Keychain Ring Weaving???

I have seen many chainmaille instructables, but all of them use thick rings with complicated sizes, thickness and blah blah blah... Does anyone know a weave/chain pattern (similar to chainmaille) that can be made using thin-er rings (i have small thin rings that are like Keychain Rings) ~~{ill post pictures of the rings i have for you to see, but i cant right now}~~ I HOPE YOU ALL CAN HELP ME?!?!?!

Question by riyad2212 8 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago

Keychain Ring Weaving???

I have seen many chainmaille instructables, but all of them use thick rings with complicated sizes, thickness and blah blah blah... Does anyone know a weave/chain pattern (similar to chainmaille) that can be made using thin-er rings (i have small thin rings that are like Keychain Rings) ~~{ill post pictures of the rings i have for you to see, but i cant right now}~~ I HOPE YOU ALL CAN HELP ME?!?!?!

Question by riyad2212 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

Prop-Gun idea

I don't have that much confidence in getting this to work, but as an idea I thought I'd share it: I have a concept of a rotating-barrel automatic-chain-gun, that I can do no problem. BUT, to simulate muzzle-flash, I'm thinking of feeding butane/air down the barrels (blow-lamp type device) and igniting it. Initially, I think of slip-rings or similar and a camera-flash unit for ignition, motor drive on the barrels. Any advice? L

Topic by lemonie 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

Where is the best place to get soda tabs? Answered

I'm going to make a bunch of stuff that are made of the tabs, but I don't even have enough for half of a chain after two-three weeks.

Question by PastTheVoid 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

Home Made Chain Mail(le) Armour

Hey everyone, I am relatively new to the site but not at all to making my own things out of my head. Currently my only problem is how to do these things and the biggest of these is currently how to make Chain Mail(le) Armour from wire at home and by hand, with tools of course. My friend and I plan on making some for Halloween/ School Project/ metal forge safety gear. What I really need to know about all of this is how to make the rings, weave them, and seal them together (riveting, welding, etc...) and I was really hoping all of you people could help, what with the fact that you all seem good at this kind of thing. Feel free to leave suggestions for materials, tools, kinds of wire, and anything else you can think of that might be helpful. I plan on posting a full Instructable on doing this when we finish and perfect it, and thanks in advance for any help that is given.

Topic by sonaps 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago

I'm looking for a free alternative to those rubber rings that people put on keys to lessen the noise?

I've thought of Sugru, but that would cost more than actually buying the key covers. I want suggestions using stuff I can already find around the house. Thank you.

Question by Shadow13! 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago

Where do you find parts to make biker vest extenders?

I want to make my own vest extenders, but don't know where to find the large jump rings they need. I hate the idea of making my own, but thought I would ask if there is a supplier. I have the snaps the chains and the leather. Putting the parts together is easy finding the rings. HELP!

Question by Korahs 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

How can I color aluminum wire without annodizing?

I bought a spool of 14 gauge aluminum wire for chain maille. My goal is to have alternating black and natural colored rings used for the maille. In a household metal working book I found from the 80's, they said to,"Mix 2 tablespoons lye into 1 quart cold water. Add aluminum part for 1-2 minutes. Submerse part into household dye mixed according to manufacturers directions until desired depth of color is achieved. Rinse in cold water".I tried this method using RIT black household dye; however, it was not successful. I am trying to dye the wire both RED and BLACK. If no method for the red is found, I can purchase a short length of anodized red wire; however, If there are any chemical reactions for turning the wire black, that would be great. Thanks!!

Question by kreationism 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

how do u take the bike chainrings off?

hey im trying to build a fixie but wen i took off the cranks i tried to get the chain rings off but it was hard, theres no screws or allen wrench to take it off? if u kno how to take it off hit me up with a comment

Question by HmOnGbOi 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

USB Flash Drive keyring attachment

Everybody loves their flash drive, and most people keep them on their keys (or if you're really cool, on a lanyard around your neck with some kind of card identifying you as a professional geek). A few months ago I bought a little 4gb Lexar Firefly, and I love it. It's tiny and holds lots of information. As you can see in the picture, the hole where you attach a keyring is in the lid, not on the body of the drive. This cuts down on the drive's size, but means that the drive might fall out of the lid, or get forgotten and left behind. Naturally, this happened after not 3 months of ownership. After a while I lamented ever finding my trusty drive, and tossed the little clear plastic cap. However, lo and behold, I did find my little USB drive a long time later--Bbt now I have no way to attach it to my keys! Does anybody have some ideas for a key-attachment mod for my little firefly? I'd like to avoid adding any kind of bulky casing, but I will if it means not having to drop $25 on a new one.

