When i was in 5th grade i thought of doing tricks with your pen or pencil. I am not claiming that i made pen spinning but I did think of the idea before they came out with the pens for pen spiniing.
Topic by Robot Lover | last reply
So got this little item I'm trying to create but while it's logically simple I haven't built anything in a while So thought i'd come here and get input on what i really need to do to make things work. so the concept is simple A black box that when turned on lights up with any number of colors (which is why this http://www.ecologicsavings.com/all-products/12v-rgb-led-strip-light/ seems perfect as i can change the color with a seperate remote no complex electronics needed inside) In the center of the device is a crystal/plastic coin (power ranger, or heck Kamen Rider O items would work) and spins and that's it, it lights up and spins the coin set in the center. Souldn't be too hard right? Or is there something obvious i'm over looking
Topic by nekollx | last reply
I'm looking for a light that I can place on the floor that would shine onto a projector screen. Something that spins with a spiral display. Either the light itself spins. Or possibly has the ability to place a filter onto a steady light and the filter spins. I'm in a band and i'm looking for something that would be strong enough to show this light display behind the drums as we play. The light and the projector screen would be relatively close to each other.
Topic by Ellyni
I recently found an old AA powered Portable CD player. Upon dismantling it, I found 6 wires, since which I have tested and discovered their function. My question to you all is, would there be any danger to hooking up a larger battery to the two wires that spin the CD? I tried briefly using a 9 Volt, and the results were simply amazing. I have a hack or two that I could really use this for, and I wanted the opinions of people here to see if there was any danger to doing this.
Topic by MuTe | last reply
Hi ... Does anybody know, how they made it that the motor stops to spin when supplying the power through the MOSFET ??? Please, have a look at the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-zCzS0s6Pk&feature;=player_embedded I have plans for airsoft "mosfet", but not with the braking control. Does anyone know what to add, to make it work like on the video ??? Thank you in advance.
Question by zholy | last reply
For the civil engineers out there, check out this daring piece of architecture: a tower whose floors are independent and can turn on voice command. Each floor is built pre-fabricated off-site and then attached to the tower, and the building creates its own energy using wind turbines and solar power. Of course, for the building to look as smooth as it does below, you'll have to ask all of your neighbors to turn their houses or offices just so.Link via GizmodoOn the subject of skyscrapers, there's more--an insight into how the Taipei 101, the world's second tallest building (at the moment), survived the May earthquake in Sichuan, China. The building uses a 728-ton ball, suspended between five floors in the upper part of the tower, to damp vibrations from high winds or ground tremors. You can watch a video of the damper ball moving during the earthquake here.Link via Gizmodo and Deputy Dog
Topic by joshf | last reply
My little brother just got a model helicopter for his birthday, and it works all right, except it only gets to about 2 metres up, because it spins around uncontrollably when it flies. How do you stop this from happening? We've tried adjusting the trim, but that doesn't seem to do anything.
Question by St Jimmy | last reply
Check out the optical illusion below. Since the figure is totally black, there's no depth- you can see her spinning either clockwise or counter-clockwise. Which way do you see it first? Try reversing the spin direction- moving your finger in a circular motion at the rate of rotation can help you reset. How easy is do you find it to swap perspective? Does it make your brain hurt?
Topic by canida | last reply
Hello, i want to make a costume of the Guru-Guru from Legend of Zelda Ocarina of time ( http://www.zeldauniverse.net/images/games/oos/characters/guruguru.png ) And I want a crank that's on the front casing rotate the pipe that is in the other box, maybe something passing through the pipe that connects the two boxes, but I dont know how I could do it, anyone have any idea?
Question by toniko | last reply
When I load pages (here) with FF the spinney-thing spins until the page loads, right? I look at pages and say "it's loaded", it is loaded in functional-terms. Why doesn't that thing stop spinning ? Is it: a something never loads for me b something is actively monitoring what I'm doing ?
Question by lemonie | last reply
The idea is to have a rotary switch connected to a crank so that when the switch is turned on you can keep on spinning the crank and it won't utterly destroy the switch, also you could do the same backwards, spinning the crank in the other direction so the switch turns off, but you can keep spinning it without it damaging the switch. I can't really find a simple way to do it though, since I'm very inexperienced. Additionally, I would love suggestions to make the crank feel "heavier", like those emergency crank flash lights.
