How do you build a home made wood burning Sauna heater?

1 Nov 2011.    I am stuck on a Firebase in Afghanistan and winter is approaching fast. So i was thinking that building a sauna would be a cool project.  The wood shack isn't that hard, but how to build the stove/ heater/ thing? So, Any ideas?

Question by EcoExpatMike   |  last reply


Infrared Sauna wiring?

Well, I bought a used infrared sauna the other day for real cheap because it "just stopped working all at once". Figuring its just a fuse or something, I took it. Well now I cant figure it out for the life of me.What seems to be the problem is that no power is getting to the primary transformer. That would be on the second small circuit board to the right. It is getting to the secondary transformer fine. Heres a pic of whats goin on. Those things on the sides are fuse holders, (no not burnt out).

Question by LiquidLightning   |  last reply


How to Build a Sauna?

For DIY 2 people simple

Question by Petric   |  last reply


Requesting ideas to build a sauna or mini sweat lodge

I know i can't be the only person to want to build my own sauna?! I've seen some online but the quality looks dodgy for the price... so i thought i would throw the idea out there and see if it was possible! I wanted to try and sew together that reflective material that is a blanket for emergencies with a small foldout chair inside with a small ceramic heater (is the heater safe? or is there a better alternative heater out there). What do you guys think? how can i tweak this to better or improve upon design! All suggestions would be helpful!!

Topic by kboxster   |  last reply


Making a dry sauna heater with parts from a 120v hot plate

I have a small closed in shower (31" X 31") and have sealed the 6" opening over the door. It makes for a great steam room. However, I love very hot dry saunas. I have been wondering if I could make a small heater placed in the corner with one or more single burner hot plates and stones. I am wondering if this could be done safely if the AC lines are totally protected. I could easily turn of the power when showering. I welcome any feedback.

Topic by hywmiles   |  last reply


My Infrared Sauna keeps turning off by itself mid program.

It turns on, heats up for about 1 to 10 minutes, then click, turns off.  What can cause this?  I usually unscrew the light bulb so it does NOT come on during the cycle, I like to sit in the dark and sweat!  When I screw lightbulb to turn on, unit immediately clicks off. I have been having some panel problems where the time keypad or the temperature keypad will not respond as well.

Question by WendyR63   |  last reply


where can i find free plans to build a sauna?

I would like to build a small sauna in my basement,trying to find sample plans or ideas

Question by puckshooter   |  last reply


backpacking sauna how to heat it without using hot rocks, ie perhaps with a portable steam generator or boiler ?

Hi all i am building a back packing sauna which is essentialy a old two man tent converted.  my problem is the heat source for the steam.tradionally people would heat rocks in an open fire. this i feel is time consuming building a fire and then heating rocks for 2 hours or so. i am now thinking of trying to generate steam direct from a wood gas stove and piping it in to the tent anyone with ideas or sugestions please post here. whatever i use needs to be suitable for back packing. thanks Robert

Question by robertuk444   |  last reply


Steam generator for a home-made steam room

I love steam rooms. i want to build one out behind our house in the country in thailand. but it has to be low-tech. i'm thinking i'll make a square wall out of cinderblocks, about 4 feet high. then my shower will stick up from that .we don't have running water. we get water pumped from the well into big jars and use a bowl to splash water on ourselves to wash. but i put a submersible pump in the bottom of the jar, rigged up some PVC pipe and i have a shower of sorts. so if i build a 4 foot high square wall, with a doorway, i can pull a thick piece of foam over the top to cover the top, hang a rubber curtain across the doorway opening, and have an enclosed, outdoor room that i can steam up and sweat the gunk out, then stand up, flip off the insulating cover and shower right there. the steam room will go right behind me and the jars in the shower picture- where you can see a little bit of grass growing. but how do i make a steam generator? commercial ones cost way more dollars (baht) than i need to spend. i can use propane from a tank for fire, or wood, or charcoal. the well water is very hard water with a lot of dissolved minerals in it so my steam generator can't be something that will get clogged up with mineral deposits. anybody got any ideas? the steam generator needs to be cheap, home-build-able with local materials, and safe... don't want anything that can blowup, catch fire, or asphyxiate the users.

