True Stainless handle

The stainless cabinet handles are manufactured from stainless steel material as they carries better finish as well as durable. Stainless steel is also the favourite material house ware and kitchen ware too. It is also the main choice for cabinet handle specifically for bathrooms and kitchens mainly due to their easily maintenance. Besides the benefits above, the color and finish of the stainless steel handles looks rather good against cabinet background. Wooden, fiber or plastic material. Modern contemporary kitchen design fit very well with stainless steel handles, and there are good selections of styles to select from. Normally it is not economic and easy to change out the entire kitchen cabinet and it is rather costly, so changing the knobs and pulls may be a good way to refresh the cabinet. Besides the decorative function, the cabinet knobs and handles are also useful in a number of ways. As cabinet door go through lots of wear and tear, so they are easily damaged. Their paint and polish can easily drop off over time. Hence the stainless steel knobs and handles are the better choice for kitchen cabinet due to their durability. but in the market nowadays, many distributors will sell SS201 Material handles rather than SS304 handles due to price problems, and SS201 will rust very easy, so if considered the price, there is another alternative choice, that´s Zinc alloy handles or Alu handles or knobs, especially Zinc alloy handles can be processed in many different finishing. Whatever types of knobs or handles you choose, they ought to fit in the theme of the kitchen. Hence do check out the different styles of the stainless steel handles. Do check out www.fashion-alen.com for more related information

Topic by Imex international 


Cast Iron or stainless? Answered

Next weekend, I'll be going on a campout with my boy scout troop. (Nothing new to me). As every year, we will be having a mock  "Iron Chef" competition. A charcoal pit will be provided for the cooking, as will some cast iron dutch-ovens. I would like to bring my own fry pan however. I am debating whether to bring a stainless or cast iron. I have both, and am fairly well able to cook with both. (besides my horrible cooking skills.) However, I'd like to see some suggestions, and here some viewpoints on the matter. I am not certain if we will be allowed the use of our propane stoves or not.

Question by dkop1   |  last reply



Is a Stainless Steel pressure canner the same as a Stainless Steel cooker?

I want to learn how to do the canning of foods and have come across a Stainless Steel pressure canner but as I live in the UK I am wondering if this is the same as a Stainless Steel pressure cooker?

Question by welshwaters   |  last reply


What do I do with all this cable?

So my dad often brings home scrap wood and the sort from his job but recently he has been doing something or other with stainless steel cable, cutting it up for whatever. Anyway, I now find myself with at least 50 pieces of this high quality stainless steel cable that is just thinner than what I have to tie out my dog. I'm not sure what size it is, but I counted around 20 strands on one of the frayed cuts. It all averages about 4-5 feet, but it ranges from a few 1 foot sections to quite a few ~6 feet sections.  I would love to find a way to put this all to use in a clever way, but who knows how long it might be before I think of something myself? My first instinct: Ask Instructables! If you have any ideas at all, please leave a comment as to what I might do with this. I'm going to ask my friends as well but I bet some of the more experienced people here might have some good suggestions.  Something I would like to know is what is the best way to link these together, if I want something longer?  Any suggestions welcome, thanks. 

Topic by cart562 


Ceramic coated stainless steel

Hi all, I just came across this jewellery and the hardware intrigues me. What is involved in this process, and is it something that can be done on a small scale? And is it only appropriate for steel? Cheers! http://www.cha-o-ha.com/collections/frontpage/products/ceramic-coated-forged-d-shackle-dark-earth

Topic by jarris   |  last reply


How do I get rid of the scratches that I made on the inside of a dishwasher door that has an almost mirror finish? Answered

I scratched it with a brush when trying to clean some discoloration that had happened. Now it looks horrible. It doesn't need to be perfect, but it needs to look alot better. I am the cleaning lady and it is not my dishwasher which is a Miele. I feel really awful about what has happened and hope that I can somehow make amends. Any suggestions?

Question by marcopola   |  last reply


Stainless steel. Minimum PSI rating?