Question by Dokramuh | last reply
Question | last reply
The UK population has hit a 47-year high of 61 million, "...with changes in birth and death rates now a bigger cause of growth than immigration." (BBC).Less than 25% of all births in the UK are to mothers born outside the UK.What's the Daily Mail headline?The migrant baby boom: Foreign mothers help push Britain's population past 61mThe Daily Mail; racist in public, so you don't have to be.BBC versionDaily Mail VersionThe UK's changing demographic
Topic by Kiteman
I shoot yellow rods, green rods, blue rods, Oodammo, you name it, and they all are unstable and spin out. WHY IS IT SUDDENLY DOING THIS? It's really bothersome, it's messing up my aim and makes my gun looks bad. I have tried fins, but they only work at short distances. I'm only using 4 #64 bands on a black rod hammer, but why is it so unstable?
Topic by prodo123 | last reply
I just built a computer that uses about a year old power supply and it one day I heard it spinning. At first I thought that it was one of the system fans or a cpu fan but it turned out that the sound and vibrations all came from the power supply and it worried me. Is there any way I can fix it? it starts spinning up for half a second and five seconds later it spins up for another second, then three seconds later it spins up again. it does this all the time at random intervals. Is this a problem with the power supply (DPS-460DB-1A), motherboard (Gigabyte Z77-DS3H and i3 3240), OS (Mac and Windows do this), bios? please help. thanks
Question by tvsamuel | last reply
I want to make a spinning RGB led ball like the one from youtube, Look it up its pretty cool, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to make one and the guy REFUSES to give out instructions, All I know is that he used a green, red, and blue led. Motors, And "9 slip contacts" so it would all be able to spin and still have power. I have no idea how to make that I have two VCR heads, idk if they will help at all but I hear its kinda the same idea. Id also like to control motor speed/led's with my arduino if possible. And maybe program it to do a light show? Idk. but Id love some feedback.
Question by 'earl | last reply
Those of us who've been dreaming of cheap personal air travel in the Buck Rogers, sci-fi jet-pack mode should turn their eyes towards Vinci, Italy on May 25. That's when Gennai Yanagisawa, inventor of the tiny GEN H-4 personal helicopter, will be taking his lightweight 165-pound whirly-gig on a demonstration flight.Why Vinci? According to the 75-year-old Yanagisawa, "Since the concept of our helicopter came from Italy, I always wanted to take a flight in the birthplace of da Vinci." Indeed, Leonardo's famous notebook drawings from 1493 show an "ornithopter" with a screw-like rotor. Like da Vinci's pioneering design, Yanagisawa's GEN H-4 has no tail. Instead, twin counter-rotating propellers cancel out the torque that requires single-rotor helicopters to have a perpendicular tail rotor.The GEN H-4 personal helicopter is actually available for purchase now, though Yanagisawa's company (located in the Japanese city of Matsumoto) has so far sold only six (2 in the USA).The cost for one is a reasonable $58,250 and once airborne, the GEN H-4 can fly at a somewhat sedate speed of 31 mph - slow yes, but probably faster than rush hour traffic. Veni, vidi, volanti!It's the perfect commuter vehicle! Land on the roof of your office block, maybe it folds up, but certainly just push it into the corner to make space for your workmates to land. Sure, it only does 31mph, but it can go in a straight line, over the stationary traffic.Story on InventorSpot
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Which is better for making a homemade generator powered by the wind? Tesla model suggests coil spins inside of magnetic field but most electronic sites suggest having the magnets spin inside the coil windings. Are more amps produced by having the magnets spin inside the coil windings instead. Couldn't you just use most any (machine pre-wound) coils from motors rated from 1 - 5 hp. and make your own rotor where the magnets spin INSIDE the existing windings from those motors? Helpful to me since they are already rated with rpm speed. Why would you make your own with so many used motors available?
Question by SpeedRacerTerri | last reply
I have a hat that I attached a working battery-operated clock to. I would like to know if someone could create something for my wrist to cause the clock on my head to change. Ideally it was cause the hands to spin rapidly clockwise, counter clockwise, and return to normal function. Extra bonus for being able to set the right time from wrist, but not super important if it's crazy more work. I was thinking the wrist strap would have a Vortex Manipulator sort of look to it. The idea is that the hat and wrist item work together to be a time travel device. It's for a steampunk outfit. Any one think this is possible? Thanks! [EDIT: According to Radioshack, they believe I would need a special clock motor to accomplish this. Any idea of such a thing exists?]
Topic by hwiech | last reply
When ever I try and edit: https://www.instructables.com/id/EBBNPI9G2HE171A/ I get a spinning gear, from any computer, at any time of the day. - I have tried both at my home, and in my office with same results. Any Ideas? Thanks Jonathan (mac using latest firefox)
Topic by macgeek | last reply
Preferably one that's not excessively bulky. The balls in question are slightly larger than a golfball.
