Question by mcald | last reply
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I've read, and seen youtube about sharpening a sickle or scythe by cold hammering the edge to a very thin, sharp edge. Although I get the idea of coldsmithing (kinda) it just seems to be something that I don't have the knack for yet. I also don't have some of the specialized jigs I've seen on youtube. Do any of you have experience with sharpening an edge by hammering it while cold? Tips?
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
Back in the day we already had these tiny grinding wheel like tools in the kitchen.Plug it in, press a button and slide the knife through.The blade was supposed to come out razor sharp if you trusted the ads....For obvious reasons a grinding wheel moving along the edge is not a good thing, especially not if both te up and the down movement work on the edge.As soon as they appeared they disappeared only to emerge years later in a "modern" form.The latest incarnation now comes with ceramic wheels to give an even sharper finnish LOLThe problem however is still the same, first the action of the whells then the fact that it is next to impossible to get different angles.They are really only good for some knifes you use in the shed if nothing else is available.A now much hyped electric sharpener is basically just a tiny belt sander with guides attached to it.And don't get me wrong, they come in handy for certain works.But if you ever used a belt sander on a flat piece of steel you realise that it is quite impossible to get a flat surface finnish.The belt curves around the edge and this results in a curved or beveled edge.Obviously the claim to sell these is that a beveled edge has superior strength and sharpness compared to a straight angled edge.And then there is the ability to adjust not just the sharpening angle but als the grid of the sandpaper.The finer you go, the better the result and sharpness...Now if we trust those who create swords from raw iron ore then something is wrong with the belt approch.These guys would tell you that you should always use a flat stone and to slice a piece of the stone.But also that a beveled edge is a sign of wear, something a good butcher will confirm.The angle of the edge party affects how sharp and durable the edge will be.Usually there is a compromise between blade thickness, meterial and edge angle.Just go from razor blade to an axe and include severel types of knifes between them.So a beveled edge in my opinion is only good for brute force tools but not that good for fine slicing and dicing.I tried to sharpen a wood chisel on one of the belt sander toys...It turned out to be far less precise and the edge was not fully straight.Could be down to lack of experience but if you ever try it let me know your results.The produced edge was also quite unusal and often bad when used as intendet.Far more chipping than cutting.Difference between straight angle and beveled angle when using a knife.You might want to do some lonely woodworks while fishing.A good knife now just eats into the wood and lets you cut and slice pieces of at almost any angle of the blade.With a beveled edge however you face the problem that your working angle is drastically reduced.Tilt the knife a bit too much and you suddenly just slide off the wood and into your flesh.If you grind and hone a knife to a 20° angle on a flat stone than from all angles above 20° you can cut.If you belt sand a knife to a 20° angle you end up with a bow over this angle.The actual usable working angle can be as low as 40° on a thicker blade.In theory it is possible to overcome this bevel problem.Sanders with a backing plate for example or by using just enough pressure to take material off.The first will destroy your belts quickly, the second takes forever.Some people just sand the knife at an angle to the belt, so instead of having the belt running at 90° to the edge it runs at 60 or 40°.Reduces the buckle but also the sharpness as the actual edge is now rounded.The only real way to sharpen a knife would be with a cutting or slicing motion, something that usually cuts your belts once the edge becomes sharp enough.So should you use them after all?As with all tools it comes down to quality and how you use the tool.If you know what you do and what the limitations are an electric sharpener can save you a lot of time.Someone with a desire for razor sharp knifes and tools might only use them on the lawn mower...You can however very well use sandpaper for sharpening a knife, which I will explain in another post....
Topic by Downunder35m
I attended a free i3 class on how to sharpen and hone your knives (I was the new kid with the hat) and I took some video. I will do a more through writeup in the ible when I get around to it, but when I do, who do I credit/link to? Also I learned a lot at the class, thanks guys!
