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RECUMBENT ELECT HUB RIM?

HEY WHATS UP  I GOT A QUICK QUESTION SHOULD I RUN A FRONT RIM OR REAR RIM ELECTRIC HUB   WHAT IS THE PROS AND CONS FOR BOTH

Question by GINOOO    |  last reply


How can I lengthen a bicycle axle? Answered

I want to install a different rear wheel on my OCC Schwinn Stingray. The giant distance between the dropouts means no standard hubs are available to fit the space. If I have a nipple and short bit of axle welded or otherwise attached to the end of the standard axle would that work? Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.?

Question by cjbikenut    |  last reply


How to disassemble the rear bike sprocket ?

I am working on an electric bike/ cart thing. I can either use an extremely small tire (scooter) and the chain that fits that sprocket, or a bike tire and sprocket. I have limited resources and money. I have an old rear wheel sprocket from a bmx mike. This was cut down about a year ago and was not done very well. The sprocket is not level. i was wondering if there is a way to pluck the center piece, i think it's the hub, out of the sprocket to just use the toothed part. without cutting or welding as i no longer have my grinder and have no access to a welder right now.

Question by NativeSs    |  last reply


how do you rebuild a rear wheel hub with coaster brake on a schwinn beach cruiser ?

I have all the parts but i'm unable to assemble the hub

Question by mrmouth    |  last reply


what is the best way to adjust mtn bike frame rear hub spacing for conversion to 3-spd coaster brake rear axle?

looking to build a 3-spd coaster brake chopper with steel mtn bike frame. Need to reduce rear axle spacing from 135 mm to 120 mm to accommodate the new wheelset. How?

Question by zounds227    |  last reply


How to develop electronic differential for articulated rear drive e-trike using the steering angle in Matlab/Simulink?

One wheel at the front and two wheels at the rear,steering mechanism

Question by SachinK114    |  last reply


how to get a stuck bearing cup out?

I was taking apart my rear wheel, when I noticed the lack of bearing balls and appropriate parts. I wanted to remove the bearing so I can replace it with a new one, however when I was attempting to remove the last cup of the bearing, it is stuck in the hub. The local mechanic couldn't get it out and said I needed a whole new cassette and hub; I was hoping there was some nifty way I could remove it.

Question  


FIRST TIMER NEEDS HELP

HELLO ! I HAVE A RECUMBENT TRIKE,2 WHEELS AT FRONT IN MY RESEARCH I READ THAT AN ELECTRIC MOTOR CAN ALSO FUNCTION AS A GENERATOR MY QUESTION IS ,ÁS I PEDAL, CAN I USE 2 HUB MOTORS AS GENERATORS ON THE FRONT WHEELS TO FEED 2 LITHIUM BATTERIES VIA A CONTROLLER TO POWER THE REAR HUB MOTOR? THANKS  ALANJERSEY

Topic by alanjersey    |  last reply


Hub motorized 4 wheel drive wireless electric skateboard kit  

Landwheel drive is the newest drive system for skateboards that can be mounted under any deck. Just unscrew your rear truck and replace it with the landwheel Drive .    Specification of Landwheel Skateboard Drive:   Model Landwheel Drive( Dual Brushless in-wheel motors) Distance 20km Power 2 X 1100W Max load: 120kg Max Grade 20% Waterproof Water and dust proof (IP65) Frame Material Aluminum alloy + ABS Battery Li-Poly batteries Range 12-15km Weight 3.2kg (Include Battery) Size: 313 x 174 x 41 mm Certificate CE, FCC, RoHs, MSDS, UN38.3     Details of electric skateboard drive : 1. The Motors Two in-wheel motors Power 2* 1100w  Topspeed  35km/h Maximum Grade 20% Water and dust proof (IP65) Freewheeling when you push Exchangeable wheels 2.The Frame Solid magnesium single frame Click-in mechanism for the battery   3. The Battery Pack Range 12-15km Charge 2-4hours Weight 700g        Energy 94.08Wh    Capacity 3200mah Swappable via click-in mechanism Certified for airtravel Water and dust proof (IP54)   4. The Remote One button device Switch between 2 riding modes LED displaying state of charge Rubber coated for better grip Safety wrist strap

Topic by Hollie hua  


Cycling Power Meter Details? Answered

Hello, I was wondering if someone could tell me what the specific electronic components of a typical cycling power meter are and how they work together?  The picture is of one by Power Tap that is located in the rear wheel hub.  I'd like to try to build something similar.  All I know is that it uses strain gauges.  I have zero electronics experience but I'm hoping to learn by working the problem backwards. Thanks in advance.