Question by Weather Report | last reply
Ok, first ill explain what I have built, and excuse me if it already exists, I can't even think of how to google/name it. A can floats in water, there is a candle in the can. On top of the can there is a propeller which is stuck to the can. The hot air rises and lets the fan (and therefore the whole can) spin. The power is very little and the can tends to move to a side of the bowl and that friction stops it. Is there a balance problem ? Is the not perfect propeller working like a sail and therefore pushing it to the side ? What could I do to let the can stay perfectly in the middle while spinning ? Thanks in advance.
Question by DaanV1 | last reply
Hi can anyone help me I need to build 2 model amusement park rides, the first one a ferris wheel this has been sorted out however the second one is a spinning teacup ride which I have no idea where to start with it. I have looked on the internet for ideas but no such luck. The spinning teacup ride has to be built out of cardboard and recycable items, this ride needs to include a mechanism that is housed in the structure. Has anyone built a model like this. Where can I find some help with this. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need help Please!
Topic by dromedarius | last reply
I have a 36V, 15.5A, 450W PM dc motor that i would like to use in a wind turbine, but is has quite a bit of resistance when spun by hand. what mods can be done to change this, if any?
Question by Safetylast | last reply
I just bought a used dewalt dw433 and it arrived DOA. It is the one with the sanding frame and don't want to have to send it back because I got it for a great price (now I know why). The motor runs (that is to say the armature spins), but the belt and the drive pulley does not. The motor gets electricity so the brushes and armature should be fine. But could this be a drive belt or a "field" problem? I am very mechanically inclined but have never dealt with this type of diagnosis/repair. I am sure I could fix it myself if I just found out what needs replacing. Please help!
Question by sbinig | last reply
Hey, so I was watching some of these videos about magnetic levitation, and I notices that some levitating globes don't have an electromagnet above the globe. Nor is the globe spinning very fast. This is one of the devices that I have seen, and I would like to know how it works so that I can build it....and maybe make an instructable along the way. Also, SimerLab has the levitation down pretty well. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks! Sam P.S. Found another good website here that has one taken apart (it was a Levitron AG). And this website has a kinda breakdown on how one might work, but it definitly isn't specific enought o build one.
Question by samr37l | last reply
See it as a last hurray before the forum here disappears ;)For ages we have people claiming that they managed to build a working magnet motor.Basically not even a perpetual motion engine but something with enough energy output to spare.As soon as they surfaced to make it all public the vanished.Most say they only vanished because it was just another fraud as those things simply can't work - physiscs won't allow it.If that was really always the case then why did some of these people AND their families disappear after till publishing details and being active in their communities?Either way: If there is a will then there is a backseat - or so they said in the 70's ;)People are still willing to fall for every foolish plan they can find on the net, waste their money and find out that, well, it just won't work.If you dig long and deep enough though you get a glimpse of what really is possible without violating our laws of physics.And yes, done and applied properly even a magnet motor is possible.The do's and don'ts of trying to build a magnet motor:Once you got hooked you have to start somewhere.Usually some V-gate or similar that ALMOST worked for you already.Anyway, you will have to encounter the appearently only reason why these motors won't work rather quickly.It seems impossible to provide accelleration without having at least point in the cycle where the binding can't be overcome through inertia or mechanical trickery.So the first thing you really need to learn is to forget what you already know!Treat magnets like a think you never knew at all, something rare and very special.Don't use your schoolbook knowldege or what you learnt at university - only use what you discover yourself!!!Make your conclusions no matter how wrong they seem - you will find out soon enough if something was flawed.I, for example, "wasted" endless hours when there was nothing on TV.Just some good music running and playing around with my magnets.Adding metal strips, filing them down, seeing how they react at different angles and distances to each other.Once you are at the stage of getting over this last bit of forces that ruins it all you need to learn how to think totally out of the box!You can't see the magnetic field lines, can't really use magntic viewer foils on the running thing - you have to try things!Take 5 magnets and create and array with a very strong pole on one side and a very weak on the other - realise that the manetic field lines don't care whether or not they go back to their own magnet!See for yourself how strips of metel from some old transformer core will provide a pathway for those field lines.See for yourself where the "threshold" is from just "shielding" a part of the magnet to "re-shaping" the field itself.See for yourself how a magnet that you bring close to one pole also affects the opposite pole of the "attacked" magnet ;)And did I already say you should try to forget what you think you know until you could actually check it and all possible variations yourself? ;)Butter on the toast....For mostly the reason to keep it shorter I just assume you tried to build something based on the classic V-gate motor and that you found this topic somehow...For other motors most of what comes now still aplies in one way or another though.Binding:I speak of binding if a motor has one or more points during a full cycle where it gets stuck.Not just a bit of attraction, enough to ruin the entire motion.There are two forms of binding forces that I identified as