We designed a circuit . But it is drawing 70mA of current. I want tot reduce it for atleast 30-40mA.
Question by SunnyJ1 | last reply
I am currently building an RC hovercraft, I plan to use a single 12 volt 2.1 amp hr lead acid battery to feed both the lift fan for the skirt and the power motor for the drive. However the fan for the skirt is 12v 0.3 amps. How can I reduce the feed to the required amperage with out affecting the other feed from the same battery that will power the drive
Topic by Seafarer77 | last reply
I own an electric scooter the problem is they desided when they bult it that it would use a 52.9 volt dc light which I can't go any ware local and buy I need to bring the dc volts down to what a car uses then I can so the that kind of light bulb for a car can some one could please tell me what electronic parts I would need that would be of great help you can contact me @ firstname.lastname@example.org ?
Question by Cleasonsook | last reply
While on vacation last week, I was trying to watch a sophisticated, complex movie (something with Muppets) on a laptop and was having trouble hearing the audio through headphones, due to the general loudness of my family.Is it possible to actively reduce noise through computer software? I assume that the programming itself would not be too complex, but I don't know if the time taken to process microphone input and use it to modify audio output would be too slow. The only place I found through Google that discussed this was a forum wherein the members couldn't get past the concept of attaching a microphone to a headset. I also found a schematic with instructions for building headsets, but I would prefer a .exe file.
Topic by CameronSS | last reply
I have 25,000 feet of military spec marine grade 26 awg high strand count 3 conductor helix braided shielded in plastic sheathing. I have no idea how many ounces of silver are involved but can guess at the copper, which is worth much more un-tinned and brite. some have suggested crushing it to remove the plastic as the 3 conductors are also sheathed in plastic but there may be enough of this for me to tool up to do it all chemically or burning it using the right filtration?? thanks,
Question by Steward in Good Fealty | last reply
I recently had to start learning how to service airconditioners on the fast and that learning got me thinking about my portable coolers.... Some of us like to go camping or on longer fishing trips, so there might be one of those 3-way fridges in use or a better cmpressor model. The one thing they all have in common is that they can only cool down to a difference in ambient temperatures. No matter which way we turn it the cooling produces heat and that needs to get away somehow. The other big thing is the cooling cycling - or the lack of it on a warm day. After some reading and thinking I came up with some ideas that might be applicable to your existing cooler if you are willing to mess around a bit. Let's start with the produced heat, shall we? Down here in Australia most people either have the fridge in their4WD or camper. In a car or small camper trailer there is often the problem of airflow, so the cooler might be doing overtime for no other reason than a lack of airflow. If you check online sites like Amozon and Ebay you quickly find fan systems meant to be installed inside the cooler to get lower temperatures and a quicker cooling of fresh goods. The thing is that the box is quite well insulated and the benefit of the airflow goes only as far as it can reach. And even if the box is quite empty and you would have a benefit of the cold air moving around it won't change the fact that "improved" cooling always comes with more heat in this case. But if we use one of these fan systems to actually improve the airflow on the hot side we not only get better cooling but also a reduce power consumption - something worth considering if you have no backup power generator.... This of course brings us to placement. As I have done the mistake myself you might be tempted to put a 3way cooler onto your seat. Opening it with the back free means the lid always gets stuck on the seat, do it the other way around and you block the airflow. If you do put it on the seat then make sure two things match: 1. The thing is secured properly. 2. The airflow from your aircon is able to reach the hot side of the cooler. Even permanent installations in a camper benefit from a good airflow. Often the fridge or freezer is built into some sort of bench and the airflow behind might be very limited. A simple solution here is to add a vent on top of the bench to allow the hot air to escape. A better one is to use a fan that is powered together with the heating element or compressor and drives the hot air to the outside. How to improve the cold side of the box or fridge? Well, to be honest there is not much that can be done unless you are prepared for some serious work. Depending on compartment size, contents and how full it is a little fan can help to keep the temperatures even but it won't help to get it cooler or reduce the cycling periods for the cooling. The only really working way that I found is to use a "battery" for the storage of the cold. The cooling works by checking the inside temp of the box and if above the set temp the cooling won't stop. This is all well and good while we have a constant supply of power but once we are on batteries it would be great to keep the active time to a minimum. A working solution is to build a container that fits around the cooling element. Smaller types often use an aluminium heatsink, bigger types might come with a compressor and an evaporator. In either case proper sealing is important! Most good models are fully waterproof, meaning even if you would fill them with water they would not leak in other areas than the door. But double check and if in doubt use a bit of silicone to make sure. Ok, but how do we "store" the cold coming from the device? Cold packs ;) These things contain a ready to use mix that holds cold temperatures quite well. Another really good alternative is alcohol or radiator coolant, although the last has limited capabilites in terms of holding capaity for the cold as it is desinged to exchange heat fast rather than to keep it. With a suitable sized and sealed box around the active cooling element we will need longer to actually see any cooling happen (with a warm "battery") but that can be compensated for by good planning or a frozen water bottle. If the cooling element is