Can a plasma speaker be configuredf to be able to generate realy deep base?
Question by jcmcf57 | last reply
My ibm comp spoilt its internal speaker. i think due to its high out power(its so loud). i use the same output to feed the sub woofer. i wondered if the high output will spoil it
Question by mauricewarebee | last reply
Question by tiredawg | last reply
I need help with a car subwoofer, i have a friend whos red wire went, and doesn't have a power antenna akak a blue wire. his red wire went, its a 2000 buick and the cars are notorious for that issue. i have it on a switch for the 12v and i have a jumper from the 12v to the remote so when the switch is flicked the remote and 12 v are powered. is there an alternative wire to connect the remote to besides the red or blue?
Question by slimguy379 | last reply
I'm looking for or to make a 100 watt amp, I can't seem to find any. If you know where i can find one online or a schematic to build one please let me know! Also is it possible to resist or lower the amps from an amplifier or will I have to specifically get a 30 watt amp for the mid range speaker. I am attempting an "led music box on steroids" project hahaha.... basically what I am going to do is make a clear plastic box and put leds and speakers and a 6" sub in it. Kinda bored and looking for a fun project and this came to mind. I'm open to any suggestions to make it better or ideas on how to power the speakers. Thank you in advance! The sub woofer I'm looking to power http://www.electronix.com/100-watt-woofer-speaker-ohm-p-13521.html and the mid range speaker http://www.electronix.com/30-watt-midrange-speaker-p-13507.html Might think about putting a tweeter in too
Topic by zcm87 | last reply
Last year had a lot of bad luck making my bike sound system. I made some boxes, fried some electronics, etc. The boxes were too big for easy handling, so I'll make another attempt, since spring is coming. I noticed the speaker (driver) did not like higher volumes; very large excursions in the lower Hz range , probably hitting the end of its moving range. It is a closed enclosure, no port. The RMS output of the amp is probably many times lower than the RMS rating of the speaker (driver); logitech 2.1 computer amp with consumer grade sub speaker (6"). Same problem occurs with my home 10" 60 W RMS driver in a closed ca. 70 l - ca.15 Gallon barrel, with a modest 25W RMS amp: I cannot even turn it halfway up: it is mounted horizontally, and shoots peas 40 cm (16") up! Would it be more helpful to make the box / barrel less square? Like halve the size by putting a diagonal separator in the box? Or is geometry irrelevant and does only volume matter? Perhaps there even might be a formula????
Question by BobS
I found 4 speakers (2 subs about 5 inches diameter each and 2 tweets about 2 in diameter) in a TV that was left on the side of the road. I would like to make a speaker box for them, or a mini-amp for my electric cello. In either case, I have very little technical knowledge in this area, and will need some very clear instructions as to what I need. I took from the TV: 4 speakers (see above) Each speaker has a red and a black wire coming out the back of it (power cables presumably). The smaller speakers are connected to the larger ones by similar cables. There are also two more cables similar to the others, but one is white and black, the other green and black. These connected the larger subs to the main power of the TV I think. I also took the power chord from the TV. It has a connector that was joined to a plug inside the TV. The speakers say on the back: ZM YD150-B1-20W-8* for the larger speakers and ZM YDG70-A1-10W-8* for the smaller speakers * means the sign for ohms (my rather dusty chemistry knowledge from high school tells me this, I could be wrong, it's the omega sign from the Greek alphabet anyway) That's all I think. I would like to know what I will need to make these speakers work, and if it is worth my while and not too expensive, and whether or not I will kill myself in the process. I have never done this kind of project, but have always fancied the notion. If anyone can help out, or even start me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it. Is there anything else I should take from the TV while it is there still? Like the line-in plugs etc?