Topic by thepeacefish 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

More hiss from external powered wah?

I put together a gig box with power, and everything is fine.only problem is I have a George Dennis wah at the beginning of the chain, with a battery it is just fine. It has a power jack mini plug ts connector. Tip is positive and ring is ground. I am a technician , so I made a cord from the gig box power supply, reversed the tip and ring, because the ring is positive with guitar toys, it works but now I have a lot of hiss, more than normal, I use a nova drive of distortion and have a noise gate. When I unplug the power from the wah the hiss normalizes. if I use an external power supply for the wah it is ok. Used a meter and the power is correct 9.3 volts dc. Not sure what to make of this?

Question by JosephR154 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago

What can I get my mother for her birthday when my budget is $20?

She doesn't like big jewlary. and her necklace chains have to be long so she can slip them over her head and she doesn't wear earings or rings. She likes to read and she is obssed with eeyore and has just about everything you can buy that has to do with him. I need help!!!!

Question by tinkerbell21 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

How to connect caster wheeled dollys in series so they rotate around corners for pullable parade float

I connected moving dollys with a D Ring screwed to on ends and a dog chain clasp in middle connecting a 1/4 between the dollys with same D Ring and swiveable dog clasp to hold light weight plastic tree designs for a float but the 1 by 4 doesn't stay level. I am trying to figure out how to connect a one by four between two moving dollys with pivot points so that I can navigate around corners for a moveable parade float that connects a series of these. I am stuck mainly on the middle one by four not staying level and toppling over. . Anybody make something similar on here? or have ideas? I want to be able to dismantle this and transport in a car or a truck.

Question by Kenosh 10 months ago

Hallowe'en competition - free idea for somebody.

I just had an idea for hallowe'en that I have neither the time nor the resources to do, but somebody else might.This would work best if your front door is some distance from the street, maybe with a creaky wooden porch to cross.Rig a fake wooden front door with a long inch-wide slot, top-to-bottom.Fill the slot in with a strip of something fragile (styrofoam? balsa? papier mache?). Maybe disguise the strip with smeared bloody hand-prints (especially round the door handle)Render a chainsaw "safe" (having never used a chainsaw, I don't know if this is possible - take the teeth off? replace the chain with a rubber belt?)When somebody rings the bell, start the chainsaw behind the door, give it a couple of revs and then cut through the fragile strip, laughing like a happy psycho.If the visitors are still there, stick one crazed eye up at the door and yell trick or treeeaaaat?Afterwards, mop the urine and faeces off your front step, replace the fragile strip, and settle back to wait for the next victim.

Topic by Kiteman 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago

(newsletter) DIY Deodorant, Glowing Goggles, Robot Voices...

Sign-up for this newsletter: Welcome back! We've got three fantastic contests this week, so get to work turning your great ideas and half-done projects into finished Instructables and enter! Pocket-Sized Contest - Think small, and win a custom laser-etched Leatherman! Get in the Garden Contest - Enter any Instructable with a gardening theme and win an awesome computer-controlled indoor composting machine from NatureMill! Art of Sound Contest - Share any music or sound-related Instructable, and win an incredible custom hi-fi tower set with subwoofer, monster speakers, and more!! Robot Voice Modulator Upside-Down Hanging Earth Box! Homemade Deodorant Used Tire Raised Garden & Tree Ring Save Space and Combat the Mess Leather Chain Necklace There's something fishy in my pocket! Programmable Leather Bracelet Quick and Cheap LED Lighting Scallop Your Guitar The Beverage Barge How to make a Cargo Kilt Win a cool computer-controlled indoor composter! Win these custom hi-fi speakers! Light Up Steampunk Goggle Mod One Cup Coffee Brewing Pocket-Sized Lantern Repair a Broken LCD Sign-up for this newsletter:

