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Refurbishing a bearing

I have the problem at work that we have less than perfect oil pumps - for vegetable oil of the really hot kind.If you ever had to deal with hot vegatable oil you know getting proper sealing is only one problem.The other and much bigger is esterfication - when the oil turns into a resin like goo.Depending on the ongoing temperature and blend of oil this goo is anything from rubber like to really rock hard, like amber without the trapped insects.Recently the manufacturer changed the pump design, so instead of getting my expected spare parts I got a new pump.With that one they fixed the problem of a leaking housing by providing a leaking ceramic seal on the drive shaft LOLNow, instead of having to replace pump/motor shaft seals every 3 months or so I also have failing motors.The hot oil has no issues getting into the front bearing....Can't really get fully sealed bearings that tolerate the heat and justify their price around here, so I needed som ideas.If you need a spanner to turn a motor of just 1/2hp and know the bearing isn't worn out it is time for drastic measures.This trick also works for stainless steel cookware but most won't have a big enough container to submerge them.The "resin" is oil based but with the esterfication it is more a polymer or plastic.Most solvents struggle to even soften the stuff, let alone remove it.The bearing in quesion is a common and in the caged form cheap 6203ZZ - standard on many bikes, alternators and well motors.After scraping off what came off from the outside I pulled it off the shaft.Needless to say I was unable to make it spin or move it by hand - but I had to check once it was off LOLThe cleaning involves dangerous chemicals, so be advised that proper PPE with face shield, gloves and apron is highly recommended!Same for doing it outside for ventilation purposes!I used a magnetic stirrer/hotplate cobo and a stainless steel jug.Filled enough water to allow the bearing to stand upright and fully submerged on the inner wall.For the about 150ml of water I added 3 tablespoons of sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner without the aluminium shavings).Last but not least I set the temp to a cosy 100°C - just under the boiling temp for this mix.After about an hour the water was brownish from the dissolved gunk.All up 3 hours and I decided to clean the bearing, netralise the mix and dispose it in into my collection container.I was able to move the bearing but could feel the rubbery bits moving along on the inside.Another round of 3 hours fixed this and the bearing was spinning freely.Just in case I did one more round with a fresh mix but it showed no visible discoloartion anymore.Wrapped in some paper towel I shook the remaining hydroxide solution out and let it sit for a few minutes in alcohol-.This step was repeated several times to ensure all the corrosive mix is out and that the bearing will dry quickly.How to re-grease a caged or even sealed bearing??I don't have a suitable adapter for a high pressure grease gun...But I do have a hotplate and a vacuum pump....Long story short the grease was heated in a small tuna can (I ate the tuna, sorry)´, the bearing added and fully covered.Into the vaccum chamber, pump on...First round quite some air came out and formed bobbles that left some open channels.Could not heat the grease to go fully liquid as it started to smell at just over 200°C :(Two round later however I could not see anythng happening anymore when the vacuum was at max.I hate the cleaning but at least after that was done the bearing was back to its old glory.If you have bearings that are really hard to get and that are just dry and a bit dirty inside then this trick might help you.So why does the sodium hydroxide work so well?In a concentrated solution and hot it is a potent agent - do not let any aluminium get near it!Nothing in a bearing however is affected by it and it transform most oils and greases into a soap like thing that helps with the removal of the remaining stuff.The "cooking" also makes sure there is little to no oxygen left in the water, so no rust will form unless you forget the alcohol cleaning.Once you see how easy you can shake the hydroxide solution out of the bearing to get it dry and even better with the alcohol you realise why caged bearings are no good in a wet or dirty environment.

Topic by Downunder35m  


how are fluid bearings made?

I was looking at fluid filled bearings and wanted to try and make one i just cant understand how they are filled and how they can rotate without leaking any ideas on how they are sealed?

Question by sharlston    |  last reply


How to seal a system containing ethanol, but low friction?

Still working on my solar device (in Copenhagen now), and it's coming along fairly nicely. Should hopefully have a full instructable in a couple of weeks. However, I'm having problems at the moment trying to keep the thing water tight, where the axle leaves the system, taking out the rotational motion. I'm using the bearing housing from an old bike wheel (photos to come) and I've got it sealed well where it's attached to wall of the container, but the ethanol is flowing pretty freely through the bearings themselves. I need it not to. I could use something like an O ring to seal the axle, but friction is a big issue. I wanted to pack the whole axle and bearing housing with grease, but grease dissolves in ethanol. Solutions? Is there anything grease like which isn't soluble in alcohol? Salt, maybe? Cheers all. (Nearly there...)

Topic by SolarFlower_org    |  last reply


How to seal unused drain pipe?

