I have a 1980 Qld ambulance - which has a lot of rust in the floor - walls and roof of the cabin - I was wondering if anyone had any tips for taking the rust out apart from using oxy and jam cans. Cheers

Would the metal used for aerial be able to have water running though it, for a water gun, Thanks.

We got some rust stains on clothing, Washing did not help. Any help

How do I prevent rust?  Or should I just not worry about the rust?  I am using single sided board etched with ferric chloride, if that matters. Also I need the copper to conduct "on the top", like if I put a multimeter on a trace it would still conduct.  So I can't use something like a clear coat spray paint. AI

Does anyone know anything about Electrolysis rust removal. I tried it today on an old drill bit as an experiment and it worked quite well but I was wondering how I could improve my system. I was wondering how the voltage, amperage and surface area of the anode affect the time taken and the quality of the part. Also is there anything else that Effects ( or Affects )  either of these these. I used 2 litres of water and 2 table spoons of soda crystals with a 5 volt 16 amp supply. When I perfect my method I will clean up a very old and rusty Lister D.

I can not seem to find any pure iron oxide for sale in my area; however I did find a product which contains iron oxide which I was going to try extracting. I found a website that lists all the ingredients of the product. http://agr.wa.gov/pestFert/Fertilizers/FertDB/prodinfo.asp?pname=4486 there is 2 parts per million of arsenic and 1 of mercury. I know this is very small but should I be worried about any negative side affects if I handle this stuff to much?

I am looking for a fast and easy product for my volunteers to use on a steam engine that is being restored and wondered if these products are any good and worth the $$$ they charge? These products seem to be an improvement over the gloping on of the Naval Jelly and hundreds of man hours of wire brushing and sanding, priming and painting... Just wanted to know from an outside source if these are good and effective so I can recommend them to the Board of Directors and not end up looking like a jerk... They already think I don't know much because I'm younger and a girl! For example, I am still trying to convince them that the engines on static display would look nicer for longer if they used an epoxy based paint instead of exterior house paint! I appreciate any thoughts you have on the two products listed, if you know anything about them! Thanks!

OK, so I have this big water treatment plant around me and there is a huge pit where the soil is deep orange and filled with rust. I know its rust because the people who work there told me its rust. If you just touch it your fingers are orange. So I went down there with a plastic bag and gathered up some chunks of soil that were dry and orange. I was wondering how i could extract the iron oxide(rust)  from it so there is no dirt in it and I have a pile of rust. I want to use it for thermite. Thanks alot!

I picked up this old and weather worn but nice bench at Goodwill.  Made of REAL materials, metal and wood.  No plastic!   The first link below shows the whole bench.  The slats are deteriorated and if I can't rehab them I will look for a hardwood pallet to repurpose.  The problem I'm facing is that the 1/4" steel bolts attaching the slats have rusted.  I will replace these with stainless steel bolts, but I first need to remove the rusted bolts, without damaging the frame or further damaging the wood.  The other two links show the two sides of the bolts.  I think these are beyond loosening with WD-40.  The best I can think of is to grasp the back end of the bolt with a locking plier and drill through the head with a 1/4" bit.  If you know of a better method, I'd like to hear.   Another question is, once I have this bench rehabed, it will be sitting where it gets exposure to the sun for most of the day. What is the best clear coating that I can apply to preserve the wood under this circumstance? Bench http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/Bench-1.jpg Screw (front) http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/BenchS.jpg Nut (back) http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t306/lesiz/BenchN.jpg

Our friends at ReadyMade have teamed up with Rust-Oleum to bring you a chance to Win a $1000 Home Depot Gift Card and a Custom Furniture Makeover from ReadyMadeAre you kidding? I mean, Am I kidding? I'm so there! I can't wait to see how ReadyMade makes over the winner's furniture too!So send in your cars, your fire extinquishers (cause I like pink), your. . . Halo 3 Master Chiefs?Send it all in! Hatch something new and post it here too!Projects will be judged on creativity, how easy your project is for other ReadyMakers to try, and your project's overall style and beauty.It's like you've been training for this.

