Want to build an inside bar with a box for dispay items then fill box with a clear resin about 1 to 2" deep. How do I use the resin and what kind do I use?
I don't know very much about resin's & need help on what to look for & in detail how to prepare it. What I want to do is fill a small vile with a clear resin & a black ball in the middle. I tried filling one of these bottles with a two part resin & it nearly shattered from the heat. I tried using a clear hot glue, ether by gun or just melting it in the glass vile, ether way the glue fogged up. I need something like those awards you see on TV, solid acrylic with a face or globe, whatever the object may be, in the middle of the transparent award.
Topic by elkaddalek | last reply
Has anyone ever done a DIY resin floor? Any advice? A friend of mine is in the early stages of a plan to cover her stairs in resin, with embedded small pieces of tile left over from the kitchen. We're planning to do a lot of small scale testing before we actually do anything permanent, and were just going to start with harware store marine resin. At the moment, the stairs are the bare chipboard left when the gross carpet was removed. It also curves around almost 180°, so there are only a few rectangular stairs. Any tips on the type of resin to use, best way to build a stair sized mould, things that the resin won't stick to, curing time, or any other random advice would be appreciated.
Topic by Mar HK | last reply
Hi, i'm planning on buying a SLA printer, but i want to be sure that i can get a good amount of resin at a fair price, i found some places but since i'm from Bolivia-Latin America, the shipping and buying from Us Europe or Asia it becomes quite expensive, sometimes like +65% to 80% of the product itself. If someone knows a DIY resin, or some good places that doesn't cost as much per L or Galon plz let me know and share it with everyone else. Anyway, thx a lot for reading and take your time, i hope i can get an answer.
Topic by pablopcb
I'm trying to cast some resin claws for a halloween/convention costume I'm trying to make ( it isn't a Wolverine one .. more a VERY twisted, evil, and blood thirsty Mad Hatter character ) and running into a bit of trouble. I'm following the 5 drops of hardener per 1 oz of resin that is stated on the resin can's instructions. It also says it's supposed to set hard enough to support objects at 40 minutes. I mixed a 2oz batch of resin ( 10 drops of hardener ) and poured it into a rubber latex lined plaster mold that I had sprayed with mold release. I put a bolt down partly into the resin so I can later attach a wire to it and left it alone for about an hour to an hour and a half. I came back to check on it and the bolt was still able to be moved/removed with NO resistance. I figured the mix was bad and threw it out, but noticed it was the consistancy of slime. Did I mess it up and not wait long enough, or did I not add enough hardener or what ? Any suggestions would be great!
Question by Myrr | last reply
Hello, I want to fill my beer bottle cap table in with clear resin and I am wondering how much resin i will need. I have done the math myself but I think I may be wrong. The table is 85"x36"x.25" (has trim up to the cap height) If i did the math correctly I will need 2 gallons of resin. I just want to confirm before I buy $120 worth of resin. The beer bottle caps are roughly 1"x1"x.25" and there are about 2300 of them. so what i did for math was 85x36 = 3060 (x .25) = 765. 765 / 12 = 63.75 square feet 1 gal of resin covers 32 square feet 2 gals needed correct? but then i tried to plug in how much space the caps take up and if i can get away with just 1 gal. so 2300x.25 = 575 square inches 575/12 =47.91 square feet 63.75-47.91 = 15.84 square feet which means 1 gal of resin would be plenty..... am i doing this math correct? thanks for the help!
Topic by IsaacB1 | last reply
I'm trying to make a memory stick out of a cast of a wedge of lime. I will fill the cast with clear resin and place the memory stick in, and wait for it to harden. When the lime wedge is hard, with the memory stick inside,i plan to cut off the end of the wedge for a lid, so that the male part prodtrudes out when the lid is taken off. Does anyone know how i could cover the end bit of the memory stick so the resin doen't affect it? Also, looking at the lego block instructions, I plan to remove the plastic cover of my memory stick. Will the bare electrics be affected by the resin? If this makes any sense i'd be glad of any ideas! Thank you!