Question by Starbuckaneer    |  last reply


HPV Frame SNEAK PEAK!

Oooo baby! Tacked togehter. You're butt.... 7 inches off the ground. Ground clearance - ~3" It's missing a few components though - like a chain and a tie rod (for Ackerman steering). But that's a Nexus8 Hub in a 650 rear wheel (and we're working on securing a 700C if we can make a drop out adapter to fit the shimano road derailleurs). And yes, that's a Carbon Fiber Seat which just so happens to mold to my back perfectly - and accommodate my giraffe like neck (I think I'm the tallest sitting down because of that) :P

Topic by trebuchet03    |  last reply


Ideas for winter cycling needed. Is it possible to have a removable "convertible" attachment on a bike?

My husband and I are thinking about selling our VW bus and living without a vehicle.  We take public transportation regularly for longer distances and bike a lot.  But selling our VW bus would mean that we would not be able to rely on it in times of foul weather.  I picture making a "convertible" cover for my bicycle, where I could cover myself during poor weather -- something sort of like the typical child trailer: http://www.flickr.com/photos/yewenyi/3921754932/ But an attachment that would only be attached when the weather was bad.  I thought it would have to attach onto the rear wheel hub and the head tube and be primarily made of heavy clear plastic.  Can anyone here envision something like this?  Is it feasible?

Question by TiffaneyD    |  last reply


Faraday generator for your bicycle led light

I'm looking for a way to make a Faraday generator of some sort to put on my bikes rear wheel to power my led lights( a 56LED 3-1.5v AA's and 26LED 3-1.5v AAA's. I found something close that may work with some design changes. I found a magnet site with a magnet that could work with the wheel. I would mount it to the rim itself and put the copper coil attached to the bike. The problem is winding the coil of copper wire, gauge and what type of direction to make it. And the possible use of ultra capacitors or a built in charging system for the batteries. I would need a minimum voltage of 9 volts for the lights to run. The way the example light works is with a fly wheel and the bike's rim would take that place. The design is pretty simple and should work fine. The hub is 1.5" diameter and .5" deep with room across for the bundle of wound wires. Just looking for input and if anyone has thought of this before. Thanks.

Topic by mpramse    |  last reply



Bulb problems on iped?

I have an iped electric moped with pedals which I believe has a in hub motor ( haven't looked yet) the problem I have is this the replacement bulbs are almost impossible to find The headlight for example is a 55volt 36/36 which I am finding impossible to find  the rear brake light is 55 volt 15/15 watt unsure of the wedge bulb parking light which is 5mm width and there is definitely no 55 volt wedge bulbs this size The only conclusion I can think of is to insert a dc converter which will drop the voltage to each bulb from 55v to 12v giving me more availability on bulb selection I am just curious if any one on hear knows where I can get 55volt bulbs ? I also noticed a post on here regarding someone looking for extra speed and was answered with disconnecting the grey loop wires under the top cowling Well done that man you gave good advice I done mine myself and yes the increase is there I don't know if I have to keep looking for answers on this but my email is nickcorish@gmail.com if anyone can help Many Thanks all Nick

Question by fosters1967  


Play with fire, sleep less, launch a rocket, slice bottles...