covered with a box of cooling gel then it has to cool this first before anything happens inside the box. But once it does the pack is already far below the normal temp it would have during normal operation. Remember the inside of the cold pack cools down first before the outside will get cold ;) So once the set temperature is reached the device will shut off. But since the cold pack is far below the set temp it will continue to cool our box until the core is warmer than the set temp. Quick thinkers will now say the benefit is lost as the time required to cool the "battery" down again is much longer than the normal cycle time - and they would be correct. But as we get much colder temps inside the gel box the overall running will still be less compared to normal operation. And since from the second cycle on the gel is only warming up to operating temp of the box it will be much faster than with a warm box. Another benefit might be the ease of cleaning and ice removal. Some peltier driven coolers have big cooling fins or a quite bad design for the heatsink allowing mould to grow where you can't remove it easy. If the box is made from stainless steel and flush with the back wall of the box we won't have that problem anymore. Ok, but how much is good or too much for the size and gel content? You got me there as it is bit tricky. You don't want to loose much usable space for starters and you don't want to wait hours for the gel to cool down if the box was not used. IMHO the size should fit the cooling element with about 20% to spare all around. If stainless steel is not an option than aluminium is the next best choice. Thin sheets can either be be cold formed with a hammer or "brazed" with a good torch and the right rods. Ok, before that route is there anything I should consider or do first? Depends ;) 3-way systems usually use a flame or heating elements to heat an ammoia solution. After years of neglect corrosion can form and reduce the amount of heat transfered into the system and reducing the efficiency this way. It might help to take the heating elements out once a year or so to clean them and the contact areas from any corrosion or dirt build up. With a fixed shedule for this you won't have the problem of never noticing a badly corroded heating element either - and this is the main failure on these systems.... Modifying your camper or making a few mods to your 4WD drawer system is not for the faint of heart and should be done with consideration. The last thing you want to do is rush things to find out it was not necessary. Before cutting holes check if you can't find the room for the fan in a different spot and use ducts to control the airflow - sometimes it is easier to blow air in than to get air out ;) When it comes to creating vents or connections for air to the outside always make sure it is waterproof and insect safe! If you can let the outlet go downwards so water won't run in, for 4WD trailers consider a flap to prevent water from going during a river crossing. Flyscreens will not only prevent insects from coming in but on the inside also prevent dust to go eerywhere - allow to the removal and cleaning! The salts used in these cold packs can be corrosive, so you have to make sure there are no leaks and that there is no steel to come into contact with gel - this includes screw ends hidden in through-holes. If in doubt use a coat of paint but keep it as thin as possible. Even on peltier systems it might be impossible to remove the heatsink without massive surgery on the internals. So before you take it all apart to gain access check if it is far easier to seal around the box opening and possible screw connections using silicone. The cooling battery can be screwed on and sealed with silicone as well as an easy escape route. Although for this to work you need to check if the material of the box allows for a proper bond with the silicone! Some materials just won't allow anything to stick at all, even after sanding them. So do a test first in an area where you would be able to cut the silicone away without causing damage. If you can rip or peel it off the surface you should not try to use a cooling battery screwed to the wall, only use a box that is fully sealed with the cooling element and has a seperate back - one complete unit around the cooling element. I have a 3-way system with a freezer compartment that does the cooling for the fridge too - what can I do? These units either provide good freezing with the fridge temps too low or good fridge cooling with no freezing capabilites - depending on the thermostat used. Our problem is that is next to impossible to add a cooling battery of the normal kind to these systems. The L-shaped freezer box can really only be added with a L-shaped cooling battery from underneath. Only if you don't need any freezing at all you could add a cooling battery to fit into the freezer box shape. In either case the benefit is somehow limited by the way the thermostat is used. If there is no temp control for freezing it should be fine. Warnings... Only peltier driven coolers are free from refrigerants. Every 3-way or compressor system uses refrigerant as evident by more or less piping and heating elements. Never attempt to screw anything into a cooling element containing refrigerant! Even if you think between the channels all will be fine it won't be! The material is just pressed to form the channels and any damage caould mean refrigerant leaking out! Use silicone instead and make sure all surfaces are properly cleaned before applying it, also wait until the silicone is really fully cured before putting any stress on it. As said, these cooling gels can be corrosive, especially if DC voltage is involved. Make sure that everything that is not aluminum or plastic is properly sealed before allowing ongoing contact with cooling gels. Do not attempt any of this if you have to ask yourself what tools you might need or how make a suitable container for the gel. If in doubt check Google on how to work with aluminium or stainless steel if there are not enough Instructables for it. The gel will expand a little bit if it freezes, this no problem in a metal container if you allow for a bit of flex or on the side added strength - whatever suits you better. Another option is to get a few different cold packs (by the active ingredient) and to do a check in a little container. Freeze it and note whe level cold and warm. Little to no difference means nothing to worry in terms of expansion during freezing.