Topic by Thaikarl   |  last reply


back packing sauna problem. i want to make a portable heat and steam source for a small 2 man tent sized sauna?

I am trying to design a lightweight portable steamer for a back packing sauna. i do not want to use hot rocks as this is time consuming an the rocks are not always available. idealy the heat source would be outside of the sauna and the steam piped in. i am not sure how much water it is going to take, which means i may have to have some way keeping the boiler etc topped up from a plastic container. i have considered using a conventional wood burning stove with a coil of copper pipe within but cannot get my head around how this would work with out a  kettle type reservoir to hear the water, if the water was just heated in the copper pipe coil fed from a lightweight water container i would imagine i would then need much less heat, help please.

Question by robertuk444   |  last reply


Infared sauna electrical failure - help? Answered

Hello I purchased this sauna used a couple days ago, and its not turning on.. The previous owner sold it as having only an issue with the fuse, but I have exchanged all fuses, and Im assuming its one of the three components that are running in the rectangular unit mounted on top of the sauna. I will post all the photos so you are able to see detailed views of everything - I have now ordered a replacement for the power supply (s-35-12) as I cant imagine the transformer would short the entire sauna.  internal fuses are all 3 amp, this is the power supply (but the power running from mains is standard 13amp):  https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/MiWi-S-35-12-AC-DC-switching-mode-power-supply/700113_1699513295.html And from what I can tell there is a sort of voltage regulator on that PSU which has a phillips white screw which is used for adjusting.  My guess is that previous owner set it for wrong output and it blew the PSU? Alternatively there is the main board, but I wouldnt know what to look for, nor how to replace, as it had no particular model number. I tested current coming from mains to the main board (sorry I dont have technical name for that) and electricity is definitely arriving there, but not sure where (or if) it goes after.  I tried to swap one of the kettle lead fuses for the one on the PSU board, and then power on, but as soon as I tripped the power to on it blew the fuse.. image 1 and 2 are overview, image 3 is writing on PSU, image 4 is transformer, image 5 is main board and image 6 is PSU (which I have ordered replacement for). Thank you for your help!

Question by NigelD19   |  last reply


valve idea wanted for for a automatic top up on a small low pressure boiler

Hi Can anyone sugest a way for me to automacily top up a boiler as the level drops whilst generating low preasure steam. I am building a small boiler steam generator for a sauna, my problem is that the boiler needs to be small and portable for backpacking and treking so therefore may only hold a couple of litres of water, the small tent style sauna will demand more than this. the boiler may be something simple like a kettle with a pipe attached to carry the steam into the sauna, but whilst taking a sauna i do not want to have to keep topping up the boiler, i have a constant heat source so no problems there. i also have a collapsable fold up plastic water carrier which i can suspend above the boiler as a reservoir but will need some sort of valve that allow the boiler to top up automaticlly. hope that all makes sense. thanks in anticipation. robert

Topic by robertuk444   |  last reply


Can anyone sugest a way for me to automacily top up a boiler as the level drops whilst generating low preasure steam.

Can anyone sugest a way for me to automacily top up a boiler as the level drops whilst generating low preasure steam. I am building a small boiler steam generator for a sauna, my problem is that the boiler needs to be small and portable for backpacking and treking so therefore may only hold a couple of litres of water, the small tent style sauna will demand more than this. the boiler may be something simple like a kettle with a pipe attached to carry the steam into the sauna, but whilst taking a sauna i do not want to have to keep topping up the boiler, i have a constant heat source so no problems there. i also have a collapsable fold up plastic water carrier which i can suspend above the boiler as a reservoir but will need some sort of valve that allow the boiler to top up automaticlly. hope that all makes sense. thanks in anticipation. robert

Question by robertuk444   |  last reply


3 phase to 240v?

