PSP Fix, Need Help

Hello all! I recently aquired a broken PSP 1000 as sort of a challenge to myself. Now however, I actually want it to work. I need some help with the fix, so here are the problems I have been able to identify: -PSP won't always charge, I strongly believe it is the battery though. When I tilt the PSP around at different angles, it will charge. Also, fiddling with the battery makes it charge. -PSP won't tun on. I have checked the power fuse, and it was burned out. I placed a jumper across it like so many internet guides say, and it now has continuity. When I hold the power switch, the PSP will do one of two things:                                  1. The light will turn off, and then turn back to solid orange (charging)                                  2. The light will turn green for about 0.5 to 1 second, and then turn off -PSP will make a rythmic clicking when not charging, doesn't seem to be a problem though. -Battery is cracked, and I don't know if it works properly because it won't maintain proper contact with the PSP. I have also checked the backlight and USB fuses, they both have continuity  so I'm not worried about fixing them. Right now I would just like it to turn on. If anyone knows anything, please make a comment, perhaps someone else has this problem. P.S.  What is a pandora battery? I keep hearing about those, what do they do? Also, what exactly signifies a "bricked" PSP? Thanks UPDATE: 11/08/2009 I had a friend test the battery, he said the battery works and he charged it for me.  Now the PSP turns on. But, (there's always a but) there is no activity on the LCD. I tried bridging the backlight fuse with tweezers to see if the fuse was the problem, no luck. So what now? All I have learned is that the charge circuit doesn't work and that the PSP turns on with no activity. I held a white LED flashlight up to the screen, but I didn't see anything. any suggestions?

Topic by gimmelotsarobots   |  last reply


Fix tv that randomly turns on and off?

I have a hisnese 20-ish inch tv that is about 6 years old. It started having a problem about a year and a half ago where it randomly turned itself on and changed channels on its own. I opened it up and dusted it out (not much dust) and messed with the settings a bit and vola it worked. Well, then a few months ago it started up again. I dusted it out (not really anything) and it still had the problems. Then I just unplugged it and let it sit for a month. I tried it out and it worked fine for the past two months or so. Well, it started having the problems again and I dusted it out (really nothing) and it had no effect. Anyone know what I should do other than pay someone to fix it?

Question by TOCO   |  last reply


my psp won't turn on or charge can anyone help?

I have a plsp 3000 slim that refuses to charge or turn on with battery in or out and plugged into ac adapter or usb. The battery is original and the charger is original. when i try to turn on or charge the green/ orange power light doesnt burn at all. i have called sony and they say it will have to be sent in, i don't want to pay alot to get it fixed so if any of you could help me out as to how i could fix it or what might be wrong with it i would be really grateful

Question by pbman123   |  last reply


how would I fix my broken psp? Answered

I recently bid on a psp on ebay for $26. they said that they plugged it in to the usb port on their computer and it stopped working. it won't turn on, etc. I was wondering if there were any other options other than a pandora's battery that I could try. thanks!ps- here's the auction- http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item;=290324278022

Question by codongolev   |  last reply


Compaq Presario v2000 Laptop Doesn't Turn On?

Hi y'all! I need a little help. I'm trying to fix my uncle's laptop. It is a Compaq Presario v2000 Laptop. It will not turn on or show any lights on the front(e.g charging, power up, ect.). I have tried blowing out the motherboard, removing and inserting the battery, and testing the DC power jack with a voltmeter. Any help will be appreciated! 

Question by joespicnictables   |  last reply


Camera not turning on, how can I find the problem?

A friend of mine dropped her Nikon Coolpix point and shoot, which broke caused a lens error. She handed me a ziplock bag with it disassembled and half the screws stripped and asked me to fix it, since her warranty ran out. I found and fixed what was causing the lens error, but the camera won't turn on. I didn't think to check if it powered up before I started, but I'd like to fix it if at all possible. I didn't do anything that would obviously cause this problem - I used an anti-static strap, was careful with the parts I took out, and all my work was on the lens part of the camera. The battery is charged - I have the same camera and it works in mine. I tried plugging it into a computer, no luck. What might be some possible causes, and how can I test for them? 