The short version: I have an old PVC sewer drain pipe that comes up out of a concrete slab floor.  Under the floor, the other end of the pipe connects to other drain pipes in the house, so before I cover the area with more carpeting, I'd like to seal that pipe off permanently to avoid any possible leakage in the future.  I'd like to avoid disturbing the concrete floor, if possible.  I'd like to put some kind of plug in the pipe and glue it into place with common PVC primer and cement, but I don't know if there's any kind of plug made for this purpose. Any suggestions? The details: I've taken down a non-load-bearing wall in my house.  The wall used to carry pipes for water (coming down from the second floor above), natural gas (embedded in the concrete slab floor), and sewer (also embedded in the slab).  These were all used for a poorly-positioned laundry room.  I've easily sealed the copper pipes for the water and natural gas, but I'm left wondering what to do with this two-inch sewer drain pipe. At first, I thought of covering it with a PVC cap, but to do that, I would need to chip away part of the concrete floor far enough down so the cap wouldn't be above the floor surface.  I would also need to be careful not to break the pipe as I chipped away the concrete.  If I were successful with that and then glued a cap on at the right height, then I would need to fill the space around it with a small amount of concrete.  Besides not wanting to damage the pipe, I'm sure I'd make a real mess of the carpet nearby. Then, I thought, rather than gluing a cap over the *outside* of the pipe, maybe there's some kind of cap that I can glue on the *inside* of it istead.  However, I don't know of any such pipe fitting.  It seems that all the home improvement stores around here sell fittings that go on the outside of the pipe.  So I'm looking for creative ways to plug up the end of this pipe. The other end of this pipe connects to other sewer pipes in the house that are currently in use.  I thought of possibly pouring a cement-like substance into the pipe to seal it, but I can't guarantee that it wouldn't go into the rest of the system and cause a disastrous plug for the whole thing. PS:  Excuse the orientation of the photos I've attached to this posting.  They looked fine on my phone, but when I upload them to Instructables, the site insists on rotating them. PPS: I do plan to cut the PVC pipe off even with the floor just before sealing it.  I'll use my trusty Dremel Multi-Max for that.

Topic by lsloan0000    |  last reply


Remove axles from jogging stroller wheels?

I have a pair of twenty inch wheels from a jogging stroller with "sealed" bearings that I would like to remove the axles from. I've loosened or removed all of the nuts including the locking nuts from both sides but the axles are still firmly seated/connected to something inside. They came from the frame/carcass of a stroller similar to this, but they are not the quick release.

Topic by MeanUncleBob    |  last reply


How to stop oil going into a motor from the attached pump?

I am fighting a little war with some oil pumps.Attached to a 1/2HP motor the construction is quite simple.To prevent leaking there is a spring loaded oil seal between pump and motor.But this seal is never 100% if you deal with 180°C hot vegetable oil....At these temps the stuff is literally thinner than water and sooner or later finds a way out.Main problem I am facing is the drying of the vegetable oil.Over time it turns intoa really hard resin.But before that it manages to creep all the way into the motor bearing in the front part of the motor.It drives out the grease and slowly replaces it with drying resin util the whole thing seizes.Rebuilding is a true pain in the back as it is a 180V DC motor with build in rectifier and regulator to run on 220V AC mains.Things I tried so far:Adding a good amount of high temperature grease bewtween oil seal and motor housing - only a marginal longer service time was achieved.Making a custom sleeve to go over the motor shaft that is glued onto it - worked well, or so I thought until I realised the silicone oil content in the oil slowly destroys all gues I tried so far.Adding a shim disk right on top of the bearing - this worked best so far and almost doubled the time until the motor failed. Downside is that it takes me over 4 hours to fully rebuild a motor just to get said dik in and I have no replacements anymore.It was suggested to me to set the back of the motor slightly higher than the front so the oil would not go anywhere near the bearing.This I tried to implement about 8 weeks ago and as the motor got noisy last week I took it all apart for a service again.Despite the motor mounted at an angle of about 5° the oil still creeped past the shim disk and into the bearing.So I did some simple tests with the hot oil and indeed it forms a slowly creeping film tha travels upwards on a shaft.I guess the rotation helps here as well to spread the drops around.And yes, last time I used "fully sealed" bearing with an build in cover and still it fails :(I would love to try something flexible but long lasting to seal the bearing against the rest.Something in the region of a rubbery stuff that can be applied like a sealant.But hard enough to survive a few weeks of shaft rotations.Are there any really sealed bearings available?Bearings that, for example would be fine working submerged in liquid without any liquid being able to enter?It is clearly a desing fault of the machine to make money through spare parts but that's not the point here.I can not replace the pump as it is an intergral part of other things attached.And not really that easy to find a pump capable of dealing with hot oil anyway.Is there any grease available that does not turn into a liquid at these high temps and would it be possible to get ito into a bearing?Running out of ideas here guys, so feel free to throw in whatever comes to mind even if it seems odd!I just need a way to keep highly viscous, boiling hot oil from entering a bearing ;)

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Reduce steel tube diameter by 0.3mm Answered

I am trying to make a DIY CNC machine, using linear rails and the expert advice in the many awesome instructables out there on this topic.  I hit my first roadblock, and I need some help/advice please... The 16mm steel tubes I ordered for the sliding rails wouldn't fit in the 16mm linear slide bearings SCS16LUU that I ordered, they are ever so slightly too big. With a lot of force I could get the rail in the bearing, but it wouldn't slide without extreme force - certainly not the smooth sliding motion it's supposed to be! I've probably ruined the bearings by forcing it in, but I'm not worried about that so much right now (I have spare bearings). I broke out the digital callipers, and the rail diameter measured 16.3mm - that's .3mm more than expected, and more than can fit in the 16.0mm bearings. So now I need to reduce the steel rails by 0.3mm. I have only hand tools at my disposal, and no experience accurately reducing steel rod diameter. I guess another alternative is increasing the slide bearing diameter, but these are sealed bearing units and difficult to get at. Does anyone have any ideas ?  Would it be easier to order new steel? Please let me know any thoughts on this, I'm desperate here.  Thanks in advance,

Question by srah1    |  last reply


viva 2008 holden head repaired an fixed a bent valve 4 weeks later lost all compretion in all 4 cylenders ?

