old days, before I could search and tag them with the Wonderful toolbar or whatever they called it. They are saved in various bookmark folders. The tag system is much more powerful. I don't think I have used the old system to store a bookmark for a couple of years. Is there any practical reason to keep the old system, or should I just inventory and tag the old files ? How do other people handle topics in their bookmarks ?  Any pointers, as usual, much appreciated. Steve

Question by steveastrouk   |  last reply


Managed networking switch question? Answered

I am on the CCNA networking track at my local college, so a friend gave me a managed switch he was about to recycle so that I could play around with it and learn equipment that wasn't Cisco.  He said that a few ports were bad, but other than that the switch was fine.  When I power it on, the self-check light starts blinking, along with the red fault light.  I assume that is because of the bad port(s).  It does not output anything at all to putty... even during boot.  I've tried pressing the clear button and the reset button, but nothing changes. The switch is a HP Procurve 2424M.  Does anyone have a suggestion of something else I could try? Thanks!

Question by thegeekkid   |  last reply


What are some alternatives to using a soldering iron? Answered

I'm trying to put a little LED light inside my green Nintendo 64 controller (Green LED light) so that it'll glow. I found the correct terminals inside the Nintendo 64 controller to make the LED light up, problem is I have no way to stick it there. I tried glue, Silly Putty, electrical tape, normal tape, duct tape, basically whatever sticky substance I had on hand. Next I'm going to try just simple old rubber coated wire. My question is: What are some alternatives I can use instead of a soldering iron to connect my LED light to my N64 controller's circuit board?

Question by videogamemaster   |  last reply


Instructable Not Showing Up In Searches

   Hello, I have made an Instructable here out of Marshmallows: (https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Fireworks-From-Marshmallows-a-Pyrotech/)    It is a sort of Pyrotechnic Putty that I have made for use as a easily mold-able solid state fuel, I know that it has probably been caught up by the automatic filters, but it is almost 11:00 Am here in Michigan and it still has not cleared...   Does anyone know what hours that the Employees over at Instructables work..? Otherwise should I not expect it to be approved before a certain time, or is this happening because over the weekend their Instrutables HQ gets a little backed up, by the new Filter Catches, and their just getting to it..? Also if an Instructable was rejected is their anyway for me to know? Email, Notification (Ect..?) Thanks, -Shaye

Topic by TrollFaceTheMan   |  last reply


How to fix this cake stand?

Hi everyone! I bought this cake stand off ebay to use for our wedding cake. It's made of some kind of thin metal. The problem is that the upper plate seems wobbly where it attaches to the pedestal underneath. At this point I'd worry about whether it would be sturdy enough to support a 3 tier cake. I'm wondering if there's a way to re-enforce the seam between the pedestal and the plate to give it more stability? You can see the seam right below the "bowl" part of the upper plate. Would something like epoxy putty work? I'd like to avoid taking the whole thing apart if possible. (Don't mind the weird orange green colouring - I plan to spray paint the whole stand). Any advice or input would be great!

Topic by margogy   |  last reply


Can my guitar be inexpensively fixed? And if so, how?

I recently accidentally broke the head off of my Epiphone acoustic guitar. A buddy of mine who knows guitars told me I could fix it using a strong super glue (like gorilla glue), wood putty, black spray paint (the guitar is black) and painters tape. I would like to know if my guitar can be fixed this way and be playable afterwards. I would've gotten rid of it and had a new one bought but the guitar has a lot of sentimental value to me as it has helped me though the toughest of times. I'd love to get it fixed so I can do my Johnny Cash impersonations perfectly, right down to the spec of things. So, if anyone can help me, I'd really much appreciate it. "For those about to rock...."

Question by keaglez_2011   |  last reply


Help with a cast metal coin instructable!

Need help finding a particular instructable, friends.  I would almost bet body parts that I saw an instructable here that had the following process to it for making a custom fantasy coin or medallion: Use the underside  bottom of a paper coffee cup-mix up a portion of Bondo and fill the bottom recess with it.  When Bondo hardens, pop out the round disc, paste a paper disc onto it then draw out your coin or medallion design.  Carve out your design with a dremel or similar, make a silicone putty mold, then when mold is dry, pour pewter or zinc to make a custom coin. Darken and polish. I know I've seen it, I'm wanting to stick it in my favorites list so I don't lose it again, and I especially want to thank the author for coming up with such a simple process for a custom medallion. Can anyone help me?