G'day I have done the obvious searches, with no luck... So I was wondering.... Does anyone know if stainless steel tubing, has a minimum standard PSI rating? I ask this because today at work I found a hidden stash of old Stainless tubing.... It's cheap because it isn't a carried line anymore.... But the manufacturer or any trace of packaging/PSI is long since gone.... I'm talking $8 AU for a 6metre length of 16mm Stainless with a wall thickness of 1mm, and $12 for a 6m of 30mm .... Is there anyway of telling what PSI rating, it would have from the gauge or internal seam..? I am aware that most stainless for pressure is generally around your 1000PSI+ mark, just wanted to query you knowledgable folk, before using it for high PSI... I would appreciate any help, because I can't hide these lil' babies much longer.... There is about 15 length's of each... Thank in advance... ;)

Topic by Lftndbt   |  last reply


Is there any particular way to solder or weld thin stainless steel?

I'd like to reshape, attach, and make some art out of some stainless steel bowls [http://bit.ly/IgeDXA]. I've naught a clue how to approach the issue of connecting them, since they are so thin, and I'm not too sure what sort of connecting material I could use. (Would regular solder work, or would I need a specific kind?) I've only ever soldered a bunch of wires, and advice on this would be great since I'm going off the deep end into uncharted territory. Thanks!

Question by J-Manoo7   |  last reply


What glues is best for stainless steel? Answered

I am going to glue some synthetic leather (vynahide) to a piece of stainless steel. What type of adhesive should I use? Preferably water proof. Sorry I can't go into details, it's a project I'm working on for a contest. Help much appreciated! :)

Question by Xuthal   |  last reply


heated confectionery equipment Answered

Hi. I need 3 heated rollers and a heated table for some confectionery making equipment I am designing. Both must be stainless steel and must have fairly precise temperature control at around 60 degrees Celsius. The table is 30 X 30 cm and the rollers are about 3 X 30 cm. Does anyone have any ideas of how could do this. Thanks in advance.

Question by monty324   |  last reply


where can you find stainless steel? Answered

For my science project tomorrow

Question by g2LOVEsoccer   |  last reply


Soldering aluminium and stainless steel - input for an Instructable

I am currently working on a new Instructable covering the topic of soldering aluminium and stainless steel. As I am "old school" and don't like to waste money on special equippment unless really necessary, I would like to get some feedback on what to include. So far I covered the basics of the materials, the general how to and what to llok out for. Pics and videos will be made once I am happy with the tutorials to give a better understanding. Aluminium is considered to be hard to solder with no experience and I would like to try to make it possible for the hobbiest to do it, same for stainless steel. For example: Should I include my recepies for stainless steel fluxes or limit it to the procedure of actually doing it without any flux? Is is better to document with nice pictures or videos showing the entire process? (asking the noobs that want to learn it) Is it necessary to go into details like what solder alloy is best for the purpose? For me it is quite hard to go back to a "I know nothing about it state" and make sure everything a noob might need is included. But the longer I work on it the bigger the Instructable is getting with informations that not everyone might need, like how to properly clean the surface, remove the oxide layerand provide the right temperature for the job. Trying to keep it simple but complete and not drifting into boring details is harder than I tough on this topic :( Feedback and requests are welcome!

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Good quality , Low price!!!

I am a manufacturer and exporter of stainless steel pipe.Our main products include Stainless Steel Pipe Fittings, Stainless Steel Liquid Transport Pipe,Stainless Steel Structure Pipe , Stainless Steel Sanitary Pipe(Involve The Aquatic Products Pipe), Stainless Steel Boiler And Hot Permutater Pipe,Stainless Steel Flange And Stainless Steel Valve etc. Our products have acquired the license regarding the anitation and safety of drinking water by the Department of Health of Zhejiang Province and passed the accreditation of ISO9001:2000 International Quality Management System by CCS.Company Name: ZHEJIANG NANBO STEEL INDUSTRYCO.,LTD. Add:lndustrial Zone,Qiyi Village,Lanjin Bridge,Shacheng Town,Longwan District,Wenzhou CityTel:+86-0577-86997866 86051988 86058799 Fax:+86-0577-86050988Contact:RichardZip code:325025Web Site: http://www.stainlesssteelpipe.net E-mail: trade@stainlesssteelpipe.net

Topic by stainlesssteelpipe 


Where to get stainless steel sheets for oxyHydrogen generator? Answered

I am looking for thin stainless steel sheets to use as the electrodes for an oxyHydrogen producing "dry cell" set up to power a welding / cutting torch. It should be in sheets that can be evenly devided into 6 inch squares.  I am not sure what alloy it has to be so if you know about stainless steel alloys I would love advice. The electrolyte will be NaOH, and it will probably run at 120V AC at as many amps as it will draw but I might put in one of those light dimmer knobs to control it a little.