Why would a recently repaired head on a holden viva 2008 4 weeks after a bent valve  was repaired head reconditioned tested an seals bearings timing belt water pump etc was all fix an seemed to be running great 3 weeks later  i notice the car was running a bit rich on fuel then a ticking sound started an the engine died 1hr before that i noticed my temp was getting hot just before all the issues started id put 3 ltrs of water in to find it had gone already after the car died had my mechanic come out to check it all 4 chambers had no compression at all ?

Question by HDTV1    |  last reply


Challenge: Can You Beat This Scary Turbine PumpkinCutter Halloween Project ?

This Halloween project is so scary that the inventor (myself) felt shock and awe at it. I was genuinely scared at the running of this machine...and rightly so! So I figured I would spread the scariness to all who see this machine, to set the mood for a DIY Halloween... The machine in question is what I have named the Tesla CD Turbine. The CD Turbine is magnetically-coupled to a Skilsaw blade. (What I teasingly call the PumpkinCutter Attachment). The Tesla CD Turbine uses recycled CD's and neodymium magnets for rotating parts...nothing else. It can rev up to thousands of rpm. It has no bearings or seals and is magnetically coupled to implements. It runs on either compressed air or water pressure. But hey, put on a magnetically-coupled Skilsaw blade, run it at thousands of rpm, and you have a very dangerous PumpkinCutter! (Instructable is ready...if you dare!) Beat that for a wild, scary, hi-tech, cheap and recycled Halloween project!!

Topic by mrfixitrick    |  last reply


How can I get oil into this motor?

Hey there guys, long time no see! I have a very special request, I want everyone to take a look and offer their opinions. Here's the situation: I recently aquired a 50" rear projection DLP Tv, quite a sweet deal and it still works... for the most part.. The sad thing is, the color wheel is starting to fail inside of it, for those of you who don't know what one of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Light_Processing#The_color_wheel_.22rainbow_effect.22 these are. This tv still actually works fine, but the motor is getting louder and louder, and sometimes the colors go out of sync and I have to restart the tv. It'll cost me $150 at least to replace the wheel, but really there's no need for it, the motor just need some oil! So anyways, I've had it apart before and oiled the motor, tried to squeeze some in the motor housing and in the divot on the backside where I presume is a bearing, but it appears sealed, as the video will show, as the whole outside moves, there is no visible moving parts of the shaft or the bearings :S So what I want to know, is anyone familiar with this type of motor and how I can pull it apart/oil it (I've done it with computer fans, why can't I do it with this). Worst come to worst, I'd even try drilling a small hole with my dremel that I could inject oil inside with? (Btw I have 3-1 oil, which I think should suffice enough). I was even thinking of getting a container so the motor can sit in oil without the glass having to, and just let it soak for a week or something, Ideas people??? Video:

Question by Punkguyta    |  last reply


Waterglass or Liquid Glass

Back when I was a kid I had a little chimistry set and part of it were instructions on how to create your own chmical garden in a jar.The metal salts only "grow" in the areas with lots of water while being cured into somthing more solid when it contacts the waterglass.Quite nice trick for kids of all ages.Another and commercail use is as a binder for refractory uses.On a home level you can just crush up some vermiculite and perlite to create solid and light weight fire bricks or plate - with just waterglass as the binder.Although for this purpose you want a higher amount of cat litter in your mix.Cat litter???Yes, cat litter is the same as silica beads but it dissolves much easier in the reaction with sodium hydroxide, or drain cleaner.60g of crystal cat litter, 80g of sodium hydroxide, 100ml of water.Mix it carefully and without getting too much sodium hydroxide in the mix to quickly and you have a jar of watergalls - easy...But there is other uses too, like you could see in my Ible about making your own ferrite.In some areas it is still used as a flame retardant or to fireproof materials that otherwise would combust too quickly.Wood that was vacuum treated with waterglass and fully dried turns into a rock like substance that looks beautiful once polished.And it has a really hard time burning...As it cures like glass with just little heat it was used in Fukushima by injecting it into the soil to form a barrier for the radioactive water.The heat from the radiactive water helped curing the mix...You can even use it to repair your cracked potter and glassware..Holes or leaks in your exhaust system? What a pain if you are too short on money to replace the parts.So a lot of us pay quite a bit of money for repair putties and bandages to seal the lak at least for long enough to consider a real fix.Did you know that all these putties and such are nothing but waterglass, glass fibres and filler material?The later often just very fine sand.Easy to make you own in bucket loads for less than what the repair kit costs LOLA total pain in the behind is if your old car gets a water leak.Usually it is a seal on the pump, a hole in the radiator or a tiny crack.One to to fix it for a while is to add an egg white to your cold radiator water or coolant.Then go for a drive and the egg white will boil off and dry where it comes into contact with air - outside you problem.Works remarkably well and won't harm any part of your engine either.Only downside is that it usually only lasts for a few days, being a natural product and such.Some people though claim they got weeks or even months out of such a cheap fix.A btter and more permanent way to seal such tiny leaks is to use waterglass mixed into the cooling system.It will form a lasting glass like seal that has no issiues under high heat or pressure.It even fixes your leaking head gasket if the water goes not get into the oil jet.Oil getting into the water might still still be fixable with waterglass.Water in the oil means the waterglass could enter the oil and if that happens you end with glass in your moving engine bits.A sure way to kill every engine and used to properly destroy them for recyling purposes by law in some countries.Waterglass is added to the engine oil and then it runs until hot enough for the water to evaporate.At this point the engine and all bearings just permantly seize.Waterglass added to cement provides a good barrier for oil and other liquids, making a spill cleanup much easier as the spill can't really penetrate the concrete.My personal favourite though is to use it for the easy removal of unwanted paint gretings on walls and such.You know how some kids think that a spray can with paint and a clean wall make artwork...If said wall is "painted" with a a mix of waterglass and sugar the spray paint will stick as good as before.But then you come with a pressure washer and clean it off in a few minutes and without any traces left on the wall.Sadly you need to re-apply the protective coating before the kid with the spray can comes back next night...What are your uses for liquid glass?