Topic by pheenix42   |  last reply


Bonus Build Night - LEDs!!!!!!!

50 SPACES AVAILABLE Deadline to sign up: Monday, June 16. Accepted spaces will be notified by June 17. BUILD NIGHT DETAILS The Instructables team recently inherited 23 boxes of 10mm LEDs (approximately 110,000 LEDs) and we decided the best use for them would be a Build Night!! We want to see how EPIC you can get with a large amount of LEDs (although simple projects are fine as well). We will be selecting 50 spaces to receive the following (note these numbers are approximate): 8 bags of 10mm assorted color LEDs (approx. 2200 LEDs) ~$800 40 3V coin cell batteries ~$75 Bonus Giveaway: 2 spaces will be selected to receive 50 silly putty eggs, 10 lbs of black iron oxide (materials to make magnetic silly putty). There will be a special section on the signup form if you would like to be considered for this. HOW TO PARTICIPATE: Host a Build Night: pick a night in July or August (any night) to host a project build night using the LEDs and batteries. Post 2 Instructables: post 2 Instructables using the LEDs. (Not posting these Instructables will affect your chances to participate in future build nights). SIGN UP - Please only sign up if you are able to complete the requirements listed above This is a 2-step sign up process.  YOU MUST COMPLETE BOTH TO FULLY SIGN UP. Fill out this google form. You will then receive a private message in your Instructables inbox by June 17 asking for your shipping information. You cannot receive the LEDs without completing this step. RESOURCES: LED Instructables Projects Instructables App (for documentation during the build night): iOS and Android JOIN OUR ANNOUNCEMENT LIST If you are interested in being directly notified about future build nights fill out this form. You will receive an e-mail when the events are announced in the forums. If you have signed up for a past build night or this build night you are already on our announcement list. ABOUT BUILD NIGHTS Instructables is sponsoring monthly build nights at makerspaces and hackerspaces around the world. Each month we partner with a different company to send you materials and/or tools to run a workshop at your space. In return your space posts Instructables from your build night.

Topic by Carleyy   |  last reply


Craft project ideas for hospitalized patients

The mission of The Crafting for Charity Club is to assist other charitable organizations and nonprofit groups by providing craft skills education and organizing the creation of handmade arts and crafts. That being said, we have been asked to make craft kits and teach craft skills to bed ridden patients at a local hospital. This will be a long-term thing for us and we need as many ideas as we can get. Another thing we need to consider is projects for parents to work on with their kids. We've got the following ideas so far: scrapbook kits crocheting knitting card making embroidery/cross stitch making games jewelry We've been told we could even make playdough and silly putty! While we have general ideas, we could use as much help as we can get for specific instructions. This isn't something we're going to sell these things, they are purely for use in charitable purposes. That being said, we will likely post our patterns in our members only section of our website.

Topic by auntwrenny   |  last reply


creating a ball mill and making thermite

I have come across a few 'instructables' which show how to create a ball mill. This mainly uses an electric powered screw driver, a plastic bottle, some ball bearings (I will use lead even though steel would suffice) some epox putty and a vice clamp.. However some points of the instructable was unclear. I came across several electric drills, where the button was situated in a place that meant it was not possible to secure to the on position, also they seem to either go to slow or too fast. Finally with the weight of a significant amount of aluminium and lead/steel balls, I found the bottle section weighed too much and caused stress on the drill bit which caused it to dislocate and fall out, or in the second case.. the motor just gave up. My two questions. 1.is there a better instructable which addresses the problem of supporting the plastic bottle . 2. would a mixture of aluminium powder and charcoal (german dark) work better than aluminium powder? would the ratio of dark powder and iron oxide change? i gather that aluminium oxidises, is that bad? i don't really see how it's possible to avoid oxidisation without the charcoal.