Question by Jaycub   |  last reply


Where to buy 6mm brass or stainless steel tubing?

Does anyone know where to buy good lengths of 6mm ID stainless steel or brass tubing?  When I say good length I mean like around 4 feet continuous.  And the tolerance must be very good, in the degree of 0.01mm I've been searching for a while, but getting metric tubing in the US in lengths of anything more than 10 inches or 300cm is hard.  The closest I've found was 6.22mm (which is really 0.2425 inch or something like that), but Ideally I want the ID to be between 6.00 and 6.08 mm and in case if anyone is wondering, I'm building an airsoft sniper, which uses 6mm BB's

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


I am interest in seldering with aluminum and stainless steel?

I like to learn how to solder stainless steel and aluminum, and where I can order them?

Question by ajoe10   |  last reply


Can we join two metal surfaces of Stainless Steel & Mild Steel without welding them?

My question is that is there any gum/paste/glue to fix the both the joints. My application is that we want to join the Mild Steel enclosure with Stainless Steel Flange without any gap between the two joining surfaces. Our thickness of the metal is the Mild steel is of 1.2 mm thickness & 1.5 mm of Stainless steel. Pls suggest your valid answers.

Question by Gopi2012   |  last reply


about how much does sizing a metal link stainless steel watch at a jewlery store? Answered

I got this watch for christmas from amazon and I am wondering how much it costs to size it because it is way to big for my wrist.

Question by mrelement   |  last reply


Soldering tips and tricks for complicated metals

Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 


Looking for a glass turntable for a GE microwave stainless steel oven

Looking for a glass turntable for a GE stainless steel oven Model # JES 1142 SJ .Could you help withlocating this part as well as the cost?

Question by trinidaye   |  last reply


New Wool Stainless Steel Yarn from Lion Brand

Our friends from Lion Brand just sent us some of their new Wool Stainless Steel yarn in shimmery black and gray. Now we need to come up with some great projects to show it off!Here's the what-what:75% Wool25% StainlessSemi-conductive (offers a lot of resistance)Size 0 needles, lace weightWe want to wow them with what we can come up with to use this delicate, ethereal fiber. What would you do with it?Post your ideas, pictures or patterns and we'll get to work!

Topic by scoochmaroo   |  last reply


How can I get baked on, brown stain off from a smooth "stainless" steel cooktop surface?

Stainless steel cooktop. I've tried vinegar, soap and water, and even a cleaning cream called "Cook Top".

Question by    |  last reply


Runner Up Prize Pack options?

Hello, I see that as a Runner-Up winner for the Summer Fun contest, I can either receive a t-shirt or stainless steel mug. However, when I click on the link to claim my prize, I only see the option for t-shirt sizes, and no option to choose the stainless steel mug. Is there a way we can choose which one we want? Thanks!

Topic by umami_tsunami   |  last reply


How can I reattach the cork strip to a ruler? Answered

I have a stainless steel ruler with a cork backing strip. The strip is starting to fall off. What kind of glue should I use to reattach it?

Question by CameronSS   |  last reply


How to drill a hole in the bottom of a stainless steel mixing bowl?

I would like to drill a hole into he bottom of a 3 quart stainless steel mixing bowl in order to insert a 1/2" brass needle drain cock (and then secure the valve to hold liquid).  How do I measure the diameter of the valve so I use the correct drill bit?  How do I get the hole centered.? How do I keep the pot stationary? The bowl is thin, how do i keep the bit from ripping the metal?