I have a sauna heater Voltage: 380~400 V 3N~ is there any well of wiring it up to 240v 

Question by gary.beecroft.92   |  last reply


Laundry room with no exterior walls in need of a better dryer exhaust solution! Ideas?

I have a dryer with an exhaust vent that could not possible exit my condo as it is in a stack in the very center of my unit; moreover, even with a crafty snaking of ventilation piping couldn't get it near an exterior wall.  As you can guess, when I dry my clothes the utility room turns into a sauna and all of my walls develop condensation from the hot air and water vapor the dryer is using and extracting.  Does anyone have any good ideas for how I could reduce the condensation build-up or even alleviate the problem?  I thought of making some sort of dispersal fan to cool the hot dryer air as it exits the dryer, but I am not sold on this idea.

Question by interested1   |  last reply


Cabins/shelter from garbage/recycling and then some- new site/blog- and INDIE BOOK released

D.I.Y. Micro-Shelters: NEW indie book-forum/site- w/cabins from garbage/recycling and then some I figured it was about time to get up off my arse and get an actual account here, as on a few other sites I constantly(!) read. I'll also post a few of the "constructed-from-roadside-trash" cabins I've built soon- here and on my own blog/site (if anyone's interested, if not, I'll resume beer drinking, and general relaxation). I'm also in the process of building a 16 square foot multi-purpose, mobile cabin-sleeper/sauna/greenhouse/ice-fishing shanty that I'll eventually post upon (its one of three cabins in the works in my Sanford N' Son-like backyard)- yeah, my wife is a trooper! http://www.relaxshax.com http://www.relaxshacks.com In the meantime, after WELL over a year of illustrating and writing, I've now finally completed (through tiny yellow house press) my own small houses/cabins book "Humble Homes, Simple Shacks, Cozy Cottages, Ramshackle Retreats, Funky Forts- And Whatever The Heck Else We Could Squeeze In Here." Clockin' in, coffee-table-book size, at just over 100 pages filled with avalanches of sketches and redneck-thrift/yankee ingenuity projects and ideas, I'm now selling a small initial run of these hand assembled books (you can find all the details on the blog/post). Building your own windows, doors, solar showers, rainbarrels, bridges, furniture, and more from recycled crud, is all covered within. Inspirationally, the books owes good parts of its existence to the work of Lester Walker, David and Jeanie Stiles, D.C. Beard, Dan Price, and Lloyd Kahn. All in all, I'm a small-house book junky, and after the well started drying up a little (I've bought and read all the decent ones I could find) I decided to write my own. Anyway, thanks for looking, and I'll get some small house photos up soon! Happy belated new years to all! -Derek "Deek" Diedricksen

Topic by Deek D   |  last reply


The risks of DIY carpet cleaning and how save a buck or two....