Question by applesnacks   |  last reply


Putting in the battery in order for my camera to turn on?

Okay so my digitial camera has been messed for a while... ever since last year's 4th of july, water damaged because of rain that came out of no where, the only way my camera can turn on or off is too take out the battery and put it back in... it automacticly turns on after i put it in which for me is fine but of course it can be annoying to always have to do that,, so my question is... even after a year since its been damaged by water... is there a way it can be fixed so i dont have to put a battery in and out inorder to power it on and off??

Question by saiyankev   |  last reply


leaf blower runs starts and stops fine butt once turned off it wont go on for a hour

i think it is a model defect because my friend has one with the same problem butt i still want to fix it

Question by mclovin7596   |  last reply


Soldering Iron tip is turning black and will not take a tinning ?

I have a brand new soldering iron and tips. I turned the iron on and waited for it to heat up, and immediately the tip turned black. I was told to clean it with a WET sponge and re-tin it. I did. or tried to, but it keeps turning black. I bought that tip-tinning stuff in the little tin and tried using that, but the tip still is black. It's as if the black tip will not accept the tin now...and it is brand new, although it sat in a box and a zip lock baggy for two years before I am working with it now. I tried to clean the tip by wiping it on a brass wire sponge thingy and then on the WET sponge. The tip looks like it would start to get shinny silver again but only in small places not the whole tip that should be all shiny silver. But then the whole tip just turns black immediately again even before I get to do any soldering at all. I tried to re-tin my other tip that did the same thing when I first tried to use this iron ( about 2 weeks ago) and the solder melted fast, but it just sort of built up on that tip like a big glob on the top of the tip. This soldering iron and solder I am using is for stained glass jewelry making not for electronics or plumbing. I am using all the correct materials for the job and have followed all directions and what I was told to try do, to fix it by the seller I bought it from, so I think I am doing everything right (?). I am using a lead free solder that is used for stained glass soldering jewelry. I am using the copper foil "tape" and copper metal and wire. But I can't get very far since this iron is giving me such problems. Am I doing something wrong or do you think the soldering iron is faulty? This iron is an Inland brand soldering iron. Can anyone out there please help me fix this? Or do I have to buy a new iron. I have so much work to do but can not do anything now until my iron will work properly. Help!!??? Oh another question I saw an Indestructible on how to make my own soldering iron tips from 6 awg copper wire...would this work for the job I need to do ? Because if it is the tips that are the problem I could make my own tips with pure copper but the all the irons I read about that are good always are made of a layer of iron and not just pure copper...will the self-made copper tips stick to my project or the solder since I am working with pure copper sheet and wire and I am using a lead free solder made up of Tin and Silver and one made of Tin and Copper. Its a bright shinny silver color since I want the silver look in the end... not the copper look in my hand made jewelry and sculptures I'm making. 

Question by donnadidit   |  last reply


Comments aren't showing for everyone

There's a problem with comments, I wrote some in this instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/Led-Cube-8x8x8/ but it turns out only I can see them, if I log out of my account or other people try to read them, they don't show up. Here's some pictures: What I see: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9607723/what_i_see.jpg What other see: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9607723/what_others_see.jpg I hope someone can fix this. Cheers!

Topic by juteda   |  last reply


i was repairing a home amplifier when it "unrepaired" itself. help?

I found a samsung mm-c430 home amplifier the other day, and decided to take a stab at fixing it. i replaced a few burnt out parts and tried it out. nothing. then, while using my multimeter to check things, i noticed the main transformer wasnt putting out any voltages. this lead to more probing around a mosfet when suddenly the VFD lit up and the device appreared operational. my multimeter had shorted out two contacts and that led to the system starting up the way it should, rather than just turning on the LEDs. i turned off the device and turned it back on, and just the LEDs lit up. then i went back with my multimeter to the same spot and t started again! so i went and soldered two wires and a load (resistor) and went back to try again. the resistor burned, and the device did not power up properly. i tried again with my multimeter and nothing. i removed the wires and tried again, and still nothing. now im really confused with whats going on here. can anyone help? attached a photo. it was taken before any repairs were done, but the two points are labeled. the chip is a pwm controller, and the pin labeled is VCC

Question by zack247   |  last reply


I want to build a push cart with x4 bicycle tyres?

