Question by top.boy | last reply
Search for sealed lead acid in Topics
So me and papa have been working on farm equipment and an electric golf cart (and I had issues with my jeep cranking over, with a presumably bad battery), but my lack of knowledge of these batteries used in the machines is starting to get to me. Differentiating normal behavior from behavior indicating a bad battery or other problems is not really something I can do right now. What I know: Topped off voltage: 15 (ish) volts ( details?) Dead flat voltage: 10 volts Cold cranking amps: indication of maximum current a battery can deliver in the cold (details ?) Reserve minutes: equivalent to "AH" rating times conversion factor lead acids can take a beating and survive without a, less say, "exciting" failure mode What I don't know: How am I supposed to know what I don't know???? ;) What is a typical topped off voltage for a battery? Does the voltage sag from say 16V when charger is removed? What characteristics change as they age? I would guess increased leakage current/resistance, reduced current capability and reduced capacity (?) would you lose a bit of capacity real quick after cycling a deep cycle marine battery a few times? I know lithium ions do, every new phone I ever had has lost at least 10% of it's capacity in a few short months as it got "broken in." What about maximum charging current? Does ripple current matter?
Question by -max- | last reply
I have three, 12v, 22ah SLA batteries wired in series to make a pack that is 36v and 22ah. The charger I have is the very crude kind which is essentially just a transformer. It says it outputs 36v at 1.6a. The batteries are empty, this will be the first time I am charging them. How can I tell when then are finished charging? Can I use a multimeter? If not, then what? Thank you in advance for your help.
Question by ___ | last reply
How could I charge two Sealed Lead-Acid batteries at the same time and power 2 differnet devices? Answered
Could somebody please help me? I cant find a way too charge 2 SLA's at the same time and run 2 seperate devices and make it so I can power one device one one battery and another device powered by the other battery. There some some writing on the battery casing But I don't really understand but it reads: ______Constant Voltage Charge_______ I Voltage Regulation I I Cycle Use 14.4 - 14.7V I I Standby use 13 .15 - 13.8V I I Max charging current 1.2A I _________________________________ Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Question by CyclonicNinja | last reply
Hi all, Basically I'm planning on making an electric motorbike within the next year or so and need to know how to charge the batteries. I'm planning to have 8 batteries altogether, 4 batteries connected in series, then the 2 sets of 4 connected in parallel to up the capacity. How would I go about charging this configuration? The batteries are going to be high capacity, deep cycle sealed lead acid batteries. Cheers, - Will
Question by xXAfterBiteXx | last reply
I have one that's been dead for several months. It's 12v, 4AH. It's sealed lead-acid rechargable battery, any ideas on how to revive it? Also, how would you charge this kind of battery?
Question by 1up | last reply
Please suggest me a charging circuit for 12V 7.2 Ah lead acid battery without application of transformer
I am using 12V 7.2Ah Amaron Quanta lead acid battery for an Emergency Lamp. I am using the following charging circuit which is attached with this post. In this charging circuit, 230 ac voltage is given as input to the 16-0-16 transformer. The output of transformer is filtered through rectifier diodes and then given as input to the LM317 of charging circuit. As of now transformer is needed to step down the ac input voltage. I need a charging circuit without a transformer. So kindly suggest me a circuit which consists of input rectification without a transformer. Please suggest it with a moderate cost. And also I need one more clarification. I am using "Constant Voltage" - trickle charging method to charge the battery. I am using a load of 2 lamps of total 110 W lamps which stand for around 50 minutes of full charged battery. The lamps will cut-off at 9.5-9.8 V. Then it takes around 16 hours to make the battery full charge. Could you please confirm me if I can charge the battery soon (min 6 hours). Is so at what rate I should use the load. Please help me in this situation. I mention the website link which I am currently using for charger circuit. http://www.circuitstoday.com/lead-acid-battery-charger In this circuit, I am using a 16-0-16 transformer to convert the line voltage of 230V ac and bridge rectifier diodes to convert it into dc. Please suggest me a circuit without the application of transformer to convert 230V ac to dc. My mail id is firstname.lastname@example.org. Thanks, Thomas.