Topic by The Ideanator | last reply
NOTE THIS IS A MODIFIED VERSION OF THE ONE I MADE LOOKING AT THE VIDEO ON YOUTUBE! IT WAS INTENDED AS A GEAR BOX BUT I ALSO TURNED IT INTO A SHARPENER AND A CHAIN SAW!!! It is hand cranked so... yeahThis is a knex sharpener tool that uses gear ratios to spin the rod at high speeds faster then a large yellow gear to small blue or grey gear ratio which is a 1/5 rotation ratio, for this gearbox though you achieve a magnificent 1/32 rotation ratio. One spin of the cog or yellow gear or starting gear whatever = end rotationWhen spinning at high speeds use a knife or sand paper to refine the sharpness of your rod to a dangerous needle if needed, or you just want to clean up a bad cut job from a pencil sharpener or knife cutter? This gearbox will smoothen out our refine your knex rod... NOTE THIS CAN SHARPEN THE ROD SO SHARP THAT IT IS DEADLY... NEVER EVER FIRE THIS ROD EVER TRUST ME NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER SHOOT THE SHARPENED ROD AT YOURSELF OR SOMEONE OR ON AN UNRELIABLE KNEX GUN OR A STUPID KNEX GUN ETC THIS THING CAN MAKE YOUR RODS DEADLY TRUST ME IT HAPPENED TO ME BEFORE!!Anyway enjoy!
Topic by mrbox | last reply
Nowadays almost all hand saws are induction tempered. It seems such a waste to throw them out all the time after they get dull. Traditional hand saws could be sharpened with a triangular file and a special tool to bend the teeth outward. I guess sharpening can be done by means of a dremel tool with a diamond disk, but what about the bending of the teeth? Any suggestions?
Question by BobS | last reply
Hi, so I bought a machete in Costa Rica, but it's not very sharp at all. I want to be able to cut open a coconut with it, so I need it to be relatively sharp. I found a video of a guy sharpening his blade on a regular, large, flat stone using only water. I can't find a large flat stone to sharpen it with, but I happen to have a large, flat, concrete surface, conveniently located in my basement (it's the floor). Using water, can I sharpen my machete on the concrete surface, much like the guy in the video did on the rock? He pretty much just moved it in a circular pattern, at an angle to the rock. I don't want to invest any money on this, so please let me know if this is possible.
Question by Hadokendude | last reply
I saw and tested https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-sharpen-a-knife-with-a-nail-clipper-2/ It works amazingly well, as long as you don't mind a few scratches on the blade. I like it but a nail clipper is way too small for a couple of my knives, (chef's knife, buck knife, etc.) I'd like to imitate the effect using a piece of steel I have. What would be the best way to attach the pieces together? I considered a pop rivet but I don't know it would stand up to much use or be tight enough. Recommendations?
Question by finfan7 | last reply
I'm trying to use the Blur/Sharpen tool on Gimp 2 to sharpen an image. The trouble is, all the tutorials online are from some older version of Gimp where clicking on the Blur/Sharpen button gives you a menu where you can select either Blur or Sharpen. Gimp 2 doesn't have that, and pressing Blur/Sharpen automatically gives you Blur. Right-clicking gets the same result as left-clicking it. The Gimp manual says to press down on CTRL to switch between Blur and Sharpen, but it doesn't really work whether or not I press down on it while trying to sharpen or just strike it. It seems like a simple problem, so if anyone has the solution, I'd be happy to hear it. Thanks!
Topic by The Phantom Chemist
Back when my dad was in the Navy, he got an Edgco Buttlerfly knife in Afganistan. He gave it to me a while back. I decided to sharpen it so I could actually use it. It's not getting sharp no matter how long I scrape it on the whetstone. I can't take it to someone to get it sharpened because they're illegal in my state.
Question by General Eggs | last reply
I have a rather abused Carpenter Chisel that I inherited. It has plenty of 'blade' left on it, just alot of dings. I've attempted to sharpen it with a metal file I have in the shop, and have had mixed results. I was hoping someone could share their technique.