important.1. Opposite poles.2. Equal poles.Just means your binding is either caused by too much attraction to move further or that the next (set of) magnet(s) repells too much.Either is bad ;)Redirected forces:It is a bit impossible to only provide a force in the exactly needed direction.For example when it is more displacement forces driving the wheel - going more sideways than in a true rotional motion.Means nothing more than that a lot of potential energy is literally wasted.Shielding:You can't shoild magnetic fields!I still use the term to indicate that I am "wasting" a part of the magetic field - I don't want this bit to interfere with operations.Flux directing:Or fluxing...I use this whenever I want to affect the shape or reach of a magnets field.E.g.: by adding a rod to "extend" one pole or by providing a "shunt" strip between two magnets.A way to get field lines where they are needed most.So much for the basic terms that might pop up from now on ;)Before you can worry about lost energy from redirected forces you need to overcome your binding points.This is only possible through shielding and flux directing!Of course it also includes the possibe use of arrays to create a field with a specific shape.Let me try with some classic examples you might have faced already:Where your V changes from wide to slim you always get stuck, so you did it again by using two V's in line.Hoping that you could use what one V has in excess to overcome the binding on the ther side.Nice thinking only you forgot that your max power output is about half way through the V ;)So you realised this and added two more V's on your roll with a 120° phase shift.Does much better now but still prefers to bind no matter what you try.So what went wrong?The approach did ;)You compensated for a binding force by wasting what you have in rotational energy - to say it simple.You might have tried some mechanical lifting and flipping as well to get closer but never close enough.Our first array....By now you realised that the junction between wide open and really narrow ruins your motor.Check where the thing stops without the next magnets in line.Then check the opposite arrangement and see where the next bit would stop the thing.This is your binding area.Mark this area.Now test where your machine creates the most pull or push to get it going.Do this by finding the strongest starting point.Mark this again.Now take a look at your markings!You will see a angular relation.E.g.: You max push/pull is 50° away from your max binding point.This angle defines how many parallel V-gates you need on your drum.You want then arranged so that whenever you have a max binding point you also have a max push/pull point at the same time.This is you basic V-Gate array allowing you compensate for a lot just by using a better design.Or second array....We now need a way to compensate at least a little bit of the binding forces by redirecting and shielding some field lines.If you like fairy floss then grab some ;)We face the problem that we use a displacemnt force to keep things rolling.Fairy floss on a stick can help to visualise ;)Grab two sticks so their stick end comes out either side of your fist.Do the same with the other hand.Having two colors helps as well and gives it some flavour.Try to align those double cones so they create areas where their forces would cancel ech other out.Meaninf for example when one north pole is close enough to another south pole to create a flattened field.You realise soon that angles are not really that relevant here, only distance ;)You can cheat by adding some (smaller but strong) magnets in little arrays between the closed and open ends of your V.Keep the distances from the previous power tests in mind though!!!For example if the closed end would just keep pushing with little binding due to having a long magnet bar on top then you focus on providing a path where the adverse push from the open V is mostly compensated.Or third array...We need some balance in the system now, so why not use magnets for the weights ;)You want to place them so they increase the push/pull forces!Helps to have a big collection of various sizes and shapes....Please also consider strips or bars of silicicium rich steel (transformer cores) to brigde from one magnet to another to get a good balanced system or just adding short pieces on the underside of magnets.Ok, where are we now?We have a phase shifted array of 3 to 6 V-gates.We have it properly balanced and still use these long mangets as the driving bars on top - or even multiple if you have more than one V per array part.And that thing is causing all our binding issues.....Common solution is now to just lift the offending bar up or to increase the distance until it can provide force again that we need.Unless you are already an artsist for building you own little steam engines froms cratch it is the worst possible approach.Creates too much friction, uses to much energy!We think we are almost there.....We can't waste ANY energy until we figured out how to get more than enough of it.A mechanical gear system is far from perfect but offers precision.A simple push rod solution works well too if properly balanced and the mechanics allow for a smooth operation.I leave it up to your what you prefer.We can't just change the lenght of our magnet bar but we can cheat - a lot.One good option to check for yourself how a magnet if a fixed rotational thingy reacts when you spin a magnet close by.Even with really good bearings you will realise the binding forces between them are not equal if you keep the same distance while rotating.Now re-think your engine desing - I know it hurst if ou realise now your magnet arrangement wasn't ideal.Do you have a north-south bar on top of a V with one row of magnets facing north and the other facing south?Really I am sorry if you do but it is not all lost unless you glued your magnets in place as a permanent solution.You can leave it if you wish but it might be harder to apply the required cheats - there is ways if you look good ;)Why a V-gate where both rows of magnets are orientated the same way?It is just easier and more flexible as you then can focus on the driving bar(s) ;)Let me explain the difference as I see it:With a fixed north and south pole on your bar you seem to be able to use "more" of