can super caps be used with rotating magnet to form generator?

Rotate cylindrical magnetic bar over circular super cap as it's or short her 2 internal plate (hopefully if we can) to act like one flat ribbon coil nano wire made of carbon instead of copper. nano tech also should be implemented in small medium even large motor/generator and I think it would yield generator with high efficiency low weight and size with minimized edde current and inertia. NOTE ultra caps does not sold in our local electronic store here in damascus syria , if it was i would bought it's and experiment making generator using magnet and super caps and post the result thank you all for your time reading my question :)

Question by infoseek   |  last reply


Is it possible to salvage "Super/Ultra-Capacitors" from electronic devices?

I was just wondering if someone has ever salvaged a super/ultra-capacitor from some kind of electronic device? I it possible to even salvage these from something?

Question by Yonatan24   |  last reply


Saftey issues

Hello, I have been thinking about a project for a long long time, using 2 huge super capacitors with usb devices, such as an ipod. I am currently thinking of using 2 these: Link to 350 maxwell ultra capsLink to 350 maxwell ultra capsBut my real concern is safety. These capacitors can produce loads of amps at 5v, and that alarms me. Are my concerns real, if so, is there any safety precautions that one could take?

Topic by penguins   |  last reply


The rite resistor to charge this super capacitor.

    Hello I was wondering what resistor you guys would recomend for use in a capacitor charging circut. I can follow common sense for a small 160uf 300v photo capacitor. But this cap has a rating of 3,700uf and 600v. And considering its in issue, (which I believe it may be,) assume your giving it 18v of power from let's say... a drill battery.                                                      Thank you.

Topic by darthDIY   |  last reply


where to find/recycle supercapacitors?

Been wondering just in what and where do they use super caps? i recycle any an all where i can and thought sum ofs ya could give me a clue as to where would a good source?i have coffee cans full of reg caps taken outta pcs an such but as far as i can tell i've never happened upon any super caps in anything yet.any info would help! thank you.

Topic by ripit   |  last reply


If I have wind none stop can I use 100f caps instead of SLA in between my load? Answered

People with petal generator seems to able to use Caps somereason instead of SLAs, is it possible for a wind gen to do the same? use 10f caps as a buffer between loads.. also can I use AA battery bank to power an inverter (300ma 12v)

Question by celalboz   |  last reply


Charging BoostCaps

I recently got a few of the 3000 farad 2.7 boost caps from electronic goldmine.  I have a quick question about charging them.  Applying a higher than rated voltage before the capacitor is charged all the way would be fine, right?  The voltage drop should cause the source voltage to approach 0, thusly below the 2.7 volt rating.  As an extreme example, lets say you simply hooked up a 9 volt battery to it.  Since the battery can only supply like 200mA, the voltage drops to nearly 0 as the capacitor appears to be a dead short.  The dielectric (or ion exchange or napheon membrane or whatever it is in a ultracap, lol) should be fine, correct? My main goal is to later hook up one or two of these for a regenerative brake system of something like a small gokart or bike or something.  Stopping at 30mph is like (assuming 200kg total mass) 20k joules, and each one can hold about 10k joules, and assuming a max efficiency of like 30 or 40% (I think itd be much lower, though), these capacitors could brake a gokart going fairly several times without having to be discharged inbetween cycled (but of course they would be).  For braking, could these essentially be hooked up directly (of course with pwm, and other things, but in essence:) to the motor with a little protection circuitry to prevent overcharging the capacitors?  Or would the higher voltage instantly puncture and destroy the boostcap?

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


hey guys i m particpatin in a solar boat race competeion nn desprately need ur help. heres d link for competion rules

Heres d link for competion rules :   http://redirectingat.com/?id=487X782&url;=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.techfest.org%2Fcompetitions%2Ftorque%2Fsolarsplash%2F i dnt hv n e practical experience with solar engines. i bought my self a 4700 micro farad cap and trying to build with it. can any one tell me how can i increase the tripping voltage for ic 1381 .. i have 1381 c   and its trpping voltage is very low 2 volts .. how can super capacitor help me ?

Question by mihir08   |  last reply


Electric Go Kart with Graphene supercapacitor. Random Questions on electronics, control, and possible problems.

