Stain glass window. I have an old stain glass window that I will be putting in an interior wall of my new home. I need to repair the frame and fix a feew small crackes in the glass. Thanks for any help. Pat
Question by paddycake | last reply
Stain glass window. I have an old stain glass window that I will be putting in an interior wall of my new home. I need to repair the frame and fix a feew small crackes in the glass. Thanks for any help. Pat
Question by paddycake | last reply
How do you remove the faux stained glass from a window?
Question | last reply
Just wondering is there such a thing? If it does, what would it be called? I'm looking for some kind of window film that can maximize the natural sunlight coming in, yet at the same time deflect most (if not all) of the heat. Some kind of film that can be layered/sticked onto windows, glass. Been googling around to no avail. Any kind of help is appreciated
Topic by Chein | last reply
20-30 students in class will be making faux stained glass Easter/cross design, 12x18" approximate size. Where could we purchase pieces of plexi/acrylic glass to accomodate their design?
Question by jaycvandfive | last reply
HI all, I've been looking all over, but with no success. How would one go about staining the base of a wine glass? I have no idea what kind of pigment to apply to the base to make it coloured (but translucent) or how to apply it. It seems like a nice way to bring together a mismatched bunch of glasses, but I haven't found a way to actually do it. Any help is welcomed!
Topic by setekh | last reply
To decorate a shop window, I have a colorful large foamed PVC sheet (1.5 x 6 meters) want to stick with the shop window, color side of the PVC sheet face out. Please recommend a cost effective transparent adhesive. (similar as attached image without frame)
Question by ericzheng | last reply
I'm writing a zombie apocalypse fiction story and in one scene, one of the militia has to eavesdrop on a survivor gathering through a padded window using a stethoscope modified to fit onto a walkie-talkie earpiece microphone (the type that's along the same wire as the earpiece). The stethoscope would be placed against the glass window. The eavesdropped survivor leader is using a loud announcement voice with no acoustic assistance, in the middle of, say, a 20m x 10m x 3m lobby. The sound would (theoretically) reverberate through the glass window and into the stethoscope, which would focus all that sound down into the mic, which is transmitted by the connected walkie-talkie to our actual listener that hears it several kilometers away through the second, receiving radio. Notwithstanding the padded window (since the character finds a hole) and assuming the transmitted signal isn't distorted at all, how bad would the audio fidelity be for the listener? Would you still be able to understand audible speech? Would listening with stethoscopes through glass windows even work?
Topic by nutsandbolts_64 | last reply
I have a bunch of low e, argon filled double pane windows that I want to build a greenhouse with. Will the plants inside the greenhouse be adversely effected by this type of glass? I am not a "sciency" type - please advise me.
Question by Taskar | last reply
Hi I was doing some resources on how to achieve a rear projection on transparent surfaces like glass, but without of much success (there are projects on this site, but all are using a black projection material). I would like to do it on a shop window using a projector. I have found out that I need some special foil to get this working, but most of them are black and not transparen and there are a lots of brands. I am wondering if there would be a DIY solution, maybe a frosted white sticker cut to the size would work, to still keep a level of transparency on of the window. Suggestions are welcomed! Thanks!
Topic by vedtam | last reply
I am a stained glass artisan. I am working on a project where I need to add some detail to a few of the pieces on the panel I am constructing. The detail I want to add to 5 of the pieces cannot be added using traditional stained glass techniques. Specifically, I need to draw a few short black lines on the 5 pieces. I want the lines to be a permanent part of the stained glass panel. Also, I cannot bake the pieces to cure the paint; hence, the paint must be air dried cured. What type of paint should I use? Are there special techniques in applying the paint? How long, after application of the paint, does it take to completely cure the paint? I really appreciate your help.
Question by wlrogers43 | last reply
Side and rear windows are tempered so that they shatter into relatively harmless chunks on impact. But windshields are laminated, so that even though they shatter, all of the pieces are kept in place. Why is this? It seems that if a laminated windshield shatters/spiderwebs and remains in place, it would completely obscure the driver's vision while he is trying to control the car. Additionally, if someone is thrown from the car, through the windshield, they would be cut by the glass shards that are stuck to the laminate. So why are windshields laminated, or more importantly, why aren't all windows in a car made of the same type of glass?