Topic by Downunder35m  


1st time robot. Too ambitious?

Hello All, I have recently started an ambitious project. There will certainly be much learning along the way.  But it is too ambitious? The goal is to build a bot that can be controlled remotely, to aid in the detection, marking, and ultimate removal of unexploded ordinance in Cambodia (in this first application).  Though I have never built a robot of any type, I am quickly learning the basics, but would like ultimate beginner advice if anyone had any.  If anyone would like details on the project, PM me.  It's really a lot for a forum post... If there are any Veterans or military buffs out there, I could really use other first hand accounts of experiencing UEO. Through generous donation and aquisition, I have come cross an electric wheelchair, and many parts needed for a former "Battle-Bot".  Battle-bot turns peace-maker.  I love it!  The motors are Bosche, 24V and ~750watts.  Included were DC motor (high amp) speed controls, and 2x 12v 26A sealed lead-acid batteries.  Very very excited to really dig in.  I lack a quality track or model of a good track to use for traction, etc.  Anyone know of any good and sturdy RC tank tracks I could look at for design or actual construction? Though I began to construct my own track out of sheet metal and various materials available (it actually turned out kinda ok), I don't intend on reinventing the wheel, as it were.  3" took me almost 2 hours. Will also be incorporating a ~3'-4' rotating and articulating arm.  Trying to keep its weight to under ~30lbs.  The wheelchair frame is very strong and moddable, Ws thinking of using a lazy susan type bearing, but I'm not sure I could find one rated for that weight for an affordable price.  Any suggestions? Thanks for checking this out.  Again, if you want more details, I'm happy to share my plans.  Just PM me. This is being designed 100% open-source, and 100% documented with a video and written journal in order to be easily duplicated.   Constructive criticism is NOT personal criticism! Huck

Topic by huck alexander    |  last reply


How to Fix a Broken Pipe Inside a Wall

Here's a quick photo-essay about my Sunday afternoon: An outside hose bibb was leaking around the handle, so I decided to replace it. * I couldn't remove the old hose bibb from a piece of galvanized pipe, so I removed the pipe too, and found what looked like a brass fitting inside the wall. * Once I had installed a new length of pipe and hose bibb, I turned the house water back on, and heard it leaking inside the wall. Thinking I hadn't tightened it enough, I really beared down and gave the bibb/pipe combo a good crank to seal the connection in the wall. That's when I felt a pipe inside the wall break, and heard water start blasting inside the wall. *Fortunately, I have access to the other side of the wall through the garage, so I cut a hole and installed a valve upstream of the break. I didn't have time to do a full repair and re-route the pipe outside, so that's where I've left it for now. It took three separate trips to Home Depot -- represented above by *'s -- which seems about average for me and plumbing disasters. Things I could have learned: try to remove the broken item before going to get parts. That would have saved one trip to get the additional length of pipe. I don't think I've ever soldered copper pipes in a non-emergency setting. Last time, our hot water heater failed the day before my parents arrived for a week's stay. If you'd like to do your own plumbing, I strongly recommend learning to solder on a project that doesn't require the water to the entire house to be off.Thanks to zachninme for taking photos!2008-08-31 Update: Since I know everyone is dying to know how this turned out, I've add a few more pictures. With the right tools and parts in hand, I replaced everything from the broken copper pipe out to the hose bid, and removed the valve inside the wall. The tricky part was mounting a brass 1/2 NPT female to copper 1/2 elbow. Originally, this piece was nailed into a stud and then the copper was soldered on before the walls were finished. I didn't want to make a big hole in the stucco on the exterior wall and I couldn't safely get my torch into the confined space, so I soldered some copper elbows onto this brass elbow and then mounted it with machine screws coming in from behind through the stud (screw heads on the inside where I could access them through the hole in the drywall, and bolts on the other side with the brass elbow where I positioned and tightened them by feel).Having opened a plumbing battle on this front, I decided to fix a bunch of other plumbing problems around the house, which I'll write about shortly in an Instructable.