I want to use bicycle wheels with the turn function of two at the back where I would steer and push from. I have no idea how to make this,just have the idea in my head, that it would be just what I need,I picture x2 tyres with the forks at the back with a wide kinda T-handle to steer left or right,other x2 fixed at the front.My main thing I guess would be the axle strength or protection from rugged bush terrain and how or what frame would suit best for what I want.But if I have plans or a tutorial video I'm sure I can.Must be light weight but able to carry 150kg , not wider than 900mm including tyres,if longer than 2metres then is it possble to have it come apart in two pieces?I don't have welding options,where I should weld I plan on drill and nuts+bolts . I've searched all over the internet for 3 days or 5 hrs a day with no luck what so ever. Hope someone can help!

Question by jess.zimmermann.9   |  last reply


How to program the XS3868 bluetooth audio module through arduino?

Hello, I have a few of these xs3868 bluetooth audio modules that I used in some speaker systems I built for myself, but now one of my friends wants me to build him a custom speaker with a custom bluetooth device name and passcode. So I thought, ok, I read a little about programming with the AT commands but never tried it before, so I hooked up a board to 3.3 and gnd of the arduino like I usually do to check before soldering everything, my phone connected with no problem. So next I turned off my phone's bluetooth so it wouldn't mess with the chip while programming it and connected the rx and tx pins of the board to tx and rx respectively. I also made the following adjustments in the arduino serial interface that I remember reading somewhere: No Line Ending, and 9600 baud rate. Plugged in in to the tx and rx of the arduino board with at mega chip removed and had no luck getting any response from the chip, I switched baud rate to all of the different baud rates available with no success, the only effect the chip has on the serial interface is that when the power cord slipped and I plugged in back in with rx, tx and the usb cable still connected it output a few seemingly random characters while (I'm assuming) the chip was booting up, at 115200 baud rate the characters were a "u" with two dots over it and a combination lowercase "b" and "p" (for some reason I can't copy/paste it). It only outputs these characters when one of the power wires is reconnected after being disconnected (I have a bunch of these so if I fry one it's no big deal). I tried connecting my phone again after a while and it worked, checked the wires with my multimeter and both are connected and neither is shorted to any other pins and switching rx/tx does nothing to fix the problem either. I have a usb to serial coming in the mail soon hopefully but my friend was hoping this could be finished sooner than it would arrive so any help would be greatly appreciated. Edit: Is it possible that the module could have a rs232 interface, rather than a ttl interface? I've heard that arduino only uses ttl and that I'd need another adapter to get to rs232 since my computer doesn't have that kind of serial interface.