Topic by Downunder35m
I am building a sound reactive RGB light. Using a LM386 and a 16f88's AdC. I got it to work great with just 1 RGB LED on a breadboard, powered from a 7805 I then built it on perfboard, watched the amp's output on my O-Scope, worked fine. https://randomskk.net/projects/lightstrip/schematic.pdfUsed this schematic for LM386Once I hooked up 3 Constant current regulators with 3x 3 watt LEDs(red-green-blue) through 3x MOSFETS, the Amp's output signal becomes blurry/chaotic and the light malfunctions. The regulators negative output must be connected to logic GND, which i know to be where the interference is coming from.How can I reduce the noise coming out of the Amp? Even if I gotta use different type of Amp. I don't know to much about them.
Question by PuffMag1cDrag0n | last reply
My girlfriend has an amazing voice, but we live in a packed apartment complex. Luckily, we live in a corner room, and the master bedroom has a closet which does not face any other apartments. The Closet is: Length: 8 1/3ft Width: 5 ft Height: 8 ft I bought her The "M-Audio Delta 1010 LT". She has "Pro Tools" and a nice condenser Mic (Samson C01) on a shock mount with a pop filter. She also has a midi keyboard Casio CTK 573 and an acoustic guitar (Ibanez EW20ZWENT) W/ midi output. I figure the only thing were missing for decent recording is sound acoustical dampening or the likes. Any suggestions? Note: I am not looking to spend lots of money, as the card was already above my price range :/ I am not not very musically literate, so i really appreciate in advance your patience, knowledge, creativity, and time! -Please Please Please Instructables Community, I will forever be in your debt if you can help me with this! -Kyle
Question by NostalgicStone | last reply
Hey everyone! i'm seeking some advice about a system i've been trying to work out - a bluetooth audio headset from a PA system for vocal monitoring during band rehearsals. currently i'm running microphone -> PA -> bluetooth 4.0 AD2P compatible audio transmitter -> powerbeats bluetooth 4.2 headphones the connection is working fine, the only issue is latency between microphone and headphones (approximately half a second), which makes it very difficult to use as a monitor as i require very minimal latency to hear my voice in synchronisation with the rest of the band. a few questions; does bluetooth simply have an unavoidable lag due to data compression? is it possible for me to hack the bluetooth transmitter in some way to increase the rate of compression/transmission? what would you recommend as a cheap substitute in the event that nothing can be done? thanks very in much in advance, Austin
Topic by totemgoat
Hello all ! I'm new to instructables and Iâve found some cool and helpful information for my projects. I need a bit of help designing a power supply voltage reduction device. One that accepts 9v input and output into two 3v 5mA outputs. I want to replace the batteries in a/b Boss selector with a more reliable source of power.
Topic by testpartner | last reply
I just completely disassembled an old washing machine. I noticed that if I could pop the transmission open and stop it from agitating it should work as a gear reduction drive that I could use for another project I'm working on. Before I get too far into this I figured I'd ask and see if what I want to do is even possible? As I understand it inside the transmission there is a gear with a rod attached kind of like the drive wheel on an old steam locomotive. It seems by either removing that entirely or maybe modifying it I should be able to get it to rotate in a single direction. Anyone with any experience know if this is even plausible?