I have a project in mind that i am trying to start on and it all has to be done as cheap as possible (ACAP). The project idea is that after my graphene in finished and I make the capacitors I will construct the battery and group the many cells in series and parallels until I have either 36 or 48 volts and a lot of amp-hours or at least enough to drive the kart with unrestricted speed for AT LEAST 10-15 minutes. The big question I have is whether i can treat these, essentially fast charging batteries, as batteries or if I must use different methods to control power and connect to the motor.  Then I also don't know how exactly i am going to control the motor or even what type of motor to use and where to obtain it. I was thinking i could use some industrial PMDC motor and I would like to control it using a PWM and use a plate that a contact touches that would slide up and down the plate to make the contact closer and farther away from the end on which a cable would be attached so it varies the amount of resistance to make a potentiometer. The closed throttle would just be a button that the pedal pushes to disconnect the power to the potentiometer at another point in the wiring. If that actually works then how would I make or where would I buy something that could actually use that and be able to handle thousands of watts (like 10,000W @36-48volts minimum).  My other throttle idea was that i could just have the pedal activate multiple solenoids so that there is like 5 stages of power activated by the solenoids. I have heard that problems with this is that when the first battery runs out you have to charge it otherwise it will be destroyed, though i am not sure if this will affect the graphene supercapacitors. If anyone know anything about graphene in applications please let me know because that would be way easier. The last thing is that since the graphene will be made on disks by laser scribing them could i just make the cells the shape of CD disks and then put the in one of those disk holders and then wire those to each other in series until i have the desired voltage and then in parallels until I run out??? If anyone has made graphene cells and used them please tell me where u obtained the Graphene oxide and how you made the graphene and cells and etc.

Question by hopekiller30   |  last reply


Help with MAX232 Serial Converter troubleshooting?

Ok..long story short.. built this Instructable: (minimal Arduino on poerfboard,.  w/ blank Atmel) I put this on a breaboard instead https://www.instructables.com/id/Perfboard-Hackduino-Arduino-compatible-circuit/ I then installed Arduino IDE, as well as WinAVR/avrdude I tried to build a parallel programmer: http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ParallelProgrammer but it didnt work.. (not sure if it because of WinAVR?avrdue setting?  but command line AND flashing bootloader through Arduino IDE did NOT WORK.. AVRDUDE gives this response: avrdude: can't open device "giveio" avrdude: failed to open parallel port "lpt1" pinout for parallel programm was as follows: PP     ATMEL  (pinout) 1    -  19 2    -  17 11  -  18 16  -  1 18  -  GND on breadboard*** no clue even Ive asked and googled.. couldnt find a 'real' solution to this.. so I looked around..and I found a couple MAX232 chips laying around..figured Id use these to build a Serial Converter using this tut: http://sodoityourself.com/max232-serial-level-converter/ I this all set-up on my breadboard: (pics to check what Im doing wrong) *******(the images shows the vRegulator moved over 1 pin..it has been corrected but after pic was taken) http://dmstudios.net/misc/max232_circuit/top.jpg http://dmstudios.net/misc/max232_circuit/1.jpg http://dmstudios.net/misc/max232_circuit/2.jpg I have checked the vRegulator portion..  I have a cap BEFORE the regulator  *bridging GND & output* and I use my meter to check that there is, in fact, 5v coming from it..  and there is... HOWEVER...  the vRegulator gets SUPER HOT, SUPER FAST!... if I dis-connect the pin 16 form the  chip to the ++ then the vRegulator does NOT get hot... once I bridge it.. instant HEAT.. so is it something I have done wrong in my diagram? http://dmstudios.net/misc/max232_circuit/diagram_1.jpg vRegulator not show in diagram here;; in this diagram.. as soon as I hook up the V++ to pin16 on the chip.. and the cap..etc  something is wrong?? I 'do' have some FTDI cables coming from China for a few bucks.. but this is ONLY for sketch uploading...correct? I also have a true Arduino Due coming as well... but hate waiting weeks when I want to play and get started now! Any help is appreciated..   Im new to all this, so be nice!  LOL thanks gang!