Question by StickStoneBone | last reply
On the weekend a friend of mine asked me if I could get his 2 fishing knifes ready for the season.Being a nice guy I agreed as they were so blunt that you could sit on the knifes edge without even getting a scratch.Did just the usual, you know, cleaning it first, grinding a proper angle back on it with a very coarse stone, sharpening from a 300 grit down to a 1000 grit and then of course polishing and removing the burr.Was quite pleased with the result and decided to bring the finnished knifes back to my friend....There are several ways to check if a knife is sharp.Most know the newpaper cutting thing.Some dare to try if the knife i able to shave some hair off.And a few actually know that it is enough to check if it won't slip of your fingernail.My friend however was used to knifes that I would consider to be piece of steel with a rounded edge...Of course he had to try to run his finger down the blade and before I could stop him....He said "Feels nice and smooth but I think you ruined the edge with your polishing!".I only said "Get some bandaids before you check your finger and reconsider."Lets just say about 10 seconds after his test he started bleeding like a pig.He actually managed to get the cut about 5mm deep :(We agreed that it would be best to keep these knifes in the boat and to put a note on them so he won't check their sharpness again.There are tons of tutorials and videos showing various ways of sharpening a knife that can be used as a general reference.But if you already know all the basic while still struggling a bit to get the edge and sharpness you desire:The most important thing to know is what type of steel is used in your blade.I don't mean the grade or composition, just the difference between stainless steel and old style steel that is able to rust.You never want to sharpen a stainless steel blade with a stone that is well used on normal steel.If in doubt clean it out!The reason behind is that you cause the steel that is able to oxidise or rust to be worked into the stainless steel surface.In the worst case this can cause rust spots or smalle pits in your sharpened edge.When it comes to restoring the edge of a well worn knife some beginners and so called expert struggle to keep the angle and edge itself even and straight.Tools to overcome this are available, like these guides for a diamond stone on a stick where you cplamp your blade in.There are also "trolleys" that hold your blade at a fixed angle on the stone by means of small wheels.Both have their uses but also a lot of limitations, especially when it comes to the rounded parts of a blade, like the tip or filet knife that is generally curved a bit.Special knifes like the old Kukri knifes have a curved part that goes to the inside, these are a true pain with normal grinding and honing stones, so I will leave them out here, but feel free to ask in the comments if you need more info.The best way I found for restoring a rounded knifes edge without special tools is by using a long diamond file.Preferably with a quite long handle and not too wide.Like with the guide tools the key is to cheat your way through ;)But unlike most guide tools you will still keep the same angle in the curved parts ;)Here are the basic tool required:Long handled diamond fileSome wooden block or similar to get work platforms of different heights (lego blocks work too)A long enough clamp to secure your blade on the block(s)For the last you can also make a screw clamp like a hinge to hold the blade in place.You want to knife to be secured so it won't move and so that you can reach all parts of the edge with the file.Depening on what side you work on or what you prefer the file will rest with the handle either above or below the knife.With the length of the handle you can adjust the required angle, preferably in the 20-25° region.For the straight parts of the blade you work in overlapping sections.Rest the handl so it aligns close to the knifes handle and move the file along the knifes edge.It helps to use a permanent marker on the endge to visualise where you take material off and to check the work area creates a parallel area in the painted bits.When you see some material removed move the handle of the file a bit further towards the pointy bit and continue to create the parallel boundaries.Kepp going back and forth along the straight part of the blade until there is only a tiny area left on the edge where the marker stays visible.For the rounded tip part you place the handle so you can follow the curve on the knife at the same angle as on the straight part.Most knife have this area badly neglected once well used so you might end up with a slightly wider area where material is removed.Once the edge is all reduced to the same slim marker line it is time to repaet the process on the other side at the same angle you used before.Don't be too scared to see in a close up that your edge is not perfectly even or straight, a few imperfections will be buffed out in the next step.To finnish the edge and smooth it out you use a flat stone or diomand plate of similar grid to the file, for example 300.If you do this step right you won't even need fancy guides or tricks after doing it a few times.The key from now on is keep an even angle that matches your initial angle to restore the edge.The old masters were right here to use stones that are either secured tightly in a wooden frame or "clamped" down by a leather strap.Apart from needing a perfectly clean and flat surface on the stone and movement will cause a more or less rounded edge again.Every use one of these fancy chesse slicers that work like a potato peeler?You wanna do the same with your knife on the stone.With the stone in front of you start at the far end and move the blade down like you want to cut a thin slice of the stone.Always with the edge towards you like cutting something off, never the other way around.If you don't mount your stone too high you will notics that it is quite easy to use your palms as a guide to keep an even angle throughout a cutting stroke.To find the right angle you again cheat with a marker.But no matter what type of stne or diamond sharpener you use: use lube!!The