Question by liammusicquestion | last reply
I want to add a sub woofer to my stereo system. The sub woofer is one made from spare parts. It consists of a twelve inch speaker wired directly to binding posts. My problem is that my amplifier only has four binding posts, these are a positive and negative for the left speakers and a positive and negative for the right speakers. I am not sure where to patch in my sub woofer. Thanks for any help
Question by nurdee1 | last reply
First off, this is a question about speakers sound quality loudness and all that stuff, it doesn't really have to do with any math or equations, just experience. So I want some sub woofers, and after looking around I have determined that there are cheap ones, and very expensive ones. Now, if I get a fairly affordable 15" (med quality) will it be louder/better than a 12" one that costs $900
Question by jj.inc | last reply
Question by jorjer | last reply
I recently bought a SPX audio system from pep boys.. yes i am aware that they aren't that good. but for what they cost, what i listen to, and what i want these will work fine. BUT.. they have a low and a high input. i just fed over 15 ft of 5 wire usb wire to connect the special adapter. i was just curios if anybody has messed around with this, or have used these speakers in general?, any info. would be greatly appreciated. thanks :)
Question by slimguy379 | last reply
I have a Phillips SW 900 powered sub-woofer. The internal amplifier board has broken and I need to get a new board or an equivalent amplifier. The internal subwoofer is a 6 inch 4 ohm 40w driver.I don't want to spend any more than around 50 US dollars. The only connection that I need is one RCA jack for audio input. Thanks.
Question by nurdee1 | last reply
I have a powered sub-woofer that had a blown speaker and being that I spent the money to get a better one I thought that converting the old sub woofer amp to use for my guitar would be a good idea. I already have something to practice with but making something that can be used for gigs would be great. However, I'm not an avid or experienced electronic wizard and will need the help to complete this project. Here is the info I have on the amp itself; OUTPUT POWER 50W (4 ohms,DIN) THD 10% @ 55Hz Reproduction Freq. Response 45Hz - 150Hz Phase Switch 0, 180 degrees Input Sensitivity (Sub In) 460 mVrms AC Power 120V/60Hz Power Consumption 70W (at 1/8 rated power) Standby Power Consumption <6W What I do know that I need is a 1/4" mono plug jack and being that the input for the woofer is mono putting that in shouldn't be a problem. I'm mostly concerned about the frequencies that the amp will handle for playing a guitar and speaker recommendations. Plus any other opinions will be appreciated. I am expecting this to be a clean sounding amp and as it sits will only provide volume. An EQ is planned to be used after this amp is put together and then eventually an overdrive. I'm planning on connecting 2 50W speakers and wondering if I should hook them up in serial or parallel. With the help of my fellow instructabl-ians I will be able to post my 1st submission.
Question by 95sprtcpedrvr | last reply
My supplies A Tweeter with a frequency response of 20 KHz ~ 40 KHz, 8Ohms, 75Watts RMS/3000Watts Max, and Sensitivity of 105dB. A 4” Subwoofer with frequency response of 25Hz ~ 160Hz, 4Ohms and 25 Watts RMS Two 4” Full Range Speakers of 4Ohms and 5 Watt RMS Is the schematic mentioned in the pic is a suitable xover for my system please clear the nearest values to me
Question by subhamsingh236 | last reply
How to keep it on the floor? Close to a wall? How to adjust equalizer for the best bass and treble response ? How can I assume that I'm listening to good quality sounds(music) ? Thanx a lot.
Question by Jagath | last reply
I have a 5.1 computer speaker system and the amp is in the Sub enclosure. There are no buttons on the Sub and can only be controlled via IR remote control. The remote has stopped working and everytime the Sub is switched off the volume and bass levels are reset. Is there any way I can increase the volume from the receiver or even keep the volume and bass at its max that way I can control it from the PC instead? The remote only has a power button, volume up and down and bass increase and decrease. Ive checked the remote by pointing it a a digital camera and its not working at all.
Question by kokaine | last reply
An emergency siren that alerts drivers by making their vehicles vibrate is being tested by doctors in Hampshire, England.The Howler is being used by BASICS Hampshire, a charity made up of 20 volunteer medics who attend about 750 road traffic accidents every year. The Howler sends out low bass sound that makes the car in front "shake".Dr Rob Dawes, a volunteer doctor whose full-time job is as an hospital anaesthetist and military doctor, said people get out of the way quicker when the device is used.He said: "The main problem is on the motorways where people can't hear the sirens or see you, because often they either don't look in the mirrors or they've got the radio on quite loud."What this new siren aims to do is, because they can't see you and they can't hear you, we hope that they'll be able to feel you." BBC Story.
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
My car has enough speakers. My room has enough speakers. My wallet has enough speakers. And I don't know what to do with all these speakers. I have 10 mid range speakers, 2 tweeters, 2 sub-woofers, and 14 headphone speakers. Now I'm not really concerned with the headphone speakers because they're cheap and if they just sit in a bag for a while I'm fine with that but I'd like to put the nicer speakers to work. I don't want a surround sound system for my living room and I already have speakers there (not surround sound). I made the credit card speaker instructable. I'd like to do something with the speakers but at this point I'm thinking about just scraping them for their neodymium magnets because I can't think of what else to do with them.
Question by cdubnbird | last reply
My supplies A Tweeter with a frequency response of 20 KHz ~ 40 KHz, 8Ohms, 75Watts RMS/3000Watts Max, and Sensitivity of 105dB. A 4” Subwoofer with frequency response of 25Hz ~ 160Hz, 4Ohms and 25 Watts RMS Two 4” Full Range Speakers of 4Ohms and 5 Watt RMS Is the schematic mentioned in the pic is a suitable xover for my system please clear the nearest values to me Thanks in Advance
Question by adarshnarsaria | last reply
Well i want to know what type of home amplifier i could choose and buy that i could hook up a car sub woofer and then i could mess with the frequencies so i could get that boomy bass in my home and have 2 speakers on the side. i have tried finding such thing but im not sure if this one is good and could give the two sub speakers enough power to give it those awesome vibrations. the link to this amp ishttp://www.amazon.com/Dayton-APA150-150W-Power-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO/ref=sr_1_21?s=aht&ie;=UTF8&qid;=1293251962&sr;=1-21
Question by diabloboy | last reply
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with an aftermarket Jensen VM9512 in-dash DVD receiver. Can I hook up my subwoofer (Sony SA-W2500) to the receiver and use it successfully? I don't want to buy another sub. What I have to work with is a long enough cable to connect the sub and the receiver and a 12-volt DC - AC inverter. I'm not sure if the 12-volt plug in the back of my Jeep is turned on and off with the ignition or not, but the subwoofer has an automatic on and off mode and the power inverter is just ether on or off. Help? :]
Question by mooseman93 | last reply
Building a powered sub woofer. Enclosure and mounting comes along fine, in 2 days I'll get a 100 W RMS Velleman kit. I will only connect it to the sound card, and sometimes to an MP3 player, in which case I will split the signal in 1 or 2 stereo plus one bass channel. I have noticed very different volume levels in the bass register of various recordings, sometimes even damaging (to my other, portable bike sub woofer). The new, yet to build amp is even more overrated in respect to all the other, separately amplified sound system components--- So I need a volume control potmeter before the amp. What is the range this potentiometer should have? (right now, I plug it in the CD RCA input of another amp)
Question by BobS | last reply
I have purchased a local brand sub-woofer which does not comes with any specifications except the following: Impedance: 4 Ohms Output RMS:20 Watts Frequency Response: 40Hz~170Hz Effective Cone Diameter(D): 4" However i wanted to know the following Equivalent Volume(Vas) Free Air Resonance (Fs) Total Q (Qts) Actual System Q (Qtc) Resonance Frequency (Fb) Is there is any way to determine these Thanks in Advance....
Question by adarshnarsaria | last reply
Okay, so I had decided to build a sub-woofer for a speech topic for school, and I was wondering what it was that made speakers, or sub-woofers so loud an efficient. Granted, I know mine is far from great, while being made from ply-wood, duct-tape, and everything, but why is it that professionally manufactured speakers are so loud by them-selves with minimal power? I am using the circuits from my Logitech X-240 system, and the sub-woofer is always way louder than that of my home-made speaekr, with a significantly smaller ceramic magnet, it seems. Is it the geometry of the speaker itself, or what? What do manufacturers do in construction which improves the sound, or quality of speakers, and would using a neodymium magnet be better than using ceramic magnets? Any help is appreciated, and thank you in advance.
Question by XP1 | last reply
All that I know is that the radio doesnt even light up and stopped working after i put a signal conferter on the out put lines to connect a subwoofer. i connected it exactly how the instructions told me to do
Question by fastcar123 | last reply
Specifically when dealing with smaller, less powerful speaker. I am aware that certain sub woofers require venting, but I don't know how important sealed boxes are for midrange and tweeter.
Question by Andale_The_Great | last reply
Hey, I've got the ginormus sub woofer thats crazily loud. But the computer doesn't make much use of it, it will only work if the bass is super deep. When i plug it into my ipod it works normally. Any help to make it work better for my computer because it was originally made for my computer?
Topic by CowGuy | last reply
I'm not sure you'll be able to answer this. I was hoping to put one massive woofer (15") and send all low frequencies to it, and then put in two tweeters, hoping that it would somehow overcome the most likely overpowering bass. Is this a viable setup? Ideally, I plan on building these speakers for parties, where I just throw this in the car, drive there, and we're ready to go, don't need to deal with tiny crap speakers anymore. So, ideally, I want to create stereo sound on my tweeters, but just let it go for the woofer, since bass would obviously have no need for stereo. Would I need two crossovers, or just one? In my head, I imagine that I only need one crossover, followed by a stereo amp for the tweeters and a mono amp for the sub. I'm not 100% sure on that circuit though.I plan on using these parts:woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=290-340tweeters: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name;=296-24635-1-NDwoofer amp: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name;=296-24635-1-NDtweeter amp: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name;=296-18033-5-NDSo, with that in mind, I'd love your help. Other Miscellaneous Curiosities:1) If you have any links as to where I can figure out the most audio efficient layout in order to achieve the best sound with this, that'd be a help too.2) Do I need a mid to help beat the woofer?3) In order to figure out the required power from the supply, I just need to add the max possible wattage from all the drivers, right?Thank you, Instructibles community.
Question by headinmysights | last reply
I have f&d; f3800X 5.1 speaker. 5 satellite speakers are of 10 watts and the sub-woofer 30 watts. All works fine, but the rear pair of speakers makes low sound. Can i change the speakers with high watt speakers to get more sound?
Question by BaidantikR | last reply
I am working on creating a waterproof sound system to bring to college. I have already created a 3-d model on Google Sketchup and I have two waterproof full range speakers and one 8 inch woofer. I want it battery powered and would either use a lead acid battery or try to salvage enough Lithium Ion cells from old computer batteries to power it for a long enough period of time. The question though is where to find an inexpensive amplifier that will run on 12 volts, is small, and has decent bass. Does anyone know of some websites on which I could find an amplifier? In the past I have bought desktop systems and converted them to battery power (on the rare occasion that they actually run on 12v dc after the transformer and rectifier), so I know it is possible. Thanks!!! **edit** It seems I forgot to include the specifications of the speakers! Anyway, here they are: 2 - "high fidelity full range speaker", 5" dual cone, "power capacity:30Watts system", 7 oz. ceramic magnet, "4 or. 8 Ohms system" (I measured 3.6 ohms with an inexpensive multimeter), They are on Ebay!! 1 - "Model: Acoustic Audio MARBASS8 Color: Black Acoustic Audio 650 Watt 8” Car/Marine Audio High Performance Subwoofer 650 Watts Peak Power Handling / 325 Watts RMS Power Handling Recommended Power: 30 Watts to 650 Watts 2” Parabolic RFL Voice Coil 60 oz. Magnet 4 Ohm Impedance Oversized Butyl Rubber Surround Poly Zirconium Cone Polyimide Voice Coil Former Mid Q Design for Versatility in Enclosure Compatibility Flat Progressive Roll Spider CEA Cooling Technology Vented & Extended Pole Piece Low Carbon Top & Bottom Piece Weather-Resistant Design" This is on Ebay too!
Question by HowToEngineer | last reply
I have quite a few questions seeing as how this is my first audio system for cars. 1. The amplifier I am useing has an input near the power inputs that reads REM. My guess is that it is the remote wire the acts as a switch for the amp. so where does this "remote wire" originate from? i.e. where do I plug that wire into my fuse box? 2. If the REM wire is a "on-off" switch will I still need the + wire pluged in? 3. If the REM is not a on-off switch will i need a separte toggle switch? 4. This box is custom made and not factory made. therefore is not built to fit my car specifily. How do I keep the box and the amp from sliding around in my trunk with out drilling any holes or any modifications like that? 5. How do I test the whattage of an amp that does not list that specification? 6. How do I get signal from the deck to the trunk if the rear speakers are located in the doors and there is no way to take apart the dashboard? 7. How do I bridge left and right signal together without blowing out my amp or car stereo? 8. In the front doors I notice, when I remove a cover, 2 wires with its own connector at the end the leads into nothing. My guess is this is a tweeter output. After putting a multimeter to this plug, to insure it is not a turn signal output, I notice the multimeter does not pick up any voltage, or any ohm ratings. so how would I measure the impeadence of the stereo using this plug? 9. I notice in the trunk 4 wires with its own plug that have no place to be. I made sure this was not simply an extra brake light out put by removing the interior wall panal from the inside of the trunk lid to find that brake light plug in there. so my guess is that this is a subwoofer output. is it possible for me to use it if it is a sub output? if so how?
Question by fastcar123 | last reply
Hiya, i want to put 75 leds either side of my sub woofer which act as a sound level meter. there's a picture shown on how it would look like. 40 Green LEDs 20 Yellow LEDs 15 Red LEDs im have difficulties trying to find the perfect circuit right for this project. any ideas? thanks in advance.
Topic by Major_M | last reply
There is a lot of conflicting information on this and I would like to know if my speakers/amp would get damaged. Using 80w speakers and a 50w amp will there be any problems with running on full volume? And if I got a 100w amp with those 80w speakers will there be damage, even if I added a heat sink to the back where the voice coil is? The speakers say 80w max but not really reliable as they are well priced Chinese speakers. Speakers: 80W Audio Sensitivity: 88dB Frequency Range (Hz): 100-20Khz 4 Ohm Amp: Efficiency: 90% Rated output power: 2*50W+100W Working voltage: DC18V to DC24V The maximum output current: 4A Frequency Response: 20Hz-20KHz Can drive a 3-16 ohm speakers In the condition of rated voltage 24V The sub woofer channel at rated voltage 24V state can drive 2-16 ohm sub woofer Bass cut-off frequency independent regulation 20HZ-20KHZ adjustable Very confusing conflicting info online with under rated amps causing clipping and over powered amps frying the speakers. Originally I thought it was only bad to over power the speakers. Any help about what is worse, is appreciated.
Question by bonze77 | last reply
For a future project (blue barrel infra sub woofer with ducted fan) I'm already looking for parts. I see most amplifiers and amp chips (like the TDA7294) have a frequency response usually 20 - 20,000 Hz. But I'm interested in a range from 0- ca 40 Hz. As far as I understand, the low cutoff is to protect the driver (speaker). Would it be possible to circumvent the low cutoff, or would I have to build from scratch? (I'm thinking in a 70 - 150 W RMS range).
Question by BobS | last reply
Hello everyone, recently I'm making a sound box that have a sub-woofer sound system that works pretty fine, but for my usage I need to add a dynamic mic input which needs a pre-amp. before sending the mic signal to the sub. aux. I found this circuit and tried to apply it, I didn't get anything at all, but the surprising thing that when I connected an electret mic, it worked like a charm ! So, what is the problem I'm missing ! if anyone have any Ideas or better circuits for my purpose please feel free to give any ideas, thanks :) Note : even the electret mic didn't work before I canceled the capacitor after the mic input, I'm using uA-741NC @ 12V.
Question by Hawk-Eagle | last reply
Good day to all, i'm new to this site hope i can gain more knowledge in electronics here, since i have been doing alot of programming lately.. i am planning to build my first higher wattage amplifier for both guitar and bass, i already have built smokey amp and its other cousins like the ruby amp and some guitar effects. i will build the two amps simultaneously and put it in one housing.. the speakers will be separated and also the circuits and all.. does any one have schematics for this kind of amplifiers?? it should bea solid state amplifier, because its hard to find tubes here and also it is expensive.. correct me if i'm wrong 1. "instrument >>>preamp>>>poweramp>>>>speaker" ? 2. is it possible for example to use a smokey amp as the preamp section and connect it to a 50 watt power amp? 3. what type of speaker should i use for the guitar and for the bass? should it be a woofer or sub-woofer? coz i dont have a clue on speakers.. tanx in advance..