Topic by xl97 


Need help with guitar ground wiring! Answered

 Earlier this year I bought a super cheap Squier Affinity Telecaster. A couple weeks ago I opened it up to change a tone cap. Every thing seemed fine, all the pickups worked the tone control worked the switch worked and the volume control worked but I noticed that there was quite a bit more buzz and it would stop whenever I touched anything metal on the guitar. Ground problem right? Anyway, I thought I had accidentally snapped the bridge ground wire or the main ground wire (the only ground wires that weren't 7 strand). So I ordered some 7 strand luxe cloth wire and replaced both of the ground wires. I tried the guitar again, the buzz was quieter but was still there and it reacted the same way as it had before when I touched it. The buzz stops when I touch the bridge, anything in contact with the bridge (i.e. strings), and the control plate. The buzz is very faint and the reaction to me touching the guitar is even more faint.   My soldering skills are pretty poor. I think it's likely that my solder joints are the problem but I would also like to know if there are any other possible causes because since the first time I have redone the solder joints a number of times.  If my soldering is the problem what is the best solution to the problem other than connecting myself to the guitar via wire every time I play? And what is the best way to improve my soldering skills for future projects or even this project? Thanks, Adam

Question by adamgillies   |  last reply


Help needed with flashing brake light microcontroller

Hi All New here and hope you can help me out. I am a biker in south africa and would like to put together an aditional brake light that flashed 4 times then go solid. Microcontroller will most likely be the easiest and have design one as follows. (the coding has been done) LED's to be used is 20mA at 2.2V My concern is that for the amount of LED"S (100) i want to use 1amp is not enough and therefore i am using a LM7810 to drop the voltage from 12V to 5V with a cap to increase the 1A output to 5A I wish to wire the LED's in parralel si if one pop's then it wont affect the rest of the LED's. Must i therefore still wire a resistor in front of every LED? (180ohm?) or can i wire in this LED before the LED matrix to give it a 2.2-2.3V throughout the LED matrix? Here is my design : http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/design_zps52f754cf.png 2nd EDIT : How about this? reworked the design a bit? Then i drop the 12v down to 2.5V needed for the LED's and no resistors needed? I also opped for the LM350 due to the higher amps it can handle http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/Untitled_zpsc9900901.png 3rd update: Now using super bright LED's with a rating of 2V and therfore will use row of 6 in series to give 12V...still need resistors when connecting the 6 banks of 6 LED each in parralel? http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg156/HannesNel/Untitled_zps684a2209.png

Question by HannesN   |  last reply


Is reverse engineering illegal?

Is reverse engineering illegal? Well, if you then go on to sell your version? For example, in an upcoming instructable I'm modding some electronics, well, without revealing my instructable here's an equivilent example: Lets say I buy a little robot at the store, it has motors and the case and everything. Only problem is, it runs on AA's and you want rechargable batteries. Also, the wireless module for some reason is external and is super ugly and annoying. You crack open everything and you find that the needlessly large circuitboards only have about 20 (somewhat) easy to find components that adds up to like 2 dollars. Following traces, you recreate a schematic from the PCB (already did this, that was fuuunnn :P). Now you reengineer the board (still same schematic) so that it's much more compact, you've added a little charging circuit (and correspond boost circuit, replacing a couple of AA's with a lithium ion), and you made it all fit inside the robot (no wireless module just hanging around outside the robot. Now, essentially the schematic is the same, but you've added stuff like the boost circuit and charging circuit. You've also added a few customizing features that make it more special (adding LEDs, microcontroller, cough cough etc.). Would it be illegal to sell a board/kit (incase other people want the board and can't solder smd to good) for people to modify there own robot (same model etc.). Also, the schematic from the reverse engineering is very similar to an example circuit in the main chip's datasheet, and a few other parts are common sense (like some resistors here and there, LEDs, a few extra filtering caps), so the company's circuit is nearly identical to the datasheet, is this illegal to sell?

Topic by guyfrom7up   |  last reply


A Maker's Musician!