Question by David Hoskins | last reply
If you live in San Francisco, this sounds like a great contest. http://www.sfclimatechallenge.org/The contest is among teams of five or more households. There are several ways to get involved. You can start your own team with your friends, families or coworkers. You can join an existing team. Or you can just sign up solo as part of your local neighborhood team. The contest begins October 25th. You spend your next PG&E;* billing period doing everything you can to reduce your energy use. The more energy your team saves, the better your chances of winning.It can be as simple as turning off a few lights and lowering the thermostat, to as dramatic as installing solar panels on your roof or creating a human-powered generator. It's all up to you.At the end, we compare the contest period with your bills from the same time last year, and dish out cash and prizes to the teams who've done the best and come up with the most creative solutions. Even if that isn't you, you'll still have saved some money on your power bill and helped fight global warming. So in a sense, everyone wins.Prizes:Greatest absolute reduction in energy use: $5,000Greatest percentage reduction in energy use: $5,000Greatest reduction by a School: $2,500Greatest reduction by a neighborhood organziation: $1,000Greatest reduction by a business or other organziation: $1,000
Topic by ewilhelm | last reply
still thinking of making custom headphones for fun. would love to make the cushioned pads on headphones but don't know what sort of fabric is could use around the foam. I want something as waterproof/resistant as possible to protect from sweat. really wanted to make square foam inserts and cover them with the fabric for noise reduction. thanks
Question by plasticpopcorn4 | last reply
58 billion paper coffee cups are thrown away, unrecycled, each year. The betacup challenge is an effort to reduce this waste. betacup are inviting people to submit ideas but also to comment and rate others’ ideas, and engage in discussions with other betacup community members and contest jurors. Thought I'd post this as there are a lot of smart thinking, clever, innovative people here at instructables. Hopefully one of us (or several?) can come up with something positive. Betacup from the betacup on Vimeo. You should consider: Waste Reduction – how does the Idea reduce the number of non-recycled coffee cups thrown away each year? Resources Required – what resources will it take to implement the Idea? (money, energy, water, materials, time, etc) New or Existing Capabilities – does the Idea use existing technologies or approaches? If not, what must be created or invented to implement the Idea? The Whole experience – Don’t forget the importance of the “whole experience”. Alternatives to paper cups are available today but they are not being widely used. How effective is the Idea likely to be in achieving its goal? A different contest format (hint: we’re encouraging collaboration) The betacup differs from most contest formats, because it is open. We are using jovoto, so when you submit an idea, your ideas are open to the public for comment and ratings. betacup via Treehugger
Topic by Jayefuu | last reply
Hey guys, I want stepdown my charger laptop from 19V to 12V but I read from https://www.instructables.com/answers/19v-to-12v-without-current-drop/ they said IC produce excessive heat if I connect it directly, Then does by doing 3 stages of reduction, can reduce the heat output of the IC? For example I use 7818 > 7815 > 7812 for 3 stages of reduction.
Question by goldenyears1x | last reply
I've seen many camera, they all have mechanical shutter, what is the possibility of having liquid crystal shutter in a camera,like in shutter glasses?
Question by Suraj Grewal | last reply
Here's a neat video of bullfrogs clumsily catching prey in gorgeous slow-mo from the Vancouver Aquarium. They point out that amphibians are potentially facing a mass extinction, due to wetland reduction and chemical contamination. (Check out the crazy gender-bending effects of herbicides!)
Topic by canida | last reply
When I open youtube to watch any video, and I am connected to the WiFi in the house, I get all the quality options available to me: 144p, 240p, 360p, 480p, 720p, 1080p, and occasionally original (usually reserved for 4K resolutions?) However, when I use my phone's 3G/4G and wirelessly tether that to linux, I do not get all 6-7 quality choices. 144p, 480p, and 1080p are missing. speedtest.net shows tethering 4G to my computer shows a 3-8 Mbps down with ~70ms latency. the WiFi in the house is CenturyLink DSL, and can get as fast as 1.5Mbps with latency ~50ms at best, it can sometimes get very slow and I am forced to switch to tethering my phone's 3G/4G. Also, it is worth noting that the 360p quality appears more compressed, The amount of "boxiness" (MPEG reduction) is annoyingly high. (poor quality) While the phone is in 3G, I can't even watch 720p quality, the lowest quality that allows one to make out a faces in the video. It does not appear to be Chrome, the browser I'm using or flash video, as it is also true with the HTML5 player.
Question by -max- | last reply
Dear All Please help me to know : Between 2 type model gearbox reduction ratio by worm gear and other by spur gear ( please see photo ). If gear ratio and motor power is same equal what kind of type gearbox for more power torque .Many thank you in advance for your time.