Topic by Nicolaclare7 | last reply
Hello, I purchased a Polyurethane Resin mix (Part A/Part B) to create a guitar. I’m wondering though what material I can use to create the Mold? I normally work with Wood, so this is all new and exciting, but oh so confusing. Can I create a mold out of wood and coat it with a silicone spray? Do I need to use some other non-porous material? Any insight would be excellent. Thanks, Rich
Topic by Coda24 | last reply
I'm trying to find a place where i can buy Acrylic or Polycarbonate Resin to Cast. I'm trying to desgin and build ny own tables, desk, shelfs, and other small projects. 1) Where can i buy the Resin note: i did my research, Tap Plastics and other companys only ofer epoxy or polyester resins for casting 2) i decided acrylic and polycarbonate over other plastics. i would like your opinons 3) What are different types of acrylic and what do i need to watch out for, Im taking a Materials Manufacturing and Processes Class ant my college. Im learning about the chemistry of plastics and find it interesting Im trying to cast on a home level but trying to expand into a small business so comerical and home production tips would be nice But first thing first. I need "Real" Acrylic or Polycarbonate Resin. Great Quality, it needs to be strong Casting Acrylic/Polyester Resin
Question by jschirm24 | last reply
I met someone from Germany who had a clear, 2 part floor filling compound, that after mixing, she could pour into a mold and have it turn out like casting resin, Does any body know of the stuff she is talking about?
Question by KyleofAsgard | last reply
Where to buy & how to cast clear water based resin that fast to set & strong?
Question by cassietess12 | last reply
I made these 4 pendants with pictures inside a bezel filled with resin on top, and though two pendants are fine, the other two must not have been totally dry and the wrapping paper came off a little on the resin and looks very bad. It was a present so I want to try to get rid of the paper somehow, I thought maybe by polishing? I have no idea how to polish it and I'm just afraid of using a polish that is not fine enough and leaving a misty/cloudy appearance, it is suppose to be very glossy. Would really appreciate any help thanks! :/
Question by lsadwdwadw | last reply
Hello, Does anyone know of a clear casting resin that when cured is also machinable? I have an idea for a project that involves encasing objects in resin and then using power tools, milling machines, lathes, etc. to partially expose the object by cutting though it and the casting. Any thoughts on what resin to use and where it can be purchased? Thanks!
Topic by WaffleM | last reply
I'd like to try making my own bathroom sink, and I'm wondering what sort of material(s) would resist cracking / chipping / discoloration, and preferably not be poisonous. My first thought was some sort of cast resin. Googling "cast resin sinks" will turn up a ton of cool looking products. Bonus is being able to light it up from the inside. I'm not sure what sort of resin is used for those products, though. I also considered the "inverse": sculpting a shape out of wood etc., then layering it with something like Aquaresin with fiberglass reinforcement, and polishing. Might not be a tough enough surface, but perhaps could be sealed with an epoxy / urethane / what have you. I'm not sure that going fired clay will give me the modern / futuristic look I'm going for... Unless there's a way to have someone apply a glossy ceramic coating to a piece that you bring in. Concrete was considered and discarded - mostly for aesthetic reasons, but also weight. Really, resin seems the easiest route - but still looking for input from any materials experts out there.
Topic by meeotch | last reply
So I'm building my first prop and I have a lot of duct tape used... and I mean A LOT, so I was planning on putting a layer of resin on it. But my question is would the resin work with the duct tape or would I have to put another layer of something before I can put the resin.
Question by thatguy2137 | last reply
Can't get these glowing wood and resin chairs that Bright Woods showed off in Milan recently out of my head. I know that some glowing furniture wouldn't quite work in my house, but I really would love to make something like it. So instead I'm putting it out there to all of you. Please do something with this idea and post it here. Bright Woods’ Tables and Chairs Captivate with an Engaging Glow
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
Hi, I am looking to do an artwork where the final product is a clear plastic resin or epoxy sculpture with various items such as plastic forks and straws inside it. I got this idea from resin flooring which has crushed up beer bottles and screws in it, and now I need some advice. Currently I am thinking that I will make the sculpture from polystyrene and make a mould out of plaster of Paris by pouring the plaster over it in a tub of some sort. Is polystyrene a suitable material to base the mould off and can resin or epoxy be cast in plaster of Paris? Also, how might I go about making 2 parts to the mould which can join together and which I can pour resin in through a hole? Regards.
Mixing Resin InstructableLet me know if that link works for you -- I pushed this earlier this morning. I expected it not to be be populated on the list immediatly, but it's now appearing in my published instructables (instead of just hanging in limbo).In any case, that's a lead in to the next mold/tool making instructable :)
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
I recently bought some resin that I was going to test a few prop pieces out with, but, being the space cadet I am, did not pay attention to the volume the resin produces, and I'm now short resin. I can, of course, buy more resin, but I had the idea of kind of cheating and just coating the inside of a coke bottle (the glass ones) with the colored resin and filling it with water to match. Also, there is more to this. I know I can color water and fill the bottle with that to make a colored bottle. I also know I could color the resin and fill the bottle with that. However, I have an additive that I want to use that is rather pricey, so I would only like to coat the inside of the bottle as to give the illusion it is filled with liquid instead of actually filling it up with liquid. thanks in advance!