Question by angelikaengel   |  last reply


Cookie Contest

On the prize page for the cookie contest the third prize is listed as 3-Piece Stainless Steal Mixing Bowl Set. there is a small spelling error. i do believe that it is a  3-Piece Stainless Steel Mixing Bowl Set. Homonyms will get you. Or am I wrong and these bowls are "Hot"? 

Topic by Verdann 



does hydorchloric acid eat through wax? Answered

I am trying to make naruto style headbands out of stainless steel and i want to know if hydrochloric acid will melt through wax so i can apply the hydrochloric acid specifically to where i want it. i am planning to use about 1/16 inch thick stainless and have the acid eat through about half of it. if it does eat through wax is there any substance that it wont eat through? thank you for all of your help!

Question by Thor007   |  last reply


how to make digital antenna ?

Stainless wire to make digital antenna info please.

Question by teav56   |  last reply


How can I turn stainless steel sheet metal into a cylinder? Answered

I'm working on a ice cream churn and I've hit a wall with the cylinder construction. How thick should the steel be if I want it to be thin enough to bend easily without kinks yet thick enough do that it's sturdy? I don't have many tools, so how could I bend it to the right shape and diameter could I braze the steel together using a soldering torch and brazing compond? I'm planning on making it about 16 inches diameter by 2 1/2 feet. Any help would be welcome. Thank you!

Question by sugarworm   |  last reply


The best way to reverse staining by copper etchant in a stainless steel sink?

So I used some of the copper etchant in aqueous solution stuff (instructables example) and a couple drips got onto my sink. I was thinking there might be two ways to minimize the appearance of these stains: 1. Could I just dremel the very surface off with a fine sandpaper/stone? 2. Could I use electrolysis in a small area to try to at least pull the copper off the sink? There is some dark staining which I assume is some acid that ate through some of the steel, but the copper is the most obvious problem. I doubt there's a good method to remove what I assume is the acid staining other than trying the dremel.

Question by shmolky   |  last reply


fireplace soot

Maybe someone can figure this out.  i have a brick fireplace and burn a lot of nice oak. over time soot builds up. i have a piece of stainless at the back of the fireplace to reflect the heat. this also gets a soot buildup.  if i take a small handful of rock salt and throw it into a fire, in just a few minutes the soot on the stainless is gone and it is bright again... i have no idea why this happens...anyone?

Topic by clasof56   |  last reply


Have you any idea what this is?

It seems to be an adjustable clamp for two similar sized objects. The material is 1 inch wide stainless steel strip.

Question by tonyowen   |  last reply


Chain machine

I want to know, how can I do a machine to make stainless steel chains. That's a ward one. If some one can tell me

Question by spper   |  last reply


Working With Shim Stock

How does one cut shim stock into 54 perfectly identical pieces? I'm trying to make a deck of cards with .002" stainless steel as the core.

Topic by dudemonkeys 


Can you use a stainless steel spice holder has a small smoking box?

I popped out the plastic top and pryed the magnetic piece off the bottom then set it on the hot coals to burn off any remaing glue.  The steel coloured that purple,blue,red colour you get when metal heats up.  I was just wondering if it would be safe to use has a small smoking box.  I don't want to poison the whole family.

Question by Kaniduh   |  last reply


Has anyone ever "repainted" their old kitchen appliances for a new look... Answered

Preferably in black or stainless steel look. How did it turn out?

Question by hunt4anarnia   |  last reply


Where do I find "non standard" Seebeck coefficients? Answered

Specifically: I am interested in making a small thermopile for some experiments, for operation at pretty high temperatures. I have plenty of ni-chrome and constantan wire, I also have 304 and 316 stainless steel welding rod. Apart from by experiment, how can I find the output voltages/ deg C of any combination of these metals ? I can't seem to readily find the Seebeck coefficients for stainless steels. Thanks Steve

Question by steveastrouk   |  last reply


Contest Prize acceptance page: No option to enter T shirt size or Mug

I have won a the second prize in "Live off the Land" contest. The email says "Let us know which size of shirt you’d like when filling out your form as well - we're currently offering unisex shirts, women's, and youth sizes or stainless steel mugs." But the prize acceptance page does not have option to enter your choice of T shirt and size or Stainless steel mug. Please see the screenshot below.