Question by LazyH   |  last reply


a Blucky corpse

stage 1 ok, so i have begun.the Blucky i chose to work on is a bargain basement Blucky, literally. when i made the trek to the Spirit Store and Party City last October, i happened upon some marked down Bluckies. they were 10 bucks, and not guaranteed to not fall apart in the store, lol. so i got a buggy and picked up a couple of them. the cashier pointed out that they were defective, did i still want them? of course i did! 10 bucks instead of 12, for something that i'm going to probably screw up anyway...so the 1st order of business is to fix the defective joints. i decided to disassemble it, and fill the bones with spray foam insulation. then re-assemble. hoping this will meld the pieces together well, and add a little weight. nothing looks faker than a Blucky blowing in the wind!it is laid out on the counter at the shop. the customers kept giving me strange looks.. can't imagine why! so i figure the excess that is oozing out can easily be trimmed away. i do have a back-up plan in case the spray foam won't hold firmly enough. it involves hot glue. hopefully it won't come to that though... the panty hose i plan on applying next should bind things well.STAGE2so today i began stage 2 of the Blucky. cutting his arm and leg bones to more closely resemble an actual body. i used my Dremel, and a razor knife to trim them up. i made a HUGE mess, and had fun. i'm sure i didn't do such a great job on this, but it is my 1st time. STAGE3so today i tackled stage 3 of teh Blucky corpsefication, carving the skull and ribs.ummm. it is MUCH harder to do the ribs than the skull, let me tell you! the dremel tends to 'get away from you' on the long curves of teh ribs. my carpal tunnel didn't help matters any, either! it's kinda crappy looking in fact... i am rather disappointed with myself. luckily they wont all be visible after the pantyhose goes on! the teeth proved to be difficult too. Danny said it looked fine, though. i do have some pics somewhere...we went to Lowe's last night and got some carpet latex to coat it with. the girl in the flooring department thought we were crazy at first, then warmed up and was interested in our projects and plans. she wants us to bring some pics by in fact!here are some of the how-to's i'm using as inspiration:http://hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=8659http://www.fulcrumsites.com/haunt/html/corpsification1.htmlhttp://skullandbone.com/tutorial_02.htmiam kinda mixing and matching techniques. i'll be using paper towels or toilet paper, pantyhose, cotton balls, great foam, maybe cheesecloth and various colors of stains/paints.the hair my Blucky will have is Grade A. i had my long hair cut off, and instead of donating it this time, i plan to utilize it. the hair dresser kept asking me if i was sure i wanted her to cut it, she said it was "beautiful and so healthy!" i imagine i'll have to distress it little so it will look like it belongs on a rotted corpse. LOL!!!!i'm wondering... does anyone ever put remnants of rotten clothing onto their Bluckies they corpsefy?STAGES 4 & 5ok. so i worked on Blucky today at work. first i taped up the arm and leg bones that i had cut out with the dremel. this is probably a useless step... but i think i was trying to stall actually getting going with the scary part- the latex.i used some masking tape i bought at wal mart in the paint department. then i applied the pantyhose. this part caused customers to stop what they were doing and come watch. Josh and I struggled with it until we got 1 set on the right way, and one set on upside down, covering the arms and head. we overlapped the torso with both sets.now came the scariest part. donning the gloves and applying the latex. it stinks! i put down a couple of trash bags and dove in... globbing and smearing until it was covered. i had to warn customers away from it, so Blucky wouldn't stick to them! one guy nearly bumped into it, just walking by. maybe i should have done this step in the back room, away from people. i hope he turns out ok... hair, stain and paint are the next steps, when he dries out. STAGE 6so i stained Blucky. i think i got a lil heavy handed with the stain... but he is my 1st ever, so it's all good! i bought MinWax mahogany gel stain and a large pack of cheap brushes (getting my Lowes connection price of course- dented can)i placed Blucky's feet into a large box. having stained my kitchen cabinets once, i expected a HUGE mess... but the gel is marvelous! NO DRIPS AT ALL!i did get a little splattered onto my left hand and forearm, but that is because i'm a slob, LOL.several customers wandered over to watch, and inquire about him... several seemed genuinely interested in our Halloween obsession! a couple of kids who were there were thrilled, and assured me he looked totally gross! only 1 customer questioned why we were working on Halloween in February. this is a far cry from last year when i was detailing the tombstones at the shop and had people looking at me as if i were crazy... maybe i'm rubbing off on them, or maybe they are used to my eccentrics by now, LOL!Josh and i left the shop at 6, and Danny stayed over a few minutes, (he's painting truck parts in the back room) he said when he walked back through the empty, half-lighted, locked shop he caught Blucky out of teh corner of his eye and it spooked him! a sure sign of a job well done! anyway, i suppose Stage 7 for Blucky will be eyes... or LED's. definitely an LED in the chest cavity. this will be up to Danny, as i don't do wiring (yet, lol) so the ball is in his court!my motto? the couple who haunts together, stays together!