Function clickclear(thisfield, defaulttext) {if (thisfield.value == defaulttext) {thisfield.value = "";}}Sign-up for our newsletter subscribe August 30, 2007 Welcome back!With a three-day weekend ahead you have more time than ever to try out some new projects. Check out some great ideas below. Make your own Embossed Business Cards using Acid Etching Etch, press, and print your way to some unique cards.posted by bofthem on Aug 30, 2007 How to bind your own Hardback Book The art of book binding is an ancient craft, but actually it is not very difficult to do.posted by KaptinScarlet on Aug 29, 2007 Build an antique style crystal radio Enoy your radio the truly old-fashioned way.posted by Ohm on Aug 29, 2007 Wiimote Rubens Tube: Control Fire With Sound! (And a Nintendo Wiimote!) Fire + music + Wiimote? What could go wrong with that?posted by ScaryBunnyMan on Aug 28, 2007 Quick Banana Nut Bread You can't argue with a dessert that takes just five minutes to make.posted by RealSimple.com on Aug 24, 2007 Get published in Real Simple magazine! $1,500 top prize!Ends this weekend! Soar to great heights. Launch It: Patriot Model Rocket Make your own rocket. No kit required!posted by kruser495 on Aug 27, 2007 Rebuild a bicycle rear hub Become a bike whiz and learn to fix most freewheel hubs on the market today.posted by Prometheus on Aug 27, 2007 How to use a wet tile saw to cut glass bottles Discover the joys of using a wet tile saw to cut glass.posted by WUVIE on Aug 27, 2007 Gas Grill Renovation Bring your grill back from the dead for Labor Day weekend.posted by digrat on Aug 26, 2007 Polyphasic Sleep Live your life on just 2-3 hours of sleep a day.posted by rachel on Aug 24, 2007 Now go build something awesome, and I'll see you next week! -Eric

Topic by lebowski  


OFFERED: IBM "Mainframe"

. I have an IBM computer that was used to run a local oil refinery. It has two cabinets (62"H x 36"D x 26"W) that I'm guessing weigh somewhere around 250 pounds each, three terminals (one appears to be "smart"), a few misc pieces of network cable (not Cat5, some kind of coax) and what appears to be a network hub. Approx 10 feet of manuals. . One cabinet is marked: Type 9309 S/N 10-0046692 and contains a 3/4" (maybe 1") mag tape drive (quite a bit of damage to the door, but the transport looks OK) and five PSUs (220VAC in, not sure of the out specs). The rear door is marked "9309 2" . The other cabinet is marked: Type 9309 S/N 10-0074115 and contains a 10" floppy and what appears to be the CPU. . That's everything I know about it. If you can tell me what to look for and where it is on the unit, I'll look for it. . I've never seen it powered up, so I have no idea what, if anything, works. . Located in South Arkansas, US. You must pick up. I will not deliver nor arrange for delivery. It was delivered in a "standard" pickup truck, but the springs were sagging a bit. . Would like to trade for something useful, but will consider free-to-good-home. . Please remember that this thing is huge, heavy, and not much use as a computer (I had dreams of using it for "home control" eg, HVAC, security). If you don't have the resources to come get it, please don't ask questions, 'cuz I've already told you all I know about it.

Topic by NachoMahma    |  last reply


Solar powered go kart with interesting body design.

Hello forum and thanks for your attention. Its common practice for the average engineer to build a go kart. Lets put that gas engine to the side and put something that will benefit our environment. I'm talking solar energy, you know, the energy source that does not pollute. Ok so I wasn't bluffing when I said I had your attention right? ok. First off is the stating the problem. Problem: limited distance with inefficient vehicles. We heavily rely on environment polluting machines that limit our range of travel and actually costing us more and more money to refuel. Hybrid cars were invented to bandaid the problem .....keyword bandaid. They are very expensive the way technology is now and they still use gasoline. .... They are simply an expensive and half step solution to the problem leading most consumers to buy gasoline only cars regardless. my guess hypothesis: If you create a car or vehicle for vague definition that is very very affordable, safe, easy to maintain and gives 3 to 4 times more mileage than your average economy car by utilizing pure electric and solar energy (electric) , then you will win consumers and help the environment. my project will try to solve the problem on a 16 year old boy's financial level and try to prove my hypothesis 90% true. Join me forum in my quest please. As of now i'm thinking 3 wheel vehicle 7ft by 3 ft. 2 idle steering wheels in the front with a hub motor wheel in the rear. Based upon affordability I'm thinking around 1000w to 1500 watts. with a 36 or 48v system. solar panels I plan on making myself by buying individual cells with good efficiency. As or right now I am working on a budget of $2000 and is in desperate need of what parts to buy. Hope to hear from the forum. Thanks.