I'm not hugely into music, but I have just come across Seasick Steve (after an appearance on Top Gear!). The CD of I started Out With Nothing and I Still Got Most of it Left arrived in the mail this morning, and is now playing on my Zen, filed next to Walter Trout. I am gobsmacked. This man has been playing this stuff all my life, and I only just find out?  That's forty years of enjoyment I have missed out on! Not only is he, frankly, amazing, but he'd fit right in here, because he makes and modifies his own instruments : From wikipedia: As well as an electric guitar and self electrified acoustic guitar, Wold owns (and plays) several obscure and personalised instruments, including: The Three-String Trance Wonder - This is a normal guitar that resembles a Fender Coronado, but with only three strings. It has an old Harmony pickup added (with duct tape) and is tuned to G, G and B using an E string in the A position, a D in the G position and a G in the B position. At his gigs, he often tells the story that he bought it for $75 in this condition in Como, Mississippi from a man named Sherman, who later told him he only paid $25 for it the day before. Wold vowed never to add another string, and that he would tour the world telling his story of how Sherman ripped him off. All in good fun as Sherman Cooper is a good buddy, who gave him the guitar having had it nailed to the wall as a decoration. A lot of the time he also adds (while picking up or putting away the guitar) that it is the "...biggest piece of [poo] in the world, I swear". The One-Stringed Diddley Bow - This is a one stringed string instrument played with a slide (He uses an old screwdriver for this purpose). It consists of a 2 foot long 2x4, with a semi-loose piece of broom wire nailed to it at both ends. It was made especially for him by James 'Super Chikan' Johnson. The 'MDM' (Mississippi Drum Machine) - A small wooden box that is stomped upon, providing percussion. It is decorated with a Mississippi motorcycle license plate ("MC33583"), and a small piece of carpet. Roland Cube Amplifier - Placed on a chair to his left and set to the 'tweed' setting. The Morris Minor Guitar - When on the TV show Top Gear, presenter Jeremy Clarkson commented that Steve's car history of over 100 cars included a Morris Minor. Steve then produced a 4-string guitar that his friend had made out of two old hub caps from the Minor joined back-to-back, playing it a little in the episode. Why are still reading this?  Go, listen to it.  Now.

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


My Grand Tournament Entry TDAP (new* Official TDAP)

Alright for lack of a better name for now this is just TheDunkis' Assault Pistol. It's a compact pistol made specifically for war. I did make a video but I can't upload it using my mom's computer so...yeah. Anyways they're three things that make this the almost ideal war weapon.1. It's compact. Usually no wider than the average person at the age of...I don't know I'm skinny so probably a 12 year old lol so it should be easy enough to carry around as a secondary weapon.2. High Cap magazine. It holds I think around 25 green rods. I know green rods aren't the best rounds but typical wars happen in homes where distance doesn't count as much and for bigger battles it would be more of a secondary weapon.3. Removable magazine. It's based off of Zak's from KI. It clips in and out really easily but it's really sturdy so it should never fall out even if you're shaking it around.Alright so as I figured the gun wasn't enough to make it through. I still wanted my own assault pistol that works though (I'm hoping that we shift over from side arms to these as they'll be easier to make original). This is based off of the original in some design like the handle. It uses what I believe to be the first slanted and open magazine for blue rods. Why slanted? Simple three reasons. 1. It looks kind of cool. 2. It acts as a hand guard. 3. It's keeps it compact so it's not sticking out but it also feeds ammo towards the front more so that it gets more power. That's the main reason anyways. I have plans for this gun if I keep it around anyways. This is the simplest design with no special details or anything but I'm hoping to make a smaller and larger version with extra features. For example the larger will most likely shoot yellows possibly with a removable magazine and a stock. The smaller will use white rods maybe with a slide and maybe with the magazine in the handle (although with a similar open mag style. I figured it out I just need to figure out how to connect them).Here's what I rate this new version compared to the old one. *newer version1. Size Efficient. 4/5 It's compact but not as small as it can be. *4/5 It's pretty much as compact as it will get but you could make it ultimately smaller.2. Power and Range efficiency. 3/5 At the moment it's about average but I havn't really perfected the firing system. Sometimes it doesn't even fire well at all so I have some work to do. * 4/5 It's a whole lot better now. It's decently powerful for its size but obviously not a sniper or anything.3. Accuracy. 3/5 I haven't honestly tested it a lot yet only enough to know that it fires but by the time I'm done hopefully this should updated to be a 4 even though it's more of a CQC gun. * 4/5 I tested it a couple of times and it hits very close with the sight I'm using. Still not perfect.4. Easy, fast loading. 5/5 With removable magazine that is super easy to put in and pull out this is one of those "as good as it gets" in the fast loading department. * 3/5 Ugh this is where it fails. The good news is that it's still pretty to load. All you need to do is push blue rods through the barrel. No need to be precocked nor do you need to hold the pusher down just push the blue rods in and down. Should hold about 10 blue rods maybe more.5. Handling. 4/5 pretty standard I guess. The handle ain't bad and the trigger is smooth enough. So far the gun doesn't work the way it should but that will be fixed before I'm done obviously. The magazine area makes for a good forehandle when not using the shroud. * 4/5 Still pretty standard expect I traded around a couple things. The angled magazine does not make for a good foregrip. It works but I don't care for it. The handle is the same but the back was changed to be a little more comfortable. The trigger works better.6. Cocking. 3/5 Not super bad and not super good. I'm not sure if I should put a slide on or not. * 3/5 same old same old.7. Looks. This is another one of those love it or hate it things but I think it looks good all but the support on the bottom which I put on for more of function than looks but I do think the gun looks better with it. * I'm not sure which I like better. I struggled with the looks on this one for awhile and tried adding a lot of pieces. I finally ended up getting rid of pieces instead until I finally got what I wanted. I think this version looks better good.8. Reliability 2/5 So far I'm not going to lie the gun isn't the best but like I said it ain't working right by the time I'm done I'll make sure it's working 99.9% 5/5 The only problem so far is that sometimes two shots try to go at once and they just fall out from the friction. It only happens if you don't load the ammo right. Edit: Fixed updated design doesn't jam anymore.9. Other features. +1 (judged on about how good the extra features are. Anything that doesn't fit above will be included in the score which will add the amount of points as a bonus into the final score) It has a simple rail nothing to special and a simple mock silencer shroud for the barrel with a forehandle. I think it makes it look better but bigger. * +1 this version doesn't have anything super special. The best is the open magazine which I figure deserves a +1 on it's own considering how useful they are.God any other ideas for my newer gun? I'll probably want to post but I also want to work on a Master Sword V2 really soon and I need all my pieces for it. I might go out and buy another bucket soon but if I don't then this might go by by. I'll try getting a video as soon as I find what I need for the camera>computer hook up for videos. How do you think it would compare to the BBKWG and Spiff (along with the other APs those are just the most popular)?

Topic by TheDunkis   |  last reply


TechShop Menlo Park Open House -- Saturday May 31, 2008 10 AM to 5 PM

Jim Newton at TechShop wants to let you and the other people in the SF bay area maker community know that they're having an Open House at TechShop Menlo Park on Saturday, May 31st from 10 AM to 5 PM, and everyone is invited.NEW TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTYou'll be able to check out all the tools, machines and workspace and see how TechShop can help you build all those projects you've always wanted to make. They have a bunch of new tools, including the brand-new 45-watt Epilog Helix laser cutter with 18 x 24 bed and a rotary attachment for etching bottles and cylindrical objects (now they have two of these Epilog Helix 45 Laser Cutters), 4 brand new computers packed full of 2D and 3D design software including SolidWorks (CAD), a plastics vacuum forming station, and a super easy-to-use computer-controlled ShopBot CNC router that can cut out and carve any piece of plywood or solid wood or plastic up to 4 x 8 feet!BRING YOUR PROJECTSPlease feel free to bring your projects to the Open House to show off...completed or not. It will be fun for everyone to see what you're been working on.THE DETAILS o TechShop Open House, Saturday, May 31, 2008, 10 AM to 5 PM o TechShop, 120 Independence Dr, Menlo Park, CA 94025 (Near Marsh Road and 101) o Guided Tours Will Be Given Throughout the Day o BBQ and Pot Luck -- Please Bring Your Favorite Main Dish, Side Dish or Dessert o Tell Your Family and Friends, and Bring Them With You o Kids Are Welcome Too! o Lots of Parking, All Free o No Need to RSVP...Just Come On By!Event details are available on the TechShop Events Page TechShop Events Page.SECURE YOUR TECHSHOP MEMBERSHIP SLOT WHILE YOU STILL CANTechShop 1-month, 6-month, and 1-Year memberships are available. May 31st -- the day of the TechShop Open House -- is the very last day to take advantage of our special membership pricing...membership prices will go up on June 1st. With over 160 memberships sold in just the last 3 weeks, we are quickly approaching our membership cap of 500 members. Buy your membership online right now or at the Open House...save money, and make sure you reserve your membership slot and don't end up on the waiting list!We all look forward to seeing you at the Open House on May 31st! TechShop120 Independence DrMenlo Park, CA 94025(800) 640-1975[mailto:info@techshop.ws info@techshop.ws]http://www.techshop.ws/

Topic by TechShopJim