Question by lam | last reply
Are you str or agility sac? If you're using gob, I'd guess str. Treeset or Crackler set are both good sets for sacrier. Treechnid set cause of 8AP which will give you more room to sac/dancing sword/punishment/leek pies, increasing your buffs. Tree set total bonuses are 63~150 Strength 9~12 Damage 20% Fire Weakness 20% Air Weakness 20% Resist earth 21~24% Resist neutral 2 AP ~1 MP 72~135 Life 1 Range 1 Summons The -1MP doesn't matter so much because of attraction. You can get this at level 45. Crackler set is good cause of the reduction, means you'll take no damage from your buffs. It also give vitality instead of life, which is always a bonus for a sac. Crackler set total bonuses are 55~130 Strength 6~60 Vitality 2~25 Wisdom 1~20 Agility 1~10% Damage 1~5 Critical Hit 1%~5% Resist air 2%~10% Resist earth 1%~5% Resist fire 15% Resist neutral 8~20 Magical reduction 9~25 Physical reduction 1~100 Initiative 1~10 Prospecting 1~300 Pods If you have no enough dofus kamas to do these, please visit http://www.dufus.us
Topic by antmilan | last reply
I have an anr (active noise reduction) aviation headset that I want to use with my pc. I've searched everywhere but nothing converts it directly from a six pin LEMO (power panel, redel) to anything my computer will take. I'm assuming because the anr requires a power source. is there anyway I could convert it?
Question by bravoechonovember1 | last reply
These are normal headphones (not those with active noise reduction). I think they are used in many Sony walkmen. The cable is just too tiny -- I want to replace it with a stronger one.
Question by J. Raff | last reply
Hi, I am looking to muck up a quick prototype of a weight pad with BLE, Zigbee or RFID to send a message to a smart device when 80% reduction in weight has been achieved. Can someone point me in the proper direction? I like it to be fairly small. Thanks in advance! JC
Topic by JCDA | last reply
I know this is a basic question, but it has bugged me, and is in two parts. The first: Are resistors like reduction valves for electricity? i.e. Do they simply absorb and dissipate excess electricity, or do they restrict its flow, as in making a large capacitor discharge its energy through a resistor to prolong output from the capacitor? Also, do capacitors store electricity until it is full, then release it, or is that only when they fail? Thanks!
Question by mad magoo | last reply
I am starting an electric go-cart(ish) project thing, and was wondering where I might find the best site for moderately cheap and decent electric motors? (Looking for a motor in the 250-500 watt range) I will be making my own drive train,gear reduction etc, all I need is the bare motor. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Question by NoNameCola | last reply
I want to power my GameBoy Color using the USB port. It needs 3V ( 2 AA batteries). I found a voltage regulator, that puts out 3V, but it does not seem to be available in Germany. But there are loads of 3.3V regulators. So I wonder, how I could use one of those. Is it possible to simply put a resistor in row (if yes, what value would be suitable?) or is it a bit more complicated?
Topic by SpecieS~ | last reply
Hi, My power supply is ac 110v to dc14V 700ma and I want to connect in parallel 2 strips of 4 led (350ma - 3.2v each) Total voltage per strip 12.8v with 350ma each. I would like to power these leds at 2.5v each (total 10v) and at around 250ma each. I installed a buck converter at the output of the power supply to reduce voltage at 10v. Will the amps also drop as voltage is reduced or will it stay at 350ma on each strip? If it does not drop, how could I reduce amps to about 250-275ma? Thanks
Topic by Lion_Heart | last reply
Got bored and I thought this sounded pretty cool. What do you think? Superficial agony, mutilating shockwave, Flamboyant Armageddon will never behave, scintillating ball of fire, shimmering sea disappears without desire, pseudoscientific forumula, Timewave-zero is true.... Day after day, night after night, with much research it proves no one is alright... Pseudoscientific forumula, timewave-zero is true, This ball of fire has come out of the blue Awoken from self-destruction Realistic power reduction Nevertheless memories fade Anxious tempting till' the next day Breathless exhaustion, cannot breath Trapped in a jail cell, try to leave Never surrender, throughout this fight, But to think again, I just think I might. Today, I will learn against my will, This battle will cause a void to fill
Topic by Flumpkins
Topic by kelseymh | last reply
Hey hey, I have a wood burning system that I LOVE, but at its lowest setting it burns just a touch too hot. It has a variable temperature dial, but it doesn't go quite low enough for me. Is there a way for me to reduce the power coming into it from the wall? As an example of the kind of reduction I'm looking for. If I run my small space heater off the same outlet, the wood burner burns slightly cooler at a temperature that works for me. Any help would be extremely helpful! Thank you in Advance! Mike
Question by MichaelW552 | last reply
I have a solar powered gate, using a liftmaster system. The main control box cannot have a power input above 12 dc at 30 watts. I need to be able to control the power input to about 25 watts. Due to the environment in which the system was installed, I had to use solar panels and batteries that have a higher output than 30 watts. How can I keep the volts to about 12 volt and keep the watts under 30? I tried to google adjustable amp regulators, and the answers are not clear. How can I find an adjustable amp regulator for my specific needs?