Question by DoctorWoo | last reply
Hi I am interested in using silicon molds for jewelry and other "craft" projects. From reading your site, I learned that this could be done w/o worrying about the resin sticking to the mold if you use a non polyester clear casting resin. Since I am new to this whole arena, I wanted to know where I could purchase such a product. Thank you. MGW
Topic by mgw | last reply
I have a 1958 Pfaff 332 sewing machine with a broken knob made of bakelite. Replacement knobs are not available. It occurred to me that it might be possible to cast a replacement with a different resin. I have no experience with casting and don't know what kind of resin would be best.. I saw the antique radio knob replacement ible, and liked the idea of using a flexible mold for detail. This knob engages a major cam mechanism and should be fairly strong. The old knob 'handle' was broken off when I got the machine. The images of complete knobs are from the web. The complete knob is about 1 inch by two inches. What product available in the USA do you recommend?
Question by mole1 | last reply
Please help me about resin epoxy, I'm going to build stuff with resin so please share any detail of resin.
Question by RajenderK4 | last reply
So I had an idea to recycle on old speaker into something a bit more aesthetically pleasing. Firstly I realise this will not improve it in any way and over heating may be a serious problem but I never use the speakers and want to make this mainly as a novelty item rather than best functionality. What I had in mind was taking the speaker amp apart and resoldering all the components with wire rather than using the pcb, this would then be set in a clear resin ball with volume control, jack, power and cone sticking out. Firstly what would be the best way to prevent all the exposed solder contacting, Hot glue? Next what is the best resin to use, for clear resin I only know of polyester, is this best? If so are there any kinds of mould material that cant be used with this type of resin? Lastly could anyone suggest a way to ensure that all components are completely covered (i dont want any bits sticking just above the surface as it would ruin the look of it.) Thanks for any thoughts!
Topic by inarranes | last reply
I'm making resin icicles, but I feel it may be more realistic to dip the completed smooth shapes into resin to bulk them out and give them some water-like imperfections on the shape. Will this work or will uncured resin affect the cured resin?
Question by JinxKittie Cosplay | last reply
In some of make your own halo suit of armor instructibles they briefly go over creating the armor from cardboard and an aqua resin although the description is not detailed enough to grasp. I am aiming to make sculptures out of this cardboard fortified with resin, does any one know how i would go about doing this?
Question by puregoldner | last reply
I am wanting to make my own wedding rings for a more unique & special ring. I do not have the proper equipment to make the ones from wood shavings but I have experimented with resin rings before & I was wondering if I could apply that method with polyurethane resin and sawdust to get a durable ring? I have the mold for my ring but don't want to go through the hassle of wasting money buying things that will not work. If you have ever tried this please let me know how it turned out. I want it to look like a real wooden ring and not cheap.
Question by RebeccaA55 | last reply
While researching patch kits for pebble and resin coating for concrete stairs, one supplier claimed that ONLY their resin would not eat concrete. Is it true that some resins will eat the concrete? Will fiberglass resin work for this? The pebbles are about 1/8"
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
Hi people! I have spilled resin (for crafting) over a pair of jeans and now it makes a hard spot where the resin has cured. I think I've ruined the trousers (obviously...) but I've seen someone on another thread saying that to remove epoxy you just have to heat it. But does it work on cured epoxy resin? That has been in the washing machine more than once? Thanks for your answers :)
Question by Lauriosaurus | last reply
I'm looking to craft some tiny 2mm buttons for a smartwatch face plate. I've got the design down, but I can't get the screen to register the presses. After some digging I learned enough about touch screens to know why. The buttons are going to be cast in a clear orange resin designed to pick up light from the screen below them. Does anyone know of a clear additive or resin material that can sufficiently conduct electricity over a distance of no more that 5mm? If you have any scraps of clear white or clear orange resin. Try using it as a stylus on a smart phone or tablet. If the screen registers the press, let me know please! Also, first time posting here, so bare with me if I have overlooked any sort of etiquette.
Topic by rgorman4 | last reply
Ok, im working on a new project - hopefull i intend to contract a papercraft model, but then use the papercraft model to cast a resin version. Firstly, i need to know what the best glue is to use on the papercraft section and secondly, ive never used resin, ever. so any help advice on how to use resin, and also where to get it from would be great! ps i am uk based. but will order from else where if its cheap enough.
Topic by gmjhowe | last reply
Resin epoxy jewelry question: I messed up the proportions and need to redo. How to clean up the soft epoxy?