coarse types usually are fine with water, diomand anyway, finer or so called "oil sones" require honing oil.Do a few strokes and check the marks you left on the marker.Adjust until you get about the same work area cleaned as in the previous step with the file.You will soon see that there are now uneven areas which cause a wobbly outline on the marker.Continue with this grit until you get a nice and even outline.For the rounded tip area you do it similar but with a slight twisting motion.It can help to do a few dry runs on a piece of cardboard to find the right twist.Simply place the rounded part on the cardboard at the approx angle for the sharpening.Now move the handle so the edge follows the curve on the cardboard - the circular motion you need to get from the straight part to the tip is the "twist" you want during the sharpeing of this area.Again, once satisfied do the same on the other side.Now it is time to decide if you want to keep the angle all the way or if you prefer a beveled edge with a slightly wider angle for actual cutting edge.The later is good for knifes that see a lot of abuse and hard work, the first for everything that needs to be really sharp.I prefer sharp so lets continue with this and if you can't figure out how to get a second agnle on the edge ask me in the comments ;)Depending on the quality of your blade you now need to work your way up the grid.If your edge (the part with marker left) is more than half a mm wide you might want to keep going with 300 grit until no marker is left and the edge develops a slight bur on the other side.From now on cleaning the blade and stone every few minutes is a good thing!Rinse it off, wipe it off, flush it off, whatever works best to keep it clean.If you go to 600 grit you will clearly see the difference in the work area.The scratches buff out an the surface becomes smooth.You keep doing the same slicing technique but only do as many strokes as required to get a slight bur throughout the edge on the other side.You will feel it when you move your finger along the side, one feels smooth, one feel very rough.Areas that stay smooth indicate that there is either still material to be removed or that you created a small dint while sharpening - the marker will tell you.Once you get a bur with just a few strokes you know the edge is there.Time to move the next higher grit you have available.From here on you might need to use oil instead of water and depending on the type of stone you will need to leave some slurry on the stone - check the manual ;)Either way the procedure is still the same: Slice a thin piece off until you get a bur.Then do the other side until both are even.Assuming around 1000 grid is the usual max on a hobby level and that you don't have any finer stone it is now time to take of the bur on the edge.No matter what you try there will always be some but created when sharpening.A lot can be prevented and smoothed out though.To do this you reduce the pressure during the last few strokes and turn the knife around often.When you get to the point where a single stroke causes a bur and another single stroke on the other side inverts the bur the knife is almost ready.Polishing a knifes edge can cause a bit of bluntness.For obvious reasons it is best to sharpen to the honing point where a 5000 - 20000grit wet stone is used, but these are quite expensive and require special care.In other cases like our example here you need to make the best out of it:Get some sturdy old leather like some belt.Use proper glue and clamps to glue it onto a really flat piece of wood.You want the smooth side glued and the rough side of the leather facing up.Prepare the leather with some kitchen knife that is need of sharpening anyway by placing it almost flat onto the strip with the edge facing away from you.With good pressure move the blade toward you.You will have to do this several times to align the fibres in one direction only.Now get some metal polishing paste or if nothing else polishing wax for metal - the fine stuff for the wax type please.Rub it in and work in with the kitchen kifes the same as bafore, always in the same direction.You will create a bit of a mess but that does not matter for now.The leather will become more and more smoth on the surface until it appear quite even.Clean the excess off and grab the real knife.There is now enough lube and polishing material in the leather to last quite a while.Start with the knife as flat as possible, again the edge facing away from you when you move the knife in a slicing motion towards you.Do this for a few minutes and you will see that the sharpened edge becomes shiny where it goes into the knifes body.Once all is polished increase the angle slightly and repeat.In a perfect world the polishing should now go almost to the last bit of the edge, only leaving a very thin rough line.This last line is the critical bit.There are two ways to deal with it, pressure or time.If you keep the last used angle but increase your pressure the blade will go deeper into the leather and the polishing should reach the front of the edge.In the other case you slightly increase you angle but only use very little pressure, more like letting the knife rest on the leather while you move it along.In either case you check the edge often with your finger and once it feel really smooth throuout you stop.Turn the knife over often during this last step as even with the polishing you create a slight bur.Only repeated turning and using as little pressure as possible will remove this last bur on both sides.If you know think your knife is still not sharp enough than you might just have a very cheap knife... ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I don't think that pencils are sharpened at the factory with a regular pencil sharpener... it would take forever. I want to know how they, pencil makers, sharpen thousands of pencils.
Question by bellinghammakerspace | last reply
K'NEX guns are often weak but the publisher makes them look strong by sharpening the rods it fires. Banana inventor's pistol shot 20-30 feet but he said it could go through cardboard with a sharpened rod. And Gorkem's sniper rifle only was powerful because of a sharpened rod.