Question by charliemmann1975 | last reply
I am currently trying to complete a weed eater bike build, but have run into some trouble. a jackshaft is required, but i do not have enough money to purchase a kit or use a welder. built one out of some bolts, bearings, and the sprockets needed for reduction, but the engine shakes the chain off the primary drive sprocket or the primary driven sprocket when it is operating. i also need to figure out a way to mount the secondary driven sprocket to the wheel, would JB weld or something similar work? thanks in advance for any help and/or ideas
Topic by Badetise | last reply
Hi there! What common material is best for off-the shelf rigid rods/bars for things like 3D printers and CNC machines? I'm actually thinking about making a 3d pantograph for expansion/reduction of originals sculpted in epoxy, (perhaps to be added/linked with a print/machining rig later. I see a lot of what seems to be steel tube or rod in people's projects, but steel is bouncy. Is there a particular cast or extruded alloy of steel or aluminum? Cast iron? Bronze or brass? I don't have a machine shop or a lot of money, so I have to use stock material or salvage, and I'm not so sanguine about salvage for this most critical element of the machine. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Topic by eruger | last reply
Hi, There video above shows a simple coilgun like device that shoot coins. In my understanding, it looks like a simple induction Coilgun design, since it repel coin away from the coil instead shoot the coin through the middle. However I have a hard time replicate the result. I use the same camera with the same capacitor (350V), and also use penny for the non magnetic projectile. Its the coil part I'm not sure about. In the video, it looks like a relevantly messy and small coil. Can anyone suggest me on the coil design for the same result? Most resources I found are either on reduction design or base on coilgun design instead this simple shooting mechanism. Thanks
Question by ljfa321 | last reply
My school recently bought a few pairs of "beer goggles" apparently these are goggles that when are put on simulate being drunk! How on earth does this work, "DRUNK BUSTERS Impairment GogglesÃ¢ÂÂ¢ simulate effects of impairment, including reduced alertness, slowed reaction time, confusion, visual distortion, alteration of depth and distance perception, reduction of peripheral vision, poor judgement and decision making, double vision, and lack of muscular coordination. For some people, impairment might result after as little as one drink." I will be going into the gym with my health class to attempt to play basketball tomorrow or monday. But until then I am curious as to how these work. http://www.drunkbusters.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=19
Topic by astrozombies138 | last reply
So I bought some Mirrowave turn table motors to use as an Epoxy Rod dryer I knew I didnt want the 220's and thought I had bought 110 AC but they are AC 30V 3W I have 4 of them and need to know a cheap way to wire em up. Was being cheap and didnt want to pay $10 a motor and got all 4 for $10 but now I see I am going to need a voltage reduction and or transformer. Was thinking one of my old printer or laptop cubes would work.. but those are all AC/DC converters :-( I am pretty good with hands.. but Electrical circuits not my strong suit.
Question by ToddG39 | last reply
I am making a table top and would like to put LEDs in it. I want to be able to connect them to a variable resistor so it acts like a dimmer switch. I want to be able to run this off of wall power. I do not know how to drop the power, voltage, and amps coming from the wall to the ratings of a variable resistor? I know P=VI and V=IR, but I can't find a resistor with a high enough power rating to decrease wall power. what I would need help with is find a componet or something that greatly decreases the Power; thus decreasing voltage and amprage; to a level that I can run through a variable resistor and to the LEDs. Yes I know LEDs are supposed to run off of DC, but they do work with AC; they just dont get as bright, which is fine by me.
Question by jkindred | last reply
Hallo Everybody, Hopefully I am posting this at the right place!? I dont have alot of experience wih arduino, so thats why I am asking here and I hope that someone can help!? The Scenario : My Parents in Law have a very old and very load campervan. They bought themselves each headphones/Headsets with active voice reduction wich helps alot with the noise in the Van but they cant communicate with each other.... The headphones came with a cable sothat you can connect it to a mobile phone with speech function.(Like a Headset for Skype..) Now my quiestion : Is it possible to connect the 2 Headphones/Headsets to something that is mounted stationary (<12V) in the campervan sothat they can also use the speech function on the cable/Headset to communicate? Would it be able to do with arduino? How? I would appreciate any information! Thank You Ps. Hope my english isint too bad....