Topic by redkoatz 


BLUETOOTH INTERFACING WITH 8051(AT89C/S51/52) PLZ HELP

Hello guruz, recently i bought n bluetooth UART module (http://robokits.co.in/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products;_id=354) RKI 1545 I tried interfacing it with 8051 using the 10,11 pin UART pins, using SCON register(mode1) baud rate 9600. But there is no reception or transmission. However the bt module is working fine. Passed the loop feedback test(joined theRx to Tx pin of module standalone....link established echo received on Putty on WIN7 and blueterm android app )   CODE: #include void ini()     // Initialize Timer 1 for serial communication { TMOD=0x20;  //Timer1, mode 2, baud rate 9600 bps TH1=0XFD; SCON=0x51; TR1=1; } void recieve()  //Function to receive serial data { unsigned char value; while(RI==0); value=SBUF; P1=value; RI=0; } void transmit()  // Funtion to transmit serial data { P2=0xF4; SBUF=P2; while(TI==0); TI=0; SBUF=P1; while(TI==0); TI=0; } void main() { while(1) {   ini();   recieve();   transmit(); } }

Topic by skumar112   |  last reply


Deadmau5 head with plastic / wood / fiberglass ears? Do I need to mold them using body filler and glass fiber?

I'm going to use deadmau5's cheese head as it is visibly the best for an example. The ears are made of a hardened material with a gloss finish. The holes through them seem to clearly show that they are not foam underneath. I was curious as to how I could achieve the same effect and strength. I've seem some exquisite models of helmets here and in particular individuals who have created the daft punk helmets. They created molds. I've never used fiberglass / body filler / etc but I'm a rapid learner and I'm willing to suffer trial and error like anyone else. I was curious though, if it is possible to take the styrofoam ear and then coat the ear with bondo (or another body filler/putty) to create that hardened mold and then primer, paint and gloss it. Can someone with experience with these materials shed some light. I really want to achieve this look! Here is a video of the cheese head when it was unveiled: Thanks in advance guys. I can be contacted via email at "sip_deco_c@hotmail.com" if required. Help would be greatly appreciated! Peace, Deco

Question by TopdeK   |  last reply


Any ideas on making a fairly realistic Jason mask (Friday the 13th)??

I'm looking to make a realistic, fairly inexpensive Jason (Friday the 13th, hockey mask, machete-wielding badass) mask for my Halloween costume and I need some help. The only affordable masks I'm finding are flimsy plastic ones like the one on the photo below or foam masks that look like they're for a 5 year old. I've seen some pretty good fiberglass ones on ebay (like the one in the second picture I've included), but they run over a $100....and none of them are exactly what I want. So, I want to make one.... I'm thinking I can take one of the cheap plastic ones and alter it....I want to do more than just paint it though. I want to make the mask more rigid and appear more like resin or fiberglass than plastic. So, I need some sort of liquid or putty that looks something like resin to cover the mask in that will make the mask more rigid and still allow me to paint on it. and I'll probably drill some more holes to match the ones in the movie and put leather straps on it. any thoughts? anyone made a Jason mask before that could offer some advice?

Topic by movieguy711   |  last reply


What New Useful Products Have You Recently Become Acquainted With ?

Here is My list. I recently saw an ible about sugru. Had neverheard of it, before  but can see its usefulness. Kind of expensive and not generally available. Have seen polymer clays, but cant see how it would replace epoxy putty Available at craft shops. Have heard Rescue tape ( fusible silicon ) . I haven't had a use for it, but it seems to be a great repair tape. It was available at Craftwood  Lumber, so it is a mass market product. Expensive, but can see it's potential worth. I'll wait til. I need it before I buy it. The oscillating tools have come down in price. Not exactly new, but extremely useful especially for people whose shop is their desk or kitchen table. If I were to have one power tool, it probably would still be the cordless drill driver. But if I were allowed a second power tool, this would be it. Blades are expensive.  Demolition Bags are very useful and cheap and generally available. I recently saw a device for bending PVC pipe. I have avoided using PVC because of the joints. I prefer thin metal conduit because it can be bent with the pipe bender I was able to acquire. That being said, the Pipe Viper may  be worthwhile. I am considering a small greenhouse made of arched PVV pipe and clear sheeting.  

Topic by Wilmette   |  last reply


Controlling ServoBlaster with Keyboard Keys?