Question by tvibakar | last reply
Regarding charging a sealed lead acid battery, can i just apply a 12v wall wart at an amperage around a tenth of the rated Ah? i.e. 12v 700mA for a 7Ah battery (for what, 10hours?) in context i'm looking at making some computer speakers (2.1) portable with a battery such as: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YUASA-fire-intruder-alarm-battery-12v-7Ah-lead-acid_W0QQitemZ290422260055QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes?hash=item439e840157i know these may not be suitable for deep cycle charging/draining, does this use count? and will i be damaging it with 12V constant even if i take off charge once i have worked out the time to charge it for? (dividing the amp-hours by the amp rating of the wall charger gives the number of hours right?) any help possible would be great, i want to get this project rolling and of course ill post it up here!?
Question by jamesjamesjames | last reply
Hi My battery started to leak between bottom base and top cover (check pic). Just wondering anybody removed top cover? I know, you can remove top plate in order to add ionising water etc, but the actual top base? Thanks
Topic by Extasy | last reply
I have two 6-volt ~4.5 AH batteries, and I'm not sure how to charge them. I know that overcharging and voltage regulation can be an issue. They have markings on the outside that say "standby voltage ( voltage)", "intermettent use voltage (voltage)", and I was wondering what voltage I use to charge them, how I know when they're fully charged, etc. Advice is welcome. Thanks!
Question by mad magoo | last reply
I want a battery that is capable of delivering 12V for a minimum period of an hour. My circuit will take 5-10A. And what loader should I use with it?
Question by Coding Kid | last reply
Hey guys, I want to bug you's again. Instead of trying to ask about different things in one of my other topics, I wanted to start a new one. I went to the local dump today, and one of the first things I spotted was Three, not just one, booster packs. You know, the ones you can charge up and boost a car with, and some of them have inverters built into them so you can run small appliances. Well I snapped all three of them up, thinking that at the very least, the lead acid batteries inside them would be OODLES of help towards making a full scale wind generator (I plan to build one or two full size wind generators with car alternators, whenever the good weather comes and I can work outside). Well, I got them home and cracked them all open. Turns out that only one battery is good to me (pictures below). The two identical units have 350 watt inverters built into them (I've removed one so far), but the batteries were bulging and the sides were split open, although not leaking, which was good, less mess to clean up. The third booster pack I opened appeared to have been already attempted at being opened. 4 of the 6 screws had been drilled out (which is beyond me as far as why they would do it? They were only phillips screws), but maybe they weren't successful? It had a couple wounds of electrical tape around it to hold it together. Needless to say, whatever cutting tool they used, cut into the battery itself (they cut too far in, dumbasses...), and so my main question here is, is the battery safe to charge, and use? I took some macro's of the damage and some of the cut marks seemed to have gone far enough in to cut into what appears to be a white plastic lining inside, as the white crud on the sides of the battery feels more like burnt on plastic from a cutting disc than it does acid that oozed out and dried up, so the damage doesn't appear to be that bad. What's the worst that could happen anyways? Also, the battery has about almost 8v left in it, and another question is, is that too low for a 12v battery? Like has it been discharged too far? Also, aside from the battery. I found this plate with a transformer, giant capacitor, and a pcb that looks like it was some kind of voltage converter board (I would take a picture but I've since cut a few things off of it and I won't even bother now) The transformer puts out 25v and you can see in the pictures what the capacitor is rated for (I would like to know what I can use this capacitor for, or if I should save it and wait till I can make a bank of capacitors for a tesla coil project or something) What I can't figure out, is what is this square device I found that was plugged into one of the output leads of the transformer? It only had two leads coming off of it, one is marked + and one -, the other two terminals don't have marking on it. No model numbers or anything. Does anyone know what this is? Also, last in my pictures is one of the inverter boards I pulled out of one of the power-packs. I cut the second outlet off and wrapped the first one in tape just to make sure I dont' shock the hell out of myself. I have my truck battery sitting inside over the winter, and with a good 12.71v, I thought it would be the perfect battery to try the inverter on. I brushed the wires onto the top terminals of the battery and although I could hear a bit of sparking, I saw nothing and the indicator light on the power switch didn't light. The volt meter also showed nothing from the 120v outlet. So I tried shoving the wires into the bolt sockets that the truck's wires bolt into, and I quite literally startled myself as it emitted a really loud BEEEEEEEEEEP, I nearly jumped through the roof. The indicator light turns on when I flick the switch to I and I can hear the transformer making a little buzzing sound. However, when I measured the AC voltage from the outlet, I didn't write down the voltage, but it was around 3v? Not even quite that much. I'm