the magnets.And it seems to be the logical way at a first glance.But now that you learned and discovered so much yourself already, ask yourself:Does it really matter if there a north and south pole available on the bar?Wouldn't two rows of north facing magnets with matching magnets on the bar to the same things?They would....And in such an arrangement we have almost endless ways to "cheat" physics as we know it.Especially if you have two V's per drum and have one facing north and the other south ;)For the standard single V the trick is to rotate the "magnet bar" in a controlled way so when the binding forces of the V are max the forces the bar can apply are minimised.You can see that nicely if you manually rotated the wheel and watch how the bar reacts to the field.At some points it wants to push, at others pull and at still others it would love to just flick over - use this behaviour in your rotating mechanism!You want to keep the max possible forces for the longest possible time and keep the flicking over time in sync with the drum rotation.Look up on the many ways to do a flipping motion by mechanical means to see how you can best implent one into a rotary action.If you were a really good observer during your experiments you now realise that you start to also deal with friction and mechanical losses and counteracting forces.We can not reduce all of them to zero by simple cheats and mechanical solutions.Whenever we try we must do this in the most efficient way possible - even if it means cheating on our own constructions.Remember playing with the magnets to see how they react at various distances to each other and ferrous metals? ;)There is a fine line between too much and too little ;)Try for yourself on your whell with a simple bar mechanism that allow distance adjustment.Do you really get mor "driving" force the closer you get with the bar? ;)Where is the point between effective force and you needing too much force to keep the bar at this distance? ;)Do you notice how the distance affects the forces in your binding areas? ;)Cheating the cheat ;)Now that we have to find the opimal distance for our bar to avoid changing this ones as well on a constant base during the rotation, we should see how to make this the least energy wasting.You need some sort of counter balance for your mechanics and it would be nice to somehow affect our bar magnets so we don't need to much mechanical energy to make them rotated and flick over.Why not use a drum around them ? ;)When you need a reduced force you can have a metal (ferrous of course) roatate in place.As a drum you would just cut out the parts you don't need and add weight where needed to compensate the imbalance in the mechanical system.Like for example having the most "shielding" metal between bar and drum when the binding forces would be max.Hence the need for correct distance to prevent unwanted binding forces from the drum parts ;)You can even influence the width of your magnetic bar to some extend this way ;)If done properly you now wasted a few weeks in your shed and have a motor that still is only very close to keep running forever once you gave it a little push.Let's say you did a really bad job.Means you still have one or more destinct binding points left.In this case I suggest you focus on them after finding out if they are mechanical or magnetic in origin.If you did a half decent job then your machine should be able to start running from multiple points in the rotation.But not in some others.Perfect would be two equally sized areas per revolution where it seems the thing would just need to be started a few degrees later to overcome the power loss.If you reached the max point and going a few degrees more again start to reduce the power output you are good to go.What exactly haapend so far, assuming all is still well in your shed?We tricked our system in various ways to actually utilise the push/pull forces our motor provides.And we learned what to do and how to do it so we overvome almost everything.Just to finally fail like all those idiots on the net before - or did we??? ;)Isn't there something really vital we missed in our construction while we cheated so much?There is but I can't blame you if you have not picked it up much earlier in your construction.We rotate our magnet bar now to compensate for the binding effect by mecahnical means.Ever wondered if we could more rotation and changing orientations in our V?The magnets won't mind too much if they are put in with north and south alternating as long as you rotate the bar correspondingly.Just instead of one spin or flip during max binding you do it for every single magnet in the row.... ;)The shielding drum though operates as normal with this.Bit complicated, lots of mechanical design involved - I know!!!And for what exactly???To use what have not even touched yet - electrical energy produced by our now alternating drum ;)I know :( Now you are whacking your head against the wall like I did so many years ago, sorry for that experience!But would it mean that coils will cause additional losses and binding forces?Of course it does, that's why it is so much fun trying to cheat physics!This approach is usually just neglected due to the ill thinking that a magnet motor would provide free energy for everyone.Simple fact is that no matter how good you are it will be impossible to get more than a magnetic machine that almost works forever - you won't be able to compensate for all losses and utilise them as energy unless you either have multiple high degrees or spend a lot of time in your shed - a lot...Since a full rebuild is now due anyway I leave it up to you to figure out how desgin it, I just throw in some "ideas" here:We only use the outside of our magnetic drum, this needs to change.And before you go into a mechanical frency to figure how to place inner magnets that rotate with the drum to compensate for dead zones: Just don't! You will get a headache and waste too much time.We can use all those inwards facing magnets to our advantage though.A lot of the arrays, if not all, could be replaced by creating a rotor to hold the magnets.Not in the traditional sense though but to guide the field lines to a common center.There is a need for a rather wide distance between the magnets so you can provide a ferrous pathway