Question by JamesRPatrick | last reply
I have standard wood windows in our home where we should have spent the money and bought good, double-pane aluminums, but didn't so.... I need some advice. These windows I have are too new, to replace. There are small recesses on the exterior of the wood window frames where I want to insert permanent glass/plexiglass cover for insulation. I need advice on what framing I can use, similar to a poster frame trim where I can install it around the glass, then slide it into the window recess. I’d like to use an aluminum trim that is fairly narrow that would look good. I find framing trim that has slots I can slide the glass into, but what I’m finding is too thick. I only have about quarter inch I can insert to. Any advise?
Topic by opc167 | last reply
I need to keep ferrofluid from staining the glass container it resides in. The fluid will be in the container for a long time, so the solution has to last a long time as well.
Ok, so there's a hurricane coming, and my friend said he's taping his windows. so i'm like: wtf is taping your windows? and he says covering your windows in tape makes them more durable to shattering, if you use masking tape. Masking tape? he said it was some trick that was very well known... he called me an idiot... i got all confused why he expected me to know... i argued why i should know, then he hung up, and got all pissed at me for some wierd reason...so i just need to know: what's the deal with this trick i've never heard of?
Topic by AnarchistAsian | last reply
Today winter showed its presence here. nights with lightnings and thunders i want to get a glass roof and sleep under it outside ! or atleast to stick my head to the window of my room *tries to set up the computer desk next to the window and throw a mat over it*
Topic by 11010010110 | last reply
I have double pane, insulating glass house windows that collect condensation during the winter heating months. The condensation is not between the panes, it is inside the home. The water builds up and runs down onto the wood frame causing rot. It occurs only on the bottom inch or two of the window. The home is in Northern Wisconsin where it is commonly 20 deg F outside and 70 deg F inside. The interior humidity is controlled and not excessive. Aside from setting the interior humidity to desert-like conditions, how can I remove the moisture and prevent further damage to the frame? Desiccant bags? Solar powered fans? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Topic by kwschofi | last reply
I have a couple of windows at work, that have this cloudy appearance on them. When they are still somewhat wet, just after I clean them, they look good until it drys. The haze and or cloudy appearance is still there. I'm guessing it's from the sprinklers and or whatever is in the water and baking in the sun for twenty years. Does anyone know how I can get this window clean and clear to see through again?
Question by lthoreson | last reply
Question by sssusie61 | last reply
I'm looking to bond a bifurcated ceramic fish figurine to a glass window, such that half the fish is outside (exposed to the elements) and half is inside the house. The fish figurine is not perfectly smooth, but it's close. I live in Ohio, so external temperatures will range from 0 f to 100 f. What do you recommend? B.
Question by rkgfish | last reply
What does a municipality do with old traffic lights? Why, they can make them into dinner plates! Recycled Glassworks makes plates from old traffic light covers from retired lights, often the ones replaced with the newfangled LED kind. Oddly, the green lights end up as blue plates... dunno if this is an artifact of the plate-making process or if the light behind is very yellow, necessitating a blue "green" light.But while that's probably their most dramatic product, there's another. Most glass recycling is limited to bottles and jars. The only thing to do with broken windows, or broken glass tabletops, or other glass of this kind, has been to throw it away. Recycled Glassworks accepts this kind of glass in addition to the traffic light kind. They cut it to size and kiln-bake it in a mold (a process called slumping) to produce extremely attractive bowls and plates.Way to go, Recycled Glassworks!
Topic by rachel | last reply
The stuff I'm thinking about , I've seen as a kids craft thing, abit like stained glass effect,like bubbles liquid but then it dries like a plastic film?? help please!!!?