not sure if the inverter is screwed or if it has something to do with the switching nature of power inverters causing my multi-meter to not read it right? One other thing I will note is that I had to cut the power switch leads to remove it from the case, then re-solder the switch. The switch has 2 black wires and one red, I tried my best to make sure that each black wire went to the terminal on the switch it came from, and I assume if I didn't hook the switch up right, it wouldn't have lighted up or anything right?? I don't want to try plugging something into it for fear that it will blow up in my face, at least not until I know it's functioning like it should be, however I doubt these power packs were throwing out for failure of the inverter... *On the side note* I apologize for these (sometimes) rediculously long posts or just mundane questions. However, I like to be thoughrough with my questions so that there are very little questions asked, about my question, in the first place. As it seems to waste a lot of time asking for details about this or that problem, when you could just throughly explain it all in one go. This is what I try to do, so there are no blank spaces for you guys to try and "assume" where you don't know the proper information. Secondly, I've really appreciated the help, and sometimes just the helpful and creative ideas I hear from others, makes me feel good, like there's actually some people on here that know what they're doing and I can trust their answers (Nacho, kiteman, caitlyn's dad, 1010100100, all of you regulars, have been great help to me) *End of girlish requiem*
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
I have a 1996 Volvo 850 GTL Wagon. We drive it infrequently, averaging 2 trips per week. If it isn't driven in 10 - 14 days, the battery will invariably be dead, and I'll need to jump start it, or charge it with a trickle charger overnight. At first, I thought the battery was worn out even though it was wasn't quite to the end of its warranty period. I replaced it, but this didn't solve the problem. Next, I thought our typically short trips weren't allowing the battery to fully charge, so I specifically changed my driving habits and used the trickle charger to top up the battery on a regular basis. After doing this, the battery would measure in the 12.3 to 12.6 V range, but after two weeks without driving would be again be dead, measuring in the 11 V or lower range. Even after needing a jump-start, the battery will start the car again after just 5 minutes of driving. I've measured the steady-state current draw from the battery after the car has been off for several minutes to several hours using both a clamp-on style ammeter (<0.1 amps; lowest the clamp-on could measure) and an inline current meter between the negative terminal and the negative terminal's clamp (40 mA). 40 mA seems reasonable from what I can find online, and shouldn't be enough to drain the battery over 2 weeks. So, I have an 11-month old battery that won't hold a charge for two weeks, and I'm fairly confident there's no abnormal current draws from the car. Should I replace the battery again and hope for the best? Is there any truth (and references!) to claims that a lead-acid battery once drained too low can never recover? Updated with new information for the various suggestions below: After fully charging the battery, I disconnected it for 48 hours. It remained at 12.6 volts over the entire period, and when I reconnected it, easily started the car. I don't suspect the alternator: When the car is running, 5-6 amps flows into the battery and the voltage on the battery is 13.6 V; and if I drive the car once or twice a week, the battery never dies. I do suspect something with the keyless remote. I stopped using my keyless remote years ago because I found it too bulky to carry around -- I lock and unlock the car using the key in the door. Christy still uses her keyless remote. Recently, she was the last one to drive the car before we went out of town for 10 days. When we got back, I was positive the battery would be dead, but it started the car without a problem. So, I ran the experiment of leaving the car unlocked, locked with the key, and locked with the keyless remote. After a few days, the battery would be dead when locked with they key, but not when locked with the keyless remote or left unlocked. Frustratingly, I've checked the current draw in all three configurations, and it's 40 mA in each case (and stays that way for several minutes). For now, I have a solution that keeps the battery from dying if I don't regularly drive the car, but I'd still like to understand what is going on. Updated with solution 2010-09-02 At the car's next regular service, the shop recognized the problem. On cars of this type and age, the crimp on the positive terminal can fail turning the positive wire to the battery into a resistor rather than a wire. This is diagnosed by measuring the charging voltage on the battery and giggling the wire (it will jump around, and not remain at the required 13.8 V), and by noticing that the wire itself is hot. Volvo recently released a fix for this, and previously the shop had to remove the entire wiring harness, at great expense, to fix it. So, my battery was never getting fully charged, and I've selected the best answer from among the suggestions that my measured charging voltage was too low.
Question by ewilhelm | last reply
If got a couple of 12V sealed lead acid batteries. What can I do with them? Perhaps A fun Tech project thing or something? Because they are perfectly fine and I got them for free. I'm not planning on throwing them out, but I don't know what to do with them either. So can anyone help me out?