Topic by Rudster85 | last reply
I'm brewing up a batch of cider for the holidays. Home brewing is something I used to be into and haven't done in a while, but I thought it would be fun to get back into. Way back, 8 years ago, when we moved I stored my empties in the attic. Dragging them out today I was surprised to find one of the bottles was capped. So being curious I cracked the top and low and behold it was still carbonated, after 8 years in an attic which can reach 140 degrees in the summer. As you can see from the rather blurry picture(sorry), the color is very dark, but with a nice creamy head, it was very clear, not surprising;y, the arome was strongly caramel. On the palate it was smooth and creamy like a schwarzbier. The flavor was caramel and balsamic without the vinegar (like a balsamic reduction). Discretion being the better part of valor, I spat it out and washed my mouth with Listerine. Still it was an interesting experience. Just wanted to share.
Topic by Tool Using Animal | last reply
Planes use a massive amount of fuel to move passengers and cargo around the world. A new design from an MIT team could cut this fuel usage by 70%. This is great news and would make flights cheaper and pump out a lot less carbon. The bad news is that air traffic is expected to double in the next 30 years and the earliest these designs would be in the air is 2035. MIT designed their D-series as a 180 passenger aircraft meant to replace the domestic 737 market. Conventional airplanes utilize a single fuselage design, while the D-series uses two partial tubular shapes placed beside each other — which accounts for the bubble nickname. The plane utilizes a host of technological advances to decrease its fuel consumption. It has thinner longer wings and a smaller tail and engine placement at the rear of the plane instead of on the wings. All of these features account for part of the reduction in fuel usage. MIT Team Unveils Airplane that Uses 70 Percent Less Fuel
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
Hello i just went to the dump shop and picked up a 4kg bag of bicarb soda as ph buffer for free, and when i got home, i noticed it smelt of ammonia, so i though it might have some ammonium carbonate, so i figured i could get rid of it by adding some water to the ph buffer and then boiling it. however, i have noticed that it turned my hands blue, and although the blue washed off, i am now hazardous as to what else may be in thr ph buffer, although it states sodium bicarbonate is the active ingredient. i plan on dividing it, selling 2kg on my site in 250g batches for $2 each, and the other i plan to use as a sodium source for my sodium reduction cell. i need to know though, what the other chemicals in the pool buffer are so i can state the purity of the ph buffer. also will anything lebeled as "soda ash" be pure sodium carbonate?
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
Vehicles have been designed to minimize the aerodynamic drag with notable success. Production candidate vehicles (such as Aptera, Twike, and Honda Insight) achieving drag coefficients of 0.25 down to 0.11. Solar Challenge vehicles have reached 0.07. Nose cone and fastback upper and sealed or faired lower body designs can achieve significant reductions in drag, and are worth attention. I am attempting to optimize a design for pickup trucks and cross-over utility (CUV) vehicles that are based on the same basic chassis design. Can anyone contribute designs, examples, or sources of information on optimized pickup design? BTW, I am simultaneously searching for a safe design that has the vehicle center of gravity at or below the axle height, as it should be to prevent roll-over accidents. Risk of injury and death are significantly higher in pickup trucks and CUVs than cars, and now pickups and CUVs account for more than 50% of new vehicle sales. This tragic fact needs to be reversed with safer design.
Question by rkh986 | last reply
I am new to stepper motors and didn't have one. Just need to make sure that I will buy the correct stepper. My project is about DSLR camera pan + tilt and for slider, so it will be 3 steppers. Maybe can carry 1.5kg - 2kgI already have the following:Battery: Laptop powerbank USB1:5V/2.1A USB2: QC2.0 port 5V/2A 9V/2A 12V/ 2ADriver: Adafruit Motor Shield V2 for ArduinoArduino: DFRduino UNO R3And some 1:40 reduction gears from past projectAbout the stepper I'm planning to order in Bangood.com and here is my choices: 12-24v, 1.8 step, 0.5 amps, 20 resistance, 1000g.cm hold, 80g.cm detent 12-24v, 1.8 step, 0.28 amps, 26 resistance, 700g.cm hold, 60g.cm detent 12v , 1.8 step, 0.4 amps, 30 resistance, 28n.cm hold, 1.6n.cm detent 12v, 1.8 step, 0.4 amps, 30 resistance, 260mN.m hold, 12mN.m detentPlease let me know what should be best for my project. I'm not expert in steppers. If you have any suggestions that would be great.Thank you!