Question by popeyeippy | last reply
I have windows on my 3rd floor that are PLEXIGLASS, because of the unique window design(s), and they are FROSTED GLASS SPRAYed for privacy reasons but now it's time to change this idea and remove it all, SAFELY. Problem is: Keep in mind that it's Plexiglass, a petroleum based product and using the wrong remover can, potentially, destroy it. I hesitate to TEST-AREA as if it does, the plexiglass is damaged for life. My objective is the TRIED AND TRUE method(s). Thoughts??
Question by Stevedaoust | last reply
Is it feasible to create double glazed or triple glazed windows at home where one can not fill-in the special gases between the gaps but just create triple or double layered glass panels. Will it help to create a wall between extreme temp differences? What are the possible alternatives to commercial TG and DG windows? thank you for your answers
Question by muhammajunaid | last reply
I like letting the outside air blow through my apartment, but I also like the temperature and humidity to be in a good range. So I go around opening all the windows when it's a good temperature outside, and then forgetting to close them later. I wish windows could be programmed to open themselves automatically to regulate the temperature. I bet this could save a lot of money on heating and air conditioning, while allowing fresh air from outside to come in. I'm imagining a bunch of slats of glass that can rotate like Venetian blinds that are controlled by bimetallic strips or something :) Maybe there would be two layers for better insulation, and one layer could open to allow more heat exchange but not air flow, and both could open at the same time to allow air to flow. For modifying an already-existing window, it would have to install motors and stuff. Anyone have any ideas about how something like this could be made?
Topic by endolith | last reply
My car window regulator broke so I had to hold up my window with thick black duct tape. It baked in the sun and the adhesive hardened on the car paint and glass. What is the most effective and safe manner in which to remove this hardened duct tape adhesive without damaging the car paint or window?
Question by nisvara | last reply
Winter is coming like they say on the wall...For me it means I need to find some option to increase the insulation rating of these old windows.3mm thick glass in not really fully sealing sliding frames is a pain.For my last place I had the permission to put proper foil on the windows at my costs.I guesstimated what I need and just ordered the required amount on a roll.That was a few years back though and now prices exploded.Last time I had to pay around $3 AU per meter, now the same material is quoted at $14.95 AU per meter :(My windows go from floor to ceiling and at these prices covering them would cost me more than a months rent.I am sure insulating window tint is available outside AU as well.Does anyone know any sources with half decent prices and low shipping costs?Found one supplier in the US willing to ship to AU but was quoted over $100US for the shipping of one roll (120m).Means all up I would be looking at still a bit over $600US plus postage and there must be cheaper options :(
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
I need to glaze 16 small panes (430 x 275 mm) in very strong, cast aluminium window frames (8 per frame, either side of the door). Is 3 mm frosted polycarbonate going to be impact resistant enough to keep people out? The building these windows are part of is in a fairly remote place, so security is a concern but for cost and aesthetic reasons we don't want to glaze with glass and install a metal security screen. The current ugly solution is boarding them up and securing with screws but this doesn't allow us light inside. Cost is a consideration since I've been given permission by the company that owns the land to reglaze them and if I provide the labour they will supply the materials. 16 off 3 mm sheets, £3.85 each = £61.60 16 off 4 mm sheets, £5.14 each = £82.24 16 off 6 mm sheets, £7.70 each = £123.20 I've found lots of sites shouting "yeah polycarb is badass! It's unbreakable!" but not one that gives an idea for thinner sheets. Am I wasting money by going for thicker sheets? Or if someone's trying to get in might a 3 mm sheet be breakable?