Question by theexternaldisk | last reply
I like to make my own jewlery, and i like to make rings. but for the life of me i can never seal the gap between the metal to form a nice solid ring. doe anyone know a site with instructions? is it a term i dont know that as a key word would get me results? sorry for lack of grammer correction im typeing faster then normal and im strapped for time thank you for any help update, i should have said mostly use steel as a medium, silver and gold is a bit out of my price range, but do have silver solder lead free. the help so far has been great thank you all so much.
Question by Travpena | last reply
Just the day before it was working perfectly fine! And all of the sudden it doesn't! Its about 10 Amps and i was planning to use it but know it wont charge. Its about 2 times wider than those batteries that alarms use(look in that big box in the wall there is a lead acid battery in there) in my case i had 2. Its kinda like the one in the picture,Except a bit taller
Question by ReCreate | last reply
Hi guys! So i was done with this instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/Water-Level-Indicator-with-Alarm/ Everything is working perfectly except for one small problem: our best friend, CORROSION The wires that go into the tank are getting corroded. Its forming greenish layers(i assume copper oxide) and after reduces conductivity and also after a while, it washes away with water. I want to attach a metal, which is more resistant to corrosion, to the wires so that i can seal the wires themselves and only expose the metal leads, and since they conduct electricity, my indicator will work fine. The only problem is : WHICH METAL? I have no idea which metal i should use. Anybody suggest something which is commonly available and resistant towards corrosion? Also, can i use graphite leads, the one they use in pencils? Or will it cause any problems?
Topic by charmquark | last reply
Hi, I want to run a battery operated item that takes its power directly from my 50cc mopeds 12v 4ah battery. The item takes a minimum of 60w and can take upto 100w which I'm told, could drain the mopeds battery too much even when the engine is running at full speed charging the battery. Can I connect an adustable 6-24v step up inverter to the main bikes battery and use it to install and charge a second 12v bike battery purley to power the 60w to 100w electrical item while its in use, saving my main bikes battery to besure it won't run out of enough power to start the moped after Ive finnished using the electrical item? Im sorry but I not good at electonics and need your input to help guide me to run the item from my 50cc scooter/moped.
Topic by selectauto | last reply
I have two lead acid batteries rated 6v 4.5 AH (is AH ampere? or ampere/hour) boast/equalize 7.2-7.5v float 6.75-6.9v max charge current 1.35A both my batteries are identical the question now is.. i want to build a charger for it and something to lower is current so some feature i want is 1) rechargeable by a simple plug in adapter (i have a 12v 4A ac-dc adapter) 2) output of usb voltage and current (optional adjustable current and voltage) 3)led indicates 4)optional: a switch to power usb devices directly from the adapter/bypass battery to extend battery life 5)around 5 usb out puts? i want to build this project cos i have the won batteries which are in good conditions but not being used in anyway.. i hope someone can help me with the technical specs..especially on the circuit diagram have access to an electrical components shop but it does not sell chips so i need to salvage them
Question by michaelgohjs | last reply
For electric go karts, which one is better (for the money)? Lead acid is by far much much cheaper, but it is much much heavier. With a heavier battery you need a stronger frame, which weighs even more. With all of this weight you need an even stronger motor to push it all. With lithium you can build a lighter, cheaper frame, and power it with a weaker and cheaper motor and still obtain the same speeds. Lead Acid batteries take up about 1/3 the weight of a gokart with rider (1/3 being the driver, and the other third being chasis and motor and such). Reducing the weight by about a third (honestly, lithium, batteries weigh like nothing) could have huge performance improvements. So, does spending more money on batteries, and saving money on chasis and motor equal out to spending less on batteries and more on chasis and motor?
Topic by guyfrom7up | last reply
I want to combine 2 - 12 volt 12 amp hour sealed lead acid battery's with 2 - 12 volt 50 sealed lead acid battery's
I want to extend my driving distance I know if I got with 4 - 12 volt 50 sealed lead acid battery's it will take 14 hours to charge the set of 4 and I do not know even if I bought a new 2 amp hour charger that it the charger will last very long being run for that long of time I wan to combine 2 - 12 volt 12 amp hour sealed lead acid battery's with 2 - 12 volt 50 sealed lead acid battery's is this a safe thing to do will the higher amp lead acid battery's do damage to the lesser one's ? this set up is for a E-bike which takes just under 25 amp hour draw I've seen the draw get into the first bar of red but only in winter when it's rile cold say about - 47 Celsius
Question by Cleasonsook | last reply
Hello, i just ripped apart a sealed lead acid battery, and have salvaged the plates, but now i have a problem, two actually i have two types of plates one is red-brown, the other, light grey , which i suspect is just lead, which, through my powers of deduction leaves me to beleive the redish crystaline substance that makes up the positive plates must be lead sulfate. what i want to know, is what this red substance is, and if it is lead sulfate, how do i convert it into sulfuric acid? ive tried electrolysis, but the ph doesnt seem to change beyond normal, for plian old hho electrolysis! am i getting something wrong here?