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply


Spare parts overpricing - anyone familiar with the concept?

I recently had the joy of getting one of the machines I use at work fixed. We already knew a valve was no longer working but I did not expect the source to be a motor with a gearbox on it. I kept the faulty part to check the internals - just out of curiosity. Now mind you that after little online I sear I found all the components of this drive: 1. A Mabuchi RS-555 motor - priced at under $10 2. A 3 stage planetary gearbox with a sproket for a chain drive - all up and in top quality around $250 with much cheaper options available... 3. A mounting plate - just an aluminium square with 4 holes in it. 4. A standard connector plug with 6cm of cable. Even if I consider that there are only 2 manufacturers for this sort of machinery wordwide I fail to see how a price of very close to $1000 is justified for this part. But let's not brag about politics but design instead: The gearbox is totally over-engeneered for the task and could deliver about 15 times the torque required to moved the valve even if it would be blocked. And against the technicians assurance the drive failed because of us forcing it to be used to often (ROFL) I had to realise the culprit is the design and way it is put together. Despite being all hardened steel there was basically no grease left inside the gearbox, I was not even able to turn it from the motor side by hand! As it is a fully sealed unit I highly doubt the grease just disappeared because most of the metal parts were bone dry, the rest only had a smidge of grease hard like wax left on it. And although the motor has a similar laser engraving than a real Mabuchi motor of the same type it has no ball bearings and judging by the free space bushes of only 4mm lenght, maybe less. One broke off, the other still had about 2.5mm left. I could argue the dry gearbox caused a constant overload of the motor, which is evident by the thermal marks on the rotor but I never had a motor with te brushes broken off the metal clip holding them. The next day I reported my findings to the boss and he said he might have another one somewhere from a previous repair and wanted me to check it as well. Needless to say the faul was identical. This system is being replaced on average every 18 months at a total cost of close to $1500. One third of this is for labour, other spares and general service but the amount for the motor drive is always a sting. Now to really funny part: After my boss had a long and frustrating phone call with our service company it turns out we not allowed to use any parts other then what the manufacturer supplies. Ok, truth told, we are of course allowed to do so but if the service company notices non-genuine parts they have to report it and this automatically cancels our service agreement with the manufacturer. Only one company produces the stuff, only one company in the country has the service contract with them - you see the circle? LOL I found a supplier that could offer a similar motor drive that would only require the original mounting plate and sproket. Priced at just $300 and with a 2 year warranty it sounds tempting especially if you consider that is only for the gearbox and the motor has 3 years. Of cours we won't do it and have to suck it up, so just for laughs a few other spares for this machine that I found in old bills and their price on Ebay for the same part or one of better quality on the right: Various microswitches:                                  25 - 88                       0.20 - 4 Temperatur sensor:                                              129                       1.20 Temp sensor with 30cm heat proof cable:       149                       3.50 Stainless steel sheet metal screw:                        6.50                 0.40 if ordered more than 10 Main switch (simple flip):                                        99                      1.20 Stainless steel screening fliter:                             114                      8.30 And that is just for the mechanical and electrical stuff, if I would go into the plumbing with little stainless steel parts and ruber seals some here might end up with sore muskles from all the laughing... Do have similar equippment that could be serviced better for a fraction of the cost but can't because of similar restrictions? Mind you that I am not talking about warranty stuff here as the machine is far over this already... If someone wants to see how much damage a broken off peice of carbon will cause in the long run let me know. But be aware that I already cleaned away most of the black dust before you complain it looks too clean - I did not want that stuff everwhere ;)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Ancient technologies revisted - flying machines