Topic by fungus amungus 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

August 28th, 1963

On this day, a Baptist minister from Atlanta Georgia stood up in front of a quarter of a million people, and said this: I am happy to join with you today in what will go down in history as the greatest demonstration for freedom in the history of our nation.Five score years ago, a great American, in whose symbolic shadow we stand, signed the Emancipation Proclamation. This momentous decree came as a great beacon light of hope to millions of Negro slaves who had been seared in the flames of withering injustice. It came as a joyous daybreak to end the long night of captivity. But 100 years later, we must face the tragic fact that the Negro is still not free. One hundred years later, the life of the Negro is still sadly crippled by the manacles of segregation and the chains of discrimination. One hundred years later, the Negro lives on a lonely island of poverty in the midst of a vast ocean of material prosperity. One hundred years later, the Negro is still languishing in the corners of American society and finds himself an exile in his own land.And so we've come here today to dramatize an appalling condition. In a sense we've come to our nation's capital to cash a cheque. When the architects of our republic wrote the magnificent words of the Constitution and the Declaration of Independence, they were signing a promissory note to which every American was to fall heir. This note was a promise that all men would be guaranteed the inalienable rights of "Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness."It is obvious today that America has defaulted on this promissory note insofar as her citizens of colour are concerned. Instead of honouring this sacred obligation, America has given the Negro people a bad cheque which has come back marked "insufficient funds." But we refuse to believe that the bank of justice is bankrupt. We refuse to believe that there are insufficient funds in the great vaults of opportunity of this nation. So we've come to cash this cheque - a cheque that will give us upon demand the riches of freedom and the security of justice. We have also come to this hallowed spot to remind America of the fierce urgency of now. This is no time to engage in the luxury of cooling off or to take the tranquilizing drug of gradualism. Now is the time to rise from the dark and desolate valley of segregation to the sunlit path of racial justice. Now is the time to lift our nation from the quicksands of racial injustice to the solid rock of brotherhood. Now is the time to make justice a reality for all of God's children.It would be fatal for the nation to overlook the urgency of the moment. This sweltering summer of the Negro's legitimate discontent will not pass until there is an invigorating autumn of freedom and equality. 1963 is not an end, but a beginning. Those who hope that the Negro needed to blow off steam and will now be content will have a rude awakening if the nation returns to business as usual.There will be neither rest nor tranquillity in America until the Negro is granted his citizenship rights. The whirlwinds of revolt will continue to shake the foundations of our nation until the bright day of justice emerges.But there is something that I must say to my people, who stand on the warm threshold which leads into the palace of justice: in the process of gaining our rightful place we must not be guilty of wrongful deeds. Let us not seek to satisfy our thirst for freedom by drinking from the cup of bitterness and hatred. We must forever conduct our struggle on the high plane of dignity and discipline. We must not allow our creative protest to degenerate into physical violence. Again and again we must rise to the majestic heights of meeting physical force with soul force.The marvellous new militancy which has engulfed the Negro community must not lead us to distrust of all white people, for many of our white brothers, as evidenced by their presence here today, have come to realize that their destiny is tied up with our destiny. They have come to realise that their freedom is inextricably bound to our freedom. We cannot walk alone. And as we walk, we must make the pledge that we shall march ahead. We cannot turn back. There are those who are asking the devotees of civil rights: "When will you be satisfied?" We can never be satisfied as long as the Negro is the victim of the unspeakable horrors of police brutality. We can never be satisfied as long as our bodies, heavy with the fatigue of travel, cannot gain lodging in the motels of the highways and the hotels of the cities. We cannot be satisfied as long as the Negro's basic mobility is from a smaller ghetto to a larger one. We can never be satisfied as long as our children are stripped of their selfhood and robbed of their dignity by signs stating "For Whites Only". We cannot be satisfied and we will not be satisfied as long as a Negro in Mississippi cannot vote and a Negro in New York believes he has nothing for which to vote. No, no, we are not satisfied, and we will not be satisfied until justice rolls down like waters and righteousness like a mighty stream.I am not unmindful that some of you have come here out of great trials and tribulations. Some of you have come fresh from narrow jail cells. Some of you have come from areas where your quest for freedom left you battered by the storms of persecution and staggered by the winds of police brutality. You have been the veterans of creative suffering. Continue to work with the faith that unearned suffering is redemptive.Go back to Mississippi, go back to Alabama, go back to Georgia, go back to Louisiana, go back to the slums and ghettos of our northern cities, knowing that somehow this situation can and will be changed.Let us not wallow in the valley of despair. I say to you today, my friends, that in spite of the difficulties and frustrations of the moment, I still have a dream. It is a dream deeply rooted in the American dream. I have a dream that one day this nation will rise up and live out the true meaning of its creed - we hold these truths to be self-evident: that all men are created equal.I have a dream that one day on the red hills of Georgia the sons of former slaves and the sons of former slave-owners will be able to sit down together at a table of brotherhood.I have a dream that one day even the state of Mississippi, a desert state, sweltering with the heat of injustice and oppression, will be transformed into an oasis of freedom and justice.I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the colour of their skin but by the content of their character.I have a dream today!I have a dream that one day, down in Alabama, with its vicious racists, with its governor having his lips dripping with the words of interposition and nullification; one day right there in Alabama little black boys and little black girls will be able to join hands with little white boys and white girls as sisters and brothers.I have a dream today!I have a dream that one day every valley shall be exalted, every hill and mountain shall be made low, the rough places will be made plain, and the crooked places will be made straight, and the glory of the Lord shall be revealed, and all flesh shall see it together.This is our hope. This is the faith that I will go back to the South with. With this faith we will be able to hew out of the mountain of despair a stone of hope.With this faith we will be able to transform the jangling discords of our nation into a beautiful symphony of brotherhood. With this faith we will be able to work together, to pray together, to struggle together, to go to jail together, to stand up for freedom together, knowing that we will be free one day.This will be the day, this will be the day when all of God's children will be able to sing with a new meaning: "My country, 'tis of thee, sweet land of liberty, of thee I sing. Land where my fathers died, land of the pilgrim's pride, from every mountainside, let freedom ring." And if America is to be a great nation, this must become true.And so let freedom ring from the prodigious hilltops of New Hampshire.Let freedom ring from the mighty mountains of New York.Let freedom ring from the heightening Alleghenies of Pennsylvania!Let freedom ring from the snow-capped Rockies of Colorado.Let freedom ring from the curvaceous peaks of California.But not only that.Let freedom ring from Stone Mountain of Georgia.Let freedom ring from Lookout Mountain of Tennessee.Let freedom ring from every hill and every molehill of Mississippi, from every mountainside, let freedom ring!And when this happens, when we allow freedom to ring, when we let it ring from every village and every hamlet, from every state and every city, we will be able to speed up that day when all of God's children, black men and white men, Jews and Gentiles, Protestants and Catholics, will be able to join hands and sing in the words of the old Negro spiritual: "Free at last! Free at last! thank God Almighty, we are free at last!"