that won't just fully shortcut the fields.It needs to be enough so that a coil array placed on the inside will be subjected to changing fields- north south...I leave it up to to decide if a low resistance or ahigher output voltage is the better option.Either way we are able to produce some electrical energy as long as the drum rotates.But we only need extra energy for those ares where the system does not produce extra energy and in fact eats all our energy up.One way would be to store the electrical energy in a nice supercapacitor and to use it for some electromagnet that is placed in the right spot and activates at the right time.And yes it works.Far better though is to utilise resonance.We aim for a fully harmonic system so we can actually try to figure out where and if there is a way to produce more neergy that what we feed into it.Perpetual motion means a system produces enough energy to sustain motion.If motion is sustained AFTER getting to a certain speed by other means it is perpetual from then on.We have the impossible if a machine produces more energy than what is required for the motion AND if we can utilise this power.Sadly we have no means to utilise friction energy....So a machine that sustains motion would already be in what is called "over unity" !?In a sense yes, but not in a usable as it will discredit you quickly.A resonant electrical system is able to handle way more energy with way less resistance - or losses.Now to give you the final homework lesson and risk being watched again:What do you think happens if a resonant LC system has a set of rotating magnets at a matching speed? ;)Right! It won't be able to stay in sync because we still have this firction and "binding" problem on our hands.....What does that mean in reality though?The spacing of the rotor is critical, that is clear already,And our electrical system is never fully in sync with our drum, clear again.But it is still a resonant system, totally unclear, now I lost you ;)See it as two independent frequencies, one defined by rotor spacing and our desired operational speed, the other what results from our losses and running slightly behind.Imagine you would finetune the LC system to actually match the frequency that results from the losses....Suddenly it is not longer tuned to a theoretical speed but to the real speed.And due the the now full resonace the phase shift now is able to provide extra push for our system ;)Explains nicely why basically all magnet motor machines that claimed to work and disappeared only worked at a fixed speed ;)What are the final conclusions here then - is it really possible to do the impossible?I say it depends on your time, workshop and willingness to think out of the box.Impossible, certainly not.In case you came to the same impossible conclusion after neglecting your family and friends for weeks you now wonder how much more might be possible than just keeping it going for almost forever.For this you need to understand and basically feel how magnetic field lines interact and react, including electromagnetic fields.A magnetic field is a form of energy.We usually created this by putting an awful lot of energy into coild during the manufacturing process.And like a battery magnets lose their energy over the time, especially in bad conditions.Still we treat this energy as unusable because we can't seen to be able to utilise static fields at all.If neither the coil, nor the magnet moves there is no change in field and with that no electricity.Does that mean though the megnetic energy does not go through the coil? ;)Nope, it is still there, going nowhere.Otherwise we would not need power plants and just use earth's magnetic field instead.Now to drive your brain into true overdrive for the final:Did you ever watch these nice videos where a great physics teacher of the old kind shows how (AC) electromagnetic field work?Or maybe you had one of those in school?Remember how a metal cylinder placed ner a tall electromagnet starts spinning?Often used to explain the righthand rule ;)The cylinder spins due to the eddy currents created - like the disk did in your old school electrical meter in the fuse box.And doesn't our drum now support a changing magnetic field on the inside while it rotates?What do you think happens to "drums" placed off center and close to those magnets? You think they would spin?And, if made from aluminium or copper, wouldn't the field lines stillpass through and reach the electrical coil(s) ;)Couldn't you utilise the drum motion during the times of not enough spin? ;)Considering they are basically short cut inductors: Couldn't you use a "coil" that still spins while producing electricity? ;)Once you can answer this with confidence you will know how to build a magnet motor able to produce excess energy.I am not saying it is easy to include all this knowledge into a simple and basic design.But I do say that one you understand the relation between static permanent magnetic fields and electromagnetic ones you are a winner.I'll give you one final hint:Every electrical current or electromagnetic field near enough to a permanent magnet will influence its field!You only need to decide where the electrical energy is used to influence permanent magnets is a positive way without using more than what the system is able to provide.Then, and only then, will you motor to be able to start (with no load) from any position and keep gaining speed until resonance is reached.The amount of energy you can draw once this speed is reached is only defined by how much it drives the system out of resonance.Once the load is greater than what the system can sustain the speed slows, resonance is lost, efficiency down the drain.A good motor of desktop size is able to provide about 100W of extra electrical energy.And no it still isn't over unity or perpetual at all!The magnets deplete and they do it surprisingly fast in a working magnet motor.You are lucky get 6 months of continious use before one or more magnets get too weak.And if you check how much electrical energy was used to give these magnets their abilities you realise that even two years of usage wouldn't make up for it.Still nice to have a machine that runs for a few years with no load attached or that powers some fan, lamp, whatever for a few weeks without batteries or fuel.