With ancient "toys" and "decoration" showing someone who is NOT an archeologist things like planes, helicopters, jets and even "flying saucers" we can't help but wonder...If we see a little kid making a crude cryon drawing of a plane we have no objections at all that it IS a plane.If a little kid watched a nice pirate movie the resulting cryon ship still is a ship for us.And well, if the kid watched Star Trek a lot and draws a space ship we again agree it is just that.So why, if the same kids say they see a plane in an ancient trinket are we told it is anything BUT a plane?Take the famous planes the Maya culture presented us with so many times and that even build at a larger scale to show it is actually capable of proper flight.Archeologist and those involved with the official exploration of the past state it is an insect, some bird or just a fantasy creation.This and much more happens over and over again.What one side clearly sees as evidence that advanced technology existed long before we even had steel, the other side clearly sees it as something impossible.Artefacts showing os animals, plants and such however are always just that and everyone can agree - funny isn't?You have to wonder why a culture that can create delicate "toys" looking like the real thing would go and create something born out of fantasy.They did not do this, it a new trade of humanity called deception.What they drew, what they created what their myths talk about is all based on things they saw and experienced.It just makes no sense that they "invented" a helicopter for fun - they did not have the fantasy or brains to come with the idea of a helicopter...Then why are there no remains, no wrecks, not even spare parts to be found anywhere in the world?It is a defence argument often used by "real" experts of the field...So let's take a look at this statement and conundrum behind it.What we found in metal tools, toys, artefacts and such from ancient times is in almost all cases so badly corroded that it becomes impossible to make sense of it.A few cm of something that might have been a few meters square won't tell you what it was when it was made.On the other hand we found lots of copper and bronze tools - metals that can form a natural layer of protection that lasts for a very long time.Still even those, unless found in sealed places, are often so corroded that you need a bit of fantasy to imagine the original shape.At least the experts here won't tell us that something that looks like a hammer was actually a fork....If we try to imagine the materials that would have been used to build flying machines modern scientists all agree that modern metals must have been used as neither copper, nor brinze would work due to their weight and softness.Natural materials are out of the question as well because we never found evidence of something as simple a the Wright brothers or Hudini's plane...Like these old folks skipped balloon, gliders and all to go directly to modern jets and such...Today we use quite a few fancy materials in our flying machines.Composites made from plastic and aluminium, blow expanded titanium turbine blades, high quality steel for bearings and drive shafts...And one thing we only know too well: all these materials suffer badly from fatigue and wear and tear.We constantly need to replace worn parts to keep the thin airworthy...To back up our real archeologists and their claims or to show how all these alien nuts are wrong some tests were performed on modern alloys and plastics.It is the same process that checks how materials age in an accelearted way that helps engeneers to create better things.The best example of this technique you might have heard of is "biodegradeable" - found on many packing materials these days.Everything from sun light over moisture to bacteria and possible by products is added and "accelerated"- if the bag is gone after the set time it is deemed biodegradable.The results for our metal and composite tests however were not that conclusive and accurate.It is a different thing if instead of a few years you are supposed to simulated a few thausand years of exposure to the elements, having a jungle growing over it and all.At least they could agree that unless preserved in some sealed chamber or the perfect "soil" that turned into oxygen deprived and non acidic mud it would not take long for things to disappear fully.3000 to 5000 years only and there would be nothing of a fancy flying machine - if materials we are familiar today would have been used.Many of these cultures though are older, much older, so there wouldn't a realistic chance to find any "advanced" technology anywhere.But in hind sight of recent finding on the sea bed another round of this time just theortical agin tests were performed.If left undisturbed a flying machine, like a sunken cargo ship would start to form a reef in shallow waters and be overgrown by coral, sediments and more.On the hand, if left in deep enough water only corrosion by chemical means would be an issue and the deeper you go the better everything is preserved.For such a case it was estimated that identifiable remains could still be found up to 10.000 years later.Our biggest problem is to go down into the deep oceans to explore all those regions that were dry land before our sea levels started to rise.Why is this part of archeology so controversial and gets basically no funding at all?Considering the billions we waste on military and space programs it actually makes no sense.Same for the refusal to fully admit that ruins uner the sea that are over 40.000 years old can only mean we had a thriving human civilisation long before we are supposed to have been cave dwelling primitives.It is almost entirely up to a few private investors to cough up a few bucks to allow the exploration of the deep sea.And if you exclude minerals, vulcanic stuff and finding new bacteria and animals living down there you get next to nothing.Openly admitting that we were flying around like we drive our cars today at times when we did not even know steel is just too outragous.Would be like this dude a few hundred years ago trying to convince the world that earth rotates around the sun and not the other way around...We all know how that ended.Just imgine this for a moment:You invent and create something that you know is totally new, totally awesome and you wasted years of your life to finally finnish it and make it work.You would be proud as.And rightfully so!But then comes some weird dude and tells you "Nice, quite crude and badly designed but a good start."You would be furious whether you like to admit it or not - you just got insulted for your life's work...And to top it all up he comes along a few days to show you how he did it properly long before you even made your first technical drawings...Would be massive blow to your confidence and you would start to question a lot of things...Now imagine it would not just be you and what you invented and acomplished but in fact literally everything humankid ever invented and thought to be the best of everything....In a sick sense it is actually logical to prevent this moment of enlightenment to ever hit humanity.We can look at ancient artefacts, drawings and even entiry stories hammered in stone (or vibrated into it to be precise).We can see the reality but chose to turn a blind eye on it.What is even funny if you think about it is what sort of delays this refusal caused when it came to translation ancient writing.Not really that easy to create a totally different context just to avoid including the word "plane" or "space suit" for example.Entire sections of ancient texts still have "exclusion zones" for this very reason.Unoffical prove is out there that we in fact not only found ancient crafts but that we also managed to re-create at least what we could understand.But then again the same would be true if we trust our alien theorists.Almost every single day people report some sort of UFO in the skies, some even claim to have seen them coming out of lakes and the ocean.99% of these sightings are anything but alien craft.But it seems easier to post a video stating UFO's flying over.... Why bother to check if some rocket test, launch or similar was done around the time in this area?Why bother to check if a satellite was turned off for a controlled destruction in the atmosphere?And none of these reports are taken down or corrected with the right info when the truth comes out - you have to search the comments for it...In recent years though it seem the entire approach to keeping certain secrets secret has changed.Even NASA made old videos and images available to the general public showing "controversial" optical "artefacts".Some former astronauts went as far are providing images and videos they took with their own cameras and added what they thought about it at the time and till today.The US even finally openly admitted to have been doing "UFO research" for decades.Research in this context however means exploring or trying to, what these weird things might be that seem to follow and watch us everywhere.A bit shy of admitting they examined some of these flying objects but a complete reversal of the statements and approach we we told for so long.And then there is all this "new" technology we implement now, stealth technology, trust vector control, A.I. supported flight controls, three dimensional and real time computer simulations of the battlefield - the "soldier" could be on a different continent when his tank got hit by an RPG...Some claim the advances of these technologies were just logical and a result of theoretical research come to life once we had the tech and materials for it.These official claims however can also be read like this:Theoretical research includes reverse engineering and developing the required technology and materials is a logical step to re-create the reverse engineered object....Isn't it funny in this context that basically ALL these fance "inventions" have a trace that ends in a secret labs and projects?Only once NASA or the Militara was done with it and happy outside companies and people got access to parts of it.And this pratice is still happening every single day.Another, for some, strong hint is the rejuventation of the space race.But for this conundrum I will do another episode ;)