Topic by Kiteman 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago

2 ways to have more fun with knex guns.

So the number 1 thing to do with knex guns is to organize knex wars.  But what if you can't go to a war?  Don't worry, I have come up with 2 more fun things to do that don't involve nearly as much organization and knex as a knex war.  To make it more fun, I have made a point system that gives you bonus points depending on the scenario. 1. The hit and run (20 points) 1. Gather up 2 friends and give them guns.  The guns you will use should have a fast ROF, like a knexsayer, ZKAR, or handle pump TR. 2. Pick out a house.  Have your friends go on each side of the door of the house, while you stand directly in front of the door. 3. Ring the doorbell. 4. When victim opens door, open fire! Bonus 5 points if you emptied 5 or more shots from your gun before the victim reacted Bonus 15 points if you got your ammo back. Bonus 30 points if the victim waved his fists in defiance and vowed revenge. 2. Hit and run- soliciter version (20 points) You know those guys that hang around stores and sidewalks with cardboard signs asking for money and stuff?  Well go get a NAR or a TR and have fun! 1. Go find one of these solicitors.  They usually hang out in front of big chain stores like WalMart and Target.  They might even be at the local mall. 2. Pull out a TR or a NAR and shoot a few rounds into their cardboard sign. 3. Repeat until you get chased off. Bonus 10 points if they had a sandwich sign or a 2 piece cardboard stand sign and your shot went through both ends. Bonus 20 points if said solicitor was working for a charity like the salvation army. Bonus 5 points if you got kicked out of the venue. Bonus 10 points if you got your ammo back. Well, that's all I have time to post.  I'll post some more stuff later on, k?