Topic by susanfromhauntspace   |  last reply


"Sonic" drilling or cutting

If we look up sonic drills today we usually get some fancy machines driving pipes in the ground, preferably softer ground.But the term includes all types of machines that use sonic vibrations to advance through a media.With the ancient and claimed to have never existed technologies in mind I did some digging...In the food industry vibrating knifes are quite common, same for "air knifes" on softer food.Even in the meat industry they find more and more uses now.Ultrasonic cutting or welding is the same thing and included in "sonic".Same for some experimental sub sonic drilling methods currently being tested.The general idea might be as old as using vibrating equippment to compact stuff, like concrete, bricks and so on.What you can compact by vibration you can also make "fluid" by vibration.Industrial feeder systems utilise this to the extreme by even making light and fine particles like flour move like water without causing any dusting.What all the techniques have in common that a suitable tool or tool head is used and that it is attempted to use the most suitable vibration frequency for the job.Anyone operating an ultrasonic welder knows the pain of finetuning for a new electrode or just new part to be welded.What does that tell us now that makes the understanding easier?Take a bottle of ketchup, preferably one that is still quite full.Turn it upside down and noothing comes out.Shake it a bit and you are either lucky or drowned in red.But hold it at an angle and start tapping it and the red sauce flows out easily.What it true for most newtonian fluids is in some way also true for non-newtonian fluids.Ever mixed corn starch and water to make these funny experiments with it?Hit it hard and it reacts really hard and is not sticky at all.Leave your hand resting on it and in sinks in and sticks to it.Stirring it very slowly is easy, go faster and you get stuck.You can do similar things with by using an external source for vibrations.For example a vibration speaker mounted to a smal cup of the goo.If you place sand on a sloped piece of plastic or sheet metal then at a low angle it will pile up easy and stay.Start vibrating the plate and the sand will start to flow off.Works fine with a vibration source mounted to a piece of steel bar or rod and a bucket of sand too.Trying to press it into the sand requires a lot of force, especially once you are a bit deeper.Let it vibrate properly and it slides rights down.If we can do the simple stuff as well as really complicated stuff in the industry then what about other materials?So far we use vibrations to make things move out of the way, compact things, transport them or to heat them up for welding plus some cutting applications.Considering the variety one might wonder why no one tries it for "difficult" materials.Machined surface can be found throughout ancient history.Finding "machined things" were vibrations was clearly used is a bit harder.The great walls are not a perfect example here as the views differ quite a bit on how they could have been created.But if we leave things melting them or a secret concret like recipe for creating for example granite then vibrations start to make some sense.You find some interesting videos on youtube where people use speakers, wires and rocks to confirm you can actually "machine" them by vibrations.Especially granite has some quite musical properties, big boulders as well as smaller ones produce destinct sounds when you hit them hard.Tests and measurements were made on granite and other hard rocks to check how fast sound travels in them , how it is refeclted and where the sound comes out or affects the surface the most.Lets just say every sample gave different results.Shape, density and dimensions affect not just the resonant frequency but also where and how the sound travels in the rock.What if??We can use a simple speaker, a plate and some rice to see how patterns form under various frequencies.Works with sand or other granules as well.The interesting patterns are the so called harmoncis.Here we see clear and destinct patters, sometimes with extremely fine lines and areas of softly vibrating granules.Some people say these harmonic frequencies have all special meanings and uses.We mainly used them to avoid problems.Imagine your new TV would not have a housing tested to be stable with all frequencies the speakers can produce.All of a sudden your back of the TV might start to rattle ;)Same for car engines.Harmonic vibrations are eliminated wherever possible.Otherwise they could multiply and affect other things in the engine or around it.Simply put it means we have various options to detect and measure vibrations on a surface or in a system.Back in the day every half decent backup generator had a mechanical indicator for the frequency of the supplied electricity.A set of tiny forks with the desired on painted red and several on either side of it.These forks were designed to get into harmonic and therfor quite intense vibrations at their set frequency.If the one for 50Hz looked blurry then all was good ;)The same principle god be applied on a big boulder of granite.Place the "vibration meter" at the desired spot and start moving around the vibration source on the surface until you find a spot that causes maximum response on the meter.Best thing here is that if you then place that surface area onto another peice of fixed in place granite both pieces will start to loose substance if vibrations are applied.The fine sediment forming is then usable as an indicator where to move the vibration source to continue once the effect literally wears off.Is it feasable?Well, if we trust mainstream science then the answer is no.A huge amount of vibration energy would be required for such a hard material, despite ancient proof that says otherwise.Semi industrial test also seemed to confirm the theory as only with very high amplitudes (loudness) and while automatically adjusting for the resonant frequency changes a measurable amount of material was removed.I struggle a bit with that as for the testing tool heads made from hardened steel or carbide were used.And that with little or no regards on how the head and tool itself affects the output.I mean in terms of having the max possible movement happening right t the tool contact surface!There is a huge difference between applying a vibration to a tool and using a system, tool and tool head DESIGNED to work at the desired frequency!Otherwise we wouldn't need a computer to design and test a horn for welding purposes or shade a knife spefically so that the vibration go along the right axis and in the right direction.You not break a hard thing with a very soft thing unless it travels fast enough to become harder as the target!This complicated explanation basically just confirms that if you hit water at a too high speed then it will just break you into pieces instead of offering a soft splashPlease do not jump of bridges or such to confirm this yourself!!If that is really true and science says it is, then how about the other way around?Works fine too, or we wouldn't have pressure washers or water cutters.Now for the part where I hope some really smart people leave helpful comments:If we can cut steel with just a stream of water, then I ask:Isn't for example copper much harder than water?Steel is much harder than copper but water cuts through it.The answer here it simple or complicated, depending on how you want to expain how it works.Comes down to speed and pressure plus the right nozzle shape to prevent a beam expansion.But then water is indeed "harder than steel".Questions:Lets say we would use a copper pipe that in lenght, thickness, hardness and diameter is optimised to transmit a frequency so the pipe end sees the max vibration like a feed horn for ultrasonic welding.Not to hard to calculate these days :)Now imagine said "main frequency" would be optimised for the pipe but also be a harmonic frequency of the rock to be worked on.The pipe end would deform quickly, abrasion does the rest and it fails before even making a decent sratch that is not copper metal on granite.No matter how hard we press nothing good enough will ever happen.BUT: If we would add more hormainc frequencies to feed our pipe we can multiply the amplitude quite easy!Just try with a sound generator from your app store, needs 2 or more channels to be usable.Pick for example 400hZ on one and 800Hz on another, then finetune around these number to hear how the tone changes ;)My theory goes like this:If all "working frequencies" would just harmonics of the resonant frequency of the granite, then they can be tuned so the effect on the pipe end is minimised.The overlaying frequencies however should result in the same effect a water cutter has: The pipe becomes ultra hard.The better the match and the more you have to get it right the harder the pipe will be.Adding now a "drilling frequency" or multiple could be used to drive these harmonics slightly out of phase.Like with the sound generator on your phone we end up with a pulsating sound, or vibration.While the pipe still vibrates at the same "hardening" mix the drilling frequency creates a peak like a jackhammer.Try it by using the heaphone output on a small speaker and placing some light and tiny things into the cone.The will violently jump around during these pulsing tones.For a drilling system the output can be mechanically maximised by utilising a pitchfork design.A head holds the vibration speakers and the tynes are tuned good enough to the frequency of the speakers.Always two would have to operate in sync though as otherwise the pitchfork movement that transfers the sound down the center bar won't work.This head could then be desgined to act as a holder for a quick change of work out pipes that are no longer long enough for tuning.I guesstimate that a well tuned design would result in a copper pipe being able to drill at least 10 to 15cm into solid granite before it wears off too much.And we are talking here about just a few mm to get the thing out of tune!But would dare to desing such a thing just to confirm a theory that no one ever really dared to test? ;)And if friction welding works as good as ultrasonic welding, then what would happen if we try this with the right frequencies and vibrations instead of wasting tons of energy?

Topic by Downunder35m 


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

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