Topic by Downunder35m  


Ancient technologies revisited - Ancient math

You can not have technology without math a fact not too many people would deny.At a certain level you just need a common ground to get from an adie to reality, even if it just a simple measuring tape.When it comes to math we have two major players in the game today.The metric system and then what the other people use ;)Jokes aside they both have their merits and they both come from similar origins.What they both lack though is literally anything that is not a straight line.As soon as it comes to something round, harmonic, free flowing or just with a complex geometry we utterly fail.It is like running aorund the barn, climing up a rope to squeeze through a thight hole to get inside.While all you had o do in reality is to open the damn barn door to get in ;)Ancient cultures used different way to tell the time of the day or day of the year.And when it comes to defining lenght that had everything but a common ground.For some it was how long some piece of wood was.So you want a plank of "4 meters" but order from someone out of town - his "4 meters" might be less than half of you need.Despite all these local differences though they managed to build and create with astounding accuracy.To calculate the movement of your solar system and other stars you need quite complex math - today.In ancient times people were able to just this without a compunter or wasting weeks or endless calculations....How did they do it?Nicola Tesla had a glimps of how nature really works.Despite never making any real documentations to create his invention he made one big exception.The circle of math.A simple thing on paper with lots of lines, numbers and spirals.You can find several copies and remakes with your favourite search engine, I prefer Duckduckgo.He used this circle to promote new ways of doing math in lots of schools and universites.With great success I might add.Sadly all this ended when he was discredited and died as a poor man.So, what then is so different between our modern math and ancient of nature's math?We are based on the decimal system mean we use 10 numbers for everything.Our first computer only knew two - 0 and 1.A bit later they used not just bits but also bytes and words- 8, 16, 32,64, ...If you break all this down then it comes down to evolution in terms of how in netures you go from one single cell to a complete human being.One make two, two make four, four become 8, 8 become 16, then 32, 64, 128 - you see the computer here and why it is more efficient that the math we learn in school?A computer does not count to 10 and start over...Our current math uses shortcuts and walkarounds to get to the finish.It made a lot of sense in the early days but has certainly long reached the limits of use.If we understood that a computer needs to go from a single bit to a byte like nature then what about the rest of the numbers nature uses and that most likely our ancient cousins used?To really explain it I need to involve our alien friends again.If we agree they would be resonsible for all things from UFO's, over technology and down to building entire cities:Someone would have to know about it and most like have or had contact.Ancient texts more than confirm all this through myths and legends.Now imagine you would like to influence the evolution of an entire race ove thausands of years.How could you make sure they reach a very high level but will never be able to "break the seventh seal" to reach your level?Of course in a way that this civilisation would never find out or consider...You limit its capablility to understand math!Despite having the solution right in front of our eyes from a single atom, over a ceel multiplication down to sunflowers and vortexes - we only march in 10 digit steps and won't ever consider to just dance aorund with the music playing...It really makes no sense to use 10 numbers!The day has 24 hours - 2 times 12, 12 hours for the DAY 12 for the NIGHT part.Eggs come in a dozen or 12 again.Not even the moon is "digital" and ancient calendars were highly accurate while our way of defining days weeks and such resulted in a total chaos requiring complex calculations.In ancient times it was all beased on how nature does it.The gregorian calendar changed this and if you check for the "excuse" why we suddenly had for forget all about lunar calendars you might be surprised.Fair enough but how could you convince an entire civilisation to forget all about real math and learn something way to complicated?USE YOUR FINGERS! ;) Yes, by pure coincidence our math system is based on how mand FINGERS we have.Not hands, not eays, not legs, fingers.Literally any other part of our body would have made more sense, at least you can get from 2 to 4 then to 8 and soon realise you are one with nature again.Simple, genius, unbreakable - show me one little kid in school that never tried to use the finger to do help with math....How many number does nature use then?Just nine.And for good reason there is no zero as we know it.The scam works so perfectly because all that was required was to teach us to not jump from 9 back to 1 but instead to add a zero to make it 10.Every time we go past the nine in the sequence we add a 0 and once that is done we add a diget and make it a 1 again.As a result and with no escape from it our math creates numbers that go bigger and bigger until they are too complex to handle with just our brains - we get the help of a computer using a similar flawed system that is at least faster.Nine numbers only - how do you use them?You can't apply our understanding of math to a system that does not know zero as we do.But I will try anyway in the best way I can.Take the computer sequence again: 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256, 512, 1024, 2048, 4096, ...There is a thing often just refered to being a party trick.It is the simplification of a multi digit number into a single diget one.In reality though a reamins of our knowledge how math really worked.You simply add all digets and if you still get more than a