Problem: The house I moved in to still has galvanised steel pipes for all water connections. The rust and deposit build up is so bad that with a pressure nozzle on the garden hose I reach aroun 20m from the tap near the mater meter but only around 5m in the backyard. To make things worse these restrictions affect the hot water. If I open the hot water tap and then open a col water tap the hot slows and then the flow fully stopps. The landlord already stated he has no intentions of replacing the pipes at this stage as it is quite costly. The possible solution: I was thinking of flushing the system with oxalic or phosphoric acid to break down rust and deposits. The questions: Has anyone tried this and has some feedback on how good or bad it worked? Do I have to fill the entire system with the acid or is it enough to get a few liters in and hope it will spread/dilute through the system within 24 hours? Is it advisable to use a bucket and aquarium pump (probably something stronger) to circulate the acid through the pipes?

There is a "rust movement" that seems to be in fashion these days.  I understand that iron will rust but it seems to be made to happen a bit faster than normal in the dry Arizona desert. One picture is of a fence that has been finished for some time.  The other is of a mail box that was just finished.

My dad has got a yamaha xs650 but the fuel tanks got rust in it. What solvents can I put in to remove the rust without removing the tank or messing up the fuel? The pics are of 1)in the tank 2)The motorbike 3)a blurry pic of inside the tank

How do you clean rust from metal jewelry? and those greenish residue thingy on metal jewelry.. how do you clean it? Safely without damaging the jewelry..?

I have a 93 Pathfinder with a rusty frame, I just discovered that the rust has eaten a hole through the frame and I'd like to repair it.... how do I go about it??

I bought a 98 Pontiac Sunfire for 400. I knew it would have its problems and even possibly rust (which i found in the frame). So far it seems isolated to a couple spots under the trunk. There is a hole around 3 inches wide and the other spot isn't an open hole (just rust). These are the only two problem areas I have found.

Want to see the information on the magnetic strip in your credit card? Just take some fine rust powder and blow it onto the card to see the magnetic bands that get picked up by card readers. This won't help you read the information any better, but it does show you the hidden world in magnetic cards and that's pretty sweet. Another Science Experiment via boingboing

I dont want a good job or a really bad job just want to cover or stop the car from rusting just want ok job will a spray can of mach paint from parts house work or  a cheap spray can from friend work

I want to get a piece of sheet metal. Then create a stencil and rust the remaining piece of metal. To create an image out of the rust. Once the work is done I don't want the rust to spread but to remain as is. Any idea how to do this. I know you can rust metal using chlorine and vinegar but the idea of making chlorine gas and a toxic mess is not appealling. Thanks for your help.?

I have this old bayonet from 1878. It has an inscription on the blade. I would like to clean it up. Could anyone recommend a good way to clean it up but not de-value the item?

I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty and the correct hitch and mounting hardware (bolts and washers).  Unfortunately, the holes in the frame are very rusted from the 8 years of driving without a hitch.  I can't even get the bolts to seat properly.  I checked and made sure that they are the right bolts for the vehicle.  I tried a thread cleaner kit from a local garage but wasn't able to make any progress.  Soaked the holes with WD-40 but still no luck.  I can't put a nut and washer on the other side because it's a box frame.  I'm debating using a brass bristle brush on a drill to try to clean it out but that could ruin the threads.  Any ideas?

I don't want to paint it though. It is for the underneath side of a porch roof. I don't want to spend major $$ on reclaimed tin if I can make it look that way myself.... HELP!

I have one of those old Radio Flyer red wagons, it was a wonderful little toy when I was a kid, but now it is a rusty and sad thing in my backyard. The wheels still work, the handle still turns, but the wheels have big patches of rust, and so does the metal container on top of the wheels. I wanna make it look good again, maybe mod it a bit?