I am working on a project involving multiple servos, a pi, Servoblaster, and a short period of time left. What i was wondering, is that is there a "interface" of sorts for servoblaster that would allow me to control the servos with keys on my keyboard? I saw a thread where someone made an interface where you could switch between servo pins using left and right arrow keys, and adjust the servo with the up and down arrow keys. However, this could only be done one at a time. What i want, is to be able to control all 7 servos with 14 keys. Because of the lack of time (This is needs to be done before next week Saturday) i don't care if i have to access terminal with putty to control said interface. (A web page would be nice, but again, lack of time, and first i need the actual interface.) It really isn't an interface, i guess... I don't need to see what i am pushing/what is happening, so long as the servos move when the keys are pressed. I have a custom ./servod, which basically changes pin layout, and the max and min for the servos. Beyond that, ServoBlaster is vanilla. How would i do this? I haven't written any code for Servoblaster, nor any massive coding in general (I know basics of Python, nothing more.) Is there something like this that exists? Anyone have free time to make it? I am willing to try, so long as i am told what needs to be done. (Time is short, and i am busy. Though, i will still make an effort.) Thanks for your time!

Topic by RocketPenguin   |  last reply


Making water cooled shoes need some advice about thin copper tube fittings.

Essentially i want to make water cooled shoes from some of the spares i have from my old pc water-cooling set up.  I want to run some thin copper tubing around the shoe which will connect to the some metal fittings that will then connect to my rubber tubing and then to the pump and the radiator. Now i know about the fittings that are available for the regular copper tubing that runs in houses but this tubing will be around 4mm and im not sure how to connect this tubing to my metal fittings which are about 3/8th of an inch i believe.  I was thinking to just use some epoxy putty or something but im sure there are better ways to do this. so any ideas?  im sure fittings are available but i dont know what they're called i couldn't get anything with a quick google search.  Edit: i didn't realise response here would be so thoughtful and all. I dont want to be able to walk around in these i just want to sit in my room and be comfortable. The heat difference probably wouldn't be too large between my feet and the air for a huge transfer so i also had thought to add a small water bath with a second small radiator init.  The copper tubing doesnt have to be directly under my feet i realise they'd probably be crushed otherwise. but the heat conduction through them must be so much better then the plastic tubing. 

Topic by rajr110   |  last reply


Easiest/cheapest way for a beginner to cast custom plastic parts?

I tried searching, but I couldn't find anything that fit exactly what I want to do.I have a hard plastic figure and I'd like to be able to create removable pieces, such as armor, for it.I'm thinking that what I need to do is to sculpt what I want to make directly over the figure using some type of modeling material, make a mold of that and then cast it in the final material? I'd like the finished pieces to be strong and durable, and not fragile/brittle.I even thought of sculpting the pieces directly out of epoxy putty since people say it's strong and rock hard when cured, but I've never used it before and I wouldn't know how to keep the pieces from adhering to the figure, but still let them stick until they've begun to set and then be removed without deforming them. I don't want to damage the figure or end up with bits of material permanently stuck to it.Please keep in mind that I have NEVER made a mold or cast anything before. I have no fancy equipment and I live in a relatively small town with virtually none of the specialty stores that every other DIYer in the US seems to live five minutes away from. I see Halloween projects where they say you'll need a quart of liquid latex and that you can get it at any theater supply shop for about $10. Um no. More like five ounces for $10 at a craft store. If I can't get it at a mainstream chain store, I'd probably have to order it online and I would really like to avoid spending $50+ for something that's just a fun project.What would be the easiest and cheapest way to do this?

Question by BobS135   |  last reply


LCD Monitor Repair

Congrats! Instead of throwing away your broken LCD monitor, you've decided to fix it. What do you have too loose by attempting the repair yourself? It's already heading for the trash can or the e-waste center. By repairing it you will probably save from $100 to $200 or more! If you have done any reading at all on the web, you have already discovered that bad capacitors account for a large percentage of all LCD monitor failures. If your monitor flickers when you start it up, the screen is dim, has strange lines on it, clicks, etc., then this information is just for you! The repair does not require any special knowledge or skill. About the only tools you will need are a putty knife, a screwdriver, a pair of pliers and a Radio Shack soldering iron. Without getting into too much technical jargon, there are two main components inside your monitor, the power board which powers the inverter (lights) and video, and the video board. The power supply circuit board must be removed before you can replace the capacitors. You must open your monitor and examine the capacitors on the power supply board. Each monitor will have a power supply circuit board. Each monitor model will have a slightly different board. They all look about the same. Some have more capacitors, some have less. Most all LCD monitors have a large 400v capacitor. These rarely go bad. There's a video at www.youtube.com/watch that shows you how to disassemble a Viewsonic monitor, and install new capacitors. This is a great video! There's also a good tutorial that shows how to completely disassemble a Samsung 204T LCD Monitor. It's a step by step guide, which also includes a "how to solder" video. Although this tutorial is for a Samsung 204T LCD monitor, the information found here can be applied to almost any monitor. Between the YouTube video on the Viewsonic monitor and the tutorial you should have no problem installing new capacitors in your LCD monitor. Good Luck!