Topic by DJ Radio 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago

Instructables Build Nights!

Instructables is pleased to present the first in a new series of Thursday Build Nights here at our San Francisco HQ!These are small-group sessions focused on specific projects - you MUST RSVP to attend, as we can only handle a certain number of participants. Registrations will be handled on a first-come basis. We're starting with a bit of craft/tech crossover, and plan to run sessions on a variety of topics.October 2: Intro to Chain Mail with SpiderOctober 23: Halloween open build night.See the descriptions below for details, including things to bring and/or materials fees. To sign up for one of the sessions, simply private message Christy with your name, email, and phone number. We hope to see you there!October 2: Beginning Chainmail with SpiderLimit: 10 participants (confirmed RSVP required)Materials Fee: $10 Start Time: 7pmProject is a European 4-in-1 chainmail bracelet. I'll teach 4-in-1 because it's the most widely useful chainmail weave. Students can use this same weave to make jewelry, armor, sculpture, lampshades, iPod cozies, etc... The materials fee is $10, which covers copper jump rings and clasp, plus the loan of appropriate pliers. I'll bring other goodies for people to look at, and I'm happy to answer any and all chainmail-ish questions.Additional kits and tools will be available for purchase after class.October 23: Halloween Costume & Decoration Open Build NightLimit: none, but please RSVPMaterials: Bring your own!Time: 6pm-9pmWe'll be working on our Halloween costumes and decorations -- bring your work-in-progress along and join the fun! We've got plenty of floor/table space, a couple of sewing machines and other useful tools, and enough skill and imagination to share. It's always easier to get excited about your project when you're working with a group. Please RSVP so we know how much snack food to acquire, and how much of the office to clean up. We'll kick you out at 9pm, or when the last Instructables staff member has to head home.

Topic by randofo 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago

East Coast HPV Challenge - Quick Update

So yesterday started the east coast human powered vehicle challenge by ASME. Yesterday was the design portion of the event (and safety inspection/testing). So far we've seen lots of two and three wheelers -- everything from 100% upper body powered (for paraplegics) to a LWB tadpole leaning trike (wheels and all -- no banana lean there). Someone even showed up with a 75+ tooth front chain ring (it's a monster)! We had teams from all over, including two fro Venezuela. Some vehicles are fully faired, more partially. Many of man (and woman) hours invested in everything ;) First picture -- UCF (us!) - in the background is last year's model (complete with scars from several crashes). Note this year's design has rear view mirrors, ventilation and a vacu-formed windscreen :D Our ventilation is even adjustable (climate control perhaps? :P). Second and Third Picture: Leaning Trike -- also has conventional steering (no lockout mechanism though). Really cool to watch - they scored second in the "design innovation" category of the design competition. (Shameless Plug: we scored third in that category). A big deal with this leaning trike from Arkansas, the started DESIGNING in January! Believe me when I tell you - that is HUGE progress to make in such short time. On top of that -- almost all of their team members are getting married soon (their finance's must be VERY tolerant) and there's only something like 4 or 5 team members! I was really happy to see someone bring a leaning trike -- I give them a tip of my hat ;) Fourth Picture: This is what a high speed streamliner resembles -- note the landing gear (very awesome idea). They had some "knarly" crashed today involving hay bales, skidding and mulch (at the sprint event - more on that later). But, true to their safety claims -- no injuries. Fifth Picture: Probably one of my favorites at the event - Tadpole trike tandem (for people that hate each other :p). I want to test ride it (and they're cool enough to let people do that too!). I also say their frame is one of the best design wise (appears very stiff). Last Picture: Everyone listening to the official before the sprint event. Max speed (by that red streamliner I believe) at the sprint event today was 41mph (male rider) ;)