Question by NYPA | last reply
It sounds silly, but I have all the sharpeners one could buy, steels, ceramic, diamond... but no matter how I rub, pull or grind, my kitchen knifes can hardly cut through the skin of a tomato.
Question by dk-info | last reply
I have a small belt sander that I use for sharpening knives but sharpening angle consistency is always a problem. I've been trying to comue up with a jig to maintain a constant angle against the belt sander (see photo) Ideas? I can't seem to figure out a viable solution to what should be a simple solution....right??!!!
Topic by adaniele | last reply
I want to sharpen a knex rod but it never ends up looking like for example gorkems rod in his video i tried sanding it down with a gear box and a drill to make it spin fast but the rod melts when it spins to fast so how can i sharpen a knex rod more effectivley
Question by iundonei | last reply
Hi, I recently bought a Tanto Bowie knife over ebay, and I am wondering how you would sharpen it without doing any damage. I've been collecting knives since i was around 5years of age, and I am pretty skilled at sharpening knives, I will pick up very quickly on how to do this.Picture of knife will be displayed below in a linkhttp://img36.imageshack.us/img36/3867/e6ba12.jpg
Question by Muscelz | last reply
Every now and then you have someone approaching with the odd job.This time it was in the form of an old Kukri / Gurkha knife.Wasn't expecting this when I was asked a few days ago if I could sharpen some old knife so it can be used for camping.The knife had a few marks from hitting hard stuff or maybe the occasional nail.But the worst was that for as long as guy had that knife it was only "sharpened" using a belt sander.You know, these tiny machines advertised to give your (kitchen-) knife the perfect edge.We could now argue about the pros and cons of having a knife edge that is literally rounded.But once it was done so many times that the edge really looks rounded it becomes obvious why this method only works for thinner blades.Adding to the problem was the fact that the belt used was just over 1.5cm wide.Appereantly so it is easier to do the concave part of the blade.Lets just say lengthwise it looked like someone created a wave pattern LOLThere was nothing "straight" on this nice blade anymore.Now, if you look up how to properly sharpen thise Kukri knifes then you can find all sorts of really useful tips.One I really likes was to use some eraser and toglue sandpaper on it.Small and flexible enough to cause minimal damages to the curve towards the handle.Another nice one is to use half round diamond file, preferable of a finer grit in the 600 region.Should work fine - if you plan to invest an awful lot of money on such a file.I however like things quite often done the old fashioned way.The oldest trick in the book....Whether you are using chisels and work on wood, just love to keep your knifes sharp or go on long camping or hiking trips - sharp knifes and tools just become your thing.The main thing everyone tells you is a super flat surface for whatever is supposed to sharpen your blade.For the normal stuff that is fine and good and you only need to flatten out your stones every now and then.But what about these odd jobs?Imagine you would need to sharpen a long paper cutting blade on some machine.Might be over a meter long and it has to stay with a perfectly straight edge.Back in the day this task was not done with some very expensive stone of large size....Instead sandpaper of various grit was used on a flat steel surface.I actually prefer a small pane of glass and tape my sandpaper on it.Hard to find anything finer than 1000 or 2000 grit but you might be surprised how well this stuff polishes onces clogged up a bit.Its all about the right level of wetness...Anyways, for our Kukri in question I decided it is time to do the same but in a way that does not harm the blade, constantly cut into the eraser and still is solid and "flat".If you still work with a sickle then you already know where I am going here ;)I used a small diameter spray can as my surface to hold the sandpaper.Of course a piece of PVC pipe, round wood or similar would warok the same way....Sticky tape does not work well with sandpaper unless you use double sided stuff.But it is enough to wrap one round on the top and one on the bottom of the sandpaper on the can to hold in place.So much for the basics....If you know how to sharpen a knife then you also know that there is a prefered way of doing it.Depending on the blade and stone in question you literally try to cut a thin slice out of the stone with every stroke.Either stright or with a cutting motion.This works fine with sandpaper on a flat surface, not so much however on a round surface.Try it and you see how you cut off the sand from the paper and constantly ruin your edge.The only way to do it is to move with the edge.You start from the heel and stroke to the tip.The can is used likea sharpening rod and shall always stay at a 90° to the curve of the blade.Takes a bit of practice to find the right grip to hold the blade while moving and twisting the can but well worth it.The rounded surface only allows for a very thin area of the sandpaper to work on the edge.I started with 120 grit!!!It left a trail of destruction on the