Question by Jayefuu | last reply
My dash-cam in the car has no problem, the video comes out fine. it may be 6 inches away from the windshield. i tried the same camera in my 1960's apartment door peephole. The outside glass is about 2 inches square . i want to be able to make a wifi or net cam to be able to see who is at the door via the monitor. i get a big reflection from the glass that is an inch or two away.? i tried the another camera at a friends house, shooting through the small windows by the door, same reflection. some kind of anti glare coating or film ? thank you
Question by escapefromyonkers | last reply
Along with a few flat glass shelves, I was given two large curved glass deli cabinet doors as shown in the image below. They still have the aluminum bars attached to the long ends. One the top side that was formerly attached to a hinge mechanism and one being the lower side that formerly held a rubber seal. I only have the doors, as the rest of the cabinet was used for another purpose or recycled by the previous owners. I'm trying to come up with a project to repurpose them for, but I'm drawing a blank. They are about 4 feet long and 2 feet wide with no cracks. They appear to be tempered glass and are very heavy. Here are some ideas: - large vertical display cabinets made from wood with the glass doors on the front of them might work by using the short ends as the top and bottom. - large horizontal display cases made from wood with the glass doors as the top or front and access to the rear. - Some sort of greenhouse window. - I eventually would like to build a house out of shipping containers. Incorporating these into the plans as windows would be cool as long as I can figure out how to frame them out to give a good seal. perhaps as a skylight? (Of course, not being double paned, they wouldn't have much of an R-value). - Something artistic that can utilize the glass panes and be hung on a wall or used as a display. I have access to a Hackerspace in St. Louis, Missouri with plenty of tools and other raw materials. The pieces are so large that I'd have to work on the project and clean up each day rather than leave the project out. It's a shared space, so I don't want my stuff to be in the way of others. Any input from the Instructables community would be helpful.
Topic by GeekTinker | last reply
If you think about the amount of square footage that your average window or sliding glass door has, that's a LOT of potential space for solar panels! Are there any manufacturers that do this or has anyone here posted something about this?
Question by javajunkie1976 | last reply
I want to mak a kinetic light using high-powered LEDs to produce glitter line through a thin layer of agitated turbulent water in a wall mounted shelf. So, this gives me a few questions, but let me start with the idea I've got. I want to seperate a shelving unit (preferably solid wood not particleboard with some decent HxDxW) into two compartments. A glass sheet would be slid into grooves onto the side supports. The upper portion of the shelving unit would then be wood, waterproofed with some thin styrene plastic sheets. The bottom would then be composed of a large aluminum sheet (recessed slightly upwards for astheatics) which would house several LEDs in addition to the power adapter and voltage regulator. This would likely follow the "powering high powered LED" tutorial's alternate power source to the pucks. At this point a small pump would be placed into the upper compartment along with just enough water to submerge the pump to a safe level. Perhaps a small recess would be included in the top to allow instant colour shifts by using stained clear plastic sheets (this would reduce total illumination, but these are to be mood/ambient accents not primary lighting source) to avoid any of the more expensive/complex colour shifting lamps. The big question I have at this point is how thermally safe this would be, and how much LED I would actually need to achieve decent brightness. Also, I would prefer if the bottom was modular enough I could remove and work on it without dissasembling the entire assembly, but this may not be possible. Finally, I was wondering if I could run the heatsink material up the ront of the shelf, past the glass, and into the water (this should give great heat dissipation) and have a SAFE and STABLE waterproof join between a flush glass-metal joint with possible use of epoxy and/or silicone caulking. Anything not specified in here I'm uncertain of how to do exactly. So! If anyone has any ideas, suggestions, or awareness that this is pure madness (or has a better way t oget those glitter lines i lust for) please let me know.
Topic by JRGumby | last reply
The manufacturer says you can optionally stain or paint the wood and then seal with a polyuerethane (sp?). I was thinking about just sealing the wood because the oak color works but is there a reason not to just seal them? How many coats of everything would be needed? BTW, I live in Minneapolis with weather/humidity is a factor. Also, it is just the inside that needs finishing. Thanks. Jay
Question | last reply
I am working at making a temporary window coverings for stained glass windows. I need to make decorative 'black out' type curtains and have chosen a heavy tapestry fabric to go with the period building. The windows need to be blacked out so that a projector screen is dark enough to be seen clearly and the flicker of light doesn't cause a visual strobbing distraction. When the weekly event is done, I need to quickly remove the curtains after the event and roll them up for storage the next week. Tension rods seemed to fit the need, but I can't seem to find them in the right length with enough strength to prevent sagging in the center, or outright falling down. I am not allowed to drill into the wood casement windows or in anyway mark them or the walls. Tension rods again seem the answer. I can only find Shower rods up to 72". Suggestions PLEASE!