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
A while ago (a few months maybe?) I bought a cheap robot vacuum cleaner from a car boot sale. I decided to take it apart as it was pretty useless as a vacuum cleaner. When I took it apart I kept the battery and the charging plug (wall wart) together. Now I want to use the battery but I am not sure how to connect it to the charger. (I tested the battery and it still works.) The battery is a 6V 2.8Ah valve regulated sealed lead acid battery. On the front of the battery it says it needs a constant voltage charge of 7.25-7.45V and less that 0.84A. The plug that came with it is a 7.5V 600mA wall wart. I have a vague recollection of how it was connected up. I remember that there was a diode in the mix. The positive terminal was connected to a switch and then the main control board. The negative terminal connects to the main control board and there is also a small wire that was connected to something else. I would like to know how to connect this up in such a way that is safe for charging the battery?
Question by dracorabbid | last reply
I found a 6v closed lead battery as found in UPS systems. I'd like to get in in condition again and found a schematic for a charger/revitalisor for motorcycle batteries. But those are open batteries, and I found chargers specifically for that type somewhere as well. Could I use it anyway or is that a bad idea?
Question by Fozzy Vis | last reply
I have a 4 volt 4.5 ah sealed lead acid battery out of a cordless phone battery backup thing and I have no way to charge it. Does anyone know how to make a charger for it or even at what voltage and amps to charge it at? Thanks.
Question by JasonYMN | last reply
Hello, ive just tried to make lead acetate by putting lead into a mix of lead metal, acetic acid, and hydrogen peroxide, but nothing has happened , the hydrogen peroxide just decomposed by the lead, and then the solution because all frothy and grey. i understand now that lead dissolves very slowly in acetic acid. is there a faster way to make lead acetate?Ive been looking online , and nowhere does it say how long it takes to make, aside from one place that says it makes 30g per year! using just lead and vinegar. also, would electrolysis work? using two lead electrodes? i managed to make copper acetate of a high concentration (solution turned very deep blue), would the same work with lead? ir would it just make HHO?
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
I am designing a solar panel charger for usb devices, I have a 12V 3A lead acid battery and I want that reduced to 5V 1A to comply with most portable devices, Help is much appreciated and diagrams would be ideal
Question by EmptyCoffin92 | last reply
Is it possible to take a 12V lead acid battery, remove the acid from all 6 cells and replace with water and connect to a 12V power source, and get H2 and O2 gasses bubbling out the top? The reasoning behind this question is that the 12 volt lead acid batteries are made of 6 cells, each producing about 2 volts, connected in series. If instead of producing 12V we could (by removing the acid and replacing with salt water) feed it 12V, wouldn't we have 6 hydrolysis cells running at 2V each? 6 cells of 2V hydrolysis cells is nothing new, but has anyone of you ever tried to convert a lead acid battery before? Is the lead going to be any good as electrodes? Will the lead oxidize too fast? Will the there be any chemical reaction that would change the produced gasses? Should I be worried about lead poisoning for even typing these words? Should I be asking anything else I haven't thought about? Thanks!
Question by Morgantao | last reply
Can I charge a 6v SLA battery with a small voltage-regulation circuit based on the LM350 and a 12v SLA?