edge, at least in the rounded up section....Once I only had a very thin bit left on the edge from the old sharpening I switched to 240 grit until a flat edge formed.As the Kukri was a disaster this process still tok over 4 hours to complete.That blade was properly hardened too...The start of the finnishing was done by jump right to 600 grit paper.The first can was just slightly smaller in diameter than the concave bend in the blade - perfect to smooth out those nasty bumps.But with a burr forming now on the edge and minor mishap with angle of the can towards the curve of the blade would mean cutting into the can while sharpening the concave bit.Meant I used my emergency insect repellant can as I did not like the idea of hoping my pepper shaker would start leaking while sharpening ;)If you blade is not too damaged you can of course start right away with a smaller diameter.The process is the same as before.Move along the blade and keep the can at the 90° angle towards the curve.Once you feel a burr forming on the side turn over until you have a bur on the previous side again.Repeat until all the marks from the coarser grit are gone and the edge has a uniform shine.Switch to a finer grit and go as high as you can here.I had to stop at 1000 grit as my supply of 2000 and 4000 grit is out.Hints and tricks along the way....It really helps to do this sandpaper sharpening under running water.The paper won't clog up, you won't risk a losse grain making really deep marks...But on a bad blade this can take several hours and would do it with a small aquarium pump or so and some gloves.A fine but stiff brush and soapy water however do wonders to clean up used sandpaper!I prefer to use these re-used pieces before switching to a finer grit.In most cases they are already finer than the next grit and create a nice polish that makes the visual confirmation of your right angle and angle of attack easy.A kukri is a working blade!It is mot meant to make fish filet or shave you legs.It is somewhere between axe, big bowie knife and hatchet.That mean if you would dare to give a 8° angle either side of the edge you would have a pretty damn wide edge...Stick to the original in width but keep it nice and flat.It is good compromise between cutting sharpness and durability when for example chopping wood for your camp fire.DO NOT USE A BELT SANDER!!I said it before but have to repeat it again as there is people using a big belt sander with enough free space to add a set of wheel that creat the curve I got from my spray can.The guys in India that make these knife do this blind folded....It takes years of practise to get the steady hand required not to cut through the belt.The beginners start in reverse, meaning the belt runs towards the edge.These guys only to the basic forming of the edge with really coarse grit.Basically to remove the marks from the forging.After that the pro takes over the blades and he has the belt running towards the edge!If you are silly enough to try it at home be prepared to have the belt flying in your face very violently!!The reverse sanding can't be used to finnish a blade as you never get a proper sharpness and flatness right on the edge.So just stick to manual and take an hour or so longer but then be able to enjoy a cold drink when done.You need surprisingly little sandpaper in terms of clogging up and getting useless until you get to the finer grits.If you use a wooden dowel or similar then make it a bit longer and add strips about 6cm wide of sandpaper.This way you have all the grits you need in one place and can take them with you to keep your blade sharp ;)If you glue it onto the stick it is also quite easy to give it quick brush clean when done.The really tricky part starts from about 800 grit onwards.Every mishap on the concave part can mean damage to your paper or to your edge.When using stone most beginner think that using a lot of pressure is a good way to remove the material quickly.In reality however it is just a sure way to wobble the blade over the stone, especially if the blade is not fully straight.Sandpaper can be more aggressive than your stones as in our case you only work with a little area and every time you turn the can only a little bit you have a fresh piece of paper working instead of a slurry building up.This mean you really do't need much pressure at all.It is the repetition, not the pressure that gives you the edge if you don't mind the pun here. ;)For a real working knife stopping at 1000 grit once you do single strokes either side of the blade is sufficient.The tiny burr left will disappear quickly during use and the Chakmak can be used for a quick refurbishing after every longer use.Should mean you only need to get the sandpaper out once you edge actually started to get blunt again.The final stroke....There are those people that don't have a kukri to go camping...Some people like to collect them.Restoring an old kukri can be done like with any other knife.That is until you want a razo sharp edge that is also highly polished.This is quite possible with the original edge width on the kukri.But of course you can only go so far with sandpaper....Modern technolgy provides us with the solution in several options.Firstly we have the ceramic sharpening rods.Unless you can do with kitchen variety thickness you need