Question by jalet | last reply
Hello, I am working on a project where I need to detect vibration through glass panes or on the surface of a window. I am currently planning to use a Piezo sensor with Arduino to detect and record different tests. I want to make sure that the senor is able to pick up the vibrations and not be too sensitive and pick up other things around it. I may need to tune the sensitivity. Besides the Piezo sensor I was also looking at the Parallax 605-00004 Piezo Film sensor (any advice on which one to use is appreciated.) If there are any other sensors that anyone may know that could work in this case, please let me know. I don't have a clear vision but any help to find out how I would go about this is greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help
Topic by surajshah1 | last reply
I need to learn the way of producing of plexi glass. I need plexi glasses for my caravan. One of my friend told me that he saw a page that explains the producting way. But i couldnt fint the page.. Is there anyone who remembers the page link over there? Thank you.?
Question by insel | last reply
I'm currently in the process of building a peppers ghost inspired computer monitor. I will be going through this DIY step by step and updating each time I progress. During this build I will be taking peoples suggestions from each previous step and applying it to the build. So this will be built by my and inspired by the community. First issue: I am using Lexan as the display and as you can see in the picture, I have already stumbled upon my first issue. Everything is backwards! So, first round of suggestions will be how to fix this. Note: Windows OS has built in capabilities to do screen ROTATIONS but not FLIP/MIRROR. I cannot stress enough how many people assume rotating, flipping, and mirroring are the same thing. In Microsoft's built in display panel they list: Landscape, Portrait, Landscape(Flipped), Portrait(Flipped). However the two flipped settings are merely rotations.
Topic by mae-kitty | last reply
I want to remove the paneling and use drywall. I realize that my window and door facings are not going to fit over the drywall. How do I remedy this problem? I also have one wall that will have to be handled differently because it has built-in cabinets and shelves. How do I handle these walls? I did not mention that I want to keep my molding because they are stained to match the cabinets and the house is thirty years old and I probably will not be able to match the stain.
Question by Sylviasgaby | last reply
It is all plastics. I want to harvest the two inner 1/2 inch layers of Lexan for projects. The two outer layers appear to be 3/16ths UV resistant plexi. The center membrane is killing me. I have tried mild heat and brute strength.
Question by JimFlo | last reply
A few years ago, someone asked about windshield wiper warmers. No real responses. I'm asking again. The issue is that in the northern states, the wipers get iced up, and it happens even while you're driving. We know how to do this for the back window, which won't save anyone's life if the front one is iced over. We know how to use a hot wire to cut foam. So we know how to heat wire. Some of the newer cars hide the wipers below the glass, so defrosters don't help much. And washer fluid doesn't work nearly as well as you might think. Hot liquids freeze faster than cold liquids, but the goal here is to warm up the wiper blades. How would we go about making a warm wire setup that can be connected to the battery for slow warming and lay under the wiper blade area? Any guesses? It's getting cold here in Michigan! You'd think one of the automotive companies would figure this out, but they clearly think we all have garages and live in warm states. I'd like to see some responses that wouldn't be too difficult for a novice - I don't care about technical terms, I just want to know how to wire it up so it works.