The colored resin-epoxy mix was poured into a bezeled siver shape. It is my first attempt with resin.
Question by simha | last reply
I posted a web album that goes through some of the process designing a plush animal and adding resin parts to it. It isn't super though rough, but might be helpful to some. Feel free to ask questions!Mr. Blue's Web Album
Topic by goosezilla
I've tried other diy methods such as silicone caulk and Plaster to make molds. while the plaster was the closest to working it was very difficult to remove the resin from the mold.
Question by tvane1225 | last reply
I want to set a magnet inside a plastic bottle top. Does anyone know of a resin I could use to do this?
I have experimented with PVA glue, but the results are not quite what I was aiming for... It doesn't have to be clear, but I would like it to set quite quickly.
Question by kitobor | last reply
My mum's in the process of making a lot of clear cast jewellery and is having trouble sanding imperfections down and then getting them back up to a good shine, as they're transparent it does need to be a good clear finish...
Question by killerjackalope | last reply
I just build a new bar for an American Legion Post. The bar top now is 3/8" red oak flooring with 3 coat of polyurethane.It also has a rail around it 3/4" high. All the veterans here, men and women, want to donate their metals, ribbons and Patches; and embed them in a resin coating. This coat needs to be close to 1/2 " thick. This will be REALLY COOL. Now, I need to know or talk to someone who has worked with resin for advice. Like, can this be done in one pour or 2 or 3 pours? I am prepping everything floatable (ribbons, wood plaques, patches), I am sealing these items with poly to prevent air problems and will be gluing them down. We will only get ONE shot at this; so I would like some advice or help from someone who has worked with this medium. A representative on site would be cool! Thanks. I can be reached by e-mail or cell: 419-699-5546.?
Question by conrailcon | last reply
The finsihed product has to be in 2 parts because it has to open and close so I can take the air fresheners in and out. I'm using moldmax to create the mold. My challenge is that once the 2 parts are completed i dont have a way to connect them together. Any suggestions?
Question by JerryG74 | last reply
Does anyone know of something that is cheapish and suitable for 3D printing by being extruded from a thin tube, and cures immediately on contact with a dried bit of itself, or exposure to another chemical or something? It must be practical to put though a tube at low pressure, and again, cure almost instantly once it comes out of the tube. Traditional 3D extruders will NOT work, as the device needs to be able to distribute to hundreds of tiny tubes at once (I cant cut a plastic filament into 300 pieces lengthwise, if you can, good job!), plus that I would have only about 1/4"-1/8" x 1/4"-1/8" x 6" to fit the device into.
Question by jduffy54 | last reply
Hi! I recently got a new laptop and I covered the top cover with stickers and it looks pretty good if I do say so myself. I didn't want the stickers to peel up or anything so I went on over to the hardware store and bought some Krylon Crystal Clear spray, which is an acrylic lacquer based spray. I sprayed a whole 32 coats on that sucker and it was still paper thin. It's as if I simply made the surface shiny, and the stickers could still easily peel up. So I did a lot of research and I found a lot of things but I figured a 2 part pour on epoxy resin was the best choice. It's thick, self leveling, self doming, and it cures instead of air drying. My goals from the beginning were to eliminate surface texture altogether. I want the end product to be like those table top bars with stuff encased inside within a clear glass-like coating. I have found a lot of stuff, but I have yet to find anyone that has done what I am trying to do, and since it's my new laptop, I have concerns. How durable will the epoxy be? I want to make sure that it will be able to withstand the life of a college student, although I'm a quite careful one at that. Will the epoxy have any trouble bonding and staying bonded to the Krylon spray? It's an acrylic lacquer based coating according to the company. I don't want the shell of epoxy separating from the top of the laptop. I'm worried about bumping the edges and having the epoxy chip off or just separate altogether. That last question is the main and most important one, really. The last thing I want happening is for the epoxy to dry and then separate from the laptop or crack or chip or something. The epoxy I've settled on for now is Envirotex Lite, I'm not sure how much epoxy differs between manufacturers. I've emailed several companies asking lots of questions and I've gotten a lot answered, but these ones have yet to be solved. Thank you so much for reading this and any input or advice would be greatly appreciated!
Question by jcbeaver7 | last reply
I am curious which would be best for casting my 9 coil 3 phase stator ,Cyanate ester resin ,or Polyester resin?I also curious if it would be best to cast all coils together as a whole or would individual castings work better for heat dissipation? The individual picture just for example. Thanks for taking time to help :)
Question by 1RaceFTW | last reply