Topic by Downunder35m
Howdy Folks, I'm doing an art piece that will require many small motors and know nothing about them or even where to start looking. What I'm thinking is something similar to a clock that will spin 3-4 roundish cast paper layers (one nests inside the other) on the same axis but at different speeds and maybe different directions. Initially I had thought about using small battery operated clocks but I need something with more options. Each layer will be lightweight (made of paper) and the speeds will be relatively slow. Since I may need about 30 of them I'd prefer them to be inexpensive. And, since I'm new to this area of knowledge I need them to be relatively simple. Grateful for any suggestions! Thank you in advance. Cheers.
Question by leelu9 | last reply
I need to get two small tubes (one slightly bigger then the other) and to have each hold a lens and be adjustable (rotationally)? That is, they rotate along the axis of the tube (as if holding the two lens near one another and turning one). I have several options and am not able to purchase anything at the moment (or I'd get some small plastic piping that fit fairly well together). Any ideas?
Question by Goodhart | last reply
Question by zleebme | last reply
Hi All, I have been trying to DIY a solar powered turn table, those made for spinning small figurines round and round. However, the research I've done so far on turning dc motors as slow speeds have not been so successful. Things like using PWM, variable resistors, all doesn't seem to work well with a solar panel. Does anyone have any idea how I can approach this? Thanks! A sample is www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6184
Topic by edwardchuajh | last reply
I'm currently working on a POV hard drive clock. Instead of designing and building a separate circuit to drive the motor in the hard drive, I thought I'd just power the circuit board of the hard drive and let that spin the motor itself. I gave it gnd, 5v and 12v and it spun up, fast and stable too. ~30 seconds later, it stopped spinning and the only way to make it spin again was to turn the power off and turn it on again. Obviously this isn't good for a hard drive clock as it needs to be spinning constantly So how can I make the hard drive spin constantly? Can I pulse a request line on the IDE cable every once in a while or do I need to actually transfer data to and from the hard drive? If it isn't too complicated I could program a PIC chip to talk to the hard drive to keep it spinning but I'm not sure about the structure of the data or how to talk to the hard drive. Anyone know the simplest way to keep it spinning? Thanks, Louis.
Question by lofty | last reply
I played around with some balls placed into the airstream of a little blower. Everything light enough just "danced" in the air like being hold on invisible strings. But not so much the golf ball! You would expect those dimples are good for reducing air friction but do they also offer stability in some cases by making the ball spin? Check this video I recorded while playing - to me it looks like with a proper nozzle there is even more speed possible. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=014QkXuTL0o How fast can you make it spin?
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Do most power tools (such as Drill Press, Circular Saw, Table Saw, Router, Compound Miter Saw, Disc Sander), come with built in "brake" mechanism which will help slow the tool down once the energy is cut off? My Compound Miter had a functioning brake that later stopped working. I have very hit and miss experience with this. Some do sometimes, and others never do at all. OK, My tools aren't high end makes. My brands lean more toward the Chinese vs the Swiss. Waiting on the tool to spin down to stop tests my patience. Perhaps there is something simple I cound modify to enable a reasonable brake function. (I'm hoping to do a tweak as opposed to taking metal to smelter and starting over) Any thoughts? Any help is Greatly appreaciated! BOB Z
Topic by bobzjr | last reply
Question by jodi8727 | last reply
I'm going to start making my own crib mobile but I don't want to play music while it spins, I just want it to spin. Is there a way to make my mobile just spin? The picture on the bottom it what I would need to buy if I want it to spin but it play music too.