Question by whisperonthewind | last reply
First, I am not affiliated with this company at all. But, the HPV team I am on has used this company as a supplier for glass and epoxy resin the past two years with excellent success :) Even the gentlemen from Lockheed Martin that has helped us greatly was pleased with the resin.http://www.uscomposites.com/ http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html <-- the resin (their brand - west systems is great, just expensive)We used the medium hardener/epoxy which gave us a pot life around 20+ minutes at 75ish degrees F and cured overnight or so. I highly recommend the pump attachments to make measuring an exact science.With one exception, every batch we made came out perfect. That exception was a set of test samples that took four days under heat lamps to cure. We think that there wasn't enough hardener to kick properly. The stuff was used to make HPV fairings for the past two years with a K-mat core. The picture here is last year's fairing that got vacuum bagged.Funny story, the gentleman that assisted us (with his experience) apparently knows Burt Rattan - you know, the man that built SpaceShipOne. The window idea was just an off the cuff joke we had that eventually made its way into solid works and ProE -- and then when no other window design was thought up it was cut out :PWhen I remember where we got it, I'll post our source for Micro Balloons (air encapsulated in glass) and K-mat (square scored foam core backed with a very thin layer of glass weave).Going from memory - the fairing below used 3mm Kmat core with S-class woven glass (can't remember weight). We might have used E-class glass too (not sure) because we have a roll of it from last year. Flanges (not shown) are used to support the upper canopy in place. They are made from glass with a "coremat" core. The lower removable section also has a flange to hold screw bosses - this was made from the same "coremat" setup.The whole thing was layed up on a male plug that was made from Styrofoam that was cut on a waterjet in 1 inch thicknesses - glued together - sanded - filled - glassed (to get it nice and smooth) and then covered with a wax mold release. When everything was layed up, a vacuum bag was cut for it and I believed they pulled 10psi (they went higher and the foam started collapsing).Now you may think I'm sharing trade secrets or something. Maybe so - but the experience we had access to was so helpful (this stuff looks a lot easier than it really is). I'm told that enclosed rear wheel was pretty difficult -- and it got quite a bit of attention at the competition :PAs I find more pictures and videos from past projects -- I'll post what I've learned. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer. Just keep in mind I'm not an expert :PPS: Next time you ride Dr. Doom at Universal Studios, Orlando -- look up at the decorations and such on the ride. Our experienced friend did all of those - yes, those pyramid/circular thingamabobs are fiberglass (he still has the molds :P). He came in 100lbs underweight ;)
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
I recently had the joy of needing a new screen protector for my mobile after being dumb enough to drop it on gravel. The hard cover took all the impact but the film protector on the screen was scratched badly. Was old and partially worn anyway so I decided to upgrade to a Tempered Glass screen protector. Being somewhere rural I had no chance to get one in a shop so I ordered online. With no intention of advertising for some sellers, I collected a few links so you can check what I am talking about: Item1 Item2 Item3 Item4 Item5 Item6 So, what is my concern with these? They all can be found on amazon and other online services as well as on local markets... As I said I ordered a glass screen protector. If you check these listings and even some of the packing you will notice they all have a thing in common - being shatter proof and of 9H hardness. I also love this video showing how to remove and fix a glass screen protector! The last time I checked glass had one very distinct feature: It is hard and before it really bends it breaks - unless you use fibre optics of fibre glass cloth... What is my concern and warning here? Pretty simple: Stay away from expensive scams! Some claim their screen protector is only 0.25mm thick, even the 0.2mm one I measured was over 0.5mm with the glue... The hardness of 9H refers to the so called Moh's hardness - look it up on Wikipedia if you like. That means these tempered glass protectors would have a similr hardness than a diamond, or at least close to it. Problem is that they are made from plastic to start with and not glass at all. They claims that the screen protector is flexible because it is so thin - again a fake! Even the thinnest tempered glass will shatter if you bend it enough, not so these plastic ones. If you think I am making all this up try to use a really sharp knife or deburring tool and cut the thin sides of one of these protectors. All the ones I tested could be cut quite easy - and I though glass can't be cut with a kinfe... A nice website showing that the scratch resistance is far from the claims can be found here. And a video showing how a real glass screen protector sounds and breaks can be found here. So is it really all bad and should I avoid getting one? Not really if it is only for the added protection. To be clear here, and without the intention to blame any of the above sellers, some protectors actually do have a top layer made from glass and you can hear it as in the above video - it sound solid and not like plastic if you tap it with something hard. Another factor is the simple fact that plastic absorbs impact much better than glass. So where a real glass screen protector might shatter and crack like in the above video, the fake ones might one get a nasty dint or scratch. But you should be aware and clear about what you get and what to expect from it. These glass imitations are made from a strong polycarbonate plastic, similar to the stuff used for bullet and explosion proof "glas" windows - if you every watched the Mythbusters you have seen the big sheets I mean. The top layer