I am writing this partly because of bed experiences with rental angents/landlords and as a general help.Here in Australia as well as other parts of the world it is common pratise that a real estate agent goes through your rented home multiple times a year to check if you keep it clean and undamaged.In most cases these visits go without any hickup until you move out.At this point agents often try to make your life a misery.Some expect you get the house back to the state it was 10 years ago when you moved - an impossible task.Carpet cleaning is usually done with a rented machine.This mean you pay a deposit for the machine and "rent" is made by the highly overpriced cleaning fluid you have to use with the machine.But more and more people see that a $100 machine from the discounter is a "money saver".So lets start with the main differences between a rented, commercial grade machine and those you find at the discounter to buy.The later comes quite small and in plastic, the commercial one is usually all metal and has huge water and waste tank.And lets be honest here, if a good vacuum cleaner sets you back more than twice what your new floor cleaning machine costs.....For me the real difference is in the sucktion.If you start with 10 liters in a commercail machine then you should expect to get over 8 liters back in the waste tank.The added waste often makes it seem much more though ;)The cheap discounter vesion however often struggles to get half of the water back out of your carpet that it drained into it!This is not only due to the weaker vacuum created but also due to the general design and lack of sealing the area that is sucked up.But during a hot summer week this makes no vital difference as it dries off anyway, or does it?Dryness and contamination....If you wash your clothes than you let them fully dry before you wear them.With a freshly cleaned carpet we often don't have that luxury and if the weather won't play nice you might end with a moist carpet for weeks.A proper wash of the carpet would require that water is actually flowing through the fabric.This is achieved by designing water outlets and sucktion areas to be in close proximity.However, most carpets these days are thin and flimsy, the underlay brings the comfort and often the required insulation from the cold floor.Fun fact: Most quality carpets in the EU come with a rubber or foam like backing which prevents that little spills go through and also leave the carpet basically dry after a cleaning.If the amount of water your machine collects does not get very close to what you filled into the tank then you end with a quite wet carpet and underlay.Cold from underneath and with basically no airflow through it.And if you ever removed an old carpet that was cleaned every few years you do know why you wear a protective suit, gloves and a filter mask on your face....It is simply impossible with a handheld machine to prevent water and contaminants from getting into the foam underlay of US and AU style carpet assemblies.Once fully dry there is little chance for anything to grow, but every time you clean the carpet you add the water required...I had it in two rentals that when I cleaned the carpets with a really good machine that stains from within the underlay came back up into the carpet.A job planned for a day then turned into three days of using heater fans and living in a sauna while washing carpets :(The same is true if you end up with fresh dirt or such on the carpet while it is still moist underneat - it gets worked ino the carpet and becomes even harder to clean.Is a commercial cleaning the better option?Sadly I have to say this highly depends on your agent/landlord and how much time and money you have.In some areas agents simply ignore the law and demand from you that the carpet looks at least as good as when you moved in.And if old stains you did not know about come from the filthy underlay a rented machine can come close to the cost of getting a commercail team in to do the job once you vacated.Either way you get an invoice for the service and a statement about the condition of the carpets before and after the cleaning.These guys come with a big van and before it fires up with water only the vacuum is used.Imagine a monster sized vacuum cleaner head on steroids that connects to an industrial sized evacuation fan in the van.It literally lifts your carpet from the underlay and leaves nothing loose behind.The actual cleaning and sanitation works the same way only with the big difference that the water is sprayed with pressure through the carpet and into the underlay.Final round is done dry and with vacuum only, means the carpets are dry enough to walk on them without getting wet feet.A complete dry state is usually reached within 2 days during the summer unlike rented machines that keep the humidity in your house up and high for about 2 weeks until back to normal.Main benefit of a commercail cleaning is that you won't get any issues with your agent/landlord unless you damaged the carpets or made them impossible to clean - ever dropped an ink jet printer refill kit? ;)If I do it myself with a reasonably good machine or a rented one : Do I have options for the cleaning solution used?Trust me, I had to figure that one out quickly when I moved into my first rental down here.4 bedrooms, entire house with carpet except for the kitchen and wet areas.They appeared reasonably clean at a first look but when I used a UV flashlight at night the story was shocking....In what must have a room for a baby the carpet looked like a psychedlic art impression under the UV light.The living room was not much better.As a result the rented machine ran out of cleaning fluid quickly.Bought 2 bottles that were supposed to be