Question by VAustin89 | last reply
Right so I have a Ministry of Sound, MT2, Power Tower, HI FI System. It has two external speakers which are fairly crap and a decent sub woofer. I want to take out the sound board and the screen interface, des guard the tape and CD player and remount them into a new housing. Currently the output sockets are 3.5mm headphone sockets which the speakers which came with it originally plugged into. However I have much better quality bookshelf speakers which I want to hook up. Is it possible to hook up my new speakers effectively turning e self contained stereo system into an amplifier?
Topic by Lopan | last reply
Hi, today what I'm trying to ask is how could i get a car amplifier working in a household environment (i know how to get the PSU going and that side of stuff) My question is what sort of box will I need for the sub woofer and how will I wire it up will i need a crossover if so can you guide me of what to buy anything I should know before I attempt this will this work or am I just atempting something that will end up in a mess?
Question by Daniel Deacon | last reply
Pyle PSBV200BT. Audio amp IC is STA540. Speakers and marked ratings: Two tweeters @ 10W, 4 Ohm; two midrange @ 5W , 8 Ohm; and one sub-woofer @ 30W, 8 Ohms. PS is 18VAC@2.5A. Am I missing something. The numbers seem so wrong that I must be overlooking something significant, not just overseas marketing greed. The Pyle sounds ok, but my 17-year-old 100W Creative 5.1 PC speakers blow it away.
Question by MarioL111
Can anybody get me a an amplifier schematic which can drive an 8" sub-woofer, two 8" Speakers and two tweeters? Actually my neighbor built an amplifier which is driving the same mentioned above . He resides in the nearby apartment still when he uses that amplifier i can feel the bass hear the treble and get the music to my ears sitting in my apartments. When i asked him the schematics he laughed at me and said that I am a noob of drove me out of his house, ARROGANT MAN. So please guys help me out in this regard. Thanks in Advance
Question by adarshnarsaria | last reply
What kind of speaker system do you have? Doesn't matter if it's computer speakers or concert stacks :p Me: -Kenwood 1060vr surround amp 110 watts per channel - 550watts -Technics tower speakers, twin woofer mutual effect system, 230 watts each Mirage nano sub (canadian made) with ribbed foam surround (clean sounding!) - 300 watts I still have yet to get the rear channels set up, but it's useless without the remote as you need it to turn the surround channels on *has pissed off look*. Anyone have a kenwood 1060vr remote??
Topic by Punkguyta | last reply
I have an old set of computer speakers that run on 12v dc, I ripped it out and set it up in a radioshack enclosure with 2 9volt batteries connected to a cut-off power cable that fit the main board. (I realize that the 2 9volt batteries are over the 12v mark but its needed because with only the single 9v battery it cannot handle my cardboard box sub-woofer) I want to take 2 rechargeable 9volt batteries and wire them within the case (because unscrewing the case and taking the thing apart sucks to replace batteries) and I have to be able to charge it by pluging it into an outlet. I have moderate soldering skills and work with electrics often although I dont often use high voltages like 120ac wall current :) Can you guys help me out?
Topic by acer5050 | last reply
Hello, I have a little sub woofer box and 4 speakers connected to it, it has a line out 3.5 mm headphone jack which i connect my iphone to, the Subwoofer box has a power cable which plugs into the mains power. This is for work and it does the job just fine. my question is though i want to put a USB socket in the subwoofer box so i can charge my iphone at the same time via USB. Can i splice my usb socket extension cable into the power cable?? The power cable does not have an AC adaptor on the end if it just the plug. If this cant be done How can i get power to usb. Thanks in Advance.
Topic by Benji29 | last reply
Hello, I recently was reorganizing my desk and I decided to use these tubes to organize the cables and such. I was just wiring up the speakers when I noticed I was using too much tubing so I cut off the excess. In the process of cutting I accidentally cut the cable to my left speaker. The left speaker is completely independent from the right and only connects to the sub-woofer. My question is, if I were to repair is and I lose some length in the cable, will that disrupt the sync in audio? In other words, because the left cable is shorter, the electricity will travel faster and produce sound from the left before the right (theoretically). I am also producing music so I kinda need to make sure that the speakers are in sync. Do you think that if some loss in length will affect the audio?
Question by Iridium7 | last reply
I have a Panasonic home theatre system, standard set up. ( 2 front, 2 rear,1 centre and 1 Sub woofer). Unfortunately, because of the room layout, I'm not able to site any of the speakers in an ideal location. So, I have to make do with the best poss. One of the rear speakers is close to where I sit, the other 3mtrs diagonally opposite. I want to insert some form of volume control into the feed of the adjacent speaker. So that when set the rear speaker volume level there is a better balance between the near and distant speaker. I am unable to access any other wiring or components apart from the speaker feed wire, so it has to be something in line. I tried a dimmer switch (dont laugh) but that attenuated the signal too much, and was barely audible. The speaker is 6 ohm imp and 60wat power input. Any suggestions appreciated, apart from buying a new house!
Question by rogedodge | last reply
Hi all! I am after a circuit that will mix a stereo source together (into mono) then pipe it out to a 5.1 speaker system. Obviously the simple solution is to wire the left and rights together and then patch into each speaker on the 5.1 speaker system. However it causes noise and other audio artifacts. I am thinking some form of op-amp type circuit to mix the L and R. That then either can be directly split between the speakers or goes into another pre-amp circuit for each speaker output (maybe even a band-pass for the sub woofer). Just to explain what this is for: I want to have music in a workshop. At the moment we have a standard radio which, to be heard the other side of the 'shop, is quite loud. Those near it then turn it down and arguments start (not quite but you get the idea!). I want to use my old 5.1 computer speaker system to spread the sound around the 'shop evenly so the volume is constant no matter where you are - a poor mans PA system.
Question by smartroad | last reply
Okay, so I would like to build an amplifier or something that powers several speakers, as a stereo. I would like to be able to have several inputs such as RCA, 3.5mm or 1/4in headphone jacks, perhaps HDMI if possible, coaxial, SPDIF, and perhaps some banana plugs for audio experiments or something like that. I am not sure of what type of driver would be necessary to power a sub-woofer separately, or how to integrate that into such a system. I have noticed that for 7.1 and 5.1 surround sound systems they have specific out puts for different speakers in assorted locations, and I do not know if they have different frequencies, or only part of the sound. How would I create that? I suppose if necessary I would build it from schematics, but I would like to avoid creating several circuits on separate power inputs. Also how does the ohm rating of speakers affect the output? Any help is greatly appreciated, and I am sorry if I come across as un-knowledgeable.
Question by XP1
Hi yall, I was a very stupid person tonight, but I have learned from my mistakes. In short I fed my DC power supply AC voltage INTO it, I was working on a subwoofers power board this afternoon, trying to diagnose why it is continually blowing fuses, anyway later I finally figure out that the 8A bridge rectifier is visually burnt as well as two small ceramic caps near it, taking the most obvious route I replace them with the same spec parts and power on, no activity but its not burning fuses at least for now. I usually have my multimeter connected right to my 40V old "Lambda" (crap brand) power supply on the same test leads, so I can get an accurate reading of how much power I am putting INTO the circuit. I rarely work on live circuits and should have known this. I attempt to get a reading with the meter while the sub woofer is plugged in and turned on. Little do I realize that the meter and the power supply are both the same leads, so I am putting AC power INTO my power supply where it should only be outputting power. I of course see the power supplys indicators light up and show a spike of the max 40V and then slowly dying down to 0 then I hear something fizzle and smell electronics heating up. I shut it off obviously after only about a few seconds Now I cant even get it to power a lamp or LED, NO MORE POWER. Should I cut my losses and just get a new power supply or try and salvage mine?
Topic by jackillac92 | last reply