Topic by trebuchet03 12 years ago

Top 50 Instructables of 2007 Ranked by Pageviews

This is the first in a series of data-analysis posts I'm going to make over the next few days (or hours if I can't stop myself). I love statistics, analysis, and raw data and so thought I'd share some of the really cool stuff with you. Thanks to trebuchet03 for helping with this and actually crafting the queries. Here are the top Instructables published in 2007 ranked by pageviews (I know the year isn't over yet, but we're close enough):Instructable - Number of Pageviews1. Invisible Book Shelf - 399,6472. Laser Flashlight Hack!! - 374,0233. Mouse Mouse! - 348,8804. Opening up a coke machine - 199,5255. Wallet made from a computer keyboard - 177,1766. Creating a 3D effect with image editing software (GIMP or Photoshop) - 158,4367. [!-You_ll-be-Surprised... 12 Volt Battery Hack! You'll be Surprised...] - 142,6318. How to Kiss - 132,0659. Zippo Trick: The Twilight Zone - 128,89410. Cracking/Hacking Windows Passwords - 126,39211. Lock Someone To A Tree Without Ropes, Chains, Or Any Other Ties (updated 25/07/07) - 124,42012. Wifi Signal Strainer (WokFi) Long Distance - 122,18913. Han Solo in carbonite chocolate bar! - 119,67014. Hidden Door Bookshelf - 117,38015. Homemade Infrared Goggles! For Under $10 - 117,34816. How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily) - 113,82217. Trigger GREEN Traffic Lights - 111,99218. 25MM Pneumatic Sniper Rifle - 104,88019. Take Infrared Pictures With Your Digital Camera - 104,37620. Shutdown Your School! - 101,28821. Build a Nintendo NES PC - 98,75622. Interactive Multitouch Display - 96,52623. How to date a girl who is way out of your league. - 95,86124. make crystal clear ice! - 94,76425. Build a Tetris DVD (or book) shelf - 94,16226. Easy to Build Desk Top 3 Axis CNC Milling Machine - 93,14227. Solar Thermal Water Heater For Less Than Five Dollars - 90,62228. How to perform your own Tongue Bifurcation - 88,90929. EMP shopping cart locker - 87,82330. How to "Fly" a Human Powered Hydrofoil - the "Aquaskipper" - 85,77931. Barbie Doll Electric Chair Science Fair Project! - 85,48932. Use an LCD Monitor as a TV without a Computer - 82,44133. How To Make A "Secret Container" Out Of A LIGHTER - 81,40334. $60 Laser Engraver / Cutter - 79,76035. Turn Your Old CRT Computer Monitor Into A Fish Tank ! ! ! - 78,59636. Make a cool hologram illusion! - 75,99137. $100 Super Bright Flashlight for under $10! - 75,78638. The Ice Bulb - 74,84839. Solar Heater - 73,96140. Laptop Converted to 2nd Monitor - 73,26641. Tetris Ice Cubes - 72,22042. Get Money from Jammed Vending Machines, Pay Phones, etc. - 71,46143. How to Make Your Own Prototypes : How to make your own Plastic Vacuum Former - 70,30944. Laser Cutter Contest Update: Fewer Rules, More Time! - 70,09245. Portable 12V Air Conditioner --Cheap and easy! - 69,88546. Homemade Laundry Detergent - 68,42647. The Spiral Data Tato -- A Curiously Complex Origami CD Case - 68,42048. String Tripod - 68,20749. [ How to softmod your xbox...for FREE] - 66,58850. How to make a Green Lantern ring- including a glowing version! - 65,802

Topic by ewilhelm 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago

whats next (updated)

