Has anyone seen the circle around the sun today on may 13th its cool
Topic by legomaster50 | last reply
This packaging reuse takes 140 Capri Sun juice bags and turns them into a full-on jacket. It's an impressive bit of reuse. I can't imagine drinking that much Capri Sun myself, but if that's your thing then why not flaunt it to the rest of the world? Capri Sun Jacket
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
I'm in New York, writing up my research log book because it's due tomorrow... The sun's beginning to rise after that terrible storm we've had today, it's looking quite nice other than the occasional hard wind. Anyone else on the east coast?
Topic by T3h_Muffinator | last reply
The name of the mission is Solar Probe+ (pronounced "Solar Probe plus"). It's a heat-resistant spacecraft designed to plunge deep into the sun's atmosphere where it can sample solar wind and magnetism first hand. Launch could happen as early as - (continued here)
Topic by bumpus | last reply
Question | last reply
So, I'm working on this thing, its just an idea right now so I won't delve into it too deep, but I want to use a single RGB LED behind a frosted plexi screen as a Sun and another as a Moon, that will move on a clock motor. Could I get a white with a yellow tinge and a white with a blue tinge with a RGB and a few fixed resistors? I'm just wondering if that would be possible. Would I just set the red and green components to 70% and the blue to 100% for the moon and the red and green at 100% and blue at 70% for the sun? Thanks for the help. I don't have any RGBs so I'm just trying to theorize right now.
Topic by mattthegamer463 | last reply
So recently I saw the 'ible on here about how to make a sun jar, which I think is really awesome, and I want to make one now... The question I have though, is if anybody knows how to make a circuit, without programming that will make the light raise and lower in intensity, so basically, it has a very slow pulsate but it never turns off and doesn't go super dark either... I have been trying to address this problem myself for some time, but haven't come up with a clever solution yet. --Thanks!!
Question by arhodes18 | last reply
Hi I want to install a hot water system, as cheap and simple as possible. The best idea I have found is to connect a new pipe to the main storage tank, and run it the 70 metres to the house, overground, so the sun heats it. This will work, but it needs a one-way valve at the tank end to stop the hot water entering the storage tank and heating that. The normal plumbing valves for this need a high working pressure, but our supply has only 2 metres of head at the point of connection. Anyone know how I can get round this? Phil
Topic by asimplerlife | last reply
I want to make a plate/bowl with mirors that reflect the light to a certain point.if i put the ceiling lamp on and use that light to aim all the mirrors to one point. wil it work in the sun too ?
Question by rabarbarbaar! | last reply
Hi there, I have a question and perhaps you could be of help to me, So my question is , is it possible to use cheap Mylar blankets(parabolic form) to concentrate the sun light, so as it would be able to cut through metal. My idea is to use 3 Mylar sheets each 1m square which will reflect the light towards another one which will work as a collector and then further concentrate the light to about half a millimeter. Doing the math (0.5mm²/3m²) is more than 16 million (ok there will be a lot of loss , lets say 50 percent). The question is, is this worth trying cause i don't want to waste time and money on this. So if someone knows why this wont work , it would be very helpful. thanks in advance
Topic by Z3r01f1n1ty | last reply
Hi I would like to know how can i recover from sun tan and keep my body in it's original colour.Usually i would get tan after being exposed to sun for some time and recover the colour after no exposure to sun(At noon) for 2-3 weeks.I used to get sun tan for my legs ,face and hands. I would appreciate some help other than suggestions for not going out :D regards Arun
Topic by Nr-Think different
after reading the capri sun welding instructable i was thinking of making an outdoor tarp out of them to cover my lawnmowers. maybe even putting it on the roof in summer to reflect heat and reduce cooling costs. my kids love these things so i have a lot of them.
Question by dannemillerd | last reply
I'm trying to determine return on investment for a PV system on my house in Ferndale, MI, a Detroit suburb. I need to better understand how much sunlight I can count on in a given year to determine if it's feasible to install a grid-tied PV system in place.