of these things is specially treated to repell water, oil and dirt, it also gives the surface the good scratch resistance. The technique is nothing new, camera lenses, plastic sheets and the clear covers you see over the timetable at your bus stop all use it. The new thing is to intentionally mislable a product to make the consumer think it is glass ;) What is the real difference for the user? Check this video. Here a guy performs a drop test with a real glass screen protector. Thing is once the protector breaks the screen itself is broken too but until then it was not too bad. Here it is demonstrated how a real glass screen protector reacts to certain types of abuse - one of the reason I decided on glass. Compared to the plastic counterfeits just the sound on the glass is worth it, but I think the hacksaw was best. Another video from XDA gives a bit more info on how the glass is made - if you can't seeing a phone being abused then don't watch the drop tests at the end ;) Glass with these hardness levels and types of surface protection will give the user a long and worry free use of the phone. The plastic fakes will perform at a similar level for some time but will show signs of wear long before even the top coat of the glass one fails. Both types have their uses and if the fakes would be labeled correctly the user would actually benefit from that. On bigger screens like a tablet I would actually prefer the plastic ones to prevent damage once it needs replacing. On a mobile used in less than perfect conditions I would also go for plastic as it usually is a bit thinner and will fit better within quality hard covers. But when it comes to real abuse like using with dirty fingers most of the time or mostly outdoors where a lot of dust and fine sand can be involved I always go for glass. If you paid attention to the surface treatment then you already realised that the plastic and the glass are in the same region, making them quite scratch resistant. Still fine sand or metal dust will scratch it.... The difference is in the hardness of the actual material that was covered with the oleophobic film. Glass will not give in any way, where plastic is much softer - so not to be confused with the surface hardness! This mean that sharp and point object will easier penetrate the plastic than the glass, something to be considered if you often ecounter harsh use. In terms of actual protection we need to differenciate between surface quality and actual screen damage. After all when badly scratched we can replace the protector but if the display got damaged we are back to square one. The surface hardness was already covered so let's move on to the screen itself. In some of the above videos you can see the abuse a screen might see in normal conditions, and if we would not drop our phones so often repair shops would not be at every corner LOL I have done quite a few screen repairs, mostly for friends and work mates that did not want to pay the hefty extras in a repair shop. From there I got the stories on how it happened and in almost all cases the screen cracked when the phone landed on the corners. In one case the screen and glass protector failed, including the actual display when the phone was dropped out of a 4WD and landed screen first onto a rock. A glass protector will spread the (direct onto the face) impact force onto a much larger area, where a plastic one will produce a dint onto the actual screen much sooner. So again glass wins in terms of actually protecting your expensive screen. But be aware that all this is useless if the phone lands on the corners!! Let me explain: Both the top glass on your screen and the screen protector have a thin layer of "glue". This acts like a shock absorber, so unless an impact goes deep enough so the pressure on the actual screen is too much only the protector should fail. But the screen itself is a tight fit into the frame of the phone, so all side and corner impacts go directly into the glass. As the rest of the glass has no way to give or go the stresses will crack the screen. How should I treat my phone with the new screen protector? Exactly the same way you would without it of course. But if you don't have a proper cover that offers protection of the corners you should invest in one. Having a quality protector and a good case does not mean your phone can be used as a football, see it as an added insurance in case something does go wrong. For obvious reason it can also pay off to have a spare at hand, if something bad happens that requires replacement of the protector you won't be left with an unprotected screen ;) Last but not least, double it up: For people that already know their screen will see a fair bit of abuse in term of scratches it is a good idea to put an extra film protector onto the glass one. Once it is too scratched you peel it off and replace it, while the glass protector gives you the actual protection for your screen. Corning Willow glass As time of wrinting Corning Willow glass is the only "flexible" glass on the market, unless stated with your flexible screen protector you can assume it will be just plastic. I did not list it above as this high tech material is mainly reserved for displays and at least to my knowledge is not available for screen protectors, although I will stand corrected as I have to assume some big players use it for their protectors. The material is actually a sandwich where an ultra thin sheet of glass stis bewteen two layers of durable coating, read it up on their website it is quite interesting. It won't reach the strength of their famous Gorilla glass so without an outer plastic that has the additional oleophobic coating it won't provide the strenght of real tempered glass protectors. Some phones like the Galaxy Round and the fleixble HTC phones use it for example.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I am seeking advice and or instructions. my hobby is stained glass, i am now doing hanging lanterns which i wish to light with solar same as garden solar lighting, but i wish to make it so i can have soler panel seperate form lantern. any advice or link for the supplies , parts etc. is welcome. thanks and have a great day.