Ok i bough this knex lot on for $42 and it comes with tons of stuff and below is what it has from the bid. take a look.This weighs OVER 20 pounds and we stored them in a Almost full, 64 quart Rubbermaid container (not included) LOTS AND LOTS!! Some of the pieces included are from rare and older sets, some of the pieces/sets are from the early 1990's.In the pictures is a 2 liter of soda, for size reference, not included.One picture is of the lot together, one is of the instructions included from front and top to see thickness, and one is of the motors and zip pull car included.There are 3 motors included in this lot; *one is a big alien(?) head, that i don't know what it is or what its from, but its a blue head & a big black power box & 2 additional motors that are all attached to the head with wires. I am unsure if this works, (untested) because i don't know what it is supposed to do, it does take batteries and as far as i can tell, it does not use a power cord. *One large grey one, takes batteries and does work, it measures about 6 inches long, 2 inches wide, 2 1/2 inches tall and goes forward and reverse and slow and fast, this come with batteries in it and can be used for ANYTHING! Cars, farris wheel, swings, anything your little ones hands can make!*another motor is the motor that came with the Farris wheel and/or roller coaster set, one of those, it is untested because the power cord box is missing from it, but it is a typical power box plug that is needed. worked last time my kids built a farris wheel ;0)Several WheelsI did not go through and inventory them all, because there are alot! But it does appear that they are all in pairs. There are 4 BIG monster truck wheels with rims (complete set) and there are medium wheels and small wheels that all share the same rims, there are also skinny wheels for like dragster type or motorcycle vehicals. and more!A zip-pull racer car, speedster!One red zip-pull racer car body, with pull, used for building a car or racer around and then insert the zip pull above the wheel and when you pull it out really fast the car takes off!!! No batteries required and it works!! (And there are instructions for this in here also.)Lots of gears! Lots of sticks in various colors and sizes!Lots of plugs and rings, or end pieces for stabalizing and holdingSeveral fans or flat pieces, (i.e. for a windmill or spoiler on cars etc)A few bendable pieces to make arches and turns2 bodies for making peopleSeveral caps and tops and 'balls' for building different thingsRubber bands for Racers and gears (instructions included)Instructions are for;(instructions are not in the best conditions, some have been ripped and taped back together, and some are missing small corner pieces, and have folds in them, but they are not missing pages as far as i can tell)*Rubber Band Racers (no model number on booklet)*Breakaway Speedsters 11524/21524*Street scorchers 11127*Safari Fun Set 11558/69815*Intermediate set 50015 and some loose various pages that may have been from another book/set that was simular or more advanced are inside this book also.*4X speedsters 3 10315/69948*Knex motor pack instructions for use (for the motor that is missing the AC adapter, says it uses input 120 volts AC 60Hz 12 watts, output 12 volts DC 500 mA adapter.) and there is a costumer service number on it to order replacments, so that may still be available.*Zoo 10 models building set 31009*Vehicles 10 models building set 31008*All terrain trekker builds 3 models set (uses the big gray battery motor) 13501/23505*Roller Coaster instructions Loop Version 63030 (I do not recall us having this roller coaster set and did not see any 'rail' pieces in this mess of Knex, but I did see some 'chain' pieces and gears, most of the set looks like the normal pieces, with exception of the top rails.)*AND also some advertising booklets that came with the sets that show additonal sets, the kids kept them and would use them to copy the pictures and build from them.*I do Not have instructions for that big head thing...I really do not know where we got it...??? But it is K'nex brand.All the instructions included are Awesome to have, because thats what usally gets lost, However, this lot does not included all the sets i have instructions for, and the ones I do have are probably not complete. Most of the instructions though can be used with any Knex pieces, I am just saying if you seperated them all out according to the instructions you will not have complete sets, and some pieces may not be there at all. These are used and were loved by my boys and some pieces were mine when I was younger and are 18+years old. I did not notice any broken pieces left in this lot, but there are A LOT of knex so there may be some, the few I did noticed i took out and threw away.but i was wornding what should i bulid but im make a listmakeing:ossr by dj radiocirle ball machine by iacscar11.01 and morriti and Park 52 knex sniper by the burrito masteriac's knex heavy cannonbox,nano,duex by darth trainmancrank by smileedos,project n,uno by the jamalamLithium by the knex weaslemicro by cfcubedthis is not well know so it has link Ultimate Simplicity 1: relentless,Project 2: Aggresor by tombuckeyThe Storm 223 V1.3 knex gunKnex Tavor TAR-21 by maxxium

Topic by knexsuperbuilderfreak 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago

Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Topic by Downunder35m 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago