So what temperature is red hot steel?
Topic by steven07 | last reply
I am a sculptor and, if possible, would like to make simple bases for my work...ie a 3" x 3" steel plate with a verticle a 1/8" - 1/4" steel rod attached. Is it possible to do this with soldering? If not , would copper possibly work? Thanks for any advice!
Question by Marcia RR | last reply
I'm building pedals, a control stick, and collective lever for a helicopter simulator. They need to be extremely robust. I'm looking for resources for perforated steel plate, ball bearings, etc. that I could build my own (think oversize erector set) or a steel fabricator that could create pieces to my specification.
Topic by davedev | last reply
So here's my situation... I've lost the key to my U-lock - I'm fairly certain it fell out of my pocket while I was sitting - somewhere :/... Any recommendations on how to cut it? After chewing up 1 hacksaw blade to it's dull tomb, I'm fairly certain it's made from hardened steel. Bugger. From past expirience, bolt cutters don't play nice with hardened steel :p Recommendations? oh, and it's a decent lock - picking isn't an option :/
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
After i pound a peice of metal into shape at a bright cherry to full orange color how exactly do i quench my steel and temper it? Right now when i quench my steel with a straight plunge into room temp water it doesnt become brittle??? I use old fence post material as a base steel. Can any1 give me a more accurate instruction. Thank you! P.S. I do clean off the galvanization before heating
Question by trf | last reply
If you havent heard of cold steel knifes check them out they seem amazingly durable.i want to get more or less the cheapest knife they have i have a great folding knife (only 2.8") but some times when your camping there are somethings that only a nice straight 7" long knife can do.There cheapest knife is the Bushman its a nice simple strait edge knife. you can throw these they are hollow handled and blade heavy. but i want to know which should i get the Bowie blade or the regular one whats the big diff? Video spec'sBUSHMANSpecifications:Weight: 10.1 oz.Blade Thickness: 3/32" (2.5mm)Blade Length: 7"Handle: HollowSteel: SK-5 High CarbonOverall Length: 12 1/4"Sheath: Cordura$29.99BOWIE BLADE BUSHMANSpecifications:Weight: 9.8 oz.Blade Thickness: 3/32" (2.5mm)Blade Length: 7"Handle: HollowSteel: SK-5 High CarbonOverall Length: 12 1/4"Sheath: Cordura$29.99
Topic by i make shooting things | last reply
I want to learn how to do the canning of foods and have come across a Stainless Steel pressure canner but as I live in the UK I am wondering if this is the same as a Stainless Steel pressure cooker?
Question by welshwaters | last reply
Hi all, I just came across this jewellery and the hardware intrigues me. What is involved in this process, and is it something that can be done on a small scale? And is it only appropriate for steel? Cheers! http://www.cha-o-ha.com/collections/frontpage/products/ceramic-coated-forged-d-shackle-dark-earth
Topic by jarris | last reply
I've got a knife made out of it, and I was wondering how good it is, I know its some sort of Chrome-Molybdenum but this one has got a hint of Vanadium which I know some tool steels are made out of, Could someone please shed some light on my question??
Question by Muscelz | last reply
The photo of this cut-steel lacework make me want to run out to the shop, grab the torch & some scrap steel, and start carving. Cal Lane cuts shovels into lace, oil drums into tapestry, and I-beams into filigreed sculpture with incredible delicacy. From the New York Times article: "The work is about the contrasts between the industrial and the fanciful, the opaque and the transparent. Ms. Lane described herself as "a person who always has opposites in my head."She started her adult life as a hairdresser (her mother owned a salon in Victoria), but she said she was a tomboy and "welding seemed to fit me better." The mix of feminine and masculine vocations (teasing hair and welding steel), she said, is encapsulated in her work."Check out more of Lane's work here and here. Amazing.
Topic by reno_dakota | last reply
Hey everyone! Here's a good one for anyone interested in new techniques! I have some porcelain steel I'm trying to cut and I was wondering if anyone has an idea, tool, or technique that i should try to cut the porcelain coated steel with that won't chip the edges of the ceramic. The porsaline steel is .017" thick the ceramic is .007" inches thick. If anyone could design something that I could use it would be greatly appreciated!
Topic by 2001warrior | last reply
So I own a 39.1 cm (15.4 in) K'nex steel rod, which I got from the 6 ft. Knex Ferris Wheel set. Does anybody know any good uses for this rod? I should point out it is slightly thicker than the typical K'nex rod, has no places to clip on connectors (other than on the ends) and creates a lot of friction with the holes in connectors (so no epic single shots unfortunately). The rod is also quite heavy. The picture is a comparison between the steel rod and a strengthened grey rod (black).
Question by Perk1ns | last reply
I am working on a completely home made armor set for sword combat. Actually, it will be mixed with a few modern firearms such as .44 Magnum revolvers, 9mm handguns and .45 pistols. It is better that you DON'T know what I am doing. Trust me. So the question, Is a steel kitchen pot bulletproof?
Question by bendog38 | last reply
My cat loves steel wool. We stopped buying it because we couldn't keep it away from the cats. I found a box in the basement and was using one to clean metal, she got a hold of it so I put it in the cabinet. See video below. I got a child lock on the cabinet now but my 2 year old takes them off. I know I got to clean the kitchen, got folks coming over.
Question by thematthatter | last reply
I decided to try my hand at making jewelry with a cheap piece of steel. Partly, because of price and partly due to not being able to find a large enough piece of stainless. It turned out great. However I know it will rust if I don't protect it somehow. I'd prefer not to paint it l, because of the work to buff it to a high shine. Any ideas on how to protect it from rusting when in contact with skin?
Question by BernardR23
I have a window well that constantly fills up when it rains and it has done so for years to the point it has rusted the steel frame that holds the window in addition to the actual window..I have dug out the well to one foot below exterior sill but it still fills up and leaks in the rusted window frame...There are window well covers and gutters are clean and downspouts rerouted as far from the well as possible,Any ideas on how to fix?????
Question by steelnix | last reply
Theoretically, could it be possible to mix titanium and steel and get the best of both? Let’s just assume that cost and difficulty are not an issue? Imagine the possible uses for a metal that was non-magnetic, non-conductive, corrosion resistant, and with a great strength to weight ratio, while being as hard as tempered steel. For one thing, it make a fantistic knife. So, the question is; Would it be possible.
Question by black hole | last reply
Recently got a diamond wheel for angle grinder. tho it is marketed to cut tile, marble, etc, i tried it on steel. cuts quick enough, but leaves huge burrs. burrs 4x thicker than the workpiece. seems the blade just melts and squishes the steel out of the way. it works, kinda, leaving a hazardous ragged edge on the work... i see why they dont market those blades for steel. im reminded of friction cutting blades.
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
I've been thinking about this for a long time. What I am wanting to accomplish is finding a way to combine steel and rubber together to form a new substance where the two are no longer able to be distinguished from each other.
Question by Jakcavar | last reply
By canned food cans, I don't mean soda cans, I mean the cans that pineapple and corn and other stuff come in, just to be clear. From what I know, it's probably not aluminum because it is magnetic. So what metal is it? Is it combined with different metals?
Question by Orange robot | last reply
I am making chainmail in my room and my dad thinks we'll get zinc dust in our carpet and possibly get sick from me bending the wire.
Question by pindalanderz | last reply
I need some professional advice. I need to decide on a sink for my future apartment (under construction) and I don't have the choices I like. I really want an undermount sink with a satin finish - and it's hard to come around where I live (South America). I have found a satin finish drop-in type sink, and I am wondering if it could be cut to be used as an undermount sink. My question is, will the bowl of the sink warp if the frame is cut? The sink I want to cut looks like this but without the strainer on the left. Red lines indicate how I would like to cut the sink. Thanks for your time, Colorex
Topic by colorex | last reply
G'day I have done the obvious searches, with no luck... So I was wondering.... Does anyone know if stainless steel tubing, has a minimum standard PSI rating? I ask this because today at work I found a hidden stash of old Stainless tubing.... It's cheap because it isn't a carried line anymore.... But the manufacturer or any trace of packaging/PSI is long since gone.... I'm talking $8 AU for a 6metre length of 16mm Stainless with a wall thickness of 1mm, and $12 for a 6m of 30mm .... Is there anyway of telling what PSI rating, it would have from the gauge or internal seam..? I am aware that most stainless for pressure is generally around your 1000PSI+ mark, just wanted to query you knowledgable folk, before using it for high PSI... I would appreciate any help, because I can't hide these lil' babies much longer.... There is about 15 length's of each... Thank in advance... ;)
Topic by Lftndbt | last reply
I am trying to make a DIY CNC machine, using linear rails and the expert advice in the many awesome instructables out there on this topic. I hit my first roadblock, and I need some help/advice please... The 16mm steel tubes I ordered for the sliding rails wouldn't fit in the 16mm linear slide bearings SCS16LUU that I ordered, they are ever so slightly too big. With a lot of force I could get the rail in the bearing, but it wouldn't slide without extreme force - certainly not the smooth sliding motion it's supposed to be! I've probably ruined the bearings by forcing it in, but I'm not worried about that so much right now (I have spare bearings). I broke out the digital callipers, and the rail diameter measured 16.3mm - that's .3mm more than expected, and more than can fit in the 16.0mm bearings. So now I need to reduce the steel rails by 0.3mm. I have only hand tools at my disposal, and no experience accurately reducing steel rod diameter. I guess another alternative is increasing the slide bearing diameter, but these are sealed bearing units and difficult to get at. Does anyone have any ideas ? Would it be easier to order new steel? Please let me know any thoughts on this, I'm desperate here. Thanks in advance,
Question by srah1 | last reply
After moving house I am still living in a big mess of boxes that need to be unpacked, kitchen stuff be sorted and and so on... But with a big garage and proper workspace at hand it is also time to consider my options on how to create my tinker space. I would like set up a small forge later on if the landlord gives permission and that means bot blueing steel again. Which brings me to the problem of heating the nitrates :( My last setup was not only on a different continent but also totally oversized and powered by three big gas burners. This time I would like to go a bit smaller so I can use it inside the workshop. Was thinking of a max of around 8kg of nitrates that need to be heated in a safe way to melting point. Problem with that stuff is that it is not only highly corrosive but also requires quite some time and energy to melt. Using gas on such a small scale seems far to dangerous uless I include baffle plates and add several safe guards, so I would like to avoid the open flame approach here. Only reasonabe alternative that comes to my mind is electric heating. Did some small test last night outside :( Used a 2000W electric hotplate and an old stainless steel pot with about 1kg of nitrate in it. After 40 minutes there was still no real melting happening despited the entire thing padded and covered in glass wool. 20 minutes later I turned it all off and once cooled I found that only about 1cm of solid nitrate was at the bottom. If I would use a suitable container of let's say 20x10x10 cm as a small melting vessel: Could it be sufficient to use a 2000W nichrome heating element (with temp controller of course) in an insulated, forge like setup to melt the nitrate ina reasonable amount of time and be able to keep it that way once the steel is dropped in? Problem is the entire garage is already setup with power outlets and they all go to a single 10 amp breaker. I could max it out with 2400W but for obvious reasons would prefer to have some juice left for lights and other uses. If anyone here already made such a thing it would be great to hear how you solved the heating problem without waiting half a day for the stuff to melt.
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
I am going to glue some synthetic leather (vynahide) to a piece of stainless steel. What type of adhesive should I use? Preferably water proof. Sorry I can't go into details, it's a project I'm working on for a contest. Help much appreciated! :)
Question by Xuthal | last reply
Hey guys, I'm back! I just thought I'd drop by and give you some pics of my newest K'NEX gun, the ARX-160 - Steel Bite from Advanced Warfare! Let me know what you guys think! I'll hopefully have it ready to go by next Tuesday! -The Red Book of Westmarch
Topic by The Red Book of Westmarch | last reply
I've bought and cut some lengths of mild steel tube to make chimes for a doorbell. Mild steel has a nice ring to it, which is why I bought it instead of aluminium, but it has already started rusting, so I was thinking of tinning the tube before I build the whole thing. My question is mainly how to clean it properly before I tin it. The outside I can do with wire wool but not the inside. I was thinking of just using vinegar to etch away the rust and then give it a good wash before putting it in the tinning solution. Is this likely to work ok? Also any tips on the actual tinning process would be useful. As far as I know you just make up the solution and then put the tube in it for a set amount of time, but I've never done it before, so it would be good to hear from someone who's tried this.
Question by ganglion | last reply
To save me going through the trial and error stage (I can only eat so many Altoids), what is the best way to drill a matrix of neat 5mm holes in the lid of an Altoids tin? Centres will be 12.5mm (1/2") so reasonable gap between. How do you clamp and support the tin without bending it? What drill speed do you use? Centre-punch first? Drill pilot holes? Drill from the inside or outside? I have a bench drill and usual workshop stuff available.
Question by AndyGadget | last reply
My dad is giving me this red toolbox that he had since he was in college its pretty old ,but he took care of it. the thing is though i wont be ablt to clean it becuase he said the bottom is really greasy and has oil all over it becuse of all the work. hes giving me this tool box because i love buildiing and i have alot of tools and i now have to use a cardboard box to hold them all. its about a 1 high and 36 inches in length and 7 inches wide. (also its RED!!!!!!!!!!...................................YAY!!!!)
Question by DELETED_JAZ97 | last reply
I ran into a glitch in rehabing an old park bench. The wooden slats were rotted out, so I'm saving the wrought iron end frames and fitting them with new poplar slats. I included a mid-project picture below of one of the end frames. I don't know if you can notice from the picture, the holes in the frame for mounting the slats were not in a straight line, but rather haphazardly. So each board needs to be custom-drilled to match the mounting holes in the frames. Problem is, I originally measured the distance between the bolts on one of the old slats and used that measurement to drill ALL the new (expensive) hardwood boards. I had made the careless assumption that the holes in the frames would be in a straight line. Never assume good workmanship! After drilling the slats, I applied about 5 coats of clear urethane spar varnish. The new slats look supreme, and I don't want to zorkk them up by drilling a second hole in each board to match the stupid end frames. So the only way out of the quagmire I can see is to drill the frame to match the boards. OK! Problem is, most of the new holes in the frames would intersect the old holes, and I know that drilling an intersecting hole is problematic, especially in 3/16" steel. So I need advice on how to stretch holes in steel into an oval shape. I'm thinking some sort of router bit, or a grinding bit that I could use with a hand drill. Suggestions? Thanks.
Question by LesB | last reply
Welding cast iron to mild steel is for the most part done with ornamental iron such as gates and fences. the ornaments are typicaly cast iron such as spearpoints and fit over the top of what ever square tubing size ect you are working with. If you weld say with a mig welder in the normal mannor you rweld will cold roll and ball on you leaving a poor appearance that you will have to spend time grinding to make look good. Fortunatly it is not a matter of strenght or how much penetration ect. It is just ornamentation but must look good. Now take your mig welder with say 035 wire and use pure argon..(less spatter). Turn your welders heat up somewhat past what your normanl setting would be for what ever thickness you are using. Use breif spot welding like techniques overlapping as needed. You will find that this makes a good wash bead with no undercut or cold roll. The argon gas helps to keep down all the extra spatter welding cast iron to mild steel seems to cause. Larger peices such as caps for say 4by4 gate posts or fence posts, i preheat as uniformely as possibly to just under cherry red then weld as described. It welds badly because cast iron is actualy dirty, literaly with particles of dirt in the cheap castings, wich the ornaments are. Not haviong the need to be anealed or nodular for instance. If the welds are not going to show then you dont have to do this. It will still weld, just do not expect the clean perfect welds you are used to. And NO I do not have PICS AND I dont own a digital camera nor do i know how to use one let alone put them on a computer.
Topic by beserker | last reply
I know i need high carbon steel and a nickel alloy steel but what kind is the best to get??
Question by Don,t try this at home | last reply
Is there any hand held laser that can be used on site
Question by philipatimms | last reply
Hi,I am planning to be living in a boat this summer, and will need to bring along sufficant tools for any maintenance I will need to do, and will need to bring screw drivers, spanners, saw, hand drill, plane, etc. it's a large boat compared to my tool collection so I'm not worried about weight, also, i'm not going to bring any power tools.I was thinking i'lll wrap with all in oily rags. will this be enough?cheers. Dominic
Topic by dominic.tarr | last reply
Hi, i am working on a project (in Vienna, Austria), and a part of that process will be that i would have to clean a bunch of used bicycle chains and create other, rather smaller objects out of them. they dont have to hold a lot of weight, they vary from 4 to 6 chainlinks or so. At the end I think I will have between 50 and 100 maybe 200 pieces, so it's not an industrial amount but not a single few pieces either. FYI: bicycle chains are made from steel, they are not stainless steel, usually its chromed, there is nickel in it, so when its used they surfaces are often damaged, so it has rust on the surface as well. it has really small hidden parts where grease, dirt and rust stays hidden and stuck too. For the cleaning: I have been cleaning chains to create prototypes and individualised pieces so far with Terpentine and experimented with other types of Degreasers, Soaps, with toothbrush method:) and rags, also other kinds of paint thinners (terpentine doesnt smell so bad, but still removed a fair amount of grease dirt and rust) Degreasers are not very effective, soap and toothbrush and rags take a lot of time. Soaking in terpentine helps but its still time consuming. I havent tried aceton yet. Vinegar and stuff like this dont seem to be so effective either... For assembling/connecting: I have used for individual pieces chain tools (putting a small pressure on the chain link pins, so they are not flexible anymore (as chains supposed to be normally) and then forced bending them in the position they should be in. This is stable enough for the stuff I want to do (they are only decorational) but it's a lot of work, takes a really long time. I did welding too (MIG), but the plates are individual pieces, it doesnt weld so nicely, or its not so easy, and I dont have my own welding machine in my workshop space, I have one in a different place i can use, but i dont want to invest and buy one just for this, and it would be nice if I could do the whole project in my own space, and i wouldnt have to transport so much stuff all the time