I know that Lead Acids are pretty tough cookies in the battery world as far as over-voltage and charging goes, but since I lack an electronic engineering education, I would like to make sure I don't blow H2SO4 everywhere. I would be monitoring the charging to see when the current drops to the low mA's, and would not have the battery on a constant trickle charge for very long. I just need the cheapest way possible to charge the battery >.< any other recommendations would be appreciated! I had been borrowing a bench supply, but had to return it and now have nothing. *forever alone*
Question by mojofilta | last reply
Hello, I am looking for a low power (watts) pc to play world of Warcraft I'm talking of a custom build computer Reason: I'm into solar power and green energy I have 2 Solar panels 1 15 watt panel and 1 30 watt panel. I like to play around and tweak computers ---- Aim: to get the lowest possible wattage computer to play world of Warcraft =========================================================== What I need you to do: Advise me on what components I need to buy example SSD hard drive ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Budget: I'm afraid I'm on a budget at the moment as i only get paid £120 a month with £0 in the bank i can save up for a few months if required however. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Size: Size is not a problem _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Weight: Weight is not a problem ----------------------------------------
Question by Daniel Deacon | last reply
Hello Everyone, I have two sealed lead acid batteries, 12V and 26A. What would the best way to charge these be? I have a small 12v float charger, would this normally be adequate? The charger says not to use on a battery with less than 9.6 volts. Both batteries are hanging around the 5.7-5.9v range. For a battery requiring this much charge, what is the best option (without purchasing a specialized charger). Building one will not be a problem. Thank you for your time! Huck
Question by huck alexander | last reply
It seems to me that Lead-acid and Lithium batteries are the only type of batteries used for electric vehicles. Also every one complains that Lead-acid is too heavy and Lithium is too expensive. So why not split the difference and use Ni-mh batteries? They aren't really heavy or expensive. Why aren't they used?
Question by bowmaster | last reply
Question by Daniel Deacon | last reply
Hi i am wondering how to go about building a solar charge regulator i need some help and passably schematics i have 2 broken charge controllers the parts i have salvaged 11A20YR, LM324. IC x2 11YRD g4, CD40106BM. X2 IC IRF3205, MT 1D4H. X6 MOS-FET ALJ, D882, P63. X2 TRANSISTOR X16, GF1200, YELLOW THING X2 C1115, JC817,KENTC, X2 few other parts that are on the board
Question by Daniel Deacon | last reply
I am trying to decide what battery to get for my 2 solar panels 45 watts in total i have gathered that i need a deep cycle i need it to charge up 5 days and use it on the week end. any advice and help would be highly appropriated http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12V-85AH-QUALITY-LEISURE-BATTERY-NEW-4-YR-GTEE-/180687142468?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D2%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D971368555902802126#ht_1304wt_1139
Question by Daniel Deacon | last reply
This is my first post ever and I am completely new to this but would like to be able to charge a sealed lead acid battery. The battery is 12V12Ah / 20HR. Is it possible to charge directly from power supply which is 12V30A or do I need a resistor to limit current? Besides a power supply is it also possible to recharge the battery a different way? I tried online and made a circuit that didn't really output correct voltage. Can anybody please help?
Question by Etronix | last reply
I just got a 5 watt solar panel and started experimenting with it today. I want to use it to charge a single 10 watt hour/2.5 amp hour 18650 lithium ion cell. The solar panels have an open voltage of 22 volts. I connected the solar panel to an anyvolt3 (boost/buck power regulator), set the anyvolt3 to put out 4.2 volts, then connected the anyvolt to the lithium cell with a blocking diode. I accounted for the voltage drop of the blocking diode and the panels charged the lithium cell at .1 watts. Pathetic. Then I tried charging a 20 amp hour Werker sealed lead acid 12 volt battery. I set the anyvolt to 14.4 volts. The panels charged the lead acid battery at 4.5 watts. Thats pretty good. Now why can I charge the lead acid but not the lithium. The lithium is what I really want to charge because i want to use the solar panel to charge lithium cells when I go on long bike tours. I don't want to take any heavy lead acid batteries on my bike trip. Thanks
Question by Noblenutria | last reply
I have a couple of battered old car batteries. There is no local scrap dealer that will take them so I was wondering if it would be possible to extract the lead myself and sell it for scrap. I have searched on google and cannot find anything about this and I suspect it would be dangerous and impractical. However I thought there's no harm in asking here. I was imagining that I could open the battery up and pour the acid into some kind of strong alkali, neutralising it to make it safe for disposal. But then, I certainly wouldn't like to try this without some advice first. Cheers! Pete
Topic by peater | last reply
I've decided to make a (somewhat) portable Wii, and I'm hoping to use a 12 volt 7AH battery to power it. The batteries will be attached directly to the power input on the console (with a filter cap). Here's what's been bugging me, though. The Wii's normal AC adapter puts out ~12.2 VDC, A sealed lead acid battery, however, puts out 12.6 when fully charged. Will that 0.4 volts do anything, or am I just being a nut? If it does, can I shave off that 0.4 volts with anything?
Question by Shagglepuff | last reply