Topic by coreuploader | last reply
Well I'm getting tired again of my mac being extremely sluggish most of the time (the hd is pretty fragmented, too lazy to get my boot disk takes a few hours to defrag). A lot of the "sluggishness" is due in part to the rather extremely hot 1.2ghz ppc processor. I've tried putting xbox heatsinks on it (like seen in my instructable, search that shit) and I even made an addition of putting a fan ontop, but at the most I might have seen a reduction of 5C, but under load the fan made no difference. I know the internal fan can cool it down from like 78C (it gets hotter playing halo) to a nice 50C in a hurry at full speed. I haven't touched it though (wanting to hardwire it badly) because it has like 9 different wires for whatever reason (ground, positive and your sensor readout is all you should need right??). Anyone have at least some half assed idea of what I could throw together in a jumble? And yes, I've thought of using a peice of plexi-glass and cutting holes in it for computer fans and making a souped up cooling pad, but I don't have the fans.
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
I am really interested in science research and I want to come up with a research project, but I'm having a hard time putting something together. I want to include aspects like... - PCR (polymerase chain reaction) - RFLP (restriction fragment length polymorphism) - ICC (immunocytochemistry) - e-gel/ gel electrophoresis I know I will be working with mice brains whose vagus nerves have been surgically cut or whose leptin intake has been significantly increased. (By the way, the leptin and vagus nerve are totally different experiments) In this case the vagus nerve serves as a connection from the brain to the stomach. Therefore if it has been cut, mice would show a reduction in food anticipation. The leptin, I believe is a hormone that deals with energy regulation (food intake). Mice with leptin intake grow obese because lack of leptin usually tells the body to stop eating so when the mice with too much leptin are introduced to food, they cannot stop eating. In either case, mice brains would be sacrificed for experimentation. (All experiments are done in a research facility) I'm not sure how to incorporate these procedural methods to the mice brains. My objective is to somehow determine the mechanisms within the nervous system, which can hopefully aid in developing methods to ameliorate neurological problems. I am open to any other methods or protocols.
Topic by c4thy | last reply
I am designing a system to motorize my bike, but I really don't have enough money for it. I have been thinking I would like to use this engine for quite a while, because it's cheap, light, and OHC. There is a centrifugal clutch for it, but it costs $85, so I've been trying to design a series hybrid system instead. Considering that these motors cost only $6, it seems perfectly feasible to make something cheaper this way, but there are ways I can think of to possibly make it even cheaper. Here comes the technical part: my original design has two of the motors hooked up to the engine at double speed as generators, making 12v. Then there would be two more of these motors traction-driving the rear wheel. The problem with this is that the gear reduction is expensive. My new design has the engine directly driving only one generator, making only 6v so that I would have to have as many as 8 motors driving the wheel (opportunity for AWD?) to pull enough current to get full power out of the engine. Here's the problem: I don't know if the generator will be able to handle that current draw. Considering it would only have to do it for a couple seconds, do you think that one of these motors (working as a generator) could handle 400 amps surge? Other information: this will not see much low-speed operation. Geared to top out at about 25mph, it will probably spend most of it's time going 10-20.
Topic by yourcat | last reply
I'm looking to build a portable gaming and media station but I'm stuck on a couple things and am hoping people here might have some suggestions and/or links. Basically, I bought a large aluminum camera case, big enough to hold a 22" led tv in the lid. I am going to mount the tv in the lid, thinking of just drilling the holes and mounting the tv directly to the lid. Any critiques or problems with that would be nice.Second, I'm going to mount a ps3, a portable media player (think Von Haus) which uses flash drives or portable hard drive via US, and a retropie system. Now where I'm running into trouble is two-fold. One is how to mount the items into the case. Foam would normally work well, but I'm worried about heat reduction, less so for the media player and more for the ps3 and retropie. I'm also worried about having it hardmounted onto the case via glue gun because of any shocks it might get while in transport. I also want to dremel out in the front and the back, and put in ports to be able to connect to an outside source as needed. Basically, I need a number of connectors which mount inside with the port leading out. USB 2/3, HDMI, RCA cable connector (RWY). I can find extension cables, but what I'm more looking for is, say for USB, a male lead on one end to connect to the ps3, and a female lead on the other end which sits inside case but is dremel'ed out to be able to connect a USB from the outside, basically a plate which I can just screw in. Something similar to what you'd find inside a console or similar. Anything which anyone can help with on any of these would be greatly appreciated.
Topic by GeorgeGrace | last reply