Today while using an exacto knife to cut some excess material on a shelf, I used too much force and the knife slid off and poked my palm. About an inch below my thumb. Now the exacto knife I was using wasn't in particulary good shape, some rust, and white out on the tip. This was an old tool I was using for not so clean projects. Well I managed to poke myself and I was wondering if I have a Tetnus Infection. The symtoms are muscle spasms, stiffness, and lockjaw. I read symtoms never occur on the first day, but now it's been 2 hours since I was cut and my right lower bach is starting to ache, maybe I'm just paranoid and it's because of my poor posture when I sit and I'm focusing on it. I washed the wound with soap and water twice, put a band aid on it, took it off when I read it needed oxygen to kill the germs, now I'm typing this. The last time I hade my dTap was probly maybe 6-7 years, or 1-2 years I cannot remember. I can't go the doctors because of reason I can't explain right now. If it gets urgent I'll call a paramedics or something. Should I be worried? Should I get to the doctors to get a booster? Should I go cry in the corner while the effects of Tetnus slowly overwhelm me to the point where the muscle spasms reach my back and I start to spas out unitl I die?

I have a couple dozen drill bits and circular saw bits that have light to moderate surface rust but are in otherwise very good condition.  Is there something I can use on them to remove the rust without having to sand, scrub, or file each tooth of each blade indivigualy?  Some product that I can wipe on, spray on, or let them soak overnight that will remove the rust without dulling the blades?

I want to make things out of steel and then coat them in an oxidizing agent of some sort so that they are covered in surface rust and look really aged.

Which is better for removing rust from the inside of a motorcycle gas tank using the electrolysis method? Steel anode or carbon graphite anode? I have tried both. I like the carbon graphite better. It seems to be a cleaner process and to work just as good as the steel anode. Should I use 12 volts or 3 volts? Does a pulsating DC work better than a continuous DC? What is the best amperage?

I have tried a dozen different methods to prevent rust. Just cleaning it after every use with some grill cleaner then wire brushing alone before using again seems to keep the rust to a minimum at best on my original top grate which i believe is stainless, my bottom grate is the replacement flat one from Menards and that one doesn't rust yet but the black coating is quickly disappearing. My food sticks terribly to both grates no matter how much Pam I spray on them. What do you do for your grill? What's that one thing you do different that makes your neighbor pissed when he is out buying a new grate? At this point I'm thinking a good high speed drill w/ wire brush and then rubbing it with lard or some kinda congealed fat.   OOooooooohhh. I just had an AWESOME idea, I'm gonna go rub it down with my used bacon grease then maybe a warm water rinse so there's not enough to burst into flames later.

We use it to cook hotdogs, smores and such. I am just worried that something may catch fire while using it later. Most products that I have been reading about say not to spray anywhere near the inside. My pit is a bowl type with about a six inch lip on top. The whole bowl and top are rusted and I paid a lot of money for it and would rather not have to buy a new one if I can restore this one. Any ideas?

I was looking for a way to make rust (ironoxide) and found that bleach coul be used as an oxidizer; however, I would not know when it was finished breaking down. With some research I found that NaClO + H2O2 -> O2 + NaCl + H2O. I think I can use this to either: use the NaClO and make the ironoxide, then add the H202 to break do the residual NaClO (extra H2O2 can be evaporated with the H2O), or used the reaction to speed up the ironoxide making with a bit of extra H2O2 to insure all the NaClO is used and the evaporate off the rest. (which would be better? would be my first question, but not the most pressing one) My question is how can I sepperate the Iron oxide from the NaCl (salt), since both are water soluble (sp)? A filter will seperate out larger pieces of ironoxide, but there will still be a fair amount that passes through the filter with the salt and I would like to minimize my loses as much as possible.

 I have some machined steel parts I would like to black oxide to prevent rust and to make look nice. I would like to know the chemicals involved to make the immersion bath for room temperature black oxide.

I want to make steampunk stuff but i`m not sure if i can steal any of those lego gears from anybody. any onther ideas where to get them?