to pay a lot of money.A short 8cm diameter rod can set you back over 100 bucks with ease.Especially if you want something that provides a mirror like finnish.And alternative that is often available relatively cheap is a ruby rod.They can often be found with slight damages that make them useless for laser applications.Even burnt out rods are still fine as long as they are not cracked.It is quite hard (literally) to give them a satin finnish but I found that good quality sandpaper is sometimes capable of doing it.I like one side smooth and the other half of the rod with a satin finnish to prepare the edge.On the budget there is quality wet and dry sandpaper as commonly used in paintshops.If used dry the finer grits tend to clog up on such a wide edge.Once you have a piece of 1000 or finer grit that is fully clogged up you can use to give the edge a final polish.With this you won't even need a leather strop anymore but as said it takes a lot of practise so you won't cut the paper in the concave area.The steel rod....If you happen to have a hardened steel rod, like from a motion rail, small drive shaft or a big drill then give it a try.When using a drill:Of course use the end of the drill, not the working part ;)Also make sure it really is motth as any burr from the chuck or such will cause deep scratches on your blade.If it starts to feel sticky after a few good stroke you know the drill method is working.If it continues to feel very smooth and you don't see any polishing effect at all if tried on a small area only then you blade is of really good quality.But then again you would have confirmed that already by the ongoing swearing during the endless hours trying to remove some material from the edge...A word of advise for the first time user of a kukri:Although a good kukri is hard to damage without hitting a stone or metal, you can make blunt very quickly.It is top heavy blade and requires a steady hand when working on other things than meat.Chopping into some wood and letting the blade slip can deform your edge.A little mishap can be fixed with chakmak but not if hit hardwood badly a couple of times.And tempting as might be to use it as a small hatchet or axe to split your kindling:Never hold a piece of wood and then hack into it from the top with your kukri!Not only can you miss the wood and hit your hand, the wood can also split far easier or in unexpected directions!If the kurki is sharp you then have a good chance to loose a finger or two!
Topic by Downunder35m
My wood sled is about 40 yrs old .I want to use it for the grandchildren. The blades are rusty and have never been sharpened. I am looking for a quick easy fix as I am not very handy. We don't usually get enough snow but this year we could use this sled. Thank You
Question by Quezer | last reply
I just started culinary arts at college and i been trying to figure the best way to sharpen a knife i have dmt whetstones that where a gift to me i got coarse, fine, extra fine. i wanna know what would be the best technique to sharpen a chef knife and a boning knife i would like to know any videos that helped you out or any techniques that you use to sharpen a knife on a whetstone i need it sharp cause when i first got the knife it was literally sharp enough that i just pushed it down into the paper and it cut it easily it is a forged chef knife and a pressed boning knife i would love whatever help you have that could make it easier for me to know how to sharpen it right and make it "scary sharp" for class
Question by nightninja87 | last reply
I want to temper my home made steel knife in the micro wave as my oven is currently out of action. Will the metal just heat up or will it explode??? Will it heat up to fast and cause to much pressure on the steel resulting in a crack or a warped knife??? Should i heat up the knife with a blow torch first??? Are there any good ways of doing this??? Please help me!!! :2(
Question by henster22 | last reply
I bought a Samurai Shark Home Smart knife sharpener and lost the instructions. You put it on the edge of a table and draw the knife blade down, 1 time on each edge. it has teeth on one edge and can be adjusted, the other end is just a razor to open boxes, etc... It works great, when you know how to use it, but now my feeble mind cant remember how its done and I lost the instructions. Can someone PLEASE help me I cant even cut an apple. Thanks for any help I can get!! Sally G
Question by klz1948 | last reply
I have several pair of very dull cuticle nippers and hair cutting scissors that could use a fresh edge on them. These are small sharp "plier type" instruments the manicurist uses to remove the excess cuticle from around the nail beds of your fingers and toes. The 2 pieces do not come apart so I need to sharpen them with the jaws wide open, and the use of a very small sharpening instrument. If anyone has a system that works with the use of hand files or a rotary tool I would like to know how this is done. I don't have a lot of space to work in so I'm limited to the simpler methods. I've tried a whet stone, that was a disaster, I'd be willing to try this again, as long as I know what I'm doing so I don't make them worse than they were when I started. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated and welcome. Thanks for helping out.