Topic by antoniraj   |  last reply


New materials at Ponoko

Just got the Ponoko newsletter and they've announced new materials for the US! You can now order up projects that include aluminum and stainless steel!  New materials at Ponoko!

Topic by Culturespy 


3d Printing aluminum? Answered

I was thinking about 3d printing aluminum and was wondering if you could do something like this. You have a stainless steel air tight cylinder, surrounded with some refreactory, then nichrome wire, then insulating refreactory. The first layer of refractory is to prevent an electric short between the wire and the stainless steel cylinder. Stainless steel so it will take longer to oxidize. You would fill the cylinder with aluminum, close it, turn on the heater, t would heat up the stainelss steel and aluminum and melt the aluminum. Temperature could be regulated. Air would go to a hole in the top of it, the air would be regulated by a solenoid valve and a a pressure release valve. A needle with come out of the bottom, however it would be bent into a upside down U shape and one side would poke out the bottom, this would preven the aluminum from running out when there wasn't pressure. When the solenoid is open, aluminum comes out, when the solenoid is closed the release valve is opened to get rid of any excess pressure and stop the aluminum flow. This would be put in the place of the the traditional extruder, would this work?

Question by snowluck2345   |  last reply


fireplace soot

Hi all! here is a question. i have a brick fireplace that i use a lot and burn almost all oak.  soot builds up and i want to get rid of it.  i have found that if i throw a little handful of rock salt into the fire that much of the soot is gone very quickly.  i have a large piece of stainless at the back of the fireplace to reflect heat. this gets black with soot. a handful of rocksalt into the flames and in a few minutes the stainless is bright and clean.  does anyone have any idea why this happens?? i thought it might make an instructable but i am ignorant to cause and effect.   thanks for letting me pick your brains.   Clas

Topic by clasof56 


is there a foodsafe and heat resistant adheisive?

I am joining copper tube to a stainless steel pot lid, i have joined them but want to make an airtight seal. is there an adheisive i can use that will be heat resistant and not react with alcohol?

Question by the rowdyboy   |  last reply


Why does my HHO generator not work Answered

I build this HHO mason jar type out of stainless steel plates nylon rods en nylon washers with a 50Watt 12V supply. But it doesn't do enything

Question by MC92   |  last reply


How can I clean or remove dried creosote from a stainless steel chimney pipe??

This ss chimney pipe is on the roof outside my home. It can be removed and lowered to the ground.  I have a couple pieces of pipe I can interchange. Is there a cleaner I can use to remove the creosote from the outside surface of the chimneyn pipe?

Question by LeShane   |  last reply


restoring a knife

I recently acquired a knife in poor condition. It is a Frost Cutlery Flying Falcon lock back. The thumb catch knob is missing and I was wondering if any one had an idea to replace it. Also, I was wondering if anyone had any info on stainless rostfrei.

Topic by masterochicken   |  last reply


Do i have to have certain metals to synthesize potassium perchlorate using electrolysis?

I know how to make potassium chlorate using electrolysis but I've seen on YouTube that you can use NaCl (table salt) in a mixture with water and that i can electrolyze it with platinum and titanium (or steel) electrodes. i need to get around shipping stuff to myself (because my parents) so i wanted to know if i should just make KClO3 or if  i can use two stainless steel electrodes or if there are other easy accessible metals i can use

Question by hopekiller30   |  last reply


9 Volt battery powered heating element that is small and can reaches 380 degrees F

I would like the heating element along with the battery to fit into an Altoids tin. I have copper wire (.064 gage), nichrome wire (low gage), stainless steel wire (.064 gage), 304 stainless steel wire mesh, and many tools including a soldering iron. I would be willing to use a smaller battery as well which would be even better. Ideally it would be able to power a LED light as well. Hope you guys can help, feel free to email me if there are any further questions.  

Question by butlerhs   |  last reply


shaping plastic bottles? Answered

I need to find a way to shape a rolled  finishing edge with a 14"wide top plastic bottle. I actually thinking about a stainless steel cone that I could heat up to reshaple the edge ....any idea how I could find...make/ do  such a thing?? 

Question by terriradke   |  last reply