Topic by Fallen_Siren | last reply
How can I turn the spinning of a small wheel/gear into electricity and then subsequently charge a battery with it??
Topic by SiliconSoul | last reply
One of the Squid Labs spin-out companies is hiring! Come work with us in the control tower!The technology that this spin-out is developing is not yet public, so in the job description below, it is simply referred to as "Squid Labs." The job will require full-time attention to the spin-out, and so while you will technically be at Squid Labs, the job is not with Squid Labs. Hopefully, I've made that perfectly muddy. If you can understand that (and make it clear that you understand it in your cover letter!) and have the required qualifications, you're probably a good fit. Electrical EngineerSquid Labs is a rapidly growing Bay Area start-up that aims to revolutionizerenewable energy generation. Squid Labs is engaged in a research anddevelopment effort to produce novel systems for both centralized anddistributed energy generation systems. Squid Labs is seeking a talented andmotivated power electronics engineer. The ideal candidate will haveextensive experience with motor controller development (AC induction andPM, three phase brushless motors) and the associated power electronicssystems combined with an inventive resourcefulness to quickly executeprototype solutions in the field. Further, this candidate would be familiarwith the startup environment and the associated hours, deadlines and high-energy culture that go with launching innovative new products.The Power Electronics Engineer will be responsible for:- Self-directed research and cooperating with an interdisciplinary team- Rapidly developing and building solutions to complex high powerproblems- Development of analytical models to make decisions on specific andglobal aspects of system architectureThe candidate should have the following qualifications:- PhD or equivalent in Electrical Engineering- 5+ years of experience in analogue/digital/power electronics o standalone and grid-connected power electronics o motor control for motion and generation o single-board computer development for control o digital/analogue signal conditioning o sensor and actuator development and integration- Experience with data analysis and model verification- Understanding of control theory for SISO and MIMO systems- Appreciation for the natural environment and a strong desire to workon renewable energy technologyPlease send resumes to email@example.com
Topic by ewilhelm | last reply
I am just going to say before I start that this is not a flame thread, and I just want to see how everyone feels about this. I do not want any immaturity or namecalling here. Any comments, from anyone, that include namecalling will be flagged.Now, a while ago Radioactive started a competition for those who were not included in the 'Grand Knex Snob Expert Contest' (Is that right, Radio?) What I am suggesting is that we run a smaller competition for those that have not earned the title of Knexpert (a term which I feel is used too loosely these days). It can run after the TGKT, and can be run by a party that would not wish to participate. People who were in the TGKT would not be able to enter, to give the less experienced a chance.
Topic by knexguy | last reply
Hey guys, i was wondering if perhaps someone has a similar drive like mine.For some reason, on my ibook, when plugged into firewire, it powers down automatically after 5 or so minutes of not being used, that's good. But I just cleared it off and formatted it for NTFS and put it on my server, via firewire aswell, and while data transfer and everything seems to be fine, the hard drive does not spin down, ever. And when I feel it, I can feel the heads clicking, when there's no program accessing it on my server that I can see. Perhaps it doesn't get the chance to spin down..Either way, I'm concerned about the heat it makes, and mostly, about it's longevity. Does anyone have a solution?? Is there some patch for xp that makes external drives power down??
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
I have been entering the realm of high powered rocketry and have been having trouble with my rocket frame design. My rockets accelerate from the ground at 20 m/s2 with a custom built rocket motor which weighs 80 grams, the problem I have is that the rocket spins head over tail after take off at around 10 revolutions per sec. I suspect that the design is too tail heavy... The specifications for the rocket are; Height 40cm Fins 9 by 5 cm 90o triangles x 3 Width 5 cm Any help will be praised appropriately.
Question by Tombini | last reply
I bought a record player recently but teh wheel goes WAY too fast making the records sound like chipmunks... There is no speed control on this player so is there any way i can slow this down?
Question by Lneustel | last reply
I have a ps2 slim modded with modbo 2.1 one a bunch of friends and i played it out for like 8 hours after tht it just seemed that the laser was not readding properly and sent it to someone to clean the lens they did but it did not improve actually over time it got worse and worse so i brought a laser off ebay and it looked all good but when installed the motor does not spin anymore any suggestions on why this is happening
Question by bug on fire | last reply