single one you repeat until you have just one.Let's try to reverty our embryo back to how nature created it b using the above numbers for this simple trick:1, 2, 4, 8, 7 (1+6), 5, 1, 2, 4, 8, 7, 5, 1, 2, 4, 8, 7, 5, 1, 2, 4, 8, 7, 5....I guess you see the pattern by now ;)Try for yourself!It always breaks down to 1 2 4 8 7 5 ! And if we have no real zero then there are only three numbers left: 3, 6, 9 .If create a circle and instead of going from 12 to 12 like on a clock you go from 9 to 9 you have the basic circle model.From the 9 on top go to 12345678.A pie with 9 slices if you need helping marking, but you can just devide the circle in 40° pieces.Draw a triangle between the 3, 6 an 9 - it should almost look like a sideview of a pyramid.Now draw lines in sequenc with the remaining numbers.Go from the 1 to the 2, then to the 4 and so on.Looks rather symmetrical with a "twist, like butterfly wings if you like.You can perform all basic math with just this circular concept.You only need to know how 3, 6 and 9 have other "meanings" and that there is no zero.Too bad we are no longer wired to think like this - but you could learn it (again).Higher math seems to be impossible though.Oh! Why no zero you ask?Well nature does not know "off" or nothing - all start with a single thing and in the end goes back to just that.Nothing is wasted...If you now would try to implemt PI into our circle we could try it dead simple.We multiply it with the numbers of the circle and add the result as a vector from the center through the corresponding number.If we would now connect the end points of these vectors and interpolated the stuff between them we get a very nice spiral.As we have no zero we also have no 10 and seem stuck at 9...But 10 times PI over the 1 still gives us the right result...In either case you could now enlarge or shrink this sprial any equal (x-y) way you like and the only thing changing the true result is the lenght of the vector.For a circle you don't care if the diameter is 2 meters or 5 kirdigs, you only need to know the vector - the definition of lenght relates to it, PI....Ok, but how could you do harmonic things like the change from day to night or a soundwave?Look to asia and simply draw the Yin Yang symbol insde your circle.Preferably rotated so the two small circle are orientated vertically.Going back to our simplification of the large numbers but using the remaining there:They are very special as they from a triangle - the proximation of a cricle with just three lines.Take any multiple of these numbers and you always come back to them through the above decimal intergation process.And it perfectly goes along with our nature.(Keep in mind real values like time or meter are just vectors here!)12 hours come down to the number 3, 24 hours turn into 6 18 hours into 9...If noon is 9 you would have a pretty nifty way to tell time precisely and the 3 and 6 would mark the turning points - or amplitude reversal....And if you now dare to color in the Yin Yang symbol slightly differently you end up with two sine waves that cancel each other out ;)Use Yin and Yang at the right enlargement (vector for lenght, time) and turn it to the correct number(s) (rotational vector) and you could do complex calculations with pen and paper that are accurate enough to build a ball bearing from the drawings and measurements - and bearings have tight tolerances.Go further and explore how our natural sequences like the Fabanucci Sequence or just the golden ration can be placed correctly in the circle and how it changes and simplifies relationships ;)Suddenly it becomes clear why our know laws of physics have such simple equations to explain them.The all deal with just linear things.Becomes painfully clear when you try to do math for a pendulum.Put down to the pure basics it eventuall becomes clear that weight does not matter for a pendulum (ideal), not even how great the amplitude is.The time it needs for a full swing only depends on gravity and lenght of the rope.....A force and vector....We did realise this at some stage at university but only after going painfully long hours of calculating all sorts of things to distract us from this simple fact.With the claim that it is needed to fully understand it LOLWe can't find the missing laws of physiscs because our math is flawed and does not allow for harmony and resonance - it is not a circle, it is a line getting longer and longer.If we do find them we will either re-invent math or use the most complex formulas you can think of to get results.Ok then, but why was this math secret hidden from us?Once you realise that you have 6 numbers representiong "evolution" or "progress" and 3 numbers that define how it all cycles in sync and harmony you can help but wonder how far this system goes.Nature and the universe is everywhere from sub atomic size to our galaxy...What drives life or evolution? Energy....Which means 3. 6. and 9 stand for the three universal forms of energy and their sum at the same time.Remember! NO ZERO, Remember! Yin Yang, no end, no beginning, always equal, always opposite.Real power comes from REAL knowledge and what you make with it.Is there an easy way to re-learn this forgotten math so it can be used for things as complex as calculating how a comet travels through space?Not really as we would first have to forget almost everything we know about math in terms of calculations with numbers result in more numbers.What we can do thoug is open our eyes and observe.Nature is all around us and we just need to learn again that nature knows it best.When you see a pretty flower look behind the flower, see the symmetry and harmony in the design.See how the number of petals relate or simply start counting with sunflowers to decipher why this design of seed placement is so perfect.The more you really see the more you will understand how it fits together using numbers.We had huge cities long before we lived in caves if we can accept that humanity is much older than what we think we won't reject true math anymore...

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