Question by hobbssamuelj | last reply
After seeing the recent Sun Jar I'ble, I had an idea (not even concrete enought to be a Completable) for an interestingly extended version. There now exist LEDs for infrared, visible red, green, and blue, and near UV.It should be possible, with a mix of small low-voltage constant-current power supplies and pulse modulators, to construct a multiple-LED light source which roughly models what we perceive as the solar "spectrum." I don't mean formally reproducing the raw wavelength distribution, but rather the combination of intensities we see (or measure with a thermometer) in a prism- or grating-spread spectral display.Coupling such a circuit to a solar cell would allow you to build a "Sun Jar" which "collects sunlight" during the day and "releases sunlight" at night. As I said, just an idea...
Topic by kelseymh | last reply
In the late 1980s, I designed, built and programmed a computer-controlled heliostat. Its mirror reflected sunlight into my living-room, making it much brighter. It worked excellently with almost no attention for many years, until a neighbour's tree grew and blocked sunlight from reaching the mirror. The computer was a Commodore VIC 20, which was old even then, and had only 4.5 kilobytes of memory. The program I wrote, in Commodore BASIC, fitted into that space and handled all the control functions. It even included a few "bells and whistles". For example, at night-time the mirror was automatically parked face downward to reduce the buildup of dust. That particular program would work only on a VIC, and I haven't seen any of those for many years. However, I have recently taken the astronomical and trigonometrical parts of the program and made them into a new program which I'll append below. It calculates the position of the sun in the sky, as azimuth (true compass bearing) and angle of elevation, as seen from anywhere on the earth at any time on any date. It also calculates the required orientation of a mirror if it is to reflect sunlight in any desired direction. With the addition of some code to enable the computer to control motors, this could become the software for a computerized sun-tracker or heliostat. I'll append two versions of the program. The first is in QBasic, and contains quite a lot of explanatory comments. The second version is in a very generic BASIC, and has been tested on many implementations of the language. It even has line numbers! Personally, I prefer the QBasic version. The coding is more elegant. However, the generic version is likely to be useful to more people. It's public-domain. Use it for any purpose, even commercially. Enjoy! dow ' SunAlign.BAS (Version for QBasic and similar dialects) ' Calculates position of sun in sky, as azimuth (compass bearing ' measured clockwise from True North) and angle of elevation, as ' seen from any place on earth, on any date and any time. ' Also calculates alignment of a heliostat mirror. ' David Williams ' P.O. Box 48512 ' 3605 Lakeshore Blvd. West ' Toronto, Ontario. M8W 4Y6 ' Canada ' Initially dated 2007 Jul 07 ' This version 2008 Jan 13 ' All angles in radians except in i/o routines DegIn and DegOut DECLARE SUB C2P (X, Y, Z, AZ, EL) DECLARE SUB P2C (AZ, EL, X, Y, Z) DECLARE FUNCTION Ang (X, Y) DECLARE SUB DegIn (P$, X) DECLARE SUB DegOut (P$, X) CONST PY = 3.1415926536# ' "PI" not assignable in some BASICs CONST DR = 180 / PY ' degree / radian factor W = 2 * PY / 365 ' earth's mean orbital angular speed in radians/day WR = PY / 12' earth's speed of rotation relative to sun (radians/hour) C = -23.45 / DR ' reverse angle of earth's axial tilt in radians ST = SIN(C) ' sine of reverse tilt CT = COS(C) ' cosine of reverse tilt E2 = 2 * .0167 ' twice earth's orbital eccentricity SN = 10 * W ' 10 days from December solstice to New Year (Jan 1) SP = 12 * W ' 12 days from December solstice to perihelion CLS Menu: PRINT "1. Calculate sun's position" PRINT "2. Calculate mirror orientation" PRINT "3. Calculate both" PRINT "4. Quit program" PRINT PRINT "Which? (1 - 4)"; DO S% = VAL(INKEY$) LOOP UNTIL S% >= 1 AND S% <= 4 PRINT S% IF S% = 4 THEN END ' Note: For brevity, no error checks on user inputs PRINT PRINT "Use negative numbers for directions opposite to those shown." PRINT DegIn "Observer's latitude (degrees North)", LT DegIn "Observer's longitude (degrees East)", LG INPUT "Time Zone (+/- hours from GMT/UT)"; TZN INPUT "Time (HH,MM) (24-hr format)"; HR, MIN INPUT "Date (M#,D#)"; Mth%, Day% PRINT CL = PY / 2 - LT ' co-latitude D = INT(30.6 * ((Mth% + 9) MOD 12) + 58.5 + Day%) MOD 365 ' day of year (D = 0 on Jan 1) A = W * D + SN ' orbit angle since solstice at mean speed B = A + E2 * SIN(A - SP) ' angle with correction for eccentricity C = (A - ATN(TAN(B) / CT)) / PY SL = PY * (C - INT(C + .5))' solar longitude relative to mean position C = ST * COS(B) DC = ATN(C / SQR(1 - C * C)) ' solar declination (latitude) ' arcsine of C. ASN not directly available in QBasic LD = (HR - TZN + MIN / 60) * WR + SL + LG ' longitude difference CALL P2C(LD, DC, sX, sY, sZ) ' polar axis (perpend'r to azimuth plane) CALL C2P(sY, sZ, sX, sAZ, sEL) ' horizontal axis CALL P2C(sAZ - CL, sEL, sY, sZ, sX) ' rotate by co-latitude IF sZ < 0 THEN BEEP PRINT "Sun Below Horizon" PRINT GOTO NewCalc END IF IF S% <> 2 THEN ' calculate and display sun's position CALL C2P(sX, sY, sZ, sAZ, sEL) ' vertical axis DegOut "Sun's azimuth: ", sAZ DegOut "Sun's elevation: ", sEL PRINT END IF IF S% > 1 THEN ' calculate and display mirror orientation PRINT "For target direction of light reflected from mirror:" DegIn "Azimuth of target direction (degrees)", tAZ DegIn "Elevation of target direction (degrees)", tEL PRINT CALL P2C(tAZ, tEL, tX, tY, tZ) ' target vector X,Y,Z CALL C2P(sX + tX, sY + tY, sZ + tZ, mAZ, mEL) ' angle bisection by vector addition PRINT "Mirror aim direction (perpendicular to surface):" DegOut "Azimuth: ", mAZ DegOut "Elevation: ", mEL PRINT END IF NewCalc: PRINT PRINT "New Calculation" PRINT GOTO Menu FUNCTION Ang (X, Y) ' calculates angle from positive X axis to vector to (X,Y) SELECT CASE SGN(X) CASE 1: Ang = ATN(Y / X) CASE -1: Ang = ATN(Y / X) + PY CASE ELSE: Ang = SGN(Y) * PY / 2 END SELECT END FUNCTION SUB C2P (X, Y, Z, AZ, EL) ' Cartesian to Polar. Convert from X,Y,Z to AZ,EL EL = Ang(SQR(X * X + Y * Y), Z) A = Ang(Y, X) IF A < PY THEN AZ = A + PY ELSE AZ = A - PY END SUB SUB DegIn (P$, X) ' Input angle in degrees and convert to radians PRINT P$; INPUT N X = N / DR END SUB SUB DegOut (P$, X) ' converts radians to degrees, rounds to nearest 0.1, and prints S$ = LTRIM$(STR$(INT(10 * ABS(X * DR) + .5))) IF S$ = "3600" THEN S$ = "0" IF LEN(S$) = 1 THEN S$ = "0" + S$ IF X < 0 THEN IF VAL(S$) THEN S$ = "-" + S$ PRINT P$; LEFT$(S$, LEN(S$) - 1); "."; RIGHT$(S$, 1); " degrees" END SUB SUB P2C (AZ, EL, X, Y, Z) ' Polar to Cartesian. Convert from AZ,EL to X,Y,Z Z = SIN(EL) C = -COS(EL) X = C * SIN(AZ) Y = C * COS(AZ) END SUB 100 REM SunAlign.BAS (Generic BASIC version) 110 REM Calculates position of sun in sky, as azimuth (compass bearing 120 REM measured clockwise from True North) and angle of elevation, as 130 REM seen from any place on earth, on any date and any time. 140 REM Also calculates alignment of a heliostat mirror. 150 REM David Williams 160 REM P.O. Box 48512 170 REM 3605 Lakeshore Blvd. West 180 REM Toronto, Ontario. M8W 4Y6 190 REM Canada 200 REM Original date 2007 Jul 07. This version 2007 Oct 07 210 REM Note: For brevity, no error checks on user inputs 220 CLS 230 PRINT "Use negative numbers for opposite directions." 240 INPUT "Observer's latitude (degrees North)"; LT 250 INPUT "Observer's longitude (degrees East)"; LG 260 INPUT "Date (M#,D#)"; Mth, Day 270 INPUT "Time (HH,MM) (24-hr format)"; HR, MIN 280 INPUT "Time Zone (+/- hours from GMT/UT)"; TZN 290 PY = 4 * ATN(1): REM "PI" not assignable in some BASICs 300 DR = 180 / PY: REM degree/radian factor 310 W = 2 * PY / 365: REM earth's mean orbital speed in radians/day 320 C = -23.45 / DR: REM reverse angle of axial tilt in radians 330 ST = SIN(C): REM sine of reverse tilt 340 CT = COS(C): REM cosine of reverse tilt 350 E2 = 2 * .0167: REM twice earth's orbital eccentricity 360 SP = 12 * W: REM 12 days from December solstice to perihelion 370 D = INT(30.6 * ((Mth + 9) MOD 12) + 58.5 + Day) MOD 365 380 A = W * (D + 10): REM Solstice 10 days before Jan 1 390 B = A + E2 * SIN(A - SP) 400 C = (A - ATN(TAN(B) / CT)) / PY 410 ET = 720 * (C - INT(C + .5)): REM equation of time 420 REM in 720 minutes, earth rotates PI radians relative to sun 430 C = ST * COS(B) 440 EL = ATN(C / SQR(1 - C * C)) * DR: REM solar declination 450 AZ = 15 * (HR - TZN) + (MIN + ET) / 4 + LG: REM longitude diff 460 GOSUB 800 470 R = SQR(Y * Y + Z * Z) 480 AX = Y: AY = Z: GOSUB 710 490 A = AA + (90 - LT) / DR 500 Y = R * COS(A) 510 Z = R * SIN(A) 520 GOSUB 740 530 PRINT : REM AZ & EL are now sun's azimuth & elevation in degrees 540 IF EL < 0 THEN PRINT "Sun Below Horizon": END 550 R = AZ: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Sun's azimuth: "; R; " degrees" 560 R = EL: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Sun's elevation: "; R; " degrees" 570 PRINT 580 INPUT "Calculate heliostat mirror alignment (y/n)"; K$ 590 IF K$ = "N" OR K$ = "n" THEN END 600 SX = X: SY = Y: SZ = Z 610 PRINT 620 INPUT "Azimuth of target direction (degrees)"; AZ 630 INPUT "Elevation of target direction (degrees)"; EL 640 GOSUB 800 650 X = X + SX: Y = Y + SY: Z = Z + SZ: GOSUB 740 660 PRINT : REM AZ & EL are now aim azimuth & elevation in degrees 670 PRINT "Mirror aim direction (perpendicular to surface):" 680 R = AZ: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Azimuth: "; R; " degrees" 690 R = EL: GOSUB 870: PRINT "Elevation: "; R; " degrees" 700 END 710 IF AX = 0 THEN AA = SGN(AY) * PY / 2: RETURN 720 AA = ATN(AY / AX): IF AX < 0 THEN AA = AA + PY 730 RETURN 740 AX = SQR(X * X + Y * Y): AY = Z: GOSUB 710 750 EL = AA * DR 760 AX = Y: AY = X: GOSUB 710 770 AZ = AA * DR 780 IF AZ < 180 THEN AZ = AZ + 180 ELSE AZ = AZ - 180 790 RETURN 800 E = EL / DR 810 A = AZ / DR 820 Z = SIN(E) 830 C = 0 - COS(E): REM Won't work without "0" in Liberty Basic 840 X = C * SIN(A) 850 Y = C * COS(A) 860 RETURN 870 R = INT(10 * R + .5): IF R = 3600 THEN R = 0 880 R = R / 10 890 RETURN
Topic by david williams | last reply
Do you need to know more??
Question by alpharreta | last reply
In south africa this morning (johannesburg) the sun has a halo,its very beautiful,does anyone know why? Local opinions have varied from ,water vapour to something to do with jupiter to the end of the world is here,any ideas?
Question by afridave | last reply
Question by kamalgear | last reply
Question | last reply
I've just built a big model solar system for use in class, and i'm trying to think of what to use for the sun. The planets are roughly the right sort of varying sizes, and Jupiter is ten inches in diameter, which means the sun needs to be pretty big. I'm thinking of a big hemisphere to cover up the base, like half a big plastic ball, but I'm not sure what to use as the size lets out most plastic balls that i've seen. All suggestions welcome!
Topic by lillyman | last reply
I stumbled across this sun panel made from beer cans. It's in Swedish and I'm not sure if it's been posted here before. But if you haven't seen it before please check it out. http://www.brunzell.com/projekt/solfangare/index.htm I've mailed the guy that made it and if I can get his permission I'll translate the instructions and post it here.
Topic by Argot | last reply
A lot of us have machine, bikes or such with plastic parts.And if you are in a country where a UV rating of 10 is a nice spring day already plastics seem to fade away and fail quicker.Over the years I experimented with a lot of things to either prevent this or to fix it.If you ever had your old farm basher parked next to the same but sun protect model you almost start crying LOLColors look like you painted a white haze over it, white plastics turn yelloish and clear plastic, like on the head lamps of your car go dull and yellow.You might know what I mean if have really nice and long summers...So what is the reason for this problem that only seems to affect things in hot and sunny countries?A lot of plastics are actually fully UV resistant and they won't be harmed or changed.Great but they still suffer! ?Not really, it is the softeners, fillers and pigments that suffer most.In the case of clear plastics it is usually polycarbonate mixes and the culprit is the scratch resistant coating applied on it.The hard UV rays promote the oxidisation and break down.So whatever is not resistant to UV will suffer in and mostly on the outside of the plastic.Problem is that UV penetrates quite deep and as a result we often find that UV protecting agents are added.Sometimes as a coating, sometimes as a mix throughout.Older cars often show peeling paint onthe roof or boot lid - the UV protecting in the coating has failed or was just bad.Back in the old days there was whiteners in washing powder, we had white sheets for the beds and other things and leaving them in the sun to dry actually made them whiter and kept them looking fresh - a positive use for UV bleeching ;)In terms of real prevention options are almsot fully limited to keeping the xposure as low and short as possible.There is no clear coating you can apply to keep the UV out that won't affect the looks of the paint job or plastic.And not all of these coating work on all plastics.One option though is to keep the plastic clean and shiny.A highly reflective surface will not scatter the sunlight as much throughout the plastic.Oxidisation is limited as well, especially if you add some polish every now and then.In a lot of cases though this is either no option or way too time consuming for us to keep it up.As a result we start to neglect the routing here and there andover they years the plastic ages faster than what it should.How to fix or restored faded plastic without paying an arm and a leg for specialised products?White is always nice and if you have a washing machine or fridge close enough to a window you might have noticed over the years that the plastic parts now appear a bit darker or slightly yellow, often just on one side of the thing...Old electronics, like Gameboys are doing this too.Red is my other favourite as like black it produces a white haze easy.Either way the solution is pretty much the same: reduce the oxidisation by oxidising it more ;)Whatever is really oxidised in a bad way changed the color instead of just breaking dow the pigments.UV does this...On the other hand hydrogen peroxide bleeches and breaks down stains....As long as parts are small enough it is quite easy to put them in a zip lock bag to submerge them for a few hours or over night in hydrogen peroxide.Otherwise use a suitable container and keep turning and moving the parts around every hour or so until all looks even again.In severe cases and if the plastic permits it you can also add a small amount of diluted hydrochloric acid.Talking diluted! So that means of a low concentration!In most cases though a day or two with just hydrogen peroxide will suffice.Do a little test first though as some plastics might just be caoted and either show no reaction at all or the coating has pigment that break down in the peroxide - I never had this happen to me but I have read reports of it and seen the pics of the results.When it comes to really big parts, like the spoiler on your car or plastic covers on your bike and boat it can be impossible to submerge them even partially.In most cases people try to fix these by polishing them until the faded areas are litterally removed.A much nicer and easier way to cheat is to use a simple car polish that is suitable for plastic parts.Means it should have no warning on it to keep away for plastic parts ;)Wearing proper gloves you can add some hydrogen peroxide to a small amount of the polish.And I mean polish, not the stuff to fix a dull or bad paint - what you would use on a new car...The trick is that the polishing cleans the surface while the peroxide works on the staining and fading.You just don't let the stuff dry after applying it and polish the dry stufff of, you keep going wet until your color comes back ;)After that give it a final polish the normal way with just the polishing compound and no peroxide.Clear plastic...If it is just yor headlamps or other smaller parts for a once off it might make sense to go to a auto shop and buy a head lamp polishing kit.Thing with clear plastics is that only too often they come in shapes or installations that make a full access impossible.Like your head lamps that you can only reach from the front as they are glued into the assembly.Another problem is that they are aslo almost always coated with some protective stuff.If hydrogen peroxide alone does not help here then polishing will always remove some of this coating or even all of it.If the coating happens to be the culprit of the fading and yellowing then you of course get it all nice and shiny by just polishing the coating off - but you also loose all benefits of the coating.Some car models have headlamps where just the coating discolors and once removed the plastic start to crack under the exposure from UV and through all the tiny damages it get when driving around.For things like clear covers over a little display there is the problem as access as you might not be able to remove the window pane, a replacement might be the best option.Hey! Why all the fuzz? I use just oil and it works perfectly!!You can find online videos and full tutorials where people show you that just a bit of some oil and polishing it off with a lint free cloth brings all you faded colors back out again.Don't be fooled just because it works so great!Take a frosted piece of glass and put some oil on it and it becomes clear enough to see through again.Even works with very thin paper...What the oil really deos is to coat all these microscopic imperfections.And with the light now having a very easy way to get through it won't scatter anymore and the fading appears to be gone.Once the oil is gone the plastic looks as bad as before, hence the need to use an oil that dries off.Worst thing is that these oil affect the softeners in the plastic.In some cases this might be benefitial in most it is really bad though.Like any other solvent the oil mixes with these softeners and over time they are removed from the plastic, the more you use oil to keep it shine the more brittle you plastic might get.Once you did that it is next to impossible to remove the oil from within the damaged plastic and only way out i to polish it off after sanding it.The benefit of seemingly protecting the plastic from dirt and water is short lived as well.Some old oil you got on it would just wipe off but with the added oil in the plastic it can now penetrate.And that little black dot becomes hard to get rid of...Last words of wisdom:Check the type of plastic before you decide on anything!Especially when it comes to the black plastic with fibre re-inforcements.Do a tiny spot test in an area that is not so important before going full scale!Trust me, nothing is worse than only realising too late you selecting of choice is actually removing the pigments from the plastic - hint: if your cloth tunrs into the same color as your plastic then something is wrong.Use PPE! Gloves and face shield or at least goggle are a must have when working with hydrogen peroxide or acids.Even at just 3% the peroxide will bleech your skin quickly and long exposure won't be better either.Once you got a drop of peroxide in your eye you will never forget the googles, so just wear them right away please ;)If the fading is due to the breakdown of pigments that give the color like a white haze on red or blue plastic you might still have to polish off that thinnest layer on the surface to remove the fully bleached out layer.This however is really quickly done and after that the smooth surface will last much longer.Work clean!! It is of no use to start before you actually fully cleaned the plastic!
Topic by Downunder35m
What kind of sensors could i use to track the sun (make a robot move toward it)
Question by William930 | last reply
Hi there, I'm interested in creating some of the projects reusing capri sun pouches but would like to know if there is a need to close/ seal the straw hole on the pouch. I was wondering if water or dust will go in it once the pouches are sewn together. Thanking you for the response, Mina.
Question by lascalecasmunoz | last reply
Why Do planets Move ? Which force keep them moving in thier orbits? google says..... because of the gravitational pull of the sun....... but isn't it the force which only keeps the planets in their orbits......... ? is it also the same gravitational pull of the sun which keeps them moving ? if so , then how ?
Question by _Boltz_ | last reply
Question | last reply
Hi i was watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBWi3NtND68 ( using a bottle filled with water to reflect light inside the house ) may be someone can can use mirrors or magnifier to run a solar panel inside the house and do more than just light . ( heating water , spread lights to other rooms ,cool the house , etc ... ) thanks Michael
Topic by pacbe11 | last reply
I want to know how many Km's away from the sun the earth is. Please can you help me cos i cant find out on google!!! :2)
Question by henster22 | last reply
In Greek islands they sun dry whole octopus possibly to tendirize and prepare the octopus for the grill. Cooking fresh octopus without preboiling is the key for me for the real taste. I think they also do this method in pacific islands.
Question by teomang | last reply
Interesting article I read today. B.C Mud coresDoesn't fit with the current orthodoxy of climate science in the media, but it's very interesting.