back and forth... and it's not necessary to have it that strong as i can actually get it with welding, because it doesnt have to be that resistant, doesnt have to hold so much weight, as they are going to be only smaller decorational objects anyway. Ideas and tips that came up, havent been tried yet though, or didnt really work yet: - soldering: with gas flame (torch) and simple solder. i tried shortly, didnt really work though, didnt connect, maybe i give it a try again, not sure what i did wrong though, maybe its just not the right method? - using screw glue (not sure if thats the right name in english:) rather smaller amounts or transparent ones, applying it at the inside points, so it still looks nice. - i havent tried epoxy and i am not a huge fan of the idea, but i dont know enough about the costs, process and the environmental effects of it... - it is an option also to use some temporarily working, not very great but cheap and fast method for assembly as preparation and then just quickly fill holes by welding, i thought about trying soldering or screw glue before welding and just zack, zack zack weld them one bye one, it would be easier if they are somehow already fixed in the position they should be in (as they are small and very flexible pieces of metal otherwise), problem is though that whatever i use as preparation, will be quickly burned by welding, which is in terms of environmental effects not so great, but also has aestetical consequences i guess. - i just read about brazing, i am not sure yet what i would need for it, for smaller stuff, what is the difference between brazing and soldering exactly and how well it would work, what are the costs of investment etc. - for cleaning: one idea i havent tried, just read about it is sandblasting. I would probably have to ask some company to do that, as i really cant afford to invest much more money in equipment right now, not sure if i even have the right space for that, and it seems anyway for 50 or 100 pieces disproportionate somehow. I would like to use a method that is not too bad in terms on enviromental-friendlyness or how to say, not very damaging or too bad chemically etc. it would be important that whatever i do, the endresult: - holds more or less - looks nice, either invisible the parts or things, materials i add so it holds, or it has the same colour/material like some kind of metal. it can be that i will paint it over with some metal silver colour at the end if necessary, for having a consistent colour surface, or to prevent from rusting afterwards. - should be cheap during the process, so low running costs and more or less environmental friendly, and preferably some method to use tools that are cheap or i have access to, not very expensive to invest. - i prefer to do things by myself and not outsource the process to companies unless it has big advantages (like for example if it turns out sandblasting is cheap and really environmental friendly i would consider it actually:))) i am really happy for any tips on these things, before i spend more money on stuff just to try it out and find out it's stupid, or not what i need, not what i am looking for:)
Question by bikese_xual | last reply
I am currently working on a new Instructable covering the topic of soldering aluminium and stainless steel. As I am "old school" and don't like to waste money on special equippment unless really necessary, I would like to get some feedback on what to include. So far I covered the basics of the materials, the general how to and what to llok out for. Pics and videos will be made once I am happy with the tutorials to give a better understanding. Aluminium is considered to be hard to solder with no experience and I would like to try to make it possible for the hobbiest to do it, same for stainless steel. For example: Should I include my recepies for stainless steel fluxes or limit it to the procedure of actually doing it without any flux? Is is better to document with nice pictures or videos showing the entire process? (asking the noobs that want to learn it) Is it necessary to go into details like what solder alloy is best for the purpose? For me it is quite hard to go back to a "I know nothing about it state" and make sure everything a noob might need is included. But the longer I work on it the bigger the Instructable is getting with informations that not everyone might need, like how to properly clean the surface, remove the oxide layerand provide the right temperature for the job. Trying to keep it simple but complete and not drifting into boring details is harder than I tough on this topic :( Feedback and requests are welcome!
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Okay, so I am currently in the process of starting to make a .380 machine pistol. So far, I have cutted out the tubing for the lower reciver. Right now I'm thinking of way of coloring it. I've read that some people heat it up with a blowtorch to color it, however, it turns to blue,purple,and brown, not the black or a nice gun blue as i'm hoping it to be. So now I'm thinking of buying black spray paint, but I have no idea whether the color would rub off after a while or if it might become too shiny. Any suggestions on whats the best kind of paint (brand,type,etc.) for this type of thing? All because I want to make this as best looking as possible,or do you suppose it would look best if I kept it in it's natural steel color? P.S. What kind of sling do you think would look best? Denim Brown Leather or canvas that is dyed black?
Topic by IlluminatedAntichrist | last reply
Does anyone have experience making a magnetostrictive driver that can excite longitudinal vibes on a ferromagnetic string under tension or making a Sensor (Valeri effect) for same?
Topic by herb_fox | last reply
Question by ricardo587 | last reply