Topic by Marquez Santos    |  last reply


Replacing lead acid batteries in an electric bike battery pack.

Hi folks. Several years ago I replaced the batteries in my ex's bike, when I dismantled what I assumed to be the battery pack in it's original state it contained six 6v (16ah if I recall correctly) batteries, I bought identical batteries & wired them into the box exactly as it had been before & unsurprisingly it worked perfectly. The bike is now mine and as I said that was several years ago, the bike has seen a lot of use since & the pack has been discharged & recharged sometimes several times a week ever since, the bike is now lacking power, hills it used to climb with ease are now becoming a struggle & the bike is generally not as fast as it use to be so I have been looking around for another set of batteries planning to replace them once again. When I started looking around the web for suitable replacements for my model of bike every site I found with deals for a battery set lists not six 6v but three 12v, dimension wise they are not a problem as the three batteries will fit quite nicely into the box but I have to admit I was a little surprised. I will be honest I'm not as well versed on things like electric bikes as I would like to be & frankly the whole thing is a bit of a mystery to me, ask me for a table a workbench a garden swing or a shed & I'm your man, I can rebuild computers & set up networks without a problem and there are plenty of other things that I'm very good at but with this stuff I need advice. My question is simply this, is there any advantage or disadvantage for that matter to using three 12v 15Ah rather than six 6v 16ah batteries. I would prefer answers in plain simple layman's terms rather than lots of technical jargon, if it helps the bike is a Thompson Euro Classic with a 36v lead acid battery pack and rear hub motor, admittedly a bit of a dinosaur in electric bike terms but it still gets me around well enough I'd just like to get a bit more power out of it. Thanks in advance for any help. NG.

Topic by Nostalgic Guy    |  last reply


Help for completion of Knee Walker Project ?