Topic by sghill99 


Upper Part of Window won't come down and its covering the screen?

Bought a home in November. After crazy requirements for my bank loan and township requirements, the past owner hired his nephew, and let's just say, he went a little paint crazy. Yes inspection wise and walk through wise we opened the windows. (These are the old chain windows)  I honestly don't remember if the top part of the window were pulled down to test. But I know the bottoms opened at one point. I moved in, and since it was winter, I never thought anything about it. Fast forward to today....dying to open some windows. Got the bottoms up with resistance and then realized the screens were pulled all the way up to the top behind the upper window with a lock on them. Went to pull down the top part of the window to get the screen and they won't budge at all. Can't pull the screen down from the outside because of the lock. This is only on 5 windows on the first floor and 1 in the upstairs bathroom. The two rooms downstairs that are the problems are my living room and dining room, yet we did not have a problem with two very small windows that frame the others . (same age and type of window, just half the size in width)We were able to do my bedroom no problem. Got chisels and putty knives etc....they aren't budging. I heard to also try on the outside since they may have been painted out there too. I also heard they may be nailed or screwed in. All of the windows appear to be the same type and age (the house was built in 1930...unfortunately I do think they are original to the house) We will try from the outside and also check for screws. My fear is that it is just the age of them. Any other ideas???? A side question that may sound stupid? If I can't get them down, is there any way to get temp screens already made to put in on the bottom since I can't get the ones that are there down? We have heavy duty screen that we used to redo my porch door after my dog put a hole in it...I'm very close to stapling it up to the windows or something because I'm already feeling hot and claustrophobic !!! : )

Question by catem   |  last reply


Ch, 4 In Which Mikeasaurus comes to Instructables and I Build Portal Stuff

Hey Instructabrarians! SHIFT! here to give you all of the semi-recent goings on at Instructables Laboratories!  Last week, our facility opened it's doors to our newest team member Mikeasaurus!  He's been a long time user and fan of the site (you might remember him from such classic 'ibles like Wristwatch Turntables, the very Blade Runner-esque Umbrella Light, and most recently the popular Magnetic Putty ) and we are pleased to have him join us.  So far, he's done a terrific job helping me out with shipping out packages as well as being a fantastic go to guy for any Photoshop editing needs!  As for me, awhile ago for one of our in-house contests, I was looking for unique ways to liven up our lab at Instructables HQ. My inspiration finally from a picture of the iconic cake, from the first Portal game, that hangs – on our bathroom door. I thought it would be really fun to create some kind of companion piece alongside it, and decided to make a couple of themed papercraft models based on the game.  For my first craft I decided to make something that would help protect Instructables’ top secret information from unwanted intruders and rogue test subjects. “Hey”, I thought, “why not the militaristic Turret defenses?” This deadly craft was designed by deviantart’s billybob884 using Pepakura software. He has done some amazing work with papercrafts and Portal and was responsible for designing my amazing GLaDOS papercraft I enlarged 24 X for our recent Game.Life Contest. (“Oh, So NOW you’re going to mention Me? [[=REDACTED=]], you Monster.”) Next, I constructed a tiny 1- inch craft, the fan favorite friendly Companion Cube, desktop edition for our editor-in-chief zazenergy. This craft was designed by user Moony for the /po/ board on 4chan.com Just the thing to help zazenergy with some normal day to day testing!  Finally I created the FrankenTurret that was featured in Portal 2 which (spoiler alert) is a horrific combination of the Aperture Science Weighted Storage Cube. This cool miniature craft, however, came from digitprop.com and was given to Mikeasaurus, who is another fellow Portal fan of our lab. I also have future plans for a fully functioning one and plan to submit it to our Simplebots curator and designer Randofo sometime soon. Anyway, I love Portal and Papercrafts so this seemed like a perfect combination to me. I have a few more Full-Scale versions for some of our upcoming contests, so that should be really interesting. -SHIFT! EDIT: I had pictures of Mike in our office, but can't seem to find them anywhere, sadly.  

Topic by SHIFT!   |  last reply