Question by SQUEEKY1 | last reply
I was given a motor to a Jack LaLanne juicer. How do I get inside? I want to repurpose it as a sharpener, but can't get to the motor shaft. I took the feet off the bottom, but the lower plastic end cap remains in place. Has anyone ever been inside one?
Question by vectorges | last reply
I have lots of small broken hacksaw blades and I want to do something with them along the line of making weapons or knife attachments or stuff like that!!! Hope that you all have some good ideas!!! Ps The cut on my thumb is not from a hack saw. I got bitten!!! :2)
Question by henster22 | last reply
I found a straight-razor at the flea market the other day, so obviously I bought it. Now I'm wondering how I would go about cleaning and sharpening it? Does anyone know good metal cleaning tips for such a delicate blade? I know that you sharpen the blade before you intend to shave on a strop, or a piece of leather, but anything else? On the blade, it has: George Wostenholm & Son's Celebrated I-XL Razor Sheffield, England
Topic by bumpus | last reply
I need to make a sheath for my homemade knife and i need help?
Question by 19samman98 | last reply
I have to sharpen my lawnmowers blade but the bolt wont come com i tried vice grips socket wrenches an even trying to get it of with a torch but none work any suggestions
Question by mclovin7596 | last reply
I am making my own hidden blade(using a letter opener), and my grandpa told me that if the 'bladed' or sharpened part is under 4", it is not considered a weapon. I am wondering if this is true. I don't plan on using this as a weapon, i am just wondering.
Question by Iridium7 | last reply
Hi all a friend has a toledo steel sword that needs help. it looks like some one tried taking a dermel to it to sharpen it, there is gouges/ groves in the blade. i have a dremel and polishing stones, wheels and compound, but I have no clue how to use any of it. any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Topic by denkeeper | last reply
This isnt really directed at anyone, but i think when your making an instructable you should be able to edit a photo you have already uploaded. nothing major, maybe rotate, flip, crop, contrast, sharpen stuff like that. i was just thinking out loud.....
Topic by bumpus | last reply
I recently made a new gun/cannon prototype that is very powerfull, a sharpened grey rod fired from this can go through 3 pieces of thick cardboard. I have posted some pictures for you to look at and comment, plz say if i should post the whole instructable!!!
Topic by albf1 | last reply
Sculptor Jen Maestre's super-cool sculptures reportedly were initially inspired by sea urchins. The artist takes colored pencis, saws the sharpened tips off, and drills a hole through each one individually so they can be stitched together. Talk about dangerous art!'''Link''' via the Daily Mail
Topic by Lithium Rain | last reply
Hi, I was luck enough to be given a free pro code for my recent instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Sharpen-a-Chisel-Quickly-and-Easily/. Here it is for the first that would like it. flag36fewer https://www.instructables.com/go/pro?code=flag36fewer If you feel you want to say thanks please pop a comment on my blog Cheers!
Topic by G S Haydon | last reply
Hey, i am kind of a novice when working with knives, i hope to learn more, but, can someone tell me if i can get my knife honed on a regular file without ruining it? it is already edged, i just need to make it a bit sharper because it ha gotten dull.It is a Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops just in case you want to know.
Topic by PyroManiac96 | last reply
A prisoner in the UK wanted to ink some skin so badly he made a tattoo machine from a Sony PlayStation. He did it by attaching a motor from the PlayStation to a sharpened ballpoint pen. It must've worked because he gave tattoos to others before he was caught it was taken away. Sony PainStation via Inhabitat
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
4-Sided Diamond Hone Block I was wondering if it would be a good idea to use this to polish up my katana that I'm building. I already have a whet stone but it powders easily and seems to not be able to handle the job. also it takes forever i want something with a lower grit.
Question by the_burrito_master | last reply
I have a... Mini Workzone Bench GrinderDeWalt Drill and Driver SetRyobi JigsawOzito SharpenerOzito Random Orbital, Detail, Belt sandersOzito Angle GrinderWhat Powertools do you have and what Powertools would you recommend?
Question by TheInstructableTinkerer
Im new to instructables ive tried a few easy paracord projects but now want to try making my own knife I have a piece of 01 gauge 3mm high carbon steel and a few designs to start. I'm looking for some tips on shaping the blade, hardening and final sharpening. I'm sure there are lots of little tricks out there hopefully this way I won't have to learn them the hard way. Thanks dugie
Topic by dugie502 | last reply