Hi Everyone I have a problem with a project I started to overcome my unique disability , this project was to basically install low powered electric motor on a kneewalker so I could get assistance / go off-road , yet still use it manually if need be i.e. to get some exercise or more importantly if battery dies ( something I cant do with mobility scooter or wheelchair  ) The problem however is I cant do this myself due my disability ( weld it , use power tools etc ) so I had this person i meet on a another  forum who agreed to help me - but unfortunately he hasnt   - so instead I am trying to find a replacement for him or any one that is willing to help. The motor itself ( Motor - MW12B GoldenMotor  )seems to work fine using a Lyens controller , but  unfortunately there is no direct link to the hub motor whose details are below. Model: MW12B -- 12" Motor Wheel Voltage:36V (Brushless) Power Rate:250W Weight: 4.8Kgs You will have to got to the gm website on the link above click on hub motors and scroll down to find more details , including links to 3d drawings . You can see the motor itself working in following videos that were posted by the person who still has it video1 video2 video3 Due to the size difference of the wheel  ( 16" compared to the front 9" using MTB tires ) amongst other things, we were  trying to find a way to mount it that he suggested would probably involve having to weld on some strong rear forks from a bike  or perhaps something else. Ive included the whole assessment / plan we did based on our mutual ideas and discussions below for reference, but Im afraid thats pretty much it , as I dont have any of the parts here for reference or than the basic facts . If any ones interested in helping , or going me any advice Id be grateful for your suggestions , if any ones wants to offer their services at a price just send me a pm and we discuss things further. thanks for listening , heres the assessment / plan I mentioned.. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I need to figure out a rough plan for the wheel mounting, plus brake mounting. We need to get disc and caliper. We need to figure out what front wheels, how to mount them, and how to fix the sloppy steering. In order to go see a welder we need to know where to weld the dropouts, the caliper mounts, and what, if any welding to do at the front end. Assessment Frame - good, solid, heavy. bulletproof. Wheels - strong, solid, better made with bearings etc better than expected. but hard tires are not nice, and wheels are a little too thin and too small. I expect its easy to get hung up on small obstacles. brakes - crap. none existent basically. Just a bit of metal pushing on the tyre. Also the lever is either crap or a bit broken. need to inspect it. steering - not very good but not crap. whole linkgae is a bit loose and wobbly, just held together by a few bolts. this means it has a fair bit of play in the steering. The whole thing with the bolts is that they have to be a bit loose otherwise the steering won't move. not a very good design. but it will do. handlebars/stem/steerer - designed to be collapsible easily, which is good, but there is also excessive play in this as well. it will do but its not great. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Thoughts.... Because there is four wheels, I found that on uneven floors (just around the front room the floorboards were uneven enough) one wheel is often off the ground a tiny bit. This would be solved by having 3 wheels or tyres with a bit of give in them. I would not want to keep any of the wheels. I would want to replace the front wheels with something a bit wider softer and grippier. like scooter wheels or MTB wheels. Brakes - the center of gravity is quite far forward. if it had brakes only on the front then i feel like it might tip over. then again, with the weight of the frame, the motor, batteries and person, maybe not. I will do some testing. Motors - Golden has the 8" single sided solid tyre motors that would be the easiest conversion, but I don't like the solid tyres and I don't like having 2 wheels at the back. I already ran into my foot. There is also the 8" double sided solid tire. This is not so easy either because it is the same size as the existing wheels therefore the axle would want to go exactly where the existing axles join. Could be done with cutting and welding but would be a pain, plus you still have the solid tire etc. I held up a 12" dinner plate and I reckon it would not look so bad actually. I will take some pics tomorrow. It looks like we would need to cut off a bit of the back section and weld on some dropouts, a bit higher up and further in than the existing axle mounts.. It looks like it will fit under the knee platform ok as well. Controller - because we may well end up with a motor that is not exactly right for the job, I think its all the more important we get a controller with some intelligence. Something programmable where we can set a low voltage, top speed etc. This leads us back to the GM controller, Lyens mini monster, or......I just thought, hmmm the kelly controllers are programmable - well they do a little controller that might be up for the job as well. In fact it looks the most programmable one so far. It is the mini one next to the coke can here: Hub & Wheel Motor Controller | EV Parts They have one that does 12-24v for $79 or $99 depending on max amps. You can get it waterproof for an extra $19 http://kellycontroller.com/kbs2405120a1 ... p-499.html It is fully programmable, see the software screenshots and manual here: Kelly KBS controllers online demo/help-Kelly Controls, LLC http://kellycontroller.com/mot/download ... Manual.pdf You need a serial port on your computer to program it, if you don't have one you need a serial to USB converter. They sell one for $29. Kelly are good controllers. I never thought of them until just now - I usually associate them with high power controllers for cars and motorbikes. When I used to work at Sevcon (who make argubaly the best...and most expensive...controllers you can get.)....kelly was one of the few competitors we kept an eye on. If you look at the setup software, you can fine tune min throttle, max throttle, max amps, max speed, all kinds of things. It will be just the ticket for fine tuning. --------------------------------------------------------------------- So........... This would be my personal plan right now - Electronics: $115 Motor - MW12B (GM) $98 kelly controller waterproofed $29 Serial RS232 to USB converter (from kelly) $20 throttle (max) $20 ebrake lever (max) $50 wiring, connectors, etc -------- $332 Frame / Fabrication: $50 old steel bike to steal dropouts off (maximum, probably less from craigslist or a garage sale) $150 to pay someone to weld the dropouts on and maybe brake caliper mounts plus machine front wheel mounts if necessary for new wheels (maximum) $50 (max) 2 front wheels MTB or scooter 8 inch with pneumatic tyres. $30 (max) new axles, bolts, washers etc $30 box for battery plus mounting bolts etc $50 (max) for respray or powdercoat frame (will be messy after welding. something to put the battery in ----------------------- $360 Brakes $20 (max) brake disk for rear plus screw on adapter for rear hub Brake discs $40 (max) brake caliper (cable ok, hydraulic not needed) $50 bolt on brake caliper mount (seen them somewhere but can't find right now) price is a guess. --------------------------- $110 Battery depends. I am clueless as to the requirements of this system. I can test with my own batteries once it is setup. Then we will know, but at a minimum you will be talking about 18 or 24v 10 amp hour. That is : $199 from ping

Topic by hele    |  last reply