Topic by macado | last reply
For some people buying a decent grinding or honing stone is a lifetime investment.Prices of over $500 for a single stone of a very fine grid are not uncommon.But what about the average Joe who just needs to sharpen a knife or tool every now and then?If slicing and dicing is not your living than investing in a set of diamond plates might be better than getting a set of stones.But there are limitations, firstly their size and then how long they last.The later is really important if not used correctly as even diamond toold can be ruined quickly.In some case these small sharpening tools are hard to handle.The bigger plates can still be a pain if they don't come with a proper mount.Well, and if you forget to clean them after use and put them in a dry place it will be quite hard to remove the rust.A nice alternative I found is sandpaper, specifically sandpaper on a glass plate.Good wet and dry sandpaper is available from almost gravel to a 10.000 grid, above that you might have to make a special order.In general the finer the grid the more you pay due to the ingredients.I use a glass plate from and old scanner as they are both heat proof and really strong, window glass is not recommended here.The glass is covered with strips of kapton tape for the ease of later cleaning.The tape is then evenly covered with a contact glue, preferably the spry king to get an even cover.Same for the sheet of sandpaper.I try to get the glue over the glass edge a bit and to have at least two sides of the sandpaper going over an edge.Just to have an area to work close to the edge without risking to lift the paper off.Once a sheet is too worn I place the plat in the oven for a few minutes so the glue softens and peel the sheet off.If too much glue remians on the tape I replace it before I put a new sheet on.Of course you need a bunch of plates although it works fine with two different sheets halfing a plate.The thing works best under slow running water, so use your tinker skills to come with a suitable frame and water supply ;)But even with just a spray bottle it is a cheap way to replace a costly stone, especially if you do require a bigger surface area.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I have been collecting materials to build a greenhouse/potting shed. I have alor of hanging baskets , ferns, moss rose, spider plants and tons of planters full of annuals that I have bought for 2 years in a row and I now see that it is not cost effective to keep buying them new year after year....(also bad on my back) I'm not getting any younger here..............I need a place to pot flowers and to keep these from freezing this winter. I have a sliding glass door and 5 windows, so far. 3 are one size and the other two are another. I envision something with the sliding glass door on one end, the 3 windows on one side and the other two on the end opposite the sliding glass door. I think I should use the rippled fiblerglass stuff for the top. How hard is this going to be to frame and could someone give me an extimate of what it might cost me to get it it done. Should I use cinderblock or wood framing and will they live in wouthern Illinois without me heating the shed? firstname.lastname@example.org
Question by kjballard22 | last reply
I have a 1998 Trans am that has power windows. The problem is the doors are fiber glass and the motors create a lot of force on the doors creating problems. What I want to do is put a limit switch at the top and bottom of the window travel. I'm using the factory switch that sends +12 volts in the up or down direction I have a dc motor, limit switches and dpdt relays. I need to know how to wire it all together. If you could draw a picture that shows all wires from switch to relays to micro switches to motor that would be best. Thank you for your help E mail email@example.com
Topic by 123COOPER | last reply