I am making some iron oxide using the method with the 9 volt and nail in saltwater. Im a little confused however in all the thermite instuctables it says that the wire that bubbles the most is the positve wire. When i connect the (what the battery says) is positive to the nails and insert the negative into the water it seems like more bubbles are kinda comming off the stripped negative wire. The water is turning a little green(update-its not to green anymore) There is brown stuff floating at the top of the water.which doesnt burn my skin and smells like metal. I am using copper wire. Any suggestions?

i'm trying to make thermite i know every way possible but i don't know if you can make the proper rust for thermite using steel or any other metal i know thermite also consists of aluminum filings and yes i do have the materials to make them

I have a '99 Jag. Body like a new car. Purrs like a kitten. I let it set for 2 years because it needed coil packs replaced. Now it has a slightly surface rusted oil pan, tranny pan and brake line couplers. All the brake lines themselves are fine (they are coated). The under body is solid, not even surface rust. BUT there are 2 spots the size of 50 cent pieces of rust on the front frame. No holes but the rust extends through, one on each side front frame. Can this be SAFELY repaired? The rest of the frame is perfect and even around the 2 spots is solid without even any surface rust. I LOVE this car and HATE to part it out.

First of all, sorry for my English! I was thinking of a way of avoid the rusting of the knives, but I had no idea how to do it! And buy a new one every week is very difficult because I live in El Salvador and do not sold knives anywhere (not to mention how expensive they are)! Do you have a way to prevent it, and keep the edge of the knives? Thanks in advance!

There is much more rust on our walls, especially drawing room walls are peeling, Any one plz inform me solution to hide it or remove it.

I wanted to prevent rust buildup on some of my tools. Especially on my drill bits. I have been reading a few and mostly found out that Johnson's paste wax are what other people use to prevent rust. Does a rubbing compound alone will prevent rust or does it need to be finished with a paste wax? I do notice that the rubbing compound is mostly to level or smoothen the surface. Just wondering if it also has the ability to prevent rust. Thank you.

Is there a way I can clean a 2 stroke gas motor that I disassemble? I want to get rid of all this grease and this oil and if possible, is there a way to remove rust? I tried with water but there is still grease on it

I'm refinishing my steel medicine cabinet. Its old and a little rusty in spots, so I sanded it smooth and removed as much rust/old paint as I could. I washed it down, let it dry and gave it two coats of Rustoleum "rusted metal" primer in the can. I also purchased a few cans of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Spray paint. However, I didn't note that in the instructions, it says "priming is not recommended".  I already have the cabinet primed and ready for paint at this point and would like some imput on putting this epoxy over the primer.   

I recently bought a water trap filter for my air compressor (Black & Decker CP2525). When I unscrewed the pressure regulator and the air hose to make the connections I noticed that the air circuit was littered from white sludge (condensate + oil). I am afraid that this stuff will clog the filter quickly. Should I clean it? How can I clean it?

Would regular clorox bleach in a container with a peice of iron over time create iron oxide?

Sometimes I'd like to protect steel from moisture without paint.  Partly this is a practical matter. Figure I'll weld somethin else on sooner or later, and would rather not deal with burning paint. Partly it's an aesthetic. Not long ago, saw a 50s pickup that someone was in process of restorin.  Just gorgeous while it was stripped of all paint. So... Linseed oil?  Wax? Or option C thru Z?

So I Found A really old knife out hiking and it won't open. can someone help? It looks like the picture, The Blade is one side and what I think is a can opener and a file is on the other side and the handle is missing 

Hello all, I'm building a DIY wood aquarium conopy/hood and I'm thinking of using Rust-Oleum appliance spray paint for the interior, was wondering if anyone has every used it on wood? Or any suggestions for aquarium hood interior paint. Thinking of either that or using some white spray paint and then a top coat of spar urethane? Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!

Hey, my friend just sold me a bmx frame to me for a good price, but the paint is old and its rusty. I sort of have an idea of how to paint it; sand it, wash it, dry it, prime it, then paint it. however, that's just my guess as to how it would be done. camn anyone suggest some things that i should or should not do? thanks.