suffient for the house size but if you need several rounds per room.I "finnished" the former baby room and was one bottle down already.Called it a day and in the dark the UV light showed a slithly fades art impression but nowhere clean :(The shop had a heavy duty cleaning solution but I did not consider it with a price twice as high.Instead I wondered what would make my carpet different from my clothes in my washing machine....So I got a canister of Oxy-cleaner - sometimes called nappy soaking powder, or similar.Just make sure you get one that does not foam up too much.I used a bucket to dissolve a good amount of the powder before filling it into the machine - at about 40°C.What ended in the waste tank when using this cheap alternative looked digusting to say the least!With that encouragement I decided to make a new bucket with some added washing powder, just a tablespoon worth or just over.Washing powder for front loader does not foam up much, unlike the stuff for top loader, so choose wisely.That was, all counted, the forth cleaning round for the former baby room but after this the UV light showed a clean carpet that also had nice spring fresh smell thanks to the washing powder.Using the same appraoch of lots of oxy cleaner and a bit of washing machine powder in semi hot water made cleaning the rest of the house a breeze!When going slow with the machine it was like mowing the lawn, it left a clean path behind.Not all carpets might tolerate oxy cleaners though, especially if they are quite colorful, so do a spot check first if you never used the stuff to clean up a little spill of red wine before.And please keep some of the commercial cleaning fluid at hand to give the machine a quick wash through with it, otherwise the shop might ask you if you used non approved cleaning stuff with it ;)Tips for adjustable cleaning machines....Some of the rented machines come with several possible adjustments you can make.In the most basic form you can adjust the amount water used and how strong the machine sucks.Keep the sucktion as high as possible unless you actually want to pre soak the carpet.The amount of water should be adjusted to the type of carpet not to how dirty it is!You want just enough water to soak the carpet without going into the underlay too much.A clear sign of using too much water is if you waste tank is only half full when the water tank is empty.A few of the really good machines let you adjust the distance between the water outlet and sucktion area.In most cases there pre-set to what, from experience is the most commonly type of carpet in the area.Your might be different though...A greater distance means more time for the cleaning solution to do its job.This works especially well for thicker carpets with amount of water turned down to below 50%.For thin carpets a short distance is better as the water does not have to go deep into the fabric.Here you can even increase the water flow for very dirty areas without risking to soak the underlay too much.In either case you should check the machine before taking it home and if adjustable have the options explained to you in the store.Anything for really bad areas?The entrance area is often subject to whatever our shoes collected outside, especially if you have kids or playful dogs.A bit of oil from the road, some sticky residue of something, dust, small gravel and sand....Vacuum out what comes out first, then use a suitable, not too stiff brush if your vacuum cleaner does not have a rotating brush in the head.Use a spray bottle and prepare a solution of warm water with a bit of washing machine powder and a shot glass worth of methylated spirit.Slightly wet the soiled area with the spray bottle without saturating it.Use the brush to agitate the carpet fibres - preferably directional and with even strokes.If they are not wet in the deeper areas spray a bit more.Again: you don't want to soak it you want to wet it.Give it about 20 minutes on a warm day a bit longer if the insede temps are below 25°C.Check with your hand if the area is still wet, the alcohol should speed up the evaporation here.Before it dries up repeat the process and check with a paper towel if it picks up the stains already.If so then run over the area with cleaning machine.Best results are achieved if you manage to get the fibres wet all the way down with the brush and won't let the area fully dry off again after the spraying.How can I speed up the drying time?The only way to speed things up is heat and airflow.If outside humidty is quite high then you will struggle.Even in the summer times the humidity levels over night can get well into or even over the 80% region.Opening doors and windows then to get the carpet dry won't really help you.Best time to clean your carpets is actually at night because by the time you are done the sun is out and the humity levels much lower.On a good day below 30%.This is true even for the winter times.Put a few fans up and make sure the temperatures are well above the 20°C mark.If in doubt you have to turn the heater on.Once the humidity inside is sky high you open up all windows and doors to have an exchange of air.A few minutes suffice here unless there is wind at all.If it is a hot summer day you can of course just let it all open until the sun goes down again.During colder times pay special attention to cold areas, like your toilet, bathroom or in general areas that won't warm up properly.Even if the room was not cleaned the moisture can accumulate here and cause mold and mildew.If in doubt make sure the ENTIRE house is warm enough until your carpets are fully dry again.A humidity sensor or gauge certainly helps, two are better so you can check inside and outside at the same time.

Topic by Downunder35m