Topic by royalestel | last reply
Short: Was wondering if the community had any suggestions for the brightest, longest lasting, most shade tolerant Solar LED lamps? Long: Working on Sun Jar's for little Christmas gifts. Currently using some cheep 2 dollar Solar LED lamps that fit perfectly and seem better than the slightly more expensive one I experimented with, but neither has the endurance to last all night. Anyone found any which performance blew them away? Cost/performance considerations are welcome too.
Topic by cvon buedingen
My sun visor has broken on my 2012 Chevrolet Sonic. Pretty much same as this guy, https://youtu.be/Joa_CnGxmp8. Because I'm cheap I was going to try to glue and treat it gentle instead of paying $40 for a new one. What glue would give me the best bond and any idea how (if needed) to clamp it while it sets? The plastic has ABS written on it, so I presume that refers to Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene.
Question by bp2000
I am have to determine the I-V curves for a few solar cell samples. The sun simulator that I am going to use is PASAN 3b SunSim. My Questions are: What is the optimum solar cell sample size that I need to select? What parameters will be effects if the sample size is not optimized? The specifications of the external lamp are attached to this question.
Question by raishikoh | last reply
Hi fellow instrucablers, I planted some sunflowers a while ago and recently I collected the seeds from the flowers and replanted them. The original seeds were from a packet which I threw away. I've planted the new seeds and it's been a week and the haven't sprouted, I'm not sure if I was really unlucky or if the seeds have been genetically modified in order for them not to grow new plants. I still have some seeds left over so I was wondering if there was anyway to tell if they have been modified somehow. Thanks a ton Sirnoodlehe
Question by SirNoodlehe | last reply
I'm trying to make a sun jar. I've got myself a flip-top jar. the garden light is still pending. but I have a problem (or do I?)- the lid is green. will the green glass still allow the solar panels to get power? or will I have to do something else?
Question by codongolev | last reply
Since I live in northern Michigan, I pretty much hang out indoors for a majority of the year due to ''Frozen Winter Hell''. It's been sunny these last couple of days, and I managed to bake my paper white skin :( The only reason I'm able to even type this question is because this burn is located exclusively on my neck. Last year my itchy sunburn covered my whole back...it was like being stung by 10,000 killer bees for 3 straight days...my agonized screams certainly disturbed the neighbors. I'm sure some of you have experienced the whole itchy sunburn madness...how have you dealt with it? Oh, and I drew a picture of the sun for inspiration:
Question by nepheron | last reply
I am building my own solar panels and installing them as I go. So far I have mounted three 70 watt panels. I have a twenty amp controller and a 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter. With the array switched on and connected to the batteries (8 x12 volt 134AH) via the controller everything seems fine with a steady 13 -14 volt charge coming through. But when I connect the inverter the PV volts drop to around six and seven volts....The batteries are wired in parrale but not directly to each other. Instead I connected them to a buss bar hoping for equel drain and charge... I then connected the wires from controller and inverter to the bars... I thought this may have been the problem so swapped them all around having the controller wires to the battteries, then the inverter directly to the batteries... It made no difference and the voltages remained the same....I am hoping now that the reason maybe that I do not have enough panels to power the system and as I add more panels the voltage will rise...... l Any thoughts on this will be very welcome.....?
Question by SolarPoweredGardener | last reply
With the upside down tomatoes in bucket, does it need to be in full sun ? Wanted to hang buckets on porch, it would get the morning sun only.
Question by pattycake051160 | last reply
Maybe with a tarp, PVC pipe, and some kind of twine/nylon cord? looking to pick up the materials while on a budget vacation in Florida (staying with family) at the end of May. Not sure if this will be something I can/will bring on the plane back home. don't want to cause problems with airport security or have to check a bag. Really want to avoid being crispy fried. ideas please?
Question by tdyts2 | last reply
I bought an 8 watt solar panel. Now what? what kind of cords do I buy? how do I use the sun to charge a small battery?
Question | last reply
Alright How do make plasma? like the kind thats on the sun. I here you can make plasma by puting so much electricity into the gas. How much is that and how can I produce that number?
Question by Kalrag | last reply
So while browsing Instructables, most times I see quite a few Instructables for the sun jars. While on Think Geek today, I saw the Firefly Dreamlights Jar. I was just wondering if someone wanted to take a crack at making it so that I can make one myself (im not that great with figuring out circuits on my own). http://www.thinkgeek.com/homeoffice/lights/